©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 573 beaches 22, 40 Klamath Basin National Wildlife Agate Beach 121 Refuges 13, 290, 291 Avila Beach 499 Morro Bay 486 Baker Beach 64 Pescadero 152 Bowling Ball Beach 216 Point Arena 217-18 Carmel Beach 472 Sacramento National Wildlife Glass Beach 225-6 Refuge 333 Gray Whale Cove State Beach 150 Bishop 438-40 Jalama Beach County Park 505 Bixby Bridge 475 Kings Beach 382-3 boating 128, see also kayaking & canoeing Muir Beach 120 Bodega Bay 211-13 Navy Beach 430 Bodie State Historic Park 428 Ocean Beach County Park 505 A Bolinas 121 accommodations 554-6 Ocean Beach, 71 books 343, 528, 530, see also activities 23-4, 35-44, 38, see also 150 literature individual activities Partington Cove 476-7 border crossings 564 air travel 563-4, 565 261 breweries, see also Alabama Hills 442, 12 476 microbreweries Alcatraz 75, 531, 531 Pismo Beach 502-4 Anderson Valley 232 Amador City 313 Point Reyes National Seashore 124 Arcata 252 Amador County 309-16 Red Rock Beach 120 Auburn 299 American River 10, 10 San Buenaventura State Beach 521 Berkeley 140 amusement parks, see theme parks Santa Barbara 512-13 Chico 335 Anacapa Island 519 Santa Cruz 452, 453 Eureka 249 Anchor Bay 216-17 Sonoma Coast State Beach 213-14 Guerneville 200 Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest 441 South 361 Half Moon Bay 150 Anderson Valley 232-3 Stateline 361 Mammoth Lakes 436 Angel Island 115 Stinson Beach 120-1 Mt Shasta 282 Angels Camp 316-17 Tahoe City 374 225 animals 543-5, see also individual William Randolph Hearst Memorial Paso Robles 494 species State Beach 482 San Francisco 95 Año Nuevo State Reserve 153-4 bears 544 San Luis Obispo 497 Apple Hill 313 beer 392, 392 Santa Barbara 517 aquariums Benbow Lake 239 Scotia 245 Academy of Sciences Benton Hot Springs 439 Sir Francis Drake Blvd 117 70, 21 Berkeley 133-43, 136 South Lake Tahoe 368 Aquarium 460-1, 12 accommodations 137-8 Stateline 368 Arcata 250-3 drinking 139-40 Ukiah 234 architecture 550-1 entertainment 140-1 Ventura 521 area codes 558 food 138-9 Visalia 346 arts 547-52, see also individual arts shopping 141 Briceburg 413-14 Asian Art Museum 57 sights 134-7 Bridgeport 425-7 ATMs 559 tourist information 141 Buck’s Lake 277-8 Auburn 299-301 travel to/from 141-2 Buffalo Soldiers 414 Auburn State Recreation Area travel within 142-3 Burning Man 24, 445 301-3 Bidwell Park 335 bus travel 564, 565-6, 568 Avenue of the Giants 32, 243-4 Big Pine 440-1 business hours 556 Avila Beach 499-502 11, 29-31, 473-81, 474, 11 accommodations 478-9 food 479-80 C B Calaveras County 316-21 sights 475-8 Bakersfield 346-9 California Academy of Sciences tourist information 481 Bay Area 48, 104-54, 106 70, 21 travel to/from 481 accommodations 104, 143 California Museum 323 travel within 477, 481 climate 104 California State Fair 24, 329 birds & bird-watching 43, 545 food 104, 153 California State Railroad Museum highlights 106 Clear Lake 230 325 travel seasons 104 National Estuarine Calistoga 173-7 Research Reserve 460 travel within 105 Cambria 483-4 574 camping 17, 35-6, 37, 38 Woodson Bridge State Recreation City Lights Bookstore 59-60 Anderson Valley 233 Area 336 City of Ten Thousand Buddhas 236 Big Sur 479 405-7, Clear Lake 229-32 Bodega Bay 212 409, 17 climate 18, 23-4, see also individual Channel Islands National Park 520 Cannery Row 461 regions Donner Lake 380 canoeing, see kayaking & canoeing Coit Tower 62 Downieville 307 Capitola 16, 459-60 Coloma 309-10 371 car travel 19, 564, 566-8, see Columbia State Historic Park 319

INDEX also road trips & scenic drives Fort Ross State Historic Park 215 condors 478, 545 insurance 566 Gualala 217 conservation 524, 540, 541-2 rental 567 Humboldt Redwoods State Park Convict Lake 438 C-D 244 road rules 568 courses Indian Grinding Rock State Historic Carmel-by-the-Sea 470-3 cooking 183, 204, 232 Park 315 National Monument kayaking 281 499 Jackson Demonstration State mountain climbing 281 State Park 286-7 Forest 237 credit cards 559 cathedrals, see churches & Kern River 350 Crescent City 259-60 cathedrals Kings Canyon National Park 418-19 Crocker Art Museum 325 caves & caving 43, 318 Klamath 258 Crystal Bay 383 Balconies Cave 491 273-4 Crystal Cave 421 Bear Gulch Cave 491 Lassen Volcanic National Park culture 533-6 269-71 Black Chasm 315 currency 18 Lone Pine 443 California Cavern 317-18 cycling 36-7, 565, 568 Lost Coast 243 Crystal Cave 421 Angel Island 115 Mammoth Lakes 435-6 Lake Shasta Caverns 268 Healdsburg 204 Manchester 218 Moaning Cavern 316 internet resources 37 Marin Headlands 107 Cayucos 484-5 Mammoth Lakes 433 McCloud 288 Cedar Grove 417-18 Mendocino 221 Meeks Bay 371-2 cell phones 19, 558 Monterey 464 Monterey 467 cemeteries 128, 490 Oakland 128 Morro Bay 486 Central Coast 49, 449-522, 450, Reno (Nevada) 445 Mt Shasta 281-2 458-9, 462, 500 San Francisco 71 Oakland 129 accommodations 449 Santa Barbara 513 Oroville 334 climate 449 Santa Barbara Wine Country 508 Pinnacles