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520 Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS don for setting giddily high writing standards, Many thanks to the travelers who used to fearless leaders Brice Gosnell and Heather the last edition and wrote to us with help- Dickson at Lonely Planet, to the Sanchez ful hints, useful advice and interesting Writers’ Grotto, and above all to Marco Flavio anecdotes: Marinucci, whose kindness and bracing Björn Ahrens, Diana Frattali-Moreno, Michael espresso make everything possible. Kelly Jr, Pauline Ondei, Cynthia C Rignanese Nate Cavalieri and Mark & Courtney Tate. Thanks to my partner Florence Chien for joining my research travels through North- AUTHOR THANKS ern and giving a careful read to Sara Benson this text. Thanks to Ben Calhoun and Catrin Without everyone at Lonely Planet and all of my Einhorn for sheltering me while this text was co-authors, this book would never have seen completed. Thanks also to the lovely people such smooth sailing. I’m grateful to everyone at Lonely Planet and particularly for the en- I met on the road who shared their local ex- thusiasm of commissioning editor and men- pertise and tips. Big thanks to all of my coastal tor Suki Gear. friends and family in the Golden State. PS to Bridget Gleeson MSC Jr: Are you ready for more midnight drives and moonlight hikes along the Big Sur coast? Thank you to my lovely sister Molly, my brother-in-law Germán, and my dear friend Andrew Bender Starla Silver for their hospitality when I’m Suki Gear, Alison Lyall and Sam Benson for passing through California – and to all their the opportunity and their good cheer and friends for their endless dining and drinking advice. Thanks also to Adrienne Costanzo, suggestions. Thanks, as well, to my mother Karen Grant, Corey Hutchison and Bella Li for Margaret, who always serves as my faithful their assistance on this book. travel companion. Alison Bing Beth Kohn Suki Gear and Sam Benson, whose guidance, All the usual suspects get thanks again, es- insight and support make any tricky mental pecially the fabulous multitasking Suki Gear backbend possible. Shameless California and the dynamo known as Sam Benson. Cali- bear hugs to John Vlahides and Robert Lan- fornia cohorts and experts this time around BEHIND THE SCENES 521

Virginia Moreno, Moreno, Virginia Sasha Baskett, Baskett, Sasha bloom along owers fl Holly Alexander, Jackey Coyle, Coyle, Jackey Holly Alexander, Bella Li Anglin, Elizabeth Research Image Internal Dalbesio Sabrina to Thanks Assisting Editors Assisting Layout Assisting Designers Research Cover Naomi Parker Wibowo Rusli Wibowo Ellemor, Brigitte Boland, Jessica Trent Kirk, Yvonne Evans, Ryan Diana Rawlings, Kirsten Paton, Walker Gerard Holdt, Von Hydrology and Earth System

11, 1633 44. 1633 11, cation’, cation’,

fi Annelies Annelies

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS MC, Peel from map data adapted Climate ‘Updated (2007) TA & McMahon BL Finlayson Climate the Köppen-Geiger of Map World Classi Sciences, Cover Cover photograph: Wild Greenwood/ Kodiak coastline, the California in this the images of Many Images. Getty Lonely from licensing for available guide are www.lonelyplanetimages.com. Images: Planet Angela Tinson Angela Valentina Valentina Chris Girdler Carlos Solarte Carlos Shahara Ahmed, Alison Lyall Alison Lyall Ahmed, Shahara Susie Ashworth, Justin Justin Flynn Susie Ashworth, Kremenchutskaya Senior Editor Editor Senior Cartographers Managing Layout Managing Designer Coordinating Editors Coordinating Coordinating Cartographer Layout Coordinating Designer Editors Managing

