Top RetailersThe in WebInside: Sales Pg. 13 STORES’ N.Y. PICKS/11 ALVIN VALLEY’S NEW LINE/12 WWD Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • September 13, 2007 • $2.00 WWDTHURSDAY List Sportswear Rosy Outlook Soft, serene and subtle. That’s the spring ticket for Donna Karan, who struck a ladylike tone on her runway with a pretty sportif collection that emphasized the waist. Case in point: this cinched sundress in linen gauze decorated with a rose. For more from New York, see pages 6 to 10.

Jacobs Blasts Back: Designer Tells Critics Shut Up or Stay Home

“Robert and I discussed this today and we were like, you know what, we don’t want to show here anymore.” — Marc Jacobs “Marc and I were up from Friday until Monday. Marc wasn’t drinking, he wasn’t doing drugs, he wasn’t at the Mercer Hotel having a cocktail while everybody was at the show waiting. He was with me backstage.” — Robert Duffy By Bridget Foley NEW YORK — Angry? Times two. After reading industry comments about their show’s late start in WWD on Wednesday and fielding questions about the widely circulated rumor that on Monday night, while his guests sat tapping their heels waiting for his show to begin, Marc Jacobs was in the Mercer Hotel restaurant or bar (depending upon the version), he and Robert Duffy placed separate calls See Marc, Page 10 PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION As the New York shows drew to a close, the leading collections were ™ Donna Karan, Tommy Hilfi ger, Anne Klein, Zac Posen and Tory Burch. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based 6 on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL Marc Jacobs and Robert Duffy defend the delay of their spring runway WORKING WARDROBES 1 show on Monday night. Tod’s SpA posted double-digit profi t growth in the fi rst half on a lower Performance Finishes Save Time, Money and Natural Resources 3 cost base and rising sales momentum for its handbags and shoes. These days, it seems as if everyone is working cleaning required. Throw it in the washer and dryer Neiman Marcus’ latest store opening Saturday at Natick Collection is a statement about the retailer’s strategic aim for luxury’s stratosphere. harder than ever and today’s washing machines and and you’re ready to go.” 3 dryers are no exception. Stricter standards for energy Three in five women tell the Monitor that they Target Corp. said late Wednesday that it is launching a review of efficiency, imposed by the Department of Energy note the laundering instructions before 3 “potential ownership alternatives” for its $7 billion credit card business. in January 2007, dictate that new they even buy a garment, A laundry list of salable trends on the New York runways for spring gave machines draw less from resources, thus making a strong case for the 11 retailers’ visions of cash registers going ka-ching. namely water and electricity, while future of these easy care perfor- Classifi ed Advertisements...... 15 efficiently and effectively washing and mance finishes, which offer sav- drying clothing and home fabrics. ings of time, money and natural To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. According to the Cotton resources. [email protected], using the individual’s name. Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™, In an effort to conserve all three, WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. female consumers launder clothing women are literally taking matters VOLUME 194, NO. 56. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one an average of three days per week. into their own hands. According to additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three additional issues in February, April, September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance However, with performance finishes the Monitor, in the second quarter Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by on many of today’s garments, women of 2007, a mere 6.5 percent of Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human just may have a solution for spending a female respondents said that they Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail time in the laundry room, less money would send a garment that required Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return on the cleaning process and making ironing to the drycleaners, down undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA less of an impact on the environment. from 9.3 percent making the same 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE Performance finishes offering claim in the same period in 2006. INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new wrinkle resistance and stain Even women with higher incomes subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production repellency are clearly gaining favor are increasingly caring for their correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, “Wrinkle resistant treatments, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other with women; two thirds of female particularly no-iron finishes, garments themselves; 82 percent of Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list respondents told the Monitor that women earning $75,000 or more available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. boast a beautiful cotton If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA they would pay more for a pair of hand and look perfect right claim that they ironed at home this 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, dress slacks and for a dress shirt year, up from 69 percent last year. OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, from the dryer.” BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED treated with a one of these benefits. — Michael Wohlfeld, “Many women don’t have the MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR On average, female respondents Foxcroft time to drop off their clothing at CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR said that they would pay premiums the dry cleaner or want to wait DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. of $13.86 for pants and $12.39 for for their garments to come back,” shirts offering these special features. observes Wohlfeld. “Orvis believes in producing products that offer “We’ve also found that our customer appreciates problem solving solutions and that is precisely that the pieces are eco-friendly due to the why we offer wrinkle resistant garments,” says elimination of pollution that may result from dry In Brief Kathy Gauthier, Vice President of Men’s and cleaning,” Sweeney from JCPenney adds. ● I’LL TAKE MANHATTAN: Trade show Moda Manhattan, which Women’s Sportswear, for the “Washing your own clothing runs Sunday through Tuesday, is for the first time offering a means you can choose the retailer. “We pride ourselves in How much more would you buyers’ wine and cheese reception on Monday, 6 to 7 p.m., at helping people.” pay for a special feature in: detergents and cleaners of your its two venues: the Metropolitan Pavilion, 125 West 18th Street, “Wrinkle resistant treatments, choice and many consumers and the Altman Building, 135 West 18th Street. The two build- particularly no-iron finishes, Total Females are opting for green products,” ings are adjacent and connected by an interior walkway so buy- ers can move between the show spaces. Business Journals pro- boast a beautiful cotton hand Dress Slacks $13.86 Gauthier from Orvis contends. Female respondents report duces the event, which showcases more than 450 ready-to-wear, and look perfect right from the Dress Shirt $12.39 sportswear and accessories lines. dryer,” says Michael Wohlfeld, using more than one laundry a spokesperson for Foxcroft, a detergent, according to the ● TAG EXPANDS: Telsey Advisory Group, an independent re- manufacturer of wrinkle resistant shirts sold at Monitor, and the main reasons include the vast variety search and consulting firm founded by veteran Wall Street retail Orvis. “They’re perfect for traveling because they in the average laundry basket, which can include analyst Dana Telsey, now has a national presence with the re- come out of the suitcase looking crisp and fresh.” delicates, whites, and colors and provide for different cent opening of offices in Boston and San Francisco. The compa- “Stain and wrinkle resistant career apparel is end users, like infants and children. ny, based in Manhattan, said Wednesday that the Boston office, at Two Liberty Square, is managed by Doug Pearl, and the San more than just a trend at JCPenney; it’s a lifestyle “The beauty of the wrinkle resistant product Francisco office, at One Market Street, is headed up by Keith and convenience issue for our customer,” says Liz is that it really doesn’t require much in the way Swart. “Opening offices in Boston and San Francisco establishes Sweeney, Executive Vice President of Women’s of thought when laundering and it always comes a national footprint for Telsey Advisory Group and gives us the Apparel. “Offering her career apparel that not out of the dryer in beautiful condition,” Gauthier ability to better service our clients,” said Telsey, chief executive only provides her style and quality at a smart price, adds. “It’s a guarantee and that’s why I only wear officer and chief research officer, in a statement. but also incorporates innovative technology that shirts with wrinkle resistance.” ● allows apparel to be easily laundered saves today’s Two in five women report to the Monitor that HOLT TO BUILD IN CALGARY: Holt Renfrew plans to build a 140,000-square-foot store in the Eaton Center in Calgary, busy woman time and money while providing her they would be extremely upset if they bought a Canada. Construction is to begin in the spring and the store stylish apparel that keeps her looking great.” pair of pants that promised to be wrinkle resistant is scheduled to open in spring 2009, replacing Holt’s 80,000- Demand for performance features and easy care and wrinkled when worn. square-foot store in the downtown area. The interior is being is so strong that The Limited launched The Perfect “Women have expectations about their wrinkle designed by the Janson Goldstein architecture firm of New Travel Suit. “The collection started simply enough resistant and no-iron garments,” Wohlfeld affirms. York, which also designed Holt’s expanded Bloor Street flag- last year, when we introduced the first version of the “And the products deliver.” ship in Toronto. Caryn Lerner, president and chief executive suit,” tells Scott Razek, Vice President of Marketing. Looking great while saving time, money and officer, said the retailer was expanding because of Calgary’s business growth and desire for more luxury brands. “We developed the fabrication and technology and, natural resources certainly lends itself to the term at the time, our offering was pretty basic. This year, we “working wardrobe”. transformed the offering into a true fashion collection This story is one in a series of articles based on find- with multiple color-ways, prints, plaids and textures, ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ and a number of fits. We also included several skirts to tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these Corrections create a truly complete ready to wear collection.” pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it The caption for the Roland Mouret photo on page 4 of the London Preview, section II, Tuesday, was incorrect. It should have read There is an upside to the laundering process, Razek relates to the American consumer and her attitudes RM by the designer Roland Mouret. adds. “The suit actually looks better and feels better and behavior regarding clothing, ● ● ● with each successive wash. The hand gets softer, appearance, fashion, fiber selection and Wal-Mart’s George ME collection is in stores for fall. A Wal-Mart the drape improves and there is absolutely no dry- many other timely, relevant subjects. spokeswoman said the line is in fewer doors and the company hasn’t announced plans to change its status. This was incorrect in a story on page one, Aug. 29. WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2007 3 WWD.COM

