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“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well- written series of guidebooks.” The New York Times

December 2009 - January 2010

Ski & Spa Our annual winter guide is back and better than ever Best of New Year’s Eve The best and the rest as chosen by readers Highlights of the Coast An hour’s drive is a world away

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Contents  www. pocket.com Download a free city guide at Europe’s leading www.inyourpocket.compublisher of locally produced city guides ESSENT IA L CI TY GUID ES

Contents Arriving in Ljubljana 8

Getting around 9

Basics 14 Language, history and numbers Quick Picks 18 The best of the best Culture & Events 16 Music, festivals and exhibitions 16 Somehow not as scary covered in snow Best of New Year’s Eve 19 Cultural centres and venues 23 What to see 60 Bridges, museums and the castle Conferences & Fairs 26 Where to shop 66 Sports 31 The best of what and where to buy Where to stay 32 Bovec 74 Business suites to hostel bunks A year-round sports paradise Dining & Nightlife 37 Ski & Spa 77 Where to eat 37 From extreme slopes to relaxing saunas Everything from A to V(egetarian) Cafés 47 Highlights of the Coast 80 Enjoy one of Ljubljana’s favourite pastimes The Mediterranean is only an hour away Nightlife 49 Wine Tasting 82 Dance and drink the night away East to West we have Slovenian wineries covered Mail & Phones 85 Keep in touch by post, phone and internet Directory 86 Lifestyle 86 Business 88 Maps & Index Street Register 93 In Your Pocket guides and mini-guides are published in 50 cities across the continent. City centre map 94 Europe’s leading publisher of locally produced city guides City map 96 Country map 97 Index 98 The view from our editor’s roof circa 5am ESSENT IA L CI TY GUID ES ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010  Foreword foreword 

Come Christmas time in Ljubljana it’s nearly impossible for even the surliest of curmudgeons not to get caught Europe In Your Pocket Press Box up in the spirit of the holiday season (present company included). Despite the drop in temperature and seemingly Unique books from omnipresent fog, every December the city centre comes alive with a panoply of sights, sounds, smells and activities as winter takes hold and one year becomes another. Slow- “In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series of roasted chestnut sellers kick things off by setting up their guidebooks.” smoky wares at strategic points along the main pedestrian New York Times streets, and shortly thereafter a massive tree is erected in Ireland the centre of Prešernov Trg (p 61) and the entire old town (and 21 other prizes) is blanketed with thousands of tiny lights. But perhaps best of all are the small wooden stalls that eventually line “Tops for Central and Eastern Europe. Back in 1991 the and various squares, selling all manner of during a long night of drinking, four guys living in Vilnius crafts and home-made goods, including copious amounts came up with the idea to create an online city guide for the Lithuanian capital, which at the time had no of mulled wine and warmed schnapps - enticing crowds of telephone directory. The result? This online collection people from their warm cosy homes. of locally written, frank, lively and informative guides Complete our latest readership Content-wise we’ve been busier than ever this issue, to more than 50 cities across the region, from Derry survey at inyourpocket.com/survey putting together all kinds of special features to keep you to Tartu. For most cities, content runs deep: there are active over the next couple months. There should be more than 30 restaurants and 11 clubs listed under and we’ll enter you in our prize draw: something for everyone in our updated Ski & Spa section Brasov, for example. Plus, news, maps and blogs. the winner gets something priceless (p 77). Ever wanted to spend the night in an igloo? Now’s You can even tune into a local radio station. Browse and unique from every country your chance! For those adverse to the snow, the winter is around the site for interesting finds, such as a Prague a great time to visit the Slovenian coast (p 80), with it’s hotel that was formerly a theater and still retains currentlyy In Your Pocket. mild Mediterranean climate and close proximity of things original features, including a full size stage and balcony boxes.” to see and do. And for wine-lovers we’ve compiled our Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Forbes.com largest-ever guide to ’s vineyards and wineries VILNIUS WARSAW

August - September 2009 (p 82). Of course we haven’t forgotten about New Year’s It has been another great year for In Your Pocket. AAugustAuugustugusuggustgugususuststst -- SSepteSeSepSeptemSeptSeptemberepptpte tteemberb r 202 20090000099

Užupis Eve. In fact we ran a month-long poll to find out the best We now publish a record 57 guides and mini-guides A brief sojourn inside Vilnius’ distinctly eccentric independent republic places in Slovenia to spend the waning hours of 2009 (p across 22 European countries. We print more than “Death of the guide book? Pah! They’re just diversi- Vingio Parkas From Tolstoy to rollerblades, the city’s favourite park is 19). As always we welcome any and all feedback, be it on four million In Your Pockets annually. This year we fying. Print off your own PDFs…” pulled apart and examined Facebook, Twitter or even old-fashioned email. launched new guides in , Bled, Portoroz, The Times, April 18, 2008 Sarajevo, Banja Luka, Brasov, Lviv and Odesa. (In naming In Your Pocket as one of 10 guide book After the Battle publishers to trust, in the wake of the Lonely Planet Warsaw Uprising 70 Next year you can expect to see Venice, Vienna and years on Cover story scandal). The Mouth of Old Town Warsaw‘s Barbican Glasgow - amongst others - Pocketed. N°52 3RODQG]á(w tym 7% VAT) UK - £5 N°95 - 6Lt EU (excl. Poland & UK) - €3 www.inyourpocket.com warsaw.inyourpocket.com Although it may not look like it, we swear We welcome enquiries from anyone who would ISSN 1641-5264 that this photo of a rather remote-look- like to take part in our Pocket Revolution, starting ing field blanketed in snow was actually up an IYP. Send us an email to publisher@inyour- “In Your Pocket guides are a godsend. They are taken in Ljubljana - and during the spring pocket.com. We also want to find out how we can impressively up to date and clearly written by people Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps BELFAST PRAGUE no less. Robert Logie snapped it on make our guides better, so please take five minutes who live in the city. Invaluable” Avšičeva Cesta in the neighbour- The Sun Herald (Australia) YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY Aug - Sep 2007 December 2008 - January 2009 hood of the city’s northern outskirts to complete our online survey at inyourpocket. com/survey. Better by back in March of 2006. design Stunning souvenirs, stylish shopping and local crafts on display

The Great Outdoors Feel the burn, catch the “Inyourpocket.com was the first online travel guide to waves, take a hike Gastro Tourism Northern Ireland on a Editorial Copyright notice come up with the idea of offering free downloadable plate Editor Yuri Barron Text and photos copyright IQBATOR d.o.o. city guides in printable (PDF) format.” The Guardian Christmas Maps copyright cartographer. All rights Including Writers Yuri Barron, Will Dunn Markets NORTHERN Gifts galore ESSENT IA L CI TY GUID ES reserved. No part of this publication IRELAND HIGHLIGHTS & Winter Chill Out Research Irena Jamnikar N°48 - 100 Kþ Massage and more HIDDEN GEMS may be reproduced in any form, except www.inyourpocket.com N°13 Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė Complimentary copy brief extracts for the purpose of review, www.inyourpocket.com Ljubljana In Your Pocket Consulting Craig Turp without written permission from the Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana Photos Yuri Barron, Ljubljana Tourist publisher and copyright owner. The “The secret of the In Your Pocket guides is that, Slovenia Office, Klub Top brand name In Your Pocket is used under unlike many expensive travel guides, they are written Tel. +386 30 316 602 Cover photo Robert Logie license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokiečių by native English speakers living in the city they are inyourpocket.com/survey [email protected] 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. +370-5 212 writing about. That can lend itself to frank, matter-of- www.inyourpocket.com 29 76). Sales & Circulation fact advice about your destination rather than jaded impressions from world-weary professional travel Editor’s note ISSN 1855-3486 Director Niko Slavnic M.Sc. writers.” ©IQBATOR d.o.o. [email protected] The editorial content of In Your Pocket The Irish Times Sales & Operations Management guides is independent from paid-for Printed Schwarz d.o.o., Ljubljana Irena Jamnikar +386 30 316 602 advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all Published 20,000 on average Karmen Hribar +386 31 203 560 readers‘ comments and suggestions. Maps Monolit d.o.o. Barbara Žlender +386 30 316 601 We have made every effort to ensure “Practical and honest. It‘s like having a friend and an the accuracy of the information at the advisor all in one.“ time of going to press and assume no La Repubblica responsibility for changes and errors.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010  Arriving in Ljubljana Getting around 

Officially part of the Schengen zone since late 2007 and Arriving by plane A Word From Our Mayor nearly completely surrounded by other Schengen-agree- International train schedule Ljubljana’s cosy little Jože Pučnik Airport is 26km north- ment countries, entering Slovenia has never been easier. From Ljubljana To Ljubljana west of the city, near Brnik. Getting there takes about With a well-developed system of buses, trains and high- 30 minutes by taxi (€35-45) or shuttle (€5-8, schedule is ways throughout the country, getting around is also fairly First Last City First Last * coordinated with flights) and roughly twice as long by bus easy. The centre of Ljubljana is relatively small, meaning 06:15 21:15 BELGRADE 05:50 21:50 4 (€4.10, up to 16 per day between 05:00-20:00). Check public transport is rarely, if ever, needed when in town. 02:00 08:40 BUDAPEST 12:03 16:35 2 the airport’s website for a complete schedule. 08:05 07:25 GRAZ 06:34 18:37 4 Public Transport 09:27 23:50 MUNICH 08:27 23:40 3 Arriving by train Although most of Ljubljana’s sights are within easy walking 09:27 23:50 PRAGUE 07:14 17:11 2 Once you’ve worked out the tunnel and stair system and distance for even the most unfit and/or laziest of people 09:27 23:50 SALZBURG 01:34 14:12 3 made it to the main train station building, find everything (and you can trust us as we’re proud card carrying mem- 02:30 21:08 VENICE 15:48 21:20 2 you need including an ATM and press stand selling top-up bers of both groups), there is a far-reaching and fairly ef- 05:45 17:25 VIENNA 07:56 15:57 3-8 cards (but alas no SIM cards) for prepaid SIM accounts. ficient bus network for reaching attractions farther afield, Left luggage is provided courtesy of 80 coin-operated such as the Zoo, BTC shopping centre or even distant 07:26 23:50 VILLACH 04:07 19:27 7 lockers with instructions in English on platform Nº1, with Šmarna Gora, or for those interested in seeing what the 02:00 21:15 07:00 23:35 7 the toilets conveniently located next door. The station also city looks like outside the city centre. Although you may 20:48 ZURICH 21:40 1 boasts a surprisingly good Tourist Information Centre, a be lucky enough to see some Tito-era antiques plying the train information bureau immediately to the right and cur- roads, the entire fleet is currently being modernised, so All trains depart daily. Schedule valid until December For me, Ljubljana is the most beautiful city in the the world rency exchange opposite (open daily from 10:00 - 19:00, most of the time you can expect a comfortable ride. While 12, 2009. *Trains per day Sat 08:00-15:00, Sun closed). Getting to town depends – unique for its special position in the heart of Slovenia. nearly every stop has a schedule displayed, at most only as always on where you’re planning to stay and how fit you As a city with rich history and cultural heritage, it attracts the frequency of departures is listed, which can make for are. Many central hotels are within reasonable walking ever more visitors every year from near and far. The most some frustratingly long waits. With the newly introduced distance. Alternatively, find taxis outside, and make sure important ambassadors for Ljubljana are undoubtedly Urbana Card, 90 minutes of travel with unlimited transfers Trains the meter is running before you depart. our residents, who live the intercultural dialogue and with costs only €0.80, although you can still pay with coins (€1 Slovenian Railways (Slovenske Železnice) does an admira- their openness, kindness, and hospitality always ensure per ride, no change given) until the end of the year. ble job of running an efficient network with clean modern a touch of comfort and warmth. trains that are usually on time. Their website (www.slo- Arriving by bus LPP (Ljubljanski Potniški Promet) B-2, Slovenska zeleznice.si) contains a wealth of information in English, All national and international buses arrive at the central Welcome to Ljubljana! 56, tel. (+386) 14 30 51 74, [email protected], www.lpp.si. including live information on train delays as well as an bus station which is located directly in front of the main Ljubljana’s urban and suburban public transport company. online timetable. See the national and international train train station. The temporary prefabricated station building, Zoran Janković There are LPP ticket sales offices at Slovenska 56 (Bavarski schedules in this guide for the main destinations. serving passengers until the opening of the new combined Mayor Dvor), Celovška 160 and the central bus station. QOpen train and bus station optimistically scheduled for 2010, 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Train Station (Železniška Postaja) C-1, Trg Osvo- features little in the way of facilities for recent arrivals, bodilne Fronte, tel. (+386) 1291 33 32, potnik.info@ making a trip to the train station almost compulsory. Per- slo-zeleznice.si, www.slo-zeleznice.si. Full of nice touches haps the only one of its kind in the world, the bus station Arriving by car Urbana Card such as little conveyor belts for taking heavy bags up to the does however contain a Sixt car rental kiosk, with the only Driving to Ljubljana is a joy due to the good roads and platforms, Ljubljana’s reasonably central train station just other useful facility being a small internet café for which excellent signposting. The city is circled by a ring road In August the north of the main action is slated for demolition, to be replaced tickets can be acquired from ticket window Nº1. Getting to from where it’s easy to get to the centre. Simply follow the city bus opera- by a truly fabulous new building in 2010. See Arriving for town is the same as described above. parking signs for convenient places to leave your car near tor, LPP, finally information on several of the station’s facilities, plus, if you’re the city centre. Once in the city, it’s best to walk the short introduced the planning on leaving town, the ticket office straight out of a distances rather than drive through the heavy traffic and long awaited 1970s disco movie is to the left of the main entrance, with narrow street. Also, if you’re staying in Old Ljubljana be Urbana Card, signs and departure screens in English. aware that it is largely a pedestrian only zone. a form of elec- tronic ticketing that will eventu- National bus schedule ally replace the From Ljubljana To Ljubljana If Things Go Wrong previous hodge- podge system First Last City First Last * The emergency number is 112 for fire, rescue, andambu- of payment that 06:00 22:30 BLED 05:00 22:30 18-22 lance and 113 for police. If possible, find someonewho included tokens, speaks Slovene to help you make the call sincethere is 10:15 20:10 CELJE 04:50 18:10 5-9 coins and photo ID cards. The credit card-sized smart 05:10 22:30 04:23 21:45 50 no guarantee of finding an English speaker onthe other card is similar to those already used in other cities, end.The nearest Casualty Unit (Emergency Room) to the- such as London’s Oyster Card and Paris’ Navigo Pass. 17:20 MURSKA 05:45 1 city center can be found at University Medical Centerat The cards can be purchased for a one-time fee of €2 at SOBOTA Zaloška cesta 2, Ljubljana (D-2) and emergencytreat- many locations including various tobacconists and news- 05:30 23:00 POSTOJNA 06:07 21:10 20 ment is free for members of EU, EEA, andSwitzerland. We stands, tourist offices, the central bus station and LPP 11:35 17:20 MARIBOR 06:52 13:35 3-4 also list local pharmacies, dentists, andother services offices at Bavarski Dvor and Celovška Cesta 160. Credit in the directory. You can find it here. If you find yourself 05:30 23:00 NOVA GORICA 04:45 19:45 15 can be added for any amount between €1-50 at these 06:00 21:35 04:56 19:30 13 in trouble with the police, call yourembassy immedi- same locations as well as at the 24 green Urbanomati ately. The numbers for all embassiescan be found here machines scattered around town - be aware that the 05:30 19:30 05:44 20:44 14 under Foreign Representation in the directory.Useful machines don’t actually sell cards though. When getting 05:15 23:00 04:20 22:15 50 Emergency Words: on the bus simply touch the card to one of the green card 07:10 22:25 05:45 15:28 10 readers at the front entrance and €0.80 will be deducted NA POMOČ! (NAH POH-MOCH) - HELP! 05:30 19:30 KRAJNSKA 05:20 20:20 15 from the card allowing 90 minutes of travel, including GORA gasilci (GAH-SEELT-SEE) - firemen unlimited transfers. Until 31 December technophobes policija (POH-LEET-SEE-AH) - police can still pay with coins, although the cost is €1 and no All buses depart daily. Schedule valid until February 1, 2010. bolnišnica (BOW-NEESH-NEET-SA) - hospital change is given. *Buses per day Castle Tunnel_ Renovated, reopened and sexier than ever

