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Behind the Scenes

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 769

Behind the Scenes

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above all, Marco Flavio Marinucci, for making a OUR READERS Muni bus ride into the adventure of a lifetime. Many thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful Celeste Brash advice and interesting anecdotes: Thanks first to my road trip buddies on this Buzz Berridge, Tony Brett, Guillaume trip, Heather Griggs and Tevai Humbert (who ­Croussette, Taryn Dickinson, Stephan is also my son). On the road I was given all the ­Haagensen, ­Janet Noonan, Anne-Marie scoop by local heroes Grant Roden, Audie The- ­Tremblay, Margareta Troein ­Töllborn ole, Freda Moon, John Vlahides, Kem Pence and Ken Pence. Thanks to Sara Benson for being so passionate about the region and the great Suki AUTHOR THANKS Gear for getting me on her last book. Sara Benson Tienlon Ho Thanks to Suki Gear, Cliff Wilkinson, Alison Lyall Thanks to Cliff Wilkinson, Suki Gear, Dianne and the entire Lonely Planet team, including and the SPP team, and Sara Benson for the my co-authors. Family and friends all over Cal- opportunity and support along the way. Thanks ifornia generously gave me insider tips, good to Ken Ho, Wenhuei Ho, Tienchin Ho, Richard company on road trips and most importantly, Winters, Anli Winters, Mayli Winters, Alison spare rooms to crash in. Special thanks to my Shinsato and, of course, Jon Adams for inspi- running partners Beth ration and everything else. Most importantly, Kohn (also my trail guru) and thanks to the truly weary travelers who came Derek Wolfgram (home brewer and an expert before me, recorded or forgotten, who built the advisor on Bay Area craft ). Central Valley, Gold Country and so, . Andrew Bender Beth Kohn Thanks to Suki Gear, Cliff Wilkinson, Alison Ly- Brava to Suki Gear for all her years of work on all, Hilary Angel, Juan Flores, Joe Timko, Sarah so many fantastic editions of this guide, and to Weinberg, Suzi Dennett and the good folks at Sara B, my running, hiking, baking and writing the SPP Help Desk. heroine! Thanks to Visit Oakland, Lisa Cesaro Alison Bing of DNC, Kari Cobb in and Lara Kaylor at Mammoth Lakes Tourism Thanks to Suki Gear, Rana Freedman, Cliff for their excellent on-the-ground assistance. Wilkinson, Katie O’Connell, Melissa Wong, and 770 Jen and Dillon provided worthy campfire John A Vlahides s’mores and Claude kept me (reasonably) I owe great thanks to my commissioning sane throughout. editor, Suki Gear, whom I miss; to my co-­ author, Sara Benson, for her always-sunny Adam Skolnick disposition; and to my editor Clifton Wilkin- Los Angeles is a city I love, full of people I son for giving me free reign – I’m grateful. love. LA is home. Still, it’s never easy to dis- BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND And to you, dear readers: please accept my sect your own backyard, mostly because you most heartfelt gratitude for letting me be usually know what you’re missing. So thanks your guide to Wine Country. Have fun. I know to Alma Lauer, Trisha Cole, Jessica Ritz, Nina you will! Gregory, Burton Breznick, Tchaiko Omawale, Dan Cohn, Angel Payne, Christine Lazzaro, Liebe Geft, the folks at the Wende Museum, ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Michael McDowell, Alex Capriotti, and John Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Moore. Thanks also to all those wild seals, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- sea lions, dolphins and whales that keep ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate us entertained in the water, and to the LP Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System staff and my cohorts Sara Benson and Andy Sciences, 11, 1633¬44. Bender. Illustration pp76-7 by Michael Weldon. Cover photograph: Tunnel View, Yosemite Valley, Eddie Lluisma/Getty.

in Lonely Planet’s Oakland Monique Perrin, Saralinda THIS BOOK office, and produced by the Turner This 7th edition of California following: Senior Cartographer Alison was researched and written by Commissioning Editor Lyall Sara Benson, Andrew Bender, Suki Gear Assisting Cartographers Alison Bing, Celeste Brash, Destination Editor Julie Dodkins, Mick Garrett Tienlon Ho, Beth Kohn, Adam Clifton Wilkinson Book Designer Wibowo Rusli Skolnick and John A Vlahides. Coordinating Editor Sara, Andrew, Alison, Beth and Cover Image Researcher Simon Williamson Naomi Parker John also wrote the previous­

edition, alongside Nate Product Editor Thanks to Imogen Bannister,­ Katie O’Connell­ ­Cavalieri, Bridget Gleeson and Kate Chapman, Penny Cord- Andrea Schulte-Peevers. This Assisting Editors Katie ner, Indra Kilfoyle, Claire Nay- guidebook was commissioned ­Connolly, Melanie Dankel, lor, Karyn Noble, John Taufa, Jenna Myers, Rosie Nicholson, Samantha Tyson, Juan Wanita ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 771

