BROWARD Fall 1979

Issue Price $2.00

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Broward County The Forman Family­ Everglades Pioneers

Fort Lauderdale Mrs. Stranahan's Own Story

Dania A History of Dania

Plantation How It Was At the Beginning

Profile

Ned Buntline's War in the South Florida Everglades , ,

Celebrating its third year of publication, this Broward Legacy includes selected reprints and articles by contempor­ ary authors. Charles Forman, D.V.M., has contributed an article about his parents which he composed for the ded­ ication of the Hamilton McLure Forman Building, now under construction at the South Florida Education Center. Con­ structed by the University of Florida Department of Agriculture by direction of the State Board of Regents, it will cost in excess of one million dollars. Dr. Forman and his brother Hamilton are local bankers, developers, and philanthro­ pists. Like their father, they are consummate politicians whose interests embrace education, historical preservation, housing, ecosystems, mortuaries, and a host of other local and state concerns. For more than seventy years, longer than any other woman, Broward County's first school teacher cast her beneficient shadow over the county. Ivy Cromartie Stranahan deservedly was known as the First Lady of Fort Lauderdale and patron of the Seminole Indians. She died on August 30, 1971, after surviving her husband Frank for more than forty years. In 1961 the XI Chapter of Delta Kappa Gamma published a mimeo­ graphed edition of Pioneer Women in Education, dealing with pioneer education in Broward County. Prior to publication, Chapter members interviewed Mrs. Stranahan in 1960 and 1961. With permission from the Chapter, the Legacy article is published as an edited version of their interview. In 1948 local realtor Luther Remsburgh promoted sales in the westerly county location of Plantation. That year the newspapers carried Remsburgh's prediction that the few dozen inhabitants of Plantation even­ tually would increase to 25,000 within twenty-five years. To most Broward Countians, this prediction was so far fetched as to boggle the mind. At this time the principal developers in Plantation were Chauncey Robert Clark, Senior and Junior, both transplanted northerners. The Clarks conceived the plan of locat­ ing settlers on large tracts in their Everglades development. Hence, the name Plantation for a city whose present population exceeds thirty thousand. Broward Legacy carries the son's story of how their dream city survived floods and other natural disasters during its first three years of existence. The City of Dania celebrated its seventy-fifth birthday in 1979. It is the oldest incorporated community in Broward County. Many historical artifacts remain to be preserved in this coastal community. Mrs. Marlyn Kemper is Director of Historic Broward County Preservation Board, Department of State, State of Flor­ ida. Awaiting publication of her history of Broward County, tentatively entitled BROWARD 'S HISTORY: FROM EVER­ GLADES,MANGROVES, AND SAWGRASS and subtitled: A TREATISE ON THE GROWTH OF FLORIDA'S BROW­ ARD COUNTY, she has consented to the publication of Chapter Two, "Dania." Broward Countians eagerly an­ ticipate its publication which will portray the saga of men and women who carved an empire out of the watery wil­ derness known as the Everglades. Popular knowledge and appreciation of the Second Seminole War, 1835-1842, are slight compared to the pub­ licity given to the United States' conflicts with the western Indians. Innumerable books, articles, and movies of the western Indians' warfare with the United States have saturated the public for a century. In con­ trast, few ever have seen a prime time movie or documentary which emphasizes the Seminole con­ flict. Yet, this was the United States' longest and most costly Indian war. No doubt, one reason why the Seminole War has been slighted, in spite of several scholarly books on the subject, has been a lack of popular treatment of specific episodes of the conflict. To remedy this hiatus, BROWARD LEGACY presents contrasting accounts of one dramatic war episode. Colonel William Selby Harney's second expedition into the Everglades in January 1841 drew na­ tional attention to the Florida conflict. In addition, it proved to the Americans and Seminoles that the latter no longer could validly boast that American troops lacked the stamina and courage to invade their watery wasteland in pursuit of their people. Young Edward Zane Carroll Judson, alias Ned Buntline, published a melo­ dramatic account of the expedition in which he participated. While his account is poorly written and con­ tains some inaccuracies it does, however, enliven the activities and personalities of the war. An accompanying army officer published his own factual account of the same expedition. In conjunction, these two records provide some comprehension of the difficulties and bitterness which propelled the protagonists.

Continued inside back cover BROWARD

Legaey Staff ID.egacu

Cooper Kirk, Ph.D. Volume3 Falll979 Numbers 3 &4 Acting Editor

Edward J. Foley, Ill Production Editor Carolyn Kayne In This Issue • • • Assistant Editor

Marcia Million and Loretta Scott Editorial Assistants Behind Scenes

The Forman Family: Everglades Pioneers Advisory Council on Publications by Charles Forman, D.V.M ...... 2 And Educational Programs

Regina Tomlinson, Chairman John C. Gerard, VIce-Chairman A History of Dania Patricia Smith, Secretary by Marlyn Kemper ...... 10 Hibbard Castleberry Edward J. Foley, Ill Carolyn Kayne Edward Zane Carron Judson, Alias Ned Buntline Marlyn Kemper by Cooper Kirk ...... 16 Cooper Kirk George McClellan Stuart Mciver Second Expedition of Col. Harney in the Everglades Marcia Million Wilma Williams by Army Officer ...... 19

Sketches of the Florida War Broward County Historical Commlsalon by Edward Zane Carron Judson ...... 21

F. K. Walker, Chairman Wilma Williams, VIce-Chairman Mrs. Stranahan's Own Story Pat Cunningham, Secretary CathiMn Anderson by Ivy Cromartie Stranahan ...... 28 Ray Collier Belmont Com, Jr. Gypsy C. Graves Documents Concerning A Voyage To the Miami Region in 1793 Terry Heyne by Richard K. Murdoch ...... 32 Dr. Susie Holley Garson Kauffman Sarah Keating George McClellan Plantation Genesis: 1946-1949 Leonard Robbins by Chauncey R. Clark, Jr ...... 38 Margaret Staten

Broward County Board of Commissioners

Howard C. Forman, Chairman On The Cover ... Fran Groes, VJc.Chalrman Pat Brown Hamilton M. and wife Blanche Forman were as thorough-going pioneers AnneKolb Jack L. Moes as ever lived in the Everglades. This is a photograph of Ham Forman George Platt about the time when he retired in the 1950's. Gerald Thompson

© Copyright 1979 by the Broward County Historical Commission. All rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced or copied in any form by any means - graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping or information and retrieval systems- without permission of the publisher.

BROWARD LEGACY is published semiannually by the Broward County Historical Commission, 101 B Southeast New River Drive, Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301 . Single copy price, $2.00, subscription, $4.00.

Unless otherwise noted, all photographs are from the archives of the Historical Commission.

Neither the Board of County Commissioners of Broward County, Florida, nor the Broward County Historical Commission are responsible for the statements, con­ clusions or observations herein contained, such matters being the sole responsibility of the authors.

- 1- THE FORMAN FAMILY: EVERGLADES PIONEERS

By Charles Forman It is now hard to believe that my parents Hamilton McLure and Blanche Collins Forman, names intimately as­ sociated with the growth and develop­ ment of Broward County, began their lives here in 1910 in a tent located miles deep in the Everglades. They and others like them sacrificed and labored to make this land habitable and produc­ tive; tens of thousands now live, work, and play in comfort where the alli­ gator, water moccasin, rattlesnake, and mosquito had predominated a few short decades ago. Born on June 24, 1886, in Nashville, Illinois, Hamilton McLure Forman was nurtured in politics by his fa­ ther, attorney WilliamS. Forman. Wil­ liam had moved from Natchez, Missis­ sippi, as a small boy and had served consecutively from 1878 through 1899 as mayor, state senator, United States congressman, and United States Com­ missioner of Internal Revenue. Wil­ liam died on the day when Ham grad­ uated from the University of illi­ nois Law School in 1908. Hamilton married his high school sweetheart Blanche Collins, a beautiful elementary school teacher and princi­ Mrs. Blanche Forman in 1911 with ex· chicken eating alligator. pal. Born in Clinton, Illinois, on July 18, 1884, Blanche grew up and received velopment of one of America's last Many of the first purchasers, how­ her elementary and high school educa­ frontiers, South Florida and the Ever­ ever, stood aghast at their initial tion in East St. Louis, illinois. Her glades. viewing of what they had bought. Wa­ father, Dan Collins, was one of the At that time approximately 150 to ter overlaid the land half the year most respected and admired livestock 200 people, who mainly were farmers, and the sawgrass swamp had no access commission men in the Middle West. lived in the greater Fort Lauderdale to the coast except by boat. Less hardy Blanche attended the University of il­ Area. This was an embryonic frontier, owners saw this giant as uncon­ linois where she was initiated into Al­ a fanning and trading center depen­ querable and left. Others dreamed of pha Chi Omega Sorority of which she dent on the New River and the Florida success and stayed. was an eternally proud alumna. She East Coast Railroad for its existence. taught school briefly and, due to her Separated from the mainland by two However, the realization of dreams ability to secure and maintain disci­ miles of mangrove swamps, the beach to tame the Everglades, the multitude pline, was named principal of the small was accessible only by boat. Additional of unknown problems peculiar and elementary school. families were scattered among the Da­ unique to South Florida, and the de­ Due to a permanent eye injury vie, Dania, Hallandale, Pompano, and velopment of a necessary system of caused by an explosion, Ham could not Deerfield areas. Hollywood was non­ water controls would be delayed by a do the intensive reading which the existent and unplanned. Tourism was lifetime of toil and tears on the part of practice of law required. Believing in unknown. But, people all over the na­ resolute, iron-willed individuals who the Everglades' agricultural potential, tion were enthusiastic about the possi­ stayed and labored through the years Blanche's father convinced the young bilities of draining, developing and to solve these problems. Formans to come to Florida. Thus, in farming the Everglades' muck lands, 1910, Ham and Blanche left the secur­ rich in nitrogen. Sold sight - un­ The Formans purchased supplies in ity and comfort of established so­ seen, South Florida's first nationally Fort Lauderdale, hauled them west by ciety when they boarded a train and advertised speculative land boom was boat up New River and the North headed south to participate in the de- underway. Canal, and lived in a tent on the -2- canal bank a half mile east of the ing and unloading of materials and nal and New River to Fort Lauder­ present Davie Road and State Road produce were done by hand. Adding to dale in order to be sold and shipped 84 intersection. They remained there the backbreaking labor was the fer­ north by railroad. until they were able to erect a small, tilizer which came in 200 pound bags The Indians often would camp near­ one room house out of the hard, Dade instead of 50 pound bags, as it does by and frequently "request" food from County pine that was impervious to now. Blanche's supplies. When drunk, they termites. Neighbors were miles apart. Mules wearing large square wooden would "howl" long into the night. No road was available until1917; there­ "muck shoes" and pulling equipment During these years, Blanche also fore , all transportation was by boat. Be­ soon replaced the manpowered equip­ earned and retained the respect and cause the much maligned modern in­ ment; tractors and mechanized equip­ friendship of the rough, tough men secticides had not yet been developed, ment suitable for the muck lands were who, unannounced, passed through a great variety and multitude of in­ not available for a score of years. In the locks at all hours of the day and sects were a constant threat to crops, addition, frost warnings and weather night. These men were farmers, animals, poultry, and men. Dengue fe­ service bulletins were not available. trappers, fishermen, dredgers, boat­ ver and malaria were . common; other men, hunters, and notorious members diseases, also borne by insects, af­ After the early ordeals, Blanche be­ of Florida's outlaw "Ashley Gang." flicted animals and livestock. At times, came inured to the hardships of One of the gang members was very the mosquitoes were so numerous that frontier life. The women of the Ever­ fond of me and often would bounce they actually would kill unprotected glades were expected to improvise and me on his knee and play with me livestock left in the open. For many make do with the materials and equip­ at length. Years later there were years, the Formans had to sleep under ment at hand. In addition to their mixed emotions in the Forman house­ mosquito netting. There were no domestic burdens the women assumed hold when he was ambushed and killed thoughts of sun bathing or wearing varied agricultural responsibilities. along with the remainder of the "Ash­ shorts and halters. They helped by preparing seed, har­ ley Gang" by a sheriff's posse on the The Formans became the most suc­ vesting, grading and packing. Because old Stuart bridge. cessful growers of Irish potatoes in the no comer grocery store was accessible, area. In order to secure the first stock they had to raise their own chickens for From the standpoint of agricultural of Red Bliss potatoes, which he used eggs and meat. Keeping the alligators, and residential development the For­ for seed, Ham traveled all the way to coons, opposums, wildcats, skunks and mans, together with Broward and Maine to purchase and transport them. snakes out of the chicken pens and Dade Countians as a whole, were Along with fellow pioneers, theirs coops was a continual problem. caught on the horns of a dilemma. Ev­ was a constant struggle for survival. At Blanche became an excellent shot with ery fall, the canals and rivers swelled one point, they owed more than a both rifle and shotgun. There was no and the unprotected muck lands and six months' grocery bill. One cold, electricity, gas, running water, or in­ other vast lowland areas flooded for frosty winter night they began to tow a door plumbing. Water was pumped long periods of time. This condition barge full of essential fertilizer, packed by hand, carried in pails, and heated prevailed until all the excess summer in 200 pound bags, from town to the over an open fire or on a kerosene and fall rain waters in the Kissim­ farm. When the barge sank in eight ("coal oil") or wood burning stove. All mee River Valley, Lake Okeechobee feet of canal water, Ham donned a cooking was done on these types of and the Everglades' areas to the north suit of long underwear, tied a rope stoves. Blanche baked her c :.rn bread. and west, in addition to our local harness around himself, and passed Because there were no freezers, vege­ excess rain water, drained through the the free end of the rope to some strong tables, fruits and meats were cooked canals and rivers into the ocean. There field hands. He dove to the sunken and bottled or canned for preser­ was no question about being flooded barge, seized a bag of fertilizer, and vation. Using tubs and a scrub each fall. We just didn't know for how jerked the rope which signalled the board, clothes were washed by hand. long or by how much. As the flood men to pull him and the fertilizer to the Kerosene ("coal oil") lamps and lan­ waters receded, they were accompan­ surface and onto the canal bank. De­ terns and, on occasion, Coleman ied by the stench of decaying vege­ spite the chilling water, he salvaged mantle gas burning lanterns were the tation and stranded fish. After the every bag of fertilizer and, somehow, sources of artificial light. water had drained off into the ocean, did not become ill. As soon as the canal was opened the Everglades dried out. Initially, all Everglades' farming op­ to Lake Okeechobee boat traffic in erations were performed by hand or by 1912, the Formans assumed the addi­ Every spring muck fires would de­ back-carried hand operated imple­ tional job of operating the locks, now velop locally and out in the dried ments. The land was prepared for known as the Sewell Locks or Lock Everglades. Most of the shallow muck planting by burning and with machete, Number 1. These boats traveled be­ that once covered the South Florida ax, cross-cut saw, shovel, hoe, and tween the coastal settlements and Education Center was burned off long push-plow. The sawgrass left exposed Lake Okeechobee. The Formans moved ago. The remainder of the muck in this limbs cut and bleeding. Ditching fol­ into the lock ten.der's house at its area was destroyed by bacterial oxi­ lowed with pick and shoveL Plant­ present site, two hundred yards west dation when it became dry. Smoke from ing was done by hand or by a hand of Davie Road. Because there was no the major muck fires was so dense that, pushed seeder and fertilizer spread­ railroad line to the Lake Okeechobee one morning, a cleaning truck destined er; dusting and spraying were done area, all supplies had to be hauled by for Miami crashed into Ham Forman's by back-carried instruments. Tools for boat and barge from Fort Lauder­ milk delivery truck which was slowly cultivation were limited to the flat dale to the lake; in return, lake vege­ heading down State Road 7 near the hoe and push plow. Harvesting, grad­ tables and catfish had to be trans­ Fort Lauderdale Water Plant. The ing, packing, crating, and the load- ported down the North New River Ca- driver explained that he was driving on - 3- the wrong side of the road because he barely could see the left side of the road and had not expected that any­ one else would be driving through the dense smoke. At first, the muck fires were fought by hand. Wide "muck shovels" were used as flails in an attempt to smother them. Later, caterpillar trac­ tors and rollers were used to smother the flames. The muck frequently smouldered for months before summer rains extinguished the fires. In addition to the loss of the burned muck and the unpleasantness of breathing the acrid smoke, the coastal water table dropped lower and lower. Without irrigation, crops and pasture grasses stopped growing and died. Municipal well fields became endangered by salt water infil­ tration. Consequently, the City of Mi­ ami had to relocate its well fields west­ ward three times prior to the estab­ lishment of the Central and Southern "Big Red," prize brood cow of Forman's Dairy, with young Hamilton C. Florida Flood Control District. Forman in 1924. The prize somehow had made her way to South Florida from Prior to canal development and Norway. drainage of the Everglades, this cycle cessing operation, purchased supplies South Florida dairy industry. They of flood and drought did not occur. The and materials, kept the farm and pro­ bluntly told the local dairymen, "You coastal lowlands and the Everglades cessing records, and paid the bills. will take whatever we give you, or we had been kept flooded because ex­ For at least a generation, fifty years will break you and squeeze you out." cess summer and fall rainfall in the before "Women's Lib," Blanche was a For thirty years the Formans con­ Kissimmee River Valley and in the successful businesswoman who was tinued to sell premium quality raw Everglades naturally were impounded accepted and respected by the busi­ milk with a bacterial count pre­ in the Everglades as a reservoir as this nessmen of South Florida with whom dominantly in the 1,000 to 5,000 per water drained very slowly southward she dealt. However, she would have cubic centimeter range, averaging 5 through the sawgrass toward the been appalled by many of the state­ percent butterfat. By 1947 the dairy southern tip of Florida. The coastal ments currently issued in the guise of mainly was selling pasteurized milk fresh water aquifers were constantly women's lib. A woman of great and, during the 1947 flood, commenced recharged underground by the perco­ pride, she considered herself a lady selling pasteurized milk only. Like the lation of this fresh water from the first, last, and always. 1926 hurricane, this flood all but fi­ natural Everglades' reservoir. Through nancially wiped out the Formans. For­ the years, Ham spent a major share of Ham ran the farm, milked the cows man's Dairy began to artificially insem­ his time controlling the water on his and, then, using a Model T Ford, de­ inate all its cows in 1941, some years own land and developing an effective livered the milk house-to-house in Fort prior to other commercial dairy opera­ water control program for Broward Lauderdale. Operating a producer­ tors in the state. In the 'fifties they County and the coastal area. distributor dairy was a seven-

which she tread, was finally abolished The additional loss of many cows all of the American Revolution and the under Governor Fuller Warren's ad­ but ruined them financially. For the P.E.O. and she heartily supported the ministration, 1949-1953. Originally, Formans and South Florida, the Great Disciples of Christ Church denomina­ Governor Warren had campaigned Depression was ushered in three years tion. Her community and her family, against the establishment of a state early by the hurricane. When her men­ consisting of two sons, their wives, and sales' tax. However, when he realized folk carried guns to prevent the six grandchildren, also received much that the only practical way to se­ equally determined Lake Okeechobee of her attention and affection. This cure the tax money needed both to region farmers from blasting the early Bible-oriented pioneer woman spent adequately implement the state min­ dams and water control structures her lifetime enabling others to suc­ imum foundation program for funding constructed by Ham, her faith still ceed. A dedicated wife and mother, public education and to establish the sustained her through the long she gave, expected, and usually re­ Central and Southern Florida Flood nights. ceived the best from those around Control District, he successfully In later years, Blanche engaged in her. In 1959 she died. supported the implementation of all activies associated with the Daughters three programs. Blanche's indomitable faith and spir­ it carried her through the early hard­ ships of pioneer life with its con­ stant threats of environmental catas­ trophies caused by weather, in­ sects, disease, and fire. The virulent in­ fluenza epidemics after World War I and the guns which her men carried during the threat of "range war" with "open range" cattlemen were trying experiences. Her spiritual beliefs also supported her during the , destructive 1926 hurricane which des­ troyed or severely damaged their build­ Growing up on the frontier. The Forman family in 1925. Hamilton C., Charles, ings, equipment, fences, and pasture. Hamilton M. and Blanche Forman. -7- Site of South Florida Education Center in 1949. Much of this site in that year was Forman irrigated pasture­ land.

