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Home , Compass (architecture), Groove (joinery), Jigsaw (tool), Jig (tool), Lap joint, Tapering jig

JIGS

1" plastic knob Four-arm knob with ¼" insert ¼" at washer ¾ x 2 x ½" ¼" at washer HOLD-DOWN ¼" nylon nut PIVOT BLOCK ½" ⁄" slot 3 techniques ¾ x 1½ x 3" ¼ x 1" brass roundhead ¼" ¼ x ⁄ x 3" machine screw, ¼" groove nut, and washer ⁄" deep, guide bar ⁄" deep, centered centered ¼" holes 34⁄" ¼ x ⁄ x 3½" ¼" 20⁄" ⁄" 11⁄" GUIDE BAR ¼ x 3" 7⁄" ¼" slots panhead ¼" deep, for fast and machine screw 12" centered over ⁄" dadoes ¼ x 3" panhead ⁄" machine screw ¾" 7⁄" accurate tapers ¼ x 12 x 36" 11⁄" ⁄" dadoes 20⁄" ⁄" deep BASE With these three jigs, you can rip tapers on ¾ x 12 x 36" plywood anything from a footstool leg to a tall bedpost. 34⁄"

hen it’s time to taper furniture legs, an adjustable To cut accurate tapers, first make sure your tablesaw , such as the one shown right, will handle 90 parallels the and the blade aligns 90° to the table. A Wpercent of those jobs. But for very short or long legs, 24-tooth rip blade helps prevent burn marks. Also, joint and you need a more suitable-size jig. The jig on the next page all four faces of your so they’ll index handles long parts; for short parts, build the jig on page 13. accurately on the jigs. Ready? Let’s tackle that 90 percent first.

3½" 1. Adjustable ⁄" ⁄" deep ⁄" handles most furniture jobs ¼" This adjustable tapering jig [Drawing 1] To taper two adjoining faces of a 2½" ⁄" holds table or cabinet legs shorter than leg blank, first mark the tapers on the ¼" hole 2" ¾" 34" and up to about 21⁄4" thick. Build the sides of the leg [Photos A and B, next page]. base by cutting grooves in 3⁄4" ply- Capture the base between the blade and ⁄" slot and gluing 1⁄4" hardboard to the rip fence, and adjust the fence out just a ⁄" top to form slots. Make the two movable hair to prevent the jig from touching the ¼" groove ¼" washer, hold-downs and the pivot block from saw blade. Then set the blade higher ¼ x ⁄ x 3½" ⁄" deep, led to allow hardwood and plywood. (To find the jig than the combined thickness of the jig GUIDE BAR centered nut to engage the rabbet hardware, see Sources, on page 13.) base and the leg blank. 1a pivot block detail 1" plastic knob Four-arm knob 1 with ¼" insert ¼" at washer adjustable ¾ x 2 x ½" tapering Jig hardwood ¼" at washer HOLD-DOWN Clamp Updated 1/09 ¼" nylon nut PIVOT BLOCK ½" WD325120.ai⁄" slot ¾ x 1½ x 3" plywood ¼ x 1" brass roundhead ¼" groove ¼ x ⁄ x 3" machine screw, 3a PIVOT BLOCK ¼" groove nut, and washer ⁄" deep, guide bar ⁄" deep, centered centered ¼" holes 34⁄" ¼ x ⁄ x 3½" ¼" 20⁄" ⁄" 11⁄" FILENAME:151TablesawJig2.epsGUIDE BAR ¼ x 3" 7⁄" ¼" slots panhead Date: 6-03 12" Lorna J .¼" deep, machine screw centered over ⁄" dadoes ¼ x 3" panhead ⁄" machine screw ¾" 7⁄" 11⁄" ¼ x 12 x 36" hardboard ⁄" dadoes 20⁄" BASE ⁄" deep ¾ x 12 x 36" plywood 34⁄"

10 Best-Ever Workshop Jigs & Organizers 2013

3½" ⁄" rabbet ⁄" deep ⁄" ¼"

2½" ⁄" ¼" hole 2" ¾"

⁄" slot ⁄"

¼" groove ¼" washer, ¼ x ⁄ x 3½" ⁄" deep, led to allow GUIDE BAR centered nut to engage the rabbet

Updated 1/09 WD325120.ai 3a PIVOT BLOCK

FILENAME:151TablesawJig2.eps Date: 6-03 Lorna J . plan your sequence of tapering cuts to keep a flat edge against the jig Right Wrong

Marked material Marked material will be cut away will be cut away

A B Positioning the as shown above ensures a flat face will rest on the C utting the first of two tapers on the leg edge shown above would place a base and against the hold-downs for the second tapering cut. tapered edge against the jig base for the second cut.

H old-Down = consistency the jig ensures a clean cut Pivot allows 4-sided tapers

Taper ends Hold-down here. block

Pivot screw

Leg center hole Align workpiece end flush with jig. C D E pivot block T he hold-down block helps position the workpiece T he top surface of the jig acts as a backer board T o set the pivot-screw height, raise or lower the detail on the jig while the clamp holds it for cutting. Align to reduce splintering as you cut tapers. This setup screw until it can be inserted into the leg center the top of each workpiece with the end of the jig to allows you to taper two adjoining sides of the hole with the leg blank flat on the jig. Then tighten maintain consistent taper lengths. workpiece by rotating the piece for the second cut. the pivot screw in position.

Lay the blank on the jig, aligning the longer have square faces to work from. taper marks with the edge of the jig clos- Start by laying out the tapers on the four 2. Make a big jig to est to the blade [Photos A and B]. Make leg faces. Then draw diagonal lines the nontapered end of the workpiece between the corners on the bottom of taper long posts flush with the trailing end of the jig the leg to mark the center. At the center, You could lengthen the adjustable jig to [Photo C]. Slide the hold-down blocks a 1⁄4" hole 1⁄2" deep. Place the pivot hold almost any size workpiece—even against the workpiece as stops, and block into a slot at one end of the jig 6'- or 7'-long posts for a canopy bed. tighten the nylon nuts. Then secure the [Photo E], and position the pivotblock But you’d seldom need that capacity. blank to the jig with the clamps. screw to align with the centered hole. Besides, the jig would be cumbersome Start the saw, and slide the jig tightly Align the taper line with the edge of to use for smaller parts, and difficult against the fence as you cut the first the jig, and secure the workpiece with to store. You’re better off tailoring a jig taper [Photo D]. Then rotate the work- the hold-down blocks and clamps. After specifically to taper large blanks. piece 90°, and make the second cut. cutting the first taper, rotate the work- For these special cases, build the jig, To taper all four sides of a leg, you piece 90°, and reinsert the pivot-block following the instructions and Drawing must reference from the center of the screw. Make the second cut, and repeat 2 on the next page. Tailor the length of workpiece because after two cuts, you no for the remaining two tapers. the fence guide to meet your needs.

woodmagazine.com 11 JIGS

Building the jig attach a saddle that captures your table- below. Mark the pivot- or screw Start by and a 2×6 saw fence [Drawing 2]. height on each bracket at a dis- that’s about 16" longer than your work- Some posts have two tapers—short tance above the saw table that’s half piece to 11⁄4×5". (We’ve sized the jig ones at their feet and long ones at the thickness of the workpiece (13⁄8" for a shown for 80"-long bedposts.) From their tops. If your posts follow this form, 23⁄4" square post). hardwood or 3⁄4" plywood, make and you must make separate brackets for The front-pivot dowel should position the short and long tapers. You’ll need a the workpiece to provide 1" of clearance third, front-pivot bracket, too. from the fence guide. Mount the front- 3 6" From ⁄4" plywood, cut, glue, and screw pivot bracket flush with the bottom edge 2½" together the three brackets, as shown of the fence guide, and place the jig on A N your tablesaw. Provide infeed and out- ½" hole feed support as necessary for the long, B O 80" heavy jig to ensure accuracy and safety. 1⁄" 96" C P