Neiman Marcus footwear. Tod’s Sees Profi ts Climb 18.5% By Amanda Kaiser MILAN — Tod’s SpA posted double-digit profit growth in the first half on a lower cost base and accelerating sales momentum for its handbags and shoes. Tod’s net profi t for the six months ended June 30 rose 18.5 percent to 34.8 million euros, or $42.8 million at average exchange rates for the period. Sales for the period rose 15.7 percent to 316.4 million euros, or $389.2 million, in line with preliminary fi gures released in July. Growth at constant exchange rates would have been 17.8 percent, the company said. Tod’s chairman and chief executive Diego Della Valle said the “strong success” of the Tod’s fabric Pashmy bag and the debut of newly tapped creative director Derek Lam’s fi rst Tod’s collection for fall 2007 make him optimistic about the future. He said the company is on track to post double-digit revenue and profi t growth for full-year 2007. “[The] fi rst-half results confi rm the solidity of our group’s growth and the effectiveness of Neiman Marcus’ children’s department. our medium-long-term strategic business plan,” Della Valle said in a statement. “Therefore, I can confi rm a sound double-digit growth of both revenues and profi ts.” First-half earnings before interest and taxes rose 14.7 percent to 58.2 million euros, or $71.6 million. The company said its operating profi t benefi ted as sales increased and its pro- portion of depreciation and amortization costs declined. The company said a strong euro bit into sales at the Tod’s brand, its most international label. Sales at Tod’s rose 6 percent to 174.1 million euros, or $214.1 million, but would have grown nine percent at constant exchange rates. Hogan and Fay, two brands with a largely European presence, fared better. Revenues at Hogan grew 25.7 percent to 94.8 million euros, or $116.6 million, while sales at Fay advanced 30.6 percent to 38.6 million euros, or $47.5 million. First-half sales at niche footwear brand Roger Vivier more than doubled to 7.1 million euros, or $8.7 million. In August, Tod’s ended franchising partnerships in South Korea and took over the control of seven stores in the country. It also opened a new boutique in Macao. The company’s distri- bution network currently includes 124 owned boutiques and 61 franchised stores. PHOTOS BY MEGHAN JONES PHOTOS BY Target Mulls Credit Biz Alternatives Art Meets Commerce arget Corp. said late Wednesday that it and integrated credit and retail guest experi- Tis launching a review of “potential own- ence,” said Bob Ulrich, chairman and chief ership alternatives” for its $7 billion credit executive offi cer of Target, in a statement. card business. The company will simultane- The review is expected to be done by the ously take a look at the use of debt in its end of December. Goldman Sachs was re- capital structure and its share repurchas- tained to assist Target. At New Neiman’s Unit ing practices. The evaluation of the company’s credit Target’s credit card portfolio includes cards will focus on the economics of other By Katherine Bowers products known as the “REDcards,” the ownership alternatives, according to the Target Visa Card and Target Credit Card, company. That will include evaluating the NATICK, Mass. — Neiman Marcus’ newest store, opening here on gift cards and other fi nancial services. Since differences in credit risk and growth rates Saturday, is an unequivocal statement about the retailer’s aim for lux- starting to offer credit cards 13 years ago, between a direct ownership model and other ury’s stratosphere. Target has grown to one of the largest credit structures. The review also will include an And it’s not based only on the $1.9 million drop earrings made from card issuers in the U.S. analysis of the cost of debt and equity capital teaspoon-sized Colombian emeralds, or the $26,000 Chanel ombré croco- “Going forward, we are committed to used to fund receivables and liquidity con- dile purse that is to go on sale at the opening gala Friday night. maintaining the highest brand standards siderations, the company said. An evaluation The 112,000-square-foot store, located about 20 miles west of Neiman for our fi nancial products and services, con- of the pace of share repurchases is also part Marcus’ downtown Boston unit, is an exercise in how to present mer- tinuing to invest in our outstanding fi nancial of the review. chandise in as close to a gallery setting as possible. services team and delivering an exceptional — Liza Casabona There are 138 pieces of original art commissioned from 13 New England artists. Accent rugs with contemporary geometrics were custom- designed to sit under mannequin groupings. And scattered throughout are props, such as blown glass bubbles, jewel-toned resin cylinders and huge cork drums, which Neiman’s visual team developed and scattered through the store to give merchandise a visual lift. Charles Jourdan Files for Bankruptcy The entire package is wrapped in an exterior facade of rippling metal — to conjure a fl uttering dress hem. By Katya Foreman Swiss holding company Finaluxe, hit its stride “We want to send a message’’ that a customer “doesn’t need to go into in the Seventies when its platform shoes be- the city to fi nd what she’s looking for in the suburbs,” store manager PARIS — Charles Jourdan, the troubled French came an integral accessory to the disco scene. Nancy Larson said of a merchandise mix that emphasizes emerging de- luxury footwear and accessories brand, has But staying alive has proved an ongoing strug- signers as much as stalwarts like St. John. filed for the French equivalent of Chapter 11 gle ever since. With competition from the region’s fi rst Nordstrom and other luxury bankruptcy protection, according to industry Marred by fi nancial troubles in 2002, which led boutiques opening in the same Natick Collection mall complex, Neiman sources. to the shuttering of several stores and the release Marcus is emphasizing what’s unique to its assortment, including a The fi rm’s factory, which employs 150 work- of one third of its workforce, the subsequent hir- $1,350 patent leather Dolce & Gabbana motorcycle jacket, and an Akris ers and is situated in Romans, France, report- ing of designers, namely Patrick Cox and Joseph St. Gallen embroidery and tulle dress. edly has been dormant for the past few weeks. Thimister, failed to bring the brand back into the Overall, there is surprisingly little merchandise overlap with A spokesperson for Charles Jourdan declined spotlight. Its latest collection, recently unveiled at Nordstrom, the Natick Collection’s other anchor. all comment. the Premiere Classe trade fair here, was designed The differentiation is indicative of Neiman’s “moving upward as our The storied house, owned since 2005 by by an in-house team. customers do,’’ Larson said. “The lack of overlap indicates [Nordstrom] knows who they are and we know who we are.” She declined to give revenue projections for the store. Natick Collection is Dallas-based Neiman’s 39th door, opening just days after the retailer celebrated its 100th birthday. Neiman Marcus op- erates a smaller store in Boston’s Copley Place mall. Coach’s Reed Krakoff in Stock Sale Here, with more room to spread out, Neiman Marcus is doing shop- in-shops for designer collections, a men’s made-to-measure room and a NEW YORK — Coach president and executive creative Reed children’s department, which is a regional fi rst. There is an emphasis director Reed Krakoff exercised more than $5.2 million Krakoff on emerging designers, such as Italian line 6267, and hot names: Sienna worth of stock options for use in home renovations, ac- and Savannah Miller’s Twenty8Twelve, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen’s cording to a Securities and Exchange Commission fil- Elizabeth and James, Vera Wang’s Lavender label, Tory Burch, 3.1 Phillip ing Wednesday. Lim and more. Dresses and contemporary sportswear take up 16,350 Krakoff said in the SEC fi ling that proceeds from the square feet of the second fl oor, while couture and eveningwear get 11,329 sale, net of income taxes, “will be used for major restora- square feet, the retailer said. tions to [his] primary residences in New York City and East Yet, a certain approachability is also emphasized. Nothing is stark, Hampton, N.Y.” The stock sale involved 116,935 shares. but the density of sheer stuff — mannequins, props, screens, accessories In October of last year, Krakoff’s East 70th Street town — increases noticeably in women’s apparel areas. house caught fi re. The house was in the midst of reno- “We intend to be warm and friendly — our customers have told vations, and no one was injured. Firefi ghters fought the us that’s important,’’ Larson said. “It’s meant to be a touch-and-feel blaze for nearly three hours. The fi re started at 2:36 a.m. environment.” 4 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2007 WWD.COM Last Call The fashion week party circuit came to a genteel and dignifi ed close Tuesday night when Francisco Costa held a postshow dinner at Wakiya. Loulou de la Falaise (who said she’s in town working on unnamed “projects”) and Bianca Jagger took a corner banquette, while Costa hid out in a booth with Julianne Moore and Kate Bosworth. “The last time I wore a suit was to the Oscars,” said Heath Ledger, who arrived with Helena Christensen, his party wingwoman this week. The actor wasn’t the only one who underwent an extreme makeover. Moore showed off her new blonde do, styled for her role in the upcoming fi lm “Blindness.” “I didn’t even recognize you,” cried Christensen upon seeing the actress. Amanda Brooks, Cecilia Dean, Lauren duPont and Kelly Klein supped on an Asian feast at the hot spot, although the restaurant’s lavish decor seemed to counter Calvin Klein’s Kelly Klein minimalist maxim. “Everyone has to have two sides,” added in Calvin Costa, who said he was relaxing for the fi rst time in weeks. Klein Earlier in the evening, designers and editors took a Collection. break between shows to stop by Bergdorf Goodman’s fete for Assouline’s “American Fashion” book, cohosted by the Council of Fashion Designers of America. Lazaro Hernandez popped in without his design partner, Jack McCollough (“His mom is leaving tomorrow [Wednesday], so he is having dinner with her,” Hernandez explained), while Carolina Herrera, Diane von Furstenberg, Peter Som, Derek Lam, Rachel Roy, Lars Nilsson Julianne Moore and Maria Cornejo took in the photo displays. in Calvin Klein But, given the long, busy week, it’s little surprise some Helena Collection with attendees’ minds were elsewhere. “I am going to Miami for Christensen Francisco Costa. two days to sit poolside,” said Thakoon Panichgul. “With in Calvin people on call 24-7.” Klein Collection. Cecilia Dean

Rachel Roy

Loulou de la Kate Falaise in her Bosworth Heath Ledger Lauren own design with in Calvin in Calvin Klein duPont in Bianca Jagger. Klein Collection. Thread Social Collection. and Renee Rockefeller in Calvin Klein Collection.