Ham was a dedicated, lifelong con­ ing, Ham persevered to become the servative democrat. But, occasionally, best two-mile runner in the Big Ten he crossed party lines when he deemed Conference during his senior year. This it in the best interests of his com­ training was useful for South Florida munity and nation. Very patriotic, he pioneering; he often ran cross-country thoroughly believed in the United from the Sewell Lock to Fort Lauder­ States and its form of government. dale, through the palmettoes, before He was a Rotarian and a member of the road was built in 1917. Upon the First Christian Church of Fort Lau­ request of the boys, he voluntarily derdale, the same congregation his coached the Fort Lauderdale High wife served. School Track Team in the 1919-1920 era. After training all year, the team Most other businessmen studiously advanced from the poorest in the area avoided becoming actively involved in to the best in the state. Ham then politics because they felt it might convinced the school board to hire hurt business. But, on every elec­ John Prescott from the University tion day during the forty years when of lllinois as the school's track coach his customers received their milk and as Broward County's first paid delivery, they also received leaflets coach. It was during these early and brochures prepared and paid for by years that Fort Lauderdale High Ham. He told them who and what to School's athletic teams became known vote for, and why. Because they knew as the Flying L 's. Ham remained an that he did his "homework" and was avid and enthusiastic supporter of ath­ conscientious and sincere in his efforts, letics all his life. many of his customers came to look for Although Ham passionately hated and rely upon his recommendations. bond issue financing, he helped to fi­ He believed that one could accomp­ nance the campaign which passed the lish almost anything worthwhile if one 1956 Broward County School Bond is­ worked hard enough; and he did not sue, the first to be passed since the care who received the credit. At the Forman family Christmas reunion "boom-bust" and the Great De­ end of his junior year at the Univer­ 1944. Left to right: Blanche, Hamilton pression. sity of lllinois Law School, Ham had M., Mrs. Charles (Lucile F.), daugh­ As a pioneer vegetable farmer, pro­ decided to earn a letter in track. ter Beverly, Charles and Hamilton C. ducer-distributor dairyman, water con­ Without any experience or prior train- Forman. trol expert and advocate, Ham made -8- HAPPY DAY! Burning of the last Napoleon B. Broward Drainage District bonds in August 1946. District Board members I.T. Parker and Hamilton M. Forman burnt the indebtedness papers held by Mrs. Aires, District secretary. valuable contributions to Broward His "finale" was on behalf of educa­ local and state interests to secure the County. Like most activitists, he real­ tion. He received a firm commit· construction money for such purposes, ized that the success of private eco­ ment from United States Senator educational facilities would be con­ nomic considerations depended upon George Smathers and full support from structed on the site. The senator, fur­ the political climate and policies of gov­ Senator Spessard Holland and Con­ thermore, insisted despite all of ernment. As a result, he became a gressman Paul Rogers that the land the federal laws, rules, and regu­ consummate politician who devoted a which the Formans had made avail­ lations to the contrary, and despite major share of his time, energy, and able to the Navy at the start of the General Service Administration's money trying to improve this area World War II would never be used ardent desire to sell this proper­ and to secure reponsible government for anything except educational pur­ ty, that this agency would not be at all levels. His major contributions poses. This land is now the site of the permitted to dispose of this property in the political arena were on be­ South Florida Education Center. Sen­ for any purpose except education. It half of agriculture, water control, and ator Smathers made it plain that if the would be reserved for the eventual education. By the very nature and ex­ Broward County School Board would construction thereon of the Nova exper­ tent of his activities, he became a place a portable school on the site, that imental and other public school fa­ controversial figure. regardless of the time it would take cilities, for the Broward Community College and Nova University facili­ ties, and for the transfer of the Agri­ culture Station on Peters Road to the site. Unfortunately, Ham did not live to see the fruition of these com­ mitments. He died September 16, 1961. Even though Ham was seventy-five years of age, as Orville E . Revelle, for­ mer Editor of the Fort Lauderdale News, wrote: "His sudden death was a shock to all of us who knew him be­ cause of his vitality and untiring efforts to get things done. If he thought it was good for Broward County, it was good enough for Hamilton For­ man. If he believed in something, he did more than lip service in its behalf. His contributions to civic projects since he moved here in 1910 are too numer­ ous to mention. He not only watched Broward County grow into a metro­ politan area but he aided that growth Picture in 1955 of Blanche and Ham· for almost half a century. For which ilton Forman during their retirement he'll be long remembered by those years. who knew of his deeds." -9- iStotY.of Dania .. Dania's main street, looking south, in 1912. A paved Dixie Highway replaced this dirt road in 1915.

By MARLYN KEMPER, DffiECTOR state of Florida.~ 4) Dania was chosen to bad served in the state legislature. ~9) Historic Broward County honor early colonists, most of whom During Frost's first trip to Modello in Preservation Board were of Danish extraction . ~ 5) 1901, he encountered fewer than a Department of State, State of Florida J\fter the Seminole wars, the joint dozen shacks scattered about a settle­ tasks of clearing and draining acres ment devoid of any functioning econo­ of sawgrass and swampland to make my. Recognizing its potential as an modem Broward suitable for farming agricultural center, Frost became an Just seventy-five years ago Dania, an were just too tough for potential agent for the Model Land Company and agricultural community which relied settlers who ventured down the Florida embraced the challenge of carving a mainly on bicycle, horse, buggy, and coast. James Ingraham, an official with community in the wilderness. a twice-daily train for its transpor­ the Florida East Coast Railway and its In 1902, after relocating his family tation, became present-day Broward's subsidiary Model Land Company, was to Modello, Frost founded a small first incorporated municipality. On concerned that upon completion of the tomato farm in the East Marsh from November 30, 1904, twenty-eight of Florida East Coast Railway from Palm present day Federal Highway to the thirty-five registered freeholders Beach to Miami, freight trains and Intracoastal Waterway. Because of his gathered in Dania's Seminole Hall to Pullman cars would have nothing to foresight, tomatoes became the staple sign a charter calling for Dania's haul. Therefore, Ingraham encouraged of the local economy. incorporation.~ 1) Officers included groups of homesteaders to colonize An enterprising developer, Frost ini­ Mayor John Mullikin; aldermen S.M. the region by making available special tiated the petition to incorporate the Allsbrook, George Jones, C.N. Nilson, discounted train fares, by offering re­ community as Dania and managed to N.C. Pike, and H.T. Tubbs; treasurer bates on shipments of furniture and recruit thirty adult Danes from Oconto, and clerk Roy Roper; and marshal and household goods, and by promoting Wisconsin, to colonize the settle­ collector Press Roper. ~2) Dania was cut-rate land deals and free lots in ment. ~8) Many of the pioneers whom then a part of Dade County which Dania, still known as Modello . ~6) Frost recruited were carpenters as well extended up the coast to the St. At last, in 1898, twelve Danish families as farmers; along the eastern edge of Lucie River. from Chicago made the trek to Model­ the railroad track they erected a clus­ Accounts relate that Captain W.C. lo. Yet, few could endure the hard­ ter of buildings which formed the core Valentine, a civil engineer with the ships snd rigors of pioneer living; of early Dania.~10) Model Land Company, platted the thus, by the tum of the century, In 1902 Frost erected a general store settlement and called it Modello as a Modello was virtually deserted.~7) which housed the post office of which tribute to the Model Land Company, a Undaunted, Ingraham recruited An­ be was named postmaster;~ll) 1903 subsidiary of the Florida East Coast drew Christian Frost. Frost, who was marked the founding of the Dania Railway.~3) The town's name was born in Denmark on September 30, Methodist Church.(l2) In 1904 a rocked changed from Modello to Dania to 1847 and emigrated to the United road was completed to Miami~13) and, avoid postal mix-ups because there States in 1873, had founded several in 1905, Frost constructed Dania's would have been two Modellos in the towns in Wisconsin where he also first school.(l4) After a second story -10- was added, the building became Dania's first hotel. ( 15) Occasionally, however, town council meetings and church services were held in the structure. Much to the chagrin of the towns­ people , it was reported in 1907 that the incorporation proceedings had been improperly filed at the state capitol and in the Dade County Courthouse. Because no legal record then existed of the incorporation, a bill was adopted at the 1907 legislative session which recognized Dania as a township and declared valid and legal those actions of the town officials between the years 1904and 1907.(16) Martin C. Frost, the son of Andrew C. Frost who founded Dania, built his own In 1910 the Miami Telephone Com­ palatial home on Dania's main street in 1924. pany was granted the right to operate a telephone line in Dania(17) town. The citizens of Dania now con­ Norfolk. " (21) Dye continued, " Frost and, in 1911, Dania acquired its template taking in more territory next passed away before the realization of first fire fighting apparatus. This was summer as far as New River. If the his dream, a blessing perhaps, for an Ajax chemical fire engine type Fort Lauderdale citizens on the north some of his ideals might have been number two, purchased for $250.(18) side of the river wish to be incor­ rudely shattered. He might not have Six people were required to convey the porated in Dania, Dania will have no approved paying $60,000 for a dupli­ engine to a fire. objection." (19) Fort Lauderdale did not cation of a set of plans he had carried As Dania became known as the toma­ incorporate, however, until1911. in his pocket for years. "(22) to capital of the world, her farmers Hitching his old bay horse to a farm Councilman, county commissioner, were hailed as the most proficient wagon in 1911, Frost took realtor R.E. and mayor of Dania, Frost's son Martin tomato packers in the nation. Dania Dye on a tour of the community and Frost succeeded his father as agent for grew so rapidly, in fact, that by its environs. Recalled Dye: "The won­ the Model Land Company.(23) Martin 1908 there was talk of annexing Fort derful fields of tomatoes on the East recalled that, initially, Dania had no Lauderdale. In 1908 :Frost published a Marsh looked like the long lost Garden packing facilities; all tomatoes had to letter in the MIAMI NEWS-RECORD of Eden. The John Mullikin and John be shipped by train to Jacksonville stating: "Dania has five stores, one Bryan Groves west of Dania were the where they then were packed and hotel, a stone church, the LaBree boat show places of the County." (20) shipped by boat to New York.(24) works, a blacksmith shop, Mrs. Pal­ According to Dye, Frost's pet project The first two local packing houses were mer's bakery, Coultar's Jewelry, two was the creation of a deep water har­ located in a tent operated by Chase lumber yards, one lawyer, a new bor at Lake Mabel, the site of present and Company and in a shed of tar cement block school, and a jail of day Port Everglades. "Frost had a paper, stretched over poles, operated the same. J.W. Mullikin, J .W. Bryan, blueprint drawn up by competent en­ by Press Roper.(25) A packing house, and George Bloom had automobiles, gineers showing the harbor in nearly later built by Andrew Christian Frost pipes were about to be laid for city the exact location it now stands. That on the east side of the Florida water, a bank was about to open, and was in the days before Joseph Wesley East Coast Railway tracks, subse­ the Dania Canal would be completed Young promoted the development of quently was purchased by Crutchfield in the spring so boats can run up the east coast's deepest port south of and Wolfolk of Pittsburgh.(26) Even-

From rural backgrounds, the Danians were a hospitable people. This 1905 scene depicts Danians at a Sunday afternoon gathering in front of Webb Hotel. - 11 - ford summoned fire chief L. 0. Hansen and the Dania volunteer brigade.(45) By the time the local fire fighters arrived at the scene, the flames had devastated the Dania Hotel. Unable to retrieve personal belongings, all forty of the hotel's registered guests fled the thick smoke and escaped unscath­ ed. Meanwhile, flames leaped thirty feet in the air, illuminating the country­ side and attracting hundreds of spec­ tators. The blaze was the most spectac­ ular in the town's history. (46) Mrs. Crawford managed to call auxiliary fire fighters from Hollywood and Fort Lauderdale by manning her switchboard until it actually became ~om its incorporation in 1904, Dania led the agricultural region from Hillsboro hot from the heat of the burning River to Hall~dale in the production of tomatoes. The Dania Railroad Depot in hotel.(47) But, attempts by visiting the early 1900 s was the focal point for the shipment of tomatoes to northern companies to douse the flames were markets. hindered because their hose lines would not fit the thread of Dania's tually, Dania had two canning factories facility fell through, the city recreation hydrants. Until a line was run and fourteen packing houses in opera­ department held some classes in the four and one-half blocks away to the tion. From his packing facilities, Mar­ building.(35) In the late 1960's and Dania Beach Canal, the one line of the tin Frost processed thousands of boxes 1970's, the Dania Arts and Patrons Dania Company was all that was of tomatoes under the brand names Society sponsored exhibits there.(36) available. By the time the fire was "Frostees" and "Love Apples." (27) The city realized a profit in 1973 by brought under control, damages not The tomato industry in Dania eventual­ selling the building to Dr. Gilbert Ber­ only had reached an estimated $25,000 ly evolved into a multimillion dollar ken for $68,000.(37) The current occu­ but most buildings in Dania's business business. pant of the building is the Hollywood district were badly blistered by the in­ Music Company. tense heat.(48) David Sokolow recalled On May 1, 1912, the Bank of Dania With a 1915 population of some 600 was established by Georgia's Witham that his department store suffered such people, Dania was Broward 's second heavy fire and water damage that he Banking chain, headquartered in largest municipality. (38) That same had to replace his merchandise.(49) Atlanta.(28) The first paid employee, year marked the opening of Louis I.T. Parker, earned sixty dollars a The only solution to the economic Brown's department store. The Dania slump triggered by the fire seemed to month.(29) The Bank of Dania stood Woman's Club, a civic group which had where the Pirates 'Inn is now. When the be the positive action programs form­ participated in community affairs since ulated by Hollywood founder Joseph Bank of Dania occupied its new 1917, was chartered in 1923. (39) In headquarters on the comer of Dania Wesley Young. On January 8, 1926, 1924, A.J. Ryan, Sr. opened his real by a vote of eighty-one to four, Beac~ Boulevard and Federal High­ estate firm, which is believed to be the way m 1923, Martin Frost converted Dania residents elected to be annexed oldest agency in continuous operation to the Hollywood corporation. (50) the old building into a real estate office. in Broward.(40) Dania suffered another setback when During the boom he sold it for Dania's population soared to 1,473 in the storm of September 18, 1926 $65,000.(30) 1925 while the Florida boom contin­ slammed into the community. After the ued;(41) and the famed Dania Beach A group of local businessmen pur­ hurricane, which left the town in Hotel, known as Florida's ''beauty chased the Witham interest in 1926 shambles, business in Dania suffered spot," was constructed by A.J. Ryan, reorganized the bank, and renamed i~ its worst slump in memory. To reverse " The Dania Bank. "(31) Original foun­ Sr. on Dania Beach Boulevard at an estimated cost of $250,000.(42) During the downtrend, to erase a debt on the ders included William S. Parker, I.T. new Methodist Church, and to re­ the. heyday of Prohibition, Dania's Parker, Martin Frost, and A.J. Ryan, establish confidence in the community, Whiskey Creek was the distribution Sr. The bank was responsible for finan­ Mrs. Anna Bloom, Mrs. John Gormley, point for bootleg liquor imported cing most of the farming operations Mr. and Mrs. Dixon M. Jordan, Mr. from Nassau.(43) in the city; in 1938, deposits nearly John Gregory and Mr. I. C. Williams For many Dania residents the 1925 reached $900,000. (32) The Dania Bank staged Dania's First Tomato Day Festi­ Christmas season was not altogether a remained on the comer of Dania Beach val on May 17, 1927, with the assist­ happy one. While Dania Hotel manager Boulevard and Federal Highway until it ance of local residents (51) Because moved in 1956 to its present location G.F. Tumer was working over the of Dania's global renown for growing at 255 East Dania Beach Boulevard.(33) gasoline stove, it burst into flames.(44) tomatoes, the day was named in honor Following the bank's relocation, the The blaze spread, rapidly consuming ofthe red, ripe, juicy fruit. It was from 1923landmark was vacant for ten years everything in its path. Mrs. C.N. Craw­ Dania that the first commercial car­ until the city purchased it in 1966 at ford, night operator for the Dania Tele­ loads of tomatoes were shipped to a cost of $17,500. (34) After plans by phone Exchange headquartered in the Philadelphia, New York, Boston, and the Chamber of Commerce, the library, nearby Douglas Building, was alerted Pittsburgh at a time when tomatoes and a number of civic clubs to use the by Mrs. Turner's screams. Mrs. Craw- were growing almost nowhere else. (52) -12- Dixon M. Jordan, who served as a wood could have promoted our city city manager. (62) Dania Vice Mayor, said of the first better. Dania never did grow much. Commodore A.H. Brook, who was Tomato Day Festival, ''Five thousand Hollywood is a whopper now. All Dania nicknamed Fort Lauderdale's " one people turned out to make Tomato Day was interested in was promoting toma­ man Chamber of Commerce,'' a success beyond all expectations; and toes."(59) pioneered the development of the the net proceeds were sufficient to re­ When Thompson opened his T and T nation's first moving electric sign, tire the church debt."(53) The success grocery store on Federal Highway in staged Broward's first big-game fish­ of the initial venture led to decades January 1926, the town was a part of ing contest, helped to establish Port of annual Tomato Day extravanganzas Hollywood. According to Thompson, Everglades, and effected the conver­ featuring band concerts, old-fashioned the frenzied Florida boom was at its sion of the old East Coast Canal into the barbecues, baseball games, fireworks, peak and ' 'everyone had quit farming Intracoastal Waterway.(63) In 1929 beauty pageants, boxing matches, to put on knickers and loud socks Brook opened "The Banyan," a tropi­ husband and wife calling contests, and sell real estate. After the Septem­ cal tea room nestled beneath branches greased pole climbs, and free-for-all ber 1926 storm smashed into the city, of a giant banyan tree located on tomato fights, which pitted teams of the boom busted, land values slumped, his Wyldwood estate on U.S. 1, oppo­ high school boys and girls against and everyone was back planting toma­ site the present day Fort Lauderdale­ one another in tomato throwing me­ toes. That was when residents decided Hollywood International Airport, once lees. Tomato Day was so popular to pull out of Hollywood and farm known as Hinkley's hammock.(64) that it was held annually; in 1956, the land without having to pay muni­ The first Broward County horticul­ when tomatoes became so scarce in cipal taxes on their property.' ' (60) turist and a Dania pioneer, George Dania, they had to be imported.(54) Following Dania's de-annexation Hinkley had imported trees and shrubs The year 1927 also marked the arri­ from Hollywood, Raymond Skinner from around the world and trans­ val of the Orange Blossom Special, served as Dania city manager until formed the hammock into a Florida the official train initiating the Seaboard November 1927 when he accepted showplace in the early years of this Air Line Railway. H.L. Brockwood, the post of city clerk.(61) Eventually, century.(65) This hammock was a Secretary of the Exchange Club, led the city manager position was popular picnic spot for early Dania the crowd in welcoming railroad presi­ abolished by the council; Dania oper­ settlers. News accounts relate that dent S. Davies Warfield. Governor ated under a mayor-council until 1946 Seminoles had encamped in the ham­ John Martin had spoken so long at when Luther Sparkman was named mock; in addition, Tequesta artifacts each of the stops that, by the time he reached Dania, his collar had wilted.(55) Following annexation to the Holly­ wood corporation, the Town of Dania was dissolved, necessitating the retire­ ment of Mayor H.T. Tubbs. Over the next seventeen months, Martin Frost, I.T. Parker, Frank Neville, and A.J. Ryan, Sr. rotated as Dania's representatives on the Hollywood com­ mission.(56) Dania's honeymoon with Hollywood, however, was brief. On Tuesday, June 14, 1927, Dania voters, irritated by high municipal taxes on croplands, piled up a sixty-three vote plurality to approve a referendum calling for ''the withdrawal of the territory known as the Dania section from the City of Hollywood.' ' (57) Although people turned out to vote in somewhat larger numbers than usual, predictions about fistfights at the polls proved to be ex­ aggerated. Paradoxically, this hotly contested election was one of the quiet­ est in Dania's history. Broward pioneer Paul Thompson, who attended a pre­ election meeting at the Dania commun­ ity house during which a discussion on Dania's secession from Hollywood ended in a brawl with several police­ men knocked about, was not especially pleased with the results.(58) Said For years, Dania's annual Tomato Day festival was Broward County's premier Thompson: "We would have been celebration. Above, the 1950 Tomato Queen Betty Vain is shown together with better off if Dania had remained a television star Milton Berle and her attendants Wanda Perdue and Terry part of Hollywood. I think Holly- Tretola. - 13- were discovered just south of the giant War II, the Navy transformed the With a 1950 population of 4,500, banyan tr.ee.(66) In 1917 Hinkley sold vicinity of the present day Fort Dania ranked third in the county be­ the hammock to Brook, who renamed Lauderdale-Hollywood International hind Fort Lauderdale and Hollywood. it Wyldwood. Resold in 1946, the pro­ Airport into a major training facility. (82) Although Dania was larger than perty subsequently housed an assort­ Part of the acreage utilized by the Hallandale, Deerfield Beach, Oakland ment of businesses, including a rest­ Navy was within Dania's corporate Park, and Wilton Manors, all four aurant and gift shop.(67) limits.(76) In 1940 Martin Frost erected cities outdistanced Dania by the year As sales dropped and profits plung­ the Katherine Hotel, now known as 1973.(83) Broward municipalities such ed, times became really tough in Dania the Pirates'Inn. This structure housed as Miramar, Pembroke Pines, Plan­ during the Depression. Paul Thomp­ Dania's first appliance and office tation, Lighthouse Point, and Lauder­ son, who was elected a Dania council­ supply store which had been opened dale Lakes, which did not exist in man in the 1930's, recalled that "our by Verlon Burrell at the close of 1950, also were more populous.(84) salary in those days was seven dollars a World Warll.(77) Even though it did not experience month. Our first order of business Just east of the Katherine Hotel, explosive growth, Dania was home to was to do away with it and work which was located on Dania Beach a number of fourth and fifth generation for nothing. Since I owned the first Boulevard at Northeast First Avenue, residents who were descendants of push-cutting mower in town, I was was Dania's unique open-air post original settlers.(85) "People like to put in charge of a municipal cleanup office. Demolished in 1957, the struc­ stay in Dania" was their explanation. campaign. To make Dania look decent, ture had no doors to the lobby (86) And, politically, Dania had not I got out there and cleared away areas. Dania's original post office, a been dull. In a span of twenty­ sage growing waist high and mowed a corrugated iron building, had opened two years, Dania had sixteen city four block area smack in the middle of on July 7, 1897. Jacob Paulsen was managers and eight police chiefs! (87) town. It was a mess. "(68) postmaster.(78) On AprillO, 1956, a tornado sudden­ In the midst of the Depression, Ver­ A feature of the Dania scene for ly appeared above Dania.(88) As the lon Burrell opened Dixie Cleaners at twenty years, the Denis-Roosevelt twister swept through the city, class­ 140 North Federal Highway. He re­ Research Foundation opened in 1940 rooms were battered and partial lated, ''I owned the first dry cleaning on the east side of Federal Highway damage was done to the roof of the plant on the premises in South at the Dania Cut-Off Canal. In addition old Dania Elementary School at 301 Broward. Back then, a pair of trousers to supplying apes for medical research, South Federal Highway.(89) Originally was dry cleaned for thirty-five cents; a this anthropoidic research station constructed in 1913 at the urging of suit of clothes for sixty-five cents; housed some 200 animals including Andrew Christian Frost, who had and a lady's dress for seventy-five chimpanzees, monkeys, squirrels, ot­ petitioned the Dade School Board to cents, pleats were ten cents extra. "(69) ters, bears, alligators, and elephants. establish a school district in Dania, the A November 1938 blaze, which re­ (79) facility has endured many additions, duced a local packing house to ashes Dania's fame as an antiques center repairs, patch jobs, and name changes. because ''volunteers didn't have began in 1945 when Mr. and Mrs. Wil­ (90) When high school subjects were enough hose to put out the flames," lard Ely opened Ely's Antique Shop. added to the curriculum, the school's triggered William P. Brook's decision (80) The 1948 construction of a water name became Dania High; and, while to enter the local political arena tank with a 200,000 gallon capacity serving as a regional high school for and run for a slot on the city council replaced a thirty-four year old land­ the southern portion of Broward in order to obtain allocations for up­ mark which had been erected in 1914. County, it was called South Broward dated fire fighting equipment. (70) (81) The Albert Marshall LaBree Jr. High.(91) After it was vacated, bids Named chief of the volunteer fire American Legion Post 304 was organ­ were taken by the school board in the department after it was reorganized in ized in 1949. summer of 1973 for its demolition. 1939, Brook declared that, when he took over "the department had one truck that wouldn't run, one paid man, and a hose that was full of holes."(71) Although Brook and his corps of dedicated volunteers "didn't ring door­ bells" for donations they managed, by ''bumming a dollar here and a dollar there" and sponsoring fish fries, ball games, and barbecues, to fortify the department until i~ rating was on par with those of other Broward cities and Dania financially became able to assume its operations.(72) The year 1938 saw Ted Thompson create a makeshift landing field in north Dania for his Waco biplane(73) and marked the organization of the Dania Chamber of Commerce.(74) In the early 1930's Dania exhibited the aspects of a small, unexciting town. Pic­ With annual dues of two dollars, tured above are one of the principal grocery stores and Dania's only bank. members were dubbed "boosters." Behind these edifices on the main street is the open field where hard fought (75) Following the outbreak of World baseball and football games were played. -14- Preservationists then banded together high winds, and numerous misfor­ Dania has a unique parcel of man­ in its defense. In addition to sparing tunes, Edge once cleared $73,000 on groves and wetlands to the east of the structure from the wrecker's ball, tomatoes grown on a 110-acre plot. He Southeast Fifth Avenue and Gulf­ they persuaded the school board to claimed, " I didn't retire. The salt water stream Road.(lOl) Because of its loca­ lease the building to the City of Dania retired me."(96) Most tomatoes in tion, size, and quality of vegetation, for one dollar per year. Already a Dania now come from supermarkets. these wetlands have received consider­ threatened historic resource, the old To cash in on tourism, the Dania able public attention. Dania Elementary School sustained J ai Alai Fronton was constructed on Averaging .9 feet above sea level, heavy fire damage on April 17, 1979. twenty acres of croplands which, at one Dania, the oldest incorporated munici­ (92) time, constituted part of the Harris pality in Broward County, was home in An earlier fire in 1956 had destroy­ T. Killie farm. The Dania Country Club 1976 too an estimated 12,750 people. ed the Dania community house; in replaced some forty-five acres of the (102) A former agricultural settlement 1957, the Dania open-air post office Elliott Chapman Edge farm.(97) with the tomato industry the mainstay was bulldozed in the name of progress The opening of Dania's privately of its economy, Dania is now known as and, during the 1960's, the Florida owned seaport, Port Laudania, occur­ the antiques center of the south.(103) East Coast Railway depot was blown red in 1965. A fourteen acre facility Featuring trinkets and treasures from 100 feet off its foundation by a with dockage for four ships, Port the past, the shops lining Dania's hurricane.(93) Surviving structures Laudania is situated west of the Intra­ main street, U.S. 1, have generated symbolic of yesterday's Dania include coastal Waterway, just north of the millions of dollars in business. Dania's Andrew Christian Frost's first house Dania Cut-Off Canal.(98) Designed for tourism image has been bolstered by at 132 Northwest First Avenue and freighters less than 250 feet in length, the Jai Alai Fronton which draws his second at 158 North Federal Port Laudania 's opening heralded the scores of visitors to the city every win­ Highway.(94) beginning of Dania's industrial growth. ter season. The infiltration of salt water, which In 1967, Dania passed the two million Since the days of the first town pushed back fresh water with the dollar mark in construction. marshal, Dania's police force had channeling of Port Everglades; the Wedged between Fort Lauderdale grown to thirty-seven paid officers. straightening, widening, and deepen­ and Hollywood, the City of Dania The Ajax chemical fire engine rig has ing of the Intracoastal Waterway; and covers approximately 3,100 acres or been replaced by a force of twenty-two the construction of additional drainage 4.85 square miles.(99) Situated in the paid firemen.(104) canals into the Everglades ruined the midst of a major traffic corridor, Dania The present city manager- muck on the east side of Federal is traversed by several major thorough­ commission form of government was Highway and spearheaded the gradual fares including U.S. 1, a major artery established in 1946, replacing the death of Dania's tomato crop.(95) on its north-south axis, and Dania mayor~uncil system.(105) In today's Pioneer Dania tomato farmer Elliott Beach Boulevard, a major artery on its Dania, the mayor is chosen from Chapman Edge came to Dania from his east-west axis.(lOO) In addition to a among five commissioners who are native North Carolina in 1908. number of parks and recreational facili­ elected to four year terms with Weathering insects, blight, floods, ties which include the Dania pier, elections held every two years.(106)