D Q 4" Size to t 2⁄" tablesaw fence. E R ¾" FENCE GUIDE 10" ½" dowel S FRONT-PIVOT F BRACKET 1¼" long 2¾" G T 3" #8 x 1½" F.H. 8" 5" 1⁄" 2¾" wood screw H U 2 super-size tapering jig 1¼" 4" 2¾" V I 1⁄" 1⁄" #8 x1½" F.H. W wood screws J ⁄" LONG-TAPER X BRACKET K SHORT-TAPER BRACKET Y L posts pivot on a dowel brackets position posts C utting short tapers Z M Fence Post guide Saddle Front- pivot bracket Post Short-taper bracket Fence guide

F G H T o save time, use a dowel instead of a screw to Mount the appropriate bracket (short-taper shown) W hen cutting short tapers, the square portion of pivot the front of the workpiece. Both the short to the tapering-jig fence guide so the longest the post rests flat on the saw table. The post shown and long brackets on the opposite end keep the bracket leg fits tightly against the workpiece end. FILENAME:187LgTprJig_#100.eps Filename:was 187mortised Large and drilled taper as necessary jig before post from pulling free. The pivot screw holds the post in place. tapering, while the faces are still square. Date: 5-08 R LeMoine Lorna J. Make brackets to fit tapers Cutting short tapers 5-22-08 Move the fence to align the cutting line To tailor short- or long-taper brackets for Attach the short-taper bracket to the with the blade, and add infeed and out- the workpiece tapers you want, first fence guide, and then screw the post to feed support. Cut the first taper [Photo J], mark taper lines on your workpiece. the bracket [Photo G]. To help control the and rotate the workpiece 90°, keeping an Drill a 1⁄2" hole centered in one end of jig, position infeed and outfeed supports untapered edge against the saw table for the workpiece; then place the front-pivot in front and back of your tablesaw. the next cut. Repeat for one more cut. bracket dowel in that hole [Photo F]. Cut the first taper [Photo H]. Then For the final taper, you no longer have a Position the other workpiece end so remove the screw, rotate the workpiece flat post face to ride on the saw table. The the marked taper line parallels the fence 90°, and reinsert the pivot screw. Make workpiece can turn between the centers guide. Measure from the center of the the second taper, followed by two more. without a square section resting on the workpiece end to the fence guide. Then saw table, so double-faced-tape a cutoff drill through the bracket for the pivot Cutting long tapers wedge to the underside of the workpiece to screw at that distance from the fence, To cut long tapers, install the long-taper provide a flat surface flush with the bot- and screw the bracket to the fence guide bracket. Screw the foot end of the post to tom edge of the jig [Photo K]. Remount the to provide a snug fit for the workpiece. the bracket [Photo I, next page]. jig on your fence, and cut the final taper.

12 Best-Ever Workshop Jigs & Organizers 2013 install a long-taper bracket S upport jig to prevent trouble stabilize the workpiece

Fence guide

Long-taper Outfeed table bracket

I J K T he post rides close to the fence guide when B ecause of the length of the jig and parts, good B efore cutting the final taper, attach one of the cutting long tapers, so the long-taper bracket has infeed and outfeed supports are critical when cutting cutoff wedges to the workpiece with double-faced a short arm. When a post has both short and long the long tapers. We used a for infeed tape. Place the wedge with one edge against the tapers, cut the short tapers first. This allows you to support and a table for outfeed support to stabilize bottom jig edge. This prevents the workpiece from place the end even closer to the fence guide. the jig and workpiece when cutting long tapers. rotating as you complete the cut.

#8 x 1¼" F.H. 3. Taper small parts easily on a sled wood screw CLEAT HOLD–DOWNS ½ x 1½ x 3" ⁄ x 1⁄ x 2½"

FENCE 1½ x 1¼ x 8" 1¼" 6½"

⁄" SAW KERF

BASE

½" CLEAT ½ x 1½ x 3" 12" 11° REAR EDGE 10" Build this simple sled for a fast, accu- at the rear. Leave your fence in place rate, and safe way to achieve perfect for the next cut. tapers, even when cutting small or Lay out the taper on your work- thin parts for your project. piece, then place it where the kerf First, cut a hardwood fence the aligns with the waste side of your same thickness and length as your taper line. Trace around your work- workpiece, and two 1⁄2"-thick cleats for piece on the base to mark locations the front and back to contain the for the fence and cleats. Glue the workpiece. Next, cut the sled’s base. It fence and both cleats in place along must be large enough so at least 2" of the outline, where shown. Produced by Bob Wilson with Hedlund the base remains uncovered on either To cut a taper, nestle the workpiece Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson side of the workpiece. Set your table- against the jig’s fence and between saw fence to leave enough of the base the two cleats on either end, and Sources on both sides of the saw kerf to sup- secure it there with hold-downs using Hold-down. Kreg Trak Clamp with bolt and knob, 1 #145831, $6, Woodcraft, 800-225-1153 or woodcraft.com. port your workpiece. Cut through the #8×1 ⁄4" wood screws. Then make 1 Four-arm knob. With through hole and ⁄4"-20 insert, base, leaving a minimum of 2" uncut your tapered cut as shown above. #142230, $2.50, Woodcraft. woodmagazine.com 13

Filename: 209 Veneer Jig FILENAME:209QEjig1_#100.ai Date: 9-11 KB 7-18, Lorna J. JIGS

Tablesaw pattern jig Attach this jig to your tablesaw’s fence to easily duplicate parts.

tapering jig works great when you have a few parts to make. But when a project calls for a number of matching 2⁄" or to match fence Aparts with tapered edges (or when you may want to make more matching parts later), cut them quickly and accurately with this simple tablesaw jig. Begin by making a plywood pattern to match each piece that requires tapered cuts. Then, fasten the pattern to the stock with double-faced tape or screws. With a little planning, you may be 2" able to position the pattern screws exactly where you’ll later Fence make screw holes in the finished piece, meaning you won’t have Jig Pattern to fix any extra holes required by the pattern. Now, make a pattern-cutting jig by screwing together two ⁄" Stock pieces of plywood, as shown in the Drawing. Clamp the jig to your tablesaw’s rip fence, and position the jig edge just a scant 1⁄32" Tablesaw beyond the edge of the blade to allow for sanding the cut edge. Waste With everything secured, just slide each pattern/stock assem- bly along the fence to duplicate the parts, reusing the pattern as needed to complete the project.

14 Best-Ever Workshop Jigs & Organizers 2013

100204409_#100204409.ai Date: 3/09

FILENAME:161TablesawJig.eps Date: 8-04 Lorna J. Tablesaw thin-strip ripping jig

Here’s a safety-minded jig that will make you feel more comfortable ripping tiny pieces.