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010 10 Getting around Getting around 11

Sixt C-1/2, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte (OF) 7, tel. (+386) Buses Vinjeta - A Ticket to Drive 1234 46 50, [email protected], www.sixt.si. Cars from €34 per Flight schedule Dozens of regular bus connections are available to ef- day. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 ficiently whisk you to all corners of the country. See also Vinjeta www.dars.si. Slove- - 12:00. Airport office tel. (04) 238 24 14, open 08:00-22:00. City Flights/Week Airlines the national and international bus schedules in this guide. nia requires all motor vehicles Technoplus Bratov Kunovar 6, tel. (+386) 1563 50 Amsterdam 9 JP travelling on Slovenian highways 24/(+386) 041 679 042, fax (+386) 1563 50 25, info@ Athens 3 JP Bus station (Avtobusno Postajališče) C-1, Trg to have a vinjeta (veen-yeh-tah) rentacarplus.si, rentacarplus.si. Cars from 28€ per day. Belgrade 5 JU Osvobodilne Fronte (OF), tel. (+386) 1 234 46 00, fax sticker. This system exists in Thrifty Zgornji Brnik 130 A, [email protected], 19 JP/SN (+386) 1234 46 01, avtobusna.postaja@ap-ljubljana. lieu of tolls, and the vinjeta can www.thrifty.si. Q Airport office tel. (04) 236 57 50, open Copenhagen 4 JP/SK si, www.ap-ljubljana.si. Essentially a large caravan without be easily obtained at nearly all from 07:00-21:00. Cars from €33 per day. Frankfurt 25 JP/LH any wheels, Ljubljana’s temporary central bus station couldn’t gas stations and kiosks. Istanbul 17 JP/TK be easier to use. Enter through one of the doors at either Kiev 3 JP/PS end, buy a ticket from one of the kiosks, and away you go. Yearly/monthly/weekly stickers are €95/30/15 for cars Airport London-LGW 6 JP Some tickets can be bought directly from the driver, but you and yearly/half-yearly/weekly ones are €47.50/25/7.50 Ljubljana airport (Letališče Jožeta Pučnika) Zgornji London-STN 4-7 EZY should always check in the bus station to make sure. The for motorcycles. Also be aware that border police will Brnik 130a, tel. (+386) 42 06 10 00, fax (+386) 42 02 12 Moscow 7 JP/SU bus station operates many national routes as well as regular likely not remind you to purchase a vinjeta when enter- 20, [email protected], www.lju-airport.si. Well connected to Munich 26 JP/LH international services. QOpen 05:00 - 22:30, Sat 05:00 ing the country, but are highly likely to issue you a steep the Balkans and most major European destinations, Ljubljana’s Paris-CDG 16-26 JP/AF - 22:00, Sun 05:30 - 22:30. fine when leaving if you’ve failed to do so. For more info Jože Pučnik Airport, 26km northwest of the city, is as small and Podgorica 6 JP/YM check www.dars.si. efficient as the rest of the country. There’s free wifi for internet Prague 12 OK Car rental addicts, a selection of restaurants and bars, banks, a currency Pristina 11 JP/SK exchange office (open 07:00 - 19:00) and a post office (open Sarajevo 7 JP/SK The speed limit is 50km/hr in built-up areas, 90- AutoRent C-1/2, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte (OF) 5, tel. 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00-12:00, Sun closed). Skopje 11 JP/LH 100km/hr on main roads, 130km/hr on highways. Cars (+386) 1234 46 50, [email protected], www. Stockholm-ARN 4 JP must use headlights at all times and must have a spare rentacarslo.com. Cars from €36 per day. QOpen 08:00 Getting there takes about 30 minutes by taxi (€35-45) or Tirana 7 JP/SK wheel, warning triangle, spare lightbulb, first aid kit and, - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Airport office shuttle (€5-8, schedule is coordinated with flights) and roughly Vienna 21 JP/OS in winter, either snow chains or winter tyres. The alcohol tel. (04) 238 24 14 , open 08:00-22:00. twice as long by bus (€4.10, up to 16 per day between 05:00- limit is 0.05%. The traffic information centre has road Avant H-1, Dunajska 140, tel. (+386) 1589 08 50, 20:00). Check the airport’s website for a complete schedule. Warsaw 4 JP/LO webcams and maps of current traffic problems at www. [email protected], www.nationalcar-slovenia.com. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Open 24hrs, airport information from Zurich 20 JP/LX promet.si. Cars from €35 per day. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 07:00-23:00. Airline codes: AF Air France; EZY EasyJet; JP Adria - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Airport office tel. (04) 589 08 Airways; JU Jat Airways; LH Lufthansa; LX Swiss; OK AGIO rent a car H-1, Celovška cesta 228, tel. (+386) 68, open 08:00 - 22:00. Czech Airlines; OS Austrian Airlines; SK Scandanavian 59 043 719/(+386) 031 727 777, fax (+386) 059 047 Avis C-2, Čufarjeva 2, tel. (+386) 1583 87 72, rez.cent- Airlines Airlines; SN Brussels Airlines; SU Aeroflot; TK Turkish 779, [email protected], [email protected], www.agio.si. [email protected], www.avis.si. Cars from €40 per day. QOpen Adria Airways (JP) H-2, Kuzmičeva 7, tel. (+386) 1369 Airlines; YM Montenegro Airlines. Schedule is valid until Located in the outskirts of the city, Agio offers a full range of 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Airport 10 00, fax (+386) 1436 88 06, [email protected], www. 27 March 2010. vehicles sizes and classes and will deliver your car free of office tel. (04) 23 65 000, open 08:00-22:00. adria.si. Slovenia’s flag carrier. Direct flights to Amsterdam, charge within 30km of the company. They also offer a great Budget Rent a Car B-2, Miklošičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1421 Athens, Barcelona, Birmingham, Brussels, Bucharest, Co- service where you can rent a car with a driver if you’re not 73 40, [email protected], www.budget.si. Cars from penhagen, Dublin, Frankfurt, Instanbul, Kijev, London Gatwick, SAS Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) , tel. (+45) 70 10 so confident behind the wheel or feel like impressing your €40 per day. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Manchester, Moscow, Munich, Ohrid, Oslo, Paris-Charls de 20 00, www.flysas.com. friends. QOpen 8:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 8:00 - 12:00. Aver- Airport office tel. (04) 201 43 00, open 07:00-23:00. Gaulle. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Airport Turkish Airlines (TK) Ljubljana Airport, thyljubljana@ age age of cars is 6 months. Cars from 30€ per day, without Carrent D-1, Štihova 13, tel. (+386) 1433 30 82. Cars from €40 office phone: 04 259 43 38 Open: 05:30-24:00 siol.com, www.turkishairlines.com. Flight to Istanbul. Q additional duties. per day. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Air France (AF) B-3, Igriska 5, tel. (+386) 1244 34 47, Airport office tel. (04) 206 16 80. Atet H-2, Derčeva 4, tel. (+386) 1513 70 17, info@atet. Europcar C-2, Dalmatinova 15, tel. (+386) 31 38 20 52, fax (+386) 1244 34 48, [email protected], www. si, www.atet.si. Cars from €30 per day. QOpen 08:00 [email protected], sl.europcar.si. Cars from €36 airfrance.si. Flights to Paris CDG. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. Airport office tel. (04) 201 per day. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Sun 08:00 Closed Sat, Sun. Airport office tel. (04) 20 61 674 . Open Travel Agencies 98 48, open 08:00-22.00. - 12:00. Airport office tel. (04) 236 79 90, open 08:00-21:00. two hours before flight. Avantura B-2, Slovenska 40, tel. (+386) 1242 00 00, fax Hertz B/C-2, Trdinova 9, tel. (+386) 1434 01 47, Austrian Airlines (OS) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386) (+386) 1242 00 04, [email protected], www.avantura.si. [email protected], www.hertz.si. Cars from €38 per day. 42 02 01 22, [email protected], www.aua.com. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun. International bus schedule QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Flights to Vienna. QOpen 06:30 - 18:00, Sat 06:30 - 15:30, Collegium B-2, Kersnikova 5, tel. (+386) 1234 49 Airport office tel. (04) 201 69 99, open 08:00-22:00. Sun 06:30 - 10:00. 70/(+386) 040 194 194, fax (+386) 1234 49 78, info@ From Ljubljana To Ljubljana Brussels Airlines (SN) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386) collegium.si, www.collegium.si. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, First Last City First Last * 42 06 16 56, www.brusselsairlines.com. Flights to Brus- Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Q BANJA LUKA 13:30 13:30 1-3 Taxis sels. Open 16:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Kažipot B-2, Čopova 5a, tel. (+386) 1425 44 91, 12:57 20:20 Czech Airlines (OK) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386) 42 06 [email protected], www.kazipottours.si. QOpen 09:00 10:00 22:25 BELGRADE 00:50 21:00 2-3 Ljubljana’s taxis are safe, clean and generally reliable. 17 50, www.czechairlines.com. Flights to Prague. QOpen - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. 05:10 05:10 BOLOGNA 15:20 15:20 1 The starting rate is €1, the rate per kilometre between 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Only by the time of flight is working Kompas C-2, Pražakova 4, tel. (+386) 1200 63 33, €1-1.70, with no extra charge at night. Waiting costs on Saturday from 05:30-07:00 and Sunday from 13:00-15:00. [email protected], www.kompas.si. QOpen 09:00 19:45 19:45 BRNO 16:20 16:20 0-1 €15-20 per hour. Ordering a taxi by phone will get you Easyjet (EZY) Ljubljana Airport, tel. +44 87 06 00 00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. 05:10 08:15 MESTRE 11:30 17:10 2 lower rates. 00, www.easyjet.com. Flights to London Stansted. Q Airport Mondial Travel B-2, Kersnikova 5, tel. (+386) 1234 49 (VENICE) Metro Taxi Tel. (+386) 80 11 90. office tel. (04) 206 16 77. Open two hours before flight. 72/(+386) 040 192 192, [email protected], www. 18:30 18:30 MUNICH 19:45 19:45 0-1 Protocol Tel. (+386) 41 62 15 04, info@protocol. JAT Airways (JU) C-2, Slomškova 1, tel. (+386) 1231 mondialtravel.sI. QOpen 09. 20:00 20:00 SARAJEVO 15:15 20:40 1-2 si, www.protocol.si. 43 40, [email protected], www.jat.com. Flights to Relax B-2, Slovenska 51, tel. (+386) 1234 56 90, www.re- 20:45 20:45 SOFIA 15:30 15:30 1 Rumeni Taxi Tel. (+386) 41 73 18 31, info@ Belgrade. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Airport lax.si. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. rumenitaxi.com, www.rumenitaxi.com. QOpen office tel. (04) 206 17 80. Open two hours before flight. Roundabout Pot Draga Jakopiča 6, tel. (+386) 41 786 15:30 16:00 SKOPJE 15:30 17:00 1-2 00:00 - 24:00. Lufthansa B-2, Gosposvetska 8, tel. (+386) 1434 72 168, fax (+386) 1 5611 039, [email protected], www. 05:10 06:35 TRIEST 14:00 19:30 1-2 Taxi Društvo Ljubljana Tel. (+386) 1234 90 00, 46, [email protected], www.lufthansa.de. No Lufthansa roundabout.si. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 01:00 01:00 ZAGREB 16:00 16:00 1 [email protected], www.taxi-ljubljana.si. flights to and from Ljubljana, but they do have an office selling STA Trg Ajdovščina 1, tel. (+386) 14 39 16 90/(+386) 41 Taxi Intertours Tel. (+386) 1520 97 04, info@ airline tickets. QOpen 08:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 61 27 11, fax (+386) 14 39 16 95, [email protected], All buses depart daily. Schedule valid until February 1, taxi-intertours.si, www.taxi-intertours.si. Malév (MA) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386) 42 06 16 www.sta-lj.com/. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 2010. *Buses per day Taxi Laguna Tel. (+386) 80 11 17. 65, www.malev.hu. Flights to Budapest. QOpen 08:00 Tao C-2, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 5, tel. (+386) 1230 63 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 20, [email protected], www.tao-tt.si.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010 12 Basics history 13