Lazaro HEARTBREAKER Hernandez ver the last few years, Michelle TWO FOR THE ROAD: Monaghan’s husband of two years, OMonaghan, a leggy Iowa native, Pete White, is a freelance graphic designer. “He can has amassed an impressive list of male just pick up his Mac, so we get to be together when co-stars on her roster, from Robert I’m working.” Downey Jr. and Matt Damon to Tom SWEET LIFE: “I love to bake. It’s really relaxing and Cruise. This fall, the 31-year-old adds I love the way the house smells. I make really good two more: Ben Stiller, her love interest cheesecake. The one thing that I can’t seem to manage in the Farrelly brothers’ comedy “The is a pavlova. My mother-in-law gave me the recipe, so I Heartbreak Kid,” and Casey Affleck, joke that she’s really got it in for me.” her partner in Ben Affleck’s directorial MODEL STUDENT: While studying journalism at Columbia debut, “Gone Baby Gone.” Though College Chicago, Monaghan took classes at night and the brunette actress always has held modeled during the day. “I totally enjoyed it, but it Amanda Brooks her own on-screen, she admits facing was a means to an end,” she says. After three years, in Calvin Klein Collection. off with Stiller was a challenge. Monaghan had a change of heart and moved to New “He’d improvise these hilarious York to model and act. scenes and my comebacks would PAPER DOLL: “The best part of promoting movies is Jim Gold and Peter Som be so not funny,” she recalls. “But getting dressed up for the red carpet,” she says. Off he somehow turns it around and duty, “you will never see me in shorts, but I love vintage makes it work.” sundresses. I have a lot from my grandmother.” ACTING INSOMNIAC: Ever the MUST-HAVE FOR FALL: Black patent leather Balenciaga Michelle devoted worker, Monaghan pumps. Monaghan in says: “It’s hard for me to UP NEXT: Monaghan just wrapped the romantic comedy J.Mendel. sleep at night when I am “Made of Honor” opposite Patrick Dempsey and is prepping for a role. I usually shooting the indie “Trucker,” for which she learned have a piece of paper and a to drive an 18-wheeler. “I was most surprised at the pen by my bed, and I write down notes perception that people have of female truckers. The in the dark.” ones I met with are incredibly bright and talented. GOTHAM GIRL: “I love living in New York They just love the open road and the freedom of being City. You can get, like, six errands done in on their own.” an hour, and throw in a mani-pedi, too.” — Marcy Medina CALVIN PARTY PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; BERGDORFS BY CHRISTIAN GRATTAN; MONAGHAN BY BENAROCH/SIPA MONAGHAN BY CHRISTIAN GRATTAN; STEVE EICHNER; BERGDORFS BY PHOTOS BY PARTY CALVIN WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2007 5 WWD.COM N.Y. Remembering Princess Grace Benetton Profi t Up 6.5% By Luisa Zargani fore interest and taxes grew 20.4 oday marks the 25th anniversary of the death percent to 107 million euros, or Tof Princess Grace, and New York plans to MILAN — A positive perfor- $141.2 million. pay tribute with a series of events next month. mance of the apparel division For 2007, the company ex- The many sides of the Philadelphia-born helped Benetton increase first- pects an improvement in sales blonde — movie star, Princess of Monaco, style- half profits by 6.5 percent to 69 compared with forecasts given setter, wife, mother and humanitarian — will million euros, or $91 million, in the spring, growing between 7 be shown in remembrances, including Saks Fifth compared with 65 million euros, and 9 percent, based on the per- Avenue store windows, a Sotheby’s exhibition, or $79.3 million, in the same pe- formance of the spring-summer the annual Princess Grace Awards Gala, a Wynn riod last year. 2007 collection and the orders for Resorts-backed benefi t casino night, radio inter- Well received clothing collec- the fall-winter season. EBITDA, views with her friends and never-before-seen pho- tions in the company’s directly calculated before non-recurring tographs that will be published in Town & Country operated and franchised stores items, is expected to show an in- magazine. Estée Lauder is developing a limited boosted sales of the Italian cloth- crease of more than 20 percent. edition lipstick in her honor that will be sold exclu- ing manufacturer, which grew 10.2 Investments in inventories sively at Saks’ fl agship and online starting Oct. 15. percent to 990 million euros, or due to a different segmentation The gala, “Grace, Princess of Monaco: A Tribute $1.3 billion, in the fi rst six months of collections, a higher number to the Life and Legacy of Grace Kelly” is being of 2007, compared with 898 mil- of directly operated stores and organized by the Consulate General of Monaco, lion euros, or $1 billion, in the expenses related to information the Monaco Government Tourist Office here, same period last year. Currency technology and to the increase in Sotheby’s, the Princely Palace and the Princess conversions were made at aver- production capacity of manufac- Grace Foundation-USA. Visitors to the Sotheby’s age exchange rates for the respec- turing hubs in Croatia, Tunisia exhibition, which runs from Oct. 15 to 26, can eye Princess Grace overlooking the harbor in Monaco. tive periods. and Italy weighed on Benetton’s dresses, jewelry, pho- be free and open to the public. In a statement issued debt. The company’s debt grew to tographs, letters, video The princess has a special tie to Sotheby’s Wednesday, the company attrib- 459 million euros, or $605.8 mil- and other items that vice chairman James Niven, whose father, the uted the growth mainly to a 13 lion, compared with 292 million have not been on view actor David Niven, befriended the young starlet percent hike in volumes com- euros, or $356.2 million, on June outside of Monaco. during her Hollywood days. When James Niven pared with the fi rst half of 2006, 30, 2006. The company said it ex- The Edith Head-de- was a young man living in France, Kelly took him noting it sold 74 million outfi ts in pects its investments in 2007 to signed blue satin col- under her wing and invited him to palace events. the fi rst six months of the year, total about 300 million euros, or umn dress and cloak “The pieces selected for this exhibition highlight and that a positive product mix $396 million, and its debt to reach that the former Grace her great beauty and style, for which she is well- helped counterbalance the im- 450 million euros, or $594 million, Kelly wore when she known, and her personal letters and correspon- pact of currency conversions. by the end of the year. picked up the Best dence show that she was open, friendly, interest- Earlier this year, the com- Benetton said its board has Actress Oscar at the ing and had a great sense of humor,” he said. pany said the United Colors of resolved to file a request to 1955 Academy Awards, Prince Albert, Princess Caroline and her hus- Benetton brands for adults and delist and deregister the com- her engagement ring band, Prince Ernst of Hanover, will be on hand Oct. children and the more fash- pany from the New York Stock with the 10.47 carat 25, when Larry King emcees the Princess Grace ion-forward Sisley collection Exchange. The statement said emerald-cut diamond Awards at Sotheby’s. The previous evening the auc- had shown “accelerated” sales. “the decision was made in light and a leather version tion house will be transformed into a high-stakes Benetton has also focused on an of the globalization process of the rectangular croc- casino to benefi t the Princess Grace Foundation- overhaul of the Playlife active- within the fi nancial markets and odile Hermès bag she USA. Final bidding for the outfi ts, to be displayed wear label into a more casual of the internationalization of the used to conceal her in Saks’ windows, will be held at that time. clothing line, and on the fine- Italian Stock Exchange.” pregnancy in a 1958 From Oct. 22 to 26, Saks will showcase Princess tuning of its innerwear brand, It also said the company took edition of Life maga- Grace-inspired outfi ts created by American de- Undercolors. According to the into account the fact that vol- zine — which inadver- signers, and window shoppers will be able to bid company, both projects have been umes traded in New York are tently led to it being on the pieces through a silent auction. Others welcomed by the market. limited, and that main American known as the Kelly Bag can get a taste for the principality by sampling In the fi rst half, earnings be- shareholders trade shares mostly DRESS PHOTO COURTESY SOTHEBY’S; HARBOR COURTESY OF THE PRINCIPALITY OF MONACO OF THE PRINCIPALITY HARBOR COURTESY SOTHEBY’S; DRESS PHOTO COURTESY — will be exhibited in Monégasque cuisine prepared in part by Sylvain fore interest, taxes, deprecia- on the Italian Stock Exchange. A dress Grace Kelly wore in the Manhattan auction Etievant of Hôtel de Paris’ Le Grill restaurant. tion and amortization rose 14.8 Benetton said the delisting will “High Society.” house. The show will — Rosemary Feitelberg percent to 151 million euros, not affect the company’s business or $199.3 million. Earnings be- strategy in the U.S. LVMH Taps Semerari to Head Sephora Europe

PARIS — Changes are afoot at in advertising at the Havas sole shareholder, Silvio Denz, Swiss francs, or $9.5 million. LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Group. He earned his degree is selling up to one million of Its operating revenues, which Vuitton here. from Rouen Business School. his fi ve million shares in the include sales and other regu- The French luxury giant an- Sephora, with 671 doors company at a unit price of 20 lar income, hit 40 million Swiss nounced Wednesday that Renato worldwide as of June 30, up Swiss francs to 23 Swiss francs, francs, or $33.8 million. Semerari, president and chief 16.5 percent versus the same or $16.90 to $19.43 at current ex- — Brid Costello executive officer of Guerlain, prior-year period, is growing at change. That equates to a mar- will become president and ceo a robust pace. In the fi rst half of ket capitalization of between of Sephora Europe starting Oct. this year, it 100 mil- CEO Shift at Selective 1. In his new post, Semerari is completed lion Swiss to report to Jacques Levy, presi- 18 openings francs and PARIS — Selective Beauty, the fra- dent and ceo of Sephora. in Europe, 115 mil- grance manufacturer and distrib- Until now, as part of his job, bringing its BEAUTY BEAT lion Swiss utor based here, has made some Levy had overseen the perfum- total store francs, or top-level management changes. ery chain’s European business. count there to 485. $84.5 million and $97.1 million. Christophe Cervasel, a com- Replacing Semerari at Also in the fi rst half, Guerlain Art & Fragrance owns the pany co-founder and chief ex- Guerlain on Oct. 1 will be Laurent continued improving its prof- Parfums Alain Delon, Parfums ecutive offi cer, has been named Boillot, general manager of the itability while increasing its Grès and Ultrasun brands, as chairman of Selective Beauty beauty brand. In his new role, media investments, according well as the license for Jaguar Corp., a fully owned affi liate of Boillot is to report to LVMH group Renato to LVMH. The company said the Fragrances. Selective Beauty, based in New managing director Toni Belloni. Semerari brand’s profit from recurring “The aim of the fl otation on York and started one year ago. “We are happy to see two tal- operations recorded a new and the Berne stock exchange is to A new ceo based in Paris ented managers take additional Dior, where he was internation- major increase. broaden our ownership struc- will be recruited and report responsibility within the group,” al marketing director, starting — Jennifer Weil ture and increase our visibil- to Corrado Brondi, a company said Belloni in a statement. in 1999. Before that, Semerari ity,” said Denz in a statement. co-founder and president of “Renato has led the remarkable served as marketing director for “We are pursuing an ambitious Selective Beauty. Until the ceo is renaissance of Guerlain over Southern Europe for Procter & growth strategy, the aim of named, Hervé Lesieur has taken the last fi ve years. His leader- Gamble Co., beginning in 1986. Art & Fragrance IPO Set which is not only to exploit the the role of Selective Beauty’s ship and beauty expertise are a Semerari received a degree in potential of our brand portfolio executive chairman. He was meaningful reinforcement of our business administration from LONDON — Art & Fragrance SA more fully, but also to acquire formerly president of Shiseido- capabilities to support Sephora’s the University of Rome. is going public. additional brands and take on owned Decléor and Carita, ambitious plans. Laurent has Boillot joined Guerlain in The Zollikerberg, strategic holdings. As a listed and has been a shareholder in been his right arm over these 2002 as its marketing direc- Switzerland-based fragrance company, we will create addi- Selective Beauty for one year. years. He has the skills and inti- tor. Starting in 1999, he was at and cosmetics manufacturer tional transparency and there- Once a ceo is signed on, mate knowledge of the brand to Unilever, where his last post plans to make its debut on fore raise confi dence among ex- Cervasel will also become a bring Guerlain to new heights.” was marketing director of the the Berne stock exchange on isting and new partners.” member of Selective Beauty’s Prior to Guerlain, Semerari European hair care category. Wednesday. In 2006, Art & Fragrance gen- advisory board. worked at Parfums Christian Boillot began his career in 1988 The company’s founder and erated net profi ts of 11.2 million — J.W. 6 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2007 Donna Karan Luck Be a Donna Karan Designers such as Donna Karan, Tommy Hilfi ger and Isabel Toledo at Anne Klein were conjuring up feminine, ladylike looks, often mixing them with the sportif.

NEW YORK spring ’08

Donna Karan

Donna Karan: Donna Karan in Havana — sounds like a steamy trip. But these days, it seems, satiating her ever-deepening yen for urban Zen is Karan’s primary inspiration, even when she’s working a motif with cha-cha-cha potential. On Wednesday it made for a lovely collection, though one in which serene sometimes knocked at snooze’s door. The show was all about ladifi ed sportif à la the cinch-waist, full-skirted dress. These came in shirt shapes and halters, both soft and crisp, but invariably neutral — beige, brown, khaki, gray. Peculiarly, Karan referred to the palette as passionate, although she was associating passion with the organic look of some of the clothes, especially those belted in a wide slice of raffi a or a skirt with a deep cork border. Karan diversifi ed the dominant silhouette by working in crocheted lace or adding embroideries or sheer horizontal strips into a skirt. And she gave a nod to sportswear with trim jackets and some appealingly demonstrative denims, including a skirt with huge side pockets worn with a red puff-sleeved shirt, for a rare and welcomed shot of color. For evening, Karan’s beloved goddesses returned, this time decked out in a series of colorless jersey gowns, spare beauties that let a woman’s body do the talking. WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2007 7 WWD.COM Lady Tommy Hilfi ger Anne Klein

Tommy Hilfi ger: He’s done rock ’n’ roll. He’s done casual, visible-boxer-shorts prep. Now, Tommy Hilfi ger is applying a thick coat of polish to his collection. “It’s about clothes becoming more refi ned, grown-up and sophisticated,” he explained backstage preshow. “It’s about this woman who is no longer a teen and who is self-assured and confi dent.” The question of direction has been a frequent one over the years, and Hilfi ger knows a crystal-clear message is essential. To that end, the lineup of all-American classics with a keen country club quality made his point. There were classic khaki trenches and cotton twill skirts, a pink-and- white cabana-stripe silk georgette dress and lots of red, white and blue on blazers, silk blouses and cropped pants. It was a fi ne collection, simple and serviceable. In fact, the only out-there pieces were for men, as in pale pink blazers and short pants embroidered with sea horses, which, with the exception of hip-hop super-preps like Kanye West, should be worn to sports bars with caution.