BIBIJOGRAPHY 21-lbid. 41-FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS, November29. 1964. ~FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS, 22-lbid. May 15, 1960. 62-lbid. November 2•. 1976. l·Oania Charter of Incorporation, 23-FORT LAUDERDM.E NEWS, 42-'' History'' by Foster Cather in 63-FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS, 68-lbid. November 30, 19Q.4. April29. 1960. DA.NlA STORY, Dania Chamber of December 24, 1978. 87-MIAMI HERALD, January 10, 2-lbid. 24-''D&nia No Longer Tops As Toma­ Commerce. 1977. p. 28. 64-"Dania's Banyan Tree.. . Roolhd 1968. 3-"DWa" by Joe Vecchione. an un­ to Empire." by Bill Adams, undated 43-FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS, in History," by Bill McGoun, undated 68-FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS. dated news clip. clip, FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS. June21, 1953. news dip, MIAMI HERALD. AprillO. 1956. 4-MIAMI NEWS, April, 1974. 25-" A Nanative Account Of The 44-FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS. ~FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS, 89-lbid. ~HOLLYWOOD SUN-TATTLER, Founding Of Dania,'' by Jeanette Jo~rost December 16, 1925. August9, 1929. ~FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS, Aprill3, 1976. Eby in DANIA'S 26TH ANNUAL 45-lbid. 66-"Dania's Banyan Ttee... Rooc.ed Aprill5, 1979. &-FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS, TOMATO DAY FESTIVAL, Auopiceo 46-lbid. ln History," by BiU McGoun, undated 91-lbid. March 27, 1977. of Dania Chamber of Commerce. 47-Ibid. news clip, MIAMI HERALD. 92-lbid. 7-lbid. Man:h 8. 1956, p. 22. 46-lbid. 67-FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS, 93--lnterview with Clarke Walden, 9-lbid., p . 19. 26-lbid, p . 22. 49-lnterview with Cussie and David November 24, 1976. May 10, 1979. 8-"Andrew Christian Frost: foundeT 27-"Dania No Longer Tops As Toma­ Sokolow. March 30, 1979. 68-FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS, 94-FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS, of Donia," by Cooper KiTk in to Empire," by Bill Adams, undated >0-FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS, August 26. 1979. December 27, 197•. BROWARD LEGACY, Volwn.. ill, clip,FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS. April II. 1976 69-FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS, ~HOLLYWOOD SUN-TATTLER, Numbe,. I and 2, Summer/Fall, 1979, 28-FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS, 51-" Why We Celebrate" adopted May 20, 1979. February 9, 1971. p. 17. Mayl5. 1960. from an article by O.M. Jordan in 7~FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS, 96-FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS. 10-"A Narrative Account of the 29-lnterview with Clarke WaJden, DANIA'S 26TH ANNUAL TOMATO December 24, I 978. November 9, 1968. Founding of Dania," by Jeannette May 10. 1979. DAY FESTIVAL. Auspices of Dania 71-Ibid. 97-"H.istory," by Foeter Cather in F>oot Eby in DANIA'S 26TH ANNUAL 30-FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS, Chamber of Comme rce, March 8, 1956, 72-lbid. DANIA STORY, Dania Chamber of TOMATO DAY FESTIVAL, Auopiceo Apri129, 1960. p .S. 73-''History,'' by Foster Cather in Commen:e, 1977, p. 30. of Dania Chamber of Commerce, 31-FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS, 52-FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS. DANIA STORY, Dania Chamber of 98-~fiAMI HERALD, April27. 1974. March 8, 1966, p. 22. Mayl5, 1960. NO\-·ember 26. 1978. Commerce. 1977, p. 27. 99- THE FUTURE LAND USE ll-lbid, p . 22. 32-·'History.·' by foster Cather in 53-Ibid. 74-lbid. PLAN ELEMENT OF THE COMPRE­ 12-"Denia Methodist Chun:h," in DANIA STORY, Dania Chamber of 54-FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS, 7~1bid. HENSIVE PLAN. DANIA, FLORIDA, 18TH ANNUAL TOMATO DAY FESI'l­ Commen:e, 1977, p . 28. November 2•. 1976. 76-lbid. MAY, 1979. PN!pared by the City V AL, Auapiceo of Donia Chamber of 33-HOLLYWOOD SUN-TATTLER, 5~ADDRESSES OF WELCOME 77-FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS, of Dania. p. 13. Commeroe, March 4, 1 ~. p. 8. November3, 1977. AND RESPONSES AT TWENTY-ONE May 20, 1979. 100-lbid., pages 8-9. 13-FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS, 34-FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS, CmES AND POINTS ON THE EAST 78-' 'Dania Post Office,'' in 101-lbid .. pages 11-12. May 15, 1960. July 23, 1971. AND WEST COASTS OF FLORIDA IN DANIA'S 26TH ANNUAL TOMATO 102-"lncidentally... " in DANIA 14--" A Narrative Account of the 35-HOLLYWOOD SUN-TATTLER, OPENING THE TWO SEABOARD AlR DAY FESTIVAL, Auspices of Dania STORY, Donia Chamber of Commerce, Founcting of Daoia," by Jeanette November 3, 1977. LINE RAILWAY FLORIDA EXTEN­ Chamber of Commerce, March 8, 1956, 1977, p. II. Fl.- Eby in DANIA'S 26TH ANNUAL 3&-MJAMI HERALD, December 22, SIONS. January 7 and 8, 1927, pageo p.31. 103-HOLLYWOOD SUN-TATTLER, TOMATO DAY FESTIVAL, Auopiceo 1957. 7~71. 79-HOLLYWOOD SUN-TATTLER, November 3, 1977. of Da.nia Chamber of Commerce, Mar­ 37-HOLLYWOOD SUN-TATTLER, 56-HISTORY OF HOLLYWOOD November 3, 1977. 104-lnterview with Charlene Moore, ch 8, 1966, p. 26. November3, 1977. (1920 TO 1950) by Virginia Elliott Ten­ 80-" History,'' by Foster Cather in Personnel Administrator, City of !~Ibid ., pageo 26 aod 32. 38-5011 SURVEY OF THE FORT Eick. Hollywood: City of Hollywood, DANIA STORY, Dania Chamber of Dania, October 26, 1979. • 16-FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS, LAUDERDALE AREA, FLORIDA, 1966, p . 247. Commerce, 1977, p . 30. 105-"History," by Foster Cather in November 29, 196-1. U.S. Department of Agriculture. July 57-FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS, 81-HOLLYWOOD SUN-TATTLER, DANIA STORY, Donia Chamber of 17-HOLLYWOOD SUN-TATTLER, 31, 1915, p . 7. June t•. 1927. November3, 1977. Commerce, 1977, p. 29. November 3, 1977. 39-HISTORY OF HOLLYWOOD 58-FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS, 8 1-HOLLYWOOD SUN-TATTLER, 106-lnterview with Charlene Moore, 18-lbid. (1920 TO 19501 by Virginia Elliott June 13. 1927. November 3, 1977. Personnel Administrator . City of 19-FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS, TenEiclt. HoUywood: City of HoUy­ 59-FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS, 82-MIAMI HERALD, February 27, Donia, October 26, 1979. AU&"" 4, 1955. wood, 1966, p. 246. Augu" 26, 1979. 1973. 2~FORT LAUDERDALE FREE 40-FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS, ~Ibid . 63-lbid. PRESS. J anuary 9, 1936. December 31, 1978. 61-FORT LAUDERDALE NEWS, 84-lbid. -15- Marines battle Seminole Indians in the Florida War ... 1835-1842. (National Archives)

By Cooper Kirk, County Historian Seminole War also gained a national and won a midshipman's commission reputation which contrasted with that because of his heroism in an 1838 Many veterans of the 1835-1842 Sec­ of the foregoing warriors. Navyman drowning incident in the East River. ond Seminole War in the southeast Edward Zane Carroll Judson, alias Ned Thus, at the age of fifteen, he attained Florida theatre later attained national BuntJine, established a sordid record an office where he could exercise his stature. Some officers came here short­ not calculated to win the admiration of bullying tactics over unfortunate en­ ly after graduation from West Point. Americans with high principles. A listed men. In keeping with his check­ Others had received their commissions wheeling-dealing entrepreneur who ered career, he soon lost his commis­ in the field. William Tecumseh Sher­ was addicted to tricky machinations in sion and resumed his place in the enlis­ man and Braxton Bragg, who fought order to attain his coveted goals, Jud­ ted ranks where he verbally castigated together at Fort Pierce, Florida, were son devoted much of his adult life to the the officer caste. later Civil War antagonists. George creation of sensational novels and Affairs along the Southeast Florida Henry Thomas, the "Rock of Chica­ articles. His writing was interspersed, coast in late 1838 eventually brought mauga," came directly to Fort Lauder­ however, with such episodes as public Judson to this area of armed conflict dale from the military academy. Con­ brawls, law suits, political shenani­ and had a decided effect upon his ca­ federate General Jubal A. Early, near­ gans, and confinement in prison. Are­ reer outside Florida. After mid-1838, captor of Washington, D.C., in 1864, cent commentator has summarized affairs in the southeast theatre experi­ joined Major General Thomas S. Jesup Judson's career as "a series of pica­ enced a relapse for American and for­ at Fort Jupiter in the winter of 1837- resque episodes rivalling those of the eign ships and crews. Led by Arpiaka, 1838 soon after he had become a first fictional characters of the day. " This who was known as Sam Jones, swarm­ lieutenant. Others, like Erasmus adventurer, who signed himself "alias, ing Seminoles raided ships from their Darwin Keyes who had been Fort Ned Buntline" was an originator of the headquarters on the New River. These Lauderdale's last commander in 1842, dime novel, an inexpensive work which ships had been cast upon the coastal attained general officer status during featured swashbuckling heroes and beaches by hurricanes, gales, and poor the Civil War even though their names violence. These were popular points of seamanship. His underlings freely have not become household words. emphasis during the later decades of roamed the coast from Jupiter Inlet Lieutenant-Colonel William Selby Har­ the nineteenth century. south to the Keys, pilfered endangered ney, who was not a West Point alum­ ships, and murdered castaW!lY crews nus, became the scourge of Seminoles Ruffian Judson, who lived from 1823 and passengers. During a gale on the in Florida and the Indians in the far to 1886, was born either in Philadelphia night of September 7, 1838, the French northwest during his rise as the most or Stamford, New York. The son of brig Courier de Tampico, bound from famous pre-Civil war Indian fighter. attorney Levi Carroll Judson, his Havana to Bordeaux, drove ashore near Many years after the tragic Seminole mother's maiden name is unknown. New River Inlet, North Latitude 26 de­ War, the feats of these Union and Con­ Much of Judson's life is obscure, some­ grees. Saying that "he killed only federate generals captured the imagin­ times due to his own fabrications and Americans," Jones spared the surviv­ ation of a nation enmeshed in the concealments. After running away to ors because they were Frenchmen. Due throes of a fratricidal conflict. sea when a small boy, he became an to the same gale, the brig Alma, bound Another alumnus of this phase of the apprentice in the United States Navy from Portland, Maine, to the West In- -16- dies, foundered and landed near the antE.T. Shubrick. evident in his five articles about the French brig. Descending upon these When Judson arrived in South Flor- Florida war. unsuspecting survivors, Jones' fifty ida the military situation looked dismal Yet, these articles do provide illum­ warriors massacred all but three; a to United States' military personnel. inating details and interpretations of Trained observers declared that, by Dutchman successfully had hidden events which enliven the dreary con­ mid-summer 1839, the majority of aboard the ship and two Americans had flict. Instead of presenting stoic charac­ Seminole warriors in Florida had mi­ ters, as generally portrayed by war escaped into the mangrove swamps grated to the Everglades region but near the inlet. Within days, a second commentators, Judson sought to evince still posed a danger to the military some pathos from his readers when he gale swept ashore the schooners Caro­ establishments along the coast and linaand Caldonianear the other beach­ depicted the participants with realistic Keys. Puncturing this assessment in actions and emotions. He led along ed vessels which then reeked with July 1839, a band of Indians massacred lines where imagination could soar. H American blood. Further south at Cae­ a small detachment of Colonel Har­ not achieving justice, he at least sought sar's Creek, the schooner Thraciansuf­ ney's troops stationed on the west coast to evoke empathy for the "uncivilized" fered the same tragic fate. In addition near the mouth of the Caloosahatchee Indians. to its regular cargo, this Boston-based River. A revengeful fire drove the ship carried the locomotive engine colonel to proclaim that he would hang Nowhere does the contrast between "Camden," destined for New Orleans. an Indian in retaliation for each of his his mildly lugubrious style and the Among the other fourteen ships men slain on the river. factual, concise recitation of events wrecked during the hurricane season During his three years of service given by army officers become more were the sloops Alabama, Dread, Cau­ against the Indians, Judson engaged in apparent than in a comparison between tion, and Export. Few of the crewmen many hazardous naval enterprises his account of Harney's second expedi­ and passengers and little of the cargoes along the east and west coasts. He also tion into the Everglades and the jour­ returned to white civilization. These joined forays into the Everglades which nalized entry by one of Harney's offi­ "Indian atrocities" by the Seminoles never before had been explored by cers. Judson's recitation is contained in hardened the hearts and strengthened whites. No military enterprise caught the two articles entitled "A Chase in the determination of Americans to rid the public's imagination more than the Everglades" and "The Capture and Florida of the Seminoles. Colonel Harney's second expedition Trial." An unsuspecting reader might United States Army and Navy offi­ into the Everglades, commencing New easily be forgiven if he mistook these cials reacted quickly to preserve the Year's Day 1841. Navymen and ma­ dissimilar narratives for two different integrity of the Southeast Florida coast. rines captained Harney's boats. News­ events. Although Judson's atrocious Florida army commander Brigadier papers and public officialS throughout digressions contribute to the apparent General Zachary Taylor ordered the the country hailed Harney's successful dissimilarity, they do allow him to in­ reactivation of three abandoned army foray into the Everglades as ample evi­ clude informative details which, other­ forts. In February 1839, Fort Pierce in dence that the Seminoles had been wise, might have been lost to posterity. the north and Fort Dallas in the south wrong when they boasted that the Contemporary readers then, however, on the Miami River were re-occupied. whites could not successfully pursue were unlikely to enjoy the opportunity Simultaneously, Captain William B. them into their watery lair. of comparing the two narratives. While Davidson and a company of the Third Judson left the navy in 1842 and, the prestigious Niles' National Register Artillery selected a site on the beach after a trip to the Yellowstone region published the somber journal, Judson opposite New River Sound as the loca­ for furs, settled in Cincinnati. Here, in printed his reminiscences in his rene­ tion of a new Fort Lauderdale. General 1844, he and Lucious A. Hines founded gade magazine. Taylor believed that, from these three and edited the Western Literary Jour­ Judson and Hines published the Cin­ locations, military personnel could nal and Monthly Magazine. Judson cinnati-based magazine from Novem­ make the beaches safe for distressed then hatched the grandiose scheme to ber 1844 to April 1845, when financial vessels. Moreover, the soldiers could write a vast number of articles based difficulties arose. Judson then skipped march westward into the Everglades upon his Seminole War experiences. town and left Hines with the debts. and rid that sector of Seminoles. The finances of his periodical, how­ Thereafter, his career assumed a more The Navy also took immediate action ever, permitted him to publish only five bizarre character. in Washington. There, Secretary of the articles about the war. He entitled Judson was next heard of in Eddy­ Navy James K. Paulding directed Navy these South Florida articles: "A Cruise ville, Kentucky, where he won a $600 Lieutenant John T. McLaughlin to or­ in Lake Okeechobee," "A Chase in the bounty for single-handedly capturing ganize the Florida Squadron. Its pur­ Everglades," "The Capture and Trial," two murderers. He moved to Nashville pose was to protect mercantile interests and "Indian Key, Its Rise, Progress, where he founded Ned Buntline's Own. along the Southeast Florida coast. The and Destruction." An untitled fifth ar­ This enterprise ended sensationally in lieutenant also might assist the army if ticle concerned a two days' march over 1845 when he fatally dueled his mis­ the latter chose to operate along the summer-dried hunting grounds. Much tress' husband. While Judson stood inland waterways. Lieutenant of what Judson wrote can be substanti­ trial, the deceased's brother fired at McLaughlin took emergency measures ated from other sources, but he did add him. Judson jumped through the win­ to assemble crews and ships in the new material. dow but was recaptured. That night he North and then sailed for South Flor­ Those Seminole War experiences was taken out by a mob and actually ida; he established headquarters first deeply affected the impressionable lynched. But, he was rescued when the at Tea Table Key and later at Indian Judson. Some of his early literary ex­ rope was cut before his life expired. Key. He named his largest schooners amples were derived from his wartime Consequently, the jury refused to indict Wave, Flirt and Ostego. Included service. A romantic, Judson's lurid him. He was free. among the crewmen was the erstwhile stories explored the sub-conscious and Judson then returned to New York hero Judson, whom McLaughlin as­ teemed with cliches, awful quotations, where he revived Ned Buntline's Own, signed to the Ostego. Thus, Judson incorrect punctuation, irritating digres­ an organ of a rowdy, jingoistic, nativis­ served the duration of the war aboard sions, and downright fabrications. tic patriotism. There he also became a the schooner commanded by Lieuten- These characteristics are particularly partisan of actor Edwin Forrest and, on -17- In Buntline's (Judson's) drama, "Scouts of the Prairie," Ned Buntline, Wil­ liam F. ("Buffalo Bill") Cody, and Jack Omohundro ("Texas Jack"). (Library of Congress)

