Contents Volume 36, June 2017
Total Page：16
File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb
Load more
Recommended publications
-
Gear Brands List & Lexicon
Gear Brands List & Lexicon Mountain climbing is an equipment intensive activity. Having good equipment in the mountains increases safety and your comfort level and therefore your chance of having a successful climb. Alpine Ascents does not sell equipment nor do we receive any outside incentive to recommend a particular brand name over another. Our recommendations are based on quality, experience and performance with your best interest in mind. This lexicon represents years of in-field knowledge and experience by a multitude of guides, teachers and climbers. We have found that by being well-equipped on climbs and expeditions our climbers are able to succeed in conditions that force other teams back. No matter which trip you are considering you can trust the gear selection has been carefully thought out to every last detail. People new to the sport often find gear purchasing a daunting chore. We recommend you examine our suggested brands closely to assist in your purchasing decisions and consider renting gear whenever possible. Begin preparing for your trip as far in advance as possible so that you may find sale items. As always we highly recommend consulting our staff of experts prior to making major equipment purchases. A Word on Layering One of the most frequently asked questions regarding outdoor equipment relates to clothing, specifically (and most importantly for safety and comfort), proper layering. There are Four basic layers you will need on most of our trips, including our Mount Rainier programs. They are illustrated below: Underwear -
Pressive and Should Broaden the Book's Appeal Far Beyond Those Familiar with Its Subject
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE Publicity Contact: Samantha Lien, Roger Charlie (720) 425-3933 | [email protected] EDGE OF THE MAP THE MOUNTAIN LIFE OF CHRISTINE BOSKOFF “The Next Must-Read” — REI Uncommon Path “An intimate look at the friendships and adventures enjoyed by those in the close-knit mountaineering community.” — Booklist “Equal parts climbing history, love story, and riveting mystery.” — Vanessa O’Brien, first American and British woman to summit K2 The Remarkable, Untold Story of a Pioneer in Mountaineering Groundbreaking. World-class. Legendary. All words that have been used to describe Christine Boskoff, a pioneering high- altitude mountaineer and mountain guide, one of the first women to own and operate a major, international mountain guiding business. And yet, her story—that of a talented and driven young woman who dared to challenge herself to excel in a male-dominated sport—is largely unknown. A remarkable life tragically cut short, Boskoff was at the top of the high- altitude world when she and her partner Charlie Fowler died in an avalanche on a remote mountain in 2006; at the time, she was the only living woman to summit six of the 8000-meter peaks. Charismatic, principled, and humble, Boskoff was also a deeply loved role model to her climbing partners and the Sherpa community. Edge of the Map traces the sharp twists and turns in Boskoff’s life, from her early years as a Lockheed engineer, through her first successes in the climbing world, to her purchase of Seattle-based Mountain Madness after owner and climber Scott Fischer was killed in the 1996 Everest disaster. -
Incontri Ravvicinati
Montagne360 La rivista del Club alpino italiano novembre 2015 € 3,90 ALLE PORTE DEL CIELO INCONTRI RAVViciNATI Il sogno himalayano A tu per tu con la favolosa fauna di un alpinista qualunque dell’Appennino centrale La GROTTA DI FUmaNE Alla ricerca dei primi uomini moderni del Club alpino italiano n. 38/2014. Poste Italiane Spa, sped. in abb. Post. - 45% 2 art. comma 20/b Post. - in legge 662/96 sped. Italiane abb. Filiale Spa, di Milano Poste del Club alpino italiano 38/2014. n. 3,90. Rivista mensile 3,90. € Montagne360. Novembre 2015, 2015, Novembre Montagne360. Editoriale Offerta riservata solo ai Soci orizzonti e orientamenti CLUB ALPINO ITALIANO Facciamo sentire la voce della montagne del P Abbonati mondo alla Conferenza sul clima Ormai ci siamo. Il 30 novembre partirà la Conferenza Parigi 2015 sul Clima, con lo sconto di oltre il COP21. Un’occasione da non perdere per far sentire la voce delle montagne del mondo. In un mio editoriale auspicavo una alleanza dei club alpini sul tema del contrasto ai cambiamenti climatici che vedesse il CAI, che è molto attivo su que- sto fronte, come motore propulsivo. A ulteriore conferma della proattività del CAI, mentre vi proponevo questa riflessione, il nostro Sodalizio, stava inviando all’UIAA (Union Internationale des Association d’Alpinisme) la proposta di in- serire nell’ordine del giorno dell’Assemblea generale di Seoul in Corea (20-24 ottobre 2015) l’adozione di una Delibera sul cambiamento climatico da parte delle Federazioni membri dell’Unione. Il CAI propone all’Assemblea, riprenden- do anche quanto espresso già nel 2013 da Mr. -
