FromCelebration toCelebration

Dress Code for Academic Events This guide introduces the code for academic events and festivities at Lappeenranta University of Technology. These festivities include the public defence of a dissertation, the post-doctoral karonkka banquet, and the conferment.

Lappeenranta University of Technology was established in 1969 and, compared to many other universities, does not have long-standing traditions in academic festivities and especially doctoral conferment ceremonies. The following should be observed at academic events at Lappeenranta University of Technology to establish in-house traditions. The instructions may, in some respects, differ from those of other universities. For instance with regard to colours worn by women, these instructions do not follow strict academic etiquette.

2 Contents

Public Defence of a Dissertation 4 Conferment Ceremony 5 Dark 6 Dark Suit, Accessories 8 Women’s Semi-Formal Daytime Attire 10 12 White Tie, Accessories 14 Women’s Dark Suit, Doctoral Candidate 16 Women’s Formal Daytime Attire, Doctor 18 Formal Evening 20 Men's Informal Suit 22 Women’s Informal Suit 24 Decorations 26 Doctoral 28 Marshals 30

3 Public Defence of a Dissertation, Karonkka Banquet

PUBLIC DEFENCE KARONKKA

DOCTORAL CANDIDATE, White tie and tails, black vest White tie and tails, white vest if MALE (dark suit). ladies present (dark suit). Doctors: OPPONENT, . MALE CUSTOS, MALE p.12 p.12 DOCTORAL CANDIDATE, Women’s dark suit, Formal , black. FEMALE high neckline, long sleeves, Doctors: doctoral hat. OPPONENT, suit with short or . FEMALE Opponent and custos: with CUSTOS, decorations. FEMALE p.16 p.20 CANDIDATE’S COMPANION, Semi-formal daytime attire, Formal evening gown, black. FEMALE dark(ish) dress or suit. Doctors: doctoral hat.

p.10 p.20 CANDIDATE’S COMPANION, Dark suit. Dark suit or white tie and tails. MALE p.6 Doctors: doctoral hat. p.6 INVITED GUEST, Dark suit. Dark suit or white tie and tails. MALE p.6 Doctors: doctoral hat. p.6 INVITED GUEST, Semi-formal daytime attire, Formal evening gown, any FEMALE dark(ish) dress or suit. colour. Doctors: doctoral hat. p.10 p.20 AUDIENCE Appropriate attire. For invited guests only.

4 CONFERMENT CEREMONY

REHEARSAL/ CONFERMENT AND BANQUENT CRUISE SWORD CEREMONY CHURCH SERVICE AND BALL

RECIPIENT OF Dark suit. White tie, tails, black White tie, tails, white Informal suit, , (HONORARY) vest, no handkerchief, vest, no handkerchief, student . DOCTORATE, black leather (not doctoral hat. MALE patent leather). p.6 p.12 p.12 p.22 RECIPIENT OF Semi-formal daytime Formal, full-length Formal evening gown, Informal suit or (HONORARY) attire. daytime attire, long doctoral hat. equivalent, . DOCTORATE, sleeves, high neckline, FEMALE no ornate , no pantsuit. p.10 p.10 p.20 p.24 COMPANION OF Dark suit. Dark suit or white tie White tie, tails, white Informal suit, necktie, RECIPIENT and tails, black vest, no vest, no handkerchief student cap. MALE handkerchief (doctors: (doctors: doctoral hat). academic regalia). p.6 p.6 p.12 p.22 COMPANION OF Semi-formal daytime Semi-formal daytime Formal evening gown Informal suit or RECIPIENT attire. attire, black or dark, (doctors: doctoral hat). equivalent, student cap. FEMALE short, long sleeves, high neckline (doctors: p.10 academic regalia). p.10 p.20 p.24 INVITED GUEST, Dark suit. Dark suit or white tie White tie, tails, white Informal suit, necktie, MALE and tails, black vest, no vest, no handkerchief student cap. handkerchief (doctors: (doctors: doctoral hat). academic regalia). p.6 p.6 p.12 p.22 INVITED GUEST, Semi-formal daytime Semi-formal daytime Formal evening gown Informal suit or FEMALE attire. attire, black or dark, (doctors: doctoral hat). equivalent, student cap. short, long sleeves, high neckline (doctors: academic regalia). p.10 p.10 p.20 p.24

