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Fall 2020 Gems & Gemology

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FALL 2020 VOLUME LVI THE QUARTERLY JOURNAL OF THE GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA Characteristics of D-to-Z Diamonds Emeralds from Swat Valley, Pakistan History of European Royal Jewel Sales Turquoise from China with “Raindrop” Pattern Fall 2020 VOLUME 56, No. 3 EDITORIAL 317 Colorless to Near-Colorless Diamonds, Emeralds from Pakistan, a History of European Royal Jewel Sales, and More… Duncan Pay FEATURE ARTICLES p. 319 318 Natural-Color D-to-Z Diamonds: A Crystal-Clear Perspective Sally Eaton-Magaña, Troy Ardon, Christopher M. Breeding, and James E. Shigley Examines a very large dataset of colorless to near-colorless diamonds submitted to GIA and evaluates their diamond type and spectroscopic properties. 336 Inclusion and Trace Element Characteristics of Emeralds from Swat Valley, Pakistan p. 337 Hongshu Guo, Xiaoyan Yu, Yuyu Zheng, Zhulin Sun, and Miro Fei-Yeung Ng Presents a detailed study of gemological properties, inclusion features, spectroscopic characteristics, and chemical composition of emeralds from this important source. 356 A History of European Royal Jewel Sales, Including Sotheby’s 2018 Auction of Marie Antoinette’s Jewels Russell Shor Chronicles important auctions of jewels from European royal collections over the years, with a focus on a recent high-profile sale of items that once belonged to Marie Antoinette. 380 Unique Raindrop Pattern of Turquoise from Hubei, China p. 374 Ling Liu, Mingxing Yang, Yan Li Presents spectroscopic and chemical analysis of a new variety of turquoise with a rare raindrop pattern with saturated colors. FIELD REPORTS 402 Vietnam: Shell Nuclei, Pearl Hatcheries, and Pearl Farming Nicholas Sturman, Kwanreun Lawanwong, Nuttapol Kitdee, and Devchand Chodhry Reports on a visit to a shell nucleus manufacturer and two pearl farms in northern Vietnam, which is emerging as a notable producer. p. 381 REGULAR FEATURES 401 2020 Challenge Winners 416 Lab Notes p. 421 Color zoning in alexandrite • Novelty cut diamond with “fire and ice” fluorescence • Color- change cat’s-eye diaspore • Emerald with large quartz inclusion • Large pearl discovered in edible oyster • Magnetite inclusions in star peridot • Faceted blue spodumene • Synthetic moissanite with fraudulent GIA inscription 426 G&G Micro-World Fibers in emeralds • Manufactured inclusions • “Egg” in quartz • Blue inclusion in rock crystal quartz • Tree in rock crystal quartz • Unknown dendritic inclusions in sapphire • Spinel on sapphire • Staurolite in ruby from Mozambique • Quarterly Crystal: Ferrocolumbite in topaz 436 Gem News International NFC technology device embedded in bead cultured pearls • Trapiche-type emerald from Swat Valley, Pakistan • Unusual violet Maxixe beryl • New type of rutilated quartz doublet • Black star sapphire with two for ms of treatment • Oiled spinel • Conference report: GSA p. 435 annual meeting Editorial Staff Editor-in-Chief Editors, Lab Notes Assistant Editor Duncan Pay Thomas M. Moses Erin Hogarth gia.edu/gems-gemology Shane F. McClure Managing Editor Contributing Editors Stuart D. Overlin Editors, Micro-World Subscriptions James E. Shigley Copies of the current issue may be purchased for [email protected] Nathan Renfro Raquel Alonso-Perez $29.95 plus shipping. Subscriptions are $79.99 for one Associate Editor Elise A. Skalwold Donna Beaton year (4 issues) in the U.S. and $99.99 elsewhere. Cana- Brooke Goedert John I. Koivula dian subscribers should add GST. Discounts are avail- Editor-in-Chief Emeritus able for renewals, group subscriptions, GIA alumni, Technical Editors Editors, Gem News Alice S. Keller and current GIA students. To purchase print subscrip- Emmanuel Fritsch tions, visit store.gia.edu or contact Customer Service. Tao Z. Hsu Customer Service [email protected] Gagan Choudhary For institutional rates, contact Customer Service. Christopher M. Breeding Martha Erickson Jennifer Stone-Sundberg (760) 603-4502 Database Coverage [email protected] [email protected] Gems & Gemology’s impact factor is 0.767, accord- ing to the 2019 Thomson Reuters Journal Citation Reports (issued July 2020). G&G is abstracted in Production Staff Thomson Reuters products (Current Contents: Phys- ical, Chemical & Earth Sciences and Science Cita- Creative Director Photo/Video Producer Video Production tion Index—Expanded, including the Web of Faizah Bhatti Kevin Schumacher Larry Lavitt Knowledge) and other databases. For a complete list Production and Illustrator Pedro Padua of sources abstracting G&G, go to gia.edu/gems- Multimedia Specialist Russel Samson Albert Salvato gemology, and click on “Publication Information.” Juan Zanahuria Multimedia Associate Manuscript Submissions Photographer Christopher Bonine Gems & Gemology, a peer-reviewed journal, welcomes