Jan-Vol11-84-92.Pdf
e JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS 2010 JOE PURYEAR Things Things Invisible to See A quest for unknown mountains in Chna and Nepal At first the telltale sound of death came from abov 巴， like a helicopter’s blades spinning and rapidly approaching. approaching. But as soon as I saw it, I knew rockfall wasn’t going to kill us: its path skewed slightly from our our position, just 巴nough to leave us safe. I could even let myself notice its eerie, unusual beauty. Rocks glided glided down the blue ice, skimming the surface as they approached terminal velocity. Then my heart pounded loud again: Rockfall? David Gottlieb and I were right in the middle of a tilted ice sheet, weaving our our way through two gargantuan hanging glaciers, concerned about icefall. We hadn’t even considered considered the rockband that rose directly above us. But th巴re was no way, really, to prepare for a mountain like this: the summit of Jobo Ri町 ang was untouched, untouched, our line unattempted. All we had to go on were incorrect maps and low-res photos taken 企om distance. a distance. We didn’t even know what Jobo Rinjang would look like close up .My past experiences on unclimbed unclimbed peaks had taught me that each one would be entirely different from the next. Beyond the swath of blue ice we’d chosen, a decaying rampart of ancient stone, barely held together by patches patches of disintegrating ic巴， fell away to the Lunag Glaci巴r . Dikes and streaking bands of burnt umber, umber, dark gray and beige were crayoned across the wall like a child’s chaotic drawing. -
Mountaineering Books Under £10
Mountaineering Books Under £10 AUTHOR TITLE PUBLISHER EDITION CONDITION DESCRIPTION REFNo PRICE AA Publishing Focus On The Peak District AA Publishing 1997 First Edition 96pp, paperback, VG Includes walk and cycle rides. 49344 £3 Abell Ed My Father's Keep. A Journey Of Ed Abell 2013 First Edition 106pp, paperback, Fine copy The book is a story of hope for 67412 £9 Forgiveness Through The Himalaya. healing of our most complicated family relationships through understanding, compassion, and forgiveness, peace for ourselves despite our inability to save our loved ones from the ravages of addiction, and strength for the arduous yet enriching journey. Abraham Guide To Keswick & The Vale Of G.P. Abraham Ltd 20 page booklet 5890 £8 George D. Derwentwater Abraham Modern Mountaineering Methuen & Co 1948 3rd Edition 198pp, large bump to head of spine, Classic text from the rock climbing 5759 £6 George D. Revised slight slant to spine, Good in Good+ pioneer, covering the Alps, North dw. Wales and The Lake District. Abt Julius Allgau Landshaft Und Menschen Bergverlag Rudolf 1938 First Edition 143pp, inscription, text in German, VG- 10397 £4 Rother in G chipped dw. Aflalo F.G. Behind The Ranges. Parentheses Of Martin Secker 1911 First Edition 284pp, 14 illusts, original green cloth, Aflalo's wide variety of travel 10382 £8 Travel. boards are slightly soiled and marked, experiences. worn spot on spine, G+. Ahluwalia Major Higher Than Everest. Memoirs of a Vikas Publishing 1973 First Edition 188pp, Fair in Fair dw. Autobiography of one of the world's 5743 £9 H.P.S. Mountaineer House most famous mountaineers. -
Historical Analysis and Notes on the Emergence of the Profession of Mountain Guide and Alpinism
Trakia Journal of Sciences, Vol. 18, Suppl. 1, pp 752-757, 2020 Copyright © 2020 Trakia University Available online at: http://www.uni-sz.bg ISSN 1313-3551 (online) doi:10.15547/tjs.2020.s.01.121 HISTORICAL ANALYSIS AND NOTES ON THE EMERGENCE OF THE PROFESSION OF MOUNTAIN GUIDE AND ALPINISM T. Dimitrov* Department of Sport, Sofia University, St. Kliment Ohridski”, Sofia, Bulgaria ABSTRACT In its essence, a man is a discoverer and researcher. His irresistible desire for knowledge gives birth to progress, and he the thirst to master the secrets of nature. The process of conquering the mountains is long and continuous. A major stage in the development of alpinism was the climbing of Mont Blanc in 1776 by the physician Michelle-Gabriel Pacar and the mountain shepherd and crystal collector Jacques Balma, who was also his guide during the climbing. With this significant climbing, only one stage of exploring the mountains ends. The importance of mountain guides, being professionals, for the development of alpinism, driven by the desires of their clients and scientific and educational purpose is huge. They lay the foundations of modern techniques and methods in alpinism, and create functional equipment for mountain climbing. Key words: guides, climbing methods, development of mountain sports. INTRODUCTION METHODS Alpinism, as a conscious and purposeful Hypothesis - Thanks to mountain guides, have activity of modern man, generated by interest any of the most significant climbs and peaks in and love for the mountains is a relatively new the world been climbed and do they make a phenomenon in human society, but the significant contribution to the development of conquest of the mountains out of necessity can alpinism and mountaineering in the world? be attributed to prehistoric times. -