Index

A art galleries, see museums Jalama Beach 512 Bay Bridge 131 accommodations 750-1, see & galleries Kings Beach 393-5 Death Valley National also individual locations arts 738-9, see also La Jolla 652 Park 697 activities 29-31, 47-54, see ­literature, music, visual Laguna Beach 16, 618-22, Golden Gate Bridge 117 arts also individual 619, 16 Joshua Tree National ATMs 755-6 activities area 371-5 Park 678 Auburn 339-40 airports 23, 761, see also Leadbetter Beach 522 Lake Tahoe area 374 Los Angeles ­International Auburn State Recreation Los Angeles 563 Monterey 472 Airport (LAX) Area 340-1 Manhattan Beach 563 Newport Beach 613 air travel 761, 763 Avenue of the Giants 252-4 Muir Beach 126 90 Alamo Square 89 Avila Beach 508-11 Muscle Beach 566 Santa Barbara 520 Alcatraz 76-7, 91, 76-7, 76-7 Newport Beach 611-15, 612 Sausalito 118 Amador City 351-2 B Ocean Beach 96, 512, 633 Tahoe City area 385 Amador County 348-55 Baez, Joan 735 One Thousand Steps Yosemite National Park wine region 352, 547, 546 Baker, Chet 734 Beach 522 410 amusement parks, Bakersfield 332-5 Orange County 607-24 Big Bear Lake 591-2 see theme parks Balboa Island 611 271 Big Pine 453 Anacapa Island 552, 21 Balboa Park 14, 626, 627-30, Pismo Beach 511-13 Big Sur 17, 481-90, 482, Anaheim 596-605 630, 14 522 7, 17 Anchor Bay 225-6 ballooning 53, 176, 295, San Buenaventura State Bigfoot 303 Anderson Valley 241-3, 547 376, 653 Beach 550 birds & bird-watching 52, Angel Island 120 Baltimore Canyon 121 San Diego 633-5, 638 127, 159, 226, 239, 297, Angels Camp 355-6 Barstow 689-91 301, 313, 319, 495, Santa Barbara 522 745-6 animals 418-19, 692, 744-7, baseball 730 Seal Beach 608 757, , see also Bishop 451-3 418-19 basketball 730 Sonoma Coast State individual species, boat travel 763 Bay Area, the 66, 110-60 Beach 222 wildlife reserves Lake Tahoe area 382 Berkeley 140-9, 142 Stinson Beach 126-7 Año Nuevo State Reserve Newport Beach 613 Marin Headlands 112-17 Surf Beach 512 159-60 San Diego 636 Oakland 131-40, 132 Tahoe City 385 Anza-Borrego Desert State Bodega Bay 219-22 Sausolito 117-19 Tahoe Vista 392 Park 682-6, 684 Bodie State Historical Park Apple Corp 726 Bay Bridge 71 Venice Beach 566, 2, 13 439-40 Apple Headquarters 151 beaches 44-6, 56, 574-5 bears 745, 757 Bolinas 26, 127-8 Apple Hill 355 Avila Beach 508-11 Beat poets 725 books 716, 723, 740-1 aquariums 56 85 Beatty, Nevada 700-1 Boonville 241 80 Beck 736 border crossings 648, 761-2 610 Aquarium of the Pacific beer 25, 62, 64-5, 235, Boron 703 Butterfly Beach 522 , see also , 567 65 Borrego Springs 682 Cardiff-by-the-Sea 656 drinks Monterey Bay Aquarium breweries 235 468-9, 17 Bel Air 563, 576 Anchor Company Arcata 259-63 544 Benbow Lake 248-9 64, 65 East Beach 522 architecture 736-8 Berkeley 140-9, 142 Downtown Brewing area codes 23, 757-8 El Capitán State Beach 522 Beverly Hills 563-5, 572-6, Co 506 Goleta Beach County 581, 588 Half Moon Bay Brewing Park 522 bicycle travel 50, 763, 767, Company 157 Half Moon Bay 157 see also mountain biking Map Pages 000 Marin Brewing Company Hermosa Beach 563 Anza-Borrego Desert Photo Pages 000 121 Huntington Beach 609-11 State Park 683-5 772 breweries continued casinos 542, 673, 693, 701, Columbia State Historic information 604 Redwood Curtain 704-12 Park 358-9, 19 itineraries 596 262 Catalina Island 590-1 commerce 717 planning 594 San Diego 645 caves & caving 52, 358 condors 485, 746 shopping 603-4 Santa Cruz County 464 Cayucos 493-4 conservation 716-7, 748 sights & activities Sierra Nevada Brewing Cedar Grove 425 Convict Lake 449-50 596-600

INDEX INDEX Company 321 cell phones 22, 757 Corona del Mar 617 transportation 604-5 Six Rivers Brewery 262 Central Coast 68, 456- Coronado 17, 574, 633, weather 594 Tap It Brewing 506 513, 457 17, 575 diving & snorkeling 52-3