National Monument 491 food 449 Sausalito 109, 113 Pismo Beach 503 highlights 450 Sonoma 183 Point Reyes National Seashore travel seasons 449 South Lake Tahoe 363 124 Central Valley 49, 322-50, 300 Stateline 363 Prairie Creek Redwoods State accommodations 298 Yosemite National Park 402 Park 257 climate 298 Wine Country 158-9 Quincy 276 food 298 Red Bluff 338 highlights 300 Sacramento 327 travel seasons 298 D San Jose 147 travel within 327, 332 dangers, see safety San Simeon State Park 483 Channel Islands National Park 518-20 Davis 331-3 Santa Cruz 455 Chester 272-3 Dean, James 493 Santa Rosa 202 Chez Panisse 139 Del Norte Coast Redwoods State 421-3 Chico 334-7 Park 258-9 Shasta Lake 268 children, travel with 45-7, 99, 146, 173, Devils Postpile National Monument Sonoma Coast State Beach 213-14 363-4, 364, 513 437 South Lake Tahoe 366 churches & cathedrals Devil’s Slide 150 Stateline 367 Cathedral Basilica of St Joseph 146 disabilities, travelers with 561-2 Sunnyside 373 First Church of Christ Scientist 135 discount cards 556 Twin Lakes 427 Glide Memorial United Methodist diving & snorkeling 40, 464 219 Church 57 DL Bliss State Park 371 Grace Cathedral 61 Donner Lake 377-81 Old St Mary’s Church 59 Donner Memorial State Park 377, 527 000 Map pages Royal Presidio Chapel 463 Donner Party 378, 527, 528 000 Photo pages Saints Peter & Paul Church 60 Downieville 307 INDEX D-H 575 26 Forest 237 120 257 Park 399-402 Bolinas 121 520 Channel Islands National Park 362 Wilderness Desolation 370 Park State Bay Emerald 39-40 resources internet State Demonstration Jackson 241 Coast Lost 434 Mammoth Lakes 107 Marin Headlands 115 Mill Valley 279 Mt Shasta 118 Park State Tamalpais Mt Mt Whitney 444 Monument National Woods Muir 128 Oakland 124 National Seashore Reyes Point State Redwoods Creek Prairie 445 (Nevada) Reno 113 Sausalito 359 Tahoe Lake South 359 Stateline City 374 Tahoe 379 Truckeee 398, National Park Yosemite 528-9 308, Gold Rush 528 War Mexican–American 530 WWII 443, food 298 food 300 highlights 298 seasons travel 486 Bay Morro 470 Grove Pacific 363 Tahoe Lake South 363 Stateline H Half Moon Bay 150, 151 150, Half Moon Bay 203-7 Healdsburg 557 health 481-2, Castle Hearst 476 Library 399 Hetchy Hetch hiking 38-40 526-32 348, 20, history Gold Rush 308, 528-9 308, Gold Rush 55 Bridge 71 Park Golden Gate golf 415-17 Grove Grant 303-4 Valley Grass 150 Whale Cove Gray 543 42, whales gray 414 Groveland Gualala 216-17 197-201 Guerneville , , 300 385 , see also also see 3 22 , 389 , 388 museums & galleries museums parks & gardens parks , see see 387 , Festival 24 Festival 198 551 75, 23, Festival 514 Festival 302 386 individual locations individual accommodations 298 accommodations 298 climate Humboldt County Fair 24 Fair County Humboldt 251 23, Championship Kinetic Grand 76 24, Litquake 221 23, Festival Whale Mendocino Strawberry Bay Monterey 465 24, Jazz Festival Monterey 23 SnowFest Tahoe North Lake 514 Fiesta Days Old Spanish 75-6, Month 24, Pride 240 24, on the River Reggae Festival Jazz & Blues River Russian Film International Francisco San 76 Fest Shakespeare Francisco San Film International Barbara Santa 490 Festival Steinbeck 341 23, Festival Asparagus Stockton 24 festivals vineyard 501 Beach Avila Bishop 439 211 Bay Bodega 226 Bragg Fort 198 Guerneville 430 June Lake 434 Mammoth Lakes 486 Bay Morro Cruz 453 Santa cooking courses 183, 204, 232 204, 183, courses cooking G galleries, galleries, Garberville 240 gardens, 557 94, travelers gay 537-9 524, geography 537-9 geology 420 Giant Forest 488 Gilroy 397-8 Glacier Point 68 Museum History GLBT Glen Ellen 187-9 299-321, 49, 15, Gold Country films 212, 524 films 212, Fish Camp 410-11 fishing 43 556-7, 525, 385-92, food Foothills 420-1 Foothills 225-8 Bragg Fort 214-15 Park Historic State Ross Fort 504-5 Canyon Foxen 343-5 Fresno 12 389 Frog Jubilee 316 Frog 539, 560 539, 34, (Hwy 395) 12, 372 Park Arcata 252 Arcata 501 Beach Avila Eureka 248 246 Ferndale 226 Bragg Fort Gualala 216 197 Guernville 204 Healdsburg 127 Oakland 84 Francisco San Luis Obispo 495 San 517 Barbara Santa Cruz 457 Santa 202 Rosa Santa 194 Sebastopol St Helena 171 Ukiah 235 293 Weaverville 75 23, Breakers to Bay 445 Burning Man 24, Jumping & Fair County Calaveras 329 24, Fair State California 75 Carnaval 75 Festival Cherry Blossom 75 23, Year New Chinese 76 24, Muertos Día de los 344 Festas 76 Fair Street Folsom 276 Music Festival High Sierra F E farmers markets markets farmers Eastern Sierra Scenic Byway Byway Scenic Sierra Eastern State Point Pine Sugar Z’berg Ed 397 El Capitan 309-16 County El Dorado 414 El Portal 556 electricity 554, 544 543, 481, 153, elephant seals Elk 219 370-1 Park State Bay Emerald 519 431, issues environmental 477 Institute Esalen 247-50 Eureka 19 rates exchange Eagle Lake 275 Lake Eagle 538, 531, 529, 142, earthquakes Dry Creek Valley 10 Valley Creek Dry 284-6 Dunsmuir Ferndale 245-6 Ferndale 55-6 Francsico San Building, Ferry 23-4 22, & events festivals 576 holidays 559-60 mountain-biking 37 Klamath 257-8 homelessness 535 surfing 41 Klamath Basin National Wildlife Homewood 372-3 volunteering 562 Refuges 13, 290, 291, 13 Hopland 229 Inverness 123 horseback riding 43 itineraries 25-8 L Bodega Bay 211 La Purísima Mission State Historic Guerneville 198 J Park 504 Marin Headlands 107 Lake Almanor 272-4

