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Home , Andrea Casiraghi, Christian Siriano, Cruise collection, Daniel Lalonde, Donna Karan, Eric Lewis (pianist)

PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA Looking Great . For more on the season, see pages 6 to 15. looks for evening. Here, one example: a beaded, illusion-detailed haberdashery tailored tweeds for day and luxe, sophisticated clothes with no shortage of embellishment. There were terrific showed a dazzling fall collection, full of beautiful inclined to take risk, though the luxury chain and suppliers skittish over Barneys and less economic meltdown. emiratefacesitsown as theMiddleEastern to sell the chain at a price no one wants to pay Dubai-based Istithmar, has been quietly trying the retaileranditscashflowhard.Itsowner, retailing, particularly the luxury sector, has hit since lastJuly, in andtheseveredownturn has been without a chief executive officer years hasfailedtogaintraction;theretailer chain’sfuture. uncertainties overtheluxury approving orders as a result of New York, withsomefactorsnolonger The financialviseistighteningonBarneys M.YoungBy DavidMoinandVicki Over Sale Uncertainty Sale Over Factors DropBarneys Squeeze: Feeling Luxe’s All those factors are making certain vendors costlyexpansionofthepastthree Barneys’ W Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Hollywood Hills pre-parties to the red carpet at the Kodak Theatre, pages 16 to 19. Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • February 23, 2009 • $3.00 The stars were out and celebrating during Academy Awards weekend, from the ALL ABOUT OSCAR See w

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collections/fall ’09 collections/fall collections/fall ’09 collections/fall 2 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2009 WWD.COM Penney’s Forecasts Loss, Sales Drop By Vicki M. Young near-term pressures. While taking advantage of opportunities, we’ll strengthen our longer-term J.C. Penney Co. Inc. on Friday posted a competitive position.” WwDAccessories/Innerwear/LegwearMonday 51 percent slide in fourth-quarter profits, hurt Ken C. Hicks, president and chief merchan- by the curtailment of consumer spending, but dising officer, said during the call, “J.C. Penney the retailer still managed to beat Wall Street’s continues to lead in women’s apparel, where our expectations by 3 cents. sales trends were once again stronger than our Ralph Lauren shone, Ralph Rucci went above and The company also told Wall Street it expects competitors. For the fourth quarter, women’s ap- 6 beyond and L’Wren Scott executed a winning to post a first-quarter loss in the range of 20 to 30 parel and family were our best-performing collection as New York wrapped up. cents a share. businesses….The fine jewelry division continues For the three months ended Jan. 31, income to be our weakest business, consistent with others GENERAL was $211 million, or 95 cents a diluted share, in the industry. For the quarter, jcp.com sales de- The financial vise is tightening on Barneys, with down from $430 million, or $1.93, in the same creased approximately 8.6 percent versus a 13.7 1 some factors no longer approving spring orders year-ago quarter. The Wall Street consensus percent increase last year.” because of uncertainties over the chain’s future. among analysts was 92 cents. Sales fell 9.9 percent Hicks said the company last year opened 35 to $5.76 billion from $6.39 billion. Comparable- new or relocated stores. It also completed signifi- 3 Coach Inc. is launching a jovial collection called store sales in the quarter dropped 10.8 percent. cant fixturing and store environment improve- Poppy with a broader price range intended to For the year, income declined 48.5 percent to ments in about 600 stores across the country, as reach a customer with a more youthful attitude. $572 million, or $2.57 a diluted share, from $1.11 well as 24 major renovations and 90 store refur- Most retailers concluded billion, or $4.93, in 2007. Sales were down 6.9 bishments. The retailer opened 44 stores 12s in a reflective, positive mood, despite repeated percent to $18.49 billion from $19.86 billion. inside Penney’s locations in 2008, bringing its total “Effectively executing our Bridge Plan enabled Sephora in-store shops to 91 locations. The current days of depressing economic news. J.C. Penney to maintain a strong financial position plan is to “accelerate our Sephora openings in 2009 20 INNERWEAR: The fall market reflected the angst and improve our cash flow metrics, despite the with 64 additional locations planned,” he said. and uncertainty of a battered economy and sharp deterioration of consumer spending over Hicks also emphasized, “The benefit of our cutbacks at stores from Macy’s to Wal-Mart. the course of 2008,” said Myron E. “Mike” Ullman proactive approach on pricing and promotions 3rd, chairman and chief executive officer. during December was that we were able to effec- 21 ACCESSORIES: Jewelry firm David Yurman is He added that throughout 2008, the company tively clear through seasonal merchandise, and introducing its newest men’s , The Classic, “took steps to significantly reduce our invento- end the year with a clean inventory position. We featuring the ’s first round case. ries and operating expenses in order to with- ended the quarter with total inventory down 10.5 28 Rebounding from steep discounts at the end of stand the impact of the economic conditions. percent, and aligned with expected sales trends last year, retail prices for apparel rose 0.3 percent At the same time, we stepped up the style we over the near term.” in January, the U.S. Labor Department said. offer and focused on effectively communicat- In addition to the per-share loss it expects in ing the newness, excitement and value in our the first quarter, Penney’s projected a first-quar- EYE merchandise, as well as engaging and enabling ter sales decline of 10 to 13 percent, as well as a 16 our associates to provide a rewarding shopping comps decrease of 12 to 15 percent. The stars were out and celebrating during Oscars experience to our customers. Looking ahead, Mindful of firms’ travel budgets, the retailer weekend, from the pre-parties in the Hollywood we are dedicated to remaining one of the best said it will host its annual analysts’ meeting in Hills to the red carpet at the Kodak Theatre. capitalized retailers and continuing to show our New York on April 22 instead of Plano, Tex., as Donna Karan customers why they should choose J.C. Penney it has in the past. above all others.” The company ended the year with cash in- Classified Advertisements...... 30-31 Ullman told Wall Street analysts during a con- of $2.4 billion and long-term debt of To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is ference call, “We are well positioned to navigate $3.5 billion. It has no debt maturities in 2009, a [email protected], using the individual’s name. through an economic environment that remains $500 million maturity in 2010 that can be retired WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 very challenging. By continu- using existing cash on its FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. ing to focus on our Bridge Plan, For more on the company’s balance sheet, and no ma- VOLUME 197, NO. 39 . WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with we’ll be able to handle the initiatives, see WWD.com turities in 2011. one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in April, June and August, three additional issues in March and September, and four additional issues in February) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR Earnings Season to Test Retail Lows SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new By Alexandra Steigrad and Matthew Lynch shedding 6.2 percent, or 484.74 points. The Dow and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks is down almost 50 percent in the last 16 months. after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Where is the bottom for retail stocks The S&P 500 fell below 800 for the first time this Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, as the broader market sinks deeper into a six- year to close the week at 770.05, down 6.9 percent visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that year low? or 56.79 points. offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or In a brutal week for the broader market, the John Lonski, chief economist for Moody’s information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, S&P Retail Index fared slightly better, closing the Investor Services, said retailers could begin to UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, week down 11.81 points, or 4.5 percent, to 249.64. see better news by way of increased consumer AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, Market experts said the decline may be in- spending after June or July, when unemploy- ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS dicative of more to come, especially as retail ment should peak. For now, retailers with strong SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. earnings season shifts into high gear in the com- balance sheets and cash on hand are attractive ing weeks, with few companies expected to an- to investors. nounce positive news as the recession deepens. “If I put money on the retail world, I would Mark Arbeter, chief technical strategist at focus on the financially strongest retailers,” DAILY They [the Santa Monica Standard & Poor’s, said the S&P Retail Index he said, referring to companies like Wal-Mart “ might not hit bottom for months and could test Stores Inc. QUote police] gave me a bed 10 its low of 213.5 on Nov. 20, 2008. Standard & Poor’s Arbeter agreed it will be “Market lows are defined by testing, not hit- later in the year before retail stocks hit any sort years ago. I asked them for two pillows and ting bottom,” he said, stressing that “bear-market of a bottom. Some signs of a possible start to re- laws” are characterized by stocks not reacting to covery would be if the S&P Retail Index remains they said f--k off. But I thank them now. bad news. above its 2009 high of 301.62 points in January Amid fears about the stability of U.S. banks for two to six months, he said. — on accepting the best” actor and effectiveness of the government’s $787 bil- “I would say that this scenario would prob- award at the Independent Spirit Awards in the lion economic recovery plan, the Dow Jones ably not unfold until the second half of 2009,” Industrial Average dropped to 7365.67 last week, he said. run-up to the Oscars. Page 19.

TODAY ON coming this week Ashton MONDAY: Fashion fourth-quarter and year-end • Zale Corp. reports second- Kutcher WWD.com Week continues sales and earnings. quarter sales and earnings. • More images from the Oscars (through Tuesday). • Nordstrom Inc. reports WEDNESDAY: Retail Advertising THURSDAY: China International red carpet and after parties fourth-quarter and year-end Conference, Las Vegas & Accessories Fair, • Ongoing coverage of London Fashion sales and earnings. (through Friday). Beijing (through March 3). Week, including reviews, • Australian Swim Fashion • Gap Inc. and Kohl’s Corp. parties and Fashion Scoops TUESDAY: CPM Collection Week, Queensland, Australia report fourth-quarter and Première Moscow (through Saturday). year-end sales and earnings. • Full runs of show from the New York (through Friday). • Women’s Fashion and London collections • The Conference Board Week (through March 4). FRIDAY: Milanovendamoda, williamson • Videos of the key New York collections releases the Consumer • Limited , Saks Milan (through March 2). Confidence Index for January. Inc., TJX Cos., True Religion todd • Backstage beauty reports

by Iconix Brand Group, Apparel and Tween Brands re- SUNDAY: Cloud Nine, Neozone, • and images from London Macy’s Inc., Steven Madden port fourth-quarter and Touch and White, Milan hoto

P • WWDTrend: Ltd. and Target Corp. report year-end sales and earnings. (through March 3). WWD, monday, february 23, 2009 3 WWD.COM

For more on Coach’s strategy, see WWD.com.

Accessories from Coach’s Poppy collection.

Coach Seeks Broader Audience With Poppy By Sophia Chabbott Poppy as a new opportunity,” he said. “It’s going to excite the existing Coach cus- tomer, as well as draw in a lot of age groups. It’s been a fun exploration of who the The executives at Coach are looking at the bright side of the Coach woman can be.” dreary fiscal predicament. The line will be promoted in store windows starting this but will be mer- The New York-based accessories brand is offering a new collection, Poppy, with chandised in with the full Coach assortment. a more youthful attitude and broader price range. Bright colors, prints, sequins and Krakoff said many of his peers find themselves in a predicament in this challeng- rainbows of crystals are just some of the design elements offered in the collection, ing recession: whether to offer classic goods or rev up collections with daring con- which retails from $198 to $598. The average Coach sells for about $500. cepts. His goal is to bridge the two directions. The collection is not quite a departure for the brand, but rather an extension, ac- “It’s a delicate balance,” he said. “Of course, you don’t want to be too trendy, but cording to president and executive creative director Reed Krakoff. “Poppy offers a that’s nothing new for Coach. But you can’t cop out and just be classic. It’s not going different attitude that is younger in spirit,” he said. “It’s playful, with more prints, to inspire people. You need to keep it wearable and understandable and have a great interesting fabrics and more experimentation. [These ideas] are always countered quality and price value relationship.” with a more classic shape or a more traditional construction.” Coach is credited with a focus on “accessible luxury,” but the paradigms of luxury The line is cohesive but has a diverse range of items, from a tote covered in a pro- and fashion have shifted, Krakoff explained. fusion of red sequins to “Gossip Girl”-worthy to pochettes covered in strands of “To me, luxury is the culmination of thoughtful design. I don’t know what luxury gold beads. There is also , , eyewear and select apparel items such means anymore to people,” he said. “A lot of people give Lew [Frankfort, Coach chair- as in the collection, which debuts in July in Coach boutiques, department man and chief executive officer] credit for coining the term ‘accessible luxury.’ Like stores, including Bloomingdale’s and Macy’s, and on coach.com. anything that starts out as a good idea, it gets overused. It’s meaningless in its former Krakoff was adamant the line isn’t trend-driven, but it is sensitive to the mood of definition. Prices need to make sense. Shopping has to be fun. People are in a store the season. He does not consider it a either. “We feel very good about for a reason. They want to be transported.” Luella Bartley Label Matures Under New President By Samantha Conti Gisele bags, boy’s-style and running horse or name logo. Luella skinny to consolidate and Luella’s silhouettes have also gotten slimmer for LONDON — She’s still got the East Bartley build the business. fall. The designer, who has channeled everyone wicked End studio, the Brit hippie look and Although he did not supply witches, British aristocrats and Mick Jagger for past col- some of the coolest friends in town, sales projections, Rimbert said the lections, has said that while her basic reference points but 35-year-old designer Luella “vast majority” of sales potential remain the same, she’s slowly moving to a more sophis- Bartley is proudly growing up. lies in rtw, which Bartley launched ticated place. Together with Club 21, Bartley’s in 1999. He and Bartley are focus- Since the spring, the price range of the collection global licensee for ready-to-wear ing on the details, and what they has expanded to reflect the improvements, and the line and accessories, the designer has call “individual” luxury, that’s not is being positioned alongside such labels as Miu Miu tightened her operations, ramped about showing off. “We want to and Chloé. The entry price is about 200 pounds retail, up the quality of the collections and speak to the customer through the or $290, for a or a with detail- begun taking a more commercial ap- little things,” Bartley said. ing. It sells at Liberty, Harvey Nichols, Harrods, Colette proach to the market. According to industry sources, and Printemps. Luella has a temporary shop-in-shop at Last summer, the label took on the label’s estimated turnover is Galeries Lafayette, which will remain open until March its first-ever president, Frenchman about 9 million pounds, or $13 mil- 15. The label also has a limited distribution in the U.S. Regis Rimbert, formerly of and lion at current exchange. Rimbert Rimbert said the brand is still serious about leather , whose mandate is to take said his priority is not -line goods. Designer Katie Hillier has returned to the label, Luella to the next level. growth, but rather securing a long- starting with the fall accessories collection. In addition, “We’ve been working to give term strategy. He also said there Bartley is collaborating with Georgina Goodman on a small Luella a proper, long-term vision were no immediate plans to ex- footwear collection called Luella by Georgina Goodman. and strategy, and to bring stability to pand into new product areas such Luella got its first big boost from the Gisele bag, the brand,” said Rimbert. So far, he’s as fragrance and eyewear. which Bartley designed for Mulberry in 2002, a year made changes to the manufacturing Although her collaborations before Club 21 became the label’s global licensee and and supply chain, and helped the designer hone her ap- with Target and sports brand O’Neill — Bartley and her distributor. While that bag is still a Luella staple, the proach to her customers. partner, the photographer David Sims, are passionate designer is putting the focus on new silhouettes, such as “In the past, it was about creating the right image, surfers — have come to an end, there could be more in the rounded, napa leather Flower Bag, for spring. following the right trends, but I don’t feel that pressure the future. “We’ll look at the commercial opportunities Last year, Bartley, a mother of three who counts Stella anymore,” said Bartley. “I have more confidence now. I that come our way, and we’ll continue to do collabora- McCartney, Kate Moss, Katie Grand and Giles Deacon can focus on catering to my customers’ lifestyles as op- tions,” said Rimbert. among her close pals, won the British Fashion Council’s posed to following the rest of the market.” Bartley said the company is improving everything coveted Designer of the Year Award. “I’m very proud to One of Rimbert’s first moves was to shift all manu- from the basic materials to the workmanship. The knit- have come to this point. For me, it used to be about con- facturing from the Far East to Europe. As of fall 2009, wear collection is going to grow, too, with Luella offer- sciously putting together a ‘cool’ exterior image. But now the collections will be made in factories in Italy. Going ing a larger variety of colors. They’re also paying more it seems the more we play the more cool the collection forward, he also plans to focus on the pillars of Luella’s attention to the finer points, branding the zipper pulls, naturally gets. I really have the freedom now to design, collections, such as riding , cocktail , buttons and handbag locks with Luella’s signature heart, and I guess you could say I’m coming of age,” she said. 4 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2009 WWD.COM Financial Pressure Mounts at Barneys