5

5 6 Suit Dark

OY TURO TAILOR AB A dark suit is alternatively black, dark blue or dark grey. It is never brown or green. The fabric is smooth, rather thin and of a solid The shirt is of a high quality, white and with a starched colour (or seemingly so). Instead of a solid colour, the suit may also wingtip or Windsor collar. Single or double cuffs, always be conservatively or barely noticeably striped, but not pin-striped. with . The may be single- or double-breasted. During the festivities, it may be removed only at the request of the host. A dark suit is Necktie The necktie may be dark blue or grey and it is made appropriate for any occasion, regardless of the time of day. of . A pearl grey necktie is considered the most formal. The tie is always chosen according to the occasion. A black necktie is worn to funerals. Also a bowtie may be worn with a dark suit. A wingtip collar requires a bowtie. In academic festivities, the bowtie is of a conservative colour, such as pearl grey.

Vest A vest may be worn with a single-breasted suit, provided that it is made from the same fabric as the suit. According to time-honouring traditions, the bottom button of the vest is always left unbuttoned. A dark blue, dark grey or black ulster overcoat or trench may be worn over a dark suit. The coat must be knee-length or longer. Gloves Gloves are made of black or grey leather.

Scarf The may be solid or patterned silk or cashmere.

Decorations Please see “Decorations”.

7 Dark Suit I Accessories

JOUSIPAITA OY JOUSIPAITA OY Necktie knot

8 A black leather belt with a simple buckle may be worn with a dark suit. No are worn with the belt. Suspenders Suspenders worn with a dark suit must be narrow and of the same colour as the suit. The socks are black, knee-high and made of wool or mercerised cotton. Shoes The shoes are black, laced and thin-soled. A wrist-watch may be worn with a dark suit. Jewellery No unnecessary jewellery (e.g. , bracelets or piercings) are worn with a dark suit. A wedding band is, naturally, allowed. Alumni rings are worn on the left index finger. No tie clips may be worn. Less is more.

Pocket No pocket handkerchiefs are worn to academic handkerchiefs events.

9 Women’s Semi-Formal Daytime Attire MARIMEKKO / RITVA FALLA MARIMEKKO / RITVA MARIMEKKO / JUKKA RINTALA

10 When men wear a dark suit, women PUBLIC DEFENCE REHEARSAL DINNER/ CONFERMENT may wear a sophisticated, festive dress, OF A DISSERTATION SWORD CEREMONY a delicate two-piece suit with a knee- - recipient of (honorary) - female companion of length skirt, or an elegant pantsuit. doctorate the recipient - female companion of - invited guest Classic semi-formal daytime attire may the recipient consist of a black or shell - invited guest paired with a jacket or made from the same fabric. The hemline may be mini or full-length, depending on Colour Dark or darkish, solid. Any. Black. the person and the nature of the occasion. Matching the attire, dark Sheer, elegant, and of a Solid black or nude, Semi-formal daytime attire may be of or nude. solid colour matching sheer, high-quality. any colour. However, it should always the attire or shoes. have a high neckline and full-length sleeves. Shoes Simple, black pumps. Elegant pumps, colour Simple, black pumps. The overall appearance should be matching the attire. sophisticated, conservative and balanced. Watch A simple, unassuming A jewellery watch. A simple, unassuming wrist-watch. wrist-watch. In conferment ceremonies, women always wear a black attire with full- length sleeves and a high neckline. Jewellery Unassuming jewellery. Fine jewellery with a Unassuming jewellery. A simple pearl or gold solid-colour attire. A simple pearl or gold . Modest jewellery with necklace. a patterned attire.

Handbag A simple, black, A small clutch or elegant, A simple, black, shoulder-held purse. shoulder-held purse, shoulder-held purse. preferably matching the shoes.

Gloves Gloves are not necessary. Gloves are not necessary. Gloves are not necessary.

Outerwear A black coat or . A wrap is also A black coat or wrap. appropriate.

Hat No hat. No hat. No hat.