Anne Klein: Modernize an American classic that’s been off the radar for while — that’s a tall order, one that Isabel Toledo began to wrestle with last season in a rocky debut. Spring, however, was a marked improvement as she focused on dresses of all manner and inspirations. For instance, when her husband, Ruben, accidently smeared paint on her dress, Toledo saw the possibility of art and something stylish in it. Thus the opening white frock smattered with multicolored pixels. From there, she mixed it up, but always with a feminine touch: fresh, striped numbers nipped at the waist; a pair of shiny silver looks, and swingy draped jerseys. But she saved the best for last, sending out a group of cheerful frocks featuring hand- painted fl owers on crinkled silk that had a slightly bohemian fl air. But a label makeover takes time, so a few bumps are to be expected. Hers came when Tommy she let things get too dark and heavy, as with a trio Hilfi ger of black lace looks that didn’t look nearly as spring-

worthy as the rest. MITRA THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2007

And that’s all, folks. The New York collections signed off with a shot of youthful feminism, à la playful frocks, ruffl ed gowns Sweet and snappy combos. Somethings Zac Posen Zac Posen NEW YORK spring ’08

Angel Sanchez

Tory Burch

Zac Posen: Simple Shakers and early American settlers seemed drawstring fishing jacket to the marina; pretty, embellished tunics an improbable inspiration for Zac Posen, a designer known for his to Saint-Tropez, and a paperweight chiffon dress with paillettes undying love of over-the-top runway theatrics and sexy siren gowns. to cocktail hour in Palm Springs. None of the highly decorated It’s not that Posen is incapable of doing simple. The show-opening looks — jeweled necklines, busy prints and embroideries were tailored looks — vaguely safari pants and jackets, and a long black many — was a stretch for Burch. But considering the meteoric sleeveless jacket — were smart, modern and controlled. And there retail ascent of her three-year-old collection, it doesn’t need a were graceful pairings of the unfettered and his signature dramatic makeover. The news here was accessories: jewelry done, as Burch frills, such as a trim, cropped jacket worn with a white skirt that fell said, “in a bigger way,” meaning giant geometric bib necklaces, in a cascade of ribbon candy-shaped ruffl es. Posen used undulating and oversize straw totes and canvas bowling bags trimmed in effect throughout on blouses, long skirts and the cavalcade of bright patent leather. And those metallic thongs and gladiators accented evening gowns that, come award season, undoubtedly will make for with logo disks may just be the open-toe answer to her ubiquitous memorable red-carpet moments. But at times, he took the Shaker ballet-flat bestseller. theme to an earnest extreme, as in a blouse with a giant pilgrim collar and a dress that, laser-cut to resemble wheat, looked like L’Wren Scott: Once again, L’Wren Scott hosted an intimate and a belted sheaf. That said, Posen is no Puritan. In fact, a lack of highly civilized luncheon to present her spring collection, this restraint is his biggest problem, and his greatest indulgence is the time at the Gagosian Gallery. What a breath of fresh air on the last big, splashy fi nish. This time he took a sky’s-the-limit approach to it: day of this relentless show schedule. Here were the clothes that Five models simultaneously skulked the runway in cloud-like gowns Scott wants her friends to wear, not a collection with commercial intended to depict weather patterns — serene, nimbus, cyclone, ambitions. Pal Ellen Barkin and the designer’s paramour, Mick cumulus and cirrus, as they were called in the show notes — and a Jagger, were among the guests who watched models — as lean and sunrise or sunset print. It was more like the twilight zone. leggy as Scott herself — wear the skinniest pants or jeans with ankle-length coats and sizzling curvaceous jersey sheaths, both Tory Burch: Tory Burch has the preppy-meets-bohemian jet- long and short. The designer has a funky way of mixing up her setter down pat. For spring, she’ll wear a tomboy-chic kelly green wares — this time in a teal and black palette — like the pleated WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2007 9 WWD.COM

Kathryn Scully

Academy of Art University: For its latest showcase at the tents, the San Francisco-based fashion school presented capsule collections from 10 of its top fashion, knitwear and textile design graduates. Highlights included the androgynous suiting in coated white linen by Tara Shannahan, and beachy knits inspired by designer Kathryn Scully’s childhood vacations in Cape May, N.J. Haa Cheng Thai’s inventive laser-cut and folded dresses worked well in their moody hues, while the sometimes-kooky Heatherette patchwork and layered looks from Yi-Ting “Maxim” Lee were unique Justsweet takes on Japanese manga. For her second foray onto the New York runway, Kyung Min Kim’s simple shapes proved an ideal canvas for her quirky textiles featuring princesses, horses and castles.

Tara Shannahan

L’Wren Scott Naeem Khan

PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, JIMI CELESTE, STEVE EICHNER AND GIOVANNI GIANNONI GEORGE CHINSEE, JIMI CELESTE, STEVE EICHNER AND GIOVANNI JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY Kyung Min chiffon capes or tiered jackets tossed over those slim dresses, or Heatherette: There’s Americana and then there’s Heatherette’s Kim that knockout sequined teal cardigan and stark sheath. version of it. Richie Rich and Traver Rains’ send-up of the U.S. of A. — on 9/11, no less — was a delightful high-energy romp Naeem Khan: Naeem Khan’s collection was all about beautiful through the theme, complete with an opening performance clothes and exquisite embroidery. With just the switch from by hip-hop artist Lil Mama. And this time, it wasn’t all over- stilettos to sandals, Khan gave even the glitziest innovations a the-top camp. Sure, the duo sent out their share of wacky young charm — the silver leather tribal-cut minidresses being red, white and blue getups trimmed, appliquéd, feathered, perfect examples. Khan’s Indian roots were refl ected in all the patchworked and embellished to the hilt, but there was some elaborately beaded dresses, embroidered caftans and tunics, chic — and no less whimsical — merch there, too. Case in and the glorious nude chiffon gowns trimmed in gold paillettes point: the picnic-table-print halter dress amusingly dotted with or accented with jewel-maharani necklines. While the colorful trompe l’oeil ants. Bombay-inspired lineup looked like a celebration, not a single glittery piece seemed overdone. Justsweet: Only Jennifer Lopez could stage a runway show for a junior line with all the pomp and circumstance of a usual Angel Sanchez: Angel Sanchez, whose collections are often fashion-week gig. The question is whether a collection that about evening glamour and glitz, delivered some surprisingly wasn’t directional warranted such treatment. Perhaps not. simple, but nonetheless beautiful, looks for spring. The very But many likely will be won over by the prices — all items best were geometric, knee-hovering sheaths: strapless in white retail for less than $99. There were certainly plenty of pieces silk canvas with satin chevron accents, cap-sleeved in ivory to pick from. Lopez and head designer Sophie Na addressed silk with square leather appliqués and an Empire slip with an every chick clique out there with cute offerings that ranged angled bodice. For night, Sanchez played with sporty shapes from bejeweled Sixties-inspired frocks and denim jumpsuits with a touch of glitter, i.e. a black silk faille short jumpsuit to vinyl bombers and ikat-printed blouses. However, much of belted in black crystals. As for the gowns, the loveliest one was a it is similar to that of high street chains, right down to those raspberry silk chiffon number with a pleated bodice. message T-shirts. 10 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2007 WWD.COM Marc to Critics: Shut Up or Stay Home Continued from page one Duffy struck a more conciliatory tone. He said that when Jacobs called him on to this paper to respond. Jacobs was primarily concerned with the lateness contre- Wednesday to suggest a shift to Paris, he was open to the thought, “because people temps, while Duffy, president of Marc Jacobs International, wanted to address the here just don’t appreciate us.” The transition would be an easy one because of the still-widening Mercer rumor. Louis Vuitton connection, where Jacobs is that company’s creative director. “But “I know that Marc didn’t leave the showroom until 8 [on Monday night],” Duffy then you take Marc Jacobs, which is an American company, and show it in Paris to said. “He called me up and said, ‘I have to go back home [the Mercer Hotel] and take make it easier? That’s the wrong thing to do because you feel that you’re not support- a shower.’ He was [at the Armory] at 8:30 for the rehearsal. So when all these people ing the American fashion industry.…We are so proud to be in American fashion. We started calling me and telling me he was at the bar at the Mercer at 9:30 or 10, that’s are proud to do the quality of work we do. We’re proud of the presentations we do, ridiculous. I was with him.” and there are certain people who appreciate it and Jacobs offered a similar account, if more colorfully we love that. stated. “That is bullshit! That is bullshit!” he retorted. Marc Jacobs backstage at “We really do want to be a part of this community,” “I was at the f---ing offi ce until the last fi tting was over. his show Monday night. Duffy continued. “We really don’t want to inconve- I came back to the hotel — I hadn’t been here in three nience anybody. We’re sorry. It wasn’t intentional, it days! I hadn’t showered in three days! I slept on the wasn’t a ‘f--k you’ or anything other than we were try- couch in my offi ce for 20 minutes three nights in a row ing to do the best work for these people.” — anyone at my offi ce will tell you that. I got 20 minutes Jacobs has long had a rocky relationship with the sleep Friday night, Saturday night, Sunday night. The CFDA and the spring dates are among the issues that fi rst shower I had was Monday at 8 before the rehearsal have rekindled the antagonism. He charged that a of our show. I did not have lunch, I did not have drinks, key champion behind the shift was Suzy Menkes, who I did not have tea at the Mercer, I walked through the wanted to get back to Europe in time for the Jewish lobby; I live in this hotel. I hadn’t been there — ask the holiday, and that the CFDA caved to her pressure. reception at the hotel. When they saw me on Monday, (Diane von Furstenberg has said that serious pres- they were like, ‘We haven’t seen you in days.’ I lived in sure was exerted from various sources, including my offi ce for three days in a row.…My boyfriend was retailers.) When asked about Jacobs’ delay, Menkes downstairs having dinner. I wasn’t. I was at the rehears- told WWD, “I would like to murder him with my bare al, I was at the offi ce until the last minute. I took 20 hands and never see another Marc Jacobs show in my minutes to shower and shave — I stank like a raccoon! entire life,” and in Wednesday’s International Herald I could not go to the show like that.” Tribune she delivered a scathing review in which The notoriously late starts of Jacobs’ shows have be- she referred to the collection as “a freak’s costume come something of an industry legend, and the source party.” She also accused Jacobs of pilfering not only of considerable frustration and anger among many au- from Rei Kawakubo and Martin Margiela, whom he dience members. But though apologetic, Jacobs and has oft sighted as inspirations, but his LVMH compa- Duffy are not in a groveling mood. They noted the dif- triot John Galliano as well. fi culties in staging three New York shows in short order Jacobs, in turn, accused Menkes of transferring — Marc Jacobs, Marc by Marc Jacobs and men’s Marc by her wrath over the late start to her review. “I’ve Marc Jacobs — especially while continuing to up their never denied how infl uenced I am by Margiela, by production aspects, as with the Charles Atlas fi lm that Rei Kawakubo, those are people that inspire my was shot on Sunday night and screened at the collec- work; I don’t hide that. For her to turn this into this tion show on Monday. They noted, too, that scheduling hate fest for me and my collection I think is ridicu- this season around Rosh Hashanah brought particular lous.…I expect people, whether we’re two hours late challenges beyond their power to control. Meanwhile, or two hours early or we don’t show at all, to look at Jacobs, typically neither a complainer nor a braggart, what they see: the clothes. Of course there are com- expressed what everyone here knows — that he brings parisons to other things. I’m a designer living in this something special to New York Fashion Week. world who loves fashion…I’m attentive to what’s “I’m responding to what was written in Women’s going on in fashion, I’m infl uenced by fashion, that’s Wear,” he said, “all those people saying, ‘We have fami- the way it is. I have never ever hidden it. I have never lies,’ ‘We have families,’ ‘We have families.’ Talk to my insisted on my own creativity, as Chanel would say. I sample room. Talk to the 60 women who didn’t see their have my interpretation of ideas I fi nd very strong. Jil families for six weeks. Sander is infl uenced by Comme des Garçons, Miuccia “I’m very sorry that I inconvenienced anyone by Prada is infl uenced by Comme des Garçons, every- having a show two hours late,” he continued. “I really, one is infl uenced by Comme des Garçons, Martin really am, and so is Robert. We’re all very upset that ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY Margiela. Anybody who’s aware of what life is in a people got their noses bent out of joint. But I think this contemporary world is infl uenced by those designers. is so unfair. We do a huge production show, we try to She [Menkes] wants to observe a Jewish holiday, but give fashion and do a major fashion show in New York. You have a family? OK, well that’s I start a show two hours late [and] she gets her nose I have no say in the show schedule, the show schedule “ bent out of shape.” has been moved up a week, and another week, and as nice, I don’t, and I work. So leave me “We respect the Jewish holidays,” Duffy said, while far as I’m concerned we showed two weeks early not explaining that the rest of the supply chain wasn’t nec- two hours late. alone and don’t come to the show essarily on board. “The factories in Italy didn’t agree “Another thing, everybody talks about these fami- to open earlier.” lies they have to go home to. I mean, every person who next time. And while the Italians were at the beach, Jacobs works in every factory in Italy, and every person who was in the studio. “I work my ass off,” he said. “I don’t works in our sample room, they didn’t see their fam- ” — Marc Jacobs take vacations, I don’t have homes all over the world, ilies for six weeks so that we could do this show two I don’t ride horses: I f---ing work for a living. Again, weeks early. So I’m really appalled that people have absolutely no perception of what like this idea, you have a family? OK, well that’s nice, I don’t, and I work. So leave me it takes to do things. And when we complain about the show schedule our voice is not alone and don’t come to the show next time.” heard, nobody does anything about it, the CFDA does me absolutely no service what- Or at least keep your outrage to yourself. Jacobs and Duffy say they couldn’t be soever as an American fashion designer.” happier with the state of their business, particularly its recent creative roll that had Jacobs said he is seriously considering taking his Marc Jacobs show to London or its most recent expression in that remarkable show on Monday night. “I’m actually Paris. “I don’t really feel a part of the American fashion community,” he said. “I re- as happy as I could possibly be,” Jacobs said. “I think I did a great job. I love what ally feel like an outsider, I think we all do, and we feel unloved here, so we want to go I did.” somewhere else.” — With contributions from Marc Karimzadeh