May 10, 1849, the night of the Astor literary output still left him time to deed, he was frequently his own hero in Place Riot, led the mob that showered travel extensively, agitate for political a minimum of 400 works. the theatre with cobblestones. He was causes, associate with the rich, and Literary critics Stanley J. Kunitz and sentenced to a year's imprisonment on arouse trouble and excitement wher­ Howard Haycraft pungently and caus­ Blackwell's Island and fined $250 for ever he went. tically summarized Judson's career in exciting and fomenting the riot. Judson enlisted in the Civil War in this assessment. Upon release from prison, Judson 1862 and compiled a thoroughly dis­ He was the real father of the dime was paraded and feted by various pa­ creditable record which culminated in novel. Cheap, boisterous, rowdy, triotic organizations. In the spring of 1864 in a dishonorable discharge. He met William Frederick Cody in 1869 at chauvinistic, an incorrigible liar 1854, however, a St. Louis grand jury and a generally bad egg, he never­ indicted him for instigating an election Fort McPherson, Kansas, conferred on him the name "Buffalo Bill," and initi­ theless prided hiself on his piety riot in which several people were killed, (he wrote hymns among other two houses were burned, and other ated a series of dime novels which fea­ property was destroyed. But, he tured Cody as the hero. H~ and J .B. verses), and lectured indefatigably in favor of temperance. His writing escaped by jumping bail. The Know­ Omohundro persuaded Cody to go on Nothing party owed much to his politi­ the stage. Erelong, they parted as ene­ was all trash and he himself a ras­ cal tactics. Although personal popular­ mies over the division of the profits. cal of the first order, but he has his place in the history of American ity made his name a household word, Judson returned to Stamford, New York, where he died of a heart attack in eccentrics and the development of Judson's prison record prevented him American fiction. from running for office. 1886. He had married four times. Ever since 1846 he constantly had Although two wives had died and one It is noteworthy that his Seminole been writing cheap, sensational fiction. had divorced him, the last survived him War experiences in Southeast Florida By 1850 he had published such drivel with two children. contributed much to shape him into the as The Mysteries and Miseries of New With his demise a loud blustering man who touched millions of lives York and Ned Buntline's Life Yam. ceased. His life reads like one of his through a multitude of antics and activ­ Amazingly enough, his tremendous own serials and sensational novels. In­ ities. -18- Second Expedition Of Col. Harney In The Everglades Reprinted from NILES NATIONAL REGISTER, VOL. LX, April3, 1841, pp. 71-72 The following letter, says the Charleston COURIER, from a gentleman in Florida, to his friends in this city, dated Tampa Bay, March 10, comprises a journal of Col. Harney's latest expedition to the Everglades, in pursuit of Sam Jones, and is furnished by an officer, who accompanied Col. Harney. It will show the great enterprise and en· durance that are requisite on the part of those who exert themselves in the protracted and extraordinary contest with the savages of Florida. ON THE 1ST OF JANUARY, 1841, Lieut. Col. W .S. Har· ney started a second time for the Everglades with a force of 20 dragoons, 70 of 3rd artillery, with four officers of the line, and 140 mariners and sailors under the command of Capt. McLaughlin and the officers of the Flirt, Wave and Otsego, U. States schooners. With the exception of four or five large canoes, carrying from six to ten men each, the force was distributed in small canoes made expressly for the pur· pose, and carrying five men each. The orders of the day Lieutenant-Colonel WilliamS. Harney in Aprill838 became directed that each man should be provided with twenty days' the third commander of the little military outpost known as rations, sixty rounds of ball cartridge, and the neces· Fort Lauderdale. The above picture shows him in the uniform sary blankets, etc. The most perfect silence to be pre· of a major-general in the United States Army, a rank he served by every one; orders to be communicated by signal attained in the Civil War. (Library of Congress). whistles, with which the officers were supplied: the boats when moving in single me, open order, to be kept twenty paces apart, and every man ready to drop his paddle and through barriers of tall saw grass. After several hours' hard seize his musket at a moment's notice. - The dragoons paddling, we came in sight of Chitto's island, and the signal were armed with Colt's repeating rifle, and, being under the was passed "to close up." Approaching cautiously, we took command of Col. H., formed a well tried band of experienced our positions around the island, and lay in anxious expec· Indian fighters. tation of the signal, "move up and effect a landing." An ad· Half an hour after sunset, and during a shower of rain, vance guard having been sent in to reconnoitre, after some the command left Fort Dallas, which is situated in the bay at time reported that the enemy had left the island, and, in a the mouth of the Indian river, eight miles above Key tone of bitter disappointment, the colonel gave the word, Biscayne; Col. H. in advance, with Mico as guide, and negro "move up and land, the Indians have escaped." John as interpreter, the army next, and the navy in the rear. JANUARY 3rd. Chitto - Tustenuggee's or Snake After passing up the bay seven miles, w~ entered the Warrior's island is a most beautiful spot, containing from 18 mouth of Little river, a tortuous and extremely rapid out· to 20 acres; the soil is extremely rich and about two let from the Everglades, and struggled against the current feet deep, lying on rotten lime stone. -The centre is clear· until after midnight, when we reached our first resting ed, but the circumference is well protected by immense live place, the site of an old plantation, and landed. oak and wild fig tree, and an almost impenetrable thick· JANUARY 2nd. The guide says that by not starting et of mangroves. There are two towns, two dancing from here until towards evening, we will reach grounds and one council lodge, on this island; with the ex· Chitto-tustenuggee's island, an hour or two before day· ception of the dancing ground and small patch of fine Cuba break, tomorrow; we therefore remained as we were, as tobacco, the whole clearing is overrun with pumpkin, squash much as possible concealed in the grass and thickets, until and melon vines, with occasionally Lima beans in great four p.m. when we again started, but in reversed order, luxuriance and of a most excellent quality. The Indians have the colonel in advance, the navy next, and the army in been gone at least two weeks, and have left behind them all the rear. It may be as well to mention here, that useless articles, such as war dance masks, supernumerary throughout the expedition the army and navy alternated in baskets, kettles, fishing spears, bows, etc. At 11 a.m. the order of precedence, the colonel, however, always at the head Colonel dispatched a small force to reconnoitre Tusconee 's of the column. island, which lies about three miles west of us; they After passing up a few miles of very swift rapids, we en· returned at 4 p.m. and reported recent signs of a mao, wo· tered the Everglades at sunset, and skirting along a project· man and child. - The only trophies they had obtained were ing elbow of the Pine barren for two miles, lay con· some ears of green corn and a few stalks ofsugar cane. cealed behind the point of it until it was quite dark. We then JANUARY 4TII. Started at 9 a.m. for Sam Jones' island. moved forward swiftly and noiselessly, at one time follow· He is said to have 70 warriors with him and to hold a strong ing the course of serpentine channels, opening out occa· position; the only fear, however, entertained either by the sionally into beautiful lagoons, at another forcing our way officers or men, is that he too may have seen fit to -19- desert his island and betake himself to the Big Cypress. Af- guide to Captain McLaughlin's boat, and directed him to ter paddling until 3 p.m. we reached a small cluster of move in pursuit- the light boats of the artillery to accom- trees, from the tops of which the guide said that Sam's pany the captain and his command. camp was visible; he was accordingly sent up aloft to make an The colonel, with the large canoes, returned to the observation, and soon pronounced the place deserted. island, and sent up a look-out, who reported the In- This information altered the Colonel's plans, and instead dians as out of sight, but our boats still going at speed, of waiting until night should conceal his movements, he ad- and rapidly nearing a small island about three miles off. Col. vanced immediately towards the island; at the same time, H. becoming impatient and feeling confident that he could however, not omitting the precaution of sending off flank- find a passage across without any guide, started for the other ing parties, and an advance guard to reconnoitre. Be- island, and reached it just as some of the advance boats fore sunset we had all landed, and were enjoying our bacon flushed a party consisting of four warriors, five squaws and and buiscuit in the midst of an Indian village. two children; each warrior had a separate canoe, containing JANUARY 5m. Sam Jones' possessions consist of a his family and worldly possessions. They left the boats to the group of several islands differing in size, and separated by care of the women, and took to the grass water, loading and narrow sluices. Upon the largest of these, which is about one firing as they ran; three of the warriors were soon hundred and fifty yards in width and half a mile in shot, three squaws and one child taken; the other child was length, are. three villages and dancing grounds; the general drowned by its mother to prevent its cries leading to her features the same as those of Chitto's island, but the soil san- detection. Night coming on, one warrior and two squaws, fa- dy. There are no villages on the other islands, but vored by darkness, escaped. Only one soldier was slightly they have been cleared in the centre and planted with pump- wounded in this affair. kins, melons and com, which were of course destroyed. Our JANUARY 8th. Early this morning, Col. H. sent out a greatest annoyance at this place, was the immense num- small force to follow the trail of the other warrior and en- ber of fleas, cockroaches and musquetoes; every thing you deavor, if possible, to take him alive, as he had learnt from touched, even the ground, was alive with the former, which squaws that it was Chia, one of the best guides in the with the mosquitoes, attacked us, while the roaches whole territory. After following the trail five miles, they luxuriated on our provisions. The whole group of islands, came up with a squaw (Chia's wife) and took her; a (called Army and Navy group), is nearly a mile and a half in few yards further 'on, upon hearing a rustling in the grass, length, and, upon careful examination, presented no recent several of the men leaped into the water, and one of the Indian signs. mariners, in the act of springing from the boat, was shot JANUARY 6th. At 8 a.m. passed over three miles to by the Indian in the side, who then ran a few paces re- the Pine Keys, and secured their whole extent; returned loading his rifle, and as Sergeant Searles, of 3d ar- at night, hungry and fatigued, to Sam Jones' camp. tillery, rushed toward him, he turned and fired at only five JANUARY 7th. Started early for the prophet's island, paces, wounding the sergeant mortally, who, however, which, according to Mico., is "two suns" from here. At 11 kept on towards him; Chia then struck at him with his a.m. stopped at a small island and destroyed a flourishing rifle- poor Searles sank for an instant under the blow, but crop of young com. At 3 p.m. came to another island of small blinded and fainting as he was from the loss of blood, he extent and uncleared; upon sending negro John up a tree to quickly rallied for a last effort, and threw himself upon look out, he reported two Indians in canoes, two miles off, the Indian's neck crying, "I have him;" Chia then coming toward us. Orders were immediately given by Col drew his knife and was about to stab his captor, when a H. to lie close, as they were evidently coming to the island. soldier arrested his murderous hand. In a few minutes, John reported that they had seen us and After securing the captive, the sergeant was lifted into a were going back. The Colonel gave chase, but fmding there canoe and brought back to the island, where his wounds were was not water enough for his large canoe, transferred the examined and dressed by the medical officer. The ball was -20- found to have passed through the right arm, entered the proved an insurmountable obstacle, he returned at sumbwn, right side, breaking a rib, opening the right lung, and pass­ and gave orders to be prepared to move homeward tomorrow. ing into the liver. The marine was not much hurt, the ball JANUARY 14th. Passing down the New River to its having only made a flesh wound. mouth, we coasted along the shore, until we reached the JANUARY 9th. We were compelled to sleep in our Haul-over and encamped for the night. boats, and, in addition to this discomfort, it rained JANUARY 15th. At early dawn the canoes were hauled hard, with a cold south wind, all last night. Chia says, over from the beach into the bay; and passing down to it, we that Sam Jones, immediately on hearin~ of Col. Harney's reached Fort Dallas at noon. first expedition, had sent over to the Seminoles for pow­ The Pay-hai-o-kee, grasswater or Everglades, comprises der and lead, and said that he would go into the Big Cy­ a large portion of southern Florida, lying south of the press, where, if he was pursued, he would fight to death. twenty-seventh degree of latitude, and separated from the Chia and his party were going to join him, and he Atlantic and Gulph of Mexico, by a pine barren vary­ (with a gallows in perspective, should he prove false), prom­ ing in width from 5 to 20 or more miles. There are a number ises to guide us faithfully to him. In consequence of this in· of outlets on the eastern or Atlantic coast, while on the formation, we returned to Sam Jones' island, which we western or gulph coast there is only one, now named, after reached at noon. its first navigator, Harney river. JANUARY lOth. The description given by Chia of The appearance presented upon entering the everglades Sam Jones' probable position, is such as would intimidate al· is that of an immense prairie, stretching out farther than most any one except Col. H. from attempting to dislodge the eye can reach, covered by a thick saw grass rising 6 feet him. At 8 a.m. we started for the head waters of New above the surface of the water, which it conceals, the monot· River, which we reached at sundown, and passed down the ony varied by numerous snakelike channels, and verdant stream to Fort Lauderdale, where we arrived at midnight. islands scattered few and far between; the average depth of JANUARY 11th. Having disposed of our wounded men water over the whole extent, is from 2 to 4 feet. The chan­ and the female prisoners, we left Lauderdale at sundown and nels differ in width from ten to twenty feet, and in ascended the New River, entering the Everglades by the some places we had to force our boats through the waving right hand branch, an hour before sunrise. sawgrass. The larger islands are about two feet above the JANUARY 12th. After allowing the men two hours'rest, usual water level, though no doubt, in very wet seasons oc­ we moved on to a group of keys, lying between the ex­ casionally overflowed. The water was clear and wholesome, panse of the Everglades and the edge of the Big Cypress. and even where no current was perceptible, there was no It was here that Chia had expected to find the main body of appearance of stagnation. the enemy; but upon examination of the signs, he pro· The results of this expedition, although apparently not nounced that they had gone on to the O-kee-cho-bee. With very brilliant, have only been surpassed in usefulness, by a heart swelling with disappointment, Col. Harney found his those of the first everglade expedition, undertaken and schemes thwarted by the cowardice of the Indians, who had prosecuted with such untiring energy and eminent success fled panic-stricken upon hearing of Cha-kai-kee's fate, and by Col. Harney. The knowledge acquired of the nature of the deserted their hitherto inaccessible retreats. country, the localities of the islands, and the strength of the At noon the navy left us, taking with them Mico and positions, occupied by two of the most formidable negro John as guides across the Everglades, in the direction chiefs, is of itself ample reward for the suffering and taken by the first expedition. After a hasty dinner, we bore privations necessarily encountered during a movement in away for Lauderdale, and aided by the ~wift current of the open boats, with no tents, a limited supply of blankets New River, reached our destination at 8 p.m. and provisions, exposed to the sun by day, and the dew by JANUARY 13th. Col. Harney, this morning, started with night, to the drenching rain and biting blast, but twenty men, to search for a reported passage from the New rarely allowed the luxury of a fire, and living upon fare River, into the Hillsborough inlet, the low stat.e of the water which requires a strong appetite to relish. Sketches Of The Florida War By E .Z.C. Judson -Reprinted ered with flower-spangled verdure, pedition, it was determined to make the from Western Library Journal and teeming with luscious, air-perfuming most of the last holiday which we ex­ Monthly Magazine, Vol. I (November fruit. On such a night, when the sky pected to celebrate for a long time, the 1844-Aprill845) was smiling at itself in the brook-mirror return of which many of us were never Number II - "A Chase in the Ever­ below it, we hauled up our boats at Fort destined to see, therefore both Navy glades." Dallas, in the mouth of the river Miami, and Army joined like brethren, as we I love a regular Florida winter. I do en route for the Everglades. were, in contributing to the general en­ not mean one of your northern winter We were about to make an extensive joyment. evenings, only rendered clear through scout through this unknown section, in Lively jokes and cheerful songs the intense frigidity of the stiffened co-operation with a portion of the U.S. passed around with brimming cups of atmosphere, ornamented with glitter­ 3d Artillery, under command of Lieut. punch; and 'many a dear loved distant ing, rainbow-hued tricks, pendant like Col. Harney of the U.S. 2d Dragoons, friend,' was remembered in the full jewel-buds from leafless branches, and assisted by Lts. Boyd, Field, Ket­ bumper, with tremulous lips and glis­ brightened by the dazzling reflection of chum and others. Our own party con­ tening eyes, by lips that were too soon star and moonlight upon snow; but I sisted of some seventy seamen, under stiff and cold, filling to the brim the cup allude to one where the bright-faced the chief command of Lt. Comdt. of bitterness for those who had been moon and dancing stars look down on McLaughlin. remembered in the warm-hearted forests clothed in the rich beauty of As it was "New Year's Day," and toast. perennial greenness, on an earth cov- were about to start on a dangerous ex­ But no thoughts of sadness rested -21- with us then, no brow amongst us then the "grassy water," without meeting fingers instinctively playing with the wore the cloud of gloomy forebodings; anything worthy of particular note, hilt of the ready sword, as if itching to gaiety and youthful pleasure rode in except occasional signs of the cunning feel its well-balanced weight. undisputed sway over our buoyant and ever watchful enemy, and had In some, the eye would darken with hearts, as rides the flower's down the apparently reached the centre of the anxiety, the pale forehead inferring sun-lit air. Comrades! Friends! Bro­ glade, as neither the mainland or any busy thoughts of distant friends, who thers! Ye who sat with me around that islands were visible around us; not a might dearly rue the approaching hour festive board, with warm, generous, speck in the green horizon to relieve of danger; or memories of loved ones ambitious hearts, as true as the blue the tiresome sameness of the prospect, whom the coming struggle might leave steel by your sides, where! oh where save one tall palmetto tree, which stood alone in the world's chilliness, without are you now? Scattered to the four alone, like a solitary watchtower in the a protector; while some cherished gage comers of the earth! One cruises along desert, rearing its leaf crowned head de amour would be pressed to heart, Italia's vine encircled shores, another and branchless trunk far above the perhaps to rise and fall upon its last paces the deck of the frigate Raritan, as level of the glades. throbbings. she glides over the ever-calm bosom of Towards this point we had been pro­ For myself, I know that a braided the Pacific; another, and he a brother, gressing ever since daylight, for old tress of dark silken hair, which had is exposed to the burning sun, feverish Mico, our copper colored guide, (he been clasped around my wrist by a fairy air, and sickening climate of the Afri­ had turned traitor to his tribe) being hand, caused me to grasp my sword can coast; while many of them have quite bewildered and perplexed among with double strength; for I knew that if sailed for that dread port the thousand labyrinthian turnings and I fell the beloved giver would mourn me "Whence none ever return to tell the windings of the channel, desired to look as a Spanish maid should, not with tale of 'wonders seen beyond oblivion's from its elevated position to the main weak childish tears, but silently and murky veil." channel, which he had lost in the twi­ truly. I knew that she would feel a sad, One in particular met with a sad fate, light of the preceding eveiiing. Half an but lofty pride, in the thought that he, but a few months since, on one of our hour's energetic labor brought us up to who had won her heart's purest trea­ Western steamboats; -and now sleeps the "look-out," and the van boat, with sure, a sacred first love, had died the sleep which knows no waking, in a the guide in it, proceeded to the foot of sword in hand, his face to the foe, her grave upon the banks of the Ohio. the tree, the rest laying on their oars at name coupled with his country's on his But I tum from this sad picture to a short distance from the spot. dying lips, cherishing a hope that those brighter colors. Having received and Mico commenced ascending the tree, who were doomed on earth to part, properly welcomed the infantile year, and, while engaged in silent admiration would soon meet, to be joined in an and decently interred the "old one" of his ell-like maneuvers, as he was eternal union, in a world beneath a heap of empty bottles, we wrapping the limbs around the smooth closed our revel with the sailor's toast, trunk of the tree, I observed his quick "Where pleasure's rose immortal "sweethearts and wives," after which, eye suddenly turned towards some blows, And sin and sorrow are no adding nine hearty, soul-echoing evidently startling object, and the next more." cheers, we sprang into our boats, and instant he dropped from the tree as if When a Spanish maiden weeps, her long before day dawned had reached shot through the heart. tears are the over-runnings of the foun­ the falls of the Miami, over which, after One moment sufficed for him to tain of joy; when she mourns, that sundry capsizings among the leathern­ communicate some information to Lt. fountain is dry, and her tearless grief is stocked, gaiter-footed, lubberly sol­ MeL., and then speedily and noiseless­ deep, lasting, and all-absorbing. Like diers, we managed to pass. ly the van boat approached the main the tree or flower which is deprived of Soon after the sun came up from his party. The word was given to ~prepare nurturing moisture, she fades, withers visit to the nether world, we entered for action," while it was whispered and dies. into the "Pai-ha-okee," or "grasswa­ from boat to boat that we were close to All having been made ready for ter," as it is termed by the Indians; the Red Man's wake. action, headway was given to our which is an immense sea or level field The order, "prepare for action," boats. The impatient crews sent them of saw grass, covered with fresh water, although its obedience consists in but a flying through the waters with a speed varying from eighteen inches to four close examination of ammunition; shift­ which soon removed all uncertainty as feet in depth, rising from innumerable ing old flints for new ones, loosening to the whereabouts of the "Esta springs in all parts of the vast extent. It the sword in its scabbord, and laying Chattes." Making a sudden tum extends from latitude 27 degrees N. aside all cumbrous clothing, ever around a projecting point, we dashed down as far as latitude 25 degrees-20' brings a kind of indescribable nervous into a broad lagoon, upon the surface of to the southward, varying from thirty to sensation over one. Being fond of which, at about half a mile distance lay seventy miles in breadth. It receives watching the varied workings of human five Indian canoes, the occupants of the name "Everglades," from being nature, I have often observed its effect. which were engaged in fishing. A yell covered with an undying growth of Upon the old war-worn, veteran tar, from them echoed by three hearty ever-green grass, which, rising about it would cause only an additional leaf cheers from us announced the mutual six feet above the surface of the water, of tobacco to the quid-distended cheek, discovery, and instantly commenced and waving in the breeze, gives it at an up-hitch of the trousers, and a de­ the most exciting race which I have times the semblance of a vast green termined quiet and gravity of manner, ever witnessed. The one party, urged ocean. Its monotonous appearance is speaking as plain as looks can, that on by fear of death or capture, the other relieved here and there by groups of "He holds not parley with unmanly by ambition, a burning desire to islands, which, in some measure serve fears, Where duty bids, his course he avenge their fallen comrades, and to do as land marks to the navigator, as he steers." their part towards ending a war which pushes his way through the meander­ The youngster's more excitable na­ had not only been dreadfully harassing ing channels which render the strange ture would beam out in the quick ftash to us, but fatal to nearly one-third of lake passable. of the ambitious eye, the slightly trem­ our little band. Out of the few officers For several days we passed through ulous lip, the throbbing breast and who at first volunteered for this ardu- -22- ous and hazardous service, Pepin, of Georgia, Waddell, of Pennsylvania, and Smith and Slacum, of Virginia, had already been culled by the cold hand of death. The rifle ball, combined fell dis­ ease, had left but the skeleton of the picked crew which had entered the ter­ ritory, hazarding their lives to protect those of unprincipled and avaricious conduct, or, to say the least, culpable imprudence, that had brought the war scourge upon themselves. But we'll return to "the chase." Our boats, having been under full headway when we first discovered the enemy, had for a moment gained rapidly upon them, but after narrowing the distance between us down to about six hundred yards, the speed of both was equal to the force of the enemy, the body of a child three or four years seemed to be nearly equal; some of our 'barring' the children and women - old, with a thong of buckskin wound so slowest boats dropping in the rear; the latter of which sometimes fight like tightly around its little neck, as to have theirs all keeping in a body together. 