Between the wars Drinking Basic data After the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire Alcohol is only sold to people over 18, and after 21:00 it Slovenia becomes part of the State, and then the cannot be bought in stores. Population Kingdom of the , Croats and Serbs on December Slovenia 2,053,355 (2009) 1, 1918, which subsequently becomes the Kingdom of Ljubljana 266,845 (2004) Yugoslavia in 1929. The Slovenian architect Jože Plečnik Electricity (1872-1957) builds many of his most important buildings Area in the capital between the two World Wars. Slovenia Like most European countries, Slovenia’s voltage is 220 volts 20,273 square kilometres AC, 50 Hz, and the country uses European two-pin plugs. is occupied by the Italians, Germans and Hungarians during WWII. In 1945, Croatian-born Tito, whose mother Ethnic composition was born in Slovenia, establishes the Socialist Federal Slovenian 83%, Former Yugoslav minorities 5.3%, Money Hungarian, Albanian, Roma, Italian and others 11.7% Republic of Yugoslavia. Slovenia adopted the euro in January 2007. Euro coins come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents, 1 Official languages Socialism & Yugoslavia and 2 euros, while banknotes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, Slovenian, Italian, Hungarian Slovenia develops as the richest and most Westernised 200 and 500 euros. The Slovenian side of the euro coins of the Yugoslavian states. After the so-called Tito-Stalin are decorated with among other things storks, Mount Local time split of 1948, Yugoslavia becomes much less oppressive. , Lippizaner horses, a man sowing stars and a Jože Central European (GMT + 1hr) Yugoslavs enjoy many freedoms and are even allowed to Plečnik design. travel out of the region and work in the West. Tito dies Longest river in Ljubljana on the afternoon of May 4, 1980. Relative (221km in Slovenia) freedom and prosperity doesn’t stop the region from Politics suffering the same blows as the rest of the Communist Highest mountain world, and Slovenia becomes the first country to declare The Republic of Slovenia is a parliamentary democracy. Triglav 2,864m. The president, Dr DaniloTürk, was elected in 2007. Borut independence from Yugoslavia, officially becoming independent on June 25, 1991 after the population votes Pahor has been the prime minister since 2008. The next Borders parliamentary elections will be in September 2012. The 318km, 280km, Hungary 102km, in a referendum in favour of the move on December 23, government consists of the PM and 15 ministers, of which 670km 1990. two are without portfolio. Independence & Beyond After a slightly shaky start, Slovenia establishes itself as Religion Smoking Town Hall at twilight the tiger of the former Yugoslavia. A shrewd combination Although Slovenians are traditionally Roman Catholic, the Cigarettes can’t be sold to people under 18. Slovenia recently of nationalist pride and business acumen keeps much of most recent Eurobarometer Poll in 2005 found that only 37% banned smoking from public indoor spaces except in special Evidence suggests that people first populated the area the country’s industry in local hands. Slovenia joins the of the population believe in a god, with 16% atheists and the smoking areas in offices, hotels and bars. known today as Slovenia as far back as 250,000BC. People UN on May 22, 1992 and the EU on May 1, 2004, several rest of them believing in ‘something’. were known to have settled in the area around Ljubljana by weeks before joining NATO. The local currency, the tolar, around 400BC when the Celts started arriving. is replaced by the euro on January 1, 2007. At the end of Tipping the year, Slovenia becomes a member of the Schengen Exchange rates It’s not traditional to tip in Slovenia, though a reward of about 10% Roman times countries, and in 2008 proudly takes over the EU for good service in a restaurant or bar is always appreciated. With the expansion of Julius Caesar’s empire comes the presidency for half a year. 1 EUR € = 1.49 US$ = 0.90 UK£ = 1.51 CHF establishment of the Roman town Emona on the left bank = 1.63 AU$ = 132 ¥ = 10.26 CNY Toilets of the Ljubljanica, of which some remains can still be found In the News (Nov 23, 2009) in today’s Ljubljana. Thriving for a relatively short period of Clean and pleasant public toilets can be found at the Dragon time, Emona is abandoned some time during the 6th century After years of negotiations (or petty bickering depend- Bridge (Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun), in the Plečnik AD, and the region is invaded several times by the Huns and ing on one’s general opinion of politics), Slovenia and Passageway (Open 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun) and at the other early Germanic tribes. Croatia were finally able to agree a framework for Market values (Open 07:00 - 21:00). international arbitration to solve their long-running Medieval Ljubljana border dispute - which had seen EU member Slovenia Compared to the rest of Western and Central Europe, Ljubljana is first mentioned in writing in 1144. The now primarily essentially put a hold on Croatian accession talks for prices in Slovenia are still fairly competitive despite Visas Slavic city is invaded by the Habsburgs, who control the city and much of the past year. The agreement was signed on noticeable increases since the introduction of the Euro Many foreigners simply need a passport or ID card to enter Slovenia almost uninterrupted up until WWI. The city expands 4 November and ratified by the Croatian parliament in 2007. Here are some typical everyday products and Slovenia. Those requiring a visa will be able to travel freely during the first few hundred years of this period and the basic on 20 November, however, Slovenes will be voting prices: between the Schengen-agreement countries for a limited shape of the Old Town as it is today is laid out. on the issue at a special referendum to be held amount of time, usually 90 days. Always check these details sometime during the first quarter of 2010. At stake Product Price with a Slovenian embassy or consulate. Further information 16th to 18th Centuries is a tiny sliver of land on the Istrian peninsula and Slo- McDonald’s Big Mac €2.40 can be found at www.mzz.gov.si. Protestant influence grows with the Reformation and continued venia’s free access (or lack thereof) to international Slice of pizza € 1.80 Austrian occupation. The first book in Slovenian is published in waters. Slice of burek € 2.00 Climate 1550. The city is seriously damaged by the earthquake of 1511 Cup of coffee € 1.10 and much of the city is rebuilt in the Baroque style. The other big news of the past couple months Bottle of name brand vodka € 12.50 Temperature, °C Rainfall, mm came courtesy of the right foot of Slovene striker 19th Century Decent bottle of local wine € 3.50 30 150 Zlatko Dedić, who scored the only goal in Slovenia’s Bottle of local beer in a shop € 0.90 visits the city in 1809 and makes it the capital of 1-0 upset of Russia on 18 November in Maribor the Ilirske province. As with many occupied countries in this Pint of beer in a pub € 2.40 20 120 and secured the national team’s place at the Pack of cigarettes € 2.50 part of the world, a national awakening takes place during the 2010 World Cup in South Africa. The surprise vic- 10 Single bus ride € 1.00 19th century. Slovenian becomes Slovenia’s official language, tory led to several days of celebrations across the Movie ticket € 4.90 90 the first college is founded, and the city grows into the shape 0 country, including an impromptu street party in Postcard € 0.30 and form it more or less is to this day. Ljubljana’s importance is Ljubljana that lasted till sunrise the day after the boosted by the arrival of the first railway in 1849. After much of Litre of petrol € 1.10 -10 60 match and seemingly left the entire city with a col- Taxi ride across town € 5.00 the city is destroyed by the huge earthquake of 1895, the city lective hangover. Fine for parking illegally € 40 -20 J F M A M J J A S O N D 30 is almost completely rebuilt at the start of the 20th century. The Old Town is preserved practically intact.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010 14 language quick picks 15

Slovene is a Southern Slavic language with a 25-letter Post alphabet. It is closely related to Serbian and Croatian, One foreign stamp, please - Eno znamko za tujino, prosim Ljubljana Distilled and also shares many words with other Slavic languages. (Eh-no z-nahm-koh zah too-YEE-noh pro- SEEM) Although some words and letter combinations may appear For postcard - Za razglednico (Zah raz-GLEHD-neet-so) Eat Drink Do unpronounceable at first glance, Slovene is actually a fairly For letter - Za pismo (Zah pees-moh) phonetic language with very few irregularities - although Like A Stari Tišler (p. 34) Only a short Dvorni Bar (p.54) This large L-shaped Do what most locals do in the letters L and V can do some strange things depending Signs Local walk from the main train station, adventure is a pleasant café during the day the long summer evenings, on their position in a word. Luckily, most Slovenes speak Open - odprto (Ohd-PURT-oh) Old Tišler’s has been serving up and the city’s trendiest wine bar by night. or at weekends, and head for either English, Italian or German embarrassingly well, Closed - zaprto (Zah- PURT-oh) traditional Slovene cuisine for There’s a swanky jazzy area at one end the enormous Tivoli Park. so chances are you won’t have to worry about any com- Entrance - vhod (oo-hod) over a century. They specialise for more wine-oriented patrons, while the Almost as big as the city munication problems. However, as with most countries, Exit - izhod (eez-hod) in hearty soups, stews and gou- other side is a little more geared towards itself the park strectches attempting to use a little bit of the local language can go Push – rini (ree-nee) lashes, which means it’s a good the restaurant crowd. With upwards of 100 for kilometers into the hills a long way towards winning over your hosts. Even the odd Pull – vleci (oo-LETS-ee) place to try bograč, a Slovene varieties of wine in stock it’s a great place and is packed with things to ‘hvala’ and ‘prosim’ won’t go unnoticed. favourite that is essentially a bowl to sample local vintages if you don’t have do. You might also consider Travelling of meat masquerading as stew. time to trek out to one of Slovenia’s wine a trip out to the Postojna Pronunciation Bus - avtobus (OW-toh-booze) Daily lunch specials are a good growing regions, and organised tastings Cave (see page 65) of which c - as in pizza Train - vlak (v-LOCK) value starting at €5, and there are held every second Wednesday from locals are rightfully proud: it e - as in egg I am looking for.... - Iščem (EESH-chem) ... are a half dozen rooms available 20:00-22:00. is the largest cave of its kind g - as in go One ticket, please - Eno vstopnico, prosim (Eh-noh oo-stop- upstairs. in Europe. j - like y in yogurt NEETZ-oh pro- SEEM) v - like u in tuna On the Konkurenca (p. 44) Kebabs, Kavarna in slaščičarna Zvezda (p. 48) With the Ljubljana card č - like c in cello Times Cheap burgers and burek to eat in or a bustling café frequented by a battalion (€12.52) you get 3 days š - like sh in ship Now - zdaj (z-dai) take away around the clock just of clients from students to pearl-laden worth of free rides on the ž - like s in pleasure Later - kasneje (kaz-NAY-yeh) southwest of the train and bus old ladies. Zvezda’s décor leans in the city bus (normally €1 a Today - danes (dahn-es) stations. Look for the blinding yel- direction of your classic Buddha lounge, ride) as well as free admis- Basics Tomorrow - jutri (yoo-tree) low and green façade for some of with a scattering of Oriental statues and sion to the city museums Do you speak English? - Govorite angleško (Goh-voh- REE-tay Yesterday - včeraj (oo-cheh-ray) the cheapest eats in town. some fine brown velvet wallpaper. The and galleries. You’ll be Ahn-GLESH-ko) ? In the morning - zjutraj (z-YOO-try) coffee is strong enough to wake the dead, thanking yourself all the I don’t understand - Ne razumem (Nuh ra-ZOO-mehm) In the afternoon - popoldne (poh-POLD-neh) and the cakes are some of the best and way to the bank. Where is the toilet? WC? - Kje je stranišče (Key-yay strahn- In the evening - zvečer (z-veh-chehr) stickiest in town. EESH-chay) ? WC (Vay-tsay)? At night - ponoči (poh-NOH-chee) With The Jurman (p. 40) This popular fam- Cacao If you like ice-cream, and who Ljubljana’s fantastic ZOO Good Morning - Dobro Jutro (DOH-broh YOO- troh) Family ily-friendly gostilna packs in the doesn’t, then this is your place. Along with will keep the kids happy Good Day - Dober Dan (DOH-behr Dahn) Restaurant Talk locals with a menu that seems the usual coffee, tea, wine and beer, Cacao for hours. There are places Good Night - Lahko noč (Lah-koh noh-ch) Menu, please - Meni, prosim (MEH-ni pro-SEEM) to have a bit of everything and a serves up scoops of ice-cream which you to pet certain animals (not Yes - Ja (Yah) Bill, please - Račun, prosim (Rah-CHOON pro- SEEM) somewhat kitschy atmosphere can enjoy indoors or out on the terrace. Fruit the lions of course though) No - Ne (Nay) Do you have vegetarian food? - Imate vegetarijansko that manages to include knights, and ice-cream is around €5 a serving and if and all in all there might well Hello - Živjo (Jeeve-yoh) hrano (EE-mah-tay veh-geh-tay-ree-ahn-sko h-rah- a waterfall and an video arcade all you want a bit of a kick with your cream, go be more animals in here Thank you - Hvala (HVAL-a) noh)? under the same roof. There’s also for one of the alcohol-spiked varieties such than there are people in Please - Prosim (PRO-seem) a children’s play area outside on as Rio (Baccardi and blue curacao) or Brasil Ljubljana (probably…). The Excuse me/Sorry – Oprostite (Oh-PROS-tee-tay) Bar Talk the astroturfed patio. It’s a good (tequila, minus the worm). There are also zoo’s superb layout makes Pardon me (asking for help) – Prosim (pro-SEEM) One coffee, please - Eno kavo prosim (EH-noh KAH-voh budget-conscious option and the plenty of child-friendly shakes and servings it easy to navigate. You will My name is....- Jaz sem (Yahz sem) ... pro-SEEM) food isn’t half-bad either. available but if you are planning on going to find it on the far side of I am from... - Jaz sem iz (Yahz sem iz)... One beer, please - (Name of beer), prosim (pro-SEEM) Rio you might want to bring the babysitter. Tivoli Park. Cheers! - Na zdravje (Nah zuh-DRAW-wee-ay)! Days What’s going on? - Kaj dogaja? (kai DO-ga-ya) Over Pri Vitezu (p. 42) Exquisite restau- Top: Eat & Party (p. 48) Located on the Cankarjev Dom (p. 23) Monday - ponedeljek (POH-nuh-dehl-yek) Let’s party! - Žurajmo! (zhur-AI-mo) The Top rant, widely recognized as one of top floor of a commercial building in the is host to many premier Tuesday - torek (TOR-ek) You have beautiful eyes - Imate lepe oči (EE-mah-tay leh- the city’s best. Though expensive heart of the city centre, this recently- national and internation- Wednesday - sreda (Sray-dah) peh oh-chee) (and we mean expensive, you opened venue is already the odds-on al musical acts, dance Thursday - četrtek (chuh-TUR-tuck) You’re hot - Si lepa (see LAY-pa) can spend a fortune here) it still favourite to win the prestigious “Most companies, and theater Friday - petek (peh-tuck) Where are you from? - Iz kje si? (iz kye see) offers great value for money to Literally Named Club in Slovenia” award, ensembles all year-round. Saturday - sobota (soh-BOH-tah) Can I have your number?- Lahko dobim tvojo telefonsko people for whom high class food and is looking to compete internationally Check out our culture & Sunday - nedelja (nuh-DEHL-yah) številko? (Law-koh doh-BEEM t-voy-yo teh-leh-FOHN-sko is paramount. We recommend later this year. Local DJs spin a good variety events section (p. 31) and shteh-VEEL-koh)? everything on the menu, as well of music Wednesday to Saturday. find a great show. Questions See-you, bye! - Ajde, čao (ai-dai, chow) as the daily lunch menu which your Who? - Kdo?(K-doh) waiter will recite to you. What? - Kaj?(Kai) Where? - Kje ? (Key-yay) Street smarts Slightly Running Sushi & Wok (p. 41) Get yourself to Cupiterija (p. 38). Part café, Mesto (p. 24) When? - Kdaj (K-dai) Strange When Slovenia’s first conveyor belt part bar, part restaurant: Čupiterija, or Hijo is an autonomous social How much does it cost? - Koliko stane (KOH-lee-koh STAH-neh)? Slovenians usually leave out the word for street in sushi place opened we had mixed de Puta as it is also known, is 100% original. centre created when artists conversation, so while your destination may officially feelings: a second option to get Located on Mestni Trg a couple doors down took over former army bar- Places be called ‘Poljanska ulica’, you can survive by just saying our raw fish fix was welcomed, but from Town Hall, they serve lunch Monday racks. The place is deco- Croatia - Hrvaška (Hurr-VASH-ka) Poljanska we were a bit leery about the all- to Saturday from noon to 16:00. In lieu of rated in colorful graffiti and England - Anglija (Ahn-glee-yah) important freshness department. menus, daily lunch specials are scrawled artwork and serves as the Germany - Nemčija (Nem-CHEE-yah) Avtocesta (aw-toh-ses-tah) Highway But as far as we can tell it’s OK. (in both English and Slovene) across a gi- home for a number of art Hungary - Madžarska (Mad-jar-skah) Cesta (tses-tah) Boulevard Everything more or less tastes like ant blackboard out front, and often include organizations and rock Ireland - Irska (Ear-skah) Most (mohst) Bridge it should and there’s a good variety several pasta, steak and salad selections clubsGromka and Klub Netherlands - Nizozemska (NEE-zo-zem-skah) Nabrežje (nah-breh-dgee-eh) Embankment of dishes meandering around on along with a couple random choices like Channel Zero. Scotland - Škotska (Shkot-skah) Trg (teh-rg) Square separate hot and cold belts. chicken curry or artichoke risotto. Venice - Benetke (Behn-et-keh) Ulica (oo-leet-sah) Street Vienna - Dunaj (Doo-nigh)

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010 16 Culture & Events

The one-time home of the Austrian composer Gustav Buldogi (Slo) - punk Mahler, Ljubljana continues to inspire, nurture and produce Gala Hala a wide and eclectic mix of creative individuals and groups. 3 Dec 2009, 21:00 Whether it’s the work of the Slovenian artists Richard Jakopič or Ivana Kobilca you’re here to see, or if you simply The Kilimanjaro Darkjazz Ensemble & Bong-Ra! want to watch the latest Hollywood film, Ljubljana should (Netherlands) - electro-acoustic have you covered. Kino Šiška 3 Dec 2009, 21:00

Music Alpsko Mediteranska Digital Rave Internacionala Smetnjakova As both the cultural and student capital of the country, K4 Ljubljana regularly hosts a wide range of musical perform- 4 Dec 2009 ances from classical and world music to punk and experi- mental noise-rock to pretty much everything in between, Valient Thorr (USA) - punk, rock and manages to attract more than its fair share of big Kino Šiška name international acts. 4 Dec 2009, 20:00