B- Briceburg 422-3 accommodations 456 Corte Madera 121 La Jolla 652

E Bridgeport 434-5 climate 456 Costa Mesa 616-17 Laguna Beach 618  Bucks Lake 287-8 food 456 costs 23, see also money Lake Tahoe area 382 budgeting 23, 365, 752, highlights 457 cougars 745 Monterey 472 755-6 Central Valley 67, 307-36, courses, cookery 192, 213 Newport Beach 613 Buellton 542-3 308 credit cards 755-6 San Diego 635 Bukowski, Charles 741 accommodations 307 Crescent City 269-71 DL Bliss State Park 382 bullfighting 330 climate 307 Crystal Bay 395 Dodgers 730 Bumpass Hell 279, 20 food 307, 331 Crystal Cave 431 Donner Lake 389-92 Burning Man 397 highlights 308 Crystal Cover Beach 575 Donner Party 388 bus travel 23, 762, 763-4, transportation 316 culture 727-41 Donner Pass 364-5, 367-9 767 Channel Islands National currency 22, see also Doors, the 566, 735 business hours 23, 756 Park 21, 551-4, 21 money Downieville 345-6 butterflies 517, 745-6 Chaplin, Charlie 731 customs regulations 752 Dr Dre 736 Byrds, the 735 Chargers 730 cycling see bicycle travel, drinking & nightlife, see Chester 283-4 mountain biking drinks, individual C Chico 320-4 locations cable cars 82-3, 767, 82-3 children, travel with drinks 58-65, see also 55-7, 367, see D beer, breweries, wine, Cachuma Lake Recreation Dana Point 623-4 also Disneyland, wineries Area 533 dance 106-7 theme parks Dunsmuir 294-6 Calaveras County 355-61 David, Larry 733 beaches 45 Dylan, Bob 735 California State Capitol 310 Lake Tahoe 374 Davis 317-18 California State Fair 309 Las Vegas 705 Dead Kennedys 735 Calistoga 26, 181-6, 178 Napa Valley 182 Death Valley Junction 700 E Eagle Lake 285 Cambria 492-3 San Diego 635 Death Valley National Park 14, 41, 693-700, Eagles, the 735 camping 47-54, 751, 48, San Francisco 107 see also national parks 694, 14 earthquakes 147, 742, 757 San Jose 154 & reserves, state parks Del Mar 653-6 East Bay, see Bay Area Santa Barbara 520 canoeing, see kayaking & Del Norte Coast Redwoods East Beach 574 canoeing Chumash Painted Cave State Park 267-8 State Historic Park 533 Eastern Sierra 433-55 Capitola 467 DeMille, Cecil B 731 churches & cathedrals Eastern Sierra Scenic car travel 23, 764-6, see deserts 68, 743-4, see also Byway 39 also scenic drives Glide Memorial United Palm Springs Methodist Church 74 Echo Park 561-2, 583-4 driver’s licenses 764 371, Grace Cathedral 80 economy 717 fuel 764 437, 436 Mission Dolores 87 Ed Z’berg Sugar Pine State parking 764-5 Devils Postpile National Park 383 Cinco de Mayo 30 rental 765-6 Monument 450-5 El Dorado County 348-55 cinema, see film road conditions & Día de los Muertos 31 electricity 752, 755 City Lights Bookstore 74 hazards 766 disabilities, travelers with elephant seals 491 road rules 766 City of Ten Thousand 758-9 Buddhas 245 Elk 228 Cardiff-by-the-Sea 656 Discovery Science Center Clear Lake 239-41 467 Carlsbad 657-9 606 climate 22, 29-31, see also El Portal 423 Carmel-by-the-Sea 479-81 Disney, Walt 733 individual locations emergencies 23 Carpinteria 544-5 Disneyland 12, 68, 593- Clippers 730 605, , Los Angeles 588 Carpinteria State Beach 598 12 Coachella Music & Arts accommodations 593, San Francisco 108 574, 575 Festival 30, 669 600-1 Encinitas 656-7 Coachella Valley 663-5, drinking & entertainment­ entertainment, see 662, 664 603-5 individual­ locations Map Pages 000 81 FASTPASS 597 environmental issues Photo Pages 000 Coloma-Lotus 348 food 593, 602-3 716-7, 748 773 ethnicity 717 golf 52 Mammoth Lakes area Grover Hot Springs State Eureka 256-9 Furnace Creek 697 444 Park 440 events 29-31 Lake Tahoe area 374-5 Marin Headlands 113 Hot Creek Geological exchange rates 23 Palm Springs 668 McCloud 297 Site 449 151 Mt San Jacinto State Mammoth Lakes area 449 Grant Grove 424-5 Park 667-713

F Mono Lake area 434 INDEX Grass Valley 341-2 Mt Shasta 289, 290 Ferndale 26, 254-6, 26 Tecopa 701 Grateful Dead 735 Mt Tamalpais State Ferry Building 101, 63 Park 124 Ukiah area 244-5 Grauman’s Chinese festivals & events 29-31, Mt Whitney 454 486 -Theatre 557  E 59, 733

