Travels in Circassia, Krim-Tartary, &C. : Including a Steam Voyage Down The
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Ex Libris C. K. OGDEN THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES TRAVELS IN CIRCASSIA, KRIM-TARTARY, &c. &c. IN 1836. VOL. II. — DK ^11 C/S7 ^rf^ 1/2 CONTENTS THE SECOND VOLUME. LETTER L PAGE Return to the Crimea— English Residents—Departure for the Ancient Capital of Krim-Tartary — Ascent of the Ai-Petri — Scenery — Singular Steppe on the Summit of the Mountain—Perilous Descent—Hospitable Reception at the House of a Mourza — Aspect of the Inhabitants Tartar Villages — General Character of the Country — Tendency of Mahometanism 1 LETTER H. Bagtche-Serai as it is —Palace of the Khans—Singular Arabic Inscriptions—Wanton Barbarity of the Russians Environs—Gipsy Village— Inhabitants—Ancient Church and Convent — Visit to the Jewish Fortress Tschoufout- Kale — Cemetery—Notice on the Religion of the Karaite Jews '. 14 LETTER III. Valley of Baidar—Scenery— Hospitality of the Tartars — Passage of the Merdven — Terrific Descent — Singular Construction of the Road —Arrival at Aloupka 30 — VI CONTENTS. LETTER IV. PAGE Chateau of Count Worrenzow at Aloupka — Its Archi- tecture—Pleasure- grounds—Marsanda— Its Villa—Situ- ation and Park — Villas of the Russian Nobility — The Emperor's Park at Orianda — The Crimea unfavourable to the Growth of Forest Trees —Fete Champetre given by General Count De Witt 36 LETTER V. Absence of British Shipping in the Euxine—Voyage to Sevastopol — Iphigenia Corvette — Captain Poothatin — Errors in the Nautical Magazine — Russian Naval Force — Sevastopol in its present State — Harbour — Fortifica- tions — Singular Beauty of the Stone — Arsenal — Dock- yards — Aqueduct — Activity of the Russian Government —Prevalence of Ophthalmia among the Troops at Sevas- topol 45 LETTER VI. A few Observations upon the present State of the Rus- sian Empire 56 LETTER VII. Inefficient State of the Russian Navy—Russian Venal- ity and Peculation — Inadequate Salaries of the Public Functionaries — Additions to the Russian Treasury — Multiplication of Towns — Towns without Inhabitants — ('omparison between Odessa and its Rivals —Advance of Intelligence among the Russian People —Vanity a Fea- ture in the National Character 67 LETTER VIII. Ancient Geography and Antiquities of the Minor Pen- insula—Ctenus of Strabo— Eupatorium—Chersonesus —— CONTENTS. Vll PACK Propensity of the Russians to destroy Antiquities—Sub- terranean Town in the Rocky Caverns at Inkerman — Danger of the Climate—Supposed Origin of the Town Bav of Balaclava—Decay of Trade—Excursion to Sim- pheropol 78 LETTER IX. Sirapheropol — Contrast between the Russians and Tartars—Sultan Krim-Guerrai—Ascent of the Tschatir- Dagh, or Mons Trapezus — Prospect — Ferocity of the Shepherds' Dogs—A Turkish Fray—Journey across the Steppe—^Tartar Guides—Steppe Bivouacking—Steppe Roads— Difficulty of Travelling—Badness of the Water —Inclemency of the Winters 88 LETTER X. Steppe Travelling — Character of the Tartars con- trasted with that of the Colonists —Aspect of the Coun- Intermittent Fevers try— Insects — Mosquitoes— —The . Rana Variabilis — Salt-Marshes — Observations on the Unhealthiness of the Climate — Venomous Reptiles — Beauty of the Flowers—^The Jerboa—Suslik—Suroke . 102 LETTER XI. Arrival at Perecop—Annual Diminution of the Black Sea, and the Sea of Azov—Decrease of the Rivers that flow into them—Sterility of the Soil of the Crimea Its ancient Fertility — Decrease of the Population — Original Inhabitants — Historical Sketch — The Khans of Krim-Tartary — Causes which led to the Dismember- ment of their Empire — Political Intrigues of Russia — Final Subjection of the Country to that Power 113 LETTER XII. Distinction between the Tartar of the Crimea, the Nogay Tartar, and the Calmuck — Natural Quickness b ——— Vlll CONTENTS. PAGE of the Intellect of the Tartars—Their Flocks and Herds —Utility of the Horse to the Tartars —Their Disposition to a Nomadic Life—Hatred of the Cossack, and Squab- bles with the Colonists—Their Customs and Manners Marriage—Slavish State of the Women in the East. ... 