Rok Predin (Slo) - blues, pop rock Braco Doblekar Dom Big Band & Nina Strnad - jazz Cankarjev Dom Jazz Klub Gajo 1 Dec 2009, 20:30 4 Dec 2009, 21:30

Sebastjan Podbregar, tenor (Slo), Martina Burger, Fakofbolan (Croatia) - punk soprano (Slo) - classical Gala Hala The Slovenian Philharmonic 5 Dec 2009 2 Dec 2009, 19:30 Ana Majiljan Vocal Ethic Trio - traditional Armenian Josipa Lisac (Croatia) - pop The Slovenian Philharmonic Kino Šiška 6 Dec 2009, 18:00 2 Dec 2009, 20:00 Polona Vetrih, vokal (Slo) & Sonja Pahor, piano (Slo): Tweak Bird (USA) - carnaval, latino History of Love Menza pri Koritu Cankarjev Dom 2 Dec 2009 7 Dec 2009, 20:00

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Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com 18 Culture & Events

Ysaye String Quartet (France) - classical Radio-Television Slovenia Symphony Orchestra - The Slovenian Philharmonic clasical music Best of 8 Dec 2009, 19:30 Cankarjev Dom 10 Dec 2009, 20:00 Finale in Black - black metal 1 New Year’s 2 Channel Zero Tinkara Kovač (Slo) - pop, rock 9 Dec 2009 Kino Šiška 4 3 10 Dec 2009, 20:30 Eve The Stroj Open air events Kino Šiška 11 Dec 2009, 21:00 December 2009 in Ljubljana - a programme of festive events Ale Möller Band (Sweden) - world Old city centre 2010 Cankarjev Dom 3 Dec 2009 - 2 Jan 2010 11 Dec 2009, 20:15

St Nicholas Fair Ensemble Shanbehzadeh (Iran) - traditional Iranian Prešernov Trg Cankarjev Dom We were having trouble deciding where the best place to ring in 2010 in Slovenia was, so back in October we opened 3 - 6 Dec 2009, 10:00-20:00 11 Dec 2009, 20:15 the polls and asked for your opinion on the matter. Well, all the votes have been counted, and the winner is, perhaps

unsurprisingly, Prešernov Trg in the centre of Old Ljubljana (with 25% of the votes), which was able to fend off a People, Let’s Turn on the Lights! Goran Bregović & Guča Prešernov Trg Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre late surge from Maribor (23%) and a respectable showing by the folks in Bled (15%). Ljubljana’s Inbox (10%) had the 3 Dec 2009, 17:00 12 December 2009, 20:00 best showing of any indoor venue, and the old standby, one’s own home (6%) rounded out the top five. We’d like to

St. Nicholas Procession thank everyone who participated in the voting, as well as the individual competitors - all of whom generously donated Klapa Subrenum (Croatia) - traditional Dalmatian prizes for us to disperse amongst the voters - as well as our media partners, who helped us with promotion. Old city centre Cankarjev Dom 5 Dec 2009, 17:00 12 Dec 2009, 19:00 On a related note, between now and the last week of January, voting will be open to determine the Best of 2010 for our special 10th anniversary issue in February. Categories will range from hotels and restaurants to music venues Concerts by primary school choirs Vlado Kreslin (Slo) with guests - folk rock and cultural centres to burek and beer to strip clubs and sex shops. Check out Bestof.si to cast your vote, view the Mestni Trg Cankarjev Dom 8 - 21 Dec 2009, 17:00 14 - 16 Dec 2009, 19:30 current results or just find out more info.

Festive Book Fair Air (France) - electro pop Miklošičev Park 1. Prešernov Trg in Ljubljana: No real surprise here. Prešeren Square is generally considered to be the heart and Dvorana Tivoli soul of not only Ljubljana, but all of Slovenia. It also draws the largest crowds come New Year’s Eve, most of whom 10 - 31 Dec 2009, 10:00-21:00 14 Dec 2009, 20:00 will be sipping on mulled wine or warmed schnapps while they wait for midnight and the accompanying fireworks Christmas concert Christmas concert: Oto Pesner, Pro Anima Singers, display from the castle. Mestni Trg Primož Grašič Quartet - jazz, gospel 24 Dec 2009, 17:00 2. Trg Svobode in Maribor: The central square in Slovenia’s second city nearly topped Ljubljana as the place to be 14 Dec 2009, 20:00 Grandpa Frost processions come 31 December, but fell short in the end. But you can rest assured that they’ll be a huge turnout nonetheless, Old city centre Noctiferia - death metal with a full schedule including numerous musical act, an appearance by the mayor of course fireworks lasting till five 26 - 30 Dec 2009, Kino Šiška in the morning. 15 Dec 2009, 20:00 Children’s events Prešernov Trg Rambo Amadeus 3. Circle of Friendship in Bled: Slovenia’s picturesque little alpine lake town may be the third most popular place to 26 - 30 Dec 2009, 11:00-13:00 & 16:00- Kino Šiška spend New Year’s Eve, but they can take heart in the fact that Bled is arguably the most popular tourist destination 18:00 17 Dec 2009, 21:00 the other 364 days of the year. The official programme, which includes lots of activities for the kids, a torch-lit walk Street Theatre Festival Eskobars (Slo) - rock around the lake and a brass band in the evening, actually takes place a day early on 30 December, so it’s possible to Cobblers’ Bridge Orto Bar combine with one or more of the other events taking place. 26 - 30 Dec 2009, 19:00-21:00 23 Dec 2009, 22:00

New Year’s Eve Celebrations at Križanke 4. Lady Salome New Year’s Eve Extravaganza at Inbox in Ljubljana: Considering that it was up against entire Križanke Summer Theatre cities, the only club to feature on our list had an excellent showing with 10% of the votes. After last year’s critically 31 Dec 2009, 21:00-03:00 acclaimed performance (which is no small feat for a club that plays mainly house music), Inbox has invited back Lady New Year’s Eve Celebrations at Mestni Trg Salome to host once again. More special guests, celebrity sightings and one hell of a party are all guaranteed. Mestni Trg 31 Dec 2009, 21:00-03:00 5. Home: Some people have to work the next day - sad but true, we know.

New Year’s Eve Celebrations at Prešernov Trg Prešernov Trg The best of the rest: Taverna in Koper (6%) Penzion Tripič in Bohinj (5%) Rožmarin in Maribor (2%) 31 Dec 2009, 21:00-03:00 Hotel Krek in Bled (2%) Grand Hotel Union in Ljubljana (2%) Hotel Jezero in Bohinj (1%)

Fireworks display launched from Castle Hill 31 Dec 2009, 24:00 At the symphony Peter Eberts

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com 20 Culture & Events Ticket box: 030 310 110cu l ·ture www.kinosiska.si & Events 21 New Year’s Concert: Uroš Perić, vocal, piano, The Bluenote Quartet & The Pearlettes: A tribute to Ray Charles Exhibitions Grand hotel Union 31 Dec 2009, 20:00 Under the Napoleonic Eagle: 200th Anniversary of the Foundation of the Good for Cows (USA) - noise, jazz National Museum of Slovenia (Metelkova Street) Klub Gromka 14 Oct 2009 - 28 Feb 2010 18 Jan 2010 Antonio Živkovič (Slo) - retrospective exhibition of Ian Bostridge, tenor (UK) & Julius Drake, piano (UK) photographs The Slovenian Philharmonic City Art Museum 19 Jan 2010, 19:30 16 Oct - 13 Dec 2009 DECEMBER 2009 Bonecrusher Tour - death metal Rihard Jakopič and his Art Pavilion: Homage to the Kino Šiška Master 19 Jan 2009 City Museum of Ljubljana 27 Oct 2009 - 24 Jan 2010 2. 12., at 20:00 Slovenian Chamber Choir - classical music The Slovenian Philharmonic Dušan Tršar (Slo) - retrospective sculpture 3. 12., at 21:00 JOSIPA LISAC 24 Jan 2010, 19:00 exhibition Cankarjev Dom Michael Bolton (USA) - pop 3 Nov - 15 Dec 2009 KILIMANJARO DARKJAZZ ENSEMBLE Dvorana Tivoli 25 Jan 2010, 21:00 Tihomir Pinter (Slo): Treasure - photographs 4. 12., at 21:00 & BONG-RA Galerija Fotografija 5 Nov - 30 Dec 2009 VALIENT THORR Cinema Tao G. Vrhovec Sambolec (Slo): Virtual mirror 7. 12., at 21:00 opening act MUŠKAT HAMBURG Gay and Lesbian Film Festival 2009 - Rain Kinodvor Cankarjev Dom, Mala galerija 28 Nov - 6 Dec 2009 5 Nov - 6 Dec 2009 RX:TX

Animateka - 6th animated film festival Werner Schuster (Austria): Vision - photographs (Yanoosh, Errorist, Octex) Kinodvor KUD France Prešeren 9. 12., at 21:00 7 - 13 Dec 2009 10 Nov - 9 Dec 2009 10. 12., at 20:30 ELVIS JACKSON 11. 12., at 21:00 TINKARA KOVAČ 12. 12., at 20:00 THE STROJ Closing night of the international 15. 12., at 20:00 ANIMATEKA festival NOCTIFERIA 17. 12., at 21:00 opening act MORDENOM and DICKLESS TRACY RAMBO AMADEUS

3 8 9 1 2 6 2 0 0 0 2 5 7 MUZEJ REVOLUCIJE ZABRANJENO PUŠENJE

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010 22 Culture & Events culture & Events 23

Different Galič (Slo): A retreospective exhibition of The one-time home of the Austrian composer Gustav Exhibition and Convention Centre (Gospodar- Štefan Galič - paintings, graphics Mahler, Ljubljana continues to inspire, nurture and produce sko Razstavišče) C-1, Dunajska 18, tel. (+386) International Centre of Graphic Arts a wide and eclectic mix of creative individuals and groups. 1300 26 00, fax (+386) 1300 26 28, info@gr-sejem. 11 Nov 2009 - 10 Jan 2010 Whether it’s the work of the Slovenian artists Richard si, www.gr-sejem.si. Congresses, fairs and other large Jakopič or Ivana Kobilca you’re here to see, or if you events. Nace Škoda (Slo): Mon ami, My French - simply want to watch the latest Hollywood film, Ljubljana Festivalna Dvorana H-2, Vilharjeva 11, tel. (+386) photographs provides everything you need and more besides. For more 1234 82 00, [email protected], www.pionirski- Galerija Loterije Slovenije cultural information - including museums, art galleries and dom.si. A large concert and event hall built by none other 11 Nov - 11 Dec 2009 churches - take a look at the Sightseeing section of this than local lad Plečnik. guide. Hala Tivoli A-1, Celovška 25, tel. (+386) 1430 67 50, Jelka Kovačević (Serbia) - video [email protected], www.zavod-tivoli.si. City Art Museum Philharmonic (Slovenska Filharmonija) B-3, 16 Nov - 6 Dec 2009 Cinemas Kongresni Trg 10, tel. (+386) 1241 08 00, info@ Foreign films are screened in the original language with filharmonija.si, www.filharmonija.si. A century old in A Night at the Opera - An Exclusive Tour Through the Slovenian subtitles, except for children’s films which are 2008, the esteemed Philharmonic Orchestra performs Postcards usually dubbed. Aside from the largest blockbusters, films regularly with Lebanese-born chief conductor George National Museum of Slovenia tend to open with significant lag with respect to larger Pehlivanian and various guest conductors. QOpen 18 Nov 2009 - 17 Jan 2010 markets, so don’t be surprised to see posters advertising 07:00 - 22:00. something realeased months earlier in you own country. Istvàn Orosz (Hungary) - illustrations Tickets cost approximately €5. Galerija Avla NLB Cultural Centres 19 Nov 2009 - 14 Jan 2010 Kino Dvor C-2, Kolodvorska 13, tel. (+386) 1239 22 To be informed on what’s going on in town, cultural centres 13, [email protected], www.kinodvor.org. provide up to date information on events, festivals, work- Zoran Mušič: Public and private collections in Kinoklub Vič A-3, Trg Mladinskih Delovnih Brigad 6, tel. shops and more. Slovenia (+386) 1241 84 11, www.kolosej.si. Recently renovated, Ljubljana Museum of Modern Art this is a charming cinema to visit for a mix of Hollywood and Cankarjev dom A-3, Prešernova 10, tel. (+386) 1241 24 Nov 2009 - 28 Feb 2010 other films. 71 00, [email protected], www.cd-cc.si. This complex from Kinoteka C-2, Miklošičeva 28, tel. (+386) 1547 15 the early 1980s is a major venue for concerts, theatre, dance, Tao G. Vrhovec Sambolec (Slo) - installation 80, www.kinoteka.si. The place for non-Hollywood, art film, exhibitions and congresses. Galerija ŠKUC house and European films. Be sure to check the spoken Goethe-Institut B-3, Trg Republike 3, tel. (+386) 1476 25 Nov - 13 Dec 2009 language beforehand. 37 25, [email protected], www.goethe.de/ Kolosej J-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 1520 55 00, ins/si/lju. The German cultural centre: language courses, This Merry Day of Culture - cultural institutions’ open www.kolosej.si. A big multiscreen cinema showing popular a library with newspapers and CDs, exhibitions and other door day films inside the BTC shopping area. events. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00, Thu 13:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 Various location - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 3 Dec 2009 Institut Français B-3, Breg 12, tel. (+386) 1200 05 Concert Halls 00, www.institutfrance.si. The French cultural institute Vanja Bučan (Slo): Fools and Follies - Top-end concerts are also often held at . offers language courses, exhibitions, films and other events. photographs There’s also a library with newspapers, films and music. Q Galerija Photon Cvetličarna Mediapark J-1, Kranjčeva 20, tel. (+386) Open Mon & Tues 10:00-18:00, Fri 10:00-14:00. Closed 4 Dec 2009 - 8 Jan 2010 59 02 63 27, [email protected], www.tntevents.net. Wed, Thur, Sat & Sun. More a concert hall than a club, nonetheless Cvetličarna is Instituto Cervantes (Spanish cultural institute) Joachim Lothar Gartner (Austria), Barbara Höller a good place to check out on Friday nights. At other times C-4, Privoz 11, tel. (+386) 14 21 06 84, fax (+386) (Austria), Hannes Mlenek (Austria), Gerjinde it opens to host local and foreign bands, often big name 14 21 06 85, [email protected], www. Thuma (Austria), Walter Weer (Austria) - group ones, but on Fridays you can enter for free before midnight cervantes.es. The Spanish institute has no library but exhibition and dance to disco or house, mingling and jostling with the does offer language courses and organises events. Q City Art Museum mainly student crowd. The venue itself is big but beyond that Open Mon & Tues 12:00-18:00, Fri 12:00-15:00. Closed 21 Dec 2009 - 15 Jan 2010 nothing to write home about, but the atmosphere is usually Wed, Thur, Sat & Sun. great and lets face it, a club can have all the funky décor Istituto Italiano di Cultura (Italian Cultural Insti- Rajko Bizjak (Slo): Star dust: Incarnations - there is to be had but if it doesn’t have the atmosphere, it tute) B-3, Kongresni Trg 13, tel. (+386) 1241 56 40, photographs doesn’t have much at all. www.italcult.slo.it.tt. Language courses and a library Cankarjev Dom, Mala Galerija with books, films and music from Slovenia’s most important 23 Dec 2009 - 17 Jan 2010 neighbour. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Kino Šiška (Urban Cultural Centre) H-2, Trg Pre- komorskih Brigad 3, tel. (+386) 30 31 01 00, info@ Opera & Ballet kinosiska.si, www.kinosiska.si. After nearly a year of renovation, one the city’s most iconic cinemas reopened its Peter I. Tchaikovsky: The Nutcracker, A Christmas doors in August as an urban cultural centre featuring several Story state-of-the-art preformance halls and exhibition spaces. Cankarjev Dom Dedicated to promoting contemporary music, theatre, dance 28 -31 Dec 2009, 3 Jan & 5 Feb 2010, times vary and experimental events, it already attracts big-name regional and international artists, and is scheduled to hosts around J. Offenbach: The Rhine Nymphs - opera 200 events per year. Most concerts are held in its largest Cankarjev Dom multi-purpose hall, dubbed ‘the Cathedral’, which can fit over 12 - 13, 15-16 Jan 2010, 17:00 or 19:00 800 people. Check out their English language website for more info and a full schedule of events. Linz Landestheater (Austria): Lorenzaccio - KUD France Prešeren B-4, Karunova 14, tel. (+386) contemporary dance performance 1283 22 88, [email protected], www.kud-fp.si. A venue for Cankarjev Dom concerts, theatre, exhibitions and other events. QOpen 18 Jan 2010, 20:00 Not even we can think up an appropriate caption for this one 10:00 - 22.00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010 24 Culture & Events culture & Events 25

