BURMA GAZETTEER THE MANDALAY DISTRICT VOLUME A COMPILED BY Mr. H. F. SEARLE, Settlement Officer, No. III Party. Rangoon Supdt., Govt. Printing and Stationery, Burma. [Price,--Rs. 7-8=1lb. 5] BURMA GAZETTEER. THE MANDALAY DISTRICT VOLUME A. CHAPTER I. PHYSICAL DESCRIPTION. General; Boundaries; Configuration; Rivers; Hills; River Floods; Lakes; Quagmire; Climate; Rainfall. Geology;-Archæan; Tawngpen system; Chaungmagyi series; Ordovician system; Silurian system; Plateau limestone, Devoninn stage; Permo-Carboniferous section; Recent Deposits. Fauna--Snakes; Birds; Flora. General. Mandalay District, the most northerly district of the Mandalay Division of Upper Burma, lies between 21° 42´ and 22° 46´ N. and between 95° 54´ and 96° 46´ E. with an area of 2,131 square miles. Boundaries. It is bounded on the north by the Mogôk Subdivision of the Katha District; on the east by the Hsipaw State of the Northern Shah States; on the south by the Lawksawk State of the Southern Shan States, by the Kyauksè District, and by the Tada-u Township of the Sagaing District; and on the west by the Sagaing and Shwebo Districts. Of the gross area of the district, 427 square miles are occupied for cultivation and 669 square miles are Reserved Forest; of the balance 203 square miles are classed as culturable waste, and 832 square miles as not available for cultivation. Configuration. The main feature of the district is a wide plain, about 700 square miles in extent (of which about 400 square miles are occupied for cultivation), spreading from the Irrawaddy eastwards to the foot of the Shah Plateau, and gradually increasing in width from north to south. This 2 Mandalay District. wedge-shaped plain slopes both southward and westward, and with the exception of the portions that are flooded by the Irrawaddy during the rains, or are irrigated from canals and tanks, is liable to drought owing to the uncertainty of the rainfall. To the north and east of the plain are the hills which form the western edge of the Shan Plateau, running, for the most part in broken parallels north and south. Those in the north, however, taking off from the Mogôk group, end abruptly in the Sagyin Hill, and cover about one half of the Singu Township. The highest points in this system are from 2,000 to 3,600 feet above sea level. The hills to the east take ill the whole of the Maymyo Subdivision. They rise very steeply from the plain and develop into a picturesque plateau with an average height of 3,000 feet above sea level. Rivers. Besides the Irrawaddy which skirts the district for 75 miles on its western boundary, the main rivers of the district are the Chaungmagyi and the Myitngè. Where the Irrawaddy enters the district at its northern end it is only half a mile wide and where it leaves it at its confluence with the Myitngè it is only three quarters of a mile wide. Between these two points it widens out considerably to two or three miles in the dry weather and sometimes as much as eight in the rains. It is studded with rich alluvial islands and is navigable all the year round by the largest river steamers. The Chaungmagyi, known also as the Madaya River and to the Shuns as the Nam Pai, enters the district at its north-east corner and flowing south forms the boundary between it and the Shun States as far as the Maymyo Subdivision. A few miles south of this, it turns to the west at right angles and debouches from the hills at Sèdaw, where the headworks of the Mandalay canal are situated. It then flows westwards across the plain to join a branch of the Irrawaddy close to the Sagyin Hills. The old mouth of the Shwetachaung canal takes off from its southern bank midway between Sèdaw and the Irrawaddy. It is navigable in the rains for country boats as far up as Sagabin:, a few miles west of Sèdaw; before the Mandalay canal was built it was navigable all the year round as far as this. The Myitngè or Doktawaddy, known in the Shun States as the Namtu, forms the southern boundary of the district flowing in a deep gorge through the hills; its bed is full of rapids and falls. It leaves the hills in a north westerly direction near Kywetnapa at the foot of a 2000 feet bluff of the Myaleittaung in the Kyauksè District and Mandalay District. 