Continued from page one The questions surrounding Barneys Barneys appears current on its bills. are twofold, he said: “Is the retailer being New York “I’m not commenting,” David Jackson, chief execu- sold?” and “How bad are they getting hit tive officer of Istithmar said Friday when asked about by the slowdown in the luxury market?” the factors. “I’m on the road at the moment. I was just One financial source said he doesn’t be- on a flight for 14 hours.” lieve the retailer is “seriously up for sale.” Jackson suggested calling Barneys’ headquarters, but Considering the economic backdrop, there’s no one clearly in charge there. Since the depar- “now is not the time to sell Barneys,” the ture of former ceo Howard Socol, the store is being run source concluded. He also added, “But if by a committee of five veteran executive vice presidents someone had a billion [dollars] to spend on the merchandising, marketing and financial sides. and was willing to use it to buy Barneys, I Rosenthal & Rosenthal and Hilldun Corp. are said to could see the retailer being sold.” be among the factors that last week stopped approving “Barneys still has cachet. They didn’t orders. Rosenthal & Rosenthal could not be reached for break their prices as early as others did, comment and Hilldun declined comment. and their buying team is very good. The However, factoring sources said the decision to stop retailer has a unique mix and a certain approving orders to Barneys was only temporary until style edge. In the long run, it is still a great the retailer provides more information on its finances franchise,” said Gary Wassner, president and plans. The update is expected to come at the begin- of factoring firm Hilldun Corp. For more on the company’s finances, see WWD.com. ning of March. “The luxury market is hurting as much as Meanwhile, executives at major fashion houses said any other sector at this point,” said Stanley they are continuing to ship to the store. “Barneys is Officina, president of factoring firm Ultimate current [on its payments] and shipable,” said Patrick Financial Solutions. in Beverly Hills. Guadagno, president of Versace in the U.S. “It’s busi- “I don’t care if the consumer is in the upper tier of As far as closing any flagships, “Landlords will never ness as usual.” the financial strata or in the lower middle class. It let them out,” said one private equity executive. “These One designer who requested doesn’t matter. When you have stock market are custom-built stores. Who is going to move in? There anonymity said the store paid this season. volatility, word of Bernie Madoff ’s Ponzi are no large tenants in the market right now.” Major stores have been good on their schemes and the scandal involving attor- The smaller Co-op units could more readily be re- payments, but some smaller indepen- ney Marc Dreier and the [alleged fraud] placed by specialty chains. dent retailers are facing challenges in by Sir Robert Allen Stanford, people get One financial source said factors have been skittish paying, the designer said. David scared,” said Officina. “No one knows about Barneys for about a month. “There’s not enough Executives at many smaller fash- Jackson where to put their money or where to cash flow to pay their bills on time and Dubai won’t put ion firms said they, too, were get- spend it. And then they think, ‘Maybe any more cash in,” the source said. ting paid, although at least one said we shouldn’t have spent as much as we Barneys was being shopped around without any price payment was slower than usual. were spending,’” Officina expects the fixed. Private equity groups in the U.S. and Europe have One factor said a temporary slowdown to continue, noting, “We’ve been approached, but it’s more a case of Barneys en- halt on approving spring orders been there before....Companies that are tertaining offers. None came close to what Istithmar is has more to do with wanting to know nimble, no matter what their size, can ad- seeking. The Dubai equity fund paid over $900 million what Barneys’ owner has in mind for just and be survivors.” for the business, which is currently believed to be worth the future of the chain. He explained One source close to Barneys said: “I don’t half or less that. that, essentially, factors just want to know think the sky is collapsing. Some factors tend to In November, Moody’s Investors Service down- “how much ongoing support Barneys will get from be more conservative than vendors.” Asked if Barneys graded Barneys’ debt, citing weaker-than-expected Istithmar going forward.” might try to close some of its stores, the source replied, operating performance and debt-protection measures If the information is satisfactory, orders will start “Not at this point. I don’t think that’s in the cards.” since the company was purchased in September 2007 being approved in March, factors said. Closing any of the retailer’s larger full-line boxes, by Istithmar, which is controlled by the Dubai govern- A second factor said when these kinds of decisions considered flagships would be very difficult, as opposed ment. Istithmar purchased Barneys from the Jones are made, paying the bills is just one criterion in the to Barneys’ smaller Co-op specialty stores. Apparel Group Inc. for $942.3 million, or about 15 times decision-making process. In the last three years, flagships have been erected EBITDA, which at the time was between $50 million “Are you making any money? Is the cash flow sustain- in San Francisco, Dallas, Las Vegas and Boston, which to $60 million. Companies are currently being sold able? Are the bills paid with borrowed funds or from are said to be performing poorly. In addition, replace- at much lower multiples, and sources estimated that, cash flow from operations?” he asked, adding that an- ment units were established in Seattle and Chicago, two given the recession, Barneys’ EBITDA is likely to be swers to these questions help decide whether to take on markets where Barneys is said to be doing OK. The most much lower than a year ago. risk and extend credit. successful flagships are the Madison Avenue store and — With contributions from Jean Scheidnes MEMO PAD IN STYLE’S NEW LEADER: In Style poached publisher Katherine Rizzuto. court in the front row with judges Michael June 2010 create a high probability of a a Vogue veteran to succeed Lynette Harrison In Style’s new sales execs join after the Kors and Nina Garcia, who is now fashion restructuring to occur within the next 12 to to be its next publisher. Connie Anne brand’s makeover last year, which included director at Marie Claire, and guest judge 18 months. — Amy Wicks Phillips, who spent 14 years at the Condé a redesign and a new managing editor, Ariel Suzy Menkes, the fashion critic for the Nast Publications title, most recently as Foxman. Newsstand sales for the magazine International Herald Tribune. The front row REPLACEMENT FOR REALITY: While “Project managing director, will take the helm at have grown at a time when most titles have also included John Varvatos, Marie Claire Runway” sits in limbo, Bravo is eager to In Style today. Harrison resigned from her reported declines. For the second half of publisher Susan Plagemann, and New York create more fashion-related reality shows. post last month and left last week. Phillips 2008, total paid and verified circulation Observer owner Jared Kushner, who sat with The cable network revealed its latest was a close deputy of Vogue senior vice grew 2 percent to 1.8 million, with single- his sister. A smattering of “” competition series on the same day as the president and group publisher Tom Florio, copy sales jumping 6 percent. Advertising, alumni dotted the crowd, including season season six finale show of “Project Runway” spending eight years as Vogue’s associate however, have slid so far in 2009 as the five winner and season one wrapped up. “The Fashion Show” will be publisher before being named managing recession takes a bite out of revenues for winner Jay McCarroll. a competition for the chance to have the director. Phillips resigned from Vogue on the entire magazine business. According At least one person found the show’s winning designer’s clothes for sale at a Friday morning. to Media Industry Newsletter, pages at In anonymity a blessing. , major retail chain. creative “Connie Anne’s deep knowledge of the Style through the March issue have fallen the season four winner who produced his director and former Destiny’s category, coupled with her tremendous 29 percent, to 436. Her former magazine, first runway show the night before, said Child singer Kelly Rowland will be the hosts, range of experience in sales, marketing, Vogue, saw a 28 percent drop in paging, not knowing the designers beforehand and IMG’s will be the judge. and creative services, makes her an ideal registering 563 ad pages through March. allowed him to focus on the clothes and Mallis has already appeared on “Project fit for this position,” said Paul Caine, Time — Stephanie D. Smith judge them on merit rather than the Runway” as a guest judge. The program will Inc.’s Style and Entertainment Group designer’s popularity. He hoped that would air later this year. — S.D.S. president and group publisher. “In addition FACES IN THE CROWD: While flamboyant help edit less-talented designers from the to her extraordinary relationships, the contestants and celebrity guest judges have competition. “Every year, there’s always NO BOCA THIS YEAR: The annual American overwhelming industry support for Connie added flair to past “Project Runway” finale a weed or two that manages to make it Magazine Conference has been canceled Anne is truly impressive.” shows at Bryant Park, the season six finale through ‘Project Runway’,” he said, without as a result of the economic climate and the Meanwhile, Florio promoted two of his had little of it — largely due to the fact that naming names. — S.D.S. growing woes of magazines. The three-day advertising directors to associate publishers the designers who made the looks strolling function, generally made up of speeches, to fill the vacancy left by Phillips: Lottie down the runway were kept under lock and RDA DOWNGRADED AGAIN: Reader’s panels and media boozing, was to be held in Oakley and Tim O’Connor. Oakley has been key backstage. Because season six has yet Digest Association fell several notches Boca Raton, Fla., in October. The Magazine the ad director for Vogue’s European and to air, and won’t as long as the program further into junk territory on Friday, when Publishers of America will instead host a American fashion business since July 2006; is involved in a lawsuit between NBC Moody’s Investors Service downgraded the one-day innovation-focused event in New O’Connor oversaw Vogue’s retail and non- Universal and “Project Runway” producers company’s probability of default rating three York on a date to be announced. Last year’s endemic business. The Weinstein Co., the identities of the notches to Caa3, from B3. The company’s conference in San Francisco was already Phillips isn’t the only Vogue executive finalists were kept secret. senior subordinated note rating also fell to a lower-profile event, though the event did joining In Style. In an unrelated move, That meant muted enthusiasm from Ca from Caa2 and its senior secured credit score a coup three years ago, when The executive beauty director Toria Garrett the crowd, a point even “Project Runway” rating dropped three notches to Caa2 from New Yorker editor David Remnick interviewed will join the Time Inc. title in the role of host acknowledged. “I’m a little B2. Moody’s said $2.1 billion in debt is onstage then-Sen. . The news advertising director, beauty and lifestyle. bit sad for our designers that they don’t affected, noting “earnings erosion and of the cancellation was first reported on She will report to In Style associate get that recognition today.” Klum held covenant step downs” in June 2009 and Mediaweek’s Web site Friday. — Irin Carmon our bags are always high fashion get noticed - we make the best shopping bags RTRR Packaging : the ultimate shop for custom designed packaging call today to schedule a showroom appointment

(800) 972 7489 new york | los angeles | (800) 972 7489 | [email protected] 6 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2009 American Splendor

collections/fall NEW ’09 YORK

Ralph Lauren: I do what I do. That favorite credo of Ralph Lauren is both respected industrywide, because what he’s done over the past 40-plus years is pretty terrific, and spoofed on occasion, because if you can’t knock a guy when he’s up, you’re probably in the wrong industry. On Friday morning, the designer proved once again why the respect will always trump the teasing. This was Lauren at his absolute best — which is to say, fabulous. Lauren’s models exited via a grand archway, strolling beneath the glow of three massive crystal chandeliers. The first out wore spare black, the better to highlight the designer’s impressive new watches. But then the palette transitioned to light — a glorious mélange of pale grays, silvers, taupes and ivories, the tweeds flecked with pastels. Often rooted in the mannish tailoring Lauren loves, the day clothes were anchored by tony tweeds, including a pair of fabulous patchwork toppers. Yet the takeaway was plenty feminine, its mood derived via rhinestone buttons, wrapped in imprecise fluffs at the neck and from an assortment of dusty pink sweaters. As for the outerwear — amazing, whether in a simple herringbone or a lavishly embroidered hooded shearling. For evening, Lauren conjured a range of refined types: ballerina, deb, au courant bright young thing, girls united in their high-brow opulence. Throughout, he kept the embellishment considerable. Preshow, he had cited a mood of romantic luxury. True enough, as far as it went. But on the last day of this most peculiar New York season, his show seemed like something more than a lineup of breathtaking clothes. Consciously or otherwise, it delivered to the American industry a dazzling visual pep talk from its most powerful designer, someone who has been through booms, busts and Wall Street woes before and has always come out more than fine on the other side. Lauren’s message, loud and clear: Do what you do, the best you can, no matter what. He knows what he’s talking about. WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2009 7 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS RALPH’S FRONT ROW: The “Gossip Girl” cast is typically a lot more visible during New York Fashion Week. But this season, the stars have been working too hard at their actual jobs to have much time for the collections. Leighton Meester made only one appearance, at on Wednesday, and Blake Lively chose Ralph Lauren’s Friday show as her sole fashion week outing. “We’ve been working 17-hour days,” said Lively. “And I have to go back to work right after this.” The blonde actress chose to attend the Ralph Lauren show, she said, because she wears his clothes often and “I love layering the pieces. You could wear it 10 years from now and it still looks classic. He dresses for every age.” Case in point — Laura Dern, who is 20 years Lively’s senior and was seated further down the row. “I wore his stuff at 14 and into my 30s,” said Dern, who has known Lauren since he did the for 1974’s “The Great Gatsby” in which her father, Bruce Dern, appeared as Tom Buchanan. Meanwhile, David Lauren maneuvered the Blake front row in crutches with one leg in a leg brace. Lively “I stepped off the curb and into a hole and broke my ankle,” he said.

FIRST, HE TAKES : It turns out that the Bryant Park tents don’t have a monopoly on rowdy mobs this week. Hundreds of ticket holders pushed and shoved their way into the Beacon Theatre on Thursday night for Leonard Cohen’s sold-out concert. It was the first time the legendary musician had played in the U.S. in 15 years. “Since then, I’ve had a lot of Prozac, Wellbutrin, Ritalin, Tylenol extra-strength,” Cohen deadpanned. “I studied the philosophies, but cheerfulness kept breaking through.” Who would have guessed that the melancholic sound man had a sense of humor? He even skipped on- and offstage during his three-hour set. It seems the meds must be working. Cohen will tour the U.S. starting with a show in Austin on April 2 and stopping in Oakland, Calif.; Seattle, Chicago, Boston and Indio, Calif., for the Coachella Valley Music & Arts Festival.

ZAC’S RHAPSODY: Despite the exile of most Coco A-List celebs to awards-central Los Angeles, Rocha ’s front row Thursday still landed some star wattage. Longtime fan Claire Danes was joined by Nicole Richie, Sandra Bernhard, Alicia Keyes and Ellen von Unwerth. Actress Rachel Bilson was hitting her last show this week. She was planning on attending Brian Reyes’ after party postshow, before catching a 5 a.m. flight back to Los Angeles the next morning — amid rumors of her engagement to longtime beau Hayden Christensen. “I’m not really saying either-or right now,” said Bilson, whose left hand was noticeably ring-free. The starlets weren’t the only ones getting attention at the show. When model Coco Rocha took her turn on the runway, a photographer in the pit shouted “Now, that’s a woman!” at her, causing the audience to break out in laughter. Ever professional, Rocha responded with a sly smile, though she later confided backstage that she hadn’t understood the snapper’s catcall. “I thought he was being cheeky, so I smiled,” Rocha said. “Then everyone started laughing, and I got worried and did a body check to make sure the clothes were still on.” All the commotion didn’t distract The 5 Browns, who provided a live soundtrack on a series of Steinway pianos on the runway. The siblings made their fashion-show debut, and were impressed with the stylish crowd. “I was amazed,” Melody Brown said. “They were so attentive, and they were listening and also looking at the clothes.” She and her two sisters, Desirae and Deondra, even got to wear custom-made Posen creations, but since the designer has no men’s wear yet, brothers Greg and Ryan had to make do with .

MILLA’S MAN: Roberto Cavalli has asked the much-hyphenated model- actress-designer-singer to be the godmother at the gala hinsee

C dinner and party he will be throwing in Milan on Sunday to mark the launch of his first MasterCard. Elizabeth Hurley will also be a guest at the For all eorge bash, to be held the evening of Cavalli’s show during Milan Fashion Week. collections’ RUSSIAN VIEW: Though their economy seems to lose a billionaire a day, complete run Russian retailers were still on the show circuit, albeit with an adjusted perspective. “It’s not easy. We are, of course in a very difficult situation,” of show, see said Alla Verber, vice president of Mercury Distribution, which franchises WWD.com. designer boutiques in , from Ralph Rucci’s front row. “The crisis here

THOMAS IANNACCONE AND G came to our country, too, but we started with a very strong spring. Sales are fine, but we have to be more careful.” While Verber said cutting back on designers is crucial, she named Ralph Rucci and J.Mendel as favorites and expressed increased interest in the contemporary and young designer market, with an eye toward Jason Wu. “I want to do a big story with STEVE EICHNER,

BY and new designers,” said Verber. “I met [Wu] and I want to do a story with him and windows.”

PHOTOS For more Scoops, see page 22 8 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2009

collections/fall ’09

NEW L’Wren Scott s YORK

Chado Ralph Rucci WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2009 9 WWD.COM

Zac Posen Zac Posen mitra iannaccone and robert thomas centeno, talaya photos by

Chado Ralph Rucci: If Ralph Rucci’s clothes aren’t for everyone — and they’re not Posen’s runway is always an extravaganza of girly glam, as over-the-top as New intended to be — they go above and beyond to satisfy his loyal clients and their York fashion gets. His approach makes for lots of fun, if not always a lot of sense. very high standards. That said, for fall, and without compromising on quality, Rucci This season, moments of pretty sanity tempered the mayhem, some of it approach- seemed to be making an effort to create more approachable versions of his styles, ing chic. Among the hits: , including a silvery metallic jacquard and a romantic, with appealing results. big-collared number in gray felt. Posen also showed a restrained wool sheath and an His trademarks — exotic skins, braided leathers and Asian references — were appealing tailored or two. all there, but instead of piling them on in one complicated look after another, But Posen’s heart just isn’t with the 9-to-5 set. He’s a social guy whose primary in- Rucci toned down the grandeur, showing sparingly decorated, relatively simple terest is in designing for social girls with a theatrical bent. True, though a few frocks silhouettes. Rich, double-faced cashmere and wool were cut into sophisticated were relatively low-key — a violet charmer with a posy at the neck; a flirty and dresses, some trimmed with patent leather or spliced with curving chiffon micro-floral tied at the — many more flaunted the demonstrative gestures for inserts — just one of his classic, geometric effects done with a lighter hand. Others, which he’s known, with sweeping trains, significantly endowed shoulders and such as a smart, graphic black-and-white shift, channeled a Mod-ish mood. big splashes of fanciful floral sequins. They made for entertaining viewing, and if a While Rucci’s wool jersey dresses, always understated, were abundant, the few too many won’t cross the threshold to reality, there was some legitimately strong, collection wasn’t all austere. The designer also served up fabulous furs, as in sable polished eveningwear among the showpieces. sewn onto a silk tulle coat, and a pink-and-black collage that added a splash of color to the largely black and brown lineup. As for evening — it too felt more relaxed L’Wren Scott: A L’Wren Scott event is one of the most eagerly awaited and civilized thanks to filmy silk dresses, flounced at the waist or trailing with feathers. Of course, presentations of the week. Undoubtedly, it’s the winning combination of the Rucci couldn’t resist his signature grand gesture — the photo-printed evening dress. perfectly executed lunch, a quick fashion show that starts on time and star Here, his subjects were 7th-century Khmer statues, their images emblazoned on wattage without the fanfare. Dustin and Lisa Hoffman; Kyra Sedgwick; Scott’s gowns. A high-minded motif to be sure, but one that keeps Rucci’s clients calling. boyfriend, Mick Jagger, and his son, Gabriel, were all on hand to see her lineup of unapologetically body-conscious coats and sheaths or severely cut suits in leather, Zac Posen: Welcome to camp Posen. It’s an out-there, fantastical place where Joan silk or wool, inspired, explained the designer, by “the changing leaves and bare Crawford and Eliza Doolittle exchange froth recipes and parade about in their big- trees that I see outside the window from my office.” Her palette of dark greens shouldered, bustled-up best. And where, by the way, the designer knows a fine way and blacks, spiked with red, did indeed reflect the designer’s ideas for fall, as did to treat a Steinway, or five, as he recruited the sibling phenomenon The 5 Browns to the sensual and sinuous lines of the clothes. But she generously made room for body perform during the show. types other than her own with more fluid long coats and even a or two. 10 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2009 WWD.COM Hayden-Harnett more from the shows... Mackage: Eran Elfassy and Elisa Dahan celebrated Mackage’s 10th anniversary with its first runway Douglas show, featuring sensible men’s and women’s Hannant outerwear, the best of which included shaped leather jackets and a handsome .