INDEX Jackson 315-16 Point Reyes National Seashore 124 Jamestown 319-21 Wildlife Area 260-1 South Lake Tahoe 363 Jebediah Smith Redwoods State Lake Mendocino 236 Stateline 363 Park 261 Lake Tahoe 9, 49, 351-84, 352, 354, H-M Yosemite National Park 403 Jenner 214 356, 9 Hot Creek Geological Site 438 John Muir National Historic Site 143 accommodations 351 hot springs 22 John Muir Trail 40 climate 351 Avila Beach 499 Jug Handle State Reserve 224-5 food 351 Benton 439 Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park 477, 10 highlights 352 Bishop 439 June Lake Loop 430-2 travel seasons 351 Buckeye Hot Spring 427 travel within 355 Calistoga 174 Lake Tahoe-Nevada State Park 384 Clear Lake 231 K lakes 21 kayaking & canoeing 41, 464, 499 477 language 18 Anchor Bay 216 Grover Hot Springs State Park 413 272 Angel Island 115 Orr Hot Springs 236 Lassen Volcanic National Park 8, Bay Area 133 Stewart Mineral Springs 282 269-71, 270, 8 Channel Islands National Park 520 482 Lava Beds National Monument Eureka 248 Vichy Hot Springs Resort 235-6 289-90 Guerneville 198 hot-air ballooning Lee Vining 429-30 Healdsburg 204 Mt Shasta 281 legal matters 559 Inverness 123 Napa Valley 169 Leggett 238 Mammoth Lakes 434 South Lake Tahoe 364 lesbian travelers 94, 557 Mendocino 221 Humboldt Bay National Wildlife Lewiston Lake 294 Refuge 246-7 Morro Bay 486 literature 551-2, see also books Humboldt Lagoons State Park 256 Mt Shasta 281 Lodi 339-40 Humboldt Redwoods State Park Oakland 128 Lone Pine 442-3 243-4 San Francisco 71-3 Lost Coast 14, 241-3, 14 Hwy 1 209-28, 451-88 San Simeon 482-3 Lundy Lake 429 Hwy 49 31-2 Santa Barbara 513 Hwy 101 229-38, 488-522 Santa Cruz 453 M Hwy 154 (San Marcos Pass Rd) 507-8 Sausalito 109 MacKerricher State Park 228 Hwy 180 (Kings Canyon South Lake Tahoe 362 Malakoff Diggins State Historic Scenic Byway) 415 Stateline 362 Park 306 Hwy 395 (Eastern Sierra Kern River 349-50 Mammoth Lakes 432-7, 433, 434 Scenic Byway) 12, 34, 12 National Conservation Area 242 Manchester 218 Kings Beach 382-3 National Historic Site I 442, 443 immigration 529, 558, 563 Kings Canyon National Park 14, 414-19, 416-17, 14 Marin County 48, 105-25, 106, Incline Village 383-4 110-11, 2 dangers 415 Independence 441 accommodations 104 planning 422 insurance 557 climate 104 wilderness permits 422 internet access 557 drinking 118 Kings Canyon Scenic Byway internet resources 19 (Hwy 180) 415 food 104, 122 cycling 37 kiteboarding & windsurfing 43, 73 highlights 106 disabilities, travelers with 561-2 kitsch travel seasons 104 hiking 39-40 Madonna Inn 488 travel within 125 Trees of Mystery 258 Marin Headlands 105-8 Willow Creek China Flat Museum marine reserves 000 Map pages 292 Fitzgerald Marine Reserve 150 000 Photo pages Winchester Mystery House 147 Gerstle Cove Marine Reserve 215 INDEX M-N 577 391 , 9 , 160 165 Kings Canyon National National Canyon Kings 499 518-20 Monument 437 460 Reserve Research 246-7 Refuge 70 442 443-4 127-8 134 Anthropology Art 64-5 451 292 see also see National Park, Sequoia Park, Yosemite & reserves, parks state National Park Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest 441 Pine Forest Ancient Bristlecone Plain National Monument Carrizo Channel Islands National Park National Postpile Devils Elkhorn Slough National Estuarine Wildlife National Humboldt Bay GLBT History Museum 68 Museum History GLBT 144-5 Park History 512 Library Manuscript Karpeles Gallery 57 Store Luggage 146 MACLA 220 Art Center Mendocino Memorial Museum Young MH de Art 463 of Museum Monterey 61 Mecanique Musée Art 65 and Folk Craft of Museum Film History Pine Lone of Museum 134 Paleontology of Museum 65 Diaspora African the of Museum National Automobile Museum 489 Center National Steinbeck Art 444 of Museum Nevada California of Museum Oakland 131 Museum Pinball Pacific of Museum Phoebe Hearst Gallery 211 Collection Brown Ren 146 Museum Egyptian Rosicrucian 61 Institute Art Francisco San Modern of Museum Francisco San Art 145 of Museum Jose San Art 512 of Museum Barbara Santa Center Marine Discovery Seymour 173-4 Museum Sharpsteen Art 182 of Museum Valley Sonoma 134 Art Museum Berkeley UC China Flat Museum Creek Willow N Napa 164-8, 164-8, Napa 159-78, 9, Valley Napa 443-4 Museum Automobile National 539-40, 20, & reserves national parks music 21, 347, 524, 547-50 524, 347, music 21, 12 15 , 279 12 17 21 70, 70, Park 257 Park Legion of Honour 69 of Legion 325 146 Jose 57 Museum America 344 & Science 119-20, 119-20, 236 Asian Art Museum 57 Art Museum Asian 109 Museum Discovery Area Bay 60 Museum Beat Sciences of Academy California rental 567-8 rental 568 rules road 174 