ometimes you need to rip several thin strips of wood to equal thick- Sness to serve as edging, veneer, or bending stock. Slicing off thin stock on the fence side of the blade, however, could prove unsafe. That’s because it becomes awkward to use your blade guard and pushstick when you cut close to the fence. The solution: Run the wide portion of your workpiece between the fence and blade, cutting the strips on the side of the blade opposite the First, build the jig fence. You could accomplish this by Cut 3⁄4" plywood to the size shown cut. Drive a brass screw halfway into the measuring for each cut, but that’s 1for the base in the Drawing on the wood. (We used brass to avoid any tedious and imprecise. This thin- next page. Cut a on the bottom chance of damaging a tablesaw blade.) strip ripping jig does the job safely, side of the base for the guide bar, where You’ll turn this screw in or out to fine- accurately, and quickly. shown. Now, cut the 3⁄4" dado on the tune your jig’s basic “zero” setting, or to top side of the base for the sliding bar. adjust it for a blade of different thickness Cut two pieces of to size for or with a different tooth set. S cribe a cursor 2the miter-slot guide bar (adjust the From the bottom side of the assem- size to fit your tablesaw’s slots, if neces- 5bly, drill and a 1⁄4" hole sary) and the sliding bar. Center the through the miter-slot guide bar and miter-slot guide bar in the bottom base for the machine screw that holds dado, and glue it in place. Drill a pair of the plastic knob. Sand all of the wood 5⁄16" holes in the sliding bar, where parts to 180 grit, and apply three coats shown, scrollsaw the material between of clear finish. them, and smooth the inside of the slot Make a mark 1" from the left end of with a . 6the sliding bar. Cut the first 11⁄2" Set the jig in your tablesaw’s left from an inexpensive steel rule, align its 3miter- slot. Place the sliding left end with the mark, and attach it bar in the dado with its left end flush with epoxy. Place the bar in the base. with the base. Slide the jig forward, and Cut a piece of 1⁄4" clear acrylic to the mark the point where a left-set blade 7dimen sions shown for the indica- tooth touches the bar. Make a second tor. Drill and countersink the two A mark 1⁄2" closer to the base. Remove the mounting holes, and scribe and mark a T o make a cursor, scribe a line across the acrylic indicator with a sharp knife and a square. Color bar, and crosscut it at the second mark. cursor line, as shown in Photo A. Attach the scribed line with a permanent marker. Wipe Drill a 7⁄64" pilot hole in the sliding the indicator to the base, and screw the off the excess ink with a cloth, leaving a fine line. 4 bar, centered on the end you just knob onto the machine screw. woodmagazine.com 15 1 STRIP-RIPPING JIG

JIGS

Four-arm knob with ¼" insert

exploded view #8 x 1" brass F.H. wood screw

¼" at washer ⁄" slot

#8 x ¾" F.H. wood screw

⁄" 1½" ⁄" shank hole, ½" INDICATOR countersunk on top 1" 1½" 2" 9" SLIDING BAR

Cursor line ¾" dado A N ⁄" deep 1½" section of steel rule B O ¼ x 1½" x 2" clear acrylic ¾" ¾" C P 2" D Q 6¾" E R ¾" S F ¾" dado ⁄" deep G T BASE

H U 3" V 4" I Now, cut some strips ⁄" pilot hole To cut a thin strip with the jig, place J W 4½" ½" deep its guide bar in the left-hand miter- X ½ x ¾" x 9" gauge slot on your tablesaw. Loosen the K Y knob, set the cursor to zero (the bottom L end of the rule), and retighten the Z ¼" hole, countersunk knob. Slide the jig so that the brass screw M on bottom side ½" head is beside the saw blade. Turn the screw in or out with a screwdriver until MITER-SLOT GUIDE BAR the head lightly contacts a left-leaning ¼-20 x 1½" F.H. tooth. Pull the jig toward you, loosen machine screw the knob, set the cursor for the desired strip thickness, and retighten the knob. Position your workpiece against the rip fence, and move the fence over to bring the left edge of the workpiece S et THE fence using THE jig re move THE jig to make A cut against the screw head, as shown in Photo B. Lock the fence, set the jig out of the way, and you’re ready to cut a strip, as shown in Photo C. After completing the cut, clean up the workpiece edge on the . FILENAME:151TablesawJig1.eps Replace the jig in the slot. Then Date: 6-03 Lorna J. unlock the rip fence, move it to bring the jointed edge against the screw head, lock the rip fence, remove the jig, and saw another strip. Repeat the process as many times as neces- sary to produce all of the strips that B C you need for your project. S ize your thin-strip ripping jig to suit your tablesaw, Remove the jig before making the cut so the so that a 1" screw in the guide bar can contact workpiece doesn’t bind between the rip fence and the blade. Install a zero-clearance throat plate to the screw head. Replace the jig in the slot without Written by Jim Pollock with Jeff Mertz and Kevin Boyle prevent the sawn strip from falling into the saw. making any adjustments to set up the next cut. Illustration: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson

16 Best-Ever Workshop Jigs & Organizers 2013 JIGS

Dead-on 90˚ Crosscut sled When you use this sled, your accuracy and efficiency at the tablesaw will soar.

reliable tablesaw miter gauge Build a real workhorse shop tip handles a lot of crosscutting Select a flat piece of 3⁄4" plywood, and A tasks, but not all. It rides in only 1cut the platform to the dimensions Enhance sled’s versatility one slot, and supports the workpiece shown on Drawing 1 on the next page. with a flip stop 1 on just one side of the blade, allowing Cut two ⁄2×3×30" maple pieces for the You can adapt the mitersaw/ for inaccuracy. This problem goes away, 2fence, and cut a 5⁄8" groove 3⁄16" deep in radial-arm saw flip stop shown on however, with an accurate crosscut the face of one piece, where shown on pages 8–9 to this crosscut sled for sled. Our design is both inexpensive Drawing 1a. Glue the two blanks together, even greater versatility. With this and simple to build. Plus, it includes a keeping the edges flush and the groove modification, you can set the stop to reliable, adjustable stop for repeatable the inside of the lamination. After cut multiple same-length parts, but cuts. From the moment you put this the glue dries, cut a 1⁄4" groove centered on then flip it out of the way to make sled to use at your tablesaw, you’ll the 5⁄8" groove. Then, cut a rabbet along the cuts to other lengths without having discover that making right-angle cuts front of the bottom edge and a 1⁄2" groove to remove and reset the stopblock. is easier and safer. centered along the top edge.

18 Best-Ever Workshop Jigs & Organizers 2013 #8 x ¾" F.H. screw TOP BLADE GUARD ⁄" shank hole, #8 x ¾" F.H. screw countersunk TOP BLADE GUARD ⁄" shank hole, countersunk #8 x ¾" F.H. screw 1 EXPLODED VIEW TOP BLADE GUARD ⁄" shank hole, countersunk

⁄" pilot hole ¾" 6⁄" ¼ x 3¼ x 22¾" ¾x ¾x 16¼" clear acrylic ⁄" pilot30" hole ¾" supports 6⁄" ¼ x 3¼ x 22¾" 2" ¾x ¾x 16¼" clear acrylic FRONT RAIL 30" supports ⁄" pilot hole ¾" 2" 7⁄" ¾ x 18 x 30" ¼ x 3¼ x 22¾" FRONT RAIL 6⁄" plywood ¾x ¾x 16¼"6⁄" clear acrylic 30" 1⁄" supports 7⁄" ¾ x 18 x 30" #8 x1½" F.H. screw 2" BLADE GUARD FRONT RAIL ¼x 1 x 1¾" 8 ⁄" plywood 6⁄" clear acrylic1⁄" ¾" 7⁄" #8 x1½" F.H. screw 3" ¼x 1 x 1¾" 8 ⁄" ¾ x 18 x 30" BLADE#8 GUARD x 1½" F.H. screw clear acrylic plywood 6⁄" #6 x 1" roundhead screw 1⁄" ¾" 3" ⁄" holes #8 x1½" F.H. screw #8 x 1½" F.H. screw BLADE GUARD ¼x 1 x 1¾" 8 ⁄"¼" long" hexhead bolt #6¼" xat 1" washerroundhead screw clear acrylic 1½" long ¾" ⁄" holes 3¾" 3" 3¾" #8 x 1½" F.H. screw ¼" at washer ¼" long" hexhead bolt #6 x 1" roundhead screw 1½" long Four-arm knob 3¾" ⁄" holes 3¾" Self-adhesive with ¼" insert ¼" long" hexheadFENCE bolt measuring rule ¼" at washer STOPBLOCK Four-arm knob 1½" long 4¾" 3¼" Self-adhesive 3¾" with ¼" insert FENCE 3¾" measuring rule STOPBLOCK 1 x 3 x 30" ⁄ x ¾ x 18" PLATFORM 4¾" 3¼" Four-arm knob miter-slot guide bars ¾ x 1¼ x 2 ⁄" Self-adhesive with ¼" insert FENCE1 x 3 x 30" measuring⁄ x ¾ rule x 18" PLATFORM STOPBLOCKstopblock ⁄ x ½ x 1¼" miter-slot guide bars 4¾" 3¼" ¾ x 1¼ x 2 ⁄" guide bar #8 x 1½" stopblock ⁄ x ½ x 1¼" 1 x 3 x 30" ⁄ x ¾ x 18" PLATFORM ⁄" dado ¼" deep #8 x ½" F.H. screw F.H. screw ⁄" from top edgeguide bar miter-slot guide bars #8 x 1½" ¾ x 1¼ x 2 ⁄" ⁄" stopblockdado ¼" deep #8 x ½" F.H. screw F.H. screw ⁄" from top edge ⁄ x ½ x 1¼" guide bar #8 x 1½" ⁄" dado ¼" deep #8 x ½" F.H. screw F.H. screw ⁄" from top edge