Anna Metcalfe Mertens,

Coastal Coastal was coordinated by by coordinated was I owe heartfelt thanks to my commissioning commissioning my to thanks heartfelt owe I Ben- Sam and co-authors, Gear, Suki editor, help wonderful their for Bing, Alison and son Brady, Kate dispositions. and always-sunny Clarke, Kevin Soehnlein, Karl Kahn, Steven me kept – you Young Adam and Aloise Jim seemed and laughing when things upbeat thank the readers: you, And to impossible. Wine the guide to me be your letting for you will. you I know fun. Have Country. John A Vlahides included Agent ‘Pedal-to-the-metal’ Moller, Moller, ‘Pedal-to-the-metal’ Agent included Jenny Thomson, Oakland’ ‘Hella Loves Felix and Dutton Scientist’ ‘The Dillon G, ‘Stink’ the helpful plus all Brashares, ‘Wawona’ Julia rangers. park and patient Commissioning Editor Commissioning This Book This This 4th edition of California This guidebook was Benson. Sara by and written researched also Nate Bing, Alison Bender, Andrew Beth Gleeson, Bridget Cavalieri, Vlahides. Kohn and John A commis- This guidebook was Oakland Planet’s sioned in Lonely the by and produced office, following: Suki Gear 526 Año Nuevo State Reserve 149-50 Point Reyes National Seashore aquariums 41 13, 120, 13 Aquarium of the Pacific 363 Red Rock Beach 116 Birch Aquarium 441-2 San Buenaventura State Beach 339 California Academy of Sciences 66 San Diego 422 Los Angeles 23 San Pedro 363 Monterey Bay 23, 278-9, 14 Santa Barbara 330-1 SeaWorld 438-9 Santa Cruz 270, 271, 157 Arcata 254-7 Santa Monica 361 architecture 347, 491-3 Seal Beach 12, 22, 408-9, 12 area codes 19, 510 Solana Beach 460 art galleries, see museums & Sonoma Coast State Beach 217-18 A galleries Stinson Beach 116-17 accommodations 504-6, see also Asian Art Museum 53 William Randolph Hearst Memorial individual locations ATMs 509 State Beach 300 activities 30-9, see also individual Avenue of the Giants 247-8 Windansea Beach 441 activities Avila Beach 317-20 bears 495 air quality 502 beer 481, see also breweries air travel 513-14, 515 B Benbow Lake 243 airports 514 B&Bs 504-5 Berkeley 129-39, 132 Alcatraz 71 Balboa Island 412 accommodations 133-4 amusement parks 41, see also drinking 135-6 Balboa Park 426-32, 434 Disneyland Resort entertainment 136-7 Bay Area 44, 100-50, 102 Balboa Fun Zone 411 food 134-5 accommodations 100, 139 Belmont Park 439 shopping 137 climate 100 Children’s Fairyland 124 sights 130-3 food 100, 149, 477 Great America 142 tourist information 137 highlights 102 Knott’s Berry Farm 407 travel to/from 137-8 travel seasons 100 Legoland California 462 travel within 138-9 travel within 101 Raging Waters 142 bicycling, see cycling beaches 20, 30-1, 41 Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk 13, Big Bear Lake 390-2 269, 13 Agate Beach 117 Big Sur 6, 291-9, 292, 7 Santa Monica Pier 361 Avila Beach 317 accommodations 296-7 SeaWorld 438-9 Baker Beach 60 food 297-8 Six Flags Hurricane Harbor 389 Bowling Ball Beach 220 sights 293-6 Six Flags Magic Mountain 389 Carmel Beach 290 tourist information 299 Traintown 187 420 travel to/from 299 Universal Studios Hollywood 364-5 Glass Beach 229-30 travel within 295, 299 Anacapa Island 337 Gray Whale Cove State Beach 146 birds 495-6 Anaheim 395-407 bird-watching accommodations 402-4 Huntington Beach 409, 28 Clear Lake 234 activities 396-402 Jalama Beach County Park 323 Laguna Beach 415-19, 416 National Estuarine drinking 405 Research Reserve 278 Long Beach 363-4 food 404-5 Morro Bay 304 Los Angeles 342 shopping 405 Pescadero 148 Malibu 360-1, 153 sights 396-402 Point Arena 221-2 Mission Beach 439 tourist information 406 Bixby Bridge 293 Muir Beach 116 travel to/from 407 blues music 488 Newport Beach 411-15, 412 travel within 406-7 boat travel 515-16 Ocean Beach County Park 323 Anchor Bay 220-1 Bodega Bay 215-17 Ocean Beach, San Diego 437 Anderson Valley 236-7 Bolinas 22, 117, 17 Ocean Beach, San Francisco 67 Angel Island 111 books 468 Pacific Beach 439 animals 494-6 border crossings 514 146 animation 490 Bowers Museum of Cultural Art 407-8 Partington Cove 294-5 breweries 265 Anderson Valley 236 000 Map pages Pfeiffer Beach 294 Arcata 256 000 Photo pages Pismo Beach 320-2 Berkeley 136 INDEX B-D 527 see also also see , 23 152 safety cooking courses cooking see see 8 , Park 262-3 Park 162-3 398 mountain-biking accommodations 393, 402-4 393, accommodations 393 climate drinking 405 405 401, entertainment 405 396, FASTPASS 404 393, food 394 highlights 406 resources internet shopping 405 396-402 sights 406 information tourist 406 395, to/from travel 406-7 within 395, travel 282 Monterey 443-4 Diego San Angel Island 111 Angel 208 Healdsburg Angeles 367 Los Mendocino 225 282 Monterey 124 Oakland 67 Francisco San 331 Barbara Santa 109 105, Sausalito 187 Sonoma Angeles 369 Los wine country & Sonoma Napa 445 Diego San 326 wine country Barbara Santa D Dana Point 420 Point Dana dangers, James 311 Dean, Mar 457-60, Del State Redwoods Coast Norte Del Slide 146 Devil’s 510 dialing codes with 510-11 travelers disabilities, 490 Walt Disney, 397-400 park Disneyland 395-407, 45, 8, Resort Disneyland Coronado 436-7 Coronado 415 Mesa Costa 18 costs courses, Crescent City 263-4 Crescent 482-7 culture 19 currency 506 regulations customs 519, 515, 37-9, cycling Disney’s California Adventure 400-1 Adventure California Disney’s diving 33-4 cycling tours cycling , 268 individual individual

