Friday, September 21, 2018 21 LIFE CHINA DAILY HONG KONG EDITION PARTY HAS JUST BEGUN Ralph Lauren celebrates 50 years of his business with a retrospective of his iconic collections, Wang Linyan reports in New York.

anhattan’s Cen­ sented day and evening wear er tastes may have changed, “When we talk about clas­ tral Park became in bohemian and eclectic he is confident that he under­ sic, that sounds boring. Time­ the stage for a styles, the women’s collection stands his customer base. less is how to stay exciting and star­studded highlighted modern suits, vel­ “Every woman has a differ­ interesting, because it’s ... gala on Sept 7 as iconic Ameri­M vet gowns and knits infused ent style and a different taste. about moving forward and can fashion designer Ralph with artisanal patchworks But I think I’ve consistently changing. The constant Lauren celebrated his compa­ and beading. had a point of view, and have changes over the years have ny’s 50th anniversary. A mix of utilitarian work­ continued to attract custom­ helped the company move for­ For the first time Lauren wear and traditional tailoring, ers both young and old.” ward.” shared a complete panorama the Double RL menswear He thinks men are more Lauren says it’s nice to be of his collections at one event range featured well­worn den­ conservative and enjoy con­ labeled an American icon, but — his women’s collections, im, British tweeds, sweaters sistency, while women prefer as the company’s founder, he men’s Double RL range and and leathers that evoked a change. works hard to build concepts his Polo Ralph Lauren collec­ feeling of both being lived­in “In many ways, men’s styles and develop teams. tions — to celebrate the char­ and well­traveled. don’t change much, but wom­ “The next 50 years should be acter and beauty of the themes The Polo collection is en’s tastes always alter dra­ very exciting”. that inspired him over the last infused with Lauren’s signa­ matically,” he says, adding that half a century. ture preppy look, combining he has had lots of opportuni­ Contact the writer at While the Ralph Lauren Ivy League classics and ties to learn and experiment. wanglinyan@ Collection and Double RL pre­ English haberdashery with Lauren says staying current chinadaily.com.cn downtown styles and all­ while maintaining an identity American sporty cool. is a difficult process: “I think As earth tones prevailed you still have to view every on the runway, a glamorous year as a new year and every audience of around 200 From left: Vera Wang, Calvin Klein, Kevin Baker, Donna Karan, Michael Kors and Lance LePere, season as a new season.” celebrity guests, including celebrities attending a party for the 50th anniversary of Ralph Lauren’s business on Sept 7. He says the Ralph Lauren Oprah Winfrey, Hillary PHOTOS PROVIDED TO CHINA DAILY Corp has managed to stay Clinton, Steven Spielberg, current by building new Robert De Niro were brands that continue to joined by Lauren’s fel­ and Tommy Hilfiger. After the American designer in Beverly evolve, but he wants his low designers Donna parade, the guests were treat­ Hills, California. brands to stay time­ Karan, Calvin Klein ed to steaks from Lauren’s In 1974, Lauren outfitted less. ranch in Colorado. the male actors in the movie “For my 50th anniversary, I The Great Gatsby in clothes wanted to create and share a from his Polo line, a 1920s­in­ runway experience that was spired range of men’s suits deeply personal and a summa­ and sweaters. He made a pink tion of the style I’ve always suit for Robert Redford’s Jay believed in: personal, authen­ Gatsby. It was perhaps the tic, and forever, in a place so first movie where a fashion quintessentially New York line was used to reflect the and special to me — Central character of the lead charac­ Park,” says Lauren, who hails ter. from the Bronx. His signature cotton Polo Downtown yet sophisticat­ shirt was introduced in 1977, ed, the gala showcased a varie­ featuring the polo player logo ty of ways to wear clothes. on the chest. “The message is to show you Through the Polo brand, a little of the sensibility of Ralph Lauren at his 50th Lauren created a sensibility what made Ralph Lauren anniversary gala with big names for his menswear lines. Each strong,” he says in an inter­ from fashion, entertainment brand was created with a view with China Daily at his and media. point of view: The purple label office before the show. is more sophisticated and of The designer who has better quality; the double RL defined American style for so The next year, Lauren, who is young and ritualistic. many years said he enjoys is interested in sports, named “I see them as movies. They designing for women “who his first full line of menswear all have stories,” says the have good taste’’. Polo. He worked out of a single designer. “I’m showing them how to drawer in a showroom in the But the process of brand­ mix it up, and how to be cur­ Empire State Building and building isn’t just plucked out rent even with clothes that made deliveries to stores by of thin air, he adds. don’t necessarily have to be himself. “It comes from passion, this year’s,” he adds. By 1969, Bloomingdale’s from understanding and Lauren built his business up exclusively sold Lauren’s believing in who you are, and from a single tie design. In men’s line, the first time the staying consistent in your 1967, Lauren, then 28, per­ Manhattan department store voice. I like having the ability suaded the president of tie had given a designer his own to do different things, but I manufacturer Beau Brummell in­store shop. In 1971, Lauren stay consistent as to who I am, to let him start his own line. introduced the Polo player so that when you see the He started by only making emblem on a line of tailored clothes, you say, ‘Ah, that must neckties, which he packed and shirts for women and opened be Ralph Lauren’.” sold himself. the first solo store for an Lauren says while consum­ More Chinese presence at New York Fashion Week