1¾" 1a FENCE SECTION½" groove VIEW ⁄" deep 1b INDICATOR DETAIL (to t measuring rule) ⁄" ⁄ x ½" slot 1¾" ½" groove ⁄" deep 1" (to t measuring rule) ⁄" ½" ⁄ x ½" slot ⁄" ⁄" 1¾" ½" groove ⁄" deep ½" 1" (to t measuring ⁄"rule) ⁄" ⁄ x ½" slot ⁄" ⁄" ⁄" ⁄" ½"Score a line on the acrylic with a knife,1" ¼" groove and⁄" color it with a permanent marker. ⁄" deep ⁄" ⁄" ⁄" groove ⁄" deep Score a line on the acrylic with a knife, ¼" groove ⁄" and color it with a permanent marker. ⁄" ⁄" deep rabbet ⁄" groove ⁄" ⁄" deep ⁄" deep Score a line on the acrylic with a knife, ⁄" rabbet¼" groove ½" and color it with a permanent marker. ⁄" deep⁄" deep ⁄" groove ½" ⁄" deep ⁄" rabbet ⁄" deep FILENAME:151T ablesa wJig3.eps ½" Date: 6-03 Lornawoodmagazine.com J . 19 FILENAME:151T ablesa wJig3.eps Date: 6-03 Lorna J . FILENAME:151T ablesa wJig3.eps Date: 6-03 Lorna J . JIGS

From 3⁄4" maple, cut the blade-guard sides and end [Draw- 3 ing 1]. Glue and screw the end to the sides. Now, screw the blade guard to the fence, where shown. Cut the front rail to size from 3⁄4" maple. Use a or 4 to cut a notch, where shown, for the blade to pass through. Attach the front rail and the fence to the platform with screws. Cut, sand, and finish two top blade-guard supports. 5Using a fine-toothed tablesaw blade, cut a piece of 1⁄4" clear acrylic to size for the blade-guard cover. Attach the A cover to the supports and the front rail. Two pennies shim the miter-slot guide bars slightly proud of the tablesaw From 3⁄4" maple stock, cut two strips to serve as miter-slot surface. Place a couple of these stacks in each miter-gauge slot, and set the 6guide bars. Set your tablesaw rip fence 81⁄8" to the right of bars on top, taped-side up. the blade, and lower the blade below the table’s surface. (Note: Make sure your fence is parallel to the miter-gauge slot before proceeding.) Apply double-faced tape to the top of each guide bar, and attach the bars to the platform, as shown in Photos A and B. Remove the assembly from the saw, and permanently attach the bars with screws. Cut a piece for the stopblock, and cut a dado in the back, 7where shown [Drawing 1]. Cut a guide bar, and glue it into the dado. Drill a shank hole through the block and bar, where shown. Now, cut a piece of 1⁄4" acrylic plastic to size for the stopblock indicator [Drawing 1b]. Drill and saw the slot where shown and file it smooth. Make a cursor line, as shown in Photo A on page 15. Remove the top blade guard, sand the jig, and apply 8three coats of finish. Reattach the blade guard, assemble and install the stopblock, place the crosscut sled on your tablesaw, and make a cut from the front edge through the fence, stopping short of the blade guard. Use a rule to set the B stopblock 4" from the kerf. Mark the center of the stopblock Keeping the right end of the platform against the rip fence, set the sled on its top end, align the 4" line on the self-adhesive measur- assembly on the guides. Press down firmly to stick the bars to the platform. ing tape with that mark, and attach the tape in the fence groove. Use tin snips to cut off the portion of the tape extending beyond the left end of the fence. Place the indica- tor on the stopblock, align the cursor with the tape’s 4" line, and attach the indicator to the block with a screw. Now, let’s go sledding If a workpiece fits between the fence and the front rail, you can cut it on your crosscut sled, as shown in Photo C. Use the stopblock to cut multiple pieces to the same length, provided that length falls within the stopblock’s range. Remove the stopblock when cutting pieces that extend beyond that range. When you install a blade of a different thickness or with a different tooth set than the one used to calibrate your stopblock, check the setting with a rule, and adjust the cursor. Sources 1¼" four-arm plastic knob, no. 142230, $2.50. C Self-adhesive rule, no. 145832, $9.50. Hold the workpiece firmly against the fence as you make a cut. Keep your Woodcraft, 800-225-1153, woodcraft.com. hands outside the blade guard, and don’t cut through its end.

20 Best-Ever Workshop Jigs & Organizers 2013 JIGS

¼" four-arm knob 24"

ALIGNMENT ¼" hexhead bolt TRIANGLE 1½" long

1" 25" 24" T-track 3" 45° mitered end MITER FENCE ¼" at ¾" grooves washer ⁄" deep, centered 1½ x 3 x 6" BLADE-GUARD BLOCK ¼" carriage bolt 1 x 3 x 4½" 1½" long STOPBLOCK 2" ¼" hole with a ¾" ¼" deep on 45° SLED BASE bottom face Precision ¼" hole, 18" 45° mitered countersunk ends on bottom face 24" Miter-slot runner #8 x 1½" (size and position miters every time F.H. screw to t tablesaw)

Build this sled in one evening and rely on it for A sled helps you cut tighter miters perfect mitered corners A dedicated tablesaw miter sled gives hardware—far less than a mitersaw or you two big advantages over miter an aftermarket miter gauge. Second, for years to come. gauges and mitersaws. First is price. after the initial alignment, you’ll get ¼" slot ¾" long You can build this sled from a quarter- consistent results with a miter sled (position to avoid ou’ll turn to this miter sled like a sheet of Baltic birch plywood, scrap without spendingSTOPBLOCK additional time on miter-slot runners) trusted friend whenever you need hardwood and MDF, and $35 in setups and test cuts. 17" 90° Ygap-free corners. To make miter- ing a cinch, even on long pieces, T-tracks hold a stopblock anywhere along the stopblock 2" 25"-long fences. A hardwood block ¼" four-arm ¼" hole 4½" 45° mitered 5" behind the fences shrouds the blade E xPLODED view knob end 24" while channeling downward 24" into the saw. 3" ALIGNMENT ALIGNMENT Before you build this sled, consult the ¼" hexhead bolt TRIANGLE owner’s manual to tune up your saw. 1½" long TRIANGLE (See page 24 for more articles and a video ⁄" 25" 24" T-track on saw setup.) 1" ⁄" deep 3" 45° mitered Build your super sled end MITER FENCE Filename: 198 Mitersled (2-9) Begin by cutting the sled base to size ¼" at ¾" grooves R LeMoine 12-18 from 3⁄4" Baltic birch plywood [Exploded washer ⁄" deep, centered 1½ x 3 x 6" View, right]. Cut two 18"-long hardwood BLADE-GUARD File: 198Mitersled_#100672644.ai RW 12-21 runners to fit your tablesaw miter slots BLOCK ¼" carriage bolt RW 12-22 RW 2-8, RL 2-9 1 x 3 x 4½" Date: 2/101½" long and two 1×3×25" hardwood miter fences. STOPBLOCK 2" Using a dado blade that matches the Lorna J. ¼" hole with a ¾" counterbore width of your T-track (see Sources), cen- ¼" deep on ter a groove in each miter fence deep 45° SLED BASE bottom face enough to recess the T-tracks flush with ¼" hole, 18" 45° mitered countersunk ends the fence faces. Cut T-tracks about 1" on bottom face 24" Miter-slot runner shorter than the fences and screw them #8 x 1½" (size and position in place with one end flush with the F.H. screw to t tablesaw) outside end of each fence.