Calistoga 37 resources internet 433-4 Mammoth Lakes 107 Marin Headlands 464 Monterey 118-19 Park State Tamalpais Mt State Redwoods Creek Prairie 445 (Nevada) Reno 362-3 Tahoe Lake South 362-3 Stateline California Museum 323 Museum California the of Palace California Museum Railroad State California 65 Art Museum Cartoon Catharine Clark Gallery 65 202 Museum M Schulz Charles San Museum, Discovery Children’s of Society Historical Chinese 65 Museum Jewish Contemporary 65 Explored Creativity 325 Art Museum Crocker 62 Exploratorium 56 Art International Folk Art of Museum Metropolitan Fresno Monterey Bay Aquarium 460-1, 460-1, Aquarium Bay Monterey Mt Shasta City 280-4 Mt Shasta 118-19 Park State Tamalpais Mt 444, 442, Whitney Mt 120 Muir Beach 530 John 143, Muir, 17, National Monument Woods Muir 317-19 Murphys Joaquin 320 Murrieta, 21 & galleries museums Monterey Jazz Festival 24, 465 24, Festival Jazz Monterey 461 Park Historic State Monterey Reserve State Woods Montgomery 485-7 Bay Morro Landing 460 Moss 566-8 564, travel motorcycle lions 545 mountain 36-7 mountain-biking 143 Park Mt Diablo State 278-80, 15, Mt Shasta 9 , 8 , 220 466 426 farmers markets farmers 11 see also see 491 494 471-2 Mission Historic Park 310 Park Historic 289 Park State 545 Napa 167 Napa 130 Oakland Jose San 146 St Helena 172 La Purísima Mission 504 Mission La Purísima 65 Delores Mission Padua De Antonio San Mission 521 Buenaventura San Mission 488 Juan Bautista San Mission Tolosa Luis Obispo de San Mission 117 Arcángel Rafael San Mission 509-11 Barbara Santa Mission de Carmelo Borroméo Carlos San accommodations 465-7 accommodations 463-4 activities drinking 468 468 entertainment 464-5 & events festivals 467-8 food shopping 468-9 460-3 sights 469 information tourist 469 to/from travel within 469 travel Mavericks 151 Mavericks Memorial Falls McArthur-Burney McCloud 287-9 477, Falls McWay Marshall Gold Discovery State State Discovery Gold Marshall Montaña de Oro State Park 487-8 Park State de Oro Montaña 460-9, 12, Monterey Mendocino Whale Festival 23, 221 23, Whale Festival Mendocino 342-3 Merced 412 Canyon River Merced 528 War Mexican–American 392 369, microbeweries 413 Midpines 114-16 Mill Valley Henry 476 Miller, King 421 Mineral missions 558 19, mobile phones 341-2 Modesto 291 502, 469, butterflies Monarch 560 559, 19, 18, money 430, 8, Mono Lake measures 554 measures 371-2 Bay Meeks 219-24, Mendocino 9, Mariposa 412-13 Mariposa 398-9 Grove Mariposa markets, 578 national parks & reserves continued Oakland Museum of California 127-8 ’s regions 48-9 King Range National Conservation Oakville 170-1 travel seasons 18, 23-4, 35 Area 242 Occidental 195-207 plants 545-6, see also individual Klamath Basin National Wildlife Ojai 516 species Refuges 13, 290, 291, 13 Olema 122 Plymouth 313 Lassen National Forest 272 opening hours 556 Point Arena 217-18 Lassen Volcanic National Park 8, Oroville 333-4 Point Piedras Blancas 481 269-71, , 270 8 Orr Hot Springs 236 124 INDEX Lava Beds National Monument Point Reyes National Seashore 16, 289-90 123-5, 16 Los Padres National Forest 477-8 P Point Reyes Station 122-3

N-R Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail 40 Modoc National Forest 291 politics 531, 532, 533, 534, 535 Pacific Grove 469-70 Redwood National & State Parks population 524, 525, 533 32, 256-7, Pacific Pinball Museum 131 16 postal services 558 Sacramento National Wildlife Pacifica 150 Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park Refuge 333 parks & gardens 257 National Steinbeck Center 489 Alamo Square 68-9 Pride Month 24, 75-6, 22 Native Americans 334, 525, 526-7, Bartholomew Park 182-3 public holidays 559-60 531 Berkeley Rose Garden 135 Pyramid Lake 447 Nevada City 15, 304-6, 15 Bidwell Park 335 Nevada County 299-309 Conservatory of Flowers 70 newspapers 554 Cornerstone Gardens 183 Q Quincy 275-7 Nicasio 122 63-4 North Coast 49, 208-61, 210, 239, Delores Park 68 254 Forestiere Underground Gardens R accommodations 208 343-50 radio 554 climate 208 Golden Gate Park 71 Red Bluff 337-9 food 208 History Park 144-5 Redding 263-7, 266 highlights 210 Japanese Tea Garden 70-1 Reds Meadow 437-8 travel seasons 208 Luther Burbank Home & Gardens Redwood National & State Parks 32, travel within 209 201 256-7, 16 Northern Mountains 49, 262-97, 264 Mendocino Coast Botanical redwood trees 197-8, 243, 546 Gardens 225 accommodations 262 Avenue of the Giants 32, 243-4 Monarch Butterfly Grove 502 climate 262 General Grant Grove 415-17, 14 Monarch Grove Sanctuary 469 drinking 295 Humboldt Redwoods State Park food 262 People’s Park 135 243-4 highlights 264 Red Bluff Lake Recreation Area 338 Mariposa Grove 398-9 travel seasons 262 Roeding Park 344 Redwood Canyon 417 travel within 265, 269 Santa Barbara Botanic Garden 512 religion 525 North Lake Tahoe SnowFest 23 Strybing Arboretum & Botanical Reno (Nevada) 443-8 Gardens 70 North Yuba River 306-9 accommodations 445-6 Tilden Regional Park 135 activities 445 UC Botanical