351 Maq. Travesia Ueli Steck 2 Plantilla Desnivel
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Trip Factsheet: Piz Bernina Ski Tour the Piz Bernina Overlooks The
Trip Factsheet: Piz Bernina Ski Tour The Piz Bernina overlooks the Engardine valley in Switzerland and despite its proximity to the glitzy resort of St. Moritz the ski touring is quiet and unspoiled. It covers some challenging terrain and dramatic scenery with some big days out at altitude for the avid ski tourer. Travel to and from Silvaplana The closest airport is Zurich. Transfer time to Silvaplana by rail is about 4 hours 15 mins. For train timetables and fares please look at www.sbb.ch/en You want to arrange to arrive in Silvaplana by late afternoon on the Saturday. At the end of the week the tour finishes after breakfast on the second Saturday and we recommend that you arrange your return/onward flight for mid/late afternoon to give yourself plenty of time to get to the airport without having to rush! Want to take the train to the resort? No problem – it’s possible to get to St. Moritz by train from the UK using the Eurostar from London St. Pancras to Paris, then the TGV to Basel and onward via regional train. The journey can be done in 1 day. For more information and other useful train travel details look at www.snowcarbon.co.uk Swiss Transfer Ticket - this is a return ticket from the Swiss boarder or one of Switzerland's airports to your destination. The ticket is valid for 1 month, but each journey must be completed in one day and on the most direct route. The transfer ticket cannot be brought in Switzerland you must do it in advance from a sales point like the Switzerland Travel Centre in London. -
Incontri Ravvicinati
Montagne360 La rivista del Club alpino italiano novembre 2015 € 3,90 ALLE PORTE DEL CIELO INCONTRI RAVViciNATI Il sogno himalayano A tu per tu con la favolosa fauna di un alpinista qualunque dell’Appennino centrale La GROTTA DI FUmaNE Alla ricerca dei primi uomini moderni del Club alpino italiano n. 38/2014. Poste Italiane Spa, sped. in abb. Post. - 45% 2 art. comma 20/b Post. - in legge 662/96 sped. Italiane abb. Filiale Spa, di Milano Poste del Club alpino italiano 38/2014. n. 3,90. Rivista mensile 3,90. € Montagne360. Novembre 2015, 2015, Novembre Montagne360. Editoriale Offerta riservata solo ai Soci orizzonti e orientamenti CLUB ALPINO ITALIANO Facciamo sentire la voce della montagne del P Abbonati mondo alla Conferenza sul clima Ormai ci siamo. Il 30 novembre partirà la Conferenza Parigi 2015 sul Clima, con lo sconto di oltre il COP21. Un’occasione da non perdere per far sentire la voce delle montagne del mondo. In un mio editoriale auspicavo una alleanza dei club alpini sul tema del contrasto ai cambiamenti climatici che vedesse il CAI, che è molto attivo su que- sto fronte, come motore propulsivo. A ulteriore conferma della proattività del CAI, mentre vi proponevo questa riflessione, il nostro Sodalizio, stava inviando all’UIAA (Union Internationale des Association d’Alpinisme) la proposta di in- serire nell’ordine del giorno dell’Assemblea generale di Seoul in Corea (20-24 ottobre 2015) l’adozione di una Delibera sul cambiamento climatico da parte delle Federazioni membri dell’Unione. Il CAI propone all’Assemblea, riprenden- do anche quanto espresso già nel 2013 da Mr. -
4000 M Peaks of the Alps Normal and Classic Routes