Metelkova Mesto (Alternative Culture Centre) D-2, Masarykova 24, www.metelkova.org. Ljubljana’s Buy Tickets famous artists’ colony hosts a number of clubs, most of which play thrash style music to a dreadlocked black-clad Tickets for events can usually be purchased in advance audience of all ages. Unfortunately little of the website is in at the venue, or from ticket agencies. English so it would be a case of try it and see, but what we can say for sure is that it provides a refreshing and alternative ESITI (Programski atelje A&Z) G-2, Cesta na alternative to the dance music found in most other clubs and Brdo 17, tel. (+386) 125 72 906, podpora@esiti. attracts a crowd who probably care more that you’re ‘cool’ as com, www.mojekarte.si. in non-judgmental than ‘cool’ as in what you’re wearing and Eventim A-1, Celovška 25, tel. (+386) 1430 24 05, how you sip your drink. Well worth checking-out both for itself [email protected], www.eventim.si/portal/en. Online and for the philosophy behind the whole set-up. ticket sales for more than 3,000 events per year, includ- Österreich Institut (Austrian Institute) B-3, Trg ing concerts, sports, and cultural events across Slovenia Francoske Revolucije 6, tel. (+386) 14 26 99 70, www. and Central Europe. Check the offer of events and buy oesterreichinstitut.si. German language courses, lectures, tickets before you even arrive in Slovenia. films, exhibitions and other events. Q Open Mon & Tue 10:00- Ljubljana Tourist Information Office at the 18:30, Fri 10:00-16:00. Closed Wed, Thur, Sat & Sun. Railway Station C-1, Trg Osvobodilne fronte 6, tel. (+386) 1433 94 75, [email protected], www. visitljubljana.si. The events ticketing office inside the Galleries railway station Q October-May: 10:00-19:00, Saturday The best places to view and buy local art. 08:00-15:00, Sunday closedTourist Information Centre C-3, Adamič-Lundrovo nabrežje 2, tel. (+386) Equrna B-3, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1252 71 23, 1306 12 15, [email protected], www.visitljubljana. [email protected], www.equrna.si. Modern art in an si. Tickets for concerts, shows and other events. Q elegant white, arched space. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat Open October-May 08:00-19:00, June-September 08:00- 10:00 - 13:00. No admission. 21:00. 22 December 2009 - 2 January 2010 Monday to Ganes Pratt B-3, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1251 16 Saturday 8:00-21:00. 33/(+386) 1251 16 34, [email protected], www.ganes.si. This fairly new space (found in the alley next door to Equrna) features some of the most exciting new Slovenian artists. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00, 14:00-18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Theatres Closed Sun. Most plays are in Slovenian, though every now and then Mestna galerija 1 B-3, Mestni Trg 5, tel. (+386) there’s a company visiting from abroad. Times given are 1241 17 70, [email protected], www.mestna- the box office opening hours. galerija.si. The largest fine art exhibition space in Ljubljana, next to the Town Hall. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 City Theatre (Mestno Gledališče Ljubljansko) - 13:00. Closed Mon. B-2, Čopova 14, tel. (+386) 1251 08 52, [email protected], Photon C-3, Poljanska 1, tel. (+386) 12 30 20 71, de- www.mgl.si. The MGL has two stages that are the home of [email protected], www.photon.si. This small gallery just east modern, progressive drama since the Yugoslav era. QOpen of Tržnica and around the corner from Dragon Bridge hosts 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. oft-changing exhibitions of contemporary photography with a Kavarna Union B-2, Miklošičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1308 focus on Eastern and especially Southeastern Europe. They 17 63, www.gh-union.si. The stage of the Kavarna Union also collaborate with several large European photography coffee house, inside the Grand Hotel Union. QOpen 08:00 festivals and international art fairs. QOpen 14:00 - 18:00. - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Closed Sat, Sun. Križanke Open Air Theatre B-3, Trg Francoske Revolucije Škuc Gallery B-3, Stari Trg 21, tel./fax (+386) 1421 1, tel. (+386) 1241 60 26. A beautiful open air theatre with 31 40, www.galerija.skuc-drustvo.si. One of the cities great accoustics for various summertime concerts and events. most popular and important galleries, Škuc holds numerous National Drama Theatre (Narodno Gledališče culture events and exhibitions throughout the year featuring Drama) B-3, Erjavčeva 1, tel. (+386) 1252 15 11, some oft he most important people in contemporary art [email protected], www.drama.si. With its roots reaching from throughout the region and the continent. QOpen 12:00 back to the 1860s, Slovenia’s national theatre stages plays - 20:00. Closed Mon. from all eras. Q Open 14:00 - 17:00 and 18:00 to showtime, Sat 18:00 to showtime, Sun closed. Puppet Theatre (Lutkovno Gledališče) C-3, Krekov Libraries Trg 2, tel. (+386) 1300 09 70, www.lgl.si. Taking as Knjižnica Otona Župančiča (Metropolitan Library) its cue the origins of Slovenian puppet theatre in the 15th B-2, Kersnikova 2, tel. (+386) 1600 13 00, www.koz.si. century, this puppet theatre, founded in 1948, provides over The regional library for central Slovenia is the most popular li- 500 performances annually, and is a hotbed of creative music, brary in the country, and has a wide range of English literature. design and other forms. It’s responsible for keeping scores QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. of children entertained and amused every week. Keep an eye Narodna In Univerzitetna Knjižnica (National & out for the musical puppets that come out of the small tower University Library) B-3, Turjaška 1, tel. (+386) 1200 on the roof of the building on the hour. QOpen 16:00 - 18:00, 11 88, [email protected], www.nuk.uni-lj.si. Home of Sat 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. The box office is open Monday Slovenia’s written cultural heritage, this well-organised library to Friday from 16:00 to 18:00, Saturday from 10:00 to 12:00, is every researcher’s dream. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat and during the hour prior to each performance. 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Slovenian National Opera & Ballet Theatre B-2, Cankarjeva 11/1, tel. (+386) 1241 17 66, info@opera. si, www.opera.si. A beautiful neo-Renaissence theatre in ljubljana.inyourpocket.com the city centre that’s used for various classical performances. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010 26 Conferences & fairs SPORTS 27

Slovenia’s well-developed infrastructure, stable The Boat Show Based on abundant anecdotal evidence and various economy and position at the crossroads of Western, Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre informal surveys, Slovenes rank as some of the most Central and Southeastern Europe make it a popular 22 - 25 January 2010 active people in the world. Ask anyone what their plans location for international conferences, trade fairs are for the weekend and you’re almost guaranteed to hear and exhibitions. While December and January aren’t Informative (Education Fair) the words cycling, hiking, skiing or tennis depending on exactly peak season, the two largest travel and tour- Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre the season - although even rain and snow hardly seem ism related events are taking place at the end of the www.informativa.si to discourage most people from packing up the kids and latter. 29 - 30 January 2010 heading to the mountains or into the countryside for a day of family fun. If you’re similarly inclined, or just feeling guilty Gastronomy, Ice Cream & Wine Fair by comparison, there are virtually endless opportunities to Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre get out there and work up a sweat. 8 - 10 February 2010 Home Builders Fair Badminton, Squash Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre Bit Center Hotel F-3, Litijska 57, tel. (+386) 1548 00 2 - 7 March 2010 55, [email protected], www.bit-center.net. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Promarket (Marketing & Advertising Fair) Millenium J-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 1585 15 Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre 00, [email protected], www.millenium.btc.si. QOpen 17 - 19 March 2010 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. Collecta (International Collector’s Fair) Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre Bowling 16 - 28 March 2010 Arena Vodafone live! - Gladiator (BTC Center) J-1/2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 1520 55 80, info@ Conventa kolosej.si, www.arenalive.si. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri There’s no off season for cycling in Slovenia Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre Conference & Exhibition Centres 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. en.conventa.si Klub300 H-1, Regentova 35, tel. (+386) 1510 39 40, 21 - 22 January Cankarjev Dom [email protected], www.bowlingklub300.com. Paintball The Slovenian Convention Bureau’s 2nd Southeast Located in the centre of town, CD is Slovenia’s largest QOpen 14:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. Kraljev Hrib Kamniška Bistrica 2, 1242 Stahovica, European Exhibition for Meetings, Events and Incentive purpose-built congress centre in terms of auditorium In summer bowling is available every day from 17:00. tel. (+386) 1832 72 50/(+386) 041 816 477, info@ Travel, will be held at the Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention style seating. Of its 22 multi-purpose halls and func- kraljevhrib-sp.si, www.kraljevhrib-sp.si. Located near Centre on 21 - 22 January 2010. The event brings tional spaces, the largest has a capacity of up to 2,000 the cable car at the foot of the Alps in Velika Planina, the together a wide selection of exhibitors from the tourism delegates, and the entire venue can host up to 5,000 Dance School ‘King of the Hill’ sports and recreation centre is best known and international meetings industry in Southeast Europe, visitors simultaneously. Salsoteca A/B-1, Celovška 175, tel. (+386) 31 31 48 as the foremost promoter of one of Slovenia’s newest including convention bureaus, tourist boards, convention 05, www.salsoteca.si. QOpen 17:00 - 19:30. Closed Sat. pastimes: paintball. Since they opened the country’s first centres and hotels, event planning agencies, airlines and Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre paintball club in 1992, the sport has gone on to build quite transport companies and various media for the purpose GR, as it is known in Slovene, is the largest convention a following among Slovenes, who turn out year-round to of arranging one-to-one meetings with top industry buyers centre in Slovenia, and is the location of nearly all of Extreme Sports shoot their friends, family members and co-workers with who are responsible for organising international events for Ljubljana’s major conventions, fairs and trade shows. Biosfera B-4, Karunova 6, tel. (+386) 1280 16 07, info@ balls of paint. their firms. The exhibition’s focus on personal one-to-one With 20 multifunctional halls and rooms it can accommo- biosfera.si, www.biosfera.si. meetings makes it the ideal venue for industry insiders to date thousands of visitors, and also has 1,500 parking present their services and offerings to potential partners. spaces within short walking distance. For those arriving Swimming Last year, over 3,000 such meeting took during the event. by public transport, it is located only 300 metres from Fitness Atlantis Water Park J-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. Following the official programme, several study tours will the main train and bus stations. Bit Sport Center J-2, Litijska 57, tel. (+386) 1548 00 (+386) 1585 21 00, [email protected], www.atlan- be available to participants who wish to explore first-hand 55, [email protected]. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. tis-vodnomesto.si. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Admission what the region has to offer. A hosted buyer programme Grand Hotel Union Fit&Fun Center B-2, Dalmatinova 2, tel. (+386) 1239 €7,90/6,50. - covering return airfare, four-star hotel accommodation, Built in 1905, this Art Nouveau masterpiece has a long 61 74, [email protected], www.fit-funcenter.si. Kodeljevo F-3, Gortanova 21, tel. (+386) 1520 13 00, local transfers and all meals - is also available for qualified history of hosting major events and prominent guests QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. [email protected], www.slovan.si. Q Outdoor pool open individuals. See the official website for registration details - it’s the only place the Queen of England stay when Konex center G-2, Cesta na Brdo 109, tel. (+386) 09:00-19:00 in Aug. Admission €6/4,50. and other info. she’s in town. It also has the most extensive conference 1241 40 00, [email protected], www.konex-center. Laguna Spa & Fun H/J-1, Dunajska 270, tel. (+386) facilities of any hotel in Ljubljana, including its immaculate si. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00. 1568 39 13, [email protected], www.laguna.si. QOpen Tourism and Leisure Show Grand Union Hall, which can seat up to 800 delegates. Sokol Group d.o.o. H-3, Koprska 72, tel. (+386) 1200 09:00 - 22:00. Admission €13/11. Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre 27 50, fax (+386) 1200 27 57, [email protected], Plavalni klub Ilirija A-1, Celovška 3, tel. (+386) 1439 www.ljubljanafair.com Hotel Mons www.sokolgroup.com. Operates three fitness centres in 75 80, [email protected], www.plavalniklub-ilirija.si. 21 - 24 January 2009 Located along the ring road on the western edge of the Ljubljana with aerobics, saunas and tanning facilities. The gym Recreational Center Tivoli A-1, Celovška 25, tel. Held at the end of January, Slovenia’s largest tourism city, Mons was Slovenia’s first designer hotel. Its state- near the city centre, located in Tivoli Park, also features a (+386) 1431 51 50, [email protected], event brings together seemingly every tourism related of-the-art congress centre is comprised of six separate swimming pool and a sports nutrition shop. It’s the perfect www.zavod-tivoli.si. QOpen 06:00 - 11:00; 18:00-23:00, business, organisation, association and government office conference halls - the largest seating up to 600 people place to go if your muscles need some pumping or you want Mon 18:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Outdoor pool open in the country. The show not only aims to promote all of - and three smaller boardrooms, and the 111-room hotel to find a swimming pool close to work. 09:00-19:00. Admission €6/4,50. Slovenia’s numerous tourist offering, but also bring together itself is packed with amenities. Sokol Tivoli Fitness center A-1, Celovška 25, tel. people from all of tourism’s diverse sectors in order to (+386) 1300 37 55, [email protected], facilitate cooperation as well as innovation. As the name Hotel Lev www.sokolgroup.com. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun Tennis suggests, the organisers devote special attention to leisure Formerly part of the InterContinental chain, the 5-star 10:00 - 20:00. Breskvar Tennis Academy J-1, Tesovnikova 74, tel. activities available in Slovenia and abroad, with foreign Hotel Lev (pronounced lay-OW, which is Slovene for ‘lion’), Sunny H-1, Regentova 37, tel. (+386) 1513 44 44, (+386) 1568 38 19, [email protected], www. representative also presenting their respective countries. has a prime location in the centre of town and boast www.sunny.si. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 tenis-klub-breskvar.si. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Participants range from ministries, airports and railways ample conference facilities. Its largest hall , which can - 21:00. Gradiant J-1, Pot K Savi 45, tel. (+386) 1537 30 47, to casinos, ski resorts and restaurants to golf courses, also be divided into quarters, has a maximum reception TG Sportlife H-2, Bežigrad 13, tel. (+386) 41 81 11 www.gradiant.si. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. caravan dealers and the publishers of high quality locally- capacity of 500 guests, or up to 380 seats. 96, [email protected], www.tgsportlife.net. QOpen Kodeljevo sports park F-3, Gortanova 21, tel. (+386) produced city guides. 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 1520 13 00, www.slovan.si. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010 28 Where to stay