Garden 135 drinking 446-7 O Paso Robles 13, 492-4, 13 entertainment 447 Oakhurst 411-12 passports 563 festivals & events 445 Oakland 125-33, 126 Patrick’s Point State Park 255-6 food 446-7 accommodations 128-9 Pelican Beach State Park 261 sights 443-5 activities 127-8 Pescadero 152-3 tourist information 447-8 drinking 130-1 phonecards 558 travel to/from 448 entertainment 131-2 Pinnacles National Monument 491 travel within 448 food 129-30 Pismo Beach 502-4 walking tours 445 sights 125-8 Placerville 310-12 Richardson Grove State Park 239 tourist information 132 planning, see also individual regions road rules 568 travel to/from 132-3 budgeting 18 road trips & scenic drives 29-34, 30 travel within 133 calendar of events 23-4 17-Mile Drive 471 children, travel with 45-7 Avenue of the Giants 243-4 internet resources 19 Big Sur 29-31 000 Map pages itineraries 25-8 Blossom Trail 346 Northern California basics 18-19 000 Photo pages Coleman Valley Rd 196 INDEX R-S 579 354 9 394-5 180 road trips & trips road , see diving & snorkeling 184 redwood trees redwood see 416-17 see Reserve 211 Reserve 128 444 Center Science 254 Laboratory scenic drives scenic 419-24, Bodega Marine Laboratory & Marine Laboratory Bodega Center & Science Chabot Space & Planetarium Fleischmann 136 Science of Hall Lawrence Marine Telonicher SU 263 Park Exploration Bay Turtle Bear Valley 413 Valley Bear 430-1 Area Ski June Mountain 424 National Park Canyon Kings 372, 353-8, 9, Tahoe Lake 432-3 Mammoth Lakes 279-80 Mt Shasta 425 Nevada Sierra City 374 Tahoe 403-4 National Park Yosemite 183-5 accommodations 183 activities drinking 186-7 185-6 food shopping 187 180-3 sights 187 information tourist dangers 415 dangers planning 422 422 permits wilderness 428 accommodations 393 climate 394-5 highlights 393 seasons travel 444 428, permits wilderness scenic drives scenic science centers & research facilities & research centers science 244-5 Scotia 295-6 Valley Scott 215-16 Ranch Sea 193-5 Sebastopol 414-5, 14, National Park Sequoia snorkeling, snorkeling, 213-14 Beach State Coast Sonoma 178-89, 9, Valley Sonoma Sonoma 180-7, 180-7, Sonoma sequoias, sequoias, 268 Dam Shasta 267-8 Lake Shasta 267 Park Historic State Shasta 242-3 Cove Shelter City 307-9 Sierra Club 530 Sierra 393-448, 49, Nevada Sierra 532 Valley Silicon 242 Park State Wilderness Sinkyone 116-17 Blvd Drake Sir Francis 43-4, skiing & snowboarding 16 10 , 496 510 454 Festival 23, 75, 551 75, 23, Festival Art 64-5 travel seasons 52 seasons travel 102 to/from travel within 102-3 travel 74 73-5, tours walking 146-7 accommodations drinking 147-8 148 entertainment 148 147, food 144-6 sights 149 information tourist 149 to/from travel within 149 travel accommodations 453-6 accommodations drinking 457 457 entertainment 453 & events festivals 456-7 food shopping 457 451-2 sights 459 information tourist 459 to/from travel within 459 travel accommodations 514-15 accommodations 513-14 activities drinking 517 517 entertainment 514 & events festivals 515-17 food shopping 518 509-12 sights 518 information tourist 514 tours 518 to/from travel within 518 travel 514 tours walking San Francisco International Film International Francisco San Modern of Museum Francisco San 339-50 Valley Joaquin San Jose San 144-9 494-9, Obispo 13, Luis San 519 Santa 459 Cruz Mountains Santa 505 Hills Rita Santa 201-3 Rosa Santa Island 519 Rosa Santa 507 Valley Ynez Santa 108-13 Sausalito San Marcos Pass Rd (Hwy 154) 507-8 Rd Pass Marcos San Miguel 492 San Miguel Island 519 San 117-18 Rafael San Simeon 482-3 San 509-18, 10, Barbara Santa Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk 451, 451, Boardwalk Cruz Beach Santa Santa Barbara Island 519-20 Barbara Santa 451-9, Cruz 16, Santa , 7 58 , , 54 88-9 324-5 , , 81 12 , 322 74 , 72 , 66-7 11 , , (Hwy 180) 415 412 Byway 491 (Hwy 395) 12, 34, 34, 12, (Hwy 395) 62-3 190 accommodations 52, 76, 76-81 76, 52, accommodations 71-3 activities 52 climate 101 & annoyances dangers drinking 92-6 101 services emergency 96-9 entertainment 75-6 & events festivals 82 81-92, 52, food 54 highlights 55 history 101 access internet 102 82, 76, 53, resources internet 60 neighbourhoods 56, planning 53 shopping 99-101 55-71 sights 101 information tourist accommodations 326-7 accommodations drinking 329 329-30 entertainment 326 & events festivals 327-9 food 323-5 sights 330 information tourist 330 to/from travel within 330 travel Ebbets Pass Scenic Byway 413 Byway Scenic Pass Ebbets Hwy 49 31-2 151 Hwy 84 Byway Scenic Canyon Kings 273 Byway Scenic Lassen 257 Parkway Senic B Drury Newton Mendocino 31 to North Coast National Scenic Vista Sierra Bishop 439 National Monument Pinnacles 402 National Park Yosemite Eastern Sierra Scenic Byway Byway Scenic Sierra Eastern S Sacramento 322-30, 322-30, Sacramento Rutherford 170-1 Rutherford Delta 330-1 Delta River Sacramento 322-39 Valley Sacramento 560-1 safety 489-91 Salinas 215 Park State Point Salt 250 Peninsula Samoa 52-103, 48, 6, Francisco San rock climbing 40 rock 189-207, 10, Area River Russian 580 Sonora 319-21 Fort Ross State Historic Park Sinkyone Wilderness State Park South Lake Tahoe 358-70, 360 214-15 242 accommodations 364-6 489 Sonoma State Historic Park 181-2 activities 359-63, 364 Grover Hot Springs State Park 413 South Yuba River State Park 306 drinking 368-9 Humboldt Lagoons State Park 256 Sutter’s Fort State Historic Park 324 entertainment 368-9 Humboldt Redwoods State Park 243-4 Dunes State Park 260-1 food 367-8 Indian Grinding Rock State Historic State Park 124 sights 358-9 INDEX Park 315 Van Damme State Park 219 tourist information 369 Jack London State Historic Park William B Ide Adobe State Historic tours 364 189 Park 338 travel to/from 369