22 Best-Ever Workshop Jigs & Organizers 2013

¼" slot ¾" long (position to avoid STOPBLOCK miter-slot runners) 17" 90°

2" ¼" hole 4½" 45° mitered 5" end 24"

3" ALIGNMENT TRIANGLE ⁄" rabbets ⁄" deep

Filename: 198 Mitersled (2-9) R LeMoine 12-18 File: 198Mitersled_#100672644.ai RW 12-21 Date: 2/10 RW 12-22 RW 2-8, RL 2-9 Lorna J. ¼" four-arm knob 24"

ALIGNMENT ¼" hexhead bolt TRIANGLE 1½" long

1" 25" 24" T-track 3" 45° mitered end MITER FENCE ¼" at ¾" grooves washer ⁄" deep, centered 1½ x 3 x 6" BLADE-GUARD BLOCK ¼" carriage bolt 1 x 3 x 4½" 1½" long STOPBLOCK 2" ¼" hole with a ¾" counterbore ¼" deep on 45° SLED BASE bottom face ¼" hole, 18" 45° mitered countersunk ends on bottom face 24" Miter-slot runner #8 x 1½" (size and position F.H. screw to t tablesaw)

alignment triangle

¼" slot ¾" long (position to avoid STOPBLOCK miter-slot runners) 17" 90°

2" ¼" hole 4½" 45° mitered 5" end 24" Sled base 3" Install a saw blade, lower it completely, and adjust ALIGNMENTthe rip fence to center the sled base aboveTRIANGLE the blade. Quick Tip: Make your “runner” buddies Miter-slot ⁄" rabbets runners Double-faced ⁄" deep proud. Drop two pennies in each miter tape slot and lay the miter-slot runners on top A of them so the runners stand just proud of Filename: 198 Mitersled Attach(2-9) double-faced tape to the miter-slot runners and align them with the front edge of the saw table. the saw table. Press one edge of the sled base against the rip fence as you tilt the sled down against the table and press it Next, attach the Rsled LeMoine base to 12-18 the run- against the miter-slot runners. File: 198Mitersled_#100672644.ai ners [Photo A] byRW pressing 12-21 the base Date: 2/10 against the tape. SlideRW 12-22 the base RW off2-8, the RL 2-9 saw, and flip it over to countersink, drill, Lorna J. and screw the runners to the sled base. Now, drill two 1⁄4" holes 2" from the back edge of the sled base, without drill- ing the miter-slot runners. Counterbore the holes on the underside of the base to accept a 1⁄4×11⁄2" carriage-bolt head. From 3⁄4" MDF or an MDF-core sheet, Alignment cut a 17" square and use a reliable square triangle to check for a precise 90° corner. Using a bandsaw or jigsaw, cut the square in half diagonally. Center and clamp one trian- gle onto the sled base while keeping the long edge flush with the back edge of the sled base. Turn the base and triangle upside down and transfer the 1⁄4" hole locations to the triangle. Remove the triangle and lay out two 3⁄4"-long slots perpendicular to the long edge and cen- B tered on the hole locations. Drill pairs Press your against the edge of the sled base and move the alignment triangle up 1 or down until the edge rests tightly against the square. Do the same on the other side. Then secure the of ⁄4" holes to define the slot ends and alignment triangle in place by tightening the knobs. cut away the waste between the holes. Now loosely bolt the alignment trian- gle onto the sled base with its point ready to attach the two miter fences. Use and assemble them into a frame. Once centered. Using the 45° angle on a the sled to miter the fence ends where you achieve gap-free miters, drill and combination square, align the triangle the T-track stops short. Apply double- screw the miter fences to the sled base. on the sled base [Photo B]. faced tape to the bottom edges [Photo C]. To make the blade-guard block, lami- Next, use the triangle and sled to miter Press one fence against the edge of the nate two pieces of 3⁄4×3×6" hardwood one end of a test scrap until it fits the 45° alignment triangle with the mitered tip and allow to dry. Use your tablesaw with angle on your square with no gaps. Then, just over the kerf in the sled base, and the blade tilted 45° to both faces at make test cuts in four pieces of scrap and press the fence in place. Repeat for the one end, a point at the center. check that they go together without gaps, other miter fence. The first cut you make Then, glue and clamp this blade-guard as shown in How to tell if you’ve cornered with the jig will trim the fence miters to block to the sled base behind the fences the market on accuracy on page 24. create a zero-clearance backer. [Exploded View]. Finally, cut a stopblock After your sled cuts airtight miters To test the accuracy of the miter to size as shown on the previous page and using the alignment triangle, you’re fences, again miter the four test scraps drill it for a 1⁄4" hexhead bolt.

woodmagazine.com 23 JIGS

How to tell if you’ve cornered the market on accuracy a stopblock to the sled base against the alignment triangle and a hair less than 9" from the center kerf. Flip each test piece end for end and cut the second miters. Tape three mitered corners tightly together and examine the fourth joint. If it looks like the one far left, rotate the alignment triangle counterclockwise a Check blade tilt little bit. If the fourth joint resembles the corner middle left, gently rotate the alignment triangle clockwise. To test the position of the alignment Here’s how to go about it: Although you’ll If you end up with an even gap on all triangle, cut a test frame with four equal normally cut from both sides of your miter four corners, like the one near left, blame sides of ¾×3×12" MDF. Those eight miter sled when it’s finished, make these test cuts the saw-blade tilt. Check the blade with cuts multiply the slightest misalignments only from the left side. First, miter one end of a reliable square or drafting triangle to enough to find and fix them. each piece. Use double-faced tape to adhere make sure it stands 90° to the saw table.

Issue 198, Miters RW 2-10 Cut corners for a frame To make a frame, first cut blanks for both pairs of frame sides. Using the right fence of your jig, miter one end of each Issue 198, Miters frame part, as shown on page 22. RW 2-10 For four sides of equal length, set your stopblock on the left miter fence and cut Alignment the opposite end of all four parts. To triangle make sides of unequal length, cut the longest sides first so you’ll still have a Miter-slot usable blank for the short sides in case runner you make a mistake. Then, reset your stopblock and cut the short sides. To miter extra-long parts, first glue a beveled block to a strip of plywood or MDF cut to the length you need to accommodate your frame parts. Then, C clamp the extension to a sled fence Double-faced tape holds the miter fences in position while you check their alignment by cutting test pieces to make a frame. The tip of each fence overlaps slightly less than half of the saw kerf in the sled [Photo D] and miter the opposite ends of base, with the T-track recessed 1" from the end. your frame parts.

Stopblock T aables w tuneup extension Voide ■ “Tune Up Your Tablesaw”, 61⁄2 minutes, free at woodmagazine.com/tstuneup articles ■ “Tune Up Your Tablesaw” issue 152 (November 2003) $ 45° miter ■ “Miter Gauges & Sleds” issue 179 (October 2007) $ ($=Download from woodmagazine.com for a small fee. ) Type “tune up” or “miter gauge” in the Search box.

Sources T-track: 4' aluminum track no. 20054, $26, Rockler, D 800-279-4441, rockler.com. For workpieces longer than your miter fences, cut them to identical lengths using a stopblock Knobs: Four-arm knob with a ¼"-20-thread insert (2) no. extension. Make the stopblock 2" thick so that the mitered end of your workpiece can touch the 142230, $2.50, Woodcraft, 800-225-1153, woodcraft.com. mitered end of the stopblock.