Not surprisingly for a popular tourist and business destina- tion, Ljubljana provides a wide range of accommodation options to suit all tastes and budgets. As you’d expect, prices creep up the closer you get to the centre, but the cost of a night here still remains relatively low in compari- son with western Europe. The city’s popularity does mean however that places do book up for the summer. Ensuring you get yourself the room the want in the location you want and for the price you want during the summer is highly recommended. Symbol key P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted O Casino H Conference facilities T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled F Fitness centre L Guarded parking R Internet G Non-smoking rooms K Restaurant J Old town location D Sauna C Swimming pool 6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi

Over €170 Grand Hotel Union Business B-2, Miklošičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1308 11 70, fax (+386) 1308 19 14, hotel. [email protected], www.gh-union.si. Attached to its sibling Executive hotel and sharing some but not all of the facilities on offer, accommodation comes in a choice of rooms and suites with a slightly feminine touch, but not enough to put off the serious male business traveller. Shared facilities include a grand total of 21 conference and banqueting rooms, secure parking and the pleasing fact that the best sights and leisure activities in the city are all close at hand. Check out their extensive website for further information. Q 327 rooms (singles €178-212, doubles €193-227, suites €372-446). PJHAR6UFLGKDXCW hhhh

Grand Hotel Union Executive B-2, Miklošičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1308 12 70, [email protected], www.gh- union.si. In a great location in the heart of the city centre, the Executive offers fine accommodation in a range of tastefully decorated rooms, suites and apartments. Complete with a lovely old world, Art Nouveau ambience, expect an excellent choice of facilities for both business and leisure. Extras include two decent restaurants, a small bar, airport shuttle service and a decent gift shop. In keeping with its reputation, the hotel also hosts the local bridge club, who meet every Monday at 18:00. Q 327 rooms (singles €194-233, doubles €209-248, suites €455-546). PJHAR6UFLGKDXCW hhhh

Lev B-2, Vošnjakova 1, tel. (+386) 1433 21 55, info@ hotel-lev.si, www.hotel-lev.si. Ljubljana’s only five-star hotel started business in 1964 and boasts a pedigree that’s man- aged to entice such notable celebrities as Agatha Christie, Kirk Douglas and Sting in its time. A glistening marble lobby serves as a fine overture to over 170 high quality, air-condi- tioned rooms from singles through to some exceedingly posh suites, all complete with facilities including soundproof win- dows, cable television and a choice of internet connections. Extras include popularbusiness and conference services, a restaurant specialising in some fine Mediterranean dishes and a large gambling hall in the basement Q 173 rooms (singles €200, doubles €240, business rooms €250, suites €300). POJHARUFGKXW hhhhh

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Hotel Listings Policy Hotels are listed strictly by price band, and then by al- phabetical order within that band. The price band refers to the rack rate for a double room.

Mons G-2, Pot Za Brdom 55, tel. (+386) 1470 27 00, fax (+386) 1470 27 08, [email protected], www. hotel.mons.si. Along the highway to the west of the city and close to the zoo, Mons is the city’s only combined hotel and congress centre, and a very good one it is indeed. From the magnificent works of art in the lobby (indeed, Mons markets itself as the country’s first designer hotel) to the glorious rooms, this place really is just what the doctor ordered. Indoor facilities are many, including gym and sauna. The congress facilities are state of the art. Q 110 rooms (singles €112-210), doubles €137-235, suites €257-355). PTHAR6FLGKDXW hhhh €100-170 Allegro B-3, Gornji Trg 6, tel. (+386) 59 119 620/(+386) 041 557 908, [email protected], www.allegrohotel.si. We can’t decide whether to call it an upmarket B&B or a cosy boutique hotel, but semantics aside there’s a lot to like. Just opened in mid-July, when we visited they were still putting the finishing touches on after six months of renovation. The 12 individually designed rooms each feature a different colour scheme with deep purples, reds, blues and greens most prevalent, along with gorgeous wall paper and faux-antique furnishings. Several large common areas add to the overall charm, including a great lounge, a courtyard out back and a breakfast room in the cellar that could easily be mistaken for Best Western Premier Slon B-2, Slovenska 34, tel. atmosphere and lots of wonderful added extras for a most a restaurant. Definitely a welcome addition to Ljubljana’s hotel (+386) 1470 11 00, fax (+386) 1251 71 64, sales@ satisfactory stay in the city. A combination of standard and scene. Q 12 rooms (singles €95-115, doubles €130-150). hotelslon.com, www.hotelslon.com. On the site of the superior rooms with lots of pleasing cream colours and PJARBW hhhh oldest hotel in Ljubljana, the Slon is the best value stay in the hardwood floors in the latter, other goodies include free city. For a very reasonable price you get a ton of luxury, from LAN internet in every room, a small library on the ground Antiq B/C-3, Gornji Trg 3, tel. (+386) 1421 35 60, fax a pillow menu (yes, really) to sheets of only the purest cotton. floor, and bicycle hire for the fitter section of the commu- (+386) 1421 35 65, [email protected], www.antiqhotel. The breakfast - served in a large, light and airy dining room - is nity. Good location too, smack bang in the city centre. Q si. A superb location in the heart of the old town with a host a buffet affair of the highest quality: you should turn up early if 200 rooms (singles €69-140, doubles €138-290, suites of rooms to suit all tastes and budgets. Featuring a welcom- you want to have time to taste everything. Add in a small fit- €373-888). PTJHAR6UILGKXW ing little lobby with lots of nice feminine touches, the rooms ness centre and sauna, free Wifi, home entertainment centres hhh have been given a distinctly boutique hotel feel, with huge in every room, tremendous service and a location in the very wooden beds, patterned carpets, interesting paintings on heart of the city, and you have one hell of a package. Q 171 M hotel H-2, Derčeva 4, tel. (+386) 1513 70 00, fax the walls and some really smart pieces of furniture. Even the rooms (singles €75 - 134, doubles €110-160, triples €165-180, (+386) 1513 70 90, [email protected], www.m-hotel.si. small budget economy rooms have been approached with a suites €201-335). PJHAR6UIGKDXW Five minutes out of the centre on the road to Bled, this fine, tasteful eye, whereas at the other end of the spectrum the hhhh modern business class hotel comes with over 150 well ap- superiors come with bags of space, lovely chandeliers and pointed rooms, all with cable television, en suite bathrooms, magnificent bathrooms. Room 13 on the other hand takes Central B-2, Miklošičeva 9, tel. (+386) 1308 43 00, fax free wireless internet access and 40 extra-length beds for a different, more modernistic approach, with wooden floors (+386) 1230 11 81, [email protected], www. those who need it. Excellent value for what you get, extras and minimalist furniture. Q 16 rooms (singles €61-135, centralhotel.si. The classic four-star hotel experience, the include restaurant, summer terrace, car rental and a hair- doubles €156-172, extra bed €48). PJAR6IGW Garni is the little brother of the three Union hotels in the city, dresser. Q 154 rooms (singles €61-135, doubles €77-168). hhhh but that doesn’t necessarily make him a weakling. Geared PHAR6ULGKXW hhh up exceptionally well for the tourist market, the reception is Austria Trend H-1, Dunajska 154, tel. (+386) 1588 crammed with the latest useful information about the city 25 00, fax (+386) 1588 25 99, ljubljana@austria-trend. and surrounding region, plus there’s bicycle hire during the €70-100 at, www.austria-trend.at/lju. Two kilometres north of the summer. The combined bar-restaurant isn’t too bad either, Ahotel H-3, Cesta Dveh Cesarjev 34d, tel. (+386) 1429 city centre near the highway, this vast business class hotel and the rooms feature everything you need for a good value 18 92, fax (+386) 1429 12 54, [email protected], that also caters to the better standard of tourist provides stay right in the heart of the city centre. Excellent value www.ahotel.si. A rather fabulous-looking endeavour for high quality rooms in four different categories from good to accommodation indeed. Q 74 rooms (singles €90-167, a three-star, heavy on the cool brown tones, woods and exceptionally good, plus a range of other excellent services doubles €100-197, suites €286-343). PJHAR6F� wickerwork, find it not far from the centre and aimed at both and facilities including wellness centre, top notch conference GKDXCW hhhh the business and independent traveller. The rooms are nicely amenities, restaurants, a fine cocktail bar and a fun oyster and decorated each coming with en suite bathrooms, flatscreen sushi bar. Popular for both relaxing business stays as well as City B-2, Dalmatinova 15, tel. (+386) 1239 00 00, fax televisions and wireless internet access. Other facilities in- a variety of different functions, you’ll be hard pressed to find (+386) 1239 00 01, [email protected], www.cityhotel. clude secure parking, two conference facilities for 80 people, a better hotel of this type in the city. Q 214 rooms (singles si. With a reception like a studio set for a children’s televi- a nice bar, and the opportunity to borrow a laptop if yours €100-125, doubles €140-220, suites €130-210, apartments sion programme complete with bright colours and lots of is broken or lost in transit. Q 26 rooms (singles €70-110, €225). POHAUFGKDXW comfortable furniture, the City Hotel provides a pleasing doubles €80-150). PTALGKW hhh

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010 32 Where to stay Where to stay 33

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Kavarna Maček Rooms B-3, Krojaška 5, tel. (+386) Stil K-2, Litijska 188, tel. (+386) 15 48 43 43, hotel@ 1425 37 91, [email protected]. With rooms this beautiful hotel-stil.si, www.hotel-stil.si. Located in a quiet rural and a location this fantastic, you’ll be the envy of other travel- setting near the ring road on the eastern edge of the city, lers. These rooms are along the river and above the popular Stil is a convenient choice for those with their own transport Maček cafe and are beautifully renewed in a tasteful modern who are looking to avoid the noise and activity of the city style. The rooms are mostly singles and doubles for couples, centre. The modern building houses a range of rooms and but is also space for the travelling family. In the morning, head apartments, and there’s a large parking lot for guests. All facili- down to the cafe for a coffee and breakfast and at night grab ties are air-conditioned and come with en suite bathrooms, one last drink before heading up to your glorious temporary mini-bars and wireless internet. A small meeting room is apartment. QOpen 09:00 - 00:30. 4 rooms (singles €55, also available. Q 24 rooms (singles €72, doubles €75-90, doubles €96). PTJA6GBKS triples €108, apartments €90-170) . PHARLG hhh Park D-2, Tabor 9, tel. (+386) 1300 25 00, info@hotel- park.si, www.hotelpark.si. The brightly coloured tower block that is Hotel (and Hostel) Park conceals a number of good Under €70 value standard, comfort, family rooms and suites, all providing Bit Center J-2, Litijska 57, tel. (+386) 1548 00 55, fax different amenities depending on the cost. All of the rooms (+386) 1548 00 56, [email protected], www.bit-center. in hotel come with en suite facilities,TV, telephone, hairdryer, net. A combined hotel, sports centre and youth hostel 10 min- the comfort one also including a LAN internet connection, air utes east of the centre, rooms are basic but clean, coming with conditioning and mini-bar. There’s a restaurant and bar as well, en suite bathrooms facilities and cable television in every room. and a free internet connection in the lobby. Daytrips around Budget means budget here, so there are no fancy restaurants or Slovenia plus airport pick-up also available on request. Q bars, just a snack counter and little else. Sports facilities includ- 200 rooms (singles €60-110, doubles €80-150, apartments ing badminton and squash courts, fitness centre and gym. The €150-180). PTJHAR6GXW hhh ‘Working Inn’ hostel option provides excellent value rooms that sleep up to 10 people with shared bathroom facilities. Q 39 Pri Mraku B-3, Rimska 4, tel. (+386) 1421 96 00, www. rooms (singles €34,50, doubles €46, triples €47,50, dorm beds daj-dam.si Over 30 clean and tidy rooms, all with en suite €15). Breakfast (€3,50) not included. AGBKDW h facilities, cable television and internet access in one of the best locations in the city. More of a guesthouse in the classic German style than a hotel, there is at least a decent restaurant and a small garden to give the place a slight hotel-type feel. Not as cheap as many similar places of the same standard Read more online in Ljubljana, what you lose in payment here you more than make up for in accessibility to the main sights. Q 30 rooms ljubljana.inyourpocket.com (singles €70-102 doubles €79-134, apartments €168-202). PJARLGKXW hhh

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010 34 Where to stay Where to stay 35

NEW and free LAN internet access. Simple breakfasts are served in Center B-2, Slovenska 51, tel. +386 15 20 06 40/+386 the aforementioned café, which also has a delightful terrace. 41 26 33 47, fax +386 15 20 06 44, info@hotelcenter. Within easy walking distance of Tivoli Park and the old town. si, www.hotelcenter.si. Only opened back in July, this Q 11 rooms (singles €65-95, doubles €80-107, suites for eight-room family-run affair is hard to beat in terms of location 1-7 people €135-280). JHARLG hhh and price. The rooms are a bit on the Spartan side, but not without their own charm, owing in large part to the premises: a renovated 19th-century government building with high ceil- Hostels ings and splashes of exposed stonework. Run by the same Alibi B-3, Cankarjevo Nabrežje 27, tel. (+386) 1251 12 people as Café Compañeros downstairs, there are often 44, fax (+386) 125 11 245, [email protected], www.alibi. packages available - including free dinner and/or drinks - if si. You’ll be hard-pressed to find a better located hostel in you’re staying at least two nights and inquire about them in Ljubljana. Right in the heart of the centre of the city, Alibi is a advance. Q 8 rooms (doubles €60-75). hostel that is actually a lot bigger than it originally seems. In here you’ll find all types of room. You can choose how many Emonec B-3, Wolfova 12, tel. (+386) 1200 15 20, fax people you want to share the room with depending on how (+386) 1200 15 21, [email protected], www.hotel- much you enjoy snoring. All of them decorated in different emonec.com. This clean and slightly hidden hotel actually graffiti motifs. The staff is super friendly and always at hand gives you front row seats to the city as it sits right inside the if you need something. Try to get the cooler rooms. One has Prešernov trg area. The accomodations are sparse and while a great balcony overlooking the river and there’s another they have no restaurant there are no shortage of options one that’s a separate apartment on the top of the building. as soon as you walk out of the door. A great choice for the There’s a locked room next to it with metal doors that looks traveller on a budget. Q 39 rooms (singles €59, doubles like a prison cell, but it actually adds to the atmosphere. Q €67-77, triples €90, apartments €105). JHAR6UW Open 24 hours. 106 beds (double bed €20, four bed private hh €17, six bed private €20, dormitory €17). PJAR� 6LEGW h Medno 54, Medno, tel. (+386) 1362 61 00, fax (+386) 1362 61 16, [email protected], www. Azur H-2, Cesta na Brdo 33, tel. (+386) 40 636 205. hotel-medno.si. Nine kilometres out of Ljubljana on the road Located in Rožna Dolina, a quiet student and residential towards Kranj, the Medno provides good accommodation neighbourhood southwest of the city centre, this cosy hostel in a range of rooms. This good-value hotel also gives the occupying an apartment above a popular Italian restaurant of business traveller opportunities to unwind with the massage the same name has the cheapest beds in town. The friendly and Jacuzzi services. Q 93 beds (singles €54-69, doubles owner, Marko, provides free pick-up from both the airport €68-88, suites €88-108). PHAR6LGKXW and train station, and will generally do what he can to make hhh you feel at home. If you come on your own bus 14 stops right across the road and you can’t miss the bright orange building. Stari Tišler C-2, Kolodvorska 8, tel. (+386) 1430 33 However, there’s not always someone at reception so it’s a 70, fax (+386) 1 430 33 75, [email protected], www. good idea to arrange your arrival in advance. Q 20 beds stari-tisler.com. Cheap and cheerful budget accommodation (11-bed dorm €12, 9-bed dorm €13). ALK in a charming old building in the city centre. There are six rooms, which you will find at the top of a glorious staircase, Celica D-2, Metelkova ulica 8, tel. (+386) 1230 97 00, and which, while they share bathroom facilities, do come [email protected], www.hostelcelica.com. Ljubljana’s with televisions. The triples are great value. There’s a good legendary Celica hostel and surrounding buildings close to the breakfast included, which in the summer is served outside in stations and the city centre started life in the 19th century as the courtyard, and an internet corner. Q 6 rooms (doubles an Austro-Hungarian military barracks. Once a prison, many of €44, triples €66). PJALGBK Celica’s rooms have been kept almost as they were, providing a cheap and definitely quirky place to spend the night behind bars. Other rooms are also available as well as dormitories to Bed & Breakfast sleep from four to 12 people. There’s even a room for disabled Slamič B-2, Kersnikova 1, tel. (+386) 1433 82 33, guests, plus a huge range of other facilities such as kitchen, [email protected], www.slamic.si. An excellent value bed and laundry, internet access, tourist information and bicycle hire. breakfast in the heart of the city with the added bonus of a The hostel’s café serves an excellent value set lunch every fabulous in-house café. The rooms are spacious and modern, day. Q 29 rooms (rooms €23-25 per bed, dorms €16-18 per all with their own en suite facilities, large comfortable beds bed). PJHAR6ULGKW h