S-T Jackson Demonstration State Woodson Bridge State Recreation travel within 369-70, 370 Forest 237 Area 336 South Yuba River State Park 306 Jebediah Smith Redwoods State Steinbeck, John 489, 490 sports 535-6 Park 261 Stinson Beach 120-1 Squaw Valley 376-7 Joss House State Historic Park 292 Stockton 340-1 St Helena 171-3 Jug Handle State Reserve 224-5 Sunnyside 373 Stateline 358-70 Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park surfing 41 477, 11 accommodations 366-7 internet resources 41 Kruse Rhododendron State activities 359-63 Mavericks 151 Reserve 215 entertainment 368-9 Monterey 464 food 367-8 La Purísima Mission State Historic Park 504 Santa Cruz 452-3 sights 358-9 Lake Tahoe-Nevada State Park 384 Susanville 274-5 tours 364 MacKerricher State Park 228 Sutter Creek 313-14 travel to/from 369 Malakoff Diggins State Historic swimming 13, 22, 40, 402, 13 travel within 369-70 Park 306 state parks & reserves 19, 539-40, Marshall Gold Discovery State T see also national parks & reserves Historic Park 310 Tahoe City 373-6 476 McArthur-Burney Falls Memorial Tahoe Rim Trail 40 Año Nuevo State Reserve 153-4 State Park 289 Tahoe Vista 381-2 Armstrong Redwoods State Mendocino Headlands State Reserve 197-8 Park 221 Tahoma 372 Auburn State Recreation Area Montaña de Oro State Park 487-8 taxes 559 301-3 Monterey State Historic Park 461 technology 525, 532 Bale Grist Mill State Historic Montgomery Woods State Reserve telephone services 19, 558 Park 177 236 theater 552 Bodie State Historic Park 428 486 theme parks Bothe-Napa Valley State Park 177 Mt Diablo State Park 143 Children’s Fairyland 128 152 Mt Tamalpais State Park 118 Great America 146 Calaveras Big Trees State Park 413 Patrick’s Point State Park 255-6 Raging Waters 146 Castle Crags State Park 286-7 Pelican Beach State Park 261 Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk 117 Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park 476 451, 16 Clear Lake State Park 230 State Natural Reserve Traintown 183 Columbia State Historic Park 319 472 Tiburon 113-14 Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Point Sur State Historic Park Tioga Rd 398, 399 Park 258-9 475-6 tipping 560 DL Bliss State Park 371 Prairie Creek Redwoods State 260-1 Donner Memorial State Park Park 257 tourist information 561 377, 527 Railtown 1897 State Historic Park tours, see individual locations, Ed Z’berg Sugar Pine Point State 320-1 walking tours Park 372 Redwood National & State Parks train travel 564, 568-9 El Presidio de Santa Barbara State 256-7 traveler’s checks 559 Historic Park 511 Richardson Grove State Park 239 travel to/from California 563-4 Emerald Bay State Park 370-1 Robert Louis Stevenson State travel within California 564-9 Empire Mine State Historic Park Park 177 Trinidad 253-5 303 215 Trinity (Clair Engle) Lake 294-5 San Juan Bautista State Historic Park 489 Truckee 377-81 000 Map pages San Simeon State Park 483 Tuolumne Meadows 398 Twin Lakes 427-8 000 Photo pages Shasta State Historic Park 267 INDEX U-Z 581 , , 7 9 , , 6 180 , 160 506 13 400-1 404-5 , marine reserves, marine reserves, 394-5 26 see also see 11 , , 17 , 409, 411 409, 391 190 wildlife reserves wildlife 396-410, 396-410, 13 accommodations 393, 404-7, 404-7, 393, accommodations 399-404 activities 393 climate 409 dangers drinking 408 408-9 entertainment 407-8 393, food 394-5 highlights 409 access internet 409 resources internet 411 planning 398, 396-9 sights 410 information tourist 404 tours 396 393, seasons travel 410 to/from travel within 410 travel 411 398, permits wilderness Clear Lake 230 Lake Clear 10 Valley Creek Dry 495 Valley Edna 229 Hopland 340 Lodi 159-64, 9, Valley Napa 492, 13, Robles Paso 312 Placerville 189-93, 10, Area River Russian Luis Obispo 11 San 504-9, Barbara Santa 178-80, 9, Valley Sonoma Ukiah 235 Z Y Yountville 168-70 Yountville 296-7 Yreka zoos 347, Yosemite Falls 397 Falls Yosemite 49, 6, National Park Yosemite Yosemite Valley 397, 397, Valley Yosemite WWII 443, 530 WWII 443, marine 156 13 animals, animals, 391 see also see , see also see kiteboarding & kiteboarding 390 see Sanctuary 251 Sanctuary 246-7 Refuge 291, 290, 13, Refuges plants reserves, zoos reserves, Refuge 333 Refuge 472 Merced River 412 River