125 LETTER XHL Customs and Manners of the Tartars continued Their Children — Diseases — Hospitality — Industry — Love of Dress — Ornaments — Superstition —Doctors Patience under Affliction — Ceremonies of Interment Privilege of wearing a Beard—Language—Character Music — Amusements — Smoking — Improved State of the Inhabitants of Krim-Tartary under the Russian Go- vernment — Character of the Governor-General Count Worrenzow 139 LETTER XIV. Journey from Perecop to Eupatoria—Tartar Carriage — Moullah and his Wife — Arrival at Eupatoria Its Decrease of Trade and Population — A Tartar Inn — Arrival of a Mysterious Traveller — A novel Mineral Bath — Poverty of the Tartars — Their Dwelling-houses Danger of the Climate to Strangers — Long Drought Steppe on Fire — Locusts — Voyage to Odessa — Battle between the Inhabitants and the Locusts 154 LETTER XV. Picture of Odessa—Disadvantageous Situation— Scar- city of Water and Fuel — Insalubrity of the Chmate Harbour—Decrease of Commerce—Passports—Venality of the Russian Authorities , 167 LETTER XVI. Journey through Bessarabia and Moldavia to Galatz — Steppe — Colonists — Barbarity of the Russian Go- CONTENTS. IX I'AGE vernment towards the Jews — Russian Serfs — Cossacks —Bender—Primitive Caravans—Facility of Posting in Russia — Steppe Roads — Arrival at Galatz 177 LETTER XVII. Steam-boat Voyage toTrebizond — Passengers — Ex- cessive Partiality of the Turks for Steam-boat Travelling — Advantages of Steam Navigation — Coast of Asia- Minor — Arrival at Trebizond — Increasing Prosperity of the Town — English Commerce — Harbour — Caravan- Sarai — Hints to Merchants —Antiquity of Trebizond — Climate — Environs — Fertility of the Soil 1 87 LETTER XVIII. Difficulties attending a Visit to the Caucasus — Do- mineering Influence of Russia in Turkey— Feeble State of the Ottoman Empire — Sympathy of the Turks for the Circassians — Departure for Circassia in a Turkish Brig- antine — Chased by a Russian Man-of-War— An unex- pected Discovery— Superb View of the Caucasian Alps 197 LETTER XIX. Arrival at Pchad — Circassian Boats resembling the Kamara of Strabon — Bay of Pchad — Russian Settle- ment — Causes that led to their Expulsion — Circassian Language — Hints to Travellers — Characteristics of the Inhabitants — Martial Appearance — Costume — Wea- pons 208 LETTER XX. Second Excursion into the Interior of Circassia — General Appearance of the Circassian Territory — Ar- rival at the Residence of a Pchi-Khan — His Hospitality — Domestic Manners — Mode of Living — Visit of a Circassian Prince 220 — X CONTENTS. LETTER XXI. PAGE Departure for the Residence of a Circassian Chief — Romantic Character of the Scenery — Colony of Krim- Tartars — Alpine Village — Abundance of Game — Arrival at the Residence of the Chief— His Appearance and Manners — Interior of a Circassian Dwelling House — A Nocturnal Serenade in Circassia — War-cry of the Circassians — Introduction to the Family of the Chief Beauty of the Women —Their Manners and Costume Occupations of the Circassians 232 LETTER XXII. Suspicious Feeling of the Circassians towards Fo- reigners — Journey to the Valley of Thumusse — Arrival at the Circassian Camp — Situation — Circassian Gue- rillas — Their Mode of Fighting — A Reconnaissance — Fortunate Escape — A Russian Spy 248 LETTER XXIII. Plans of Russia for the Subjection of Circassia — Preparations of the Confederated Tribes to oppose the Progress of Russia — Departure for the Circassian Camp on the Ubin — Beautiful Scenery — Arrival at the Camp — Display of the National Banner — Enthusiasm of the People 264 LETTER XXIV. Public Assembly — Oration of an Aged Warrior — Patriotism of the Circassians — Determination to main- tain their Independence — Disadvantages they labour under with regard to Weapons of Defence — Visit of a Friendly Stranger to the Caucasus — Popularity of England in Circassia 272 CONTENTS. XI LETTER XXV. I'AGK Developement of Russian Policy in the Caucasus — Attachment of the Circassian Chiefs to the National Cause — Ultimate Views of Russia with regard to the Occupation of the Caucasus — Her Hostility to English Interests — Policy of England with respect to Circassia — Consequences of British Interference 283 LETTER XXVI. Right of Circassia to be considered Independent, as proved by Russia — Russian Ukase — Russian Violation of Treaties — Right of International Interference —Visit of a British Naval Officer to Circassia — Consequences resulting from it 292 LETTER XXVII. New Russian Settlement at Aboun — Excursion to the Kouban — Cossack Guard-houses — Animosity be- tween the Circassians and the Tchernemorsky Cossacks — Character of the Tchernemorsky Cossacks — Preda- tory Habits of the Borderers — Insalubrity of the Country on the Banks of the Kouban 301 LETTER XXVIII. Caucasian Scenery — Aspect of the Country — In- dustry of the Inhabitants — Their Personal Appearance — Villages — Population — Character of the Circassians Liability of Travellers to be seized as Slaves — Arrival at the House of a Demirghoi Prince — His Hospitality — Manner of Living — Abstemious Habits of the Cir- cassians 318 LETTER XXIX. Camp of the Demirghoi Chieftain — Warlike Habits of the People — Capture of a Russian Corvette — Expe- diency of adopting the National Customs of a Country — XH CONTENTS. PAGE — Circassian Music — Their Musical Instruments — Me- lodies —War Songs — Improwisatores —Bards—Poetry 329 LETTER XXX. Similarity of the Tumuli in the Caucasus to those of Krim-Tartary— Interior of a Tumulus — Few Remnants of Antiquity to be found in the Caucasus