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010 36 Where to stay Restaurants 37

Ljubljana’s restaurant scene continues to flour- Fluxus B-2, Tomšičeva 4, tel. (+386) 1251 57 60, info@ Around Ljubljana ish with new and more exotic offerings opening all Asian fluxus-hostel.com, www.fluxus-hostel.com. A clean, Ambient Aškerčeva 6a, 1230 Domžale, tel. (+386) 8 the time. As of late we’ve been eating quite a bit Bangkok Street J-2, Šmartinska 152/G (BTC), tel. brightly-colored, and award-winning hostel in a beautiful old 200 20 00, [email protected], www.ambienthotel.si. of burek on the go, but when we do find time to sit (+386) 15 23 31 65, fax (+386) 15 23 31 66, www.bang- building in the center of town, its small size actually adds to This recently opened hotel in the quiet suburb of Domžale is down for a proper meal we tend to do so at either Le kokstreet.si. Settle into a table with views of an artfully-lit its comfort. The hostel features two large dormitory style some 12km north of Ljubljana and offers great access to those Coq Blanc or Kavalino. The following reviews are by perforated metal structure just beyond the ceiling-high windows rooms with bunk beds and one bathroom for all to share, plus wishing to explore Slovenia’s alpine regions. Surrounded by no means complete, but do offer a bit of everything at the back of this stylish new eatery, and you just might be able one more private room with its own bathroom facilities. It also greenery the hotel has a fresh modern appearance and its for everyone, from the finest white-tablecloth op- to forget that you’re staring at the façade of a parking garage has a working kitchen and lounge area, and a friendly staff tastefully designed rooms are fitted with all the modern com- tions available to the more amusingly backwards from a shopping mall. While the food won’t have you sprinting that make you feel happy to be there. Q 3 rooms (double forts. Free transportation from the airport can be arranged, establishments complete with greasy cutlery and to the nearest telephone to call home and sing its praises, it’s €33,33, dormitory €21,11). JR6G hh as can use of conference facilities, a large picnic area, beach bumbling waiters. better than you might expect given the location and you’ll be volleyball court and various Thai massages for additional hard-pressed to find better value in terms of ethnic food - the Park D-2, Tabor 9, tel. (+386) 1300 25 00, fax (+386) charges. Q 70 rooms (singles €50-80, doubles €70-130, portions are huge and there’s also a relatively inexpensive all- 1300 25 18, [email protected], www.hotelpark.si. Lo- suites €160-240). HA6LBDW hhh Symbol key you-can-eat buffet. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, cated inside the same building as the Park Hotel and offering Sun 09:00 - 15:00. (€4-16). PTAULGW the same communal facilities, Hostel Park provides a range of Grandvid Dolenjska 336, tel. (+386) 13 60 22 00, fax P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted decent quality communal rooms for two to four people, some (+386) 13 60 22 10, [email protected], www. China Fast Food C-2, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte, tel. (+386) coming with en suite bathroom facilities and some having to grandvid-hotel.com. Despite being located in a village just E Live music S Take away 31 56 82 78. Six little tables inside a small restaurant on the share. Q 42 rooms (twin €23-29, quad dorm beds €19-23). south of Ljubljana proper, a massive development of apartment T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled ground floor of Centar Ledina (across the park opposite the JAGKXW blocks sprouting up across the traffic-choked road gives the main train station), constantly busy at lunchtime with locals surrounding area about as much charm as an industrial zone, R Internet L Guarded parking tucking into food cooked in a single wok by a Chinese man Vila Veselova A-3, Veselova 14, tel. (+386) 59 92 67 which would seem to defeat the purpose of staying outside O Casino J Old Town location visible through a large plate glass window. Reasonably priced, 21, [email protected], www.v-v.si. Owned by the same people the city in the first place. The rooms themselves are comfort- fast, and with vegetarian options as well, the food is pretty who run the excellent Žmauc bar, this fairly new hostel in a able enough and have all the standard amenities, though the 6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi good, and worth investigating if you find yourself here with an lovely old villa in the western part of the city centre is aimed at prominently displayed four-star rating seems a bit of a stretch. B Outside seating V Home delivery empty stomach and not a lot of time. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. the young travelling crowd who like to relax. Simply furnished Although the hotel can hardly be faulted for the actions of its Closed Sun. (€4.70-6.80).PJAUGS with a range of rooms and dormitories, some with and some neighbours, there are much better options both in and out of without en suite facilities and all named after a different the city centre. Q 21 rooms (singles €80, doubles €100, suites colour, extras include nice big balconies and free internet. €120). PTHAULGBKW hhhh Q 8 rooms (singles €28, 4-bed dorms €22, 6-bed dorms €20, 8-bed dorms €17). JARLGW hh Couchsurfing Zeppelin B-2, Slovenska 47, 2nd floor, tel. (+386) 51 Who says that beggars can’t be choosers? There are 637 436, [email protected], www.zeppelinhos- literally hundreds of sociable Slovenes currently offering tel.com. Snug inside a famous building of the name Evropa their (or their parents’) spare rooms, couches and floors from the XIX century, this friendly and social hostel is just a for free to fellow travellers. The site, which combines social few steps out of the old town and within walking distance networking with hostel booking, is a great option for any- of the train and bus stations. Zeppelin is the perfect reside one interested in hanging out with locals and saving some for the budget traveler, with everything you may need in cash on accommodation. It can obviously be a hit-or-miss terms of entertainment and tourist attractions in immedi- experience, but the exhaustive member profiles will give ate locality. Breakfast is included with your stay. QOpen you a good idea of what to expect from your prospective 08:00 - 22:00. Double room 24.99 €, 4-bed room dorms hosts. Info http://www.couchsurfing.org/mapsurf.html 21.49€, 6-bed dorms room 19.49 €, 8-bed room dorms 18.49 €.JGW Airport hotels Apartment rental Dvor Jezeršek Zgornji Brnik 63, tel. (+386) 4 252 All the benefits of a private apartment without the costs 94 00, www.dvor-jezersek.si. Just 2km from Ljubljana of a hotel, plus you get to shop for your own breakfast too. Airport (and only 4 kilometres from the Krvavec ski resort) this spacious family-run hotel that’s been in busi- Asdom Apartments C-2, Vidovdanska 5, tel. (+386) ness since 1768 hotel makes for a good night’s sleep be- 41 662 928, [email protected], www.asdom.si. fore an early departure or after a late arrival. Apart from Rents out studio apartments in the centre of Ljubljana for decent rooms, there are several romantic apartments for both short and extended stays. All apartments are equipped hire and there’s both a gostilna (tavern) on site as well as with wireless internet and cable television. Excellent service, an elegant restaurant. The large conference rooms allow especially if your survival language is English. Q 7 aparments you to fly in, do business and fly out without even having (€55). PJAW to go to Ljubljana. Q 18 rooms (singles €80-90, doubles €120-130). PTHRUILGKW Tour AS B-2, Mala Ulica 8, tel. (+386) 1434 26 60, fax (+386) 1434 26 64, [email protected], www.apartmaji. Sobe Jana Vopolje 29, 4207 Cerklje Na Gornjskem, si. These are the people to talk to if you’re interested in tel. (+386) 40 216 260, www.turizem-vopovlje. renting an apartment during your stay in Ljubljana. From com/sobe-jana.htm. A converted family home in the an office just a few minutes walk directly south of the main village of Vopovlje, Sobe Jana is a decent option only train and bus stations, they operate over 40 units of vary- 3km from Ljubljana’s Jože Pučnik Airport in Brnik. The ing sizes located all around the city. On their website you four rooms and three apartments are comfortable if can find incredibly detailed descriptions of each apartment not overly luxurious, and are one of the better values from photos and floor plans to available amenities such as around with the latter starting at only €12 per person. microwaves and dishwashers. They can also arrange day Q 7 rooms (singles €22-26, doubles €28-34, triples trips to just about everywhere in Slovenia. Q 40 apartments 35-40, apartments €36-42). PTA6L (€59-154). PTJAR6UL

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010 38 Restaurants Restaurants 39

Running Sushi & Wok J-3, Jurčkova 223 (Supernova), Zlati Most Poljanska 7, tel. (+386) 41 952 178. Just tel. (+386) 1427 68 88. When Slovenia’s first conveyor belt opened in mid-July, Zlati Most (or Golden Bridge) is the third sushi place opened we had mixed feelings: a second option Chinese restaurant to stake its claim to a narrow 50m stretch to get our raw fish fix was certainly welcomed, but we were a of road a bit east of the central market - and far be it for us to bit leery that it would see enough traffic to inspire confidence question the wisdom of this, but let’s just say the other two in the all-important freshness department. But as far as we don’t exactly do a roaring trade. Nevertheless we quite like this can tell it’s OK. Everything more or less tastes like it should, place. How can you not when the menu features dishes such as there’s a good variety of dishes meandering around on sepa- Drunk chicken, Ant climb tree and Flied dragon with phoenix? rate hot and cold belts and an all Asian staff wait attentively Throw in cheap Chinese beer and spirits, huge portions and to swoop in and clear emptied plates and lids. Well worth strangely hypnotic Chinese pop music and they have our busi- the trip down to . QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 ness. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (€3.60-12.30). JNS - 15:00. All you can eat €9.90-11.90. PAL

Shambala B-3/4, Križevniška 12, tel. (+386) 1426 Balkan 30 14/(+386) 031 843 833, [email protected], www. Harambaša B-4, Vrtna Ulica, tel. (+386) 41 84 31 06, shambala.si. Great value Asian food in a quiet, side street Ćevapčići (che-VAP-chi-chi) - the delicious Balkan staple of location. Head out back to the covered garden and order any juicy barbequed lamb or beef - is served in abundance here. of the tremendous stir fries, though do not forego the start- This ćevapnica (che-vap-nitsa - cafe/restaurant serving ers: tempura made with shrimps make great nibbles. There ćevapčići) has a quaint and cosy dining room, complete with is plenty for vegetarians on the menu (not always the case old photos, antiques and a Balkan soundtrack. Aside from in these parts). QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. the odd American, the clientele is refreshingly local - and Closed Sun. (€3.50-9.50). PTJAGBK aside from the air-conditioning you could easily be in a village in the Bosnian countryside. Located on quiet backstreet, Sushimama B-3, Wolfova 12/(+386) 40 70 20 70, www. Harambaša is a great place for a beer, chat and, of course, sushimama.si. The first - and for a long time only - Japanese lots of lovely ćevapčići. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 restaurant in Slovenia, the small and intimate Sushimama’s - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (€5-8). PYS interesting little touches beyond the actual food include a subscription to Wallpaper magazine and the brave act of Rio-Momo A-3, Slovenska 28, tel. (+386) 31 751 putting the sushi chef on display as he works in the restaurant. 751/(+386) 1425 32 26, www.rio-momo.com. Situated The extensive menu features every Japanese favourite from between the central post office and Kongresni Trg on the city’s soups to noodle soups, a number of delicate rice- and noodle- main thoroughfare, we’ve never found the exterior to be the based dishes to of course the sushi itself. Complimented by an most inviting but once you get inside it’s actually quite warm extensive list of cocktails and wines, the restaurant is marking and cosy. The thick leather covers on the menus portend its territory as the first and finest of its kind. QOpen 11:00 the ample selection of grilled meat dishes within, although - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€11-24).PJARGBXS vegetarians have a handful of a pastas and salads to choose from as well. On your way in don’t forget to check the table Fish genuinely friendly service. Although it is still fairly new, we’re outside for flyers entitling you to a free glass of wine. QOpen Operna Klet B-2, Zupančičeva 2, tel. (+386) 1252 70 amazed that this place isn’t nearly as popular as it should be. 11:00 - 23:00. (€6-19). PJA 03. Tucked away just off the main road and down a flight of Highly recommended. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. JAIB steps, those in the know who enjoy fine fish dining are apt to Sarajevo ‘84 B-2, Nazorjeva 12. Just opened in early totter down the aforementioned stairway and feast in simple September, the city’s newest Bosnian restaurant occupies the surroundings on an extensive menu including octopus salad, Indian subterranian premises of a recently closed jazz club and sports scampi and Dalmatian squid. The décor has a aquatic theme Namasté B-3, Breg 8, tel. (+386) 14 25 01 59, www.re- an interior somewhat reminiscent of a pub - walls plastered too, and you’ll not hear a lot of English spoken. Recommended stavracija-namaste.si. Lots of greens, oranges and golds and with memorabilia from the 1984 Winter Olympics, arched brick for both its unpretentiousness and the quality of the food. some nice exotic touches create a relaxing atmosphere inside a ceilings and old black and white Yugoslav tourist videos playing Be warned though, the place can fill to bursting at lunchtime super restaurant specialising primarily in dishes from Rajastan on a projection screen. The menu only has two main dishes, so during the week. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. and the Punjab. Using the best spices imported directly from ordering comes down to which shape you prefer your meat to Closed Sun. (€6-20). PJA6UGB India, the owners stress the fact that the dishes, both meat and take: sausages (ćevapčići) or a patty (pljeskavica), both of which vegetarian options are made individually from mild to extra hot. come with bread and diced onions. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Ribca B-3, Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje 1, tel. (+386) 14 By all accounts the food is excellent. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun Sat 11:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. (€3.90-4.80). JAS 25 15 44, www.ribca.si. Somewhat hidden below Plečnik’s 11:00 - 22:00. (€5-21). PTJA6UGBXS famous colonnaded arcade on the banks of the Ljubljanica, Ribca is the city’s best known seafood restaurant and worth Buffet stopping by as much for the architecture as the food. The vari- International Fresco B-2, Slovenska 51, tel. (+386) 1430 33 30. A basic ous fish, squid and shrimp dishes on their no-nonsense menu As B-3, Čopova 5/a, Knafljev prehod, tel. (+386) 1425 88 modern canteen geared towards the time-poor lunchtime office are pretty much guaranteed to be fresh as it’s all sourced from 22, www.gostilnaas.si. Exquisite presentation and service worker crowd, this bright orange restaurant looking not unlike the the local fish market located right next door. The lunch menu mark the legendary As out as one of the most expensive inside of a train (albeit a rather large one) provides both help- is a great value at €7.50, but make sure to stop by early as it’s dining experiences in the city. Brimming with antiques and well- yourself and waiter service and is good value for money if nothing only open during the day. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 behaved waiters, sit amidst opulent detritus and feast from a else. Highlights include ready-to-grab meals from the hotplates - 14:00. Closed Sun. (€3.30-7.70). JA6BS menu including more fancy dishes than you could eat in a year by the entrance and a slightly better than average salad bar. including baked potatoes with caviar, lamb cutlet with honey and QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (€2-39). PAGBSW truffles plus a battalion of fabulous desserts. QOpen 11:00 French - 24:00. (€4.50-31)PJAGB Restaurant 2000 B-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+386) 1476 Le Coq Blanc B-3, Gornji Trg 4, tel. (+386) 30 35 38 48, 69 25. A vast underground filling station for budget-conscious [email protected]. Occupying a large house in the heart Atrium G-2, Pot Za Brdom 55, tel. (+386) 147 02 700, city slickers such as construction workers, Korean business- of Old Town, you have a choice of several intimate dining rooms fax (+386) 147 02 708, www.hotel.mons.si. The menu at men and of course the obligatory sprinkling of students. Grab all boasting cosy antique furniture or outdoor seating on both the flagship restaurant of the Mons Hotel and Congress Centre a tray, throw on some meat, mashed potato, rice, salad, what- Gornji Trg and in a quiet corner of Levstikov Trg on the opposite is a sublime mix of the traditional and the contemporary. Clas- ever, don’t forget to pick up a soft drink, pay and eat. Find it deep side of the building. The food is excellent and the multi-course sic dishes are brought to life with modern twists, such as the inside the bowels of Maxi Market. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat daily specials are a great value. We also appreciate the small saddle of lamb served with pears and polenta. QOpen 12:00 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (€5-7). PJGBSW touches like home-made bread, lemon slices in our water and - 23:00. Closed Sun. €16. PTHULGKW