Muir Woods National hot-air ballooning, see  K gray whales 418, 418 film & TV 27, 716, 731-3 Monument 125 ballooning Griffith Park 560-1, 580, Fish Camp 420-1 North Yuba River area Humboldt Redwoods State 566-7 fishing 52, 445, 461, 635 345 Park 252-4 grizzly bear 745 fog 113 Santa Barbara 522-3 Huntington Beach 574, 574 Groveland 423 Fonts Point 682 Sequoia & Kings Canyon Huxley, Aldous 740 Guadalupe Dunes 512 food 6, 25, 58-65, 752-3, National Parks 432 Gualala 225-6 58-9, 60, 61, see also Sierra Nevada 437 individual locations Guerneville 205-10 Sonoma Coast State I immigration 729, 759, regional specialties 60-2 Guns N’ Roses 736 Beach 222 760-1 trucks 64 Tahoe City area 385 Incline Village 395-6 Foothills 430 H Independence 453 Fort Bragg 234-7 390 Haight & Ashbury 89, 92 Indian Canyons 667 Fort Ross State Historic Tahoe Rim Trail 381 Half Moon Bay 157-8 insurance 753, 754, 764-5 Park 223-4 Tahquitz Canyon 665-7 hang-gliding & ­ internet access 754 Foxen Canyon Wine Trail paragliding 52 Yosemite National Park 409-12 Inverness 129 535-6 Healdsburg 212-16 historic sites 27-8 itineraries 32-7, 32-7 Fresno 329-31 health 753-4 history 718-26 Furnace Creek 695 490-1, 737 1960s counterculture Hetch Hetchy 408-9 724-6 J High Sierra Music Festival Jackson 354-5 civil rights movement G 286 Jamestown 359-61 galleries, see museums & 725 Highway 1 38-9, 219-37, Jane’s Addiction 736 galleries Gold Rush era 721-2 458-97, 489 jazz 31, 734-5 Garberville 249-50 Mexican rule 720-1 Highway 49 39-40 Jedediah Smith Redwoods Garcia, Jerry 735 native Californians Highway 101 497-513 State Park 268 garlic festival 497 718-19 Highway 154 (San Marcos Jenner 222-3 gay travelers 30, 104, 585, Spanish Mission period Pass Rd) 533 John Muir National Historic 672, 753 719-20 hiking 25, 51-2 Site 150 Gehry, Frank 738 Hitchcock, Alfred 220 Anza-Borrego Desert John Muir Trail 437, 436 General Sherman Tree holidays 756-7 State Park 683 Joplin, Janis 735 429 Hollywood 14, 557-60, 571- Bay Bridge 131 Joshua Tree National Park geography 742-3, 744 2, 579, 583, 586, 732-3, Bodega Head 220 , 674-82 geology 742, 744 564 15 Bolinas 127 Hollywood Bowl 557 Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Giant Forest 429-30 Park 484-5 Death Valley National Hollywood Sign 557 Gilroy 497 Park 698 Julian 687-8 Ginsberg, Allen 725, 741 Hollywood Walk of Fame Desolation Wilderness 371 557, June Lake Loop 442-3 Glacier Point 404-5 15 Dipsea Trail 123 Homewood 383-4 Glen Ellen 195-7 Donner Summit 390 Hopland 238 Gold Country 19, 67, K Golden Gate Bridge 117 horseback riding 52-3 kayaking & canoeing 53 337-61, 338 Hidden Valley Trail Bodega Bay 220 Berkeley 141 accommodations 337 675-713 Marin Headlands 116 Half Moon Bay 157 climate 337 Indian Canyons 667 South Lake Tahoe 375 Healdsburg 213 food 337 Joshua Tree National highlights 338 Park 678 Yosemite National Mendocino 229 Park 411 Gold Rush 19, 347, 360, Keys View Trail 675 Monterey 472 hot springs 435 721-2 Lake Tahoe area 370-1, San Diego 636 Golden Gate Bridge 11, 74, 381-2 Avila Beach 509 San Francisco 90 113, 117, 2, 10-11 Lassen Volcanic National Benton 452 Santa Barbara 520-1 Goldwyn, Samuel 731 Park 279 Bishop 451 Santa Cruz 460-1 Lost Coast 251 Calistoga 182-3 Kenwood 195-7 774 Kern River Area 335-6 Lava Beds National Los Feliz 580, 568 Mission Bay 633-5, 636 Kerouac, Jack 741 ­Monument 299-300 Los Olivos 538-9 Mission Beach 574, 574 Kesey, Ken 158, 741 Lee Vining 441 Los Padres National Forest missions 15, 719-20 National Con- legal matters 754-5 533 La Purísima Mission servation Area 250-1 Leggett 247-8 Lost Coast 250-2 State Historic Park King, Rodney 724 lesbian travelers 30, 104, Lotusland 543 538