rock&ice 3 4000 m Peaks of the Alps Normal and classic routes idea Montagna editoria e alpinismo Rock&Ice l 4000m Peaks of the Alps l Contents CONTENTS FIVE • • 51a Normal Route to Punta Giordani 257 WEISSHORN AND MATTERHORN ALPS 175 • 52a Normal Route to the Vincent Pyramid 259 • Preface 5 12 Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey 101 35 Dent d’Hérens 180 • 52b Punta Giordani-Vincent Pyramid 261 • Introduction 6 • 12 North Face Right 102 • 35a Normal Route 181 Traverse • Geogrpahic location 14 13 Gran Pilier d’Angle 108 • 35b Tiefmatten Ridge (West Ridge) 183 53 Schwarzhorn/Corno Nero 265 • Technical notes 16 • 13 South Face and Peuterey Ridge 109 36 Matterhorn 185 54 Ludwigshöhe 265 14 Mont Blanc de Courmayeur 114 • 36a Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat) 186 55 Parrotspitze 265 ONE • MASSIF DES ÉCRINS 23 • 14 Eccles Couloir and Peuterey Ridge 115 • 36b Lion Ridge 192 • 53-55 Traverse of the Three Peaks 266 1 Barre des Écrins 26 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable 117 37 Dent Blanche 198 56 Signalkuppe 269 • 1a Normal Route 27 15 L’Isolée 117 • 37 Normal Route via the Wandflue Ridge 199 57 Zumsteinspitze 269 • 1b Coolidge Couloir 30 16 Pointe Carmen 117 38 Bishorn 202 • 56-57 Normal Route to the Signalkuppe 270 2 Dôme de Neige des Écrins 32 17 Pointe Médiane 117 • 38 Normal Route 203 and the Zumsteinspitze • 2 Normal Route 32 18 Pointe Chaubert 117 39 Weisshorn 206 58 Dufourspitze 274 19 Corne du Diable 117 • 39 Normal Route 207 59 Nordend 274 TWO • GRAN PARADISO MASSIF 35 • 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable Traverse 118 40 Ober Gabelhorn 212 • 58a Normal Route to the Dufourspitze -
In Memoriam 115
IN MEMORIAM 115 • IN MEMORIAM CLAUDE WILSON 1860-1937 THE death of Claude Wilson within a few weeks of attaining his seventy-seventh birthday came as a terrible shock to his many friends. Few of us even knew that he was ill, but in the manner of his passing none can regret that there was no lingering illness. We can but quote his own words in Lord Conway's obituary: 'the best we can wish for those that we love is that they may be spared prolonged and hopeless ill health.' His brain remained clear up to the last twenty-four hours and he suffered no pain. The end occurred on October 31. With Claude Wilson's death an epoch of mountaineering comes to an end. He was of those who made guideless and Alpine history from Montenvers in the early 'nineties, of whom but Collie, Kesteven, Bradby, ~olly and Charles Pasteur still survive. That school, in which Mummery and Morse were perhaps the most prominent examples, was not composed of specialists. Its members had learnt their craft under the best Valais and Oberland guides; they were equally-proficient on rocks or on snow. It mattered little who was acting as leader in the ascent or last man in the descent. They were prepared to turn back if conditions or weather proved unfavourable. They took chances as all mountaineers are forced to do at times but no fatal accidents, no unfortunate incidents, marred that great page of Alpine history, a page not confined to Mont Blanc alone but distributed throughout the Western Alps. -
More Diverse My Säntis My Säntis 2021
english My Säntis More diverse My Säntis 2021 With new worlds of experiences saentisbahn.ch Directions We are the destination of your journey. Mount Säntis is the highest mountain in eastern Switzerland. The Säntis cable car starts out from Schwägalp, which is easy to reach throughout the year without a Swiss motorway toll sticker using well-maintained roads that are kept clear of snow in winter. There is plenty of free parking at the cable car base station (including bus and disabled parking bays). Public transport By train to Urnäsch or Nesslau. Then by post bus straight to the base station. Car / bus Time Distance Zürich-Schwägalp 1.20 h 81 km Chur-Schwägalp 1.20 h 88 km Friedrichshafen-Schwägalp 1.45 h 66 km Lindau-Schwägalp 1.20 h 98 km Konstanz-Schwägalp 1.20 h 61 km Bregenz-Schwägalp 1.15 h 76 km Stuttgart München Singen Ravensburg Meersburg Schaffhausen Friedrichshafen Konstanz Kreuzlingen Lindau Frauenfeld Romanshorn Bregenz Rorschach Altenrhein Wil Zürich Winterthur Gossau St.Margrethen St.Gallen Altstätten Zürich Herisau Appenzell Wattwil Schwägalp Urnäsch Rapperswil Feldkirch Nesslau Wildhaus Amden Buchs Arlberg Ziegelbrücke Sargans For more information, visit Glarus www.saentisbahn.ch and www.sbb.ch Schedule 2021 Keeping an eye on six different countries as well as the time. 19 October 2020 to 17 January 2021* Mon – Sun 08.30 am – 17.00 pm 6 February to 14 May 2021 Mon – Fri 08.30 am – 17.00 pm Sat, Sun 08.00 am – 17.00 pm 15 May to 24 October 2021 Mon – Fri 07.30 am – 18.00 pm Sat, Sun 07.30 am – 18.30 pm 25 October to 31 December 2021 Mon – Sun 08.30 am – 17.00 pm * Cable car closure from Monday, 18 January, to Friday, 5 February 2021. -