churches & churches 318 , see see also see 15 280 , Park 308 Park 359 346 cathedrals Angels 346 Angels 53 Church Balconies Cave 309 Cave Balconies 309 Gulch Cave Bear 441 Store Cave Memorial Memories of Garden 355 Cemetery Forever Hollywood 124 Cemetery View Mountain Park Memorial Village Westwood regions 336-8, 336-8, 276-7 Los Angeles Angeles 368-9 Los 428 Diego San 95 Francisco San Jose San 142 331 Barbara Santa 177 wineries 142 Joseph St of Basilica Cathedral the Lady of Our of Cathedral 131 Scientist Christ of Church First Methodist Glide Memorial United 57 Cathedral Grace 55 Church Old St Mary’s Chapel 281 Presidio Royal 56 Church & Paul Peter Saints Chapel 362 Wayfarers accommodations 267 accommodations 267 climate 478-9 267, food 268 highlights 267 seasons travel Carlsbad 461-3 Carlsbad 288-91 Carmel-by-the-Sea 317 National Monument Plain Carrizo 389-90 Island Catalina Angels the Lady of Our of Cathedral cathedrals, caves 302-3 Cayucos 510 19, phones cell cemeteries 267-340, 45, Coast Central climate change 513 change climate 58 Tower Coit 296 condors 476-7 236, 208, 187, courses cooking Chez Panisse 135 Panisse Chez with 40-3 travel children, & cathedrals churches 55-6 Bookstore City Lights Buddhas 240 Thousand Ten City of 233-6 Lake Clear 18, climate Channel Islands National Park 15, 15, Channel Islands National Park 36 Forest 241 261 Park Anderson Valley 237 Valley Anderson 392 Lake Big Bear Big Sur 297 216 Bay Bodega 462 Carlsbad Island 390 Catalina 338 Channel Islands National Park 219 Park Historic State Ross Fort Gualala 221 248 Park State Humboldt Redwoods State Demonstration Jackson Klamath 262 247 Coast Lost Malibu 372 222 Manchester 103 Marin Headlands 285 Monterey 304 Bay Morro 413-14 Beach Newport 125 Oakland National Monument 309 Pinnacles 321 Pismo Beach 120 National Seashore Reyes Point State Redwoods Creek Prairie Jose San 143 301 Park Simeon State San Cruz 273 Santa 206 Rosa Santa 217-18 Beach State Coast Sonoma 223 Park State Damme Van Eureka 253 204 Guerneville 146 Bay Half Moon 229 312 Robles Paso 91 Francisco San Luis Obispo 315 San 335 Barbara Santa 249 Scotia 113 Blvd Drake Sir Francis Ukiah 238 339 Ventura C California Academy of Sciences 66 Sciences of Academy California 177-81 22, Calistoga Cambria 301-2 505, camping Cannery Row 279 Cannery Row 277-8 Capitola 516-19 514, 19, travel car 460-1 Cardiff-by-the-Sea budgeting 18 budgeting 407 Buena Park 516 514-15, bus travel 506 hours business 528 drinks 479-81, see also wine Halloween 370 Gilroy 306 driver’s licenses 516 Kinetic Grand Championship GLBT History Museum 64 driving, see car travel 24, 255 Glen Ellen 191-3 Litquake 72 gold rush 468, 471-2 Mendocino Whale Festival 24, 225 Golden Gate Bridge 11, 51, 11, 154 E Monterey Jazz Festival 283 earthquakes 138, 497, 498 Golden Gate Park 67 Old Spanish Fiesta Days 25, 332 economy 467 golf Pageant of the Masters 25, 418 electricity 505, 507 La Jolla 442 INDEX Parade of Lights 25, 445 elephant seals 149, 299, 494-5 Morro Bay 304 Pride Month 71-2 Elk 223 Pacific Grove 288 Reggae on the River 25, 244 elk 495 Grammy Museum 350 D-H Russian River Jazz & Blues Festival Gray Whale Cove 146 Encinitas 461 202 Great Depression 473 environmental issues 337, 466, 501-2 San Diego County Fair 445 Griffith Park 354-5 Eureka 251-4 San Francisco International Film Gualala 220-1 events, see festivals & events Festival 71 Guerneville 201-5 exchange rates 19 Santa Barbara International Film Festival 332 F SF Shakespeare Fest 72 H farm tours 308 Steinbeck Festival 308 Half Moon Bay 147 farmers markets Tournament of Roses 24, 369 Healdsburg 207-11 Arcata 256 film festivals 71, 332, 490 health 508 Avila Beach 319 film industry & production 354, 10, 299-300, 11 364-5, 489-90 Eureka 252 Henry Miller Library 294 films 216, 466, 489-90 Ferndale 250 Highway 1 213-32, 269-306 fishing Fort Bragg 230 Highway 101 233-42, 306-40 Avila Beach 319 Gualala 220 Highway 154 325-6 Big Bear Lake 391 Guernville 201 hiking 21, 35-7 Bodega Bay 215 Healdsburg 208 Big Bear Lake 391 Fort Bragg 230 Los Angeles 377 Bolinas 117 Guerneville 202 Oakland 123 Channel Islands National Park 338 Morro Bay 304 San Diego 450 Jackson Demonstration State San Diego 444 Forest 241 San Francisco 80 Santa Cruz 271 Los Angeles 367-8 San Luis Obispo 313 flora 34, 496, see also redwood trees Lost Coast 245 Santa Barbara 335 food 9, 20, 475-81, 507, 9, see also Marin Headlands 103 Santa Cruz 275 individual locations Mill Valley 111 Santa Rosa 206 cooking courses 187, 208, 236, Mt Tamalpais State Park 114 Sebastopol 198 476-7 Muir Woods National Monument St Helena 175 festivals 477 116 Ukiah 239 food trucks 373, 478 Oakland 124 Ferndale 22, 249-50 Fort Bragg 229-32 Point Reyes National Seashore 120 Ferry Building 51-2, 21 Fort Ross State Historic Park 218-19 Prairie Creek Redwoods State Festival of Arts 25, 418 Foxen Canyon 322-3 Park 261 festivals & events 24-5, 477 San Diego 444 Bay to Breakers 24, 71 Sausalito 