By HONG XIAO in New York don’t think they are all show­ designer is Chinese, I think “They are well­educated in Shanghai and Beijing, as about 500 million millennials [email protected] ing to their best advantage”. it’s misplaced.” and well­traveled. They are part of what she calls a global in China and half of them Collins, who worked as Collins says Western multicultural. I always put customer­centric offering. have at minimum a bachelor’s Earlier this month, design­ dean of the school of fashion designers don’t feel the urge their pursuit as the priority of As for Western brands in degree. This is why I’m so ers, models, photographers at Parsons for seven years, aft­ to use their countries’ flags. my designs.” China, Harlan Bratcher, the excited about working in Chi­ and fashion bloggers from er a career as a fashion “Think internationally,” he Her newest collection head of global fashion busi­ na — because these millenni­ different countries shuttled designer and creative direct­ says. breaks through the tradition­ ness development at JD, one als are really becoming between venues in the Big or for some of the world’s Taoray Wang is a great al colors of suits — black, of China’s largest online middle class. So the power of Apple for New York Fashion leading brands, including example of a Chinese brand white and grey — by adding retailers, where he is respon­ China, you have no idea how Week Spring/Summer 2019. Nike, Polo and Zegna, says that thinks internationally, he more lively colors like blue sible for introducing Western it’s going to rock the world.” The biannual event, which what seems to happen is that says. and pink. brands to China through the He also asks why China recently lowered its curtain, Chinese brands and design­ “You look at her collection, “Some of my customers, platform, says: “Walking doesn’t have more brands showcased upcoming as well ers “do multiple shows and there are no hints that you when they talk to me, includ­ down the streets of Beijing, that are internationally well­ as established designers from sometimes they work with would know she is Chinese, ing Tiffany Trump (an Ameri­ Shanghai or Hangzhou, you known “other than Tsingtao the world of fashion. people who aren’t perhaps they don’t shout ‘China’! can socialite and model), ask see many people wearing beer”. On the week­long event’s experts at creating a show. “Of course China is won­ if I can put more beautiful col­ Western luxury brands, Val­ Wang says: “I think brands schedule, there were 33 Chi­ The audiences are mostly derful, they just don’t have to ors in my designs,” says Wang. entino, Balenciaga, YSL.” take time. nese designers and brands, a Chinese”. push it down people’s “That inspired me to think “I believe more than 60 per­ “For China, the economy full quarter of the total. “So I don’t think they are throats,” he adds. that the new generation of cent of luxury spenders in only started to take off 10 to 15 Last year there were only really getting the return that Taoray Wang, the name­ A model presents creations from women leaders, they have a China are between ages of 18 years ago. 16. they should,” he adds. sake brand founded by Wang Chinese brand Taoray Wang’s very serious side in work, but and 30,” he says at a panel dis­ “I do believe that after a few The names included well­ Collins thinks Chinese Tao, was launched at the 2019 spring/summer collection at they are also very feminine,” cussion on Chinese fashion years we can change our focus established brands such as designers should stop worry­ NYFW in September 2014, the New York Fashion Week on she adds. hosted by the China Institute, from buying others’ brands to Bosideng, JNBY and Semir, as ing about proving to people and since then it has been Sept 8. PROVIDED TO CHINA DAILY For Wang, talking and lis­ where he is joined by Collins innovating and delivering our well as designer brands such that they are Chinese. prominently featured in five tening are key. and Wang. own brands. as Jason Wu, Taoray Wang “The rest of the world collections at the event. “When communication is As for the future of fashion “It’s not only about design; it and Vivienne Hu. doesn’t want to look Chinese Wang agrees with Collins or nationality,” she says. smooth, the globe is flat,” she in China, Bratcher, a retail takes time for people to get to Design guru Simon Collins any more than many Chinese about thinking international­ “My customers have an says. veteran and entrepreneur know you, to understand you, says though more Chinese people wearing traditional ly. international background, This year, Taoray Wang will who was previously CEO of to accept you, to trust you.” brands and designers are par­ Chinese clothing,” he says. “For a brand targeting the they embrace diversity and start selling from its store in Reed Krakoff and CEO of an Bratcher agrees, but adds: ticipating in the premier fash­ “This desire to use Chinese global market, customers are open­minded to try differ­ Manhattan’s SoHo, along Armani Exchange company “It’s not going to take that ion event in the world, “ I motifs to demonstrate the should not be defined by race ent things,” says Wang. with stores in exclusive malls for 14 years, says: “There are long.”