'devils an hungered.' produced strangulation, and its head Mile after mile was rapidly passed Both parties now became perfectly forced under the roots of a bunch of over, without any perceptible gain on silent, for, though the tug was still kept grass, where it had probably been either side; and, though our hardy up, it was evident that the struggle placed by some of the fugitives to pre­ crews strained every muscle, till the could not be delayed long. vent it from giving an alarm. In about bending oars made the lightboats Seeing our rapid gain upon them, the fifteen minutes, we overtook a squaw, tremble from stem to stem, still the Indians endeavored to gain the banks who bore on her back a young infant. rippling waters danced in the bright of the lagoon, where, in the tall grass, As soon as she saw that escape was im­ sunlight between us and the flying foe, their mode of fighting would have possible, she calmly turned around, as if they were mocking our efforts. We given them an advantage over us; but and, without the least sign of emotion were so near - and our way so rapid - in anticipation of this maneuver, we visible on her dark countenance, that the tiny air bubbles which arose had spread our boats at distances awaited our approach, placing her hand from their plunging paddles had scarce across the stream, and the sudden de­ on her bosom as a sign of submission. time to burst, ere we were on them. For viation of the enemy from their line, not Finding her to be the only one on this once in the world, I could say that my only deadened their headway, but trail, we returned towards the boats. way over the waters was not trackless threw them right athwart the bows of On our back trail we passed by the body for we had a path of whirling foam our inner boat. of the dead child, and I now learned before us - we left a wake like drifting They at once perceived that their from the broken language of the wo­ snow behind us. chance was gone, and that they must man, that the infant was hers, and that Occasionally, the thrilling war whoop fight the 'big water men' (as they in­ to prevent its cries from leading us in would rise upon the heated air, loud variably termed us of the ocean) upon our pursuit, she had killed it with her above the splash of paddles and the their own element. own hands. This information was im­ pantings of tired men, reminding us of In an instant paddles were dropped, parted to me, by her, without a tear, or scenes where the same unearthly music their rifles raised with the quickness of sigh, as if it had been but a common­ had pealed forth the death-knells of thought, and as rising from my seat, I place thing. She evinced the same brave and beloved companions. turned to order my cockswain to run my stoical want of feeling, when, on reach­ At the same time, we began to per­ boat alongside, his heart's warm blood ing the canoes, she discovered her cieve the superiority of our long oars, spouted up in my face, while a burning husband lying dead in the grass at the which from having a fulcrum in the sensation along my side, told me how margin. of the lagoon. She even smiled row-locks of the boat, enabled our men narrowly I had escaped losing the when I made her a present of my to work with more ease than the Indian number of my mess, for as I rose, the blanket, to cover the wants of the dress could with their short paddles, thus, in ball grazed my ribs, bearing death's which she had tom from her limbs in a long race giving us a decided advan­ message to him, who, but an instant her flight. tage. We had gained sufficiently upon before, was sheltered by my person. When we had again with the bugle­ them to observe and distinguish their Their aim, though quickly taken, was call gathered our forces together, we force. From each canoe, the crimson fatal to three of our men, but now, as made an inspection. On examination, trimmed scalplocks of three warriors we closed within half pistol shot, our we found that only three of our crew waved tauntingly on the breeze, while tum commenced, and our muskets, was killed, though several others were the heads of several women and chil­ loaded with heavy buckshot, soon badly injured. Fourteen of the warriors dren peered up from over the low wales silenced them. had been killed, and four women and of the canoes. Only three of our fleetest The boats having drifted into the three children were captured. boats had been able to keep in com­ shore during the heat of the contest, We found that one warrior and his pany, the rest being far in the rear. In enabled the few survivors to leap into squaw had escaped search. Hastily our one Lieut. McLaughlin, in another the glades, where we as quickly pur­ forces were scattered through the· Lieut. Drayton, and in the third - sued. swamp, yet our pursuit was made in somebody else. Besides the officers in I struck off on a trail with one of my vain, and night closed over our unsuc­ each boat, there were four men, which boat's crew, and had not run over one cessful efforts. We tried to set the (the arithmetical reader will perceive) hundred yards before I stumbled over grass on fire, but it would not bum, -23- therefore we were obliged to huddle into our boats, and there await the approach of day, for there was no land within sight, where we might pitch our camp. We were prevented from sleeping all night by the howling of several dogs, who had lost their masters in that day's fight, and were now scattered about the swamps. We learned from the captive women that the warrior who had made his escape was "Chico," a celebrated sub­ chief, guide and warrior, who had or­ iginally been connected with the "Spanish fishing-Indians." Before the war, he had been quite a favorite among the settlers and wreckers on the southern coast; being of an enquiring and ingenious mind, and in return for his instructions in the manufacture of various little articles, which were use­ ful in his way of life, he used to fish and hunt for them. He was noted for his activity in all manly exercises; his skill in the use of the bow, rifle and harpoon, and for a fund of good humor and kindness sel­ from view, Chico was seen to rise in his feverish hands in the purple stream of dom found in one of his tribe. That tottering canoe and look back, seeming life. Long cherished, heart-brooded which we know of his history is suffi­ half determined to return, but finally vengeance was satisfied, the stain of ciently romantic and interesting to he disappeared in the direction of the insult blotted out by the blood of the merit recording. For the benefit of our­ Everglades. insulter. self and the accommodation of our Long before the war, Walton had At the crack of Chico's rifle, the boat­ readers, we will proceed to relate it. cultivated a small garden on Key men had pushed from the shore, but The history will commence with the Largo, an island situated about five before they gained one hundred yards date of my own knowledge of his ca­ miles' from the anchorage of the vessel, from the beach, fifteen or twenty reer. for the purpose of supplying himself painted and yelling warriors rushed About four months before the com­ and crew with vegetables. Although from the wooded covert, and one man mencement of Seminole hostilities, often warned by those who well knew was instantly killed by their fire, and Chico went on board the government the undying hatred of an injured the other being severely wounded. lightship, which is stationed as a bea­ savage, he still persisted in visiting this However, as the wind was blowing off con on Carysfort's reef, near Cape Flor­ spot occasionally in order to gather the from the island, the boat soon drifted ida. This vessel was commanded by fruit of his labor. Nearly half a year had beyond the reach of their guns, and the Captain Walton, who resided on board elapsed after the commencement of wounded man escaped, and regained with his family. hostilities, and no signs of the enemy his vessel. Three days afterwards, a During Chico's stay on board, he, in having been seen on Key Largo, the strong party of wreckers collected to­ some manner, offended Captain Wal­ most timorous began to feel secure, gether, armed themselves, and landed ton, who, in the momentary heat of thinking that the distance between the to rescue the remains of poor Walton. passion, snatched a rope's end from islands and the mainland deterred the They found him scalped, his body hor­ the deck, and struck him. In an instant, Indians from making a descent upon ribly mutilated, and they conveyed the the Indian's coal-black eyes reddened them. corpse to the island of Matecumbe with anger - his keen knife glittered in One morning about this period, where it was interred. The grief of the the air, and for a second remained Walton left the lightship with two men widowed mother of three young, help­ poised over the heart of the insulter, to row his boats, and proceeded to the less, fatherless children, cannot be por­ but when death seemed to rest trem­ garden landing. trayed by a pen so cold as mine. blingly on its point, he turned, sprang When he had reached the shore, From this time on, Chico's name was into his canoe, and pushed from the leaving the two men to take care of the the watchword of terror along the side of the ship, throwing back one boat, he walked up to the garden, coast. His yell was the first to awaken look expressive of deadly hate upon the which was two or three hundred yards the dreaming settler, who startled from astonished commander, and screamed from the landing place. He had barely his slumbers but to be thrust into the in rage, "Me see you more, Walton." stepped within the enclosure, when jaws of open-mouthed death, by the He knew then and there was not the Chico sprang out from behind a large terrible chief's knife. time nor place to fill the measure of mohogany tree, and in a tone of bitter Reader, we hope that your curiosity vengeance; but the insult was engraven mockery, cried, "Me Chico! Walton; is not excited, for we are limited to the on his memory in characters, that blood know Chico now, eh?" this part of the page, and having ar­ and blood only could efface. An Indian Walton was totally unarmed; he rived at our limits, must defer the re­ never forgets either kindness or in­ turned to fly, but a ball from Chico's mainder of our yarn until next number. juries. never-failing rifle checked his flight. A happy "New Year" to you all! Several times, ere he had passed He fell and black revenge laved her E.Z.C.J. -24- water, turning and winding in every direction which Chico's accomplished Sketches Of The Florida War cunning had devised to throw us off the track. Old Mico, however, was a per­ Number Ill - "The Capture and Trial" of Chittee Emathla, a chief second only fect bloodhound, when once upon the After the murder of Captain Walton, to Arpiaka in power. Chico had gained scent, and no craft or device could Chico lingered around the coast, per­ the love of Lula, the favorite wife of throw him from it. mitting no opportunity of death and Chittee Emathla, and she, yielding to In a few hours the trail began to robbery to pass him unaccepted. His his winning powers, was now eloping freshen, when the old guide, whose was the hand which plied the blazing with him. He had not only to fear the courage was over-ballasted by pru­ brand of destruction throughout the anger of Chittee, but had also to dread dence, stowed himself down in the bow Southern borders of the "Flower-land," the laws of his tribe, for the offense of the boat, from whence he would oc­ sending up the incense of reeking which he had committed is severely casionally peer out like a half sheltered agony, to his favorite goddess, re­ punished by the Seminole penal code. duck in a hailstorm. The grass now venge. Wherever his moccasin crushed Thus, by mere chance was this ad­ remained bent in the muddy water, and the flowers, wherever his steps were venturous savage thrown almost into everything b~tokened_ our nearness to directed, victims fell like the tender our hands, but by his skill and cunning the fugitives. We knew that Chico buds under his foot. His course was was once more in a temporary safety. would not become a willing prisoner, marked by the lurid glare and the On finding that the Indian and squaw and expected that he would resist even beacon-smoke on consuming dwell­ that had escaped were Chico and his to death; still his services as a guide to ings. His was the demon-spirit which stolen bride, we determined never to the haunts of his tribe, were of such planned and executed the destruction give up the chase till it was rewarded importance to us, that the strictest of Indian Key, where, in two hours by success. Impatiently we counted the orders were given to take him alive. sixty buildings were reduced to ashes, weary hours of the long night, awaiting We moved on rapidly, and were one entire family - father, mother and the dawn of morning light, which would closing up towards a small island, with children - destroyed, the head of an­ enable us to follow the trail. When, at but two or three trees upon it, where other (Dr. Perrine) burned, a prisoner last, rosy cheeked young day came out we expected to find the fugitives, when in his own house, within hearing of his of his shadowy nest, we renewed our directly under the bow of the foremost own family; and a poor boy, the son of a search for signs which might serve to boat, a sudden scream was heard, and dependent widow, scalded to death in a trace the fugitives. the woman rose from the grass before cistern, heated by the flames which Old Mico was placed in one of the us. Her scream was echoed by the twined above and around it. lightest boats, and commenced taking a sharp crack of a rifle, and the bow oars­ Chico also led on the murderous broad circle around the late scene of man of the front boat reeled from his band at "Harney's massacre," on the action, cautiously examining every seat. At the same instant, Chico arose banks of Carlosahatchee, where eight­ bent blade of grass and down-bowed from the grass, about two hundred een poor fellows were slain in their flower. He had nearly finished the yards from us, and commenced loading sleep - a sleep rendered sound by the round, when his unusual taciturnity his rifle hastily, yet as coolly as if he gentle rustlings of a truce-flag, whose was broken by a single expression, were about to practice at a target. In a broad, pure folds waved like guardian "Hielal" as with extended hand he second, every man sprang from the angel's wings in the night-stillness. pointed out a few half bent blades of boats and rushed through grass, mud Once the friend, but now the deadliest grass, which to me were as unintellig­ and water towards him; one gallant fel­ foe of the whites, his knowledge of ible as baby-talk, though to him as low (Sergeant Searles, of Company G, their habits, customs and haunts en­ plain as a well-beaten road. We were 3d regt. Artillery) in the advance of the abled him to easily plan and rapidly on the trail of the fugitives, and rest. Chico had finished loading his execute the most bold and unexpected pursued it as fast as our men could rifle, when Searle had arrived within attacks. The turtler in his little sloop or push through the heavy grass and ten or fifteen steps of him, and delib- schooner, the wrecker in his heavy lighter, or the wrecked mariner cast helplessly on the strand, all were sacri­ ficed upon his altar. Chico was a man of medium size, rather slim, but agile as the mountain cat. The only strong peculiarity about his appearance was his eye, which was very large, and as black as condensed essence of night-gloom. I have seen that eye in a fit of anger turn as green as an emerald, while the pupils seemed to be two little self-burning-up, fire spitting sparks. Yet it could be softened when reflected into woman's clear wells of love. Chico was a man of gal­ lantry in more than one sense of the word. Amongst his tribe he was known to be a special favorite with the fair sex. Even now, when by accident we had crossed his trail, he was flying with a scanty band of firm adherents, from the powerful party and revengeful pursuit erately dropping on one knee, he raised the deadly weapon to his flashing eye. Searle instinctively turned his side towards the Indian, in order to expose as little as possible to the aim, and the bullet struck his right arm, shattering the bone, and, passing through his lungs, came out on the opposite side, being of course fatal. At this moment, ten or twelve men were rushing upon ., Chico, who, flourishing his unloaded . -:-... ;y;:-:~ ~ rifle in the air, aimed a blow at the head of the foremost, which was warded off by the hand, as it descended with a force which crushed the fingers and small bones of the member. By this time he was completely surrounded, and seized by as many as could get hold of him; but even now, with a strength almost Herculean, he shook himself free and attempted to spring from them, but finding escape impossible, he pealed out his death song in defi­ ance. His black eye gleamed with su­ pernatural light as the triumphant song of past deeds broke clear and loud from his lips. Picking up poor Searle and securing the woman, we now proceeded to the \ island, which we very appropriately named Mud Island. We here held a council, for the purpose of adopting the best measures for coercing him into our For years the Seminole Chico defied the United States Army during the Florida wishes as a guide. When asked to show War. Above artist Regina Tomlinson has sketched Chico at the end of an Army us the whereabouts of the· enemy, he rope as "He gave a lightening look of scorn and defiance ... " answered only by a look of scornful hatred. In order to try the effect of fear upon him, a rope was now brought, and ing feelings were heaving his breast power, tell me not of crowned despots, one end being fastened around his with convulsive sorrow throbs, then tell me not of the power of gold or lofty neck, the other was passed over the 'woman's influence,' that potent heart station -WOMAN, fair, fragile, gen­ limb of a tree. Once more he was asked dissolver, prevailed. He spoke but a tle woman, is the only despotto whom if he would serve as a guide; and then single word to her; she sunk calmly to man yields implicit obedience on earth. for the first time he opened his lips in the earth as an infant sinks in slumber. Those whose war-genius hath shaken answer; but it was only to ask that the Then he turned to our commander, and nations into a dense mass of confusion, death of a warrior might be given him, in broken English thus addressed him: have themselves yielded to the mag­ that he might be shot instead of being "Me Chico - big Indian - great netic influence of soft beauty's charms, hung like a dog. His request was warrior! Me kill ten white men, five and when their hands grasped the sternly refused, and he was told for the white squaws! Me no fraid to die! Me sceptre of the world, they have dropped last time to choose beteen the life of a like squaw - squaw like Chico! You no it to seize a wanton curl as it played traitor or the death of infamy. hurt squaw - give squaw plenty enticingly upon the breeze. But all this He gave a lightening look of scorn beads, give Chico plenty blankets, is digressing from our yam. and de:fiance - the rope was tighten­ plenty whiskey, Chico go! Me show When Chico spoke and agreed to ed, his face grew dark with suffocation; white warrior plenty Esta Chattee! Me guide us, there was a strange and al­ his whole form quivered; and then for you no more kill." most devilish glare in his eye, which his the first time in my life I saw feeling The bargain was made. The fearless assumed calmness could not entirely exhibited in an Indian female. The wo­ warrior, he who had stood calmly veil. This we all noted, and he was man, who till now had remained silent gazing upon death in its most hateful placed under a strict guard, who had and motionless, with her tress-veiled aspect, he whom the terror of that dark­ orders to shoot him down if he made head bowed in her lap, sprang to her clouded moment could not move, gave the slightest attempt to escape. We feet, rushed towards him, and with her way to the all-powerful influence of shall have occasion to speak of his guid­ arms thrown around him, the big crys­ pleading woman, and consented to pre­ ance hereafter, in some of our yams. tal tears raining fro~ her imploring serve a life for her which he would Thus with the loss of one valuable eyes, uttered a few rapid, low, sweet­ gladly have sacrificed to perserve hon­ life, and the crippling of another, toned words in her own language, with or. Thus it ever is, thus has it ever (Smith, the bow oarsman, now a pen­ a manner that would have melted been, since Eve banqueted on forbid­ sioned inmate of the Naval Asylum at hearts of adamant, much more the den fruit. A woman can make man a Philadelphia) was captured the terror 'hearts of oaks,' present at the scene. being worthy of the highest seat in hea­ of the southern coast, the arch-demon The Indian strove for a moment, every ven, she can cause him to degrade the of the Seminole tribe. muscle of his face working as if conflict- lowest pit in hell. Tell me not of regal We cannot close this number without -26- again alluding to the gallant and ill­ out care or trouble. careful and scientific men, has been fated Searle, who preferred death to Oranges were once an article of prof­ found to be about 70 deg., never ex­ disobeying orders, and rather chose to itable export from the Territory, and, ceeding 85 or 90, and seldom below 60. give his life than to commit a breach of judging present appearances, they On the island of Key West, in Lat. 24 discipline. When rushing towards soon will be again. I have known a sin­ deg., and a fraction, the temperature Chico, with his loaded musket he could gle grove of less than two acres pro­ for six successive years, was never easily have slain the Indian while he duce $2000 per year to its owner. To known to rise above 90 degrees. was reloading his rifle, but the 'orders' prove how peculiarly the climate is By the tables of mortality kept by were to harm not, but to capture - adapted to this fruit, I need only refer surgeons during the continuance of the they were obeyed. The death of Searle to the fact that on the southern border war, we find that the number of natural was characteristic of his life; his last of Lake Worth, there is a grove of wild, deaths in that climate fell far short of words were, "I've done my duty!"They uncultivated oranges, covering at least. the rate experienced on our northern should be engraven on imperishable stations; and this difference seems the sixty acres of land surface; that on the adamant and placed above his head, more astonishing, when we recollect yet the poor fellow lies in a shallow estate of Donna Antonia P. Marin, situ­ the forced marches, hardships and sand-pit. On the banks·of New River, ated on the banks of the river St. John's deprivations suffered by the troops in near Fort Lauderdale, he was buried, near Volusia, there is a grove, also wild the territory, comparing them with the and not even an unchiselled stone is containing forty acres, and in num­ sheltered and barracked comforts of there to point his resting place. erous parts of the territory, both more northern quarters. Here for In the despatches to 'headquarters,' oranges and lemons are growing plenti­ months, they were on continual 'field his name may have been casually men­ ful, though uncultivated. duty,' often without tents, exposed to tioned, but he was a non-commissioned The soil of the southern portion of rain and sun, night dews and morning officer, he had no friends in power, the territory is similar to that of Cuba, fogs, some on poor rations, again with and why should his deeds or his virtues and produces, under a similar course of no provisions except the wild game of be mentioned? His case reminds the cultivation and seeding, as good tobac­ the forest, and yet they enjoyed better writer of this article of a circumstance co as is grown in that island. health than upon our northern Atlantic which came under his own immediate Cotton, particularly the black-seed or coast. We refer our readers to a work observation. A subordinate officer sea island species, yields finely. Rice, published some short time since, upon came in contact with a large body of the in the time of the British possession, medical statistics, written by Surgeon enemy, on the western coast of Florida, was largely exported, as was also indi­ General Lawson of the Army. It will during the latter part of the war, and go, with some madder.. But in its bear us out fully in our positions taken with a small band succeeded, after a woods, Florida is far from valueless. In in regard to the general salubrity of a gallant action, in beating them off. His material for shipbuilding, she gives us Florida climate. superior reached the spot shortly after pine and cedar for spars, decking, etc., The work to which we allude is care­ the battle was over, and immediately live oak of the best quality for timbers, fully compiled from the monthly re­ afterwards wrote a flaming despatch to besides lignumvitae, mahogany and ports of all the surgeons of the army, headquarters, giving the account as if hickory. Her southern Keys offer fine given from their several stations in all he himself had been an active partici­ sites for forts to protect our southern parts of the Union. pant in the combat, of course gaining borders in time of war, and also contain Another proof of the mildness of the all the credit, while the real actors fine harbors in which our squadrons climate is that it is a favorite resort for passed unknown and unpraised. Per­ may refit while employed in protecting consumptive and asthmatic invalids. sonal conduct, be it ever so deserving our Gulf commerce. The territory is The city of St. Augustine is ever filled seems to have passed unnoticed during also fast filling up with settlers. Mr. with such visitants, few of whom come the Florida campaigns, except in in­ Benton's 'armed occupation bill,' al­ too late for restoration to health. stances where 'rank' served to lift it up though it was passed too late to do any The unusual longevity of its inhabi­ where praise might cast sunlight upon good in its orginal intention, has been tants is another proof of a similar it. We shall hereafter take occasion to the means of settling the lower and strengthfulness. The writer is acquain­ particularise upon this point. finer parts of the country. ted with a lady of Spanish parentage, It sometimes appears strange to me, As to the health of country, we of who was born in St. Augustine in the that so little should be known in the the North are also often misinformed. I year 1761 - and still resides there, in northern part of the Union, of the cir­ believe that there is no healthier cli­ full possession of vigor and all her fac­ cumstances attending the war, and of mate in the world than that of East ulties. She reads easily without the use the causes which gave rise to it. In fact, Florida. There is a half-daily succession of glasses, and (she is Catholic) walks I have found that few, very few, proper­ of seabreezes, which, sweeping entire­ every morning reguarly near half a mile ly understand the character of the soil, ly across the peninsula, keep up a pure to mass, at the hour of sunrise. Her climate, or productions of the territory. atmosphere, and prevent swamp memory is so perfect in regard to by­ Florida is now, or soon destined to be, a miasmas, or fever contagious from set­ gone times, that we consider her the very important portion of our Confed­ tling. The mean of the temperature, best history of Florida extant. eracy, both in a commercial and gen­ from yearly observations, made by E.Z.C.J. eral view. Her soil is peculiarly adapted to the growth and profitable production Bibliognphy Malone , Dumas (editor). Dictionary of Record Group 94: AdjutanKZeneral, of sugar, cotton, coffee, Manilla hemp, The Army and Navy Chronicle, 1838- Aroerican Biography, Vol. V. New Letters Received, 1822-1860. NA. tobacco, oranges, lemons, pine-apples, 1842. York. 1932-1933. Record Group 125: Secretary of Navy, Charleston Courier, 1838-1839. The National Cyclopaedia of American Letters Received from Captains indigo, rice, arrow-root, castor-beans, Judson, E.Z.C. Magdalena, the Out­ Biography, Vol. x.m. New York. 1906 1838-1842. NA. grapes, cocoa-nuts, citrons, guava, cut; or, The MillioDaire'a Daughter: Niles ' Notional Register, 1838-1842. St. Augustine Florida Herald, 1838-, A Story of Life in the Empire City Record Group 24: Records of the De­ 1842. figs, pomegrannates, dates, peaches, New York. 118661. partment of Navy, Bureau of Naviga­ St. Augustine News , 1838-1842. melons, plums, bananas, plaintains Kunitz, Stanley J . and Haycraft, How­ tion: Logs of U .S.S. Wave, Flirt and Western Literuy Journal and Monthly ard (e