109 Carnaval 71 G galleries, see museums & galleries hip-hop 489 Cherry Blossom Festival 71 Garberville 244 historic sites 23 Chinese New Year 71 gay travelers 507-8 history 468-74 Comic-Con International 445 festivals 24-5, 71-2 holidays 509 Diá de los Muertos 25, 72 Los Angeles 379 Hollywood 351-5, 352 Earthfair 445 marriage 485 homelessness 484-5 Festival of Arts 25, 418 museum 64 Hopland 233 Festival of the Swallows 24, 419 San Diego 454 horseback riding Folsom Street Fair 72 San Francisco 90 Bodega Bay 215 geography 498-500 Guerneville 202 Los Angeles 368 000 Map pages geology 498-500 Marin Headlands 103 000 Photo pages Getty Center 358 Getty Villa 361 Point Reyes National Seashore 120 INDEX H-M 529 16 , 106-7 366 , 12 , 102 224 366 12 438 22 153 Alcalá 433-5 Alcalá Park Ecological Reserve 441 Reserve Ecological Park Art 357 355 La Purísima Mission 322 Mission La Purísima de Diego San Basilica Mission 61 Delores Mission 309 Padua De Antonio San Mission 339 Buenaventura San Mission accommodations 100 accommodations 100 climate drinking 114 118 100, food 102 highlights 100 seasons travel within 121 travel 146 Marine Reserve Fitzgerald 219 Marine Reserve Cove Gerstle Jolla Underwater Diego-La San Angeles 350 Los 171 Napa 126 Oakland Jose San 142 St Helena 176 planning 342 planning 361, Monica Santa 383-5 shopping 343-67 sights 386 information tourist 369 tours 341 seasons travel 386-7 to/from travel 387-8 343, within 342, travel 368, 362, 16, Beach Venice M Mill Valley 110-12 Mill Valley Henry 294 Miller, 437-9, Bay Mission 439 Beach Mission missions MacKerricher State Park 232 Park State MacKerricher Madonna Inn 306, 397 USA Main Street, Malibu 360-1, 222 Manchester 101-21, 44, Marin County Los Angeles County Museum of of Museum County Angeles Los Gardens & Botanical Zoo Angeles Los 245-7, 12, Coast Lost 490 George Lucas, Marin Headlands 101-4 Marin Headlands marine reserves markets 147 Mavericks 295 Falls McWay 505 measures 223-8, Mendocino 12, , , 364 , 344-5 books 16 360-1 , , 416 22 352 440 358 see also see , 8 , 356-7 , 388 , Park 322 Park Area 246 Area 348-9 366 festivals 24-5, 71-2 24-5, festivals Angeles 379 Los 485 marriage 64 museum 454 Diego San 90 Francisco San 72 festivals internet access 386 access internet 386 342, resources internet accommodations 341, 370-3 341, accommodations 367-8 activities 341 climate 385 dangers drinking 378-81 386 services emergency 381-3 entertainment 369 festivals 479 373-8, 341, food 344-5 highlights 351-5, Hollywood Morro Bay 304 Bay Morro 124 Oakland 444 Diego San 67-9 Francisco San Simeon 300-1 San 331 Barbara Santa Cruz 271 Santa 105 Sausalito Madonna Inn 306, 461 Magic Carpet Ride statue 262 Mystery of Trees 143 House Mystery Winchester L La Jolla 16, 440-3, 440-3, Jolla 16, La 346 Artes y de Cultura La Plaza Historic State Mission La Purísima 415-19, Laguna Beach 264-5 Area Wildlife Earl Lake Mendocino 240 Lake 487 484, language 508-9 matters legal 242 Leggett 462 California Legoland 507-8 travelers lesbian 490-1, literature 408 Little Saigon 363-4 Beach Long 341-88, 45, 8, Angeles Los National Conservation Conservation National King Range 69 32-3, kiteboarding kitsch Klamath 261-2 407 Berry Farm Knott’s 28 29 , 27 , 26 155 152-3 265, 265, Refuge 250-1 Refuge 247-8, Anchor Bay 220 Anchor Bay Island 111 Angel Area 129 Bay 391 Lake Big Bear 338 Channel Islands National Park Eureka 252 202 Guerneville 208 Healdsburg 119 Inverness Mendocino 225 car rental 516 rental car 508 health 508 travel 515 cycling 507-8 travelers & lesbian gay 43 with children travel 511 with disabilities travelers 511-12 volunteering Avila Beach 317 Beach Avila 178 Calistoga 235 Lake Clear 295 Institute Esalen 240 Hot Springs Orr 300 Wilderness Ventana 239-40 Resort Springs Hot Vichy Mar 459 Del 173 Valley Napa K J I kayaking & canoeing 34, 282, 317 282, 34, & canoeing kayaking Jenner 218 139 Site John Muir National Historic 228-9 Reserve Jug Handle State 295 Park Burns State Julia Pfeiffer jazz music 488 Park State Jedediah Smith Redwoods immigration 485, 513 485, immigration insurance 508 access internet 19 resources internet 119 Inverness 26-9, itineraries Huntington Beach 409-11, 409-11, Beach Huntington hostels 505 hostels 20 & spas hot springs ballooning hot-air 505-6 hotels Wildlife National Humboldt Bay 260 Park State Humboldt Lagoons Park State Humboldt Redwoods 530 missions continued Bay Area Discovery Museum 105 San Diego Natural History Museum Mission San Juan Bautista 306 Beat Museum 56 430 Mission San Juan Capistrano 419 Bowers Museum of Cultural Art San Francisco Art Institute 57 Mission San Luis Obispo de 407-8 San Francisco Museum of Modern Tolosa 312 California Palace of the Legion of Art 60-1 Mission San Rafael Arcángel 113 Honour 65 San Jose Museum of Art 141 Mission Santa Barbara 327-9 Cartoon Art Museum 61 Santa Barbara Museum of Art 330 San Carlos Borroméo de Carmelo Catharine Clark Gallery 61 Seymour Marine Discovery Center