24 Best-Ever Workshop Jigs & Organizers 2013 STOP DETAIL ¼ x 2" F.H. machine screw ⁄ " hole (Drill before cutting slot.) ¼" shoptips 68, 69, 70 & 71 ⁄" slot 1¼" long

⁄ " Four simple jigs increase speed and accuracy¾" ¼" hole ● Make cleaner crosscuts. A zero-clearance crosscut sled, when paired with a quality blade, virtually eliminates tear-out in veneered plywood, guarantees a square cut, and costs just pennies to make. We spiffed up the sled¼" ˆat shown washer at right with an adjustable stop, but that’s just the icing on the cake. This fence-forward¼" lock nut design allows you to cut wider workpieces than one with the fence closer to the operator. During assembly, locate the miter bar so that about 1⁄4" of the fence will STOP DETAIL overhang the blade. Before you use the base and sled, run it through the blade to remove ¼ x 2" F.H. this excess and create a zero-clearance edge. machine screw ⁄ " hole (Drill before cutting slot.) PANEL-CUTTING SLED ¼" ⁄" slot 1¼" long ¼”x 2 ½" R.H. machine screw with head cut o– Epoxy wing nut ⁄ " to machine screw. ¾" ¾”x 1½ x 3" stop ¼" hole ¼”x 2" F.H. ● Taper with confidence. You can machine screw buy or build more elaborate tapering ¼" threaded insert ¼" ˆat washer jigs, but this simple helper below will ¼" lock nut ⁄ " rod 24" long handle most of your tapering chores. It runs in the saw’s miter-gauge slot. 27" To use the jig, measure the width of ¼" lock nut ¼" ˆat washer the sled and set your fence that 2" 1½" distance from the blade. Remove the 2¼" top screw, loosen the pivot screw, 12" 1" hole (for hanging) ¼" round-overs rotate the fence to match your desired taper, and then tighten both screws. Butt your workpiece against the PANEL-CUTTING SLED 27" dowel with one edge against the jig’s ¼”x 2 ½" R.H. machine fence, and then cut your taper. ½ x 18 x 27" plywood Epoxy wing nut screw with head cut o– ⁄ " groove to machine screw. ⁄ x ¾* x 18" stock ⁄ " deep ¾”x 1½ x 3" stop 18" ¼”x 2" F.H. Top screw Miter- * Or themachine width screw of the gauge miter-gauge¼" threaded slot, insertif not ¾" Distance from blade slot to miter-gauge slot ⁄ " rod 24" long #8 x ¾" F.H. wood screw 27" ● Miter¼" lock better nut with a dedicated sled. For perfect miter joints, it’s more ¼" ˆat washer important that both2" miter cuts add up1½" to precisely 90° than each miter is exactly 45°. This blade-straddling miter-cutting sled2¼" ensures that those complementary 1⁄2" plywood 12" 1" hole cuts always equal a right angle. To install the miter-slot¼" round-overs guides on the bottom of the sled, place the guides(for inhanging) your saw’s slots, set the sled on top of them, and then drive screws into the guides through the top of the sled. Now cut a blade kerf about halfway across the27" sled. Using a combination square,Old mark the location of the right-hand fence 45° to that kerf, and install the fence114Pl y21.fh7_#100504282.epson that line. Place a Date: 3/10 ½ x 18reliable x 27" plywood square against that fence ⁄ " groove to locate the left fence, GIFY#8 x 1" F.H. wood screw ⁄ x ¾* x 18" stock 45° miter ⁄ " deep FILENAME:174TblTrick2._#100504461.epsrest the left fence against Filename:18" 114PLYJIG Date: 9-06 the square, and then R LeMoine Lorna J . 9-17 * Or thescrew width it ofinto the place. Make 14" #8 x 1" brass miter-gaugetest cuts, slot, and if not if needed,¾" Distance from blade F.H. wood screw to miter-gauge slot remove the fence screw 45° miter 1’⁄‘" #8 x ¾" F.H. wood screw 3⁄4" dowel farthest from the Œ⁄‘" kerf š⁄›œ" shank hole, kerf, adjust the countersunk Pivot screw fence’s angle, 1" 7½" and drive a new 18¼" Miter-slot screw to secure it. 12½" guide ’⁄‘" MITERING SLED ½" plywood ¡⁄¢£" pilot hole Old 17½" 114Pl y21.fh7_#100504282.eps Date: 3/10 ¾" continued on page 90 GIFY FILENAME:174TblTrick2._#100504461.eps Filename: 114PLYJIG Date: 9-06 woodmagazine.com R LeMoine 89 Lorna J . 9-17

OLD

DRA WING NO

Date: 3/10 FILENAME: JIGS 2.fh 3 R.LEMOINE FILENAME: 6-8 174TblTrick3_#100504462.eps L.Johnson Date: 9/06 7/95 fh3_#WD313852.eps LornaJ. 9/06 Adjustable Miter-gauge Extension With shop scraps, a bit, and a pair of bolts, you’ll have this shop helper up and running in minutes.

FORM THE T-SLOTS IN TWO EASY STEPS f you’re like the craftsmen in the ® 1Step Cut rough grooves. WOOD magazine shop, you usually 1Step Cut rough grooves. Step 2 Rout four slots. Step 2 Rout four slots. have a wood extension attached to I Groove centered on Groove centered on Cut T-slot in two passes. your tablesaw miter miter-gaugegauge. An holes exten- miter-gauge holes Cut T-slot in two passes. sion adds control when crosscutting Keyhole Keyhole and also backs up cuts to preventExtension grain Extension bit bit stock stock ⁄" tear-out. Sometimes you’ll clamp a ⁄" stopblock to it for accurate repeat cuts or to control the length of a tenon or ⁄" ⁄" ½" ½" . While most scrap extensions are screwed to the miter gauge in only one position, here’s how to¼" make an ¼" infinitely adjustable one with router- ⁄" Router table Tablesaw Tablesaw ⁄" Router table cut T-slots and a pair of 1⁄4" toilet-flange bolts. (Find these bolts in the plumb- ing department of hardware stores or Enlarge the holes in your miter gauge bolts, and slide it off. Flip the extension home centers.) The extension is so easy to 17⁄64", and fasten the extension to the end-for-end, slide it back over the bolts, to make, we suggest you build several miter gauge, as shown below. and tighten the nuts. Then bring the at a time so you won’t hesitate to throw When one end of the extension gets uncut end of the extension into play, as one away when it’s used up. chewed up by repeated cuts, loosen the shown below. The position of the attachment holes in your miter gauge determines the EASY-TO-FIND T-SLOT BOLTS TWO ENDS DOUBLE THE LIFE width of the extension. For a miter gauge with holes close to the bottom, a 3"-wide extension will accommodate Fresh end two T-slots. (The model shown in the photos has holes 7⁄8" from the bottom.) For a miter gauge with holes higher up, measure from the bottom of the gauge to the center of the holes, and double this Updateddimension 12/08 to determine theUpdated width 12/08 100204417_#100204417.ai of an extension with a single, centered100204417_#100204417.ai T-slot. An extension of 18–24" is a good Extension Used-up end length for most tasks. Toilet-flange bolt WithFORMING your THE extension T-SLOTS stock cutFORMING to size, THE T-SLOTS use your tablesaw to cut grooves, where FILENAME:158158SlotJig.eps FILENAME:158158SlotJig.epsThe elongated flat head of a toilet-flange bolt Whether your extension has twin T-slots or a shownDate: 6-04in Step 1. Switch to yourDate: table- 6-04 makes a perfect T-slot fastener. If space allows, centered one, you can mount it with either edge mountedLorna J . router, and use a keyholeLorna bit J .to substitute wing nuts in place of the supplied down. When one end is used up, flip the extension rout the T-slots, where shown in Step 2. hex nuts. end-for-end.