Everest – South Col Route – 8848M the Highest Mountain in the World South Col Route from Nepal
Everest – South Col Route – 8848m The highest mountain in the world South Col Route from Nepal EXPEDITION OVERVIEW Join Adventure Peaks on their twelfth Mt Everest Expedition to the world’s highest mountain at 8848m (29,035ft). Our experience is amongst the best in the world, combined with a very high success rate. An ultimate objective in many climbers’ minds, the allure of the world’s highest summit provides a most compelling and challenging adventure. Where there is a will, we aim to provide a way. Director of Adventure Peaks Dave Pritt, an Everest summiteer, has a decade of experience on Everest and he is supported by Stu Peacock, a regular and very talented high altitude mountaineer who has led successful expeditions to both sides of Everest as well as becoming the first Britt to summit Everest three times on the North Side. The expedition is a professionally-led, non-guided expedition. We say non-guided because our leader and Sherpa team working with you will not be able to protect your every move and you must therefore be prepared to move between camps unsupervised. You will have an experienced leader who has previous experience of climbing at extreme high altitude together with the support of our very experienced Sherpa team, thus increasing your chance of success. Participation Statement Adventure Peaks recognises that climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement. Adventure Travel – Accuracy of Itinerary Although it is our intention to operate this itinerary as printed, it may be necessary to make some changes as a result of flight schedules, climatic conditions, limitations of infrastructure or other operational factors. -
Threading the Needle Skiing Lhotse's Dream Line
AAC Publications Threading the Needle Skiing Lhotse's Dream Line ON SEPTEMBER 30, at about 2 p.m., Jim Morrison and I pulled off our overboots, clicked into our ski bindings, and laboriously buckled our boots. Our oxygen masks were off, making every action at 27,940 feet, on the summit of Lhotse, extremely slow and difficult. I reached for my backpack, so much lighter now that my skis were on my feet, and swung it over my right shoulder, then slowly buckled the waist and chest straps. I slid my oxygen mask back over my face, stuck my right hand on the summit cornice, and soaked up the view one last time. Exactly four weeks earlier, on August 31, our team of four—Jim and I, along with photographers Dutch Simpson and Nick Kalisz—left the U.S. from various points and convened at the Kathmandu airport. Jim and I went straight from the hotel to the Nepal Ministry of Tourism to register for our expedition, pay garbage fees, meet our liaison officer, and finalize the two necessary permits for Lhotse: one for climbing and one for skiing back down. We took another full day to organize in Kathmandu before heading to the airport to fly into the Khumbu and begin our trek to base camp. Our goal for this expedition was simple: Jim and I wanted to ski the Lhotse Couloir from the summit in as pure a fashion as we could muster. Forming a super-direct narrow line from the upper Lhotse Face to the summit, the couloir was a dream line for skiing and the complete descent had been attempted several times. -
Catalogue 48: June 2013
Top of the World Books Catalogue 48: June 2013 Mountaineering Fiction. The story of the struggles of a Swiss guide in the French Alps. Neate X134. Pete Schoening Collection – Part 1 Habeler, Peter. The Lonely Victory: Mount Everest ‘78. 1979 Simon & We are most pleased to offer a number of items from the collection of American Schuster, NY, 1st, 8vo, pp.224, 23 color & 50 bw photos, map, white/blue mountaineer Pete Schoening (1927-2004). Pete is best remembered in boards; bookplate Ex Libris Pete Schoening & his name in pencil, dj w/ edge mountaineering circles for performing ‘The Belay’ during the dramatic descent wear, vg-, cloth vg+. #9709, $25.- of K2 by the Third American Karakoram Expedition in 1953. Pete’s heroics The first oxygenless ascent of Everest in 1978 with Messner. This is the US saved six men. However, Pete had many other mountain adventures, before and edition of ‘Everest: Impossible Victory’. Neate H01, SB H01, Yak H06. after K2, including: numerous climbs with Fred Beckey (1948-49), Mount Herrligkoffer, Karl. Nanga Parbat: The Killer Mountain. 1954 Knopf, NY, Saugstad (1st ascent, 1951), Mount Augusta (1st ascent) and King Peak (2nd & 1st, 8vo, pp.xx, 263, viii, 56 bw photos, 6 maps, appendices, blue cloth; book- 3rd ascents, 1952), Gasherburm I/Hidden Peak (1st ascent, 1958), McKinley plate Ex Libris Pete Schoening, dj spine faded, edge wear, vg, cloth bookplate, (1960), Mount Vinson (1st ascent, 1966), Pamirs (1974), Aconcagua (1995), vg. #9744, $35.- Kilimanjaro (1995), Everest (1996), not to mention countless climbs in the Summarizes the early attempts on Nanga Parbat from Mummery in 1895 and Pacific Northwest. -