Sporting a bright green justsweet minidress of her own row is not as meaningful as it was in years past, because it has design, Lopez also pointed out her bracelets, which were also been overdone,” Hilfi ger admitted. “We just wanted people justsweet. The massive diamond ring, though, was defi nitely who actually wear and like our clothes.” That would mean the Fashion Scoops not justsweet. likes of Emmy Rossum, Diane Kruger, Serena Williams, Rosario “This is my wedding ring, but I am pretty sure I can make Dawson and Michelle Rodriguez, while pop star Mya perched on BABY BUMP?: Could Jennifer Lopez have been trying to hide you something that looks just like it for $49,” she joked. a small slab of bench on the other side of the runway. Rossum a little bump on Tuesday night? The actress-pop star sat was in town to celebrate her 21st birthday with a small dinner in a chair, dressed in a loosely HOME SWEET HOME: Although they are no longer involved in for friends. “I’m legal,” she squealed. fi tted dress backstage as reporters the company, several of Tommy Hilfi ger’s former partners came interviewed her before her justsweet out to cheer on the designer at his fashion show Wednesday. LUNCH BUNCH: Hedi Slimane may have parted ways with show. When it was time to take her In fact, when Hilfi ger took his bow, he stopped to give a hug to Dior Homme, but he still has friends in very high places. bow, it was fairly evident Lopez may former chairman Silas Chou, now an owner of Michael Kors. Joel On Wednesday, Slimane was spotted having lunch at the have been trying to hide a much- Horowitz, former chief executive offi cer, attended the show with Bristol hotel in Paris with none other than French President gossiped-about pregnancy. As for his wife, Ann. Nicolas Sarkozy. Dressed in skintight black jeans, Slimane justsweet’s spring collection, which Horowitz said he’s enjoying his retirement and married was also joined by his former colleague, Dior’s fi ne jewelry just launched at retail for back-to- off his daughter last weekend at their Montauk, N.Y., home. designer Victoire de Castellane; French Vogue’s fashion director school, Lopez couldn’t wait to show Another one of his homes, a 38,000-square-foot, nine- Emmanuelle Alt, and Castellane’s sister, Mathilde Agostinelli, the line. “What I love most about bedroom compound in Lake Tahoe, was recently featured in who works in Prada’s public relations offi ce and is close this collection is the bright, girly Jennifer Lopez The Wall Street Journal as being for sale for $100 million. friends of the First Couple. While the group sat at a discreet colors,” she said. “And everything takes her bow “Know anybody?” asked Horowitz. table tucked beside the lobby bar, the fashionable lunch is between $49 and $99. How at justsweet. Meanwhile, staff were scrambling to empty front-row seats crowd stayed glued to their seats until Sarkozy got up to leave, great is that?” GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTOS BY to make room for the starlets. “Putting celebrities in the front security squad in tow. Who said fashion and politics don’t mix? WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2007 11 WWD.COM Retailers Charmed by Color in N.Y.

By Sharon Edelson runway shows was treated like a woman’s closet with all Rag & Bone’s new slimmer-cropped pant. Diane von the sensible pieces, the ethnicity and the artistry. Furstenberg delivered exactly what you would expect laundry list of salable trends on the New York run- Dislikes: I didn’t like waiting for shows. It shows disre- from her — beautiful, feminine, inspired, happy, feel-good Aways for spring gave retailers’ visions of cash regis- spect not to start the shows almost on time. clothes — that you would bring on a fabulous vacation. ters going ka-ching. Spring must-haves: Tribal-print dresses; sherbet colors; A Pantone wheel of colors and a variety of prints Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director safari-inspired; softer suiting. from ikats to fl orals will drive sales, they predicted, as at Neiman Marcus Young designers: Katy Rodriguez is the vintage queen, will longer day dresses to replace shorter ones in con- What’s new?: The message I’m most excited about is but we love her collection. I’m looking forward to seeing sumers’ closets and cropped or long jackets. that we’re seeing more shape in fashion. The dress is Daryl K’s new line, Kerrigan. Heather Schiff ’s jewelry But some store executives bemoaned they saw little on moving closer to the body and the long length for day is and accessories line from India and Ileana Makri’s new the runways to move fashion forward. It’s the old argu- looking really new. symbol collection of jewelry are fabulous. ment of fashion with a capital F versus a more commer- Favorite collections: I was charmed by Oscar de la cial form. Not surprisingly, the collections that injected Renta. He had all the right notes of the season, such as Jennifer Wheeler, vice president of fashion direction at some of the former into the latter were the most popular. multicultural references and ikat prints. I loved Vera Nordstrom Even if watching many of the shows brought a sense of Wang’s subtle draping and twisting of fabrics. Marchesa Rate the week: It was a successful fashion week. The most déjà vu to some, most agreed fall trends translated into sent out one beautiful gown after another and the girls exciting thing for us was all the amazing colors that we lighter fabrics looked fresh. “It’s not a huge shift in direc- at Rodarte had a beautiful collection that was much saw. It was so refreshing to see the Crayola brights and the tion from fall,” said Jennifer Wheeler, vice president of more rooted in the reality of a woman’s wardrobe. balance of clear pastels and pale grays and mushrooms. designer apparel at Nordstrom. “But [customers] haven’t Michael Kors had a great show and Phillip Lim truly Favorite shows: I loved Oscar de la Renta’s bold ethnic seen this in lighter fabrics and spring iterations.” understands how women want to dress. Thakoon hit all prints and incredible saturated colors for evening. Zac Here’s what retailers had to say about New York the right notes with blue ikats and a wood fl oral print. Posen was really amazing. We liked the evolution we saw Fashion Week, which closed Wednesday. Doo.Ri did a beautiful job with jersey and beautiful at Rodarte, their artisan hand. Anne Klein had these in- feminine pieces that looked like they were inspired by credible hand-painted crinkled silk dresses, which are a Stephanie Solomon, vice president of fashion direction underpinnings. signature of [designer Toledo’s] personal wardrobe. at Bloomingdale’s Young designers: I loved Chris Benz’s presentation and What’s new?: Metallics have been so prominent and it Rate the week: It was an excellent week of fresh and use of color. I can’t tell you if we’re picking him up yet. I was nice to see shine interpreted in a new way with all trend-right collections, punctuated by strong, happy col- was very enchanted by Jeremy Laing, he’s someone I’m the charmeuse. ors, bold prints and stripes. going to be paying attention to, as well. Marc meter: I’d never miss the Marc Jacobs show. A Favorite collections: Ralph Lauren still rules American Marc meter: I’m a Marc fan, controversial chaos aside. Marc show is always worth the wait. When we arrived sportswear — his bright yellow trenchcoat is a standout His show was a gold mine of ideas that we’ll see for we were told it was running late, so we left for a little — and Donna Karan had a magnifi cent return to her years to come. It was one of those fashion moments. At while. It was late. It was late. roots with great silhouettes. [Marc Jacobs] raises the bar. the end of the day — and it literally was the end of the I loved his color palette, his sensual printed dresses and day — I was happy that I was there. I was exhilarated by Lavelle Olexa, senior vice president of advertising, sales his football jerseys. Also, Michael Kors’ striped dresses, what I saw on the runway. promotion and public relations at Lord & Taylor tunics and beaded shirtdress; Zac Posen’s evening dress- Rate the week: The color palette in general was quite es with ruffl es and organza gowns in brilliant colors, and beautiful, particularly the pale and sand colorations Chris Benz for celebrating color, along with Diane von and neutrals. We’ve had plenty of brights in the past, so Furstenberg’s bold fl orals, maxi- and shirtdresses, and Michael this was a fresh and pretty approach. Lyn Devon’s sleek and sophisticated sensibility. Kors What’s new?: We also thought there was a much more polished look to fashion overall, which will be very good Linda Fargo, senior vice president and fashion director for our customers, and a lot of waist emphasis, which at Bergdorf Goodman is great for accessories. The number-one accessory for Rate the week: The American collections looked quint- spring should be the belt. essentially…American! Other key trends: Wide-leg pants, pencil skirts, lon- What’s new?: Far-fl ung travels, Green Movement, great ger lengths with high heels, platforms and slingbacks, ethnic prints on natural fabrics and safari wear. Boho trenches and short-sleeve jackets with belts. luxe, painterly patterns and sensuous minimalism Favorite shows: Donna Karan’s full-skirted short dress- emerged, as well. The appeal of dresses holds on, al- es and halter looks; Charles Nolan’s ladylike toppers, though the line has dropped to the all-important waist, jackets and wide-leg pants; Calvin Klein’s color palette, though the longer skirt and blouse look newer. and Carmen Marc Valvo’s strong, feminine touch with Favorite collections: Oscar de la Renta. Effortless and all those ruffl es. beautiful, it’s a wardrobe that never dates, and defi nes chic. Narciso Rodriguez is becoming more masterful Ann Watson, vice president and fashion director of Henri and ever more inventive in his subtle constructions. Bendel Each piece of Calvin Klein’s collection was perfectly cut. Rate the week: We loved the return to the body and Naeem Khan is the best of luxury bohemian out there and sublime sexiness with layered, sheer, diaphanous fab- Rodarte’s collection was ethereal and beautiful. rics like chiffons and organzas. It’s feminine without being girly. Prints seemed to get stronger and bolder. Michael Fink, vice president and women’s fashion direc- Oscar de Diane von Furstenberg certainly did that best. Also, Phi, tor at Saks Fifth Avenue la Renta Rodarte Michael Kors and Elise Overland. There’s a continuation What’s the fashion news in New York?: Not much. of polished looks. Designers have embraced a more ac- Elongated silhouettes that emphasize the waist. A newer cessorized look. slouchy attitude in sportswear separates. Ubiquitous pol- Julie Gilhart, senior vice president and fashion director What’s new?: We’re excited to see more jackets and the ished looks in barely there colors or infused with shine. of Barneys New York long day dress, and the focus on shorts worn with vests Big moments: Ralph Lauren’s anniversary evening; senso- Rate the week: The main trend is that anything goes. or jackets. There haven’t been a lot of work options to ry overload at Oscar; Zac Posen’s refi ned spirit; Francisco There’s something for everyone. The dress going from come down the runway. Josh Goot’s colorblocking was Costa’s purity of soul; Donna being pure Donna. short to long will be the news for spring daytime dress- truly genius: icy, sherbert tones and neon brights. Spring pick-me-ups: High-waisted pants and skirts, eth- ing. I love the new A-line full shorter skirt and the white Must-haves for spring: Anna Sui’s puffy-sleeved blouses nic prints, citrus colors, mid- to maxi-length skirts and shirtdress. Great colors and beautiful prints will help and Phi’s vests. dresses, one-shoulder tops and dresses, shoulder bags, drive spring sales. eclectic jewelry, skinny belts. Favorite collections: Isabel Toledo for Anne Klein was Lance Lawson, an owner of Jake, which has two loca- amazing. In only the second season, she showed the tions in Chicago and one in suburban Winnetka, Ill. Nicole Fischelis, vice president and fashion director of beginning of what promises to be a must-see show. Her What’s new?: Richard Chai looked especially fresh. We women’s at Macy’s hand-painted pieces were the most imaginative prints of loved the long, slim blazers over skirts. It was a depar- Favorite collections: I thought Michael Kors was especial- the whole week. I loved Rodarte for being luxury fanta- ture from the voluminous trend, which our customer is ly refi ned, modern, new couture-like, true color magic. sy with softness and edge all in one collection. Narciso systematically rejecting. He had all the must-haves of the season. Among the new Rodriguez had his best collection to date. Behnaz Favorite collections: Behnaz Sarafpour best captured the generation, I saw Thakoon, Peter Som, Tuleh, and they Sarafpour’s mix of luxurious organic fabrics and natu- mood of the season. The models and clothes had such an were truly exquisite — artful with wonderful workman- ral dye prints were beautifully executed. easy beauty. Her ladylike A-line skirts and chic dresses ship and attention to detail and fabulous prints. Carolina Must-haves for spring: Dresses, especially long to the fl oor in bright colors embellished with wood and coral seemed Herrera and Oscar de la Renta were exceptional. The art- for day, look good; A-line full short skirts; shirtdresses, fresh. We also loved the ivory hopsack jacket with the istry of Marc Jacobs. I love the new tailoring from Ralph particularly in white; anything in a bold color; anything turquoise-beaded collar. Doo-Ri [Chung] delivered a Lauren, the peplum and shock of color; Anna Sui; Betsey printed; full shorts; high-waisted pants, and belts. collection that captured her stunning design ideal and Johnson, and Vivienne Tam is going to the next level. Young designers: Alexander Wang; Band of Outsiders had commercial viability. Chris Benz’s dead-on use of color What’s new: The evolution of embellishment, fabric a very good fi rst presentation, and Chloë Sevigny’s collec- perfectly refl ected this season’s color obsession. manipulation, artful and ethnic prints. The new volu- tion for Opening Ceremony was so cute and stylish. Young designers: We previewed Katherine Tsina’s cap- minous skirts and full dresses and the freshness of all sule collection, Avion Feminin, and understand why ev- the dresses — strapless, one-shoulder, the new halter, Stefani Greenfi eld, co-owner of Scoop eryone is buzzing. The collection refl ected a key spring the whole femininity, ruffl es and bows treatment. I think What’s new?: I found a lot of inspiration and newness. trend — black and white optic prints. there is a lot of new direction. I see the fusion of the Silhouettes were much more fl uid. I loved the longer hem- Wished I saw: Contemporary collections. There was a active aesthetic, safari chic and cargo has a new angle. lines in dresses, there were lots of great color and prints. void. We couldn’t fi nd a single one we were impressed There’s the importance of the jacket, dresses, blouses Favorite collections: Michael Kors’ take on classic with this season. and wide-leg pants. Tailoring is coming back, fi tted, American sportswear and beautiful fl owy dresses and — With contributions from David Moin cropped jackets and dresses. I love the season overall gowns in the season’s sherbet-inspired colors just seemed and Marc Karimzadeh, New York,