Douglas Hannant: Douglas Hannant did a 180 from his frothy spring collection with a strong focus on sporty day looks, such as a camel and gray herringbone knit dress or coat worn over a cashmere sheath.

Adrienne Landau: Adrienne Landau knows how to cut a ladylike fur — such as her Eighties-ish, leopard-printed rabbit A-line coat — but she also knows how to inject plenty of fun, adding a blue- dyed fox collar to a wine Mongolian lamb jacket or putting studded leather cuffs on a raccoon version.

Leifsdottir: Johanna Uurasjarvi evoked collections/fall the mysterious aura of French Gothic architecture in a romantic ’09 — at times garish — collection for Anthropologie’s sister label, working a dark palette and vintage touches

NEW t like lace and cavalry-esque buttons into Adrienne Landau Mackage YORK ruffled tops and dresses, cozy cardigans and tailored and pants.

Jen Kao t Naeem Khan: Naeem Khan designs to Hayden-Harnett: What started off as a quiet accessories brand dazzle, and he succeeded this season with launched by Toni Hacker and Ben Harnett four years ago some of the most perfectly cut, lavishly has expanded considerably — from to clothes, embellished gowns and short little dresses swimwear, outerwear and shoes. The theme of the fall in town, like a silver sequined sheath, a collection, shown at the Chelsea Hotel, was a cargo cult. metallic-embroidered short caftan and a tiered In an elaborate tableau replete with antiques and candles, strapless beaded beauty. models lounged in the duo’s vintage-inspired patchwork suede jackets, vests and skirts, toggled trenchcoats and Custo Barcelona: Loud and proud, Custo Dalmau’s little Peter Pan-collared dresses, accessorized with their fall collection was intense, and while a striped Seventies-style bags and shoes. But it wasn’t easy to see the tinsel skirt or a Lurex tweed might not appeal clothes; at times, the setting overwhelmed them. to everyone, other pieces like playful, beaded minidresses and supercool sequin could be Jen Kao: Jen Kao said she wanted to explore “the strength of great for a girl with pizzazz. shapes” — in particular, prisms, pyramids, and triangles — and she delivered a wearable, and sometimes remarkable, Tadashi Shoji: Sculpted shoulders and a petal lesson in geometry, from subtle paneling on and motif put a gentle, romantic twist on Tadashi great minidresses to triangular sequins and metallic shards Shoji’s collection of clean cocktail attire. on a gorgeous V-neck gown. Next time, though, Kao might want to rethink the hooded effects and athletic-inspired materials, Stephen Burrows: Gray pinstriped suits which detracted from an otherwise-inventive outing. lent an off-to-the-office vibe at Stephen Burrows, who updated the look by working exposed zippers onto skirts; IANNACCONE the silhouettes, all nipped waists and strong shoulders, were chic, along with Custo a few excellent superbright jackets and Leifsdottir Barcelona easy jersey dresses. t Rad Hourani Iisli: Sisi Li added some great layering pieces, such as graphic black-and- white and a terrific oversize- coat, to her lineup of GIANNONI AND THOMAS GIOVANNI signature sparkly knits.

Alabama Chanin: Natalie Chanin offered thick organic cotton separates for Alabama Chanin with tonal patchwork and

embroidery details, as in a gray beaded skirt ERICKSEN, CHINSEE, KYLE with cutouts paired with a T- and cropped that was country-cozy but cute enough for the city.

Kai Kühne: With geometry on the brain, Kai Kühne sent out a dignified lineup that either

hugged the body or mannishly concealed it, GEORGE CENTENO, TALAYA both styles featuring spot-on tailoring.

Libertine: Mixing a heavier assortment of vintage Project Runway: The sixth season of “Project Runway” doesn’t one-offs with production line pieces, Johnson have an air date yet, thanks to a legal dispute among the Hartig and Cindy Greene proved their wit was producers and networks, but the final episode filmed Friday still intact with charming school-tie and was (as usual) more about the spectacle than the clothes. trompe l’oeil suits, many topped with prim coats and

To wit: Some editors were bumped to the seventh row, adorned with whimsical patches, crochet flowers or JOHN AQUINO, ANTONOV, PASHA

while TV Guide was front and center. “This is lame,” one their signature screen prints. Tadashi Naeem BY audience member complained about the guest judge, Suzy Shoji Khan

Menkes. “They really should have gotten a celebrity.” But Rad Hourani: On his latest trip to the dark side, Rad PHOTOS nevertheless, there was a little fashion — three collections Hourani punched up a devilishly chic collection with by finalists whose names and faces couldn’t be revealed. a few sequins, a bit of heavy metal and a moody midnight Terexov: Alexander Terekhov’s classy outing featured The first, a city-cool lineup that featured belted jackets blue — a departure from his black-on-black standard — mididresses with a glamorous evening bent and chic and shredded tank tops; the second was more frilly with a notably in a cool combo of a sleeveless coat over a silk daytime looks, such as an oversize cashmere coat worn over sculptural bent, as shown in a bizarre layered tulle cone- ruffle and leather strip pants. a wool vest and pegged pants. shaped skirt. But they saved the best for last: a hard-edged collection with a strong linear motif. Straps and panels of Toni Maticevski: Australian designer Toni Maticevski Tony Cohen: In a run-of-the-mill collection of flouncy leather, silk and wool were manipulated into slick skinny presented dramatic evening and cocktail dresses, using lots and dresses over leather tights, the best pieces pants, complex sweaters and great coats. of sequins, lace and feathers, though the short frocks were were surprisingly urbane — raw suede and merino coats his strongest. with asymmetric hems. ADVERTISEMENT the FEBRUARY 23, 2009 RUNWAY REPORT

It’s o cial. New York’s Fall/ 2009 Runway shows are an unqualifi ed hit. Designers mixed DooVerrier Ri optimism and fashion smarts to produce relevant fashion collections with a sharp focus. From newcomers to fashion’s big guns, designers came out swinging while the whole world watched. As the season’s fresh new looks emerged, fashion editors and retailers quickly caught onto the designers’ optimistic message and it became evident that fur continues to be an important part of the fashionable and well-lived life. Designers used fur to reinforce their fashion message with casual and dressed-up looks in oversized jackets and coats, vests, boleros, trapper’s , boas and fur collar rings. Glorious colored fur added both fun and drama to the season’s fashion story. Once again, fur is at the forefront.

J. Mendel Michael Catherine Kors Malandrino

an oversized smoky blue mink worn with a draped blue satin dress while a lush beige deco argente mink trench evoked the glamour and zeitgeist of the Eighties. Cocktails anyone? Doo Ri Designer Doo Ri Chung brought a new attitude to her Fall/Winter 2009 collection. Known for her sensual twisted and draped time in DayGlo-colored mink. For evening, jersey dresses, Chung added a sexy new J. Mendel Kors traded in his usual red carpet gowns for edge with a smoky color palette — violet, Gilles Mendel, a designer with an intel- Designer Michael Kors has an unerring eye chic knee-grazing styles. Kors broadened his plum, gunmetal and silver — and frankly lectual approach to fashion, cuts and crafts and an uncanny sense of timing. His Fall/ appeal this season, offering his customer a sexy accessories, including liquid gunmetal his impeccable designs with an artisan’s Winter 2009 collection hit all the right new persona that’s confi dent, sexy and ready chain and crystal-touched sheer precision. This season, he infused his luxu- notes with fi nely tailored power suits with for anything. lace hose. A modernist designer, Chung rious collection with more daytime looks extended shoulders, scads of leather, slit-to- acknowledged a more diversifi ed vision as and a calming Japanese sensibility, offering there skirts and head-to-toe looks in black she explored the edgier side of sensuality, his customer sophisticated, collectible that conveyed confi dence with a soft, sexy Catherine Malandrino embellishing her signature liquid jersey styles. A white fawn frost fox vest with satin edge. Kors peppered the collection with the Catherine Malandrino’s alluring and dresses for day with fur stoles and shrugs, as border offered a sophisticated approach to tony tweeds and sporty herringbones that romantic collection — evocative of in a cream-and-white fox version shown over the season’s black-and-white story, as did his customer loves, but this season his sharp Era diva Josephine Baker, Surrealism, Paris a grey pleated jersey dress and, for evening, a reversible bolero in natural white mink. citifi ed chalk stripes also spoke of polish and the 1980s — offered smoky colorations in a dyed black goat jacket with strong Another take on white mink was a jacket and power. The collection was replete with featuring draping, mesh, crochet, satin, shoulders worn over a black jersey gown. A with dropped shoulders reversing to nylon chic outerwear, including his superb wool jersey and fur. With the waist as a focal point, black dyed goat-sleeved jacket mixed fur, that took the shell to a new level of luxury. coats with shoulder-bearing stand-up collars the designer focused on dress and coat looks sheer, shine and texture — all key elements Mendel married anthracite and aubergine — a nod to the season’s new focus on the that accentuated the female form. A silver in Chung’s important new message. mink with black leather ribbon strips and shoulder. Kors also took his furs in a bold new metallic leather motorcycle jacket with fashioned them into perfectly crafted jackets, direction with the help of Pologeorgis Furs. A broadtail lining and a noir leather motorcycle Oscar boleros and vests. A stardust broadtail and standout: a midnight blue satin sheath with jacket with fox collar brought a sexy edge de la Renta dyed black-cross mink fi tted jacket was sexy shoulder-accentuating silver fox sleeves. to her provocative fashion message. Clearly, and elegant. For evening, Mendel delivered Fox and mink were resplendent in both sexy Malandrino was in tune with fall’s big fur stunning silk georgette and damask gowns black and neon brights — hot pink, acid message, offering real beauties, including a in navy, burnt orange and mauve, often with green, DayGlo orange and chrome yellow. sexy, short, belted off-the-shoulder sorbet Mikado bow detailing. A Barguzine Russian Case in point: an acid-feathered fox fur coat fox jacket topping dramatic draped black sable cocoon coat epitomized Mendel’s and a black feathered fox sleeveless coat. The jersey cigarette pants. Colored fur, a big fall mainstay: modern luxury. sporty trapper’s was also revisited, this theme, got Malandrino’s moody touch in Oscar de la Renta’s customers love to dress up and his Fall/Winter collection was full of the polished styles his ladies expect — day dresses, suits and evening gowns — in rich textures, beautiful colorations and posh metallics. Known for beautiful fabrications, de la Renta expressed this in a black velvet mink and Swakara drawstring jacket with chinchilla collar worn with a black stretch silk twill pleated pant. A rich color palette of jewel tones — plum, violet, midnight blue and brights such as coral, raspberry and golden yellow — enlivened the story. A sensational standout among the richly colored beauties was an aubergine alpaca coat with stand-up collar and trumpet sleeves. The master of ultra-luxury, de la Renta didn’t disappoint with his double-faced feather sable coat and vest. As this decidedly polished collection demonstrated, de la Renta clearly knows how to please. THE NATURAL, RESPONSIBLE CHOICE

323.782.1700 www.fur.org 12 WWD, monday, february 23, 2009 Retailers Get Sense of Optimism From Shows

By David Moin Americans and many of us are actually energized de- Ann Watson, vice president and fashion director at Henri Bendel spite the prevailing news,” said Linda Fargo, senior Jason Wu and Peter Som were “a breath of fresh air. NEW YORK — If only the economy were better. vice president, fashion office and store presentation Each of their collections showcased a mix of colors and Retailers came to New York Fashion Week sheep- for Bergdorf Goodman. “We’re inspired enough to build patterns executed with a refreshing light hand.” In gen- ishly, knowing their budgets were down and expecting new tiers into our business. We found many of the de- eral for the week, “fashion went into four camps: the the mood to be somber. Many have slashed their open- signers delivered some of their most focused collections ‘aggressive warrior’ emphasizing tough, chic fashion to-buy by 20 percent or more after last season’s double- to date. We particularly applaud the younger guard for and black leather for a head-on approach to these tough digit sales declines. both their courage as well as their ability to combine times; the ‘eclectic gypsy’ with printed chiffon dresses But most concluded the week in a reflective, positive value with desirable design.” and chunky tweed knits for those [contemplating] a walk- mood, despite repeated days of depressing economic She said Bergdorf ’s was keen on one of the season’s about; the ‘refined, elegant lady’ with a covered-up look news that raised further concerns over whether con- prevailing messages. “It’s the new strong woman — like high-neck blouses, draped jersey dresses and longer sumers would even be shopping for clothes come fall, broad-shouldered, fierce, confident and looking like she lengths, and ‘the fashion optimist’ who loves color and and hopeful about what they saw — spirited collections, can handle anything.” the Eighties silhouette with big shoulders and full skirts a crop of new talent with promise that put the stamp “The new guard stepped it up by honing in on their and will not let the current climate get her down.” of individuality on the clothes, and some sense of com- own personal aesthetic and presenting collections that Other key trends, as cited by Watson, were: the state- mercial reality. had a strong voice and were very focused. Jason Wu, ment , including Kors’ oversize bicycle chain That bad rap that designers can often be outrageously Brian Reyes, Phi, Thakoon and Peter Som all exempli- and Lee Angel’s crystal-encrusted metal necks; status priced with impractical styles didn’t seem to apply for fall. fied this,” said Ann Watson, vice president and fashion scarves by , as well as clutches, wide belts, “New York designers are not out of touch,” contended director at Henri Bendel. “It is clear these designers lace tights, shoulder pads, black leather and skinny leg- Jeffrey Kalinsky, executive vice president and director have gotten to really know their customers better and gings; draped jersey dresses; “electric colored” cocktail of designer merchandising for Nordstrom Inc. “I was im- are giving her what she loves.” dresses; short swingy skirts; capes, and strong-shoul- pressed overall with what they turned out.…These are Though the consensus was the season rated an eight dered, tailored jackets. tough times, no question about that, and that business is or eight-and-a-half on a scale of 10, a few saw too much challenging. For me, it just means being a razor-sharp darkness on the runways. “Is all black going to help the Jeffrey Kalinsky, executive vice president and director editor and finding the best New York has to offer.” economy?” Marc Jacobs was quoted as saying. of designer merchandising at Nordstrom This season, Kalinsky said, designers showed “a lot Watson agreed there were too many dark clothes. “Marc Jacobs was a feast for the eyes and a tonic for the of product that looks really good and prices that reflect “The customer needs and wants color now more than spirit. There were so many great ideas and clothes here. the intrinsic value that the customer is going to be look- ever,” she said. It was sensory overload of the best kind.” Kalinsky also ing for. I haven’t seen all the prices everywhere, but a Others saw the concern of a world in economic tur- cited Kors for reworking basics and making them ultra- good designer knows what’s going on in the world and moil permeating the mood. modern, ultraluxe and full of sex appeal; Thakoon for a needs to use creativity to get consumers shopping and “There was not much energy at the fashion shows. chic, sophisticated collection, including gray coats, tux- buyers buying.” I think the designers are a little bit afraid,” observed edo and simple black skirt suits; Alexander “Ultimately…there was great balance between Alla Verber, vice president of Mercury Distribution in Wang’s tailoring, sexy dresses and leggings, and Jason inspired clothes and realistic clothes,” said Nicole Russia. While she did say she loved the collections of Wu’s focused approach, despite all his post-inaugura- Fischelis, vice president and fashion director at Macy’s J.Mendel, Ralph Rucci, Donna Karan and Michael Kors, tion exposure, with “beautiful clothes for women of any Inc. “It’s a lot about fusion — the rough and refined, she felt there could have been more retailers to appre- age who appreciate quality and good taste.” feminine and rock ’n’ roll, layering and unmatching, ciate them. “There were less people. I understand some tailored with feminine, a bohemian attitude, taking people didn’t travel because travel expenses were cut. Sarah Lerfel, buyer for Colette, Paris plaids to a new level, winter floral mixes and lots of Overall, the mood of clothes in New York is not the best. “There’s a very Eighties inspiration, with Marc Jacobs of animal prints.” Everyone talks about disaster. course, and lots of strong shoulders in many collections.” “I arrived expecting a depressing atmosphere [but] “However, I think it makes people feel better know- She also cited futuristic fabrics, at Rodarte and Proenza the shows were very positive and optimistic. Everyone ing that everyone around the world is in this together.” Schouler in particular, and biker jackets highly visible kept the same energy,” said Sarah Lerfel, buyer for Retailers agreed the standout collections of the sea- during the week, like at Alexander Wang. “This is the Colette in Paris. “I keep adding new names. It’s impor- son were Donna Karan, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, and style of jacket that will be strong for this winter. There tant to support creativity. I don’t work with budgets and among the relative newcomers, Jason Wu and Thakoon. are still leather leggings, and Eighties leggings in stretch I’ll continue to work the same way.” Here’s more on how the retailers viewed the col- fabrics. We will carry William Rast. I really liked how they “Challenging times seem to bring out the best in lections. treated the and I liked the shoulders in the col- nsee i h C e g Geor BY HERS T O LL A I; ANNON I GI ANN V O GI BY ER L SCHOU