The Final Ascent for Legendary Climber Jeff Lowe
Profile BY LISA MARSHALL THE FINAL ASCENT For decades, climber Jeff Lowe sought enlightenment by scaling rocks. A life- altering disease may have brought him a little closer to it. jeff lowe sits in silence on the second-floor patio of his two-bed- low on food, and delirious—as he waited out a storm. room apartment in Louisville and shifts uncomfortably in the early But death drew closest after Lowe quit climbing. He gave up September heat. He slouches in his wheelchair; sweat beads on his the sport in 2006 because of worsening balance and tingling limbs ashen forehead. Lowe looks frail after his most recent stay at Foothills that made his movements clumsy. Two years later, his doctor diag- Hospital’s Intensive Care Unit. I regret asking if we could conduct our nosed him with a rare neurological disorder called olivopontocer- interview outside, in the view of one of his former climbing haunts— ebellar atrophy and said he would likely be dead within two years. the Boulder Flatirons—and suggest we go indoors. The disease would shrink his cerebellum, ultimately ROCK SOLID Jeff Lowe in Ogden Valley, But Lowe remains singularly focused, typing on Utah (above); Lowe climbing at the Button shutting down his body’s motor functions, which are an iPad his answer to the question I asked several Creek Resevoir in Colorado. largely controlled by that part of the brain. Lowe minutes ago: “Are you afraid to die?” closed his climbing guiding business and film festi- It’s a question people have asked Lowe for decades. -
Annapurna-2013-Steck
ANNAPURNA 1, South face, Ueli Steck, 8-9 October 2013 By Rodolphe Popier FACTS EXAMINATION and ANALYSIS p4 1/ Objective indirect elements of proofs p4 11/ Lights: p4 Sherpas’ statements p4 Contradicting other members’ statements p5 12/ Tracks: p9 13/ Remnants of tracks found by second team on the route: p11 2/ Timings and conditions P12 21/ A 21st century speed ascent! P12 211/ A global lack of precision in the produced data p12 212/ A speed overview essay p16 213/ Comparative speeds of Steck with 2 other teams p19 22/ Atmospheric and mountain conditions comparison p21 3/ Accounts and contradictions p26 31/ A new official German version following the 2014 Piolet d’Or award p26 32/ 4 different summit accounts P27 33/ 2 versions for the camera’s loss: p29 First version: at 6700m at 15h? p29 Second version: 7000m, after having searched for a bivy spot at the foot of the headwall? P30 34/ A varying number of abseils p32 4/ Further miscellaneous points p35 41/ The SMS / Sat phone p35 42/ In an almost “Olympic shape” after 28 hours of climbing P36 43/ Headwall details discussed with Graziani & Benoist p37 One of the very few in-depth studies, unpublished in its entirety so far, about the climb of Ueli Steck was led by Andreas Kubin, former Chief Editor of Bergsteiger for 25 years. This study is primarily based on his work, checking again his own conclusions and completing it with my own findings. Eberhard Jurgalski originally suggested me to do that study. I didn’t contact Ueli Steck regarding any facts on Annapurna 1. -
Alpine Notes
320 ALPINE NOTES ALPINE NOTES (Compiled by D. F. 0. Dangar) PERSONAL. M. Armand Charlet, Herr Albert Eggler, and Mr. C. F. Meade have been elected Honorary Members of the Alpine Club. M. Charlet has recently retired after forty-seven years climbing as a , guide; in the course of his career he made nearly 3,ooo expeditions in the Alps, ninety-nine of them since becoming a grandfather! Mter twenty years' service he is not standing again for election as Mayor of Argentiere. Herr Albert Eggler is President of the Swiss Alpine Club and was leader of the successful Swiss Mount Everest expedition of I956. Mr. C. F. Meade is known for his Himalayan travels and particularly for his attempts on Kamet; to him is due the credit for discovering the only practicable route up the mountain and he was unlucky not to have reached the summit. In the Alps he made many expeditions including the first descent of the North-east an~te of the J ungfrau with Ulrich and Heinrich Fuhrer in I 903 eight years before the first ascent of the ridge. We congratulate Mr. A. E. Gunther on having been elected an Hono rary Member of the Club Andino Venenolano de Merida. ONE HuNDRED YEARS AGo. Although the first ascent of the Matter horn overshadowed all other achievements in I 86 5, several notable ascents were made in the course of the summer. A. W. Moore and Horace Walker broke away from contemporary practice by carrying out an extensive tour with only one guide, Jakob Anderegg.