Climbing in the Ecrins
DUNCAN TUNSTALL Climbing in the Ecrins he quantity and quality of high-standard rock climbs now available in T all areas of the Alps is astounding. Many of the areas are well known Chamonix, the Bregaglia, the Sella Pass area of the Dolomites, Sanetsch and, of course, Handeg. All offer routes of high quality and perfect rock. There is only one problem with these areas and that is that they are too popular. Fortunately, for those of us who value solitude in the mountains, there are still regions inthe Alps that provide routes of equal standing to the above but, for reasons not entirely understood, do not attract the crowds. One of the best kept secrets in British climbing circles is that some of the finest rock climbing in the Alps is now to be found in the Ecrins massif where many ofthe climbs stand comparison with anything that Chamonix or the Bregaglia have to offer. The quality of the rock is more than ade quate on most routes, although the odd slightly suspect pitch may add a spice of adventure. This factor has given the range an unfair reputation for looseness which, when combined with a lack of telepheriques, has been effective in keeping the crowds away. A brief summary follows of the best of the granite climbing in the Ecrins massif. But first I feel I ought to say something about the use of bolts. This is a difficult subject and many words have already been expended on it. My own views are simple: the high mountains, like our own small cliffs, are no place for bolts. -
Tour De Monte Rosa
TOUR DE MONTE ROSA Complete the Tour de Monte Rosa, a superb Alpine trekking holiday around Switzerland's highest peak Complete a full 9-day walking circuit around the Monte Rosa massif Walk hut-to-hut and overnight in a succession of atmospheric Alpine refuges Be immersed in stunning Swiss and Italian Alpine scenery, with views of the Matterhorn Experience one of Europe's finest walking holidays - an undiscovered gem HOLIDAY CODE TMR Switzerland, Trek & Walk, 11 Days 5 nights mountain hut / refuge, 5 nights hotel, 10 breakfasts, 10 dinners, max group size: 10, 9 days trekking, max altitude - 3317m VIEW DATES, PRICES & BOOK YOUR HOLIDAY HERE www.keadventure.com UK: +44(0) 17687 73966 US (toll-free): 1-888-630-4415 PAGE 2 TOUR DE MONTE ROSA Introduction Classic walking holiday adventure trekking around Monte Rosa in the Swiss Alps. One of the finest long-distance trekking opportunities in Alpine Europe is the walking circuit of the huge, many-summitted massif of Monte Rosa (4634m) in the Swiss Alps. Starting out from the picturesque Alpine village of Saas Fee, our walking follows a clockwise direction, crossing from Switzerland then trekking into Italy and then back again. This undiscovered gem of a walking route around Monte Rosa keeps to the high ground as much as possible, close up beneath towering Alpine peaks, crossing airy passes and encountering snowfields and even walking over glaciers. En route, there are stunning views of many of the big peaks of the Alps, such as the Dom (4545m) Weisshorn (4596m) and particularly memorable Matterhorn (4478m). -
Inalto-2020.Pdf