INDEX INDEX Kings 730 585, 672, 753 Lundy Canyon 437, 436 Mission San Antonio De Kings Canyon National Lewiston Lake 304 Lundy Lake 440-1 Padua 500-1 Park 423-33, 426-7 lifestyle 727-30 Mission San ­Buenaventura 550 K- Kingsburg 334 lighthouses  Mission San Diego de M kiteboarding 53 East Brother Light M  Mackerricher State Park Alcalá 626 Klamath 268-9 Station 148 237 Mission San Juan Klamath & Siskiyou Pigeon Point Light Malakoff Diggins State ­Capistrano 622, 15 ­Mountains 305 Station 159 Historic Park 344-5 Mission San Luis Rey de Knott’s Berry Farm 605 Point Arena Lighthouse 226 Malibu 565, 576-7, 581, Francia 660 584, 588, 574, Point Piedras Blancas 575 Mission Santa Barbara L 490 Mammoth Lakes 26, 443-9, 516-17, 18 La Brea Tar Pits 562 Point Reyes Lighthouse 444, 446 mobile phones 22, 757 Manchester 227-8 La Jolla 650-3, 651 130, 21 Modesto 327-8 Laguna Beach 16, 618-22, Point San Luis National Historic Site 453-4 619, 16 ­Lighthouse 508-9 300-1 maps 755 Area 282-4 Point Sur State Historic Mojave 702-3 Marin County 66, 110-60, Lake Mendocino 245 Park 483 111, 114-15 Lake Oroville 319 literature 716, 740-1 691-3 accommodations 110 Lake Tahoe 18, 67, 362-96, Little Lakes Valley 437 money 22, 23, 752, 755-6 driving tour 40-1 363, 364, 368, 372 Lodi 325-6 Mono Lake 441-2 food 110 accommodations 362, Lombard Street 81 Mono Lake area 434-43, 376-8 Lone Pine 454-5 highlights 111 438 climate 362 Long Beach 567, 582-3 information 112 Montaña de Oro State Park drinking & entertainment­ Los Angeles 13, 68, 555-92, transportation 112 496-7 379-80 558-9, 560-1, 564, weather 110 Montecito 543-4 Eastern Shore 395-6 566-7, 568, 570-1, Marin Headlands 112-17 Monterey 17, 468-77, 470, food 362, 378-9 576, 578, 592, 15, 19, Mariposa 421-2 476 highlights 363 574, 575 Mariposa Grove 405-8 Morrison, Jim 566, 735 Northern Shore 392-5 accommodations 555, Marshall Gold Discovery Morro Bay 494-6 571-7 snow sports 364-70 State Historic Park Moss Landing 467 activities 557-69 348-9 South Lake Tahoe 366, motorcycle travel 764-6 370, 370-81 beaches 556 McArthur-Burney Falls driver’s licenses 764 Memorial State Park tours 375-6, 390 climate 555 fuel 764 298-9 Western Shore 381-4 drinking & nightlife parking 764-5 583-4 McCloud 296-8 Lakers 730 rental 765-6 emergencies 588 McGee Creek 450 Lancaster-Palmdale 702 road conditions & entertainment 584-6 McWay Falls 484-5 language 22, 730 hazards 766 festivals & events 569-71 measures 755 Larkspur 121 road rules 766 food 555, 578-83 media 755 Las Vegas 704-13, 706 mountain biking 50 highlights 558 Meditation Mount 548 accommodations 709 Lake Tahoe area 374 LGBT travelers 585 Meeks Bay 382-3 activities 709 Marin Headlands 116 medical services 589 Mendocino 21, 228-33, drinking & nightlife 712 Mammoth Lakes 444-5 planning 556 230, 21 entertainment 712-13 Mt Tamalpais State Park population 556 Mendocino National Forest 124-5 food 710-12 246 shopping 586-8, 587 movies, see film shopping 713 Merced 328-9 sights 557-69 Mt Diablo State Park sights 704-9 tourist information 589 Merced River Canyon 421 149-50 282 tours 569 Mexican border 648, 761-2 Mt Lassen 278-88 Lassen Volcanic National transportation 589-90 Midpines 422 Mt Rose 395 Park 20, 280-1, 20 Milk, Harvey 72, 87-9, 724 walking tour 573, 573 Mt San Jacinto State Mill Valley 123-4 Los Angeles International Park 667 Mineral King 430 Mt Shasta 16, 288-301, Map Pages 000 Airport (LAX) 23, 589- 90, 761 mineral springs 292, see 289, 16 Photo Pages 000 also hot springs Mt Shasta City 290-4 775 Mt Tamalpais State Park Route 66 ‘Mother Road’ Nevada County 339-48 climate 661 124-5 Museum 690 Newport Bay Ecological drinking & nightlife 671-3 Mt Whitney 454-5 San Francisco Art Reserve 614 entertainment 673 Muir Beach 126 Institute 81 Newport Beach 611-15, 612 festivals & events 668-9 Muir, John 748 Seymour Marine Nicasio 128 food 661, 670-1 ­Discovery Center 459 Muir Woods National nightlife 27, see also highlights 662

music 333, 734-6 INDEX Monument 125-6 individual locations information 673-4 multiculturalism 728-30 Nipton 693 shopping 673 Murphys 356-8 N , the 67, 217-71, sights 663-5