because it’s two sides of the brain. I fi nd that each of the right. Zac Posen’s gowns were phenomenal and I loved and Beth Wilson, Chicago GIANNONI AND GEORGE CHINSEE GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY 12 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2007 WWD.COM The Beat Alvin Valley’s Relaxed Take on Contemporary By Julee Greenberg I picture this girl as being very chill and re- laxed, but also feminine and sexy.” lvin Valley is courting the contemporary Ana Swab, vice president of contemporary Agirl. women’s apparel at Nordstrom, said Valley The designer, known for his signature best- approached her with the idea for a new con- selling pants, has created a contemporary temporary line. sportswear line exclusively for Nordstrom. “Alvin is very talented, and we have done The collection, called Alvin, will launch in great business with his line in the past,” she the spring in select Nordstrom doors. After said. “So when he came to us with this new the introduction, the line will open to other idea, we listened.” high-end specialty and better department Swab said Valley launched at Nordstrom stores. Valley will show the Alvin line next in 2002, and the stores continuously sold out week at the Fashion Coterie in New York. of his pants. She said she still does well with “The idea was to come up with something Valley’s higher-end collection, but was happy younger, casual and fresh,” Valley said. “This to hear his idea for the Savvy department, is a true contemporary line, priced about 30 where the contemporary collections sit. percent lower than my designer line, Asis. “The Alvin line is a bit more fun and not With that said, it is still very much a designer as serious as collection,” she said. “I liked line, with great quality and attention to detail the idea of a line of related separates for our in each and every piece.” Savvy department. I think it will do very well Valley said while he knew he wanted to for us.” design a lower-priced line, he didn’t want to As for the future of the Alvin brand, Valley go as mass as some designers have with their said he has endless ideas. While he said he Target or H&M collaborations. has been looking to open his own freestand- “I really wanted to stay in this higher-end ing stores for years, Valley said he thinks the world, where I see so much action and growth Alvin brand will allow him to do so. potential,” he said. “As for a store, I was always looking for the The result is a collection of separates and perfect location, the perfect opportunity,” he relaxed dresses that includes cropped jack- said. “But the Alvin brand will be treated as ets, soft cotton dresses, printed silk tops, an entirely separate business, so this might shorts and cropped pants. Colors for spring be the right line for a store.” range from emerald green and bright blue to Valley said he will continue to approach soft pink, yellow and crisp white. The Alvin his lines separately, always concentrating on collection wholesales from $58 for a pair of a different woman. shorts up to $183 for jackets. “I see these as two completely different “This collection is not at all serious, it is customers,” he said. “They are completely more for the weekend,” Valley explained. different mind-sets.” Alvin’s cotton jacket “These are not offi ce clothes, they are for Valley declined to give first-year sales and skirt for spring. A cotton dress. hanging out with friends, shopping, vacation. expectations.

A silk top and cropped pants. WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2007 13 WWD.COM Web sales of apparel, accessories and footwear reached $18.3 billion last year and are expected to grow to $22.1 billion this year, according to TheWWDList Forrester Research. Nielsen//NetRatings has provided the rankings of retailers who recorded the highest online apparel and accessories purchases in July. Trends among the top 10: outdoorsy brands L.L. Bean and Lands’ End, along with women’s apparel names, such as Victoria’s Secret, Lane Bryant and Coldwater Creek. Macy’s, Wal-Mart and Target ranked 13th, 17th and 22nd, respectively. “What we have noticed is that bricks-and- Online Spending Spree mortars are defi nitely closing the gap and becoming more competitive in The top 10 retailers for apparel and accessories ranked by online purchases in the online world,” said Larry Freed, president and chief executive offi cer of those categories during July. ForeSee Results Inc., an online satisfaction research fi rm. — Cecily Hall

EBAY Total apparel and accessories purchases in July: 2.98 million Average spent per buyer: $35.83 “EBay continues to be the biggest online retailer, almost with a vengeance — every month is huge for them,” said Heather Dougherty, senior analyst for retail and travel, Nielsen//NetRatings. Since its inception, San Jose, Calif.-based eBay has expanded to include some of the strongest 1 e-commerce brands, including PayPal, Skype, shopping.com and others. EBay’s online auction marketplace is saturated with well-known designer apparel and accessories names. Items currently up for bid include a black Chanel Cambon reporter bag, sterling silver open heart earrings by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. and a Prada White Label dress. VICTORIA’S SECRET Total purchases: 663,000 Average spent per buyer: $177.74 Chairman and chief executive offi cer Leslie Wexner has redirected the focus of Limited Brands Inc. The Columbus, Ohio-based company sold off its Limited and Express stores to focus more on its innerwear and beauty offerings from Victoria’s Secret and Bath & Body Works. The retailer 2 also includes Henri Bendel, C.O. Bigelow, White Barn Candle Co. and La Senza in its portfolio of brands. Victoria’s Secret offers more than just innerwear: Swimwear, shoes, beauty products and various apparel pieces are also available on the site. Victoria’s Secret ranks second behind Coldwater Creek, in terms of the average amount spent per buyer. J.C. PENNEY & CO. Total purchases: 568,000 Average spent per buyer: $68.65 In June, jcpenney.com tied for fourth place as one of the top retail Web sites in terms of customer satisfaction, according to the latest biannual study by ForeSee Results. For the Plano, Tex.-based retailer’s second-quarter performance ended Aug. 4, Internet sales through jcp.com 3 increased 17.4 percent on overall sales of $4.4 billion, and the strongest merchandise results were in children’s and women’s apparel, with the best performances in the Northwest and Southwest. In 2006, Internet sales accounted for 6 percent of Penney’s $20 billion in total sales. The Web site said that among its general merchandise peers “jcp.com has the highest rate (10.1 percent) of converting site visitors into buyers.”

CHADWICK’S Total purchases: 305,000 Average spending per buyer: $62.15 West Bridgewater, Mass.-based Chadwick’s is owned by Redcats USA, part of the French conglomerate PPR (which also owns Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent and Bottega Veneta). “Chadwick’s is one of the most desirable sites for customers to shop for dresses,” company spokeswoman Pat Cross 4 told WWD. “Chadwicks.com anticipates selling over 750,000 dresses during 2007 — to date, the company has already sold approximately 500,000 dresses on the Web.” In addition, the company offers shoes and accessories for women, such as handbags, legwear and fi ne jewelry.