A Z ROEN no; P i qu A

John BY AM D L AN aran K

Thomas Iannaccone; BY O T HO

Michael Kors Proenza Schouler Marc Jacobs P Thakoon WWD, monday, february 23, 2009 13 WWD.COM Retailers Get Sense of Optimism From Shows

Rodarte

Jason Wu Thakoon

lections. We will also work with Alexander Wang and fabrications. Sherin cited Donna Karan for “won- luxurious clothes; Tuleh’s spirited, luxurious Phillip Lim.” derful” investment pieces for the modern woman; bohemian attitude with print combinations; Kors’ “snappy take” on classic American sportswear ’s masterful architectural, wear- Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store with pops of neon brights; Marc Jacobs’ “good old able clothes; ’s true presentation at Bergdorf Goodman Eighties references”; Derek Lam’s sensual draping sportswear classics and affordable “Our list of loves is fortunately long — Alexander and furs; Rag & Bone’s long, lean silhouettes, vests, luxury; Marc Jacobs’ modernity and Wang, Rodarte, , Marc Jacobs, leggings, tailored jackets and shirtings, and Vera nod to the Eighties and ‘Annie Hall’ Jason Wu, , Calvin Klein, Michael Wang’s pared-down, understated sophistication. spirit at Marc by Marc Jacobs, and Kors, Donna Karan, Thakoon, Rag & Bone and a ’s belle epoque spirit.” special thanks to Phillip Lim for all those rockin’ ro- Barbara Atkin, vice president of fashion direction at mantic items that we want to wear right now.” Canada’s Holt Renfrew Ikram Goldman, owner of Ikram in The designers showed collections “that were bold and Chicago Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director at vibrant with lots of choices that had a strong focus on “I think people are optimis- individual items to be worn creatively with a do-it- tic. They’re careful and re- “We’re absolutely charmed by Jason Wu’s prints and my-way personal . We saw lots of refreshing spectful of what’s going on beautiful details. The polished looks that defined color and novelty treatments such as sequins, embroi- in this country, but they’re Oscar de la Renta and Michael Kors are what women dery and novelty prints. Luxury materials like cash- energized by what’s hap- will be looking for this fall. We loved Diane von mere, leather and fur looked important and worth pening in America and the Furstenberg with all the cozy knits and great items investing in. I also liked the return to the great fall new administration. People layered on top of each other. And certainly Marc classics like tweed and plaid, which were remixed are hopeful. I am definitely Jacobs for all his fall color; Narciso Rodriguez with with more precious fabrics for a fresher look. The ag- more careful” with the open- his razor-sharp jackets; Donna Karan, wow, what gressive shoulder seen on jackets will be the impor- to-buy. “I’m a little more an amazing sexy, sensual collection — the clothes tant feature that changes the way we look at silhou- selective from what I buy women will be superexcited to put into their ward- ettes and just might be the singular most important from every collection, but I .” Key trends cited by Downing were shoulder detail to get customers back into the stores to buy.” haven’t dropped any collec- play, leggings, pencil skirts, narrow pants, dresses, Also on Holt Renfrew’s to-buy list: bright coats; tions and I’m still looking for comfy knits and animal and graphic prints. leather, from jackets to skinny pants and new talent.” Among her favorite col- “And color is certainly important. There was a skirts; knitwear, especially the sweater coat; fur lections: Proenza Schouler and, among little more black and gray than is necessary. We have vests, and short day and cocktail dresses. Atkin said the new talent, she liked Joseph Altuzarra, to remember that customer who is in Los Angeles New York’s standout collections were Marc Jacobs, Fabiola Arias and, for accessories, Fenton. and Miami and all through the south. Color is very Alexander Wang, Michael Kors, Donna Karan, Oscar emotional and can be part of why women buy.…As de la Renta and 3.1 Phillip Lim. Sarah Easley and Beth Buccini, owners of Kirna we go into this uncharted territory, great items are Zabête going to be very important. Designers did a great job Nicole Fischelis, vice president and fashion director at Macy’s They rated the season as “very strong,” cit- working in great items.” “Isaac Mizrahi had the wit we need for the climate we ing Jason Wu, Peter Som, Narciso Rodriguez, are living in and to stimulate customers to buy. The Thakoon, Proenza Schouler and Alexander Colleen Sherin, fashion market director at Saks Fifth Avenue collection was totally innovative, wearable and full Wang as favorites. The shows offered “noth- “The overall mood has really been one of optimism, of must-haves. The great thing to see is how Isaac is ing silly. The shows were edited, on time and joy and hope for the future. This is not the season infusing Liz Claiborne with a new spirit and integ- well-designed,” Easley said. “We are working for somber fashion. The use of color, pops of neon rity of design. He can address the high end and the harder to buy with absolute conviction. We brights and jewel tones really created that optimis- mass customer. I loved Donna Karan for her style and have to unanimously adore every piece we buy. tic feeling. Many of the collections offered polished sensuality, combined tailoring and draping and amaz- For better or for worse, we buy more with our investment dressing where you could see the qual- ing color sensibility. DKNY was at its best with real- heart than with our budget.” ity and the longevity.…There was a feeling of confi- istic, contemporary clothes and terrific new items.” — With contributions from Marc Karimzadeh, dent dressing offering protection, security and reas- Fischelis also cited Kors for a “glamorous masculine- Rosemary Feitelberg, Julee Kaplan and surance,” embodied in black leather, a plethora of feminine approach with true investment clothes; Whitney Beckett, New York; Beth Wilson, leggings, cozy textured knits, cocooning shapes and Ralph Lauren for his aesthetic and fusion idea with Chicago, and Miles Socha, Paris s Donna Karan 14 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2009 collections/fall Justin Timberlake at William Rast NEW ’09 image YORK bank

Diana Ross at Diane von Furstenberg s January Jones at Hervé Léger Mary-Kate Leonardo DiCaprio at Olsen and Vladimir Restoin Roitfeld’s Nicole Richie post-exhibition party at Proenza Schouler

Victoria Beckham at the Armani opening s Leighton Meester at Proenza Schouler

PHOTOS BY: STEVE EICHNER KRISTEN SOMODY WHALEN

Kirsten Dunst Kate Bosworth at at Rodarte Diesel Black Gold

Alicia Keys, Joy Bryant and Rachel Bilson at MaxAzria WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2009 15 WWD.COM

Inara George of The Johnny Members of Guns N’ Roses. Bird and the Bee. Cash PHOTO BY DMI/TIME & LIFE PICTURES/GETTY IMAGES PICTURES/GETTY LIFE & DMI/TIME BY PHOTO

“Out of Time” by (Antonio Azzuolo) “Assoul” by Tinariwen (Duckie Brown) PHOTO BY MICHAEL BUCKNER/GETTY IMAGES BUCKNER/GETTY MICHAEL BY PHOTO PHOTO BY MICHAEL OCHS ARCHIVES/GETTY IMAGES ARCHIVES/GETTY OCHS MICHAEL BY PHOTO “Gallery Piece” by Of (Adam Lippes) “Vessels” by Philip Glass (Patrick Ervell) “Barbie Girl” by Aqua (Mattel Barbie Fashion Show) Designers’ Groove Is in the Heart “Pleasure, Little Treasure” by Depeche Mode, remixed by Sebastian Perrin (Richard Chai Men) DESIGNERS KEPT IT INTERESTING THIS SEASON BY MAKING THEIR RUNWAY MUSIC AS PERSONAL AS THEIR collections. Alexander Wang showed his love of the Eighties, as did other designers, with a soundtrack that included “Roxanne” by The Police mixed with “Mercy” by Duffy (DKNY) “Welcome to the Jungle” by Guns N’ Roses, “Girls” by Beastie Boys and “Thriller” by . Tory Burch “Prologue” composed by Leonard Bernstein from the also went with her favorites this season, personally choosing a mix of Estelle, Mos Def, Black Lips, INXS and The “West Side Story” soundtrack (Calvin Klein Men’s Collection) Rolling Stones. At Erin Fetherston, guests were either soothed or not by the music box mix of classical type pieces ranging from composer Igor Stravinsky’s “Suite No. 2” to Sébastien Tellier’s version of “Clair de Lune.” Diane von “Isis” by Yeah Yeah Yeahs (Jill Stuart) Furstenberg paid homage to her front-row guest Diana Ross by booming the singer’s hit “Upside Down.” And Y-3 kept “Use Somebody” by Kings of Leon (Michael Bastian) it simple by playing a collection of Carole King songs. “Bite This” by Roxanne Shanté (Marc by Marc Jacobs) Most noteworthy were the live performances. Donna Karan had jazz pianist Eric Lewis on a baby grand piano playing “Mr. Brightside” by , “” by , “Knives Out” by and “The Diary “O…Saya” by A.R. Rahman and M.I.A. from the of Jane” by Breaking Benjamin. At Isaac Mizrahi, jazz band The Bad Plus performed original music written for the “” soundtrack (Narciso Rodriguez) show, while Zac Posen had piano virtuosos The 5 Browns perform their classical repertoire. At the other end of the “Clocks” by (Michael Kors) music spectrum, pop rock band Lissy Trullie performed at 3.1 Phillip Lim. At Diesel, Dutch DJ-producer Joost Van Bellen orchestrated a soundtrack of a live four-piece band playing tunes “Radioactivity” by Kraftwerk (1909 Victorinox) like Nirvana’s “” along with background sound bites from movies such as “The Shining” and “Somewhere Over the Rainbow” by Harold Arlen/E.Y. “Casablanca.” Eclecticism aside, there were a few songs heard almost everywhere: “Kids” by MGMT and “Love Harburg covered by Nina Hagen (Malandrino) Letter to Japan” by The Bird and the Bee. — Tara Bonet-Black 16 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2009

For more on the Oscars see WWD.com.

Kate Winslet in Atelier Yves Saint Laurent and Chopard.

Sarah Jessica Parker in Dior and Fred Leighton. American Idols WHEN IT COMES TO OSCAR DRESSING IN A The men certainly had a less energetic take on their recession, actresses seem to divide into two camps: pre-awards routine. Nominee jokingly referred those who dialed it down and those who amped it up. to his Dolce & Gabbana tux as “Uh, Levis,” while nominee At the at the Kodak Theatre Brad Pitt claimed it was all status quo. Sunday night, nominees and Meryl Streep and “Well, getting ready is more like it always is: you put presenters Jessica Biel, Evan Rachel Wood and Tilda Swinton on one and then the other and then you put on your opted for monochromes and subtle jewelry, rendering the pants.…It’s simple,” said the Tom Ford-clad actor. red carpet a procession of cream, nude and black gowns. However, it seems whatever one’s persuasion, the But there was still a reliable contingent ready to bring Oscars have become sartorial-central, arguably inching on the sparkle and color. Marion Cotillard and Sarah Jessica out the evening’s cinematic drama. Parker pulled out corseted, belted Dior Haute Couture “Well, it seems to be more about fashion, doesn’t it?” numbers, while Amy Adams went scarlet, turning to Carolina said Kate Winslet, surrounded by cries of “Who are you Herrera again for her second Oscar-nominated outing. wearing?” (Yves Saint Laurent, for the curious.) “She sent a sketch of this dress and it seemed like a Luckily Penélope Cruz didn’t have to choose: she won on feat to put it together, but this impeccable craftsmanship both the red carpet and the big screen. was the reason I chose it,” said Adams. “I first saw this dress eight years ago but I knew I Freida Pinto in John There was plenty of bling to be had, too: first-time didn’t have anywhere to wear it then so I said to [Lily et Galliano and Martin nominee Taraji P. Henson, in Roberto Cavalli, was unapologetic Cie’s] Rita [Watnick] ‘I’ll be back,’” said the Best Supporting Katz with about glamming it up. “I’ve got designers throwing clothes Actress winner of her vintage Balmain. “And literally, in and and diamonds at me. It’s an incredible ride and I wouldn’t when I came back this year, the dress was still there, so it Jaeger-LeCoultre. tone down a minute of it,” said the actress. was meant to be.” WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2009 17 WWD.COM

Penélope CruzCruz inin Tilda Anne HathawayHathaway Marisa TomeiTomei inin AtelierAtelier VersaceVersace vintage BalmainBalmain Swinton inin ArmaniArmani PrivéPrivé with VanVan CleefCleef && ArpelsArpels jewelry.jewelry. fromfrom LilyLily etet CieCie in Lanvin and vintagevintage and Chopard.Chopard. and Fred Cartier. Leighton. AGE M ITZ/WIREI N Beyoncé inin Jessica BielBiel E GRA House of inin PradaPrada V

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Amy Adams in Brad Pitt in Tom Ford and David Yurman with CRUZ, JOLIE, and Fred Leighton. Angelina Jolie in Elie Saab and Lorraine Schwartz. PARKER, 18 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2009

Demi Moore in Dolce & Gabbana Kate Bosworth Charlize at Hollywood Domino. in . Theron and Josh Brolin oye B yler T others by ll A age; Im trauss/Wire S

Jordan ord by F raves; G y Am erry by B reen; G Opening Credits lobal s G Michelle Monaghan in Versace. Larry Gagosian and Ed Limato cancelled their annual Oscar week parties. Other events were downsized. But compared to the current gloom ages for and doom in New York right now, the run-up to Sunday night’s Academy Im Awards in Los Angeles felt like Shangri-la. etty

G Fashion houses and accessories companies like Rodarte, Jimmy Choo and Oliver Peoples were still throwing lunches and teas. There were benefits at which the main topic of conversation was something other than the economy. And there hearer/ S were people celebrating their work — which is nice, even if their work is entertainment. “I don’t think anyone should ever feel guilty for celebration,” Tracee Ellis Ross said Thursday at an event Essence John Magazine hosted to celebrate Black Women In Hollywood, where Taraji P. Henson and Halle Berry were honored. “In hard times, you take those moments that are joyous and enjoy them.” And why not, the film producer Lynda Obst, said later by phone, “Business at the box office is booming. ossdale by

R There’s no cash to make movies, but the ones that are coming out are overperforming, so that’s the paradox. And our job is to entertain, so the show must go on.” ages;

Im Which it did. Josh Brolin and Diane Lane cohosted a Vanity Fair and Dior event that night for BrandAid. Benefits in Hollywood are great at establishing celebrities as serious people, but this was underwritten etty

G by a fashion house, which saved the nonprofit some money, got the fashion company some publicity and ensured the celebrities came looking their best. Everyone was a winner. An hour later, Sheryl Crow and Gavin Rossdale performed at a benefit for the environmental organization Global Green. A VIP room upstairs was teeming with celebrities like Kate Bosworth, Rosario Dawson and Heather Graham. “New York is harsher than L.A.,” Bosworth said. “In L.A., at least you get to enjoy good . I know that sounds like a platitude, but it’s actually visible on people’s faces.” Certainly, things didn’t feel depressing on Friday afternoon at the lunch Tamara Mellon and Jimmy Choo Jason Merritt/ by orth w threw at the new Cecconi’s in the old Morton’s space. Referring to the party schedule, the socialite Wendy os

B Goldberg said, rather bemusedly, “I think it’s actually busier this year than last.” And in another indication things remain more relaxed in L.A. than the rest of the country, service this week has been as slow as ever. In New York, every waiter in town is worried the customer they don’t help ardella; S

quickly will never come back. In L.A., it’s all good, as they say. One table at the Choo party was just getting its first course when the lunch was over at 2:30. Over at the Polo Lounge, Frank Langella had walked out the onato

D day before when a waiter failed to materialize at his table after more than 15 minutes. At a Montblanc and

by Signature International gala benefiting UNICEF Friday night, guests like Sienna Miller, Reese Witherspoon, Taraji P. Henson yn and didn’t receive their dinner until 10 p.m., three hours after the event began. w Christina Ricci Emily Blunt in Dior at the Christina Ricci in Things ran smoother at a star-studded dinner for hosted by Sandy Gallin at his newly old

G BrandAid gala. Monique Lhuillier. is, w e

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Emily Blunt in Valentino withwith TamaraTamara Roberto Cavalli. Mellon inin .Halston. Moore photo by WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2009 19 WWD.COM

s Jessica Alba in Dior. For more, see WWD.com.