In Alto Direttore responsabile Registrazione Tribunale di Udine serie V, Volume C, Alessandra Beltrame n. 266 del 3.12.1970 anno CXL – 2020 ISSN 1827-353X Redazione Società Alpina Friulana Claudio Mitri Distribuito gratuitamente Sezione di Udine ai soci della SAF del Club Alpino Italiano Progetto grafico ODV Raffaella De Reggi Copie e arretrati Via Brigata Re, 29 Società Alpina Friulana 33100 Udine [email protected] www.alpinafriulana.it Con il sostegno della Pagina 4: stemma allegorico della Società Alpina Friulana stampato sul fascicolo delle nozze d’argento di Giovanni Marinelli con Carolina Orlandi, febbraio 1895. Litografia Passero (archivio Umberto Sello) IN ALTO 100 IN ALTO Cronaca della Società Alpina Friulana SERIE V - VOLUME C ANNO CXL - 2020 SOMMARIO Editoriali Volgere lo sguardo alla bellezza Vincenzo Torti ........................................ 8 Cento volte Saf Enrico Brisighelli ............................................................. 10 Cultura alpina Alessandra Beltrame.......................................................... 13 Pensieri e studi Emersioni di lettura Silvia Metzeltin ........................................................ 16 La montagna come antidoto al virus Augusto Cosulich ........................... 21 Il mistero della pergamena Paolo Cavallanti ............................................ 37 Prime salite femminili al Montasio Daniela Durissini .............................. 45 Una misconosciuta ricchezza Sebastiano Parmegiani ............................... 55 L’Alta Via delle Alpi Giulie -
Berg – Erfahrungen
1 BERG – ERFAHRUNGEN Bergsport, ein kulturdynamisches Phänomen Diplomarbeit zur Erlangung des akademischen Grades einer Magistra der Philosophie/ an der Karl-Franzens-Universität Graz vorgelegt von Elfriede Maria Lackner am Institut für *..Volkskunde und Kulturanthropologie Begutachter(in)**Univ.Prof. Dr._in Johanna Rolshoven Graz, 2011 2 INHALTSVERZEICHNIS Seite 1. Vorbemerkungen 1.1. Berg - Erfahrungen 2010 1 1.2. Einleitung - Ausgangfragen – Theorien – Hypothesen 3 2. Raume - Orte – Strukturen 2.1. Begriffe und Verortungen 8 2.2. Die Darstellung des Phänomens in Zahlen 11 2.2.1. Die historische Gleichzeitigkeit 13 2.2.2. Entstehung und Transformation des Bildes Bergsport 15 2.3. Bergsport und Kulturtheorien 17 2.4. Exemplarische Darstellung der Feldforschung 20 2.5. Methodische Ansätze oder eine an das Feld angepasste Methode 21 2.5.1. Feldforschungsinhalte und Erkenntnisinteressen 23 2.5.2. Darstellung und Begründung des Forschungsdesigns 27 3. Wahrnehmung und Interpretation bergsportlichen Tuns 29 3.1. Forschungsregionen und Forschungsinhalte im Kontext 30 3.1.1. Bergwelten in Tirol : Der Wilde und der Zahme Kaiser 30 3.1.2. Bergwelt Nationalpark Gesäuse in der Steiermark - Die Hesshütte ………………..34 3.2. Exemplarische Darstellung und Analyse der Forschungsdaten Fallbeispiel 1: Tirol – Wilder und Zahmer Kaiser 38 3.2.1. Von den Quellen zur Analyse 40 3.2.2. Expertengespräche / Ergänzungen 53 3.3. Exemplarische Darstellung und Analyse der Forschungsdaten Fallbeispiel 2: Nationalpark Gesäuse – Die Hesshütte 57 3.3.1. Altersspezifische Sichtweisen des Bergsportes in der Postmoderne 76 3 4 Markierte und unmarkierte Wege 80 4.1.Forschungsfelder im historischen Kontext 81 4.2. Gipfelerlebnisse und Rituale 84 4.3. Ganzheitlichkeit – Genuss – Ruhe –Muße 86 5. -
Annapurna-2013-Steck
ANNAPURNA 1, South face, Ueli Steck, 8-9 October 2013 By Rodolphe Popier FACTS EXAMINATION and ANALYSIS p4 1/ Objective indirect elements of proofs p4 11/ Lights: p4 Sherpas’ statements p4 Contradicting other members’ statements p5 12/ Tracks: p9 13/ Remnants of tracks found by second team on the route: p11 2/ Timings and conditions P12 21/ A 21st century speed ascent! P12 211/ A global lack of precision in the produced data p12 212/ A speed overview essay p16 213/ Comparative speeds of Steck with 2 other teams p19 22/ Atmospheric and mountain conditions comparison p21 3/ Accounts and contradictions p26 31/ A new official German version following the 2014 Piolet d’Or award p26 32/ 4 different summit accounts P27 33/ 2 versions for the camera’s loss: p29 First version: at 6700m at 15h? p29 Second version: 7000m, after having searched for a bivy spot at the foot of the headwall? P30 34/ A varying number of abseils p32 4/ Further miscellaneous points p35 41/ The SMS / Sat phone p35 42/ In an almost “Olympic shape” after 28 hours of climbing P36 43/ Headwall details discussed with Graziani & Benoist p37 One of the very few in-depth studies, unpublished in its entirety so far, about the climb of Ueli Steck was led by Andreas Kubin, former Chief Editor of Bergsteiger for 25 years. This study is primarily based on his work, checking again his own conclusions and completing it with my own findings. Eberhard Jurgalski originally suggested me to do that study. I didn’t contact Ueli Steck regarding any facts on Annapurna 1. -