I,Ivy Julia Cromartie Stranahan, was born in White Springs, Florida. My mother, also a native Floridian, was Sarah Elizabeth Driver who married Augustus Whitfield Crom­ artie, a native of North Carolina. For a number of years he taught school in central Florida. As the southern tier of the state began to develop, however, my father kept pushing further south by horse and wagon. Thus, we eventually homesteaded some fifteen miles from Ar­ cadia on the Peace River near Owens, a small settlement of orange growers and cattle own­ ers. Hammock or prairie, those lowlands were beautiful in the spring when covered with tiger lilies, blue flags, and white and blue violets.

By the time we were living near sweet potatoes, and corn. I never saw found in the woods. Our spring tonic, Owens, I had three brothers and one a white potato until I was an older Sasparilla, was made from the root sister. One brother and I were old teenager. We bought our flour by the bark of a small tree called "Queen's enough to attend school. Although we barrel and the grits and com meal in Delight." To treat injuries, mother had to walk five miles each way, we did fifty pound sacks. The only soft drink made poultices from the thick, juicy, not mind it because everyone else we children had was called "soda Indian collard leaves which grew in the walked. water, " made from the juice of large lowlands. After holding the leaves by My father built a palmetto thatched rough lemons and water, sweetened the fire to wilt them, the poultice could hut, similar to those in which the In­ with cane syrup. Into this we stirred a be made for the wound. dians live today. To cover our earthen pinch of baking soda to see it fizz. Five Father crossed from the west coast floor, we brought buckets of white sand miles away lived our closest neigh­ to the east. The railroad had been from the Peace River.And, it was on bors: the Garners, Leniers, and Bol­ extended to Juno, where we lived for this white sand that we learned to shaws. Whenever we visited these fam­ several years. Prior to 1895, Juno was write. We had plenty of fruit such ilies we always "spent the day" be­ the county seat of Dade County. By as oranges, guavas, lemons, grape­ cause we would have to walk there, too. 1899 we were living in Lemon City fruit, wild berries, and palm cabbage. Fortunately, we were a healthy where I finished my education in the We grew such vegetables as eggplant, group of children; no doctors were Lemon City School. My teacher tutored tomatoes, collards, cabbage, turnips, available. Our medicines were herbs me through the summer in prepara- -28- . tion for the state teachers' examina­ ten, a wild cat, rabbit or gopher would dians for sleeping quarters. The inter­ tion. My assignment was to teach in the scramble into the bushes to hide while ior was sealed with Dade County pine, first school in Fort Lauderdale. we passed. If we were out at night, which is as durable as mahogany. To­ Early one October morning I boarded we always carried a lantern because all day it still has its original finish, one the Florida East Coast northbound animals are afraid of fire. We did not coat of varnish. train. At the Fort Lauderdale station I need to spend much of our school Soon after I arrived in Fort Lau­ was greeted by Mr. Ed King, a local time studying wild life or physical derdale I met the postmaster, Frank school trustee. He led the way to the education because a three mile hike Stranahan. Frank also operated the fer­ railroad dock on New River where his each day gave us ample opportunity ry across New River, opposite Pioneer "pop-boat" was moored. A pop-boat for nature study and exercise. In ad­ House. If I thought I had mail, I was a small craft, much like a row boat, dition to many singing games, we play­ would ring the "ferry bell" and some­ with a gasoline engine installed in the ed others such as dare base, town one would come in a rowboat or ca­ center. With no mufflers on these ball, and hide and seek. noe to take me to the post office. If I did boats, the rapid loud explosions were Frank Stranahan established his have mail but did not call for it, Mr. the only sounds to break the silence on trading post, Stranahan Camp, in 1893. Stranahan would come across in his New River in those early days. Mr. The Seminoles from the Everglades pop boat with his lantern to deliver it; King steered down the river and up came to the trading post and brought this set everyone to wondering. Al­ Tarpon Creek to his home, which their skins and furs, as well as their though I was indeed grateful, I could stood on a high ridge where Ever­ families and most of their worldly not understand all the excitement over green Cemetery is today. Greeted by possessions. Camping for nearly two such a simple kindness. He also would Mrs. King, a charming hostess, I was weeks, the surrounding area would be come to the school at dismissal time to live with the King family during the blanketed by Indians, chickens, pigs, and, together, we would go fresh water ensuing months. and dogs. Not hostile, but shy of fishing up New River. This ride was Because the new school building was strangers, the Seminoles far outnum­ beautiful; ferns and lilies grew all along not completed, there were a few days of bered the whites. the banks. The "crystal clear" water waiting. The Dade County School Mr. Stranahan acquired the Over­ was like an aquarium; we could see Board, which included Broward and land Mail Route contract shortly af­ trout and snapper or bream hidden un­ Palm Beach Counties, shipped enough ter the Barefoot Mailman stopped car­ der the ferns and lilies. In order to pine to erect a small school room, about rying the mail along the beach. The catch these fish we had to be very 20 by 30 feet, as well as a dozen route stretched from Lantana to the quiet; often we would catch enough fish used chairs and desks for the students Peacock Inn, which was just south of for supper. and me. Built in the wild woods of Cocoanut Grove. Stranahan Camp also The gathering place for parties and scrub palmetto and pines, this school was used as a convenient, evening picnics was the House of Refuge, now was located at what is today South An­ stop-over for the weary traveler jour­ in the vicinity of the public picnic drews A venue and Southwest Fifth neying between these points. grounds on the beach. The From­ Street, the former site of the County In 1901 Stranahan Camp, with its bergers, who were the keepers of Health Department. Construction of paper houses and tents, was replaced the House of Refuge, always welcomed the building was undertaken by volun­ by Pioneer House, which is my home us. Mr. Fromberger was an old sea­ teer labor. After the trustees installed today. The broad porches upstairs man, fat, jolly and entertaining. It took a pitcher pump for water and "grubbed and downstairs were used by the In- every man, woman and child to create out" palmetto and grass from around the building, we were ready for the opening day of school. Only six families lived here in 1899. They were the Kings, Marshalls, Pow­ ers, Joyces, Bellamys, and Fromber­ gers. Parents brought their children by boat on that first day and waited for their children to be assigned to a grade from the first through the eighth. The first nine pupils were Frank, Mack, Sally and Lula Marshall; Bird, Louise, and Wallace King; and Minnie and Ed­ gar Bellamy. Later they were joined by Leone Bass, who lived with the Joyces, and Cora, Vasco and William Powers. Although parents took all the students home again, school in Fort Lauder­ dale had had its beginning. Patrons soon cleared pathways from their homes to the school. The path from the King home to the school was about a mile and a half. Every morning or afternoon we would see several coveys of quail, wild turkeys or Mrs. Stranahan and friend in 1960 examine a handbook in the presence of a doves strutting down our sand trail. Of- model of the first schoolhouse built in Broward County. -29- a crowd at these parties and everyone trips. I always would be prepared with ance with Indian custom, received did his best to contribute toward a com­ new pictures and objects of interest no recognition. With as much diplo­ plete and happy gathering. to them. All this time, I looked upon macy as I could muster, I explained Mr. and Mrs. King, Mr. Stran­ them with great pity and regret be­ my mission. I described the beautiful ahan, and I occasionally would ride the cause they abhored our government, tract of land that would be theirs and train to West Palm Beach. Once there, rejected our education, and scorned explained that this land they were now we would go over to Palm Beach Christianity. These topics just were on was someone else's and that "some­ where we had a lot of fun riding not mentioned because of the hostile day he come and Indian have to move. around the streets in two-seater "wheel feelings of their parents. I deeply The reservation is Indian's land. Com­ chairs" which were pedaled by giant regretted the negative attitudes that missioner tells me to tell you if you "negroes." Tired and happy after a full were being instilled in these beautiful will move on reservation and make day of city life, we would return by boys and girls. camp, you will never have to move train that evening. Thus, I was compelled to devise again." I told them to talk it over All too soon, the school term was some plan by which I could acquaint and advised them that I would wait over and I returned to my home in them with our civilization without of­ for them outside in my car if they Lemon City. Happily, I had promised fending their parents. My task was wanted to see their new land. After Mr. Stranahan that we would be mar­ simplified by their love of pictures and some twenty minutes or more I saw ried in August 1900. Our wedding music and their curiosity to learn about Annie Tommie, her grey-haired bach­ trip would take us to Asheville, North new objects. I taught them all the kin­ elor brother Willie Jumper, and her Carolina, Niagara Falls, and then out to dergarten songs as well as the pronun­ grandson Jack Huff and his sister visit his former home in Ohio and rily ciation and meaning of the many words Pocahontas Muff coming toward my car grandparents in North Carolina. After beneath the colored pictures. They of­ for the nine mile journey. Fearful that I our wedding trip I would make my ten would ask me to pronounce their might disturb the atmosphere and home, forever, in Fort Lauderdale. words. When I could not, they would change their minds, I opened the car Reared in a large family amidst be convulsed with laughter at my in­ door as gently as possible. They accompanying social events, my young epitude. These incidents detracted closed the door behind them and we married life might have been a little from the seriousness of the occasion drove off at full speed. We never did lonely had it not been for the Indians and they did not realize what was speak even one word until we reached who came to my husband's trading transpiring. When the Presbyterians the Dania Reservation, which President post. Always a friend, Mr. Stran­ later learned of their interest, they William McKinley had established in ahan was very popular with them be­ furnished me with richly colored Bible 1898. Upon our arrival I declared, cause of his fair dealings. As his young pictures for beginners. Encouraging "here we are on the reservation; throw bride, I was closely observed. The the children to spell and pronounce out the grub hoes and axes and let's go Seminoles, particularly the children, the titles on the Bible cards was one to work! Mr. Spencer says he will pay were curious to know what my attitude way to initiate their education and in­ you a dollar and a half a day to clear would be toward them. I would notice troduction to Christianity. They learned the reservation and make camp." The two or three groups of children stand­ the alphabet and isolated words with­ men showed their pleasure by picking ing some distance away, waiting for a out creating any prejudices. Early in up the tools and going to work. I pro­ glimpse of me. Anxious to know how my work I was convinced that they mised that I would return for them they were going to accept me, I would needed to replace the Great Spirit with at five o'clock. After making a general go out on the porch, smile, and invite Christ. survey of the location, Annie and Poca­ them to come into the house. At first, In 1924, Fort Lauderdale was "set­ hontas climbed back into the car and they were shy and reserved and would tling up" fast. The day came when I we returned to the Fort Lauderdale respond only with a faint smile. Not received a letter from Dean Spencer, camp. knowing a word of Seminole, I won­ Special Indian Commissioner of Fort When I drove back to the reserva­ dered how I would ever gain their Myers, Florida. Relaying the news that tion in the afternoon, I found the men friendship. What I did not know was the Indians would have to move to the tired but seemingly happy. I told them that these children knew many reservation because they were only to get as many extra men as pos­ words of English, enough to under­ squatters and that sanitary conditions sible and advised them that I would stand what I was saying. would have to be enforced, Spencer pick them up in the morning. This pro­ In a short time they accepted my closed his letter by inquiring, "would I cedure continued until Friday. I wired invitation to enter the house. What fun help the government get the Indians on the Indian Commissioner at Fort Myers and excitement they had exploring the the reservation?" My husband believed that the Indians were on the reser­ different rooms, trying on my hats and that "that is your job, (the Indians) vation but the transportation problem clothes, and admiring themselves in will never go on the reservation" be­ was becoming too burdensome for me. the mirror. Viewing themselves in the cause they had always refused to re­ After Mr. Spencer's Saturday arrival, white man's clothes, these stoic, silent main on any federal land. he went to Miami and ordered the little visitors would break out in spon­ After a weekend of considerable lumber required to begin the struc­ taneous laughter. I soon realized that, deliberation and prayer, I loaded my tures on the new site. By the end of the although they had been taught to be car with grub hoes, axes, and picks and year 1924, several homes, an admin­ shy of the white man, they were like early that Tuesday morning in June istration building, and a school had other children. My motto was "pa­ 1924, I drove to their camp near the been completed. An American flag tience and perseverence." As time Seminole Postal Annex on the west was mounted on a tall pole in front went by, the children became friendly edge of our city. I entered their en­ of the school. Content and happy, and gathered in great numbers at my closure, found them in conference, the Indians now were established on door upon their return from hunting greeted them cheerfully and, in accord- the reservation. -30- Within ten years, however, the government broke its promise and pre­ pared to transfer the Indians to the Brighton Reservation west of Lake Okeechobee. The Dania Reservation was to be abolished and the local school moved to Brighton. Arrangements were made for those children who would consent to leave home to attend the Cherokee Indian School in North Carolina. More and more children re­ sented going so far from home and ap­ pealed to their white friends that they be allowed to attend the white schools. Due to the effective work of a local group which cooperated with the Seminoles, this transfer order was re­ voked. Successful arrangements were made for their entry into the public schools in Dania; thus, the educa­ tion of the Seminole youth was assured. Now there are many Indian high school and college students who are preparing to take their places in our state and nation. Commissioner Glen L. Emmons of the Bureau of Indian Af­ STRANAHAN TRADING POST and camp located on New River. Although the fairs, whose administration closed in exact date on which the picture was taken is not known, it is one of the earliest 1960, has said publicly that the Flor­ views of the permanent camp and was taken prior to the addition of porches on ida Seminole Indians demonstrate the the trading post building. Research indicates that "in the late fall of 1895, a finest attitude of any Indians in the severe hurricane blew away the 'paper camp houses' which necessitated the United States. building of more permanent structures." Probable date of the photograph is A Seminole youth of this gener­ between 1895-1897. (Fort Lauderdale Historical Society). ation knows that "we are not trying to make a white man of him, that we several ministers to the church. Creek to Seminole desires and VISIOn and want him to be proud of his race and Baptist minister Willie King and his to the local architect who planned remain an Indian." We want him to wife gave the most faithful and lasting them. be capable of enjoying the conven­ assistance. Thus, the Protestant Chris­ The Seminoles hold valuable graz­ iences and advantages of the present tian faith was advanced in our three­ ing lands in the Everglades and the civilization and still be able to protect point program among the Indians in Big Cypress and Brighton Reserva­ himself from the evils which civiliza­ the areas of education, friendliness to­ tions. Cattle-raising began there in the tion brings. ward our government, and religion. early thirties when the Indians In the beginning we who took an Seminole church leaders today are were loaned 500 heads of cattle by the interest in them instructed the children Baptist Reverend Billy Osceola and his government. These cattle were import­ from the running board of our car or on cousin Bill Osceola, who is also a ed from the "dust bowl" of the mid­ a log near their camp. All this was done pastor. west and unloaded in Hollywood, very cautiously. We believed that to The Seminoles made a strong begin­ Florida. Now, thousands of these fine educate these children without incor­ ning in our democratic way of life. They Brahamans, Black Angus, and "wire porating Christianity as a protection live under the same county and federal grass" native breed are owned by the would be a detriment to their progress law enforcement as other American tribe or its individuals. The Indians and a danger to the white man. There­ citizens. They register and vote with a lease land to agricultural corpora­ fore, Sunday school and church ser­ higher percentage of participation than tions which grow winter vegetables, vices eventually were held in the reser­ the white citizens. Their deputy, Jack plant other crops, and improve these vation school building. Occasionally, a Willie, serves by appointment from areas. Eventually, the companies re­ music leader assisted. One of the the county sheriff's office. Community plant the lands in all kinds of pasture churches gave us a piano. We silently affairs and a business corporation are grasses and return them to the Indians. hoped that, one day, an Indian mis­ managed by a tribal council headed sionary would come and verify our by Billy Osceola. In addition to craft TheDania Seminoles have been won­ teachings to these people. This wish shops managed an.d operated by a Sem­ derful ambassadors of our civiliza­ was fulfilled in the early 1930's when a inole staff, many of these Indians have tion to their brothers in the deep group of Baptist Seminoles and Creeks modern homes which feature picture Everglades. It is indeed gratify­ from Oklahoma journeyed to the Dania windows. Mr. Virgil L. Harrington, ing to know that, in the changing tide of Reservation where they were cordially government supervisor from Okla­ South Florida history, the Seminoles received and assured cooperation. Con­ homa, has a full staff of efficient still own the beautiful, valuable Dania sequently, a small mission was built on assistants who are advisers to their Reservation and cattle lands in the Ev­ land adjoining the reservation and the present progress. The new Council erglades that are the envy of many Southern Baptist Conference assigned and federal office buildings are a credit "big" cattle ranchers. -31- By RICHARD K. MURDOCH Documents Concerning A Voyage Reprinted by permission from Florida Historical Quarterly, Vol. XXXI (July, To The Miami Region In l 793 1952).