Gavin Rossdale performs with Sheryl Crow. built Bel-Air pad. And here, you would never have known the country is in the worst recession in decades. The house itself is 16,000 square feet, with seven bedrooms, and a swimming pool that measures 150 feet long. The bookshelves, completed almost seconds before the party, required their own decorator. Seen milling about were Mariah Carey, Harvey Weinstein, Rupert and Wendi Murdoch, Donna Karan, and David Geffen. “It was supposed to be, like, 10 people,” said Gallin, “but then I invited 10 people, and they started inviting people and by today, I was receiving phone calls from people asking if they could come.” Oprah Winfrey and Gayle King made the mistake of saving the house tour until after dessert, and discovered at the end of their expedition that all the other guests had left. “Are we the last ones here?” Winfrey asked. Indeed they were. By that point, the party had moved nearby to the Creative Artists Agency agent

Bryan Lourd’s home, where the only press was on the street, and Madonna mingled inside with her s Sienna Miller new friend Jesus Luz, as well as Robert Downey Jr., Tom Cruise, Leonardo DiCaprio and . in vintage Demi Moore is busier Oscar season than she is nearly the entire rest of the year. She came to Ungaro couture. Reese Witherspoon in Dior. Lourd’s with her husband Ashton Kutcher around midnight after putting in an appearance at the Bally-sponsored Hollywood Domino fete benefiting the Art of Elysium at the Andaz Hotel. And Jenny Lewis she’d agreed to host a post-Oscar party with Guy Oseary and Madonna later in the weekend. in Rodarte This is another great thing about all the parties this week: If you don’t have work that’s at a Rodarte nominated (or worth celebrating) the parties serve as a way to get your name back out there tea. and perhaps even generate some cash, if it’s the right sponsor. Welcome to L.A., where all sorts of economic opportunities are still to be found. Saturday afternoon, folks headed to Beverly Hills for Diane von Furstenberg and Barry Diller’s annual outdoor lunch for Graydon Carter. There was Uma Thurman, Diddy and Winfrey and King, too — in matching red dresses, no less. Waiters served grilled cheese sandwiches, the perfect zeitgest party food. And everyone who came from the East Coast talked about how great it was to be out of New York. “I actually feel a little guilty,” said the writer Kurt Andersen, who’s been living here for the past few months. Translation? It’s fantastic. Across town at the Independent Spirit Awards, the big story was Mickey Rourke, who regaled Penélope Cruz, Anne Hathaway, Jessica Alba, Michelle Monaghan and Michelle Williams with an f-bomb laced speech upon taking the trophy for Best Actor in “The Wrestler.” “I just got done talking to the Santa Monica police department,” he said. “They gave me a bed to sleep in 10 years ago. I asked them for two pillows and they said f—k off. But I thank them now.” And how could he not? In other places, people who wind up in Michelle jail often never recover. In Hollywood, it’s the springboard to an award-winning movie. Williams inin But nothing says the show must go on quite like the Diamond Information Center’s annual dinner Chloé atat thethe at the Chateau Marmont. All the gals gussied it up in big frocks, from Sharon Stone in Dior to hostess IndependentIndependent Julianne Moore in Lanvin. Spirit Awards.Awards. One indication things weren’t quite the same as years past? Towards the end of the evening, his excellency Festus G. Mogae, the former president of Botswana, gave an impassioned speech imploring the guests to return to stores. “Think of it as charity to buy diamonds,” he said. “Your support is what keeps our country going.”

Gina Gershon and Tom Ford at the Diamond Information Center dinner.

s Alec Baldwin with Maria Bello Lucy Liu in Lanvin Michelle Williams and Diane Lane, in Chloe. at the Independent Halle Berry both in Dior. Spirit Awards. 20 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2009 WWD.COM Innerwear Report Crafting New Rules of Engagement

Paisley zip- Josie Natori’s front caftan opulent by Oscar animal-print de la Renta and at Carole . Hochman Design Group. ERICKSEN KYLE BY NATORI AND OSCAR HANRO, AQUINO; JOHN

From left: A set from Hanro’s 125th BY anniversary collection; Richard Heeds does a goth Tinkerbell. PHOTO LEEDS

By Karyn Monget strategic thinking between the buyer and seller. With the market. the exception of the current hardships, I think this was “We are quite pleased with market week in the sense This month’s fall market reflected the healthy for all.” that we got to market totally geared and prepared, and angst and uncertainty caused by the battered economy Bob Nolan, president of wholesale and licensing for all of the work we did and the communication with our and overall cutbacks at major retailers such as Macy’s Jockey , said, “I think with this environ- key accounts prior to market resulted in a collection and Wal-Mart. ment, everybody knows we’re in this together, that we that was edited to their key needs,” Natori said. “It was A sign that it was not business as usual was the ab- need each other and we need to come up with strategies all about key items, key price points that we identified sence of a major vendor, NAP Inc., which has sold and that are beneficial for both sides. It’s not a time for frivo- as key strategies to drive the business for fall.” distributed innerwear brands since the early Nineties, lous products. We spent a lot more time explaining to Michael Herman, senior vice president of sales, mer- including sleepwear and robes by Anne Lewin, Derek our employees what our goals are and what the environ- chandising and production at the Natori firm, noted the Rose, Crabtree & Evelyn, loungewear and ment is like. When you get to a point where your employ- caution of retailers. However, he said, “our offer of more Princesse Tam Tam foundations. The sixth-floor show- ees don’t know what management’s goals are, they get focused assortments, key price and value relationship room at the NAP Building at 171 Madison Avenue was uncomfortable and don’t work as well. This approach is for the consumer, along with the distinct Natori aes- closed, and the remaining merchandise on the fifth floor working within the company and with our customers.” thetic, was very well received. It represented a strong was NAP Home Decor, which included items such as Seth Morris, president of the Carole Hochman Design balance of basic and fashion product. [Retailers and pottery. A spokesman said the company was “restructur- Group, said, “The reality of what we are living with and vendors] are in the same challenging economic situa- ing for this market only,” but would not elaborate. will be living through has set in for everyone — both tion and will only be successful navigating through this Innerwear executives generally said they are anxious personally and professionally. I think this helped keep period with strong partnerships. Expectations on both about fall orders that are not expected to be completed everyone grounded and focused on the task at hand, sides need to be realistic.” until March. On a positive note, however, orders for im- mediate merchandise were brisk. Vendors said a glut of in-store inventory and sour sales is being balanced by the desire of stores to bring new The reality of what we are living with and will be living through has product to the selling floor. Market traffic was moderately “ busy despite fewer and smaller buying teams from large set in for everyone — both personally and professionally. ­ stores such as Nordstrom and Neiman Marcus. — Seth Morris, Carole Hochman” Design Group Regarding the turnout of specialty boutiques, a majority of smaller operations are expected to attend this week’s CurveNY trade show and make pit stops at which for us was to collaborate on managing our busi- Greg Holland, executive vice president of sales Madison Avenue showrooms. nesses more efficiently and productively to get through at The Komar Co. and president of Donna Karan “It’s been a strange market,” said Richard Murray, this business tsunami we are currently engaged in.” Sleepwear, said reaction to the newly licensed Ellen president of Wacoal America. “New product by Wacoal Morris added that the main topic of discussion dur- Tracy sleepwear was strong. and b.tempted was reasonably well received, but it’s all ing market was product. “This brand will be picked up by key retailers like being tempered by retail sales as retailers go into mar- “If the product is not good, all the other discussions Nordstrom, Dillard’s, Lord & Taylor and Von Maur,” ket. There seemed to be an interest in new and exciting become a moot point,” he said. “Certainly the key topic Holland said. “The Donna Karan [sleepwear] collection product, but they all appeared to have sales or invento- beyond that is price and ensuring they are not going up was very well received by high-end retailers in the U.S. ry issues and that creates tremendous pressure on sales and that value is visible and compelling on everything as well as abroad. We are looking to expand distribution and business plans.” you do.” through high-end specialty stores in the U.S. and key Despite the negative factors, several vendors said the Carole Hochman, design director and chairman of international markets. We also showed our DKNY line, economic downturn has created a new atmosphere of trust the Hochman firm, also addressed the issue. which is our fastest-growing brand right now, with both and partnerships between retailers and manufacturers. “My Midnight line was well liked because I had lots domestic and international sales beating our initial pro- Richard Leeds, chairman of Richard Leeds of new fabrics, textures and sweater looks,” she said. jections following a capsule collection for holiday.” International, said retailers were “absolutely very cau- “We used a new fabric of polyester and spandex we call Brenda Berger, vice president of sales at Hanky tious, with no obvious rush to fill racks and floor space Midnight Mist, which is light as a feather and gives sup- Panky, said retailers were “cautious but had an open based on past schedules and strategies.” port. Not everyone can wear a cute baby doll. People mind.” “But the economic debacle seems to have had a very are looking for lasting power in products. People are “This is the first time we are giving our customers sobering impact on our retail customers,” Leeds said. “It home watching TV, they’re not going out to restaurants a strong panty program in cotton and Lycra, something opened avenues of dialogue where buyers and manage- anymore. We are offering them a little luxury without the consumer has been asking for many years,” Berger ment were reaching out for open critiques of their prod- making them feel guilty.” said. “Our color palette highlights were raspberry with uct assortments. Unfortunately, it had to take a crisis in Despite the challenges, Josie Natori, chief executive granite and our new stretch tulle in basics, rasp- consumer confidence to prompt this open exchange of officer of the Natori Co., said she felt “positive” about berry and fashion prints.” 3x7 (right)

WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2009 21 WWD.COM Accessories Report David Yurman’s Moment in Time By Sophia Chabbott “With this watch, it could really go more toward men who don’t David and wear jewelry,” Evan said. AFTER NINE YEARS IN THE WATCH BUSINESS, DAVID Evan The timepieces are made in La Chaux-de-Fonds, in Yurman feels it’s time to enter a new era. Yurman Neuchâtel, Switzerland, the center of haute horology for hun- The 29-year-old fine jewelry and watch firm today will dreds of years. Known to offer the cold shoulder to newcomers introduce its newest men’s watch, dubbed the Classic. The in the market, the Yurmans found it challenging to break in with Classic is the brand’s first round case, a feat it has been the locals. But now, after countless trips and arduous research, working to accomplish for several years. ANTONOV PASHA BY PHOTO they feel settled in. “I stayed away from round [before],” said David “One advantage we have is having a fresh look on the time- Yurman, chief designer and chairman, explaining the piece industry,” said Evan. “The majority of these watch busi- round shape is the most complex watch silhouette, even nesses are based in Switzerland, and they are consumed with it though it has been done for more than two centuries. “I and rightfully so. We are coming at it from a different approach.” felt it had to be authentic.” Yurman chief executive officer Paul Blum said while the jew- To help facilitate the process, designer Yurman tapped elry sector comprises the bulk of company sales, watches are a his son, Evan, who is the firm’s design director of timepiec- burgeoning category. All of the limited edition watches launched es, to collaborate on the watch design. Evan’s mother, Sybil, at Baselworld, the Swiss watch and jewelry show, in 2008 have is the company’s president and chief marketing officer. The been sold. The brand’s women’s watches hearken back to the younger Yurman, 27, has been spearheading the brand’s jewelry, such as with the Thoroughbred watch that has a cush- men’s jewelry line. His precious gold dog tags coated in ion-shaped case echoing the stone cut and the Waverly watch, black diamonds and modernized signet rings have been pop- which is an exaggerated double-helix cuff, the firm’s most ular at retail. Evan has worked on watch designs in the past, identifiable piece. but this was his first time starting from the ground up. The The firm will unveil the Classic to a select group this af- The father-son duo looked within the company’s DNA for Classic ternoon and fete it with a party in the New York Public inspiration for the Classic. watch. Library’s rotunda. As for advertising, a trademark for “I wanted to make this as authentic as possible,” said Yurman — Peter Lindbergh’s photographs of Kate Moss Evan of the watch. “It’s about heritage and classic American and Daria Werbowy wearing the jewelry and women’s design…America is the world’s largest timepiece market, and we think it’s watches punctuate billboards and magazines across the important to continue the beauty and simplicity of American design.” globe — it’s in the works. But don’t expect a celebrity To start, there are three styles in the collection: three-handed, moon spokesmodel or sponsorship of a regatta in the vein of phase and chronograph. Ranging in size from 43.5 to 46 millimeters, the other watch brands. stainless steel watchcases each feature the brand’s signature cable em- “We need to honor the design,” said David. “There are no blem. The dials are inspired by American automobiles from the Fifties bells and whistles. It’s about the timepiece. It’s time that we and the guilloche work and subdials within take cues from a car’s odom- center on the product and give credence to the public, because eter. The watches have a nostalgic air, with a modern bent. The movements they aren’t dumb. They see and understand the product.” range from a Swiss automatic ETA 2892-2 with a 42-hour power reserve to Despite the rocky retail road, the Yurmans believe that there are a Dubois-Depraz 9000 movement. Women’s styles are in the works, as are consumers out there looking for well-made, detail-oriented and lux- limited editions. ury products. The Classic retails from $3,200 to $18,000 and will hit David Yurman’s “There’s a feeling in fashion now of ‘Can I own this, how long can I own 15 boutiques in the U.S. and three in Asia in May, and roll out to specialty this, can I pass this down to my children and grandchildren?’ ” said David. retailers in the fall. FINDINGS BIGGER AND BETTER: Accessories still bring in the customers, as evidenced by the event at Bloomingdale’s on Thursday night. The party to celebrate the newly opened Vuitton shop within Bloomingdale’s drew scores of Vuitton clients. The in-store boutique, which opened in 1995, has tripled to almost 3,900 square feet and now has Louis Vuitton boutique at Bloomingdale’s. three levels. Additional product categories such as men’s and footwear were added to the mix of handbags, eyewear and shoes. There is also a permanent two-story Louis Vuitton monogram pattern with a changing LED light display that covers the store’s corner at 59th Street and Lexington Avenue. “We have a very long-term view of our business,” said Daniel Lalonde, president and chief executive officer of Louis Vuitton North America. “We have been looking forward to growing our footprint at the New York flagship for several years.” Michael Gould, Bloomingdale’s chairman and chief executive officer, said of the space, “It’s a great growth opportunity for us.” There are talks to expand Louis Vuitton into other Bloomingdale’s locations.

LOUBOUTIN GOES LATIN: Christian Louboutin is opening his first South American boutique at Iguatemi São Paulo, one of Brazil’s top fashion centers that also houses the likes of , Chanel and Louis Vuitton. Like all Louboutin stores worldwide, the São Paulo boutique will house the brand’s red-soled stilettos, espadrilles, flats and growing handbag collection in a stylish setting. Designed in partnership with New York-based architect Eric Clough of 212box, the store will also be the only Christian Louboutin boutique to feature a facade of imbuia wood — grown exclusively in Southern Brazil — carved with thousands of intricate drawings. “In such a pretty mall, I want to have my prettiest shoes,” said Louboutin. “Iguatemi São Paulo is the essence of Brazil — a mix of style and culture, supported by a splendid administration.” The 865-square-foot store space is the designer’s 17th store worldwide and will open in March.