3 flows across the plain in a series of loops to join the Irrawaddy immediately north of Ava. Its channel in the plains is comparatively narrow and well defined by high banks, with no islands or sandbanks. It is navigable in the rains by country boats and small launches up to the point where it leaves the hills and in the dry weather as far as Gwebin though large dugouts are employed on the whole of its course through the plains all the year round. Hills. Besides the hill masses already mentioned there are isolated hills rising from the Irrawaddy plain. North of the Chaungmagyi, the Shwemyindin, Magwetaya, Bodaw taung and Sagyin hills exclude the Irrawaddy from the country to the east, and though not continuous indicate the line of highest flood. Mandalay Hill Yankintaung, and the Kalamadaung group rise abruptly from the level plain in the south-west of the district. River floods. The western half of the district is flooded annually by the Irrawaddy. The higher portion of the inundated area is usually flooded from August to the middle of September but sometimes the high flood comes about the middle of July, subsides in September and comes again in October or November. In 1903 the ripening kaukti was entirely destroyed in July; in 1892 and again in 1903 the young haukkyi plants were washed out in October. In 1901 the river did not rise sufficiently high and most of the land dependent on inundation was either left fallow or yielded poor crops. In 1904 during the third and fourth weeks of April there was an early rise of the river which damaged standing crops of hot weather paddy and miscellaneous dry crops on low-lying ground which had not yet been gathered. In 1905-06 abormal floods in the Irrawaddy did great damage not only to the paddy lands in the neighbourhood but also to early miscellaneous crops. In 1906-07 the Shwetachaung tract was badly flooded. In 1910-11 heavy floods in the Irrawaddy and Chaungmagyi rivers threw large areas out of cultivation in the Shwetachaung tract, In 1911-12 kaing and kaukkyi over large areas of the riverine tracts were again destroyed by floods from the Irrawaddy, In 1912-13 an unexpectedly late rise destroyed early pulses over a considerable area. In 1914-15 paddy in the riverine tracts was damaged by a late rise of the river. In July 1915 floods damaged the kaukti paddy, In 1916-17 an early rise destroyed some hot weather rice and a high rise in October destroyed or prevented the sowing of winter rice on riverine lands, In 1918-19 an early and 4 Mandalay District. prolonged rise destroyed kaukkyi paddy in the riverine tract of Madaya Township. Floods in the Chaungmagyi sometimes do great damage by breaching the irrigation works In 1913 a flood in October burst the head-works of the Mandalay Canal and destroyed crops over 3,000 acres. The Myitngè annually floods low-lying land on its northern bank. Untimely floods from the hill streams do a great deal of damage to standing crops. If the floods fail early in the year the better class of mogaung paddy land gives a poor yield. If they come too late the lowest mogaung crops are washed away. The principal hill streams are the Kyauk chaung, the Malè chaung, the Kadetchin chaung and the Thèbyu chaung north of the Chaungmagyi, and the Kyetmaôk and Mèzali chaungs south of it. The Nadaung gya chaung, from which the Tônbo canal takes off, is also liable to heavy floods; on the 15th August 1917 they breached the Mandalay Canal south of the Mandalay Lashio road causing considerable damage to the irrigated area below. There are only two lakes: the Shwepyi east of Tôngyi in the Singu Township and the Taungthaman near Amarapura. They are really lagoons fed from the Irrawaddy, which are used for fishing and cultivation when the river falls. In his 1888-89 Report Mr. Gibson describes certain land on the west of the Shwetachaung as follows: "In the kwin of Nammadawsa, Thayetkan north circle, there are about 150 acres of cultivated land which present some extraordinary features. This area is known as the kosèko twin or 99 pits on account of its peculiar nature. The crust or surface is a rich, black, loamy soil kept together by the interlacing of the roots of a thick luxurious creeping grass called myetkyein. It seems to be a wise dispensation of Providence that this grass is bitter in taste and consequently cattle will not graze in its vicinity, the shaky surface not being strong enough to bear their weight. It is firm enough for human beings to carry on cultivation by means of the spade anti the pick- axe instead of the plough. In going over this ground 1 found, by thrusting a bamboo 12 feet long, that this surface of crust was about 3-foot thick, floating on what appears to be a clayey liquid." Mandalay District. 5 Climate and Rainfall. The plains of the district fall within the dry zone. Statistics of temperature are scanty and relate only to Mandalay Town.