INDEX Mission 289-90 Charles M Schulz Museum 206 269 mobile phones 19, 510 Children’s Discovery Museum, San Sharpsteen Museum 177-8 Monarch butterflies 287, 320 Jose 142 Sonoma Valley Museum of Art 186

M-O money 19, 506, 509 Chinese Historical Society of Tinkum Museum of Art 431 Montaña de Oro State Park 305-6 America Museum 53 UC Berkeley Art Museum 130 Montara 146 Contemporary Jewish Museum 61 music 488-9 Creativity Explored 61 Monterey 14, 278-87, 284, 14 Exploratorium 58 accommodations 283-5 Folk Art International 52 N activities 281-2 Napa 168-72, 169 Getty Center 358 drinking 286 Napa Valley 10, 44, 163-82, 164, 10 Getty Villa 361 entertainment 286 national parks & reserves 499, 500, GLBT History Museum 64 festivals 282-3 see also state parks & reserves Grammy Museum 350 food 285-6 Channel Islands National Park 15, History Park 140-1 shopping 286-7 336-8, 15 Huntington Library 366 sights 278-81 Elkhorn Slough National Estuarine Karpeles Manuscript Library 330 tourist information 287 Research Reserve 278 La Plaza de Cultura y Artes 346 travel to/from 287 Humboldt Bay National Wildlife Los Angeles County Museum of travel within 287 Refuge 250-1 Art 357 King Range National Conservation Monterey Bay Aquarium 23, 278-9, 14 Luggage Store Gallery 53 Area 246 Monterey State Historic Park 23, 279 MACLA 142 Los Padres National Forest 295-6 Montgomery Woods State Reserve Mendocino Art Center 224 Redwood National & State Parks 240 MH de Young Memorial Museum 66 9, 260-1, 9 Morro Bay 303-5 Monterey Museum of Art 281 National Steinbeck Center 307 Moss Landing 278 Musée Mecanique 57 Native Americans 469 motels 505-6 Museum of Contemporary Art, La Newport Beach 411-15, 412 motorcycle travel 514, 516-19 Jolla 441 newspapers 505 mountain lions 495 Museum of Contemporary Art, Los Nicasio 118 mountain-biking 37-9, see also cycling Angeles 346 North Coast 45, 212-66, 214, 243, Big Bear Lake 391 Museum of Craft and Folk Art 61 258 Calistoga 178 Museum of Paleontology 130 accommodations 212 Marin Headlands 103 Museum of the African Diaspora 61 climate 212 Monterey 282 National Steinbeck Center 307 food 212, 478 Mt Tamalpais State Park 114-15 Natural History Museum of Los highlights 214 Prairie Creek Redwoods State Angeles County 351 travel seasons 212 Park 261 New Children’s Museum, San Diego travel within 213 Mt Diablo State Park 139 425-6 North County Coast 457-64, 458 Mt Tamalpais State Park 114 Norton Simon Museum 366 Muir Beach 116 Oakland Museum of California Muir, John 139 123-4 O Muir Woods National Monument Orange County Museum of Art 412 Oakland 121-9, 122 115-16 Pacific Asia Museum 366 accommodations 124-5 multiculturalism 485-6 Pacific Pinball Museum 127 activities 123-4 murals 492 Phoebe Hearst Museum of drinking 126-7 museums & galleries Anthropology 130 entertainment 127-8 Annenberg Space for Ren Brown Collection Gallery 215 food 125-6 Photography 359 Ronald Reagan Library & Museum sights 121-4 Asian Art Museum 53 369 tourist information 128 Rosicrucian Egyptian Museum 142 travel to/from 128-9 San Diego Air & Space Museum 000 Map pages 431 travel within 129 000 Photo pages San Diego Museum of Art 431 Oakland Museum of California 123-4 Oakville 174-5 INDEX O-S 531 , , 54 , 6-7 324 , 50 16 , 84-5 70 , 438 440 77 , 68 , 15 , 62-3 10 14 , , , Art 60-1 328 314 58-9 climate 421 climate 454 dangers 451-2 422, drinking 454 services emergency 452-3 entertainment 445 festivals 448-51 422, 421, food 423 highlights 454 access internet 422 resources internet 440-3, Jolla 16, La 437-9, Bay Mission planning 422 shopping 453-4 424-43 sights 455 information tourist 445 tours 455 to/from travel within 455-7 travel accommodations 332-3 accommodations 331-2 activities accommodations 48, 72-7 48, accommodations 67-9 activities 48 climate drinking 88-92 97 services emergency 92-5 entertainment 71-2 festivals 477 77-88, 48, food 50 highlights 97 access internet 98 78, 72, 49, resources internet shopping 95-7 51-67 sights 97 information tourist 48 seasons travel 98 to/from travel within 98-9 travel 69-71, tours walking San Francisco Museum of Modern of Museum Francisco San Jose San 140-5 419-20 Capistrano Juan San 312-17, 22, Luis Obispo 14, San Miguel 310 San Miguel Island 337 San 363 Pedro San 113-14 Rafael San Simeon 300-1 San Ana Santa 407-8 327-36, 15, 10, Barbara Santa San Diego Zoo 429-30 Zoo Diego San 429 23, Park Safari Zoo Diego San 364-5 Valley Fernando San 48-99, 44, 6, Francisco San , regions