woodmagazine.com 15 1101-03

11/16/01 TJC 1st edits 11/21/01 2nd edits 01/03/02 edits 02-04-02 TJC

Rout parallel slots between the guide and a 5⁄16" straight bit to perfection mounted in the router equals the I volunteered to make a tally board for intended spacing between the slots. my bridge club, and my plan to use slid- I routed the first slot with a 5⁄16" straight ing dovetails for each player’s name bit in my table-mounted router, then block seemed so simple. To lessen the used the same bit in my handheld router, strain on my router and prevent the with the subbase guide in the first slot, dovetail slot from packing with dust, I to rout the second slot. The second slot B decided to precut the slots with a straight guided the router for the third slot, and bit, then rerout them with a dovetail bit. so on, until I had cut all the slots that But how could I ensure dead-on repeat- would be needed. able spacing for 20 slots? Next, I switched to my dovetail bit, To solve the dilemma, I fashioned a and set the cutting depth so as to not subbase for my router from 1⁄2" birch widen the original 5⁄16" slot. I used the 1½”-wide plywood, with a 3⁄8×5⁄16" hardwood guide second slot to dovetail the first slot, then scrap dadoed in place on the bottom, as shown rerouted the remaining slots into dove- in the drawing below. The distance tails, using the adjacent slot as a guide. The jig worked like 0303-02 Dovetail slots a champ, saved me a Router with dovetail bit lot of time over alter- fi x 8 x 8" native methods, and 4-12-03 TJC plywood subbase edits 9-19-03 TJC the results were flaw- edit 10-24-03 TJC less. Before you try edit 11-03-03 TJC this, you’ll need to How to safely rout edit 11-12-03 TJC make some test cuts along a narrow edge to figure the precise Here’s a simple way to support your relationship between router when the edge of a ˇ" dado cutting depth, dove- part in an assembly. Clamp a 1½"-wide ‹" deep tail-bit angle, and scrap (a 2×2 works great) of the needed Slots precut with straight-bit diameter length to the part, flush with the edge, ˇ" straight bit to make sure the slots as shown. The scrap provides additional › x ˇ" hardwood will work for your support for the router base to ride on, guide glued into dado project. allowing you to keep the router stable —Charles Hoffman, and make a straight cut. Ellicott City, Md. —From the WOOD® magazine shop

Jig makes it safe to rout small pieces 4" Toggle clamp My table-mounted router seemed ideal 3 for shaping ⁄4" stock into knobs for a box Zero-clearance I was building, but the small blanks— router fence only 11⁄2" square—would make the job hazardous to my hands. So I built the jig, shown at right, to secure the blanks. 9" I cut scraps of Baltic birch plywood to the dimensions shown for the jig’s base and sliding L-shape guide. To make the Corretion 1/08jig adjustable, I cut two slots in the guide WD324864 and attached it to the base with knobs screwed into threaded inserts in the base. Plywood 12" ‡" A toggle clamp holds the workpiece firmly guide 2" against the base and the guide. I routed the front edge of the base, as shown, to 3" clear the bit; I then set up the appropriate bit and a zero-clearance fence on the Plywood base router table to machine the knobs. —Bob Lasley, Broken Arrow, Okla. fi" 4"

woodmagazine.com 113

Corretion 1/08 WD324869 Chapter 4 | Tables, Jigs, and Accessories

Mortising Jig Cutting mortises that match perfectly is easier than you think. With this adjustable jig, you can get professional, consistent results every time.

‹" wing nut ‹" threaded rod ‹" wing nut 4‡" long ‹" nut ‹" flat washer ‡" slot 1‹" 3" long 2‹" ‰" hole

‹" hole

1‹" 2‹" 3›" 3" he trick to cutting mortises in fi x 9› x 9" plywood table legs is to precisely position Tthe mortise on each leg and to make each mortise exactly the same length. Build the mortising jig as shown fi x 6‹ x 11" plywood at right, and you’ll be able to cut identi- fi x 1 x 6‹" plywood #8 x 1‹" F.H. 1 wood screw cal ⁄2"-wide mortises time after time. 6‹" To set up a cut, mark the length and centerline of the mortise on your work- 1" piece. Clamp the workpiece to the base of the jig so the mortise is centered in 2‹" the slot on the sliding top plate. Lock the plate into place with the wing nuts. 2‹" The threaded rod acts as a stop, and ¸" shank hole, allows you to adjust the length of the countersunk 1 1 mortise from ⁄2" to 2 ⁄4". Once you’ve 2‹" ˛" pilot hole locked in these settings, you can quickly 1‡" ‡" deep transfer the jig from one workpiece to ‹" slot the next. 2" long Now, fit your router with a 3⁄4" guide ‹" carriage bolt 1fi" long 2‡" bushing and a 1⁄2" straight or spiral-flute bit. (For the cleanest cuts, use an up-cut spiral for solid wood; a down-cut spiral fi" plywood with plywood and veneers.) Insert the 2‡" guide bushing at one end of the jig slot, turn on the power, plunge, lock, and guide the router to the other end. Deep mortises will require two or more passes—no sweat, thanks to your plunge fi x 3‡ x 11" plywood router turret stops. Just take time between passes to clear chips from the previous pass. ¿

106 Correction 1/08 Best-Ever Router Tips, Tricks, and Jigs 2008 WD320030

MORTISING JIG

FILENAME:123PlungeRouter1.eps Date: 1-3-99 Lorna J. router clinic easy-adjust router trammel Cut perfect circles from 15" to 48" in diameter with this shop-made accessory. Say goodbye to rough and irregular edges the next time you cut a circle or ring. And, How to build your own using the trammel’s extended base for Cut a piece of fi" Baltic birch plywood added stability, as shown at right, you 1 to 6×9‹" for the extended base (A). Cut can detail an edge or rabbet the back of a a centered ¤" groove ‹" deep along one cabinet without fear of the router tipping. end, where shown on Drawing 1 and the full-size base pattern on the WOOD A N Patterns® insert. Use a table-mounted 2 TRAMMEL ARM ¤" groove ‹" deep BrouterO with a slot cutter or a tablesaw with a zero-clearance insert to cut the groove. fi" hole ˇ" deep, ¤" round-over on bottom P on bottom face fi" recess 17fi" long edge, except on grooved end C Spray-adhere the full-size base pattern ˇ" deep, centered 1fi" ˇ" hole ˇ" hole 1fi" D2Q onto the blank, aligning the ¤" groove with the groove location marked on the B E R pattern. Bandsaw and sand the extended 3" baseS (A) to shape. F 1fi" Remove the baseplate from your router G3T and position the plate on the paper 1‡" ˇ" slot 16Å" long, centered 1‡" pattern adhered to the extended base. Align 20" H U the baseplate holes with the centering lines V Ion the pattern. Mark the screw-hole router. Then drill or scrollsaw the router-bit Form the trammel arm centerpoints, as shown in Photo A. Trace clearance hole. From fi" Baltic birch plywood, cut a J W the router-bit clearance hole onto the Rout a ¤" round-over along the bottom 1 piece to 3×20" for the trammel arm (B). X Kextended base. 5 edge of the extended base where shown. Cut a centered ¤" groove ‹" deep along YDrill and countersink the marked holes Note: Do not round over the end of the base one end of the arm, where shown on L for attaching the extended base to the with the groove. Drawing 2. 4Z M On the top face of the arm, mark the MARK BASE HOLE CENTERPOINTS 2 centerpoints, and drill a pair of ˇ" holes through the arm, where dimensioned 1 EXTENDED BASE on Drawing 2. Connect the hole perimeters for the slot (to be cut later) with a ‹-20 tapered knob and pencil. 3Œ" long 2 TRAMMELOn ARM the bottom face of the trammel arm ‹" flat washer 3 (B), use a Forstner bit to drill a fi" hole ˇ" deep, where shown on Drawing 2. A N ‹" hole, countersunk To form the trammel-arm recess, install ¤" groove on bottom face B O ‹" deep, 4 a fi" straight bit into your table-mounted centered Location of D router. Raise the bit ˇ" above the surface of C P Router-bit clearance hole the table. Position the fence so the bit D Q A centers over the fi" hole drilled in the previous step. Mark start and stop reference E R lines 1fi" from the center of the straight bit No round-over S F along this end on the router fence. A Bring the trammel arm (B) up to the left G T FILENAME:165Trammel2.eps start mark on the router fence, and slowly Transfer the screw-hole locations from your 5 ‹-20 x 1‹" F.H. ¤" round-overDate: 6-05fi" plywood H U machine screw Lorna J. router baseplate onto the extended base, lower it onto the bit, as shown in Photo B. positioning them over the centering lines. continued on page 40 V I J W 38 WOOD magazine October 2005 X K Y L Z M