That the southern portion of the Florida peninsular possessed no signi­ ficant commercial value in colonial days was generally conceded, but its strategic importance as guardian of the Bahama Channel was fully recognized. Governors of Florida, both English and Spanish, stressed the possible dangers if this region were permitted to fall prey to enemy occupation. In spite of the acknowledged impor­ tance of the area as a military outpost, no program was undertaken by the Spanish authorities to erect permanent military bases south of the fort of San Marcos in St. Augustine and the bat­ tery on the shore of Matanzas Island. Only when a direct threat materialized, such as the landing of the adventurer, made it obvious that this lack of direct his council that a small unarmed William Augustas Bowles, (1) on the action was not a permanent solution to schooner be dispatched ostensibly to southern shore of Florida, did the gov­ the problem of these foreign settlers. carry official papers to Havana, but ac­ ernor take active steps to employ mil­ War clouds were spreading in Europe, tually under secret orders to make a itary forces to clear the enemy from (3) Indian troubles were wide-spread careful investigation of the situation Spanish colonial soil. along the Florida-Georgia frontier, and along the southern part of the coast. In The reluctance to utilize the military the possibility of a renewed gathering this way it might be possible to prevent can be explained by the scarcity of of adventurers in the southern part of a leak of information from St. Augus­ armed forces, land and sea, both in St. the province all combined to force the tine prior to the completion of the in­ Augustine and Havana. This situation incumbent governor, Juan Nepomu­ vestigatory expedition. The governor rendered constant patrol activity virtu­ ceno de Quesada,(4) to adopt a definite was aware that there were many non- ally out of the question even as an obvi­ policy. Spanish settlers in and about St. ous means of discouraging further in­ Unconfirmed but, nevertheless, dis­ Augustine who were in communication roads along the coast.(2) Under such turbing reports reached St. Augustine circumstances it was not surprising with these interlopers further south that a number of persons residing along the coast. that scattered individuals, usually of illegally along the south-eastern shore foreign origin, began to appear along It was eventually decided to send the of the province were suspected of hav­ schooner, Juan Nepomuceno, a the coast, either to trade with the Indi­ ing close association with the Bowles ans or to establish homesteads where dispatch-boat normally employed in the fiasco of 1788. There seemed to be they hoped to exploit the meager agri­ Havana-St. Augustine-Charleston run, ample grounds to suspect that their cultural resources of the land without with her crew augmented by three presence in Florida might mean interference from the Spanish author­ trusted colonial servants. The vessel further activities by that adventurer was placed under the command of ities. or some other of the same persuasion. A portion of these new arrivals were Gideon Hawkins,(7) an Englishman refugees from their former govern­ A report had reached Quesada dur­ who had remained in the province ments; some were admittedly nothing ing the late summer that there was a after the retrocession of 1 783 and but adventurers in search of easy definite plan underway to raise a band who was an old hand at navigating wealth, while others were sincere set­ of 18,000 settlers in South Carolina the tortuous coastal waters of the east­ tlers drawn by the prospect of free land to descend on some portion of the In­ ern shore. in a spot inaccessible to bureaucratic dian country, possibly in North-central officialdom. But regardless of origin Florida.(5) The governor decided that it The task of keeping a careful log of the voyage was assigned to John Ham­ and of purpose, all were unwanted in­ was incumbent upon him to investigate bly, (8) one of Quesada's most trusted terlopers and their continued presence these rumors in order to guarantee Indian agents and interpreters and , on Spanish colonial soil was repugnant the future safety of his province. apparently, a man of considerable edu­ As he was then plagued with the fear to the authorities in St. Augustine who cation although lacking in writing abil­ found it hard to explain their failure to of a French attack on St. Augustine,(6) ity. Finally, to command the entire ex­ dislodge these strangers. Inertia, the there seemed to be considerable doubt pedition, the governor selected a close as to the advisability of sending any general shortage of military resources, personal friend, Captain Sebastian of his meager military force to investi­ Verezaluze,(9) who held the position of and the irnpassableterrain all worked to gate the rumors. senior pilot in St. Augustine. It was his frustrate any effort to remove these Faced with an apparent dilemma, he responsibility to oversee the activities people. decided to employ a more devious but A combination of events late in 1792 less expensive device. He proposed to of the other two men and to insure -32- that they performed their assigned expedition; a copy of the governor's up this nest of enemies which is duties with dispatch and sincerity. secret instructions to Hambly and without doubt the preferred (step), as Both he and Hambly were fully Verezaluze; Verezaluze's report on the otherwise it will become easier, day apprised of the true purpose of the progress of the mission; and Hambly's by day, to communicate between the expedition in order that they might day to day account of what transpired Indians and the Island of Providence. be prepared for any occurence. both at sea and on land. The (15) It appears to me that an easier The schooner set sail on February original documents are to be found in method and one less liable to arouse 23, 1793 and remained away until the East Florida Papers now on deposit the savages further and to increase the morning of March 16 when the in the Library of Congress. While all the number in the camp of the enemy anchor was dropped once again in the documents are in Spanish, Hamb­ who does not recognize our territory, the harbor of St. Augustine. Both ly's original report was in English will be to persuade a band of the same Hambly and Verezaluze were given and was presented by the Indian agent Indians by means of offering a reward, immediate audiences by the governor to the governor who, in tum, forwarded to seize Lewis secretly and convey and each presented him with a full a Spanish copy to the governor­ him and his family as prisoners to report of the activities that had general. Apalachee or to whatever place seems taken place during the voyage. The original English version is best to Your Excellency.(16) External evidence seems to indicate reproduced in this paper. Every Verezaluze has informed me of the that Hambly had kept a day to day attempt has been made in translating news that he received from Robins log of the expedition while his com­ the documents to retain the full that three vessels from Providence panion may have prepared his account Spanish meaning although the punc­ have actually made free use of the from brief notes just prior to meeting tuation has been altered frequently to Rio de Ays.(17) I cannot say more the governor. In general content the meet current usage and shorter on this subject except that it is well two reports were similar although that sentences have been constructed to known that the vessels of this ant­ of Hambly contained more detailed make the language more readable. like nation(18) continuously make use geographic and meteorological infor­ I of the shore because the lack of popula­ mation, perhaps an indication of a more (Translation) tion along the coast renders it, I observing mind. On the other hand, Quesada to Las Casas, San Augustin, believe, incapable of being guarded. Verezaluze included considerable more March 18, 1793 May the Lord keep Your Excellency information about navigational prob­ Most Excellent Sir: for many years. San Augustin, March lems and the suspected settlers than (I write) in order to inform Your 18, 1793. did Hambly. The governor prepared a Excellency of what has been reported n covering letter to inform the authorities to me concerning the possible where­ (Translation) in Havana of what had taken place abouts of Charles Lewis(lO) who is Instructions prior to the expedition and also believed to be established on the Rio The real purpose of the present what the mission had accomplished. Gega.(ll) Ever since last month, mentioned voyage is to investigate with The tone of his letter indicated that the skilled pilot of the bar (St. secrecy and skill the condition in which he was well pleased with the informa­ Augustine), Sebastian Verezaluze, the Englishman finds himself, sup­ tion that had been reported to him accompanied by the Indian interpreter, posedly established with his family on although he seemed a little apprehen­ John Hambley, of whom I made men­ the coast of Florida between the Rio de sive as to what the future might tion in (dispatch) number 302 of Sep­ Ays and Boca Raton.(19) Don Sebastian bring. tember 26 last, has been scouting the Verezaluze and Don William Hambly As a matter of fact, this report coast under my instructions (south­ (20) are the ones to whom this last, reached Havana just at the time when ward) from the Matanzas, in order to (the true purpose), is entrusted. For the authorities there were in receipt find the hiding place of the afore­ (the benefit of) the crew and the public, of orders from Madrid to be on the mentioned. The diligence of these men it is announced that the destination watch for hostile actions on the part has produced the information which is to be Havana. of France. The report seems to have Your Excellency may read in the The sailor, Gideon Hawkins, in­ been buried under other documents of attached copy of (the account) of their structed about the aforementioned a more pressing nature, as the activities. It is reliably reported by conditions, is designated a skilled governor-general made no immediate them that Lewis has settled on that pilot. When the anchor has been cast reply to Quesada other than to acknow­ river known as the New.(12) in the bay after having mentioned ledge the receipt of the dispatch. If A certain Robins, (13) employed in audibly (to the crew) the news that the nothing else did develop from this the house of Lewis, was one of the prin­ vessel is to go on to Havana, he is expedition to the southern coast of cipal confidants of Bowles in the lat­ to give notice of having to land briefly Florida, it did at least leave be­ ter's first expedition to this province in to inform himself concerning several hind a rather interesting description the year '88, and it appears quite likely fine horses which it is reported the of the coastline and of the region that he settled on the New River during adventurer Bowles gave to the afore­ around the present city of Miami. the last six months. He is inclined mentioned Englishman in '88. The following documents, four in to support Wellbach(14) and the con­ After having anchored the ship at number, were selected from a larger tinuing partiality shown Bowles by the the mouth of the river or in the channel group since they actually comprise a Creek nation. on which it is thought the Englishman single unit. In order, they are: a Keeping in mind all of this, I hope has his habitation, they are to take covering letter written on March 18, Your Excellency will be pleased to the water-casks which they have 1793 by Quesada addressed to the inform and caution me as to what I purposefully emptied, with the governor-general in Havana to inform should do in this circumstance (half (announced) purpose of filling them, him of the overall purpose of the measures count for nothing) to break and they are to tow the casks to -33- take on water (to a point) as near the to conclude that they are not headed for on the left side. house of the Englishman as they can Havana which is the destination about Joseph Robbins, an Englishman of go without arousing suspicion. Vereza­ which they are to let the Englishman about forty years, lives in this house luze, Hambly and Hawkins shall go and his wife hear. together with an American white youth with the sailors in the boat towing of about twenty-four, a mulatto girl the casks behind, and the three shall ill with her female child about four. carry firearms as if they were out Report of Verezaluze (Translation) We brought the vessel alongside the hunting and as if in this occupation, Account which I, Sebastian Vereza­ pier in order to be as close to the they shall approach the house. Then luze, render of the expedition to shore as possible, and anchored in four employing the most friendly terms they the New River region of this Province fathoms of water. The distance from shall carry on a conversation with the carried out under secret orders from the pier to the house was about ten inhabitants without asking any un­ the governor of the Plaza, and made yards, and from the bar to the house friendly questions or (performing) any in the schooner, Juan Nepomuceno, was about ten yards, and from the act that might lead the inhabitants to belonging to the Royal Treasury. bar to the house about eight miles. It believe that the arrival (of the boat) was We sailed from this bar on February is worthy of note that a half mile anything but by chance. 23 last and left the bar of the New after we crossed the bar, we found As it is believed that Hawkins is River on the 9th of the present the water of the river to be entirely known to the Englishman, he may month. The distance is eighty leagues fresh. According to the report, the question him about the aforementioned (22) from this port and ten from the aforementioned Joseph Robbins lives horses expressing indifference yet a Boca Raton. We cast anchor outside in the small house belonging to an proper amount of curiosity. (the bar) in six fathoms of water Englishman named Lewis, who had Hambly and Verezaluze are especial­ headed in a southwesterly direction, four weeks earlier departed on his ly commissioned not to lose a single parallel to a hill on the coast, and schooner with his family for Providence opportunity from the time of their in a spot west-northwest of the afore­ with the intention of returning in four entry into the boat to their return mentioned bar. We found the bar to weeks, that day to be the 6th of to the schooner, to be in the com­ have a depth of somewhat more than this month. The aforementioned pany of Hawkins lest they be out of six feet of water and a breadth (of Robbins said that he had been there touch with him and out of hearing channel) of twelve yards. After we were for five or six months, and that Mr. when he converses with the English­ over the bar, we entered the mouth of Lewis had lived in that house for man. This is to be done lest he the river on a north-westerly course several years, and that the latter converse in a way less than friendly. and encountered five and one-half had a plantation two miles to the They are also to see how he, (the feet of water for a distance of twelve west of this house. He also reported Englishman), is dressed, as also the to fourteen yards. We took a course that Mr. Lewis had five horses which a mother and her full-grown four sons. west by northwest, always trying to certain Bowles had given him. These After leaving the house still on navigate in the center of the channel animals as well as the house, barn and friendly terms, they are to complete which was six feet deep for a distance chicken coop, all belonging to Lewis, rewatering and then return on board of five miles from the bar. In that were now in his charge. where Hambly shall go below decks place the river divided into three We went into the house about three and write down an approximation of channels ; the right one extended in the in the afternoon of the 6th. We slept all that has passed and all that he same direction to the west-northwest; that night near the pier, and we spent has noted with his famous memory that on the left toward the south­ all of the 7th there until sunset. We while it is still fresh. And Verezaluze west; and the one in the middle then set sail and reached the bar at shall do the same thing, having gained toward the west. We sailed up the nine o'clock that night and we anchored especial knowledge by observations of last (channel), and at a distance of near there in six feet of water. On the depths of water in fathoms and of twenty to thirty yards after entering the 8th at ten in the morning, the turns of the river, as well as of this stream, there were several sharp Robbins together with the youth, all other landmarks which he judges turns in the channel. These turns the mulatto girl and her child, all necessary to reach the house easily, stretched for a ilistance of sixty arrived in a canoe, for I had asked be it at night or day, and on any yards. We sailed up to the north almost him at his home to come to eat with us occasion. He is also to consider to the source, always in six feet of at the bar if he would enjoy it. They what should be the best means and water. We retraced our course through were on the schooner until we were manner to anchor the boat in the river, these curves and sailed into the north­ ready to sail out over the bar. entering at night, in order to begin ern branch past a mangrove swamp. This was at four in the afternoon of the watering operation as they are We sailed until we came to a tributary the same day, the 8th. They took ordered to depart the next day. creek and then passed by a swamp leave of us with many thanks for Hambly with apparent unconcern is following the same course as before. our assistance and with the expectation to request information briefly about the After leaving this spot and along that on our return from Havana, they real hiding place of one Williams,(21) the rest of the way to the landing, might come with us to the Plaza. who is known for certainty to have we sailed in plenty of water. At a After crossing the bar, we set our lived for some years in some place distance of one mile from the afore­ course as though we were sailing for on this coast. mentioned mangrove swamp and the Havana as we had previously told When all have gone back on board, spot where the creek branched, we Robbins. Then at night we put about the order shall be given to return discovered a small house, a barn and set our course for this port to this Plaza, but not before having and a chicken coop. This location was which we reached on the 16th of this sailed far enough from the coast at a spot a short distance beyond month. in order not to permit those on shore a grove of pines which we encountered Florida, March 18, 1793 -34- Browerd Bouleverd

... Sec II .b • FrenkM Lewla 570.85 ~ •c. Done lion i.. i...• Oevle Bouleverd LEWIS SETI'LEMENT IN 1793 • · Houae b . Bleckamllh'a Shop c . Chicken Coop d . Plentellon

Mep reproduced I rom en I 870 Surveyor Qenerel'a eumlnetlon ol New Alver. Showlne Fr•nkM L•wla Oon•tlon orlgln•lly aurveyed In 1825 by George McK•y. Pr-1 d•y alrMI n•m" ahow the estent of don•llon.