427 154 , 194 redwood redwood 423 434 individual

see also see 158 , 9 13 see also see 9 , trees 261 260-1, 119-21, 119-21, 430-1 children 40-3 children 26-9 itineraries 24-5 18, seasons travel accommodations 421, 445-8 421, accommodations 443-5 activities 426-32, Park Balboa S R Point Arena Arena 221-2 Point 437 Loma Point 299 Blancas Piedras Point 120, Lighthouse Reyes Point plants 34, 496, 496, 34, plants redwood trees 201-2, 247-8 201-2, trees redwood 486 467, religion 243 Park State Grove Richardson 31 riptides chart 517 distance road 518-19 rules road 309 climbing rock music 489 rock 369 & Museum Library Reagan Ronald 193-211, area River Russian 174-5 Rutherford 518 travel RV 509-10 safety 307-9 Salinas 219 Park State Point Salt 254 Peninsula Samoa 421-57, 45, 9, Diego San Point Reyes Station 118-19 Station Reyes Point 34 oak poison 466 politics pop music 489 population 467 509 services postal Park State Redwoods Creek Prairie 71-2 Month Pride 509 public holidays punk music 489 505 radio music 489 rap 9, Parks National & State Redwood Pelican Beach State Park 265 Park State Beach Pelican 148-9 Pescadero 510 phonecards 493 photography 309 National Monument Pinnacles 320-2 Pismo Beach planning, 13, National Seashore Reyes Point 156 , 151 434 12 , 2 , Gardens 355 Gardens 205 229 Gardens 66 Gardens 394 Alamo Square 64-5 Alamo Square 426-32, Park Balboa Bartholomew Park 186-7 Park Bartholomew 131 Garden Rose Berkeley 66 Flowers of Conservatory 187 Gardens Cornerstone Field 59-60 Crissy 64 Park Delores 67 Park Golden Gate 354-5 Griffith Park 140-1 Park History 66-7 Garden Tea Japanese & Botanical Zoo Angeles Los Home & Gardens Luther Burbank Botanical Mendocino Coast 320 Grove Butterfly Monarch 287 Sanctuary Grove Monarch 131 Park People’s 330 Garden Botanic Barbara Santa & Botanical Arboretum Strybing 131 Park Tilden Regional 131 Garden Botanical UC accommodations 393 accommodations 393 climate 393 food 394 highlights 393 seasons travel 395 to/from travel within 395 travel P Pacific Beach 439-43 Beach Pacific 151-8, Highway Coast Pacific 287-8 Grove Pacific 127 Museum Pinball Pacific 146 Pacifica 418 25, the Masters of Pageant 493 painting 20 & gardens parks Occidental 199-211 Occidental 463-4 Oceanside Ojai 334 Olema 118 506 hours opening 408-9 Orange 393-420, 45, 12, County Orange Pasadena 365-7 Pasadena 310-12 Robles Paso 513 passports 259-60 Park State Point Patrick’s 510 payphones Orr Hot Springs 240 Hot Springs Orr 494 otters 532 Santa Barbara continued Scotia 248-9 Jug Handle State Reserve 228-9 drinking 335 scuba diving, see diving Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park entertainment 335 Sea Ranch 219-20 295 festivals 332 Seal Beach 12, 22, 408-9, 12 Kruse Rhododendron State Reserve 219 food 333-5 seals 494 La Purísima Mission State Historic shopping 336 SeaWorld 438-9 Park 322 sights 327-30 Sebastopol 197-9 MacKerricher State Park 232 tourist information 336 senior travelers 506

INDEX Mendocino Headlands State tours 332 Shelter Cove 246-7 Park 225 travel to/from 336 Sinkyone Wilderness State Park Montaña de Oro State Park 305-6 travel within 336 246