L.L. BEAN Total purchases: 271,000 Average spending per buyer: $122.40 This privately held mail-order and retail company was founded by Leon Leonwood Bean in 1912. Based in Freeport, Maine, L.L. Bean specializes in men’s, women’s and children’s clothing and outdoor equipment. According to Quantcast.com, an Internet ratings service, llbean.com reaches 5 more than 2.3 million U.S. monthly unique visitors. “The site attracts a slightly more female than male, mostly Caucasian, more affl uent, more educated, primarily older crowd,” said Quantcast.com. The company continues to focus on increasing its brick-and-mortar shops worldwide and plans to expand its headquarters by developing a hotel, a 100,000-square-foot lifestyle shopping center and an outdoor adventure center. LANDS’ END Total purchases: 263,000 Average spending per buyer: $76.48 Owned by Hoffman Estates, Ill.-based Sears Holdings Corp., this retailer was acquired by the company in 2002. Lands’ End carries women’s apparel, such as activewear, jeans, innerwear, skirts, dresses, outerwear and sleepwear, along with accessories and bags. The retailer launched its 6 Web site in 1995 and featured 100 products, along with essays and travelogues. Today, the site offers all of its products. On the home page, new fall looks are featured, including cashmere and wool sweaters, canvas fi eld jackets and tunic tops. The site’s Overstocks section offers shoppers up to a 65 percent discount on apparel items such as V-neck T-shirts, fl annel pajamas and swimsuits. COLDWATER CREEK Total purchases: 259,000 Average spending per buyer: $182.71 This company’s sales momentum continues, partly because of its Web site’s performance: For the second quarter ended Aug. 7, Web site net sales increased 9.8 percent to $54.8 million, from $49.9 million in the fi scal 2006 second quarter. Web site net sales represented 21.6 percent of the 7 company’s total net sales in the fi scal 2007 second quarter. In addition to its online services, WWD reported this month that the Sandpoint, Idaho- based retailer has opened its fi rst Manhattan store, a 15,000-square-foot fl agship on Third Avenue and 68th Street — one of the most expensive retail corridors in the region. LANE BRYANT Total purchases: 253,000 Average spending per buyer: $60.50 In 2001, Charming Shoppes Inc. acquired the Columbus, Ohio-based Lane Bryant, which lanebryant.com describes as “the fashion leader in 8 women’s plus-size clothing, sizes 14-28.” The site offers tops, bottoms, suiting, activewear, swimwear, dresses, outerwear, maternity clothing and accessories for women. In addition, the site’s Right Fit by Lane Bryant section takes shoppers through a quick questionnaire to help ensure a proper fi t for their body type.

QVC Total purchases: 204,000 Average spending per buyer: $98.89 The initials stand for Quality, Value, Convenience. QVC’s shopping network went online on Sept. 9, 1996, allowing viewers the option of purchasing their items online. The site features a daily special on its home page, called Today’s Special Value. Major apparel and accessories names that are 9 sold through QVC include: Dooney & Burke, Maxx New York, Etienne Aigner and Michael Michael Kors for accessories, and Bradley Bayou, Pamela Dennis, Bob Mackie and Diva By Dana Buchman for apparel.

KOHL’S Total purchases: 200,000 Average spending per buyer: $84.26 Kohl’s this week has boosted its portfolio of apparel, accessories and home furnishings offerings with the Simply Vera Vera Wang line. In addition 10 to Simply Vera, Menomonee Falls, Wisc.-based Kohl’s sells apparel from brands, such as Chaps, Daisy Fuentes and Levi’s. For young shoppers, back-to-school items are still available, from brands such as Candie’s and Tony Hawk. The site also features a large clearance section, which currently features items discounted by 60 to 80 percent.

SOURCE: NIELSEN//NETRATINGS MEGAVIEW RETAIL, JULY 2007; JULY RESULTS REFLECT THE MOST RECENT DATA AVAILABLE 14 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2007 WWD.COM

WHO’S BIGGER?: Rachel Zoe has never been Wal-Mart Updates Ad Slogan known for having a MEMO PAD small ego, but who knew By Sharon Edelson The company has moved away from last year’s more she considered herself au courant advertising — which showed stylish mer- the most important woman in fashion. “Anna Wintour is one al-Mart Stores Inc.’s new ad campaign goes to the heart chandise with smiles in day-to-day life along with the of my heroes, but they say I’m more infl uential,” Zoe tells Wof what matters most to its customers — their wallets. message, “The more you save, the more you smile” Lynn Hirschberg in this Sunday’s issue of The New York Times With a new tag line, “Save more. Live better,” re- — to the new campaign. Magazine. “As great as it is, Vogue won’t change a designer’s placing “Always low prices,” the company continues to Among the spots in the latest campaign is the folksy business. But if an unknown brand is worn by a certain person emphasize its low-price proposition, illustrating how “Car” commercial, which shows a father and son driv- in a tabloid, it will be the biggest designer within a week.” saving money on the little things adds up and, by Wal- ing in a pickup truck. When the dad catches his son Arrogant? Perhaps. But she’s certainly making a Mart’s logic, can help people live better lives. looking longingly at a jazzy red number in a used car comparable salary to the famed editor in chief. According to The 30-second TV commercials created by the dealership they pass, he quickly turns around and pulls Hirschberg, the stylist makes roughly $6,000 a day, which is Martin Agency juxtapose rural touchstones such as into the lot. When the boy seems apprehensive, his fa- generally paid for by the movie studios when her clients have pickup trucks, luncheonettes and country roads with ther prods, “Go on, check it out.” Another spot, “Road movies to promote for them. And others are clearly interested soulful instrumental soundtracks. Each spot ends Trip” fi nds a family heading to Orlando in their station in her services as well, among them the Bravo network, with the message, “Wal-Mart saves the average family wagon with a suitcase on the roof and bikes hitched to which is reportedly in talks with Zoe about doing a show for $2,500 per year. What will you do with your money?” the back of the car. The family travels on scenic roads them. — Jacob Bernstein followed by the new tag line. and highways, where a Wal-Mart truck speeds past. The amount of savings per family came from new The kids fi ght in the car, the family stays at a roadside LUXURY BATTLE: Fortune decided to make its annual luxury research released Wednesday in a study commis- motel, swims in the pool and runs along the beach. issue all about fashion — at least on the cover — by sioned by Wal-Mart and conducted by Global Insight, The commercials will run on network season pre- choosing to highlight pieces on Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs and which shows the average American family’s savings of mieres, specials and cable television. At the end of each Brooks Brothers. And while the cover may seem a departure $2,500 is a 7.3 percent increase over $2,329 in 2004. spot, consumers are directed to Wal-Mart’s interactive for the business title, it’s another indicator the magazine Global Insight found that a continued reduction in Web site, which features customer testimonials about is serious about the luxury category — and its ad dollars. prices due to the presence of Wal-Mart and the growth how they’ve saved money by shopping at Wal-Mart The issue comes about a year after Fortune hired assistant in consumer expenditures from 2004 to 2006 translat- and behind-the-scenes footage from the campaign. managing editor John Brodie to cover luxury. ed directly into $287 billion in savings for consumers Consumers can submit their own savings testimonials. And Brodie confi rmed the magazine plans to do more last year. Wal-Mart said a state-by-state analysis will “This is a return to basics and not different from stories on “the business of style” in the future. “The luxury be available later this month. the promise we always make to our customers that goods industry is a $250 billion industry, why shouldn’t The world’s largest retailer continues to mine its they’ll fi nd price leadership and great brands and Fortune cover it with the same uncompromising journalism traditional roots, while rival Target’s advertising fo- value,” said a Wal-Mart spokeswoman. “The ads and elegant photography that we bring to other sectors of cuses more on style and creativity. Target’s most re- breaking [Wednesday] are a small part of our advertis- the global economy?” But do cover lines about Lauren and cent TV campaign features models wearing bold col- ing through the year. We’ll continue to show product Jacobs appeal to the average Fortune reader? “I think it’s ors and graphic designs that seamlessly segue into ads and seasonal ads. These help us set the tone in really narrow-minded to imply that just because someone eye-catching product assemblages, all set to a catchy terms of great storytelling about how shopping at Wal- works with spreadsheets, he or she doesn’t know what a soundtrack “A little bit more, a little bit more.” The Mart helps you realize savings. These ads show that spread collar is — particularly if that spread collar is part tag line is “Expect more. Pay less.” we’re really in touch with who we are.” of a $4.5 billion, publicly traded company like Polo Ralph Wal-Mart has been looking to grow beyond its core The company plans to track the amount of money Lauren,” he added. customer, but attempts to up the trend and style quo- saved by consumers so far this year by installing a sav- And is it sheer coincidence Fortune is getting more tient of categories such as apparel and soft home ings ticker outside Wal-Mart’s corporate headquarters aggressive about covering fashion and luxury, given that new goods haven’t played out well across the entire chain. in Bentonville, Ark. rival Portfolio says those categories also form part of its core coverage? Brodie declined to talk about Portfolio’s aim at the luxury market, or the magazine in general. However, Portfolio group president and publishing director David Carey said luxury will continue as a core ad category and, so far, regular Legislation Introduced for Import Safety luxury advertisers include Ralph Lauren, Giorgio Armani, Hugo Boss, Tod’s and Calvin Klein. — Amy Wicks By Kristi Ellis standards on fl ammability and drawstrings. The legislation would make more funds available TRIPLE PLAY: Wallpaper is the next magazine to tap a guest WASHINGTON — Sens. Mark Pryor (D., Ark.) and to the agency to increase staff levels to at least 500 editor, or more specifi cally, three: Hedi Slimane, Jeff Koons Daniel Inouye (D., Hawaii) introduced legislation employees by 2013, improve “antiquated” testing fa- and Dieter Rams. Each has created a cover, plus inside Wednesday to overhaul the Consumer Product Safety cilities and boost the number of CPSC agents at U.S. pages. Slimane has contributed a set of 20 posters, using Commission and provide more protection for import- ports. It authorizes funding levels for seven years his own photography and typography. He also sat down ed children’s products amid a growing debate over starting at $80 million in 2009 and increasing at a for an interview with features director Nick Compton at the contaminated and defective Chinese imports. rate of 10 percent a year through 2015. Another $20 Mercer Hotel in New York. In the October issue, which hits Pryor detailed the bill at a Senate Appropriations million would be set aside in the 2008 and 2009 fi scal newsstands in London today, Compton writes about how subcommittee hearing, where senators questioned years to upgrade labs, and $1 million would autho- they ran into Marc Jacobs at the hotel. “Where Jacobs is CPSC commissioners and top executives from Mattel rize research on safety of nanotechnology products. ebullient, expansive, theatrical, and very much on home Inc. and Toys ‘R’ Us about tainted toy recalls and the Pryor said in a statement that he is concerned ground at the Mercer, Slimane is quiet, shy, unfailingly need for stricter testing, enforcement, standards and that the CPSC’s abilities have “deteriorated” partly polite, self-deprecating, devoid, it seems, of the diva gene,” penalties for children’s lead-paint toys and jewelry. because staff levels have been reduced from 900 in he writes (at least with journalists; Compton clearly wasn’t While the Congressional debate primarily has focused the early Eighties to about 400 full-time employees. privy to Slimane’s hard-nosed contract negotiations with on Chinese imports of food and children’s products, ap- The legislation also proposes increasing civil Dior executives). The former Dior Homme designer said he parel importers are concerned the heightened attention penalties to $250,000 per violation with a cap of $100 loves fashion design and misses it, but he doesn’t want to be on product safety may lead to stricter product safety regu- million, and raises criminal penalties to fi ve years in taken hostage by a brand’s success. “So I need to follow my lations and requirements for all apparel, more scrutiny jail for those who “knowingly and willingly” violate own principles, to feel that the project is right and that the of cargo containers and the imposing of user fees on product safety laws. The measure also would make it timing makes sense.” companies that import products from China. illegal for retailers to sell recalled products, require Tony Chambers, Wallpaper’s editor in chief, said the The bill authorizes additional funding for the independent safety certifi cation on every children’s magazine put together a “wish list” of guest editors from agency, which implements regulations on imported product that enters the U.S. and require manufactur- the worlds of art, fashion, architecture and design, and they consumer products, including apparel and textiles. ers to label children’s products with tracking informa- all said yes. “This seemed to go well so we might make this Apparel importers already must meet strict CPSC tion to facilitate a recall. a regular thing in October,” he said. In addition, he added readers will be seeing more fashion in the magazine via fashion director Kim Andreolli. The issue also marks the fi rst time photographer Mario Sorrenti has worked with Wallpaper. — A.W. Senate Passes $104.6B Highway Bill NEW GIG: Former Shop Etc. executive editor Charla Krupp has landed at More magazine as a fashion columnist. The WASHINGTON — The Senate passed a $104.6 billion Cross-border trucking between Mexico and the U.S., a column, which begins in the November issue, is a natural spending bill Wednesday that provides funds to up- stipulation in the North American Free Trade Agreement tie-in to her book, forthcoming in January, “How Not to grade the nation’s highways, but abandons a Bush ad- enacted in 1994, has been held up for years by legal chal- Look Old.” Before Shop Etc., which Hearst folded in August ministration pilot program that would allow long-haul lenges, safety concerns over substandard Mexican trucks 2006, Krupp worked at Glamour and In Style. — Irin Carmon Mexican trucks to operate across the U.S. and opposition from the Teamsters union. The measure passed 88 to 7 to pay expenses for the The administration ordered the pilot program this DIFFERENT DIRECTION: The cover of the new Bergdorf 2008 fi scal year starting Oct. 1. However, the proposal year, but Congress blocked it in an Iraq War supple- Goodman magazine isn’t a typical one for the department still faces hurdles: a presidential veto threat and ne- mental bill, pending a report by the transportation store, but that’s the point, said creative director Aidan Kemp. gotiations to reconcile differences in the House and department inspector general on Sept. 6. The DOT In the new issue, customers will get a different vision of Senate versions. then launched the pilot project that allows up to 100 what Bergdorf’s has to offer, he added, apart from more The bill would provide $65.7 billion for the Mexican trucking carriers, which will be phased in, to traditional names like Chanel. Photographed in Iceland, the Department of Transportation, which is $2.57 billion send trucks into the U.S. for a year. cover features a model wearing a Costume National satin more than the 2007 fi scal year and $1.24 billion above “We don’t want to share our highways with danger- dress with red-orange-colored tights and hot-pink gloves. the administration’s 2008 fi scal year budget request. ous trucks from Mexico,” Teamsters general president “We could have gone with safe and beautiful, but this feels President Bush has threatened a veto because the James Hoffa said in a statement. “Since Congress has more modern and graphic,” Kemp offered. Readers will Senate’s proposal exceeds his budget ceiling. only blocked funding for a year, the Teamsters will probably also notice a heftier issue from last September, The Senate approved an amendment to the trans- continue the fi ght.” as ad pages are up 15 percent. Inside, the magazine has portation and housing spending bill introduced by For apparel importers, who shipped 107 million contributions from GQ’s Style Guy, Glenn O’Brien, and a Sen. Byron Dorgan (D., N.D.) that would prohibit the square meter equivalents in apparel and textiles valued conversation between Gay Talese and Peter Kaplan on the use of funds to allow Mexico-based trucks to operate at $5.8 billion from Mexico to the U.S. for the year ended future of print journalism. — A.W. beyond the commercial zones in the U.S., which Bush July 31, Congressional rejection was a disappointment. has tried to implement for years. — K.E. WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2007 15 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.