IV at sundown-Very boisterous night. Hambly's Journal 28th-Passed Indian River(26) early in the morning­ Journal of a voyage from St. Augustine to New The wind blowing very hard at north-northwest­ River in the schooner, St. Juan Nepomuceno, made at Obliged to sail for the keys-In the night very boister­ the order of the Governor. (23) ous-Lay to under the foresail. 23rd Feb 'ry-Sailed from St. Augustine and got March 1st-Got in to Key Biscain(27) and came over the bar about 9 o'clock in the morning-Wind SE­ to an anchor about 10 o'clock. Beat to windward all day and some part of the night 2nd-Weighed anchor early in the morning and stood and came to anchor about 3 miles to the north of up the Sound(28) and came to an anchor off the mouth Matanzas. of the River Miamis(29)-Went on shore while the people 24th-The wind still at SE-Beating to windward were filling water-Saw Bowles ' old camp where stands all day and some part of the night-Made but little two large lightwood posts at about 12 feet distance and way to the southward and came to. about 14 feet high-Seems to have had a piece 25th-The same as above. mortized in on the top and appears to have been the 26th-About 10 o'clock in the morning the wind still entrance of some old fortification-In the pine ba"en at SE-Making but little way-Came to anchor about 7 saw 2 old ta" kilns-Where Hawkins said he made ta" miles to the north ofMuskettoes.(24) during the last war(30)-Set the woods on fire and came 27th-About 8 o'clock in the morning the wind came on board-In the afternoon, went into the mouth of to nearly northwest-Weighed anchor and stood to the the river and caught a few fish, called snappers-We south-Passed the Muskettoes about 10 o'clock­ cast. Stood along the coast and passed Cape Canaverale(25) 3rd-At sunrise weighed anchor and stood down the -35- Sound and came to an anchor at Bear Cutt, (31) the dwelling house up the river stands a small house north mouth ofKey Biscain. Went on shore being told by which we found to be a blacksmith 's shop with a forge, Hawkins there were plenty ofgame butfound none. bellow and ca. in it-A bench with a vice fixed to it-Ham- 4th-The people went on shore to cut wood-Haw- mers tongs-2 small bars of steel-A small anvill-a whip kins and Mr. Sebastian went up a small creek and and cut saw and a chest with sundry tools in it-This caught plenty offish-half after 2 o 'clock weighed anchor shop, tools and ec. it is said belongs to Lewis and and came down to the ba" at Key Biscain-Came that when here he makes harpoons et ca. for his own use. to anchor at sundown-Wind SE. 7th-Robbins and Radcliff went up the river a 5th-Weighed anchor at daylight-Got over the ba" hunting and asked if we would wait until they came about 8 o'clock-Little wind at SW-Sailed along the back that if they killed anything, we should have part coast and came to an anchor off the mouth of New to carry with us-We told them that if the wind did not River at 3 o'clock-Being ebb tide, could not get in-Mr. come fair, we would wait-In the afternoon they returned Sebastian and Hawkins sounded the barr-Caught plenty having killed nothing-In the evening, we got supper offish. together and then took our leave of them and came down 6th-In the morning saw three or four Spermacantia below the forks ofthe river and came to anchor. (32) Whales-Sounded the ba" again and found 4 feet 8th-Came down the river and come to about !12 miles at low water-But a bank inside very shoal-Shifted from the ba" (the n·ver from the ba" to the forks is not in the ballast more forward-Got over the ba" about one any place above 200 yards from the sea beach)-A short o 'clock-Sailed up the river-S% feet water with rocky time after we came to Robbins, the mulattoe woman and bottom-At 5 miles distant from the ba", the river her child and Radcliff came on board until we got forks, one branch running north(33)-another to the south very near the ba" when they left us-Robbins left and the middle one something to the north of west-About his rifle gun on board, which was sent on shore to three miles from the forks up the middle branch, the him after we got over the ba"-After shifting the English people reside-At half after three o'clock came ballast we made sail and stood to the south 'd until! to the place-A white man who was at the landing and dark-Then stood to the north'd until 12 o'clock when seeing the vessel, run up and said here they come high the wind shifted to the NNE and obliged us to stand and dry-And came out of the house with his rifle to the south 'd. gun in his hand and asked from whence we came-Haw- 9-About 8 o'clock in the morning, passed New River kins very imprudently answered from Providence but he and stood along the coast to Bear Cutt-At 12 o'clock was soon told that we were from Augustine and bound came to an anchor-At 2 o'clock got over the barr-A little to the Havanah-That having the wind a head we had more than half flood-S feet water- Stood down the put in there to get fresh water, catch some fish and ca.- Sound and came to an anchor at Key Biscain about 4 That he might make himself easy that we did not o'clock. mean to hurt him but on the contrary he should be lOth-Got under way in the morning to get out but welcome to take part of what we had with us-We then finding the wind at east, came to an anchor at went on shore, shook hands with him and again told Soldier Key(35)-Went on shore-Shott some blue herons him he might make himself perfectly easy-That we and caught a parcele oflobsters. did not mean to disturb him or any other person-This 11th-Got under way a little after sunrise and got made him contented and he desired his wife who is out-Wind ESE-A fine day and good breeze-Passed a mulattoe woman, to take up some fresh water Jupiter(36) at sundown. trout which they had ready cooked. Mr. Sebastian sent 12th-At seven in the morning stood in for the Iand- on board for some wine, rum and biscuits (they having Could not see it at sundown-Just before dark made no bread) and we sat down and eat and drank together- the land. Our supper was cooked on shore and they took part with 13th-Early in the morning stood close in to the land us-He answered that him and his sons had been gone which proved to be Mount Turtle(37) about six leagues to from thence about three weeks for New Providence the south of Muskettoes-Came to an anchor-After with a load of fish oil and venison hams-That 8 at night got under way and stood off and on, and got himself and family consisted of himself, wife and three a little to the north of Mount Turtle and came to an sons (one of whom is lately marry 'd) and were expected anchor-Wind NNE. back but they could not tell exactly when-The people 14th-Got under way about 10 o'clock and stood off now residing here are Joseph Robbins, about 40 or 45 and on until I o'clock but gained nothing, came an years of age, 5 feet 10 or II inches high and blind anchor-After sundown got under way again, the wind at in his right eye-A mulattoe woman named Rachel with east but growing quite calm-Came to an anchor at half her female child 2!12 years old-Named Susannah-Joel after 10 o'clock. Radcliff(34) about 25 years of age 5 feet 5 or 6 inches 15th-At daylight weighed anchor-Light breeze at high-Robbins was with Bowles when he landed at SE-Passed the Muskettoes at seven o'clock-The wind the head of Indian River and went under the Title freshens-A fine breeze-At 4 o'clock came to an anchor ofCapt. Robbins-The house stands on a pine bluffon the offAugustine Ba". south side of the river, about 10 yards distant-A 16th-Got over the Ba" ofAugustine about 8 o'clock small fowl house opposite-About thirty yards from the and landed about quarter after 9. -36- 19-The town of Boca Raton (Rat Key) Local artist Pat Cunning­ is located in the southern part of Palm ham's imaginative model Beach County. The reference here of the Lewis home on New probably is to some portion of the River is permanently on ocean front in this area, or possibly display at the Fort Lau­ to Boca Raton Inlet. derdale City Hall. It is 20-Internal evidence indicates that listed in the National the governor actually meant John Archives' records as a rather than William Hambly as it was traveling Broward County the former who went on the expedition. display. 21-No information appears to be available concerning Williams. BIBLIOGRAPHY and William, are often confused in 22-The reference is presumably to !-Information on William Augustus Spanish records. the Spanish legua marina which is Bowles, the adventurer, exists in many 9-Captain Sebastian Antonio Vereza­ equal to 5555.55 meters. Eighty archives. He landed on the east coast of luze, a Basque, held the semi-official leagues would thus be equal to Florida in 1788, collected a small position as pilot due to his long years approximately 275.6 statute miles or band of Indian supporters and made an as captain of a merchant vessel. just about the distance from St. attack on Hambly's trading-post near His name appears in at least six Augustine to New River Inlet. Lake George. After his departure from spellings in Spanish documents. 23-No attempt has been made to Florida, several of his English accom­ 10-Little is known of Charles Lewis correct the author's errors and incon­ plices apparently remained behind and except that he appears to have made sistencies in spelling and grammar eventually scattered throughout south­ an illegal entry into East Florida although some modification of capitali­ central Florida. For a short sketch of some time after 1783. His children later zation has been undertaken. Bowles, see Spanish Land Grants in lay claim to several sections of land 24-Muskettoes presumably refers to Florida, m, 133, foot-note; also in the region to the north of present­ Mosquito Inlet (Ponce de Leon Inlet) Caughey: McGillivray of the Creeks, day Miami, on one of the branches in Volusia County. passim. of the New River. Spanish Land 25-Cape Canaverale (Canaveral) in 2-Several reports were forwarded to Grants in Florida, IV, 62-63. Brevard County is one of the major Havana in the years 1788-1792 contain­ 11-Rio Gega or Giga was the name landmarks on the eastern coast of ing complaints that there were insuffi­ sometimes applied to the Bahama Florida. cient soldiers in that province to garri­ Channel. 26-lndian River may refer to one of son Fort San Marcos adequately, let 12-The mouth of the New River is the inlets to the Indian River, a alone patrol the outlying regions of located within the city limits of Fort sound which parallels the coast for Florida. For a typical report of this Lauderdale and is approached from the many miles. _This inlet may be sort, see Quesada to Conde de Lerena, sea through New River Inlet. Sebastian Inlet in Indian River County. November 15, 1791, AGI:SD, legajo 13-No information appears to be 27-Key Biscain (Biscayne) lies just to 2642. available concerning Joseph Robbins the south of Miami. 3-War between France and England (Robins or Rovins) and his family. 28-The Sound presumably is the broke out in 1792 and it was patently 14-George Wellbank, referred to by present Biscayne Bay. obvious that Spain would soon be Georgia authorities as a ''low, illiterate 29-The Miami River enters Biscayne forced to enter the conflict. fellow, " came to East Florida in 1788 Bay at a point just to the north of 4-Juan Nepomuceno de Quesada, the with Bowles, took part in the 1792 Brickell Park. second Spanish governor after the venture, and remained as a free agent 30-The reference is to Hawkins' retrocession, assumed office in 1790 near St. Marks for at least another participation in the war for American and remained in East Florida until ill­ year. Several references are made to independence when East Florida health forced him to request relief Wellbank or Willbanks, in the supplied the English navy with a con­ from his duties in 1796. American State Papers, Indian Affairs, siderable amount of valuable naval 5-For the original report, see Campo volume I. For a short summary of his stores. de Alange to Las Casas, March 13, career in East Florida, see --caughey, 31-Bear Cutt is-the stretch of water 1792, AGI:SD, legajo 2560. McGillivray of the Creeks, p. 224, between Key Biscayne and Virginia 6-News of the impending outbreak of footnote 186. Key. hostilities between Spain and France 15-Island of Providence in the Baha­ 32-Spermaceti. reached America early in March, 1793. ma Islands is now called New Provi­ 33-The northern branch of the New 7-Little information seems to be dence Island and contains the capital River is now called Opossum Creek. available concerning Gideon Hawkins city, Nassau. 34-No information appears to be except that he appears to have been a 16-The suggestion that Lewis and his available about Joel Radcliff. resident of East Florida for some years family be taken prisoner accounts for 35-Soldier Key lies to the south of prior to 1783 and that he was a the governor's efforts to keep secret Safety Valve Channel. sailor and pilot. the purpose of the expedition. 36-Jupiter Island lies to the north 8-John Hambly, apparently a Royal­ 17-Rio de Ays or Ays River pre­ of Jupiter Inlet in Martin County. ist refugee from the United States sumably refers to one of the tri­ 37-Mount Turtle (Turtle Mound held the position of Indian interpreter butaries of the Indian River in the State Monument) is located near the for more than a decade. He was the neighborhood of Stuart in Martin northern extremity of Mosquito Island son of William Hambly, also an Indian County. not far from the ruins of the New interpreter and agent. These two, John 18-The reference is to England. Smyrna settlement. -37- Genesis:

Entrance to Plantation in 1948, located at the present site of the "Sunshine Turnpike" overpass at Broward Boulevard.

By CHAUNCEY ROBERT CLARK, JR. Frederick C. Peters, who owned vast part, by Dewey Hawkins. Peters then The City of Plantation began with a acreage in Goulds, Florida, and ship­ hired C.K. Davis of the United States dream to exploit and profitably convert ped thousands of carloads of potatoes, Soil Conservation Service to carry out a watery wilderness into a site for had decided to enter the cattle several thousand test borings on the human habitation. business. He purchased a fine herd land which eventually determined that Lying along the eastern border of of Hereford cattle, including an Iowa the section adequately could be drained the Everglades, this largely inaccess­ bull who cost $10,000, and grazed and irrigated. Most of the land was ible tract eventually paid rich dividends this cattle on his land in Goulds. His purchased by Mr. Mercer, an attorney to many of those bold enough to friend Stephan Zacher, who owned the for Peters, for $10 to $20 per acre. endure the hardships endemic to quasi­ Golden Shoes Ranch in Davie, was Stephan Zacher designed the original frontier life. The first wave of entrepre­ asked to come and inspect them. Cows ranch buildings and Peters sent Ben neurs and settlers faced obstacles with "pink eye" and a bull with fatal Bitting and his family to operate the which crushed the spirit of the timid deer or horsefly bites were discovered. ranch. Although a beautiful layout, it and compromising. Zacher advised Peters to come up to was not practical for a business World War II was nearly ended, the Davie and look over his own or Mr. venture. bomb had been dropped on Hiroshima, Bright's ranch; he even would pay Peters told us that, if we could and my wife Betty and I were contem­ Peters a dollar a piece for any deer or devise a suitable plan of development, plating our return to Florida. Burt Cut­ horse flies that he could find! When he would cooperate by giving us op­ ler, a New York friend, met us in Wash­ Peters realized all that could be accom­ tions on the land and by completing ington where we took the "Champion" plished in this region, he started the drainage, dikes, and roads as need­ to Miami. For several days we con­ searching for land of his own. ed. We passed some time appraising sidered various prospects between Key the ranch and then drove back to West and Palm Beach. Finally, we took Although most large tracts in the Miami. Subsequently, I returned to State Road 7 north to a gravel turn­ Davie area had been developed into Washington and met with Sam Fretz, off leading to Peter's Ranch. What we groves, Peters did find a large area with whom I had worked in the Trea­ saw looked inviting. north of State Road 84 owned, in large sury Department. - 38- Sam had opened an office there and The first property to be developed finished. Located at 19 East Acre we spent the next several months for­ was theSE~ of Section 2, bounded by Drive, the address was changed to 75 mulating a prospectus for selling or Broward Boulevard to the south, the East Acre and, finally, to 108 East developing the property. Our plan was turnpike to the east, Sunrise Boulevard Acre Drive. My wife Betty, daughter to create a winter playground consist­ to the north, and the East Holloway Pamela, son Chauncey Robert ill, and I ing of 40 acre ranches with an airfield, Canal on the west. Divided into one moved into the house in February 1948. clubs, and golf courses for the small acre lots, a warehouse and dormitory My youngest daughter Elisabeth was group of people who wanted to avoid were erected in the southeast comer born while we were living here. the typical resort. We approached of the tract where the Village Shopping Following the 1947 flood we had R.J. Reynolds and many other inves­ Center now stands. All materials were difficulty with financing. One day Dr. tors, but were unable to attract transported more than a mile across Walker drove up from Miami and I sufficient backing to undertake the open fields from the ranch to the escorted him around the property. project. project. The ground was very dry and While surveying the dreary landscape, bulldozers were used to move the I returned to Miami. My father, I worried that he was not too impressed trucks through the field. Chauncey R. Clark, Sr., approached until we began discussing the advan­ One-half mile east of State Road 7, the problem from a different angle and tages of living in this area. I said, "You road contractor Finley Smith started to came up with the idea of one acre know, it's nice to be able to go out lay Broward Boulevard to the East lots with a home in front and an orchard into your back yard and catch enough Holloway Canal. By late May, Smith in the rear. These structures would be bass in fifteen to twenty minutes for was complaining about the quantity of pleasant, year-round residences for re­ dinner. " He looked at me as though I water which he had to bring in for tired couples. Consequently, Robert were kidding him. So, I took a rod from wetting down the lime rock and, there­ Law Weed of Miami designed the first the trunk of my car and hooked a fore, announced that "I'm going to houses and assisted with the original three pound bass on the first cast. church tomorrow and pray for rain." layout of the development. Walker was so excited! I think that Amazingly, on June second it started my catch had a lot to do with his deci­ At that time, farm residences were to rain and rain and rain. For ninety­ sion to continue the financing. limited to FHA mortgages of $3,500. three consecutive days rain fell. By By utilizing the description "Sub­ this time, the road was under four In 1948 construction was fully under­ sistance Homestead," the FHA was to five feet of water; we could go way. We had our own sales' organi­ willing to approve regular home mort­ any place on the property in an out­ zation. Houses were built and sold at gage insurance. Dr. Walker and the board boat! the rate of about three per week; soon, board of First Federal Savings and Despite the flood, some work pro­ thirty families were living in Planta­ Loan of Miami, presently known as gressed. A dike was built around the tion. Work proceeded on the dikes and AmeriFirst, approved the first mort­ warehouse where pre-cast floor slabs a pumping station was built on the East gages; we were now able to proceed were poured for the first houses. By Holloway Canal at New River. The with the development. Peters agreed the time the two fall hurricanes had 40/41 range-line dike construction, to complete the canals, dikes, and passed and the rain had ceased, fifteen however, was slower than originally roads; construction started in March houses were under construction. Not scheduled. Nevertheless, we believed 1947. surprisingly, my home was the first one that the dike adequately would retain

''Waiting for Santa's plane to land on Broward Boulevard.'' Plantation's first Christmas party in 1947 at the present site of the Village Shopping Center. -39- Plantation in 1948. Broward Boulevard is located at the bottom of the picture and Sunrise Boulevard at the top. The streets, from left to right, are East Acre, Bayberry and Farmington. any heavy rain. In September and Oc­ out the pump to clean it. approximately at the intersection of tober of 1948 we had two more hurri­ During this drainage episode, most Broward Boulevard and University canes; more than twenty inches of rain of Plantation's women and children Drive, and prophesized , "Some day fell in a twenty-four hour period. moved to Fort Lauderdale. Claude this is going to be the center of the Engineer Jack Brendla, a small group Carter, Winslow Freeman, Frank Des­ Megalopolis of South Florida! ' ' of workmen, and I were standing on the mond, Gil Voth, Les Bitting, and Ed 40/ 41 dike in the midst of the second Doll were some of the many men who hurricane when 150 feet of it washed stayed and helped on the dikes. By out. In less than twenty-four hours, the November most of the houses and second flooding of Plantation began. shrubs were back in good shape and At this time there were houses only the majority of residents seemed happy in the SE ~ of Section 2. All that with conditions. could be done to prevent a recurrence The sale of new houses, however, of last year's events, when flood water was quite another story. With a repu­ lingered for weeks, was to construct tation of being flooded two years in a dike around the ~ section and then a succession, we were unable to sell any half .mile west to the Holleway Canal. houses during the next thirteen Thus, three miles of dike were erected months. Every possible action was or repaired within seventy-two hours. taken to stimulate sales. While Red Once pumping began, no water re­ Lawrence designed the Plantation mained in any of the homes twelve Golf Club, work continued on the hours later. To close the last section roads, dikes, and new houses. But of the dike at the comer of Palm Tree after a year, Plantation Homes, Inc. and East Acre Drives, coffer dams was dissolved and the assets were were erected after washing out two or assigned to Fred C. Peters. Chauncey Robert Clark, Jr., in 1947 three times. Finally, we were restrain­ Our life in Plantation with many of when he was Vice·President of Plan­ ing quite a head of water. Much its original residents has been a happy tation Homes, Inc. Mr. Clark was a physical exertion and human interven­ one. Although our children now live in native of Grand Haven, Michigan, tion was necessary to get the dike to Wisconsin, Texas, and North Carolina, who became a Miami Beach resident hold. A group of us stood in water up to they enjoy returning to Plantation. in 1922. There he attended grammar our chests and linked our arms in Broward County is more densely and high school until he went to Duke order to help retain the sand as it populated than any of us dreamed it University, Class of 1935. Clark was dropped from the dragline and com­ would be back in 1947 at the start manager of the Architect's Samples pleted the dike. When the pump was of the venture. At that time, David Bureau, Miami Beach, until 1942 running at East Holloway, it often Breinin of American Title and when he went to Washington as head would jam with logs or other debris. Insurance Company pointed to an office of the Non-Metallic Section, Building We then would swim inside the pump map of Palm Beach, Broward and Materials Division of the War Produc­ and pull out the junk instead of hauling Dade Counties, selected a spot tion Board. -40- Without a doubt, the most legendary characters in Broward County history are Charles and Frankee Lewis, the area's first permanent non-Indian settlers. Fragmentary records indicate that this family settled on New River in 1783, the year when the American Revolutionary War ended. Charles, also known as Surla, died in 1819. His widow Frankee received a land grant of 640 acres along New River from the United States government in 1824. She sold her grant for $400 in 1830 to Richard Fitzpatrick. While little is known about Frankee, several writers have described her and her mode of life on Miami River in the early 1830's. The United States Census of 1830 notes that she was born between 1740 and 1750; thus, she was a contemporary of George Washington and Thomas Jefferson. She died at an advanced age in the early part of 1835. What puzzled the Spanish and later inquirers was what motivated the Lewis family to settle in a watery, snake in­ fested land in South Florida. From other sources and from the Spanish documents published in this issue, it seems certain that the Lewis family was in cohoots with William Augustus Bowles in the latter's efforts to expel the Spanish from Florida or, at least, to curb Spanish influence with the Florida Indians. Recent re­ search has identified Joseph Robbins as Bowles' cavalry commander, which would indicate that the Lewis family had close ties with Bowles himself. In addition, the Spanish documents describe Robbins as being in charge of five horses on New River "which a certain Bowles" had given to Charles Lewis. When the Spanish ship arrived on New River in 1793 during Lewis' absence, Robbins apparently had assumed command of Lewis' possessions there. It will be noted from the map which accompanies the article that the Lewis plantation was located near the forks of New River. The location of the Lewis plantation there was the first in a series of events which make the river forks the most important historical location in Broward County prior to 1900. In 1824 William Cooley established his ill-fated plan­ tation near the forks and in 1830 Richard Fitzpatrick established his plantation in the vicinity of the forks. Finally, in 1838 Major William Lauderdale built an army Iort on the north side ofthe river forks which his army commander order­ ed to be named Fort Lauderdale.