Merced 281 Mt Shasta 445 (Nevada) Reno 378 Truckee 403 National Park Yosemite 422 Park National Canyon Kings 422 National Park Sequoia 444 428, Nevada Sierra 411 398, Park National Yosemite 560-1 safety Arcata Marsh & Wildlife Wildlife & Marsh Arcata Wildlife National Humboldt Bay Wildlife Klamath Basin National windsurfing accommodations 155 accommodations 155 climate 201 155, food 156 highlights 158-9 tours 155 seasons travel 157 to/from travel within 157-8 travel 312-13 Amador County 232 Valley Anderson Lake Earl Wildlife Area 260-1 Area Wildlife Earl Lake 152 Reserve Marsh Pescadero Wildlife National Sacramento 178 West Safari 124 Elk Reserve Tule 272 Sanctuary Horse Wild 153-4 Reserve State Año Nuevo Reserve Natural State Lobos Point wilderness permits wilderness 545 wildflowers 543-6, wildlife reserves, wildlife Wine Country 48, 155-207, 155-207, 48, Country Wine wine regions 390 wine regions wildlife-watching 236-8 Willits windsurfing, 390, wine 188, individual individual

10 see also see internet resources internet see regions Reno (Nevada) 445 (Nevada) Reno 74 73-5, Francisco San 514 Barbara Santa Bodega Bay 211 Bay Bodega 520 Channel Islands National Park 226 Bragg Fort Mendocino 221 464 Monterey 217 North Coast 124 National Seashore Reyes Point 73 Francisco San 513 Barbara Santa Cruz 453 Santa 10, River American Coloma 309 Coloma 349 River Kern W V U walking tours walking 398-9 Wawona 23-4, 18, weather Weaverville 292-4 Weaverville websites, 554 weights 228 Westport 543-4 42-3, whale-watching 267 Lake Whiskeytown 41-2 rafting white-water vacations 559-60 vacations 143-4 Vallejo 197 Ford Valley 219 Park State Damme Van 482 Wilderness Ventana 520-2 Ventura 235-6 Resort Springs Hot Vichy 446 City Virginia 428-9 Lakes Virginia 345-6 Visalia 562 19, visas 552 70, visual arts 314-15 Volcano 562 volunteering Ukiah 233-5 134 Berkeley California, of University 582

These symbols will help you fi nd the listings you want: 1 Sights T Tours 6 Drinking Look out for these icons: Beaches Festivals & Events Entertainment r z 3 Our author’s o recommendation 2 Activities 4 Sleeping 7 Shopping No payment Information/ F required C Courses 5 Eating 8 Transport A green or S sustainable option These symbols give you the vital information for each listing: Our authors have nominated % Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access g Bus these places as demonstrating h Opening Hours s Swimming Pool f Ferry a strong commitment to p Parking v Vegetarian Selection m Metro sustainability – for example by supporting local communities n Nonsmoking E English-Language Menu b Subway and producers, operating in an a Air-Conditioning c Family-Friendly j Tram environmentally friendly way, i Internet Access # Pet-Friendly d Train or supporting conservation projects. Reviews are organised by author preference.

Map Legend Sights Drinking Routes Geographic Beach Drinking Tollway Hut/Shelter Buddhist Cafe Freeway Lighthouse Castle Primary Lookout Entertainment Christian Secondary Mountain/Volcano Entertainment Hindu Tertiary Oasis Islamic Shopping Lane Park Jewish Shopping Unsealed Road Pass Monument Plaza/Mall Picnic Area Information Museum/Gallery Steps Waterfall Post Office Ruin Tunnel Tourist Information Hydrography Winery/Vineyard Pedestrian River/Creek Zoo Transport Overpass Intermittent River Other Sight Airport Walking Tour Swamp/Mangrove Border Crossing Walking Tour Activities, Courses Reef Bus Detour & Tours Path Canal Cable Car/ Diving/Snorkelling Water Funicular Boundaries Canoeing/Kayaking Cycling Dry/Salt/ International Skiing Ferry Intermittent Lake State/Province Glacier Surfing Metro Disputed Swimming/Pool Monorail Areas Regional/Suburb Walking Parking Beach/Desert Marine Park Windsurfing S-Bahn Cemetery Cliff Other Activity/ Taxi (Christian) Wall Cemetery (Other) Course/Tour Train/Railway Park/Forest Sleeping Tram Population Sportsground Sleeping Tube Station Capital (National) Sight (Building) Camping U-Bahn Capital Top Sight Other Transport (State/Province) Eating City/Large Town (Building) Eating Town/Village 570 Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS Peters, Celeste Perez, Juliana Pesavento, Many thanks to the travelers who used Charlotte Pothuizen, Louisa Ramshaw, Mona the last edition of the California guide- Reed, Christine Rice, Bobby Richards, Raph- book and wrote to us with helpful hints, ael Richards, Julia Ringma, Daniel Roberts, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Matthew Roder, Danny Roman, Elizabeth Martina Alpeza, Gino Assaf, Collette Beuther, Saenger, Karen Sams, Art Sandoval, Elie Lalimarie Bhagwani, Dr Andrew Brandeis, Sasson, Matthew Scharpnick, Hannah Rob Brehant, Thor Brisbin, Scott Broc, Schmidt, Scott Schmidt, David Schnur, Alison Cant, Dave Carlisle, Deric Carner, Geoff Shepherd, Joe Silins, Aimee Smith, Roe Cheung, Michael Chien, Ted Choi, Allie Smith, Mike Smith, Renee Stuart, May Chu, Eileen Connery, Gerald Crosby, Susan Sueiro, Estrella