S Monterey State Historic Park Santa Barbara Island 337-8 Sir Francis Drake Blvd 112-13 23, 279 Santa Cruz 13, 269-77, 272, 13, 157 skiiing & snowboarding 391 Montgomery Woods State Reserve accommodations 271-4 smoking 509 240 drinking 275 snorkeling 33-4 304 entertainment 275 Solana Beach 460 Mt Diablo State Park 139 festivals 271 Solvang 22 Mt Tamalpais State Park 114 food 274-5 Sonoma 184-91, 188 Patrick’s Point State Park 259-60 shopping 275-6 accommodations 187-9 Pelican Beach State Park 265 sights 269-70 activities 187 Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park 294 tourist information 277 drinking 190-1 State Natural Reserve travel to/from 277 food 189-90 290 travel within 277 shopping 191 Point Sur State Historic Park Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk 13, sights 184-7 293-4 269, 13 tourist information 191 Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park 261 337 Sonoma Coast State Beach 217-18 Redwood National & State Parks Santa Cruz Mountains 277 Sonoma Valley 10, 44, 182-93, 184 9, 260-1, 9 Santa Monica 361, 366 soul music 488 Richardson Grove State Park 243 Santa Rita Hills 323 spas, see hot springs & spas Robert Louis Stevenson State Santa Rosa 205-7 sports 486-7 Park 181 Santa Rosa Island 337 St Helena 175-7 219 Santa Ynez Valley 325 state parks & reserves 19, 499, 500, San Juan Bautista State Historic Sausalito 17, 104-9, 17 see also national parks & reserves Park 307 scenic drives 22 294 Sinkyone Wilderness State Park 17-Mile Drive 289 Año Nuevo State Reserve 149-50 246 Avenue of the Giants 247-8 Armstrong Redwoods State Sonoma State Historic Park 185-6 Reserve 201-2 Carlsbad to Del Mar 460 Dunes State Park 264-5 Bale Grist Mill State Historic Coleman Valley Road 200 State Park 120 Park 181 Crystal Cove to Doheny State Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve Bolsa Chica State Ecological Beach 420 442 Reserve 409-10 Highway 84 147 223 Bothe-Napa Valley State Park 181 Mulholland Drive 370 Steinbeck, John 307, 308 148 Newton B Drury Senic Parkway Stinson Beach 116-17 113 261 Sunset Strip 356 Clear Lake State Park 234 Schwarzenegger, Arnold 474 surfing 31-2 413 science centers & research facilities Huntington Beach 409 Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Bodega Marine Laboratory & Los Angeles 368 Park 262-3 Reserve 215 Mavericks 147 El Presidio de Santa Barbara State California Science Center 351 Historic Park 329 Monterey 282 Chabot Space & Science Center 124 Fort Ross State Historic Park Newport Beach 412 Discovery Science Center 407 218-19 San Diego 443 Lawrence Hall of Science 132 307 Santa Cruz 270-1 SU Telonicher Marine Humboldt Lagoons State Park 260 Seal Beach 409 Laboratory 258 Humboldt Redwoods State Park swimming 30-1 247-8, 155 Big Bear Lake 391 Jack London State Historic Park 193 000 Map pages Doheny State Beach 420 Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Los Angeles 368 000 Photo pages Park 265, 152-3 Spring Lake 206 INDEX T-Z 533 15 , 324 155 10 , animals 160 see 290 442 159-211, 159-211, Año Nuevo State Reserve 149-50 Reserve State Año Nuevo Reserve Natural State Lobos Point Reserve Natural State Pines Torrey Eureka 251 Eureka Angeles 355 Los 429-30 23, Diego San tours 326, 333 326, tours Sonoma Valley 182-4 Valley Sonoma Ukiah 239 accommodations 159 accommodations 159 climate 205 159, food 160 highlights 162-3 tours 159 seasons travel 161 to/from travel within 161-2 travel 236 Valley Anderson 234 Lake Clear 313 Valley Edna Hopland 233 163-8 Valley Napa 310 Robles Paso 193-7 area River Russian 322-40, Barbara Santa Y Z Yountville 172-4 Yountville zoos 41 wildlife, wildlife, wildlife-watching 240-2 Willits 69 windsurfing 32-3, 479-81, 192, wine 21, Wine Country, Napa & Sonoma & Sonoma Napa Country, Wine WWII 468, 473 WWII 468, wine regions

70 16 individual

internet resources internet hiking see also see see see Sanctuary 255 Sanctuary 250-1 Refuge 442 regions Laguna Beach 417 Laguna Beach Angeles 369 Los 445 Diego San 69-71, Francisco San Bodega Bay 215 Bay Bodega 338 Channel Islands National Park 230 Bragg Fort Mendocino 225 282 Monterey 221 North Coast 120 National Seashore Reyes Point 444-5 Diego San 69 Francisco San 331 Barbara Santa Cruz 271 Santa Wildlife & Marsh Arcata 66 Sciences of Academy California Wildlife National Humboldt Bay 264-5 Area Wildlife Earl Lake 148 Reserve Marsh Pescadero 182 West Safari Reserve Natural State Pines Torrey 120 Elk Reserve Tule Santa Barbara 332 Barbara Santa W visas 19, 511 19, visas 511-12 volunteering walking, walking tours walking websites, websites, 505 weights 232 Westport 494 whales 35, 16, whale-watching reserves wildlife Walt Disney Concert Hall 346 Concert Disney Walt 501-2 water 18, weather 16 , 366 amusement parks amusement cycling tours, tours, cycling see hiking see see also see 489-90 walking tours walking film & TV studios 354 studios TV film & 333 wine 326, V U T 300 Wilderness Ventana 338-40 Ventura 239-40 Resort Hot Springs Vichy 505 video systems vacations 509 vacations 139-40 Vallejo 201 Ford Valley 223 Park State Damme Van 476 travelers vegan 476 travelers vegetarian 368, 362, 16, Beach Venice Ukiah 237-9 364-5 Hollywood Studios Universal 130 Berkeley California, of University Tiburon 109-10 Tiburon Tijuana 456 time 510 tipping 510 264-5 Park State Dunes Tolowa 510 information tourist 369 24, Roses of Tournament tours, 257-9 Trinidad 505 TV 363, 354, & production industry TV taxis 519 taxis 510 services telephone 463 Temecula theme parks, 519 515, travel train 24-5 18, seasons travel 496 247-8, 201-2, trees trekking, 534

These symbols will help you fi nd the listings you want: Look out for Sights Tours Drinking 1 T 6 these icons: r Beaches z Festivals & Events 3 Entertainment Our author’s o recommendation Activities Sleeping Shopping 2 4 7 No payment F required C Courses 5 Eating 8 Information/ Transport A green or S sustainable option These symbols give you the vital information for each listing: Our authors have nominated % Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access g Bus these places as demonstrating a strong commitment to h Opening Hours s Swimming Pool f Ferry sustainability – for example by p Parking v Vegetarian Selection m Metro supporting local communities n Nonsmoking E English-Language Menu b Subway and producers, operating in an a Air-Conditioning c Family-Friendly t London Tube environmentally friendly way, or supporting conservation i Internet Access # Pet-Friendly j Tram projects. d Train Reviews are organised by author preference.