-Murrieta, Joaquin 360 Napa 168-73, 169 218 travel to/within 674  M

accommodations 217  P museums & galleries 27 Napa Valley 66, 161-86, Palm Springs Aerial Asian Art Museum 74 547, 162, 174, 178, 63, food 217 Tramway 663 Balboa Park museums 546-7 highlights 218 Panamint Springs 696 629-31 accommodations 161, transportation 219 paragliding, see Beat Museum 75 169-70, 173-4, 176, weather 217 ­hang-­gliding & Bowers Museum & 177-9, 183-5 Northern Mountains 67, ­paragliding Kidseum 606 children, travel with 182 272-306, 273 parking 765 California Museum 310 climate 161 accommodations 272 parks & gardens California Oil Museum food 161, 171-2, 174-6, food 272 Balboa Park 626, 630 549 179-80, 185 highlights 273 81-5 California Palace of the highlights 162 weather 272 97, 94 90 tours 165 North Redwood Forest Griffith Park 560-1, 580, California Surf Museum transportation 162-4 263-71 660 566-7 weather 161 North Yuba River area 85 Living Desert Zoo & national parks & reserves 345-8 Gardens 665 Charles M Schulz 26, 747-8, see also state Museum 211 Moorten Botanical parks Gardens 665 Chinese Historical Soci- O Antelope Valley Califor- Pasadena 567-9, 577, 583 ety of America 75 nia Poppy Reserve 702 Oakhurst 421 Paso Robles 501-3, 547 Computer History Anza-Borrego Desert Oakland 131-40, 132 passports 759, 760-1 Museum 151 State Park 682-6 Oakville 176 Pescadero 158-9 Contemporary Jewish Cachuma Lake Recrea- Occidental 204-5 pet-friendly attractions 28 Museum 85 tion Area 533 Oceanside 659-60 Pioneertown 681 75 Channel Islands National Ojai 545-9 Placerville 349-51 Getty Center 563-4 Park 21, 551-4, 21 Old Towne Orange 606-7 planning 22-3 Getty Villa 565 Chumash Painted Cave Olema 128 State Historic Park budgeting 23, 365, 752, GLBT History Museum 87 olive oil 211 533 755-6 Grammy Museum 557 opening hours 23, 756 Death Valley National calendar of events 29-31 Hollywood Museum 557 Orange County 68, 593- Park 693-700 California’s regions 66 Los Angeles County 624, 595 Museum of Art 562 Joshua Tree National itineraries 32-7 Park 674-82 accommodations 593 Luggage Store Gallery 74 repeat visitors 24 Kings Canyon National climate 593 Mission murals 91 travel seasons 22, 29-31 Park 423-33, 426-7 food 593 Mob Museum, Las Vegas plants 746-7 Lassen Volcanic National highlights 595 708 Plymouth 351-2 Park 279-82 websites 594 Musée Mécanique 75 Point Arena 226-7 Los Padres National Oroville 318-20 Museum of Contempo- State Natural Forest 533 Oscars, the 29 rary Art 557, 631 Reserve 479 Mt San Jacinto State Museum of the African Park 667 Point Piedras Blancas 490 Diaspora 85-7 P Point Reyes National Neon Museum, Las 500 Seashore 21, 129-31, 21 Vegas 708 Pacific Beach 633-5 Redwood National Park Pacific Coast Highways Point Reyes Station 128-9 Oakland Museum of 266-7 police 754-5 California 134 38-9, 219-37, 458-97, Yosemite National Park 489 politics 716-7 Pacific Pinball Museum 13, 67, 400-20, 402-3, 137 Pacific Grove 477-9 population 717, 727-30 406, 4, 13, 26, 436-7 Page Museum 562 painting, see visual arts postal services 756 native Californians 341, Palm Springs 20, 68, 662, Prairie Creek Redwoods Palm Springs Art 718-19 Museum 665 666, 20 State Park 267 Needles 691 Richard Nixon Library & accommodations 661, Primm 693 Nevada 366-7 Museum 607 669-70 Proposition 8 726, 729 Nevada City 342-4 776 public holidays 756-7 Mexico, travel to 762 neighbourhoods 72 Santa Monica 13, 565-6, Pyramid Lake 398 swimming 45 planning 71 574, 577, 581-2, 584, sailing 141, 636 population 71 588, 574, 578, 574 Salinas 498-500 shopping 107-8 Santa Paula 549 Q Salton Sea 687 sights 74-90 Santa Rita Hills Wine Trail 536-8 Quincy 285-7 Salvation Mountain 687 tours 91-2, 83

INDEX INDEX Santa Rosa 210-12 same-sex marriage 716, transport to/from 108-9 Santa Ynez Valley 537-8 R 726, 729 transport within 109 Sausalito 117-19 radio 736, 755 Samoa Peninsula 259 walking tours 92, 93, 93

,P-S scenic drives 6, 38-43  rafting 53-4, 411 San Diego 68, 625-60, weather 70 627, 628, 630, 632-3, 42-3, see also car