Il Bernina 34
il Bernina 34. Jahrgang Nr. 133 / Februar 2017 Noviteds dal club www.sac-bernina.ch Chamanna Boval Chamanna Es-cha Chamanna Jenatsch Chamanna Tschierva Rifugio Saoseo Reach your Mountopia with dynafit.com Via Maistra 147, 7504 Pontresina [email protected] /SalewaMountainshopPontresina Öffnungszeiten: Mo – Fr: 08.30 - 12.00 | 14.00 - 18.30 Uhr Sa: 08.30 - 18.00 Uhr Inhaltsverzeichnis Voranzeige zur Jahresversammlung 5 Gratulationen / Mutationen 5/7 News-Ecke Neues aus der Tourenkommission 9 Tourenberichte Kletterwochenende Valsassina / Zucco dell'Angelone 14 Ausbildungswochenende Lawinen 16 Piz Minor – eine Tour zum Jahresende 19 Piz dal Sasc – Komfort-Tour der Superlative direkt 22 Munt Buffalora – Seniorentour 24 Hütten-Ecke Michel Anrig – neuer Hüttenwart Chamanna d'Es-cha 29 Rück- und Ausblicke 2016/17 31 JO-Ecke Jahresprogramm 2017 35 Neulich auf dem Parpeinahorn, 29.01.2017: v.l. Susi, Ruedi und Othmar Reach your Mountopia with dynafit.com Via Maistra 147, 7504 Pontresina [email protected] /SalewaMountainshopPontresina Öffnungszeiten: Mo – Fr: 08.30 - 12.00 | 14.00 - 18.30 Uhr Sa: 08.30 - 18.00 Uhr 3 Bouldern Klettern Bowling Lounge Pizzeria Der Bergsportspezialist in Pontresina Die Kletter- & Boulderhalle im Engadin Via Maistra 163 & 167 • 7504 Pontresina • 081 834 57 58 Serlas 413 • 7525 S-chanf • 081 659 00 01 Ihr kompetenter Partner Sanitäre Anlagen Bauspenglerei Bedachungen Blitzschutzanlagen Werkleitungen Semadeni Fabio Fassadenbau Einbauküchen www.duttweiler-ag.ch Food & Beverage AG 7603 Vicosoprano Tel. +41 (0)81 822 11 83 Fax +41 (0)81 822 18 25 F. Duttweiler AG · 7503 Samedan T 081 851 07 50 · [email protected] [email protected] semadeni_inserat_bernina 56x86.i1 1 7.3.2016 9:34:43 Uhr 4 Voranzeige Jahresversammlung Freitag, 28. -
In Memoriam Ueli Stecke En Royal Robbins.Pdf
ACTUEEL /IN MEMORIAM... In anderhalve maand verloor de klimmerswereld twee van haar helden. Grote helden, levende legenden. Twee rotsen die het klimmen ingrijpend hebben veranderd, elk in hun eigen tijd. Royal Robbins groeide op in Californië. Hij werd de pionier van het “bigwallklimmen” en een paus van de clean climbing beweging. Ueli Steck groeide op in de schaduw van de Eigerwand, die hij al op z’n achttiende voor de eerste keer beklom. De Eiger werd zijn speeltuin en laboratorium. Robbins was al vele jaren ziek en stierf op tweeëntachtigjarige leeftijd in zijn woning in Modesta (CA) met zijn vrouw Liz aan zijn zijde. Ueli Steck stierf in zijn meest gelief- de arena, op het hoogtepunt van zijn kunnen. Zijn dood kwam als een donderslag bij heldere hemel, terwijl het even onbegrijpelijk is dat iemand een dergelijk parcours überhaupt kon overleven. Maar iedereen sterft uiteindelijk, of het nu in je eigen bed is of tijdens een beklimming. Enkel voor wie achterblijft, kan het mogelijk een verschil maken. We hoeven niet eens te weten wat er door Ueli’s hoofd ging in de laatste seconden van zijn bewustzijn. Zijn vrouw Nicole heeft hem honderden malen zien vertrekken voor een beklimming, met veel vertrouwen, maar altijd met een portie ongerustheid. En Ueli was zich daar terdege van bewust. Is het eervoller om te sterven in de strijd voor nog meer roem en zelfvoldoening? Als er al een antwoord bestaat, dan is het niet eens relevant. Neen, je beklimt een berg omdat je voelt dat je dat moet doen. En dat verlangen is net iets sterker dan het besef dat het fout kan gaan.