1 EXTENDED BASE

FILENAME:165Trammel1.eps Date: 6-05 Lorna J. router clinic

ˇ-18 three-arm knob 3a PIVOT PIN CUTTING DETAIL #8A x Nfi" F.H. wood screw ˇ" flat washer B O CENTERPOINT ˇ" hexhead bolt ADJUSTMENT PLATE 2" long C 2"P 3 EXPLODED VIEW 4" D QE 1fi" F ¤" round-overs fi" E R ‹" E ˇ" hole,S centered F ‹-20 tapered knob Cut here. 2" fi" 3Œ" long A N 3" G T #8 x fl" F.H. TRAMMEL ARM wood screw B O B H U ¸" shank hole, ‹" flat washer 3b TRAMMEL ARM END SECTION VIEW A P N16fi" countersunk C V ›" ˇ" flat washer I CONNECTOR ˇ" flat Three-arm knob B O 7 64 D Q ground to fit W ⁄ " pilot hole PLATE washer J ›" deep 3" fi" recess P F ˇ" slot R CX ‹" hole E ˇ" hexnut to K 20" D S fit fi" recess DY Q E E F L 1‹" 3" Holes for mounting A B PIVOT PIN Zˇ"R slot to your router, countersunk G E ‡" ˇ" hexnut T M¤" round-over on on bottom side Washer ˇ" hexhead bolt S bottomF edge, C Pivot pin fi" recess H U 2" long with head except on grooved end hacksawed off 3a PIVOT PINˇ" deep V G T A I ¤" grooves CUTTING DETAIL ‹" deep, centered U J W H V ‹" hole, countersunk Putting the trammel to work X I K on bottom face Using trammel points or a large , Y J W mark the centerpoint and required radius L ‹-20 x 1‹" F.H. machine screw on your workpiece. Cut the workpiece Z X ¤" round-over M K about ¤" oversize with a handheld jigsaw. Y EXTENDED BASE This leaves less3b materialTRAMMEL to rout ARM and L END SECTION VIEW Z improves the quality of the cut. At the Carefully rout a ˇ"-deep Mrecess until the Join the extended base previously marked centerpoint drill a ˇ" trailing end reaches the right stop mark on the to the trammel arm hole ›" deep. Position the centerpoint fence. Lift the trammel arm off the bit. From ¤" hardboard, cut the spline (C) adjustment plate with attached pivot pin Scrollsaw the ˇ"-wide slot previously 1 to size. Glue the spline into the grooved until the distance from the inside cutting 6 marked on the top face of the trammel end of the trammel arm. edge of the straight bit to the center of arm (B). Rout a ¤" round-over along the Cut the connector plate (D) to size the pivot pin equals the desired radius of bottom edges of the trammel arm except on 2FILENAME:165Trammel3a.epsfrom ‹" hardboard. Drill the two the circle. Drop the pivot pin into the the grooved end, where indicated on countersunkDate: 6-05 mounting holes and glue and centered hole and begin routing in a Lorna J. Drawing 2. screw the connector plate to the trammel counterclockwise direction, as shown at arm (B), where shown on Drawing 3. Slide the top of the previous page. ¿ the extended base (A)3 EXPLODED over the spline VIEW (C) ROUT THE TRAMMEL-ARM RECESS Project design: Jeff Mertz in the trammel arm. Drill and countersink Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson 1fi" the ‹" hole through the base and con- nector plate for the knob machine screw, where indicated on the extended base Stop line Materials List FILENAME:165Trammel3.epsStart line pattern. This ensures hole alignment and a FINISHED SIZE Date: 6-05 tight fit between the two pieces. Part T W L Matl.Qty. Lorna J. A extended base fi" 6" 9‹" Ply 1 FILENAME:165Trammel3b.eps B trammel arm fi" 3" 20" Ply 1 AddDate: the 6-05 centerpoint adjustmentLorna J. plate C spline ¤" fi" 3" HB 1 B Cut the adjustment plate pieces E and D connector plate ‹" 3" 3" HB 1 F to size. Drill the holes shown on 1 E guide bars fi" fi" 2" Ply 2 Drawing 3. Screw the three pieces together. centerpoint Grind opposite edges off a 2" long ˇ" F adjustment plate ‹" 2" 4" HB 1 2flat washer so it fits into the fi"-wide Materials key: Ply–plywood, HB–hardboard. Supplies: Spray adhesive, #8×fl" flathead wood screws fi" straight bit trammel-arm recess. the head off a B (2), #8×fi" flathead wood screws (4), ‹-20×1‹" flathead ˇ" hexhead bolt, where shown on Drawing 3a. Align the end of the trammel arm (B) with the machine screw, ‹" flat washer, ‹-20 tapered knob, ˇ" start line on the router fence and carefully Thread a ˇ" hexnut onto the bolt. Assemble hexhead bolt 2" long with nut, ˇ" flat washers (2), ˇ-18 lower it onto the straight bit. Rout the access the adjustment plate to the trammel arm (B) in three-arm knob. until the trailing end reaches the stop line. the configuration shown on Drawing 3b. Bits: ¤" round-over, fi" straight router bits; fi" Forstner bit.

40 WOOD magazine October 2005 Great Ideas for Your Shop Cope- Cutting Sled Rout rail ends safely and precisely.

rock-solid support system helps you rout rail ends that tightly fit Amating stiles. The large base, dado, and hold-downs designed into this sled accomplish just that, while the handle and dowel keep your hands safely away from the spinning bit. Build the sled by cutting the parts to the sizes noted on the drawing. Make several extra sacrificial backer strips. The backers create zero-clearance supports for cleaner cuts, and can be easily replaced after becoming too chewed up. Glue two pieces of 1 ⁄2×71 ⁄2×17" plywood together face-to-face for the ¾" dowel 4¾" long base. Cut a 3⁄4"-deep dado 4" wide in the 1"-thick base. Use the full-size pattern ⁄" pilot hole on the WOOD Patterns® insert to create 1" deep, centered in bottom the handle, and rout 1 ⁄4" round-overs along the handle edges except for the ¼" round-overs bottom. Screw the handle, dowel, and ¾" toggle clamps to the base, making sure 1" the screwheads are countersunk so they 7½" Sacricial won’t rub against the router top. backer strip To cope the end of a rail using the ¾" sled, raise the bit 1 ⁄4" higher than if you No round-over were cutting the rail directly on the router tabletop. Clamp a scrap piece of Toggle clamp stock the same thickness as your rails firmly against the router-table fence 1" and backer strip with the toggle clamps. 1" 3¼" Turn on the router, and ease the sled BASE 4" and workpiece into the bit. Slide the sled and test piece backward just after 3" completing the cut in the rail end, 17" where shown in the photo. Doing this prevents destruction of the sled’s 4" dado #8 x 2" F.H. ¾" deep 1½" ¾" wood screw trailing inside edge. Check the fit of the 2" ¼" joint against your previously routed stiles, and adjust the height of the bit as 7½" ⁄" shank hole, countersunk necessary before cutting your rails. on bottom face Project design: Rod Cox, Mt. Pleasant, Iowa ¾" counterbore ½" deep with a ⁄" shank hole #8 x ¾" F.H. wood screw Get more FREE plans at: centered inside and #8 x 1½" F.H. wood screw woodmagazine.com/freeplans countersunk on bottom face

32 WOOD magazine July 2009

RAIL SLED ROUTER JIG FILENAME:192GIFY_#100205405.eps Date: 12-08 Lorna J.

FILENAME:100205405_CoxTip2.eps Date: 4-06 Lorna J.