Raiders 730  websites 71, 108 travel Randsburg 704 636, 654 San Francisco International 17-Mile Drive 478 Red Bluff 324-5 accommodations 625, Airport 23, 761 638-40 Blossom Trail, the 332 Red Hot Chili Peppers 736 San Joaquin Valley 325-36 activities 635-6 Coleman Valley Road Redding 274-6, 275 San Jose 152-6 attractions 627-35 204 Reds Meadow 449 San Juan Bautista 497-8 children, travel with 635 Ebbetts Pass Scenic Redwood Canyon 425 San Juan Capistrano 622-3 Byway 440 drinking & nightlife San Luis Obispo 503-8, redwood forests 11, 67, 247- 644-6 Highway 84 158 71, , , , 504, 510 218 248 264 11 entertainment 646-7 Hwy 1 South of Pismo accommodations 217 San Miguel 501, 553 Beach 512 festivals & events 637-8 food 217 San Pedro 567, 582-3 Joshua Tree National food 625, 626, 640-4 highlights 218 San Rafael 122 Park 677-8 highlights 627 transportation 219 San Simeon 491-2 Kings Canyon Scenic itineraries 629 weather 217 Santa Barbara 18, 516-32, Byway (Highway LGBT travelers 626 180) 429 Redwood National Parks 574, 518, 575 population 626 266-7 accommodations 524 Lassen Scenic Byway shopping 647-8 283 religion 717 drinking & nightlife tourist information Rim of the World Scenic Reno, NV 396-9 528-9 648-9 Byway 591 reserves, see national entertainment 529-30 tours 636-7 Scott Valley 277 parks & reserves food 526-8 transportation 649 Sierra Vista Scenic Richardson Grove State highlights 515 weather 625 Byway 421 Park 248 information 530-1 websites 649 Trinity Scenic Byway 301 Ridgecrest 703-4 itineraries 516 San Diego International Schwarzenegger, Arnold road trips, see car travel, shopping 530 Airport 649, 761 725 scenic drives transportation 531-2 San Diego Zoo 14, 627-30 Scotia 254 rock climbing 53, 410, 500, walking tours 521, 524 678-9 San Diego Zoo Safari Scott Valley 305-6 Park 658 Santa Barbara County 68, Scotty’s Castle 696 Rock Creek 450 514-54, 515, 534 Rodeo Drive 588 San Fernando Valley 567, scuba diving 52-3 583 accommodations 514 Route 66 40, 688-91 Seal Beach 26 San Francisco 66, 70-109, food 514 Runyon Canyon 563 seals 745 73, 78-9, 84, 86-7, weather 514 Russian River Area 197-216, SeaWorld San Diego 633-5 88-9, 92, 94, 10-11, 58 wine 532-43, 547 547, 198 Sea Ranch 224-5 accommodations 70, Santa Barbara Island 553 Sebastopol 201-4 Rutherford 176, 174 95-9 151 RV travel 764-6 activities 90-1 Santa Cruz 458-66, 458, 423-33, 426-7 children, travel with 107 466-7 Shakur, Tupac 736 S dangers & annoyances accommodations 462-3 Shasta Lake 277-8 108 Sacramento 67, 309-15, activities 460 Shasta State Historic Parks 310-11 drinking & nightlife attractions 459-60 276-7 103-5 Sacramento Valley 309-25 drinking & nightlife Shelter Cove 252 entertainment 105-7 Sacramento-San Joaquin 464-5 shopping 28, see also River Delta 315-16 festivals & events 92-5 entertainment 465 individual locations safety 757 food 70, 99-103 festivals & events 461-2 Shoshone 701 car travel 279, 318, 366 free attractions 71 food 463-4 Sierra Buttes 346-8 forest fires 620 highlights 73 information 465 Sierra City 346-8 history 72-4 shopping 465 Sierra Nevada 67, 400, information 108 transportation 465-6 437, 743 Map Pages 000 internet access 108 552 402-3, 437 Photo Pages 000 LGBT travelers 104 Santa Cruz Mountains 466 151, 726 777 Silver Lake 561-2, 584-3 Big Basin Redwoods Sinkyone Wilderness Terrible’s Primm Valley Sinkyone Wilderness State State Park 466 State Park 250 Casino Resorts 693 Park 250 159 South Yuba River State Universal Studios Sir Francis Drake Blvd area Calaveras Big Trees Park 344 Hollywood 567 121-2 State Park 357 Sugarloaf Ridge State Wet ‘n’ Wild Palm skating 90, 613 State Park 195-6 Springs 668

Skidoo 696 Park 296 Dunes State Tiburon 119-21 INDEX skiing, snowboarding & Park 271 Tijuana, Mexico 648 snowshoeing 54, 18 574, 617 time 22, 755 Del Norte Coast 228 Tioga Pass 405

Lake Tahoe area 364-70  S-V Redwoods State Park Stateline, NV 370-81 Mammoth Lakes 443-4 Tioga Road 405