Tadeo, Emanuela Christine Dauer, Cindy De Groot, Jason Tasinato, Mona Telega, Hans Ter Beek, Dibler, Silke Diedenhofen, Robert Douthit, Amanda Thomas, Aaron Tomas, Carton Richard Edwards, Keith Endean, Kenneth Tsutomu, Christian Utzman, Ophelie Van- Endo, Edgar Ennen, Damian Ennis, Behrooz tournout, Luka Vidovic, Lorna Visser, Ira Farahani, Gerhard Faul, Gentry Fischer, Judy Vouk, Gordon Waggoner, Cyndi Wish, Alex Fried, Pierre Garapon, Peter Garvey, Marg Wong, Dr Felix Z, Greta Zeit Gibson, Sven Gold, Monica Griffi n, Michael Gullo, Caroline Hall, Chris Hardman, Henrik AUTHOR THANKS Hiltunen, Bobbi Lee Hitchon, TJ Huff man, Mary Jenn, Winnie Kaplan, Marijn Kastelein, Nate Cavalieri S Keizer, Christine Klerian, Ali Komiha, Har- Thanks tons to Suki Gear, my commissioning ish Kumar, April Kummrow, Jason Kwon, editor, for her support during the long dura- Tom Laufer, Jennifer Lee, Ali Lemer, Gillian tion of work. Thanks also to Florence Chien Lomax, Bo Lorentzen, Diderik Lund, Megan for joining me during the epic road trip. MacDonald, Melissa MacNabb, Stephanie Magalhaes, Ara Martirosyan, Victoria Mas- Sara Benson cord, Trevor Mazzucchelli, Kevin McElroy, Thanks to everyone at Lonely Planet and all Jimmy McGill, Steve McInnes, Ben Miller, of my California co-authors. I’m grateful to Molly Mitoma, Jacqui Monaghan, Heather those folks I met on the road who shared Monell, Kirsty Moore, Bradford Nordeen, their local expertise and tips. Big thanks to all Junhui Park, Jerry Patel, Sudha Patel, Sheri of my friends and family across the Golden BEHIND THE SCENES 571

Alice Alice

Sasha Baskett, Baskett, Sasha Virginia Moreno, Moreno, Virginia Barker, Lauren Hunt, Fionnuala Hunt, Lauren Barker, Twomey Naomi Parker Internal Image Research Image Internal to Thanks Assisting Editors Assisting Layout Assisting Designers Research Cover Sabrina Dalbesio Sabrina Lucy Birchley, Ryan Evans, Evans, Ryan Birchley, Lucy Rawlings, Kirsten Kirk, Yvonne Walker Gerard Rusli Wibowo Hydrology and Earth System

11, 1633 44. 1633 11, cation’, cation’, Sarah fi Bruce Bruce Cover photograph: Hikers above Yosemite Yosemite above Hikers photograph: Cover JohnA Vlahides commissioning my to thanks heartfelt owe I Benson Sam co-authors and Gear, Suki editor, and help their wonderful for Bing, Alison and Ste- Brady, Kate dispositions. always-sunny Jim Clarke, Kevin Soehnlein, Karl Kahn, ven me upbeat kept – you Young Adam and Aloise impossible. seemed when things and laughing letting for thank you the readers: you, And to I fun. Have Country. Wine guide to me be your will. you know ACKNOWLEDGMENTS MC, Peel from map data adapted Climate ‘Updated (2007) TA & McMahon BL Finlayson Climate the Köppen-Geiger Map of World Classi Sciences, Brashares, plus all the helpful and patient patient and helpful all the plus Brashares, Park. National Yosemite at rangers National Park and El Capitan. California, John California, and El Capitan. National Park in this guide the images of Many Mock/LPI. Planet Lonely from licensing for available are www.lonelyplanetimages.com. Images: Valentina Valentina Angela Tinson Angela Chris Girdler Carlos Solarte Carlos

Alison Lyall, Diana Von Holdt Von Diana Lyall, Alison Kremenchutskaya Senior Editor Senior Cartographers Managing Layout Managing Designer Coordinating Editors Coordinating Noble Karyn Bella Li, Bailey, Coordinating Cartographer Layout Coordinating Designer Editors Managing Annelies Mertens Evans,

Beth Kohn Beth espe- again, thanks get All the usual suspects and multi-tasking Suki Gear cially the fabulous California Benson. as Sam the dynamo known included this time around and experts cohorts ‘Hella Felix Moller, ‘Pedal-to-the-metal’ Agent Dil- G, ‘Stink’ Jenny Thomson, Oakland’ Loves ‘Wawona’ Julia and Dutton ‘The Scientist’ lon Suki Gear and Sam Benson, whose guidance, guidance, whose Benson, and Sam Suki Gear mental tricky any make insight and support bear California Shameless possible. backbend Landon for and Robert Vlahides John to hugs fear- to giddily high writing standards, setting Dickson and Heather Gosnell Brice leaders less Writers’ the Sanchez to Planet, at Lonely Mari- Flavio Marco to all, above and, Grotto espresso and bracing kindness whose nucci, possible. everything make Alison Bing Alison State, especially the Picketts for their Lake Lake their for the Picketts especially State, road-tripping for Jai and hospitality Tahoe Jr: glad that MSC to PS (cowbears!). humor hoping Here’s Whew! kill us. didn’t avalanche invincible. we’re Commissioning Editor Commissioning

This 1st edition of Northern edition of 1st This by coordinated was California This guidebook Cavalieri. Nate and written researched also was Beth Bing, Alison Benson, Sara by It Vlahides. was Kohn and John A Planet’s in Lonely commissioned by and produced office, Oakland the following: THIS BOOK Suki Gear ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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