11 12 Tie White

OY TURO TAILOR AB Shirt withawingtipcollar. JOUSIPAITA OY Men's formal evening wear is white tie, which is worn after 18:00 in the Shirt The shirt is white and has a starched wingtip collar; the wingtips are folded downward evening. Academic festivities are an and under the bowtie. The front of the shirt dons a white starched dickey made from exception to the rule: they may require the same fabric as the vest, tie and cuffs. The shirt is fastened with pearly white or white tie also in the daytime. gold studs. The cuffs are fastened with cufflinks which match the studs. One to two centimetres of the cuffs should show from under the sleeves. The tailcoat is made of wool or a wool blend. The lapels and the outer seams Bowtie The bowtie is white; black is reserved for waiters. of the trousers are of silk. At academic events, tails are always black. At other Vest The vest is either single- or double-breasted. All of the buttons are fastened. events, tails may also be midnight blue, The vest is open-backed with a rubber band adjuster at the back of the neck grey or even white. to adjust the length of the front panels. They may be as long as the front panels of the tailcoat, or at most one or two centimetres longer, and aligned with the The garments should be put on in tailcoat. A black vest should not be longer than the tailcoat. The shirt should the following : not show from between the vest and the waistband of the trousers. A white vest is fastened with three studs similar to those of the shirt. A black 1. socks, trousers vest is fastened with black studs. Black vest: public defence of a dissertation, 2. shoes conferment ceremony and church service.White vest: karonkka banquet if 3. shirt, studs, cufflinks ladies present, conferment banquet and ball if ladies present. 4. suspenders 5. bowtie 6. vest Overcoat In the winter, the appropriate choice is a dark, wool ulster overcoat that covers 7. tailcoat the tails. Also a velvet or wool may be used. Other seasons call for a dark . Gloves White kid gloves or white gloves made of a knitted cotton or synthetic fabric.

Scarf The scarf is made of white silk. It is folded under the lapels of the overcoat. If worn with a cloak, one end may be flung over the shoulder. Decorations Please see “Decorations”.

If it rains, a transparent or rain- may be worn to the academic procession. must be black.

13 White Tie I Accessories

BOWTIE KNOT CARE ATTACHMENT OF SWORD

White tie is which is Cross-section of the stud seldom worn, and it should be cleaned after each use. This extends its lifespan. The instructions for care should be observed. The tailcoat and trousers are brushed and aired out. Remember to empty the pockets. Waistband of the trousers from the reverse Hang the tailcoat on a wide hanger, and hang the trousers folded in two. Then place the suit in a transparent garment bag. The is washed after use, preferably at a dry cleaner’s. Waistband of the trousers from the outside The vest is neatly folded into its original box. Patent leather shoes are oiled after use and kept in their original box or on a rack. Place lasts inside the shoes to maintain their shape.

Sword attachment fastened onto the waistband

14 Further Information Belt No belt is worn with the trousers. - The tails of the tailcoat are tucked aside Suspenders If suspenders are used, they must be white and worn under the vest. Suspenders when seated. are recommended, because when they are attached in alignment with the - The suit must fit properly. crease, they support the trousers. - The tails should fall below the knees. Socks Socks are black and reach at least the mid-calf, preferably the knee, fully covering - The front panels of the tailcoat should the ankle. The recommended fabric is silk. fall just below the . - The legs of the trousers should reach Shoes At daytime events, the shoes are of matte leather and have thin soles. The the of the shoe heel. A white shoes must always be polished and in good condition. In the evening after handkerchief is kept in one of the 18:00, patent leather shoes are worn. trouser pockets. - The tailcoat should not be removed Watch The appropriate choice of watch is a , which is placed in the left during the festivities. pocket of the trousers. The chain is attached to the waistband, to the immediate left of the suspenders. The watch may also be kept in the left pocket of the - Men’s hair should be clean and neatly vest, in which case the chain is attached loosely to the lowest button-hole of cut. Long hair is tied back with a black the vest. or otherwise unassuming hair-band or barrette. Jewellery No unnecessary jewellery (i.e. earrings, bracelets, piercings) should be worn - Cellular phones are not part of formal with white tie. A wedding band is, naturally, allowed. Alumni rings are worn on wear. the left index finger. - For fastening the doctoral sword, please see the figure on the previous page. Handkerchief No pocket handkerchiefs are worn to academic events. On other occasions, a white pocket square made of silk or cotton cambric is appropriate.

Wallet If it is necessary to carry a wallet, it should be placed in the breast pocket. It should not, however, create a bulge in the coat. The wallet should not be placed in the back pocket of the trousers.

Doctoral hat Holders of a doctoral degree wear a doctoral hat to the conferment. At the conferment banquet and ball, the hat is checked with outerwear.

Doctoral sword No sword is worn to the banquet and ball.

15 16 Suit Women’sDark I Doctoral Candidate Doctoral I

MARIMEKKO / RITVA FALLA Women wear a black suit with full- length sleeves and a high neckline to Hosiery Sheer and solid black. the defence of their dissertation. The suit may consist of a jacket and short Shoes Black, simple pumps. skirt (not mini), or it may be an elegant pantsuit. The suit is paired with a black Watch An unassuming, simple wrist-watch, preferably gold. or white top with a high neckline.