Robert Weldon the submission of articles on all aspects of the field. Please see the Author Guidelines at gia.edu/gems- gemology or contact the Managing Editor. Letters Editorial Review Board on articles published in G&G are also welcome. Please note that Field Reports, Lab Notes, Gem News Ahmadjan Abduriyim Richard W. Hughes Benjamin Rondeau International, Micro-World, Diamonds from the Tokyo, Japan Bangkok, Thailand Nantes, France Deep, and Charts are not peer-reviewed sections but Timothy Adams Jaroslav Hyršl George R. Rossman do undergo technical and editorial review. San Diego, California Prague, Czech Republic Pasadena, California Copyright and Reprint Permission Edward W. Boehm Dorrit Jacob Karl Schmetzer Abstracting is permitted with credit to the source. Chattanooga, Tennessee Canberra, Australia Petershausen, Germany Libraries are permitted to photocopy beyond the lim- James E. Butler A.J.A. (Bram) Janse Andy Shen its of U.S. copyright law for private use of patrons. Washington, DC Perth, Australia Wuhan, China Instructors are permitted to reproduce isolated arti- cles and photographs/images owned by G&G for Alan T. Collins Mary L. Johnson Guanghai Shi noncommercial classroom use without fee. Use of London, UK San Diego, California Beijing, China photographs/images under copyright by external par- Sally Eaton-Magaña Stefanos Karampelas James E. Shigley ties is prohibited without the express permission of Carlsbad, California Basel, Switzerland Carlsbad, California the photographer or owner of the image, as listed in the credits. For other copying, reprint, or republica- John L. Emmett Lore Kiefert Elisabeth Strack tion permission, please contact the Managing Editor. Brush Prairie, Washington Lucerne, Switzerland Hamburg, Germany Gems & Gemology is published quarterly by the Emmanuel Fritsch Simon Lawson Nicholas Sturman Gemological Institute of America, a nonprofit educa- Nantes, France Maidenhead, UK Bangkok, Thailand tional organization for the gem and jewelry industry. Eloïse Gaillou Ren Lu Fanus Viljoen Postmaster: Return undeliverable copies of Gems & Paris, France Wuhan, China Johannesburg, South Africa Gemology to GIA, The Robert Mouawad Campus, Al Gilbertson Thomas M. Moses Wuyi Wang 5345 Armada Drive, Carlsbad, CA 92008. Carlsbad, California New York, New York New York, New York Our Canadian goods and service registration number is 126142892RT. Gaston Giuliani Aaron Palke Christopher M. Welbourn Nancy, France Carlsbad, California Reading, UK Any opinions expressed in signed articles are under- stood to be opinions of the authors and not of the Lee A. Groat Ilene Reinitz Chunhui Zhou publisher. Vancouver, Canada Chicago, Illinois New York, New York Yunbin Guan Nathan Renfro J.C. (Hanco) Zwaan Pasadena, California Carlsbad, California Leiden, The Netherlands About the Cover The three largest fleur-de-lis motifs, decorated with colorless diamonds of various shapes, detach from a diamond tiara crafted in 1912 for Archduchess Marie Anne of the Bourbon-Parma family. The individual fleur-de-lis motifs may be worn as brooches. The tiara was among the 100 lots featured in Sotheby’s historic 2018 auction of jewels with royal provenance. Courtesy of Sotheby’s. Printing is by L+L Printers, Carlsbad, CA. GIA World Headquarters The Robert Mouawad Campus 5345 Armada Drive Carlsbad, CA 92008 USA © 2020 Gemological Institute of America All rights reserved. ISSN 0016-626X Colorless to Near-Colorless Diamonds, Emeralds from Pakistan, a History of European Royal Jewel Sales, and More… Welcome to the Fall Gems & Gemology! This issue offers an exciting glimpse into the world of D- to-Z diamonds, characterizes the inclusion features and chemical composition of emeralds from Swat Valley, and details the acquisition and auction of crown jewels by European royalty. In the lead article, a GIA team led by Sally Eaton-Magaña and Christopher M. Breeding examines colorless to light yellow/brown diamonds with a “D-to-Z” color grade, which make up the vast majority of the world’s gem diamond trade. Because this group of mostly type Ia diamonds has not been subjected to HPHT decolorizing treat- ment or laboratory growth, researchers usually “An exciting glimpse into the world investigate their more rare diamond type of D-to-Z diamonds…” counterparts. This study evaluates diamond type properties and grading quality factors of D-to-Z diamonds submitted to GIA in 2017 and sheds light on their unique geological formation story. The second article comes from a team led by Hongshu Guo, a student at the School of Gemology, China University of Geosciences in Beijing. The authors present the gemological and geochemical details of emeralds (including trapiche emeralds) from Swat Valley in Pakistan. In the third article, Russell Shor examines how European royal families acquired their crown
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