Map Legend Sights Drinking Routes Geographic Beach Drinking Tollway Hut/Shelter Buddhist Cafe Freeway Lighthouse Castle Primary Lookout Entertainment Christian Secondary Mountain/Volcano Entertainment Hindu Tertiary Oasis Islamic Shopping Lane Park Jewish Shopping Unsealed Road Pass Monument Plaza/Mall Picnic Area Information Museum/Gallery Steps Waterfall Post Office Ruin Tunnel Tourist Information Hydrography Winery/Vineyard Pedestrian River/Creek Zoo Transport Overpass Intermittent River Other Sight Airport Walking Tour Swamp/Mangrove Border Crossing Walking Tour Activities, Courses Reef Bus Detour & Tours Path Canal Cable Car/ Diving/Snorkelling Water Funicular Boundaries Canoeing/Kayaking Cycling Dry/Salt/ International Skiing Ferry Intermittent Lake State/Province Glacier Surfing Metro Disputed Swimming/Pool Monorail Areas Regional/Suburb Walking Parking Beach/Desert Marine Park Windsurfing S-Bahn Cemetery Cliff Other Activity/ Taxi (Christian) Wall Cemetery (Other) Course/Tour Train/Railway Park/Forest Sleeping Tram Population Sportsground Sleeping Tube Station Capital (National) Sight (Building) Camping U-Bahn Capital Top Sight Other Transport (State/Province) Eating City/Large Town (Building) Eating Town/Village Bridget Gleeson Disneyland & Orange County, San Diego Though she travels all over Latin Ameri- ca to write about glaciers, penguins and giant turtles, the sunshine and sailboats of southern California always draw Bridget back to the USA. She covers food, wine, hotels and adventure travel for Afar, Budget Travel, Jetsetter, Mr & Mrs Smith and Delta Sky.

Read more about Bridget at: Beth Kohn lonelyplanet.com/members/bridgetgleeson Marin County & the Bay Area A lucky long-time resident of San Francisco, Beth lives to be playing outside or splashing in big puddles of water. For this guide, she hiked and biked Bay Area byways, lugged a bear canister along the John Muir Trail and selfl essly soaked in hot springs – for research purposes, of course. An author of Lonely Planet’s Yosemite, Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks and Mexico guides, you can see more of her work at www.bethkohn.com.

John A Vlahides Napa & Sonoma Wine Country John A Vlahides co-hosts the TV series Lonely Planet: Roads Less Travelled, screening on National Geographic Channels International. John studied cooking in Paris, with the same chefs who trained Julia Child, and is a former luxury-hotel concierge and member of Les Clefs d’Or, the international union of the world’s elite concierges. He lives in San Francisco, where he sings tenor with the San Francisco Symphony, and spends free time skiing the Sierra Nevada. For more, see johnvlahides.com and twitter.com/johnvlahides. Read more about John at: lonelyplanet.com/members/johnvlahides OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Sara Benson Coordinating Author, Central Coast After graduating from college in Chicago, Sara jumped on a plane to California with just one suitcase and $100 in her pocket. She has bounced around the Golden State ever since, including just about everywhere between San Francisco and LA. She paddled, hiked, cycled and drove all along the Central Coast while researching this guide. The author of 50 travel and nonfi ction books, Sara has contributed to Lonely Planet’s USA, California and Hawaii guides. Follow more of her adventures online at www.indietraveler.blogspot. com and www.indietraveler.net, and follow her on Twitter (@indie_traveler). Read more about Sara at: lonelyplanet.com/members/sara_benson Andrew Bender Los Angeles Andy is a true Angeleno, not because he was born in Los Angeles but because he’s made it his own. Two decades ago, this native New Englander packed up the car and drove cross-country to work in fi lm production, and eventually realized the joy was in the journey (and writing about it). His work has since appeared in the Los Angeles Times, Forbes, more than two dozen LP titles and on his blog, www.wheres-andy-now.com. Current obsessions: discovering LA’s next great ethnic enclave, and winter sunsets over the bike path in Santa Monica.

Alison Bing San Francisco Author, arts commentator and adventurous eater Alison was adopted by California 16 years ago. By now she has done everything you’re sup- posed to do here and a few things you’re defi nitely not, including talking up LA bands in San Francisco bars and falling in love on the 7 Haight bus. Alison holds a graduate degree in international diplomacy, which she regularly undermines with opinionated commentary in magazines, newspapers, on public radio and in more than 20 books.

Nate Cavalieri North Coast & Redwoods A native of central Michigan, Nate lives in Northern California and has crisscrossed the region’s back roads by bicycle, bus and rental car on a quest for the biggest trees, the best camping and the hoppiest pints of beer. In addition to authoring guides on California and Latin America for Lonely Planet, he writes about music and professional cycling. He’s the Jazz Editor at Rhapsody Music Service. Photos from his travels in Northern California and other writing can be found at www.natecavalieri.com. Read more about Nate at: OVER MORE lonelyplanet.com/members/natecavalieri PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 4th edition – April 2012 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74179 981 1 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 2012 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.