The custos may decide the attire and Jewellery No ornate jewellery. A simple pearl or gold necklace. The custos may decide on accessories of the candidate. the use of jewellery. A small and unassuming black purse.

17 Women’s Formal Daytime Attire I Doctor (Conferment and Church Service)

18 Woman degree recipients wear a full-length black dress with full-length sleeves and a closed, high neckline to the conferment. Pantsuits are not Hosiery Solid black, sheer, elegant. appropriate for the occasion. Shoes Simple, black pumps. The style of the dress should be classic and timeless. The fabric should be elegant (velvet, wool), but not too festive, glossy or transparent. No fur Watch No watch. should be worn. If the degree recipient also receives a sword, the dress should be accessorised with a suitable belt. The sword may, however, also Jewellery Preferably no jewellery (possibly a simple pearl or gold be carried in hand. necklace). Handbag No handbag. Belt A belt matching the attire, possibly of the same fabric as the dress, which can carry the weight of the sword. Gloves No gloves. Outerwear A simple, black coat or wrap. If it rains, a transparent raincoat or rain-cape may be worn to the academic procession. Umbrellas must be black. Decorations Please see “Decorations”.

19 Formal Evening Gown DESIGNER / JANNE RENVALL PHOTO / ULLAMAIJA HÄNNINEN DESIGNER / JANNE RENVALL PHOTO / ULLAMAIJA HÄNNINEN

20 Ladies’ formal evening wear is determined by the man’s attire. Women’s equivalent for white tie is Hosiery High-quality, sheer hosiery with sheen (containing lycra) goes with an a long evening gown. It is full-length and worn evening gown. As a rule, the more formal the event, the sheerer the after 18:00 in the evening. texture. The colour of the hosiery depends on the dress. Silver or gold shimmer brings a festive touch to the attire, whereas nude is always The dress must fit properly and be made of a a safe choice. festive fabric, such as silk, satin, taffeta, silk velvet, chiffon or brocade. Stretching woven velvet fabrics Shoes The shoes should be elegant and delicate. They may be of suede, or or inexpensive synthetic fabrics are not an gold, silver or bronze coloured leather, or a fabric that matches the appropriate choice for an evening gown. The gown gown. Open-toed shoes, sling-backs, or mules may be worn may have an open neckline or back, narrow with a gown made of a fine fabric. The shoes may also be embellished shoulder straps (or no straps), long slits or a train. with glitter, crystal, beads, etc., depending on the gown. Festive fine jewellery, which may be too ornate for other , may be worn with an evening Watch No watch is worn with an evening gown, with the exception of jewellery gown. Evening are always worn with the . appropriate . Jewellery Fine jewellery or a jewellery watch may be worn with an evening gown. An evening gown may be donned in any colour, The necklace must follow the neckline of the gown. even by doctoral degree recipients. Purse The purse should be a small, elegant clutch (i.e. no shoulder strap) Appropriate outerwear includes , , furs, which matches the attire. The clutch is not held while dancing. During wraps or stoles. dinner, the clutch may be placed on the table, left of the place setting. Otherwise, the purse is never placed on the table or the floor. The appropriate place for it is on the seat, close to the back rest. Gloves Gloves may be worn with a or a dress with narrow straps. They may be white, black, or the colour of the dress. They are removed for dinner. Care Handkerchiefs Handkerchiefs are kept in the purse. An evening gown should be cleaned by a professional according to its care instructions as Scents Perfumes are a part of festive occasions. However, they should be used soon as possible after use. The gown should be conservatively. Other guests may find strong scents offensive. stored out of direct light in a breathable garment cover or storage box. Hair style An evening gown requires a festive hair style. Depending on the style, the hair may be adorned with barrettes, combs, flowers and other hair accessories (, jewel , etc.). Doctoral hat At the conferment banquet and ball, doctoral are checked with outerwear. Doctoral sword Doctoral swords are not worn to the banquet and ball.

21 Men’s Informal Suit OY TURO TAILOR AB OY TURO TAILOR AB OY TURO TAILOR

22 A men’s informal suit is light-coloured. Both the jacket and the trousers are made from the same, fine fabric. The suit should not Socks The socks must be appropriate for the occasion and be heavy in weight or appearance. match the suit. The suit may be accessorised according to the occasion. The shirt Shoes The design and colour of the shoes must go with the and tie should suit the overall attire. The design and colour of the suit. The shoes must be in good condition, and they shoes and socks should go with the suit. For instance, a patterned may be with or without laces. No sandals. suit calls for a solid shirt. A light-coloured jacket paired with matching trousers, i.e. so-called separates, may also be worn instead of a suit. Watch A watch designed for everyday use may be worn with an informal suit. Jewellery Jewellery may we worn with an informal suit according to preference. A tie clip is recommended.