ESTABLISHED DESIGN STUDIO SEEKS: SPEC TECHNICIAN PRODUCTION COORDINATOR NYC Importer seeks a Spec Techni- Showrooms & Lofts MENSWEAR DESIGNER Magaschoni Apparel Group cian to handle both knit & woven tops Seeking candidates with min 5 years and bottoms. Strong knowledge of BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Excellent opportunity in growing, int’l fashion company. Private Label Sales Exec. grading, garment construction & fit. Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Seeking energetic, experienced experience in sweater production. Must have excellent computer and com- ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Responsible for creation & development of multi- Excellent follow up skills required. munication skills. Great opportunity. individual with good existing cus- Email resumes to: [email protected] classification collections with merchant team. Strong tomer relationships who can grow Must be very familiar with overseas understanding of branding a must. Research seasonal production, organized and computer TAILOR $70-80K. Strong exp in bridge multi-category private label women’s or couture womens ready-to-wear co. trend,fabric, silhouette & color direction. Excellent and men’s fashion buisness. literate especially with AS400. req’d. Full-time perm only. Well known sense of color required to create seasonal palettes. designer. Call: 973-564-9236 or email: PLEASE FAX OR EMAIL RESUME TO: [email protected] Strong print & graphic taste level required. Denim Fax (after 7pm) or email resumes to: 509-757-7814 or Broadway Garment Center Technical Design to $50K Strong on NICE OFFICE + SHOWROOM experience a must. Proficient knowledge of fabric, 212-869-3179 or [email protected] Illustrator req’d. Exp in creating tech pkgs AVAILABLE TO SHARE garment construction & sketching a must. Expert in [email protected] & working tech packs through to sending Please Call Joan @ 917-907-1667 to Far East. Chinese or Korean bi-ling Photoshop and Illustrator. 5-10 yrs design exp. required. PRODUCTION helpful not nec. [email protected] Please submit resume: Mid-town apparel importer seeks an Textile Cad Artist Production Assistant experienced Production person who is [email protected] strong at managing private label ac- Expert in Photoshop 2 + years Intimate Apparel Company exp, textile design skills a must. Must be highly motivated and detail- counts. Good benefits. Fax or email resume to: Sal + ben. Fax resume 212-947-4501 oriented. Major follow up in fast paced Email: [email protected] environment. You will oversee all 212-471-0330/ [email protected] Design aspects of production to ensure on- Dress Designer time delivery thru communication Knit/Woven Designer between design / sales and overseas SALES ASSISTANT Looking for a talented novelty sweater / ECI New York vendors. Must also have good working FACTORIES knowledge of Microsoft Outlook, Word Established Junior Co. seeks assistant Major Woman’s Dress manufacturer woven designer to join our team. We are A better updated manufacturer of Women’s Branded & Private Label & Excel. Please fax or e-mail your for account executive to handle day to looking for domestic & overseas factories seeking a creative, detail oriented person day operations & various office duties. w/min. 3 years experience in illustrating, Sportswear seeks a dress designer resume to: E. Williams: 212-842-4031; with official & current certification for [email protected] EOE. Candidate must have excellent com- Sears, Chicos, Talbots, WRAP & Ethical flat sketching, beading and applique with at least five years experience as a designer. Must have knowledge of flat munication and organizational skills. Audit. To inquire, please contact: layouts. E-mail: [email protected] Fax resume to Erin: 212-840-6961 [email protected] pattern and draping and must have ex- perience running a sample room. This PRODUCTION is an established well known Brand COORDINATOR Defi ning style. Seeking Manufacturers with tremendous room for growth. Fast paced textile design and import SPEC TECHNICIAN Women’s Clothing Importer seeks Digital Printing Technician Candidate needs to be very organized. firm seeks smart, hard working detail Mid-town apparel importer is looking Sweater, Knit & Woven manufacturers/ For apparel & Home Furnishing. Salary commensurate with experience. oriented person to process orders, for an experienced and professional Delivering results. agents from China based in NY. To Excellent color matching skills a must. ECI is a great home for individuals coordinate shipments, communicate Spec Technician to handle private make an appointment call: For new Division. Sal + ben. that love Fashion and have a strong with customer and mills. Experience label accounts. Strong knowledge of 201-889-4417 or email: Fax resume 212-947-4501 or desire to succeed. Fax or email resume to is preferred but not necessary. Com- grading, garment construction and fit- [email protected] Email: [email protected] 212-382-0237 or [email protected] puter proficiency (word, excel, outlook) tings. We are looking for a team player Call 800-423-3314 or e-mail a must. Please fax resumes to with excellent computer and commu- 212.354.1950 nication skills. Great company benefits. fpclassifi [email protected] Fax or email resume to: 212-471-0330 or [email protected] to advertise.

CAD-GRAPHICS-FABRIC PRINTING U4ia-Photoshp-Illustr: 212 679 6400 www.sanodesignservices.com DENIMS TO SELL Large Lots, Lots of Denim Fabric. Camo Available. Cheap Prices. 1.877.DENIM.TO.SELL PATTERN/SAMPLES Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Patterns/Samples/Production SENIOR SALES ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Full Service, Fine Fast Work. Excellent opportunity for a highly motivated Any Styles. Phone: 212-560-8998 / 212-560-8999 account executive for contemporary brand PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Qualifications should include: •5 years experience in wholesale PRODUCTIONS •Dynamic personality & ability to work in fast paced, All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Call Sherry 212-719-0622. team-oriented environment. •Willing to travel PATTERNS, SAMPLES, E-mail resumes with salary history & requirement to: PRODUCTIONS [email protected] Full service shop to the trade. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. PATTERNS & SAMPLES SMALL PRODUCTION Senior VP Sales Fast - Accurate - Reliable Women’s Activewear; Must have est’d. Call: 212-217-9750 contacts with majors, verifiable track record, able to work in start up environ- ment. Salary/Over-Ride/Equity possible. PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD F/T Sales Associate Please E-mail to: [email protected] High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- Prestigious, fast-paced environment sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 Madison Avenue Lingerie/Body Wear Boutique seeks Full Time Sales Assoc. Qualified candidates will possess supe- rior customer service, sales, and com- munication skills. Please Fax resume & salary requirements to: 212-453-5568 Successful jeanswear co. seeks exp’d sales pro for its new 2-6X division SALES EXECUTIVE Must have relationship w/ private label In Vogue Studios, an excellent full service accounts 3+ years exp. Email resume CAD+Hand Studio is expanding again. to: [email protected] Seeks a self-starting individual w/ strong relationships + experience in textile service work. We offer opportunity for growth w/ competitive Sal. & Ben. Fax resume to: 212-947-4501 or E-mail CAD DESIGNER [email protected] Large NYC, est’d 30 years, INTIMATE APPAREL CO seeks 2 cad designers with 3-5 yrs exp. Must be super crea- tive w/ability to work in fast paced Kensie / Macy’s environment. Great salary & benefits. Qualified candidates email Kensie Shop Mgr @ Herald Square: [email protected] Drive sales, 100% execution of business strategies, develop top sales associates, ensure best merchandise standards and Charge Back Clerk visual presentation, communicate oppor- Leading brand & private label Co. im- tunities, actively contributes to selling mediately seeking high exp’d w/ culture. Be a part of something extraordi- charge backs, disputes, paybacks. At nary. Partner with Kensie and America’s least 3+ yrs c/b exp. with Major depart- Dept Store. Please E-mail all resumes ment store and factor. to: [email protected] fax resumes to: 212-221-0368 Speakers:

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