AWARDS SEASON: When the third annual Independent Handbag Designer Awards is presented in June, there will be more than just handbags. The contest has added a category, as well. Applications are now open for categories such as best student-made bag, greenest bag and best shoe. Sponsors include Crystallized Swarovski Elements, Singer Sewing Co., Parsons for Design, Pantone, Foot Petals, Devi Kroell and M&J Trimming. Prizes include a free booth at WWDMAGIC, a “designer feature” on Singer Sewing’s Web site and an apprenticeship with Devi Kroell. Lulu Guinness will also be honored as this year’s Iconoclast recipient for her 20 years of achievement in handbag design. 22 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2009 WWD.COM Posnick Offers Color Essentials FASHION SCOOPS Makeup artist Susan Posnick has designed a CROSS STITCH: The Dow Jones Industrial Average slid to its Council. London Fashion Week’s move to Somerset House will line of lipsticks called Color Essential with the inten- lowest level in six years Friday morning, but Thursday night also coincide with an exhibition staged by photographer Nick tion of making it easy for any woman to pucker up in the fashion flock toasted the opening of the optimistically Knight’s multimedia Web site SHOWstudio, which will be held the season’s hottest shade — no matter how concerned monikered The Smile, a boutique and cafe on Bond Street. there from Sept. 18 through Dec. 20. she might be about wearing Also being feted was Wool & the Gang, a knitting collective bold colors. and clothing line founded by Lisa Sabrier, Carolyn Main and VENETIAN KINDS: Get ready for gondola chic. is “Red is so hot on lips this Nadège Winter. Guests including Mary-Kate Olsen, Michael Stipe, already thinking about his cruise collection for Chanel, and spring, but most women won’t Chiara Clemente, Waris Ahluwalia and Eleanor Ylvisaker perused plans to show it May 14 in Venice, on the famous Lido Beach. wear it,” said Posnick. “This the knitting kits and were given wool and roses. “I lets women wear red but it’s actually don’t know how to knit,” said Erin Wasson, who will FANTASY ISLAND: Tapping into a growing mood for escapism, new a soft red — the perfect red soon be headed to reprise her RVCA presentation in London. offerings from Dior’s “Coffret de Victoire,” featuring one-of-a-kind that any woman can wear.” “I prefer cross-stitching — you can do so pieces designed by Victoire de Castellane, include six oversize Posnick will begin shipping much more. My mom taught me how to do it.” bracelets inspired by the idea of a lovesick traveler collecting that red in late March along Meanwhile, designers Maria Cornejo, Thakoon souvenirs for his sweetheart on a trip around the world. with one coral, one pink, one Panichgul, John Whitledge, Jeff Halmos and Sam The treasures will be presented in a giant Dior-gray nude and one berry lip color. Shipley checked out The Smile’s two-level brick- jewelry box at the house’s Paris headquarters Each of the five opaque walled space. The concept store was founded by March 9, a spokeswoman confirmed. Color Essential lip hues was Carlos Quirarte and Matt Kliegman and features formulated with a neutral a cafe and bar run by Melia Marden (daughter HYERES TODAY: Belgian Kris Van Assche will preside base to flatter most skin tones. of Brice). According to Quirarte, the store will over the jury at the 24th International Fashion and “We tested them on hundreds feature exclusive and limited edition items from Photography Festival in Hyères, in late April. of women,” said Posnick. “It the likes of Adam Kimmel and Earnest Sewn. The designer, who is also Dior Homme’s artistic goes with our whole philoso- “It’s all just friends,” explained Quirarte, who director, will be joined on the jury by actress and Posnick’s new lipsticks. phy of keeping it simple.” happened upon the landmarked 1830s location filmmaker Zoe Cassavetes, photographer Nan Goldin The lip colors extend after the restaurant Double Crown opted not to use and Dazed & Confused’s editor in chief Jefferson Hack. Posnick’s namesake line of foundation, concealer, eye it. After cocktails, partygoers like Vladimir Roitfeld, Dior jewelry’s Idylle aux Their task will be to select a winner from among 10 color and lip stains sold in such specialty retailers as and and Lily Cyclades bracelet. budding designers. Talents discovered at the festival in Fred Segal and Forty Five Ten. Donaldson thronged the second floor of the Bowery the past include Viktor & Rolf and Gaspard Yurkievich. Containing an array of moisturizers and vitamins, Hotel, where Matt Creed DJ’d and the band Chief performed. the lipsticks retail for $17 each and are packaged in a EYE ON THE PRIZE: Red carpet, or runway? Alas, Nicole Farhi had to metallic aubergine tube with a magnetic closure. LONDON SHOWS’ NEW HOME: London Fashion Week is heading opt for the latter this past weekend. The designer, who is married “We expect the lipsticks to do over $1 million because to the bright lights of central London. After being held at the to the Oscar-nominated playwright Sir David Hare, showed her they are getting such a great response and are unique in British Fashion Council’s tents at the Natural History Museum fall-winter collection Sunday morning in London. That left her their category,” Posnick said. “Our feeling is that women in South Kensington for four years, the London shows will move little time to hop a plane to Los Angeles and watch her husband might pick up more than one if we price it reasonably.” to Somerset House, an 18th-century neoclassical museum quite possibly pick up the best adapted screenplay Oscar for — Holly Haber and cultural space near Covent Garden, in September. “We “The Reader.” “We tried to change the slot so I could run from are pleased to be working in partnership with Somerset House backstage with my suitcase!” said Farhi. But the flight times to develop London Fashion Week’s profile and…utilize the meant she would not have arrived in time for the Oscars. “In the SkinCeuticals Sales Hit $3.1 Million in Italy architecturally interesting spaces to make the venue our new end, I decided to stay,” she said. “I am very sad. David told me MILAN — Less than two years after launching in Italy, home,” said Harold Tillman, chairman of the British Fashion not to stay up, but to sleep — and he will call if he wins.” SkinCeuticals’ business here has blossomed. The L’Oréal-owned skin care brand reached Italian counters in mid-2007, saw its 2008 sales triple to more than 2.4 million euros — or about $3.1 million at cur- rent exchange, according to industry sources — and is Crowds Flock to YSL Art Exhibit on pace to double that figure this year. PARIS — Thousands of people visited the Grand Palais said he plans to bid on some of the chairs. “This is a Massimo Cravedi, general manager of SkinCeuticals here Sunday morning to view up close a collection of 700 great thing for the art world, but this time I’m after Italy, said that after the U.S., Italy ranks as the brand’s pieces of art that once filled the apartments of the late de- some pieces of furniture for my home,” he said. second-biggest market. signer Yves Saint Laurent and his partner, Pierre Bergé. “It’s a beautiful homage but it’s very sad, I saw these “It’s really been well received,” said Cravedi. “I A line had formed by 7.30 a.m. and ultimately snaked pieces several times in Yves Saint Laurent’s homes,” think the current crisis is helping us, as these are prod- around the building for the free exhibition. Auction mused Hubert de , leaning on his cane in a queue ucts that guarantee results and are backed by derma- house Christie’s estimates 30,000 visitors this past week- for the first salons. The retired designer said he once end ahead of the auction, which begins today. owned some of the Limoges enamel pieces on display. There were also queues Friday night as more than As well as works by Picasso, Matisse, Mondrian and 2,000 friends, former couture staff and prospective Degas, the show includes pieces that won’t go under BEAUTY BEAT buyers thronged a VIP preview. “It’s only now I realize the hammer this week, namely Goya’s “Potrait de Don tologists. If consumers spend money on skin care, they how lucky I was to live among such beauty,” said Betty Luis Maria de Cistué,” which Bergé has donated to the want to know what they are buying will work.” Catroux, adding she’ll accompany Bergé through “every Louvre, and Andy Warhol’s portraits of Saint Laurent, SkinCeuticals is distributed in 220 pharmacies in minute” of the three-day sale. “We are a close family, among the few pieces Bergé is holding on to. Italy, some of which are equipped with cabins. The you know. We never leave each other’s side.” Meanwhile, in China’s ongoing battle to prevent the brand has also established three spa collaborations The exhibit, where different works and eras are mixed sale of two bronze animal fountainheads, taken from with luxury hotels, including the prestigious Hotel de in replica rooms of Saint Laurent’s Rue de Babylone the Emperor Qianlong’s summer palace in Beijing dur- Russie in Rome, and it is found in five medical spas. In apartment, allowed visitors within arm’s reach of the ing the Opium Wars, the Association for the Protection addition to carrying the brand, the hotel and medical objects. “That’s because they’re still part of life, they’re of the Arts of China in Europe has reportedly filed spas have developed a series of SkinCeuticals antiag- not in a museum yet,” explained scenographer Nathalie an injunction request to Paris’ Tribunal de Grande ing facial treatments for clients. Crinière, who directed a team of 250 people who worked Instance, to be heard in court today. Bergé told WWD SkinCeuticals plans to add up to 20 medical and on the installation around the clock for a week. earlier this week the Chinese would be better to look hotel spas this year, as well as another 80 pharmacies. “It’s on the scale he deserves: He would have been after human rights than trying to recover the rat and Spearheading SkinCeuticals’ strategy in 2009 is the happy to see it this way,” said the Baroness Hélène de the rabbit, which go under the hammer Wednesday. launch of an antioxidant serum called Phloretin CF, Ludinghausen, Saint Laurent’s former couture direc- Christie’s maintains the sale is legal. due at the end of March. tor, who will attend Monday’s sale of Impressionist and Bergé, meanwhile, confirmed that another sale, that Priced at 155 euros, or $195.63, Cravedi said the ex- Modern Art as a spectator only. “My heart is set on ev- of the couple’s Château Gabriel in Deauville, has been pectations for the product are that “it becomes a new erything, but my pocket isn’t. My wallet’s saying, ‘No, completed. The buyer is said to be a Russian business- standard in antioxidant treatments, and it will become no, no.’ I’ll be afraid to scratch my nose,” she joked. man. Furniture and works of art from the château, the most important product in our catalogue, alongside As designer Agnès Troublé studied the Roman mi- where each room was named after a Proustian charac- [an item called] C E Ferulic.” notaur sculpture at the entrance, Bianca Jagger swept ter, will be auctioned by Christie’s and Pierre Bergé & — Stephanie Epiro by on the arm of gallery owner Thaddaeus Ropac, who Associés from Nov. 17 to 19.

more trade shows and showrooms. “We cannot rest on our laurels and expect that we will always remain on top with- NYC Plan to Aid Industry, Buyers out continuous improvement,” said Pinsky. “Recognizing this, we are pleased to in- troduce our suite of initiatives designed to make the city more accessible for buyers, By Ross Tucker increase the number of showroom and trade show visits they can make per trip and provide an overall boost to local businesses.” NEW YORK — The Economic Development Corp. is expected to unveil The initiatives stem from the findings of a study the NYCEDC carried out to iden- several initiatives today designed to bolster the city’s fashion industry and improve tify growth opportunities for the city. According to the study, the wholesale fashion buyers’ experiences when in town for trade shows. business generates more than $18 billion in direct spending with city businesses and Buyers can now turn to a Web site, NYCFashionInfo.com, to find trade show sched- pulls in more than 560,000 out-of-town visitors a year. ules and contact information for more than 5,000 showrooms here. The free site will A survey of buyers found that nearly 90 percent felt there was no convenient re- also have a print component called the NYC Fashion Wholesale Guide, which will be source providing the names, locations and contact information for city showrooms. available at trade show venues such as Piers 92 and 94, the Jacob K. Javits Convention Providing better transportation was listed as buyers’ top request. The city is also Center and the Starrett-Lehigh Building. working with trade shows to establish show dates earlier and to better coordinate A new express shuttle service will also be tested during women’s fashion market the shows. week, which began Saturday. The shuttle will operate between 11 a.m. and 7 p.m. “Given the current economic conditions here in the U.S., it is crucial that the city’s and make stops at West 39th Street and Seventh Avenue, trade show venues like the fashion industry has every extra edge it needs to remain the leader in the global Piers and Javits and a stop in Midtown at West 53rd Street between Sixth Avenue and marketplace,” said Barbara Randall, president of the Fashion Center Business Seventh Avenue, where many hotels are located. Improvement District. “This program is an important step, and we look forward to Seth Pinsky, president of the NYCEDC, said the goal is to allow buyers to visit helping it succeed and grow.” section ii

drive traffic to your booth in wwd’s basel preview WWDBasel Preview

Hottest Trends Retail Strategies The New Luxe

section ii issue date: March 26 close: March 10 photo by GeorGe Chinsee For more information on advertising, contact Christine Guilfoyle, publisher, at 212-630-4737, or your WWD sales representative. advertisement advertisement

perfectly

Fashionable, Fun and Affordable, Legwear Stays Strong

United Legwear

nce upon a time, legwear meant – which indulging in? According to the NPD Group, total dollar For her part, Reese believes that color will be a key to were for weekends or sports – and sheer volume for women’s legwear for the 12 months ending success. “Color is everywhere these days. It’s a good Ofor work, parties and church. In short, legwear November 2008 was more than $3.3 billion. And not thing, too, because color can make people happy and was about function, not fashion. only did sales exceed the same period in ‘07, but the we can use all the help we can get in this regard.” Things began to change in the mid-1980s. For leg- rate of year-to-year growth nearly doubled — from 2.1 For Fall, Soxland is offering shades of blue and green wear manufacturers, the first change was good, as the percent to 4 percent. Best of all, total sales for tights as well as plum, red and purple in addition to the core category expanded to include tights and footless tights increased a whopping 32 percent. neutrals black, brown, natural, navy and gray. Very — also known as leggings — which were made popular bright colors that “border on neon,” are also in the mix by films like “Flashdance.” for Spring, said Reese. In the late Eighties, however, skirts and dresses Growth Opportunity “Bright colors make people smile and, in legwear, also gave way to pants, which meant women needed less Not surprisingly, legwear manufacturers intend to give women a way to test color in an inexpensive way. If hosiery. Then, in the Nineties, skirts came back, but build on this momentum — especially in the tights cat- a woman wants to know how she feels about wearing were in. That was a challenging time for egory. “We had an extensive tights offering last Fall that bright pink she can find out with a pair of tights.” manufacturers. was very successful,” said Robert Sussman, Chinese The good news is that the 21st century has been kind ’s president, “and we plan to continue that.” to legwear makers. “For some time, fashion trends have Sussman is particularly bullish about sweater Designing Woman incorporated legwear as part of the total look and, of tights, with plans to add 10 to 15 designs including United Legwear is also committed to expanding their course, that’s been great for the category,” said Isaac different textures, patterns and prints. Chinese tights offering, but they’re going about it in a new way Ash, president and CEO of United Legwear, “but the Laundry’s designer, Susan Thorp provided details: for them. For the first time, they’ll be working directly current economic situation has only deepened women’s “besides the basic core colors of gray, black and with a major designer: Cynthia Rowley. “In the past, understanding that an outfit can be updated and made brown, we’ll be offering quite a few different plaids we’ve worked primarily on the branded side of the busi- to look different just by putting on a new pair of tights and argyle patterns in bright jewel tones and tradi- ness with athletic wear companies like Puma or mass with texture or color. This is an affordable alternative to tional colors.” Fabrications include microfiber and brands like Skechers,” said Isaac Ash. “Working with buying a new ready-to-wear piece.” cashmere. “Everything is very tactile; we really work Cynthia Rowley, it’s all about design.” Susan Reese, vp sales and merchandising at Soxland, to get everything to be very soft.” Ash sees Rowley as “a perfect example of a designer sees another angle: “Buying trendy tights or fun socks Like the category as a whole, Soxland’s tights busi- who uses legwear to complete her fashion story. Her is great retail therapy and doesn’t break the bank. It’s ness was “way up last year,” said Reese. That led the look is not just about the dress. She really translates the nice to have a shopping bag with goodies in it and even company to shift the product mix for Fall ’09 to include look all the way down the body.” nicer when they only cost $20.” even more tights in different weights and fabrications, Debuting in Fall ’09 and shipping in late June, the Just how much retail therapy have women been including cotton, bamboo, acrylic and microfiber. three-tiered Cynthia Rowley legwear collection will

Chinese Chinese Laundry’s Robert Laundry Sussman is cautiously optimistic about the future. Like his competitors, he knows that a penny-pinching consumer can be good news for legwear, but his optimism goes beyond that. “I see this as an opportunity for people like us — people who don’t do things in the same-old, same-old way.”

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thin-ribbed tight that gives a luminescent look and will fact, we’re premiering Fall six weeks early because of be available in black, silver and soft gold; the Baroque the high interest.” Texture Tight, an opaque tight with an all-over floral Sussman credits Chinese Laundry’s success to the type pattern; and the True Crochet Tight, which fea- quality and variety of the company’s products, but also tures an open crochet pattern. to the fact that “we do what we say we’ll do.” Patterned tights include the Split Chevron, a two-tone black/gray tight with a chevron pattern running down the leg; a classic Pinstripe Tight; and the Tonal Dia- Topical Socks monds Tight in a black/gray or chocolate combo. Success at Soxland comes in large part from their “Cynthia chose United Legwear for our demon- reputation as a private label resource; they make socks strated ability to translate her collections DNA into for such retailers as Macy’s, Dress Barn, Bon Ton, Kohl’s our legwear,” said Ash. “This is no small task but we and The Avenue to name just a few. But adding to that have focused on key elements that will translate to the success — “the icing on the cake,” as Susan Reese refers leg and the fabrication/technology we can employ with to it — is the hit they’ve scored with their Greenology line legwear. We have the global license for Cynthia Rowley which shipped in November. legwear so it’s very important that we create the right “I think we’ve had really good timing with Greenol- product for the category that transcends the brand ele- ogy,” said Reese, which uses socks as a platform to ments and makes a global statement for her partners teach people how they can help make a greener environ- Soxland around the world.” ment. “We highlighted four subjects: global warming, recycling, endangered species and ‘go organic’ with the socks’ design motif relating to the subject.” For example, include tights, footless tights, trouser socks and over- Cautious Optimism organic vegetables are knit into the “go organic” socks the-knee socks. Tights are definitely the most dynamic segment of and pandas adorn the endangered species socks. The premium tier is a 98-percent polymede, 2-per- the legwear category, but they’re far from the whole “Peace signs and the other icons in the Greenology cent elastane blend with a velvet hand and a slight story. In addition to the company’s success with tights, line really speak to people about something positive. sheen. Colors will include jewel tones, plum, royal blue, Chinese Laundry also makes knee-highs and trouser They make people feel good. So does the bamboo yarn.” teal, burgundy and ivory as well as black, chocolate and socks and launched a line of foot covers for Spring ’09 Response to the line has been “very strong, with excel- charcoal gray — all of which “work back to Rowley’s that “were booked very heavily,” said Robert Sussman. lent sell-through.” seasonal collection,” said Ash. “We’re planning on updating them into a fall version.” Reese believes that Soxland’s clients like working The mid-tier includes an ultra-suede footless tight Sussman is cautiously optimistic about the future. with the company because “they know we try our best that Ash describes as a great way to add a color story Like his competitors, he knows that a penny-pinching to give them direction in fashion and that we bring new to a black tunic while simultaneously keeping legs warm consumer can be good news for legwear, but his opti- ideas, fresh ideas every season.” and dressing up an outfit. Rounding out the collection mism goes beyond that. “Everybody is looking at what’s Once upon a time, legwear was white socks and will be microfiber tights priced to encourage the con- working and what’s not working and they’re going to look sheer hose. Today, it’s more products, more colors, sumer to buy multiple pairs. for new solutions. I see this as an opportunity for people more patterns, more textures, more fun and more Textures and patterns add interest and, in many like us — people who don’t do things in the same-old, fashionable. Of course that’s no guarantee that the cases, “make really strong statements,” said Ash. same-old way. We just had our biggest market week category will live happily ever after, but it’s still a great These include the Metallic Rib Tight — a shimmery, in five years; new accounts were coming to see us. In place to be right now.