Hat Those who have a student cap may use it.

23 Women’s Informal Suit MARIMEKKO / RITVA FALLA MARIMEKKO / RITVA POLA OY

24 When men wear an informal suit, also ladies may wear one. A women's informal suit is of a light colour. It may be a suit with a Hosiery High-quality hosiery that matches the suit. skirt, a pantsuit, separates, or a dress paired with a blazer. The attire may also be short-sleeved. The suit does not need to be festive Shoes The colour of the shoes should go with the suit. or made of a festive fabric. The outfit may be accessorised according to taste. Overall, the attire should be neat, elegant and Watch A watch designed for everyday use may be worn with suited to the season. an informal suit. Jewellery No fine jewellery is worn with an informal suit. Handbag The suit may be accessorised with an appropriate shoulder-held purse. Hat Those who have a student cap may use it. Outerwear Appropriate outerwear includes a light summer coat, wrap, etc.

25 Decorations

Women wear and commemorative crosses of orders halfway between the left armhole and the centre of the torso, approximately ten centimetres down from the shoulder seam. Other decorations may be worn simultaneously. Women may wear either full-size or miniature decorations. Decorations set certain requirements for the formal gown, which should be taken into account when selecting the gown. The fabric should be strong enough to hold the decorations in place. Decorations should not touch exposed skin.

26 Orders’ cross-shaped decorations and medals that hang from a ribbon are worn on the left front panel of a tailcoat. The upper edge of the ribbon should be approximately two centimetres above the breast pocket. They must all be attached to the same fastener to keep them aligned. If there is only one, it should be attached halfway between the sleeve seam and the centre of the torso. Either full-size or miniature decorations may be worn with white tie – this is mentioned in the invitation. No pocket handkerchief is worn with decorations.

27 Doctoral Hat PHOTO: LUT

28 Doctors from Lappeenranta University of Technology – Doctors of Science in Technology or Economics and Business Administration and Doctors of Degree Hat Philosophy – receive a black doctoral hat. The following table also lists the colours of hats received from other faculties. Finnish doctoral hats are made of silk and range in six different shades. In addition, there are 22 Doctor of Science (Technology) Black, bent brim different metallic lyres for the hat. Moreover, Doctors of Theology have a hatband, and Doctors of Arts (Art and Design) have a decorative stone Doctor of Science (Economics and Black instead of a lyre. The colour of the hat varies according to the faculty. Business Administration) At Lappeenranta University of Technology, the doctoral regalia are the Doctor of Philosophy Black doctoral hat and sword. They are passed on from generation to generation. They may be either displayed or stored appropriately. The proper way to Doctor of Education Black store the hat and sword is in their original boxes. They should be handled with care and due respect. Only the recipients of the regalia are allowed Doctor of Medicine Green to wear them. Doctor of Dental Science (Turku ) Green (black) Doctor of Science (Health Care) Black Doctor of Arts (Art and Design) Bright blue Doctor of Theology (Åbo Akademi Purple (black) University) Doctor of Law Burgundy Doctor of Sport Sciences Dark blue

In addition to a hat, Doctors of Science in Economics and Business Administration and Doctors of Philosophy also receive a sword.

29 Marshals

30 The marshal’s is made of silk or a silk-like fabric, and it is usually blue and white. Its width is approximately 25-35 cm and its length 2.5 m. The sash is never worn in contact with exposed skin.

Men:

Men wear a dark suit (please see “Dark Suit”). The sash is worn over Hat Marshals wear a student cap. the right shoulder and under the left arm.

Women:

Women wear a festive suit (please see “Women’s Semi-Formal Hosiery Black, sheer, high-quality hosiery. Colour: solid or nude. Daytime Attire”), which is black (or dark blue). The skirt is at least knee-length and the neckline is high. A white top is worn under the Shoes Simple, black pumps. jacket. The sash is worn over the left shoulder and under the right arm. Watch An unassuming, simple wrist-watch. Jewellery No ornate jewellery. A simple pearl or gold necklace may be worn. Hat Marshals wear a student cap. Decorations No decorations are worn with the marshal's sash.

31 Author: Pirjo Saravirta References are available from the author: [email protected] Graphic design: Tarmo Lavikka