 Steinbeck, John 469, 498- 267-8 Northern Mountains 297 tipping 756 DL Bliss State Park 382 9, 724, 740 Sequoia & Kings Canyon Donner Memorial State Stockton 326-7 National Parks 433 271 Park 389 Stovepipe Wells 696 Yosemite National Park tourist information 758, Ed Z’berg Sugar Pine 411-12 streetcar travel 767 see also individual Point State Park 383 Smith River National Summerland 544 locations Recreation Area 268 Sunnyside 384 tours 767, see 381-2 smoking 755 Sunset Boulevard 563 also individual Humboldt Lagoons State locations Snoop Dogg 736 Sunset Strip 563 Park 265 train travel 19, 23, 762-3, sno-parks 394 surfing 18, 45-6, 730, Humboldt Redwoods 767-8, 19 snorkeling, see diving & State Park 252-4 18, 574 transportation 23, 760-8 snorkeling Jack London State Huntington Beach 609 travel to/from California snowboarding, see Historic Park 195 Monterey 472 760-3 skiing, snowboarding & Jackson Demonstration Newport Beach 612-13 travel within California 23, ­snowshoeing State Forest 246 Orange County 622 763-8 snowshoeing, see skiing, Jedediah Smith Red- San Diego 635 trees 746-7, see also snowboarding & woods State Park 268 snowshoeing Santa Barbara 521-2 redwood forests Jug Handle State Solvang 539-42 Santa Cruz 460 Trestles 623 Reserve 233-4 Susanville 284-5 Sonoma 190-5, 191 Trinidad 263-5 Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Sutter Creek 352-3 Sonoma Coast State Beach Park 484-5 Trinity (Clair Engle) Lake swimming 44-5 304-5 222 Lake Tahoe-Nevada Sonoma Valley 12, 66, 161- State Park 396 trolley travel 767 4, 186-216, 547, 162, Mackerricher State T Trona Pinnacles 704 188, 546 Park 237 Tahoe City 365-6, 369-70, Truckee 364-5, 367-9, accommodations 161, McArthur-Burney Falls 384-7 389-92 192-3 Memorial State Park Tahoe Vista 392-3 tubing 321 children, travel with 182 298-9 Tahoma 383 tunnel trees 407 food 193-4 Montaña de Oro State Tahquitz Canyon 665-7 Tuolumne Meadows 405 Park 496-7 highlights 162 taxis 767 TV 27, 733, 755 Montgomery Woods tours 165 Tecopa 701-2 Twin Lakes 435 State Reserve 245 transportation 162-4 telephone services 22, weather 161 23, 757-8 495 U Sonora 359-61 television, see TV Ukiah 243-4 Mt Diablo State Park South Yuba River State 149-50 theater 739 Urban Wine Trail 528 Park 344 Mt Tamalpais State Park theme parks 25, 56, 594, Universal Studios spas, see hot springs 124-5 see also Disneyland ­Hollywood 567 sports 730 Patrick’s Point State Balboa Fun Zone 611-12 Squaw Valley 387-9 Park 265 Calico Ghost Town 690 V St Helena 177-81, 178 Pfeiffer Big Sur State Knott’s Berry Farm vacations 756-7 state parks & reserves 26, Park 484 605-6 Vallejo 150 747-8, see also national Prairie Creek Redwoods Legoland 657-8 Van Damme State Park 228 parks & reserves State Park 267 Santa Cruz Beach Venice 13, 566-7, 577, 582, Andrew Molera State Redwood State Park ­Boardwalk 459 584, 588, 578, 2, 13 Park 483-4 265-8 SeaWorld San Diego Ventana Wilderness 486 Año Nuevo State Reserve Richardson Grove State 633-5 Ventura 549-51 159-60 Park 248 Six Flags Discovery vineyards, see wineries Bale Grist Mill & Bothe- Kingdom 150 Robert Louis Stevenson Virginia Lakes 440 Napa Valley State State Park 182 Soak City Orange County Visalia 331-2 Parks 181-2 224 605 visas 22, 759 778 visual arts 91, 738-9 San Diego 636 Willits 245-7 Ukiah 244 Volcano 353-4 San Francisco 90 Winchester Mystery House Urban Wine Trail 528 volunteering 759 Santa Barbara 521 152 Santa Cruz 461 ­windsurfing 53 wine 62-5, 177, 546-7 Y Trinidad 263 Yosemite National Park W Wine Country 12, 40-1, walks, see hiking whales 744-5 13, 67, 400-20, 402-3, INDEX INDEX 66, 161-216, 546-7, 12, Whiskeytown Lake 277 406, 4, 13, 26, 436-7 walking tours 546-7 white-water rafting, accommodations 412-15 Los Angeles 573, 573 wineries 546-7, see rafting 546-7 activities 409-12, 437 San Francisco 92, 93, 93 V- Alexander Valley 201  wilderness permits 435 climate 400

Z Santa Barbara 521, 524 Amador County 352  wildflowers 746-7 drinking & nightlife 416 Warner, Jane 87, 89 Anderson Valley 242 wildlife 418-19, 692, 744-7, food 415-16 water sports, see individual­ 757, 418-19, see also Annapolis Winery 225 sports information 417 individual animals, Bonnie Doon Vineyard sights 401-9 weather 22, 29-31, see also plants 160 individual locations tours 412 wildlife reserves Clear Lake 239 Weaverville 302-4 transportation 417-20 Arcata Marsh & Wildlife Dry Creek Valley 200-1 websites 23, 758, see also Yosemite Valley 401-4, 413, Sanctuary 260 Edna Valley 507 individual locations 408-9 Audubon Canyon Ranch festivals 31 children, travel with 57 126 Yountville 173-6, 174 Foxen Canyon Wine Trail disabilities, travelers Humbolt Bay National 535-6 Yreka 306 with 758-9 Wildlife Refuge 256 Lodi 326 LGBT travelers 753 Klamath Basin National Napa Valley 164-8 weights 755 Wildlife Refuges 300 Z Paso Robles 501-2 zip-lining 375, 385 West Hollywood 562-3, Wildlife Area 572, 580-1, 584, 586-8, 271 Placerville area 350 zoos 56 570-1 Monterey Bay National Russian River area Living Desert Zoo & Westport 237-8 Marine Sanctuary 468 197-201 Gardens 665 whale-watching 54, 227 Sacramento National Santa Barbara 537, 541 San Diego Zoo 14, 627-30 Bodega Head 220 Wildlife Refuge 319 Santa Rita Hills Wine Trail 536-8 San Diego Zoo Safari Monterey 472 Point Blue Conservation Science 127 Sonoma Valley 186-90 Park 658

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 779 NOTES 780 NOTES 781 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 782

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Hut/Shelter Walking Tour detour Shinto Lighthouse Path/Walking Trail Sikh Lookout Taoist Mountain/Volcano Boundaries Winery/Vineyard Oasis International Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Park State/Province Other Sight Pass Disputed Picnic Area Regional/Suburb Activities, Waterfall Marine Park Courses & Tours Cliff Bodysurfing Population Wall Diving Capital (National) Canoeing/Kayaking Capital (State/Province) Hydrography Course/Tour City/Large Town River, Creek Skiing Town/Village Intermittent River Snorkeling Canal Surfing Transport Water Swimming/Pool Airport Walking BART station Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Boston T station Bus Areas Sleeping Cable car/Funicular Airport/Runway Sleeping Cycling Camping Ferry Beach/Desert Metro/Muni station Cemetery (Christian) Eating Monorail Eating Parking Cemetery (Other) Petrol station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Subway/SkyTrain station Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Mudflat Cafe Train station/Railway Park/Forest Tram Entertainment Underground station Sight (Building) Entertainment Other Transport Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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