Soxland

Success at Soxland comes in large part from their reputation as a private label resource. But adding to that success — “the icing on the cake,” as Susan Reese refers to it — is the hit they’ve scored with their Greenology line which shipped in November. advertisement

For the first time, United Legwear United will work directly Legwear with a major designer: Cynthia Rowley. Rowley “uses legwear to complete her fashion story,” said Isaac Ash. “Her look is not just about the dress – she translates it all the way down the body.”

Chinese Laundry Soxland United Legwear 350 Fifth Avenue 7 West 36th Street 48 West 38th Street FOR Suite 6708 New York, NY 10018 3rd Floor New York, NY 10118 212-679-4588 New York, NY 10018 MORE 212-947-5151 www.soxland.com 212-391-4143 www.chineselaundrysocks.com Susan Reese, sales & www.unitedlegwear.com INFORMATION Robert Sussman, president merchandising Isaac Ash, president 28 WWD, monday, february 23, 2009

Financial For full daily stock changes, see WWD.com. Apparel Prices Inch Up 0.3% Weekly Stocks 52-Week Volume Amt 52-Week Volume Amt By Liza Casabona High Low Companies p/E Last Change High Low Companies p/E Last Change WASHINGTON — Rebounding from steep discounts at 82.06 13.66 Abercrombie & Fitch (ANF) 7.4 19812070 22.62 -0.16 50.35 8.02 J. Crew (JCG) 7.2 4073715 10.09 -1.58 the end of last year, retail prices for apparel rose a 26.78 8.99 Acadia (AKR) 14.9 1289796 9.26 -1.24 51.42 13.95 J.C. Penney (JCP) 4.2 30620786 15.10 -0.67 seasonally adjusted 0.3 percent in January, the Labor 3.78 0.47 Aeffe * (AEF:MI) - 445742 0.55 -0.02 7.70 2.00 Jaclyn (JCLY) - 3200 3.25 0.25 Department said Friday in its Consumer Price Index. 37.40 12.52 Aéropostale (ARO) 10.2 10485998 22.10 -0.19 1.67 0.24 Joe’s (JOEZ) 3.0 587414 0.25 -0.05 But deflation risks remain and retail apparel prices 29.40 19.32 Alberto Culver (ACV) 9.7 4365848 22.67 -0.88 22.12 2.34 Jones Apparel (JNY) - 7006380 2.87 -0.57 last month fell 0.9 percent compared with a year earlier. 12.50 1.45 (APP) 5.5 686445 1.88 -0.42 50.58 15.38 Jos. A. Bank (JOSB) 8.2 1336484 23.85 -2.59 Women’s apparel prices rose 0.5 percent in January 23.73 6.98 American Eagle (AEO) 7.1 27604756 9.58 0.52 19.74 5.52 Kenneth Cole (KCP) - 309588 7.14 0.04 and dropped 3.6 percent year-to-year. Men’s apparel prices increased 1.9 percent for the month and 0.4 29.23 3.74 Ann Taylor (ANN) 9.9 5966568 6.04 -0.46 47.80 9.06 Kimco Realty (KIM) 7.2 40412005 10.01 -0.39 percent for the year. 420.00 112.50 Asos * (ASC:L) 38.8 1912211 333.25 15.75 56.00 24.28 Kohl’s (KSS) 11.3 30290814 34.84 -1.29 Prices for all goods and services advanced 0.3 per- 45.34 17.45 Avon (AVP) 9.5 22513100 18.71 -2.66 20.76 9.55 K-Swiss (KSWS) 10.3 628951 10.00 -0.52 cent in January, following three months of steeply fall- 13.83 4.57 Bebe (BEBE) 11.4 2000956 5.68 0.11 18.28 8.28 LaCrosse Footwear () 8.3 27771 8.70 -2.28 ing prices. It is the first increase since July and was 56.72 32.32 Beiersdorf * (BEI:HM) 13.9 2347283 34.07 -1.22 22.16 6.90 Limited Brands (LTD) 4.7 19858561 7.84 -0.30 mostly driven by higher gas prices, economists said. 13.30 4.80 Benetton Group * (BEN:MI) 6.4 781656 5.30 -0.52 20.33 1.46 Liz Claiborne (LIZ) - 6899043 2.33 -0.19 Compared with last year, overall prices were flat. Core 5.10 0.24 Birks & Mayors (BMJ) 0.3 148695 0.44 0.16 3.99 0.35 LJ Intl. (JADE) 6.6 121861 0.53 -0.05 inflation, which excludes the volatile energy and food 44.29 27.69 BJs (BJ) 13.1 5402337 28.24 -0.50 99.97 50.00 L’Oréal * (OR:PA) 14.6 6901731 51.09 -2.36 sectors, rose 0.2 percent in January and advanced 1.7 0.29 0.07 Blue (BLHI) - 23775 0.07 0.00 37.33 5.91 Lululemon (LULU) 9.5 2257612 5.46 -1.00 percent year-over-year. 5.50 0.55 Bluefly (BFLY) - 8661 0.67 -0.13 26.66 10.62 Luxottica * (LUX:MI) 11.2 3781782 10.88 -0.68 “The price rises may allay deflation fears tempo- rarily, but they probably reflect a temporary bounce 10.50 0.76 Bon-Ton (BONT) - 323391 1.39 -0.10 89.36 38.10 LVMH * (MC:PA) 10.7 6056377 45.76 -2.83 at the start of the year after severe discounting during 18.44 3.51 Brown Shoe (BWS) 4.6 1375020 3.64 -0.17 76.50 8.31 Macerich (MAC) 4.4 14629850 11.20 -2.34 the holiday season,” said Nigel Gault, chief U.S. econ- 44.57 13.57 Buckle (BKE) 10.8 2137787 23.79 -0.15 27.08 5.07 Macy’s Inc. (M) 4.8 54144220 7.86 -0.77 omist at IHS Global Insight. “Deflation risks remain.” 11.48 2.97 * (BUL:MI) 7.3 5428520 3.13 -0.26 17.59 6.25 Maidenform (MFB) 6.8 289612 8.19 -0.12 Charles McMillion, president and chief economist at 686.50 154.75 Burberry * (BRBY:L) 7.5 10683707 250.00 -22.25 669.00 191.90 Marks & * (MKS:L) 6.3 60575914 251.75 -14.50 MBG Information Services, said, “The key concern now 16.29 4.18 Cabela’s (CAB) 4.8 4037473 8.06 1.75 27.64 8.33 Men’s Wearhouse (MW) 7.5 2117686 10.31 -0.68 is for deflation, as vast overcapacity in virtually every 14.86 1.41 Caché (CACH) 10.0 185388 1.88 -0.17 26.17 5.94 Movado (MOV) 3.8 508619 6.37 -0.92 industry worldwide leads to…loss-making price cuts.” 54.20 24.16 Carrefour * (CA:PA) 10.0 14668617 26.79 -0.97 25.00 10.03 National Retail Prop. (NNN) 10.7 8352817 15.11 0.40 Prices in women’s apparel categories fluctuated. 22.39 11.94 Carter (CRI) 11.4 5820771 14.19 -1.51 12.12 0.82 New York & Co. (NWY) 9.3 1589570 2.32 -0.07 Price levels for women’s outerwear slid 2.8 percent 4.95 0.31 Casual Male (CMRG) - 837264 0.38 -0.02 0.10 0.05 NexCen (NEXC) - 504525 0.06 -0.01 in January and 5.9 percent year-to-year. Dresses in- 19.38 11.30 Cato (CTR) 14.6 659933 14.41 -0.35 70.60 41.37 Nike (NKE) 11.5 17634348 42.93 -0.50 creased 3.5 percent for the month, but fell 1.2 percent in 12-month comparisons. Suits and separates advanced 27.55 2.53 CBL (CBL) 6.4 9253074 3.65 -0.32 0.75 0.02 Nitches (NICH) - 322265 0.05 -0.01 0.9 percent in January, but declined 5.2 percent from the 9.70 2.75 CCA (CAW) 5.3 19551 2.90 -0.15 39.52 6.61 Nordstrom (JWN) 4.9 26928032 11.89 -1.29 same period a year earlier. Prices in the broad women’s 1.50 0.18 Charles & Colvard (CTHR) - 150801 0.43 -0.04 11.50 5.95 Orchids Paper (TIS) 19.1 53722 10.92 -0.07 underwear, , sportswear and accessories cat- 20.61 3.98 Charlotte Russe (CHIC) 53.9 537991 4.95 -0.31 29.88 4.48 Oxford (OXM) 5.8 357237 5.46 -0.68 egory slipped 0.9 percent for the month and 0.2 percent 6.42 0.57 Charming Shoppes (CHRS) - 1473077 0.76 -0.29 14.04 0.72 Pacific Sunwear (PSUN) - 4776752 1.46 -0.07 for the year. Girls’ apparel prices dropped 0.9 percent 82.00 57.10 Chattem (CHTT) 18.5 731372 63.02 -2.45 7.15 1.16 Parlux Fragrances (PARL) - 493449 1.23 -0.17 in January and 3.3 percent from a year earlier. 36.97 11.55 Cherokee (CHKE) 10.2 214803 16.50 -1.87 27.88 2.21 Penn Real Estate (PEI) - 4733552 4.14 -0.54 Men’s apparel prices were mostly up in monthly 10.72 1.72 Chico’s (CHS) - 10201443 4.46 0.07 29.27 3.40 (PERY) 4.2 558104 4.97 0.58 and yearly comparisons. Prices for men’s furnishings 43.40 16.45 Children’s Place (PLCE) - 2119330 19.07 -0.86 47.94 13.04 Phillips-Van Heusen (PVH) 5.9 2253900 17.81 -0.45 increased 0.6 percent for the month and 5.1 percent 12.19 2.46 Christopher & Banks (CBK) 60.9 488283 4.35 -0.51 2.10 0.22 Phoenix Footwear (PXG) - 20143 0.19 -0.12 from January 2008. Shirts and sweaters were up 3.2 percent in January, but slipped 1.2 percent year-to- 33.73 19.51 Cintas (CTAS) 10.5 7089894 21.70 -1.23 82.02 31.22 Polo Ralph Lauren (RL) 7.9 8289910 35.56 -1.71 year. Pants and rose 3.6 percent in monthly 28.12 7.01 Citi Trends (CTRN) 10.3 608922 12.05 1.20 141.50 31.06 PPR * (PP:PA) 5.9 4011393 43.02 0.48 comparisons and 0.6 percent from a year earlier. Suits, 37.64 13.19 Coach (COH) 6.3 27674491 13.74 -0.23 29.73 10.35 PriceSmart (PSMT) 11.9 412273 17.14 -1.38 sport coats and outerwear prices declined 1.5 percent 8.31 0.91 Coldwater Creek (CWTR) - 2310909 2.06 -0.89 10.67 0.07 Quiksilver (ZQK) - 2321711 1.46 -0.11 in January and 3.8 percent for the 12-month period. 80.49 54.36 Colgate Palmolive (CL) 16.6 12645641 59.48 -3.65 8.84 4.85 R.G. Barry (DFZ) 6.7 36968 5.91 -0.18 Boys’ apparel prices increased 0.5 percent in January, 21.00 3.85 Collective Brands (PSS) 20.9 3703149 9.87 -1.02 24.28 3.45 Ramco-Gershenson (RPT) 3.5 800081 4.67 -0.38 but declined 0.9 percent year-over-year. 49.49 26.07 Columbia Sprtswr (COLM) 10.7 606631 29.72 0.01 73.55 23.36 Regency Centers (REG) 11.5 8609773 29.03 -0.24 75.23 41.72 Costco (COST) 14.6 24514251 42.76 0.00 7.46 0.90 Retail Ventures (RVI) 1.4 596951 1.84 -0.38 27.74 0.79 Crocs (CROX) - 7550648 1.15 -0.09 14.85 2.73 Revlon (REV) 1.4 906667 2.75 -0.96 IN BRIEF 0.18 0.02 Cygne Designs (CYDS) - 15470 0.03 -0.01 83.00 15.89 Richemont * (CFR:VX) 3.9 11350352 16.49 -1.24 • WAL-MART TO SETTLE BIAS SUIT: Wal-Mart Stores Inc. 146.60 46.27 Deckers Outdoor (DECK) 10.5 2625168 57.60 2.93 41.56 21.70 Ross Stores (ROST) 13.4 8693323 30.79 0.09 agreed to pay $17.5 million to settle a class-action law- suit charging the Bentonville, Ark.-based retailer with 3.50 1.50 Delia’s (DLIA) 181.0 233484 1.76 -0.11 3.72 0.44 Safilo * (SFL:MI) 11.7 2855864 0.59 -0.04 discrimination on the basis of race against African- 9.15 2.09 Delta Apparel (DLA) 6.7 17600 4.00 -0.05 17.28 1.59 Saks (SKS) - 9370268 1.70 -0.22 Americans in recruiting and hiring truck drivers. Wal- 20.21 5.72 Destination Maternity (DEST) - 30308 7.23 -0.99 112.80 26.80 Sears (SHLD) 19.2 4929284 38.03 -0.96 Mart denied any wrongdoing. The settlement is still 45.66 1.73 Developers Diversified (DDR) 2.9 27803546 2.63 -0.81 106.43 33.78 Simon Properties (SPG) 18.4 34920255 36.22 -1.83 subject to court approval in U.S. District Court for the 23.11 2.50 Dillard’s (DDS) - 3842476 4.05 -0.41 25.20 6.78 Skechers (SKX) 3.9 4170046 6.94 -0.38 Eastern District of Arkansas. In addition, Wal-Mart 17.93 6.16 Dress Barn (DBRN) 8.8 4456987 10.29 0.82 3.37 0.15 Sport-Haley (SPOR) - 1100 0.40 -0.03 agreed that its logistics division would, among other 20.69 7.30 DSW (DSW) 11.3 714921 8.89 -1.22 6.65 0.99 Stein Mart (SMRT) - 239173 1.15 0.01 things, give priority job placements to 23 of the class 24.00 7.09 Duckwall-Alco (DUCK) - 600 10.10 -0.44 29.00 13.37 Steve Madden (SHOO) 12.3 948812 16.78 -0.17 members and provide direct notice about future job 8.72 0.30 Eddie Bauer (EBHI) - 146554 0.83 0.01 76.50 23.05 Swatch Group * (UHRN:SW) - 441529 26.20 -2.20 opportunities to all class members. 21.79 5.18 Elizabeth Arden (RDEN) - 981831 6.03 -0.50 17.86 5.43 Syms (SYMS) - 48055 5.50 -0.76 54.75 24.24 Estée Lauder (EL) 11.9 8852311 24.73 -2.16 17.97 1.19 Talbots (TLB) - 2290999 2.23 -0.56 32.50 18.00 Family Dollar (FDO) 15.6 12855619 27.02 0.41 7.65 1.25 Tandy Brands (TBAC) - 9164 1.71 0.26 WEEKLY 12.43 2.76 Finish Line (FINL) - 2678612 4.34 -0.06 3.37 1.55 Tandy Leather Factory (TLF) 7.1 35091 1.75 -0.11 WWD 37.98 11.00 Fossil (FOSL) 6.9 6492963 13.64 1.55 46.30 24.62 Tanger Factory Outlet (SKT) 39.4 4768278 29.49 1.30 CHANGE 3.99 0.16 Frederick’s of Hollywood (FOH) - 20500 0.35 0.07 59.55 25.60 Target (TGT) 9.1 55649296 29.75 -0.33 ENDING 15.91 8.22 Freds (FRED) 35.4 1208711 8.75 -0.54 0.96 0.21 Tarrant Apparel (TAGS) - 29807 0.37 -0.16 ( FEB. 20 ) % INDEX 196.75 30.00 French Connection * (FCCN:L) 159.7 537047 50.00 -1.00 92.35 15.57 Taubman (TCO) 23.5 8786506 17.46 -0.18 21.89 9.41 Gap (GPS) 8.5 31145847 11.55 -0.07 3.65 0.18 Tefron (TFRFF) - 0 3.23 0.00 Gainers Change Composite 44.23 0.24 General Growth (GGP) 2.1 18612586 0.46 -0.09 49.98 16.75 Tiffany & Co. (TIF) 8.4 15728800 19.75 -0.43 Birks & Mayors 57.14 38.74 10.37 Genesco (GCO) 2.8 1484963 14.36 -0.55 19.41 7.19 Timberland (TBL) 15.4 1677193 11.10 -0.54 640.03 23.00 3.58 G-III Apparel (GIII) 3.3 834321 3.57 -0.46 37.52 17.80 TJX Cos. (TJX) 10.3 18857107 21.30 -0.34 Cabela’s 27.73 40.17 6.84 Gildan Activewear (GIL) 7.2 6445364 6.98 -0.28 64.48 25.23 Tod’s * (TOD:IM) 11.0 237221 29.91 -1.59 Frederick’s of Hollywood 25.00 13.46 0.75 Glimcher (GRT) - 2105627 1.35 -0.16 31.82 9.83 True Religion (TRLG) 6.8 1686811 11.96 1.40 Tandy Brands 17.93 39.90 17.05 G&K (GKSR) 11.2 204136 18.53 -1.42 31.21 2.07 Tween Brands (TWB) 3.6 1002363 2.55 -0.45 True Religion 13.26 0.96 0.08 Gottschalks (GOTTQ) - 134529 0.11 -0.04 43.92 14.89 Under Armour (UA) 20.2 3478740 14.75 -1.07 45.21 10.26 Guess (GES) 7.2 5985123 17.25 0.59 5.43 0.97 Unifi (UFI) - 849356 0.93 -0.20 Decliners Change 47.69 16.48 Gymboree (GYMB) 8.2 2191703 25.29 -0.16 34.89 19.25 Unilever (UL) - 5801813 19.43 -0.87 12.80 2.00 Hampshire (HAMP) - 83160 2.00 -0.50 38.40 12.33 Urban Outfitters (URBN) 12.6 20399897 16.07 -0.43 Phoenix Footwear -38.68 37.73 6.87 Hanesbrands (HBI) 5.3 4096652 6.65 -0.95 84.60 38.22 VF Corp. (VFC) 9.6 6354316 53.26 0.35 Tarrant Apparel -30.19 0.53 0.02 Hartmarx (HTMXQ) - 1213840 0.01 -0.01 28.88 6.39 Volcom (VLCM) 5.5 2851135 7.79 -0.92 Coldwater Creek -30.17 433.50 239.50 Hennes & Mauritz * (HMB:ST) 17.9 15041707 331.00 2.00 63.85 46.25 Wal-Mart (WMT) 14.9 142570394 50.02 3.49 Charming Shoppes -27.62 +3.94 131.89 59.42 Hermès * (RMS:PA) 25.7 588055 71.60 -6.02 53.89 12.22 Warnaco (WRC) 11.6 3364098 21.22 -1.21 Gottschalks -26.67 9.89 4.04 Hot Topic (HOTT) 22.2 2341766 8.88 -0.43 40.00 8.27 Weingarten (WRI) 5.6 8640624 12.76 -0.84 21.09 13.27 IAC Interactive (IACI) - 10754494 15.05 0.00 5.54 1.85 Wet Seal (WTSLA) 6.9 1931287 2.64 -0.07 * Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency of 22.80 5.11 Iconix (ICON) 7.2 1746742 8.46 -0.79 41.99 23.82 Weyco (WEYS) 14.0 110214 24.80 -2.96 their principal exchanges. Shares on the London Stock Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch Group are quot- 53.90 23.29 Inditex * (ITX:MC) 14.4 9405109 29.21 -2.49 31.21 15.92 Wolverine (WWW) 8.5 2245041 16.21 -0.66 ed in Swiss francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quoted in Swedish 19.96 4.64 Inter Parfums (IPAR) 7.2 363596 6.19 -0.73 30.89 1.11 Zale (ZLC) - 1793721 1.15 -0.22 kronor. All other European stocks are in euros. 1.96 0.16 IT Holding * (ITH:MI) - 0 0.18 0.00 28.84 4.50 Zumiez (ZUMZ) 10.8 636268 8.36 -0.65 2x53x7 (right)

WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2009 29 WWD.COM Fossil Net Slides, Firm Cutting Costs Richemont Bracing for More Layoffs By Katya Foreman produces watch boxes. The plan is to put 180 of By Alexandra Steigrad the 200-strong staff on part-time contracts at 80 PARIS — Compagnie Financière Richemont SA percent of their salaries. FOSSIL INC. MATCHED ANAL- has drawn up plans for potential job cuts in its January exports for Swiss timepieces fell 21.5 ysts’ estimates with lower fourth- watch-making division should the economic situ- percent versus a year ago to 950.6 million Swiss quarter earnings last week but ation deteriorate, according to a Swiss union. francs, or $850.6 million at average exchange forecast a slow beginning to 2009 Jean-Claude Rennwald, head of the watch- rates, according to the Federation of the Swiss and said it was instituting selec- making unit of Unia, Switzerland’s largest union, Watch Industry. tive layoffs and other cost-cutting confirmed that a Richemont plan was in place The news follows a dismal fourth quarter for initiatives. but declined to outline details, notably how many the industry, culminating in a 7.6 percent decline A stronger dollar weakened the workers the layoffs could impact and which in exports in December. “The [January] decrease company’s overseas revenue. Net brands would be involved. comes as no surprise as we’ve been experiencing income for the three months ended A spokesman for Richemont, which owns a decline since last October,” said Jean-Daniel Jan. 3 fell 12.9 percent to $46.3 mil- brands including Cartier, IWC, Jaeger LeCoultre, Pasche, president of the trade association, also lion, or 69 cents a diluted share, Piaget and Baume & Mercier, did not return citing tough comps following a stellar 2008. from $53.1 million, or 75 cents, in phone calls Friday. Sales in 2009 are expected to continue to slide last year’s quarter. Excluding charg- “Maurice Lacroix and Movado [Group Inc.] for at least the first quarter. es related to write-downs and other have already made layoffs, and I can’t exclude that The downturn in exports affected all price items, profit was 84 cents a share. there won’t be more to come,” the union official segments, Pasche said, spanning entry-level Revenue rose 0.2 percent to $464.1 said, adding that partial unemployment has been wristwatches (priced at $170 and below), which million from $463.1 million. Gross a popular option for many Swiss watch brands. saw a 39.2 percent drop, to sales on luxury time- margins dropped 140 basis points Last week, Switzerland’s federal council ex- pieces, which slid 14 percent. January exports to 52.2 percent of sales. tended the period for partial unemployment to Hong Kong and the fell by Analysts polled by Yahoo expect- benefits from 12 to 18 months. 12 percent and 28.5 percent, respectively, ed earnings per share of 69 cents on Last month, Cartier said it planned to Pasche said. sales of $483.5 million. scale back investment at its Villars-sur- Burdened by the rise of the Glâne factory in western Switzerland, which For more on Richemont’s outlook, see WWD.com. dollar, international wholesale sales declined 8.9 percent and dropped 9.2 percent in Europe. On A Fossil watch. a constant dollar basis, total wholesale sales grew 0.9 percent and De Beers Reduces Diamond Production European sales rose 3.2 percent, the company said. By Samantha Conti downturn in demand this year. Fossil said a shift in sales mix to its direct-to-consumer segment, “We believe these decisions will sustain the which benefited profitability in the fourth quarter, will hurt first- LONDON — De Beers SA said it expects diamond business in 2009,” he said, adding these were and second-quarter results in 2009. retailers worldwide to reduce their inventory “extraordinary times.” As a result, the company expects first-quarter sales to fall 8 to 10 levels in the first half of 2009. As reported, De Beers is also mulling selling percent and earnings to decline to a range of 14 to 16 cents a diluted As a result, De Beers has already begun of- surplus stock to the secondary market. share, below the consensus estimate of 19 cents. fering fewer rough diamonds to its wholesale cli- On Friday, De Beers SA said fourth-quar- Fossil said it has initiated a hiring freeze and suspended merit- ents during its monthly sales. ter sales for the fiscal year ended Dec. 31 had pay increases, bonus payments and company contributions toward Gareth Penny, group managing director at slowed “significantly” after nine months of buoy- employee retirement plans. De Beers, said Friday in a Webcast for the firm’s ant growth. Total sales for the year rose 1.5 per- Best known for watches under the Fossil and licensed brands, 2008 earnings report that the diamond company cent to $6.9 billion from $6.8 billion, while net the company said it has instituted salary reductions for all execu- was reducing its production levels and slashing profit was $90 million, compared with a loss of tive officers and senior vice presidents, and is completing selective capital expenditures in anticipation of a further $521 million last year due to one-off items. layoffs across its global organization. Fossil expects annual savings of about $16 million from these reductions. “The challenging global economic environment and the expected continuing impact on discretionary retail companies require us to remain vigilant in managing the relationship between our revenue and operating expense growth,” said Mike Barnes, president and chief operating officer, adding that the company has over $175 mil- lion in cash, a strong cash flow model and no outstanding borrow- ings under its revolving credit facility. For the year, Fossil’s profit rose 12 percent to $138.1 million, or $2.02 cents a share, versus $123.3 million, or $1.75 cents, a year ago. Excluding charges, EPS was $2.06. Net sales grew 10.5 percent to $1.58 billion from $1.43 billion last year. Shares of Fossil picked up 46 cents, or 3.8 percent, to close at $12.55 in Nasdaq trading Tuesday.

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WWD_3.875x5.indd 1 2/6/09 9:53:06 AM 30 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2009 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS Professional Services For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 212.630.3963 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.

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et event for 7Bar Foundation, a charity tar retail following store openings in EIM that extends microfinance to women Boston and Chicago in 2008. Agent R in South America, , Jamaica, Provocateur operates 10 stores in

Mexico and Miami, said the combined the U.S. PARRA/WI elements “empower women.” “I’m still looking for a good op- “Lingerie makes them feel beau- portunity in uptown Manhattan for JOHN BY tiful and special, and microfinance a flagship,” Corre said. “Women may helps them feed their kids and not be able to afford thousands of PHOTOS break the cycle of poverty, which is dollars of clothes, but they can look Left: Eva Longoria Parker. Above: A saucy look by Fifi Chachnil Deepak’s platform,” Black said. and feel just as good by spending a and a colorful set from Carine Gilson. Black, who frequently travels to few hundred dollars on quality linge- Europe, said, “Europeans take so much rie. We’ve never been about the trend to rompers, bubblegum pink polkadot baby dolls and pride in lingerie. There are tons of bou- make goods cheaper. We just can’t do what black petticoats. tiques and entire floors of department stores we do without using the real thing.” Gilson was the vamp. To the cue of Edith Piaf, models and magazines devoted to it.” Chachnil, who has been scouting Los Angeles for sauntered in silk chemises layered with corsets, kimono It was a coup to harness Agent Provocateur, which retail space, has two shops in Paris and sells to 90 spe- cuts and black . Rather than prints, Gilson relies on rarely does fashion shows, according to cofounder Joe cialty doors worldwide, including Barneys New York. the quality of her laces and in hot pink to nude. Corre, because its retail-only strategy doesn’t rely on “I started in the Eighties when women weren’t al- “Each piece, about 9,000 annually, is handmade in presentations to wholesale buyers. He said the charity lowed to look like women on the outside, so all we had my factory in Brussels,” said Gilson, who opened her attracted him. was our lingerie to make us feel feminine,” she said. first boutique in Paris in 2005, followed by a second in “Renata gets results, so I know where my money is Chachnil presented 15 looks inspired by Brigitte London, and sells to 25 accounts like Neiman Marcus, going,” said Corre. Bardot and the Moulin Rouge, including sheer red Nancy Meyer and Agent Provocateur.

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EXPERIENCED OPERATIONS Account Executive SALES REPRESENTATIVE NEEDED Patterns/Samples/Production WOMENS FOOTWEAR CO. Key sales person needed for the Ellen Cashmere , , blankets. Any Style. We do Bridal/Evening SAN FRANCISCO ALLOCATER Tracy showroom. Current experience Comm based only. All territories avail. Gowns custom made & wholesale. Wanted for Woman’s Apparel Importer. in bridge/contemporary brands is Spas, Lingerie Stores, Gift stores, etc. 214 W 29th St Call: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 FOOTWEAR DESIGNER Fax Resume with salary. needed. Must have strong relation- Go getter, great oppty, exp. necessary. Seeking a designer that will design ROUSSO APPAREL 212-730-8032 ships with dept and specialty stores Email resume: [email protected] Just Steps to Penn Station contemporary, trend-right footwear and be able to bring in and take over with a distinctive edge. The designer existing clients. Ideal candidate will PATTERNS, SAMPLES, must have excellent design and creative Merchandiser $120 - 125k BOE Units from Current exp in imported Jr. & missy be a highly motivated sales professio- Salesperson Wanted ability and be able to take product nal with 5yrs experience. Intimate Apparel Company based in PRODUCTIONS from concept to final sample. Minimum swimwear required. Planning, timing, 2,500 Sq. Ft. All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. etc. Midtown established company. Please email resumes to: NYC seeking experienced salesperson, Call Sherry 212-719-0622. of 5 years experience. BA/BS/ BFA in [email protected] pls fax resume to 646-478-9819 Design a plus. [email protected] 973-564-9236 Sales Exec. $200 +++ Min 5 yrs current to 8,000 Sq. Ft. ASSISTANT FOOTWEAR DESIGNER Planner to $95K Walmart proficient. exp in young mens accessories or Ideal candidate will have the ability to young mens casual sprtswr req’d. Priv Harve Schuster, SrVP sketch with direction from the Strong exp in planning for private label PATTERNS, SAMPLES, apparel co dealing with Retail Link, label. Popular priced. Los Angeles designer/creative director and assist based req’d. Company will not relo. 212-696-7119 with all aspects of the line development. Walmart 3-5 years min exp. PRODUCTIONS [email protected] 973-564-9236 Will lead to CEO position for aggressive www.walter&samuels.com Full service shop to the trade. Min 3 yrs experience. BA/BS/BFA in indiv w/ desire to become CEO in 3-4 Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Design a plus. years. 65 mill vol company. HANDBAG/ACCESSORY DESIGNER ACCESSORIES CO. [email protected] 973-564-9236 The Designer will have a good graphic Fast paced, NYC based accessories design sense to design handbags and company seeks to fill the following SALES small leather goods that compliment entry level positions in the jewelry Movie Star, a manufacturer of intimate Search the footwear lines and be able to take division. Assist to the Sr. Designer, apparel seeks an aggressive, experienced product from concept to final sample. Graphic Designer, Data Entry. Assist NY based sales person to cover small hundreds of Minimum of 5 years experience. Merchandiser. All positions salary, and mid-size stores. Looking to add BA/BS/BFA in Design a plus. benefits +401K. Salary based on expe- new customers to an already established WALTER & SAMUELS positions in E-Mail resumes and salary req to: rience. E-mail resumes to: business. 3-5 years selling experience Brokers Wanted [email protected] [email protected] preferred. Please send resume to: New York City-based year old men’s fashion, retail [email protected] sleep/loungewear company looking to AGENTS expand from web to retail seeks Showrooms & Lofts and beauty. Designer $100-125K BOE. Strong One Management, one of America’s SALESPERSON results- oriented brokers reps around BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS current exp in girls newborn. Must leading entertainment agencies, is the country. Must have contacts in the Dynamic Children’s Apparel Co. in boutique, specialty store market. Great ’New’ Office Space Avail hang with Ralph Lauren, Polo, Tommy seeking to hire highly experienced talent business for over 20 years desires an ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Hilfiger, Quiksilver, J. Crew etc. agents in the fields of fashion and music. Email resume to: Aggressive Salesperson to sell Labeled [email protected] [email protected] 973-564-9236 Submit your resume to: and Generic Children’s Clothing. [email protected] Heavy emphasis on boys. Must have established customer base. Designer $100-125K BOE. Strong exp in BOOKKEEPER F/C $60-65K. Current Fax Resume to HR Dept: 212-997-9252 boys infant toddler. Must hang with exp in apparel or software accessory co SALESPERSON Ralph Lauren, Polo, Tommy Hilfiger, reqd. loc. Near Nassau County. Fast growing leather handbag line Quiksilver, J. Crew etc. Will have duties comparable to control- needs salesperson for showroom. SHOWROOM/OFFICE SPACE FOR RENT [email protected] 973-564-9236 ler. [email protected] 973-564-9236 Fun space in Chelsea. Join existing Email resume to: [email protected], fashion tenants in this waterview loft or fax 212-730-2372. building. Please call Chris Flagg at Controller/Director of Finance 212-695-8090 Designer shoes/ $125-150K BOE. $115-125K. Current strong exp in Sales Rep Current exp in design thru to final apparel co required CPA required. Will prod devel req’d. Sketching, specing. manage 25 indivs. North Central NJ Must have exp in China. Will travel to location. Will report to CFO. Canadian Apparel manufacturer of better SALES ROLE SALES MGMT China 4-6 times a year. [email protected] 973-564-9236 to bridge designer line seeks experi- Small NY metro sales office with im- [email protected] 973-564-9236 enced Sales Reps to promote brand mediate avail to compliment your ex- Credit & Collection Manager To $75K. growth and sales in the Chicago, NY & isting national team with local rep to Current exp in all aspects of credit and CA markets. Must have established re- Designer to $50K. Current exp in design key accounts in NYC. 20+ yrs in collection for apparel or accessory co lationship w/dept & specialty stores. Bentonville and Minneapolis as well as of cosmetic packaging for girls & kids. reqd. Must have good work history. Email [email protected] Illustrator & Photoshop. Midtown Co. National cust base exp/sales and sales Queens loc. Near Nassau County line stating "Sales Agent." For add’l info mgmt. E-mail: [email protected] [email protected] 973-564-9236 [email protected] 973-564-9236 please see our ad on fashionCareers.com 824 MADISON AVENUE, NEW YORK 212 439 4220 - 1-866-DEGRISO

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