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Bachus Center B-3, Kongresni Trg 3, tel. (+386) 1241 82 include some truly memorable home-made soups, large and 48, [email protected], www.bachus-center.com. tasty salads and a few restrained yet delicious pasta dishes. Subterranean dining opposite the Philharmonia in the heart of Be warned though, the place is immensely popular, and the city, eat a wide range of international dishes under vaulted waiting for a table or simply having to go somewhere else is ceilings. As well as changing specials, the menu includes a fixed a common occurrence. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 list of treats including beef with truffles, octopus and a few veg- - 23:00. (€3-19). PJA6UGBXSW etarian options. Q Mon 08:00-23:00, Tue-Sat 08:00-06:00, Holidays 18:00-06:00, Sun Closed (€7-20). PJAEG Manna B-4, Eipprova 1a, tel. (+386) 1283 52 94, www. BSW kulinarika-manna.com. This high-class and expensive res- taurant bills itself as heavenly food here on earth, and as soon Cubo J-2, Šmartinska 55, tel. (+386) 1521 15 15, www. as you enter the interior positively glitters. The menu features cubo-ljubljana.com. Cubo’s difficult location doesn’t stop those some of the most rarefied ingredients Slovenia has ever seen foreigners and locals who appreciate good food and atmosphere such as Japanese wagyu beef as well as a full selection of both from turning up here in droves every day. Taking the very best Slovenian wines and some of the best wines and spirits from of the dining experience from décor to service to of course the around the world. Every detail is just so in this beautiful space food, they’ve come up with a truly inspiring place indeed. Opting and it was thus no surprise when the restaurant recently had for a minimalist approach with lots of dark woods and cool greys, the distinction of being visited for lunch by American First Lady the setting attracts everyone from business professionals to Laura Bush., you’ll see the picture commemorating the event families who come to feast on a regularly changing menu of as you enter the door. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. dishes including many inspired from Italy and the Mediterranean. (€10-30). PTJA6UGBS QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (€3-60). PAULGW Maxim B-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+386) 1476 69 80, [email protected], www.maxi.si. In the heart of the city centre Čupiterija B-3, Mestni Trg 4, tel. (+386) 59 712 368, this modern, business-orientated restaurant provides a fine [email protected]. Part café, part bar, part restaurant: menu of dishes including duck breast with mashed potatoes, Čupiterija, or Hijo de Puta as it is also known, is 100% original. soups, seafood, and a galaxy of fabulous puddings. There’s Located on Mestni Trg a couple doors down from Town Hall, a huge wine list too, and a nice terraced area complete with they serve lunch Monday to Saturday from noon to 16:00. In water features for quality outdoor summer dining. Popular lieu of menus, daily lunch specials are scrawled (in both English with professional locals and foreigners alike. QOpen 12:00 and Slovene) across a giant blackboard out front, and often - 18:00; 19:00-23:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (€40 include several pasta, steak and salad selections along with a and more). PJA6LEGBS couple random choices like chicken curry or artichoke risotto. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. (€6-10).TJAUGBK Most C-3, Petkovškovo nabrežje 21, tel. (+386) 1232 81 83, www.restavracija-most.si. As soon as you arrive to NEW this restaurant you’ll notice a framed food quality award next JB B-1/2, Miklošičeva 17, tel. (+386) 14 33 13 to the door. That gives a hint of what this restaurant has in 58/(+386) 14 74 72 19, www.jb-slo.com. Firmly en- store for you. It’s fairly obvious that a lot of thought went into trenched as one of the best restaurants in town, this fine dining the décor of this place. The pictures had wooden frames that experience comes courtesy of founder and head chef Janez had deliberately not been polished. Underneath them there Bratovž (hence the name). Located in one of Jože Plečnik’s was beautiful handwriting on the walls. It all gave the place a more imposing secessionist-style buildings, JB attracts a mix very rustic and cosy ambiance. Even the music was soothing. of well-to-do locals and visiting businessmen - guaranteeing Very romantic. The cutlery hanging from the lamps marred the you the chance to eavesdrop on conversations in a variety effect a bit, but that’s really nitpicking. The best part was, of of languages. The menu is comprised entirely of seasonal course, the food. Simply exquisite and very well decorated. specialities and changes daily, with exotic offerings such as It’s great. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PJAGK bear meat appearing from time to time. The only downside is the price, easily topping €50 per person for a proper meal with Plato B-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. (+386) 1230 84 80, www. wine. QOpen 11:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. plato.si. Located right in the centre of town next to one of Ljublja- na’s most recognisable modern buildings - a twisting white office Jurman F-2, Zaloška 151, tel. (+386) 51 358 358, www. tower that takes some interesting architectural liberties - this jurman-sp.si. Located on the outskirts of town, this popular newer restaurant is something of an oasis above the bustling family-friendly gostilna packs in the locals with a menu that square below. The lunch-time only menu is international with a seems to have a bit of everything and a somewhat kitschy focus on light and healthy Mediterranean-inspired dishes, and atmosphere that manages to include knights, a waterfall and can change daily depending on what is in season or just espe- an video arcade all under the same roof. It’s a good budget- cially fresh that day at local markets. If you’re not too keen on conscious option and the food isn’t half-bad either. QOpen the day’s set menus you can also order à la carte, although if you 11:00 - 22:00. (€5-12).PTAULGBS haven’t had a chance to brush up on your Slovene you may need one of the attentive waiters to translate. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Ljubljanski Dvor B-3, Dvorni Trg 1, tel. (+386) 1251 65 Closed Sat, Sun. (€4.5 - 22). PTJAGBXSW 55. Downstairs for vast pizzas served by a mixture of indifferent and pleasant waiters to a mixed clientele sat both inside and out. Polna Skleda G-2, Pot Za Brdom, tel. (+386) 1470 27 Upstairs for more of the same, only with the addition of grilled 00, www.hotel.mons.si. The Polna Skleda restaurant at the meats and other classic Slovenian dishes. Now an institution, Mons hotel and congress centre is a buffet-style place (unique, the terraces get thoroughly clogged with business professionals we think, in Ljubljana) whereby you can take your pick from a and tourists alike during the summer. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun vast variety of goodies displayed on an impresive counter in the 12:00 - 24:00. (€5-10). PTJA6UGBSW centre of the dining room. The various offerings and dishes of the day change regularly and give you the opportunity to try out Luka Gourmet Lunch Cafe B-3, Stari Trg 9, tel. (+386) differnet cuisines. For something a bit different or for a casual 1425 01 18, www.lunchcafe.net. Acres of stripped pine lunch or dinner it can’t be too highly recommended. QOpen and one of the best kitchen smells in the city, lunchtime feasts 07:00 - 22:00. €4,5 - €18. PTHAUGBK

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010 42 Restaurants Restaurants 43

Pri Vitezu B-3/4, Breg 20, tel. (+386) 1426 60 58, Kavalino C-3, Trubarjeva 52, tel. (+386) 1232 09 90, www.privitezu.si. Exquisite restaurant, widely recognized as www.kavalino.si. Hidden in a sloping cobblestone alleyway Mexican one of the city’s best. Though expensive (and we mean expen- between Trubarjeva and the river, this quaint Italian restaurant Cantina Mexicana B-3, Wolfova 4, Knafljev prehod, sive, you can spend a fortune here) it still offers great value specializes in Tuscan food. The first thing you see upon enter- tel. (+386) 1426 93 25, www.cantina-mexicana-restau- for money to people for whom high class food is paramount. ing is a tasteful dining area with an indoor tree in the corner rantes.si. Fun on two floors in one of the city’s most popular We recommend everything on the menu, as well as the daily that rises up to a skylight. Further back there’s a smaller courtyards, Cantina Mexicana is positively aglow with bright lunch menu which your waiter will recite to you. We especially dining area under a vaulted brick ceiling, and upstairs is a colours, strange sculptures, grass growing on the ceiling and like the Caesar Salad: slightly different to what you might be café. The service might not be the friendliest, but at least some nice lighting tricks behind the long ground-floor bar. The used to and all the better for it. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed it’s efficient, and the varied and tasty lunch specials are food is classic Tex-Mex as you’d expect, and appears to be fairly Sun. (€8-50). TJA6UGBXS downright cheap. Definitely worth finding. QOpen 09:00 popular. If nothing else, this is one of the quirkiest and silliest - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€6-18). PT� places in the city centre and even if you’re not hungry is well Rožna Hiša H-2, Rožna Dolina II/3, tel. (+386) 12 56 47 JA6GBXSW worth a visit for a drink or two. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 95, [email protected]. We’ve always had the 09:00 - 03:00. (€4,90-16,90). PTJA6GBSW impression that this is one of the places Slovene university La Storia C-1, Linhartova 3, tel. (+386) 1234 45 professors like to take visiting academics for a relaxed meal 92, [email protected], www.lastoria.si. This large and Imperio Mexicano J-2, Šmartinska 152/G, tel. (+386) their first day in town. The menu has a bit of everything, the lovely trattoria sits inside a bustling but decaying old 1523 31 65, fax (+386) 1523 31 66, www.imperio.si. De- prices are reasonable and whole place has a warm congenial shopping center not far from the center, and caters to cent and good value if not award winning Tex-Mex food, where atmosphere that’s conducive to lingering over a post-meal a daily horde of office workers and students with its our only gripe would be that the cheddar used on the nachos espresso or bottle of wine - especially when sitting outside on a authentic pizza and pasta offerings. While other restau- was not the best. Great cocktails, an outsdnaing house white, warm night. Of course, the fact that it’s located in Rožna Dolina, rants serve pasta and Italian dishes as an afterthought, and great big portions of all your Tex-Mex favourites: the chicken a quiet university neighbourhood, might have something to do true Italian food is the focus here, and the ample staff tortillas were particularly good. For big groups shopping in City with it as well. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, will make sure you get yours fast and hot. QOpen Park, you can’t do much better. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (€5-22). PALBS 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (€5-10). 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. PTAULGSW PTJA6GB Separé Café Koprska 92, tel. (+386) 12 44 16 34, Joe Peña’s B-2, Cankarjeva 6, tel. (+386) 1421 58 00, www.separe.si. Conveniently located near the motorway in Pasta Nona B-2, Gosposvetska 2, tel. (+386) 1438 www.joepenas.si. A combined cantina and cocktail bar with a Mestni Log - one of Ljubljana’s quickly expanding commercial 24 24. Scrubbed pine tables and an air of casual sophis- fine garden to boot, they’ve got it just right, from the general scruffi- districts - Separé is a great place for a quick business lunch tication await those looking for one of the finest lunch ness of the place through to the smell of limes and cumin that hits or leisurely post-meeting dinner. Its Mediterranean-inspired spots in town. Drop by this magnificent little eatery for you as you open the door. The food’s pretty good, being the stand- menu is served by attentive professional waiters, who will big plates of steaming pasta, wonderful sauces, some ard Mexican dishes as found throughout the world including fajitas, gladly rattle off the day’s specials in English or recommend great salads and, best of all, a dustbin-sized help-yourself enchiladas et al, plus there’s a decent menu of vegetarian options something from the overwhelming wine list. The stylish Super attractive people eat waffles, and so should you! barrel of couscous. Tucked up away from the action in the to keep everyone happy. One of the best atmospheres in the city modern interior is divided into several separate spaces for heart of the city-centre business district, this place fills that’s guaranteed to please all but the fussiest of patrons. Highly a more intimate dining experience, and there’s also a large Wild West Saloon H-2, Tržaška 69, tel. (+386) 12 up fast. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€5-10). recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun covered terrace out front. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 56 72 79/(+386) 70 839 422, www.wild-west-saloon. PTJAGSW 12:00 - 24:00. (€3-14).PTJA6GBSW - 22:00. Closed Sun. (€6-19). PALBW com/. Before even glancing at the menu, you have to give them credit for the authentic-looking façade and an interior full Skriti Kot B-2, Ajdovščina 4, tel. (+386) 1430 22 06, of native American paraphernalia, toilets that read ‘hombres’ www.skritikot.com. The name translates to “Hidden Corner”, and ‘conchitas’ and a (hopefully) fake buffalo head above the and this restaurant, which is hidden deep under the SKB build- bar. The food is Slovene-style Tex-Mex along with steaks, ing, certainly is. Serving pasta and Slovenian standards to a burgers and rather surprisingly a whole page of salads. regular flow of local workers and students, this windowless Sticking with the wild west theme, all the dishes are served nook is just the right place for tucking in to a reasonably-priced in gut-busting American sized portions that, if you manage to meal while hiding from your tour group. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. finish, will leave you in a need of a siesta. The lunch specials Closed Sat, Sun. (€7-32). TA6UGBXS are a great deal at less than €6. QOpen 07:30 - 22:30, Sat 10:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (€5-21). A6LBS Slon B-2, Slovenska 34, tel. (+386) 1470 11 00, fax (+386) 1251 71 64, [email protected], www. hotelslon.com. Officially one of the best restaurants in the Italian city (they have an award to prove it), the eatery at the Best Allegria B-2, Nazorjeva 8, tel. (+386) 1426 74 02, www. Western Slon is well worth your time. The central location, allegria.si. A veritable corner of Tuscany in Slovenia, Allegria the delightfully simple - mainly Mediterranean - menu and the promises to bring the scent of the Tuscan hills and the atmos- outstanding service all help to make it special. Try and bag phere of the stark landscapes across the Alps - and admirably one of the tables overlooking the lounge: among the most succeeds. With a menu longer than Alitalia’s creditor list, there’s sought-after in the city. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:30 plenty to choose from, be it delicate ravioli and lasagne dishes, or - 24:00. PTJHAULGKW fragrantly grilled meat or fish. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (€2.30-20.20). PAGB Stara Mačka B-3, Krojaška 8, tel. (+386) 1251 17 49, [email protected], www.staramacka.si. Like all the Azur H-2, Cesta Na Brdo 33, tel. (+386) 1423 24 23, www. restaurants and cafes along the Ljubljanica the focus here is on pizzeria-azur.si. A bright orange beacon in the middle of non- the outside experience and this restaurant/bar aims to create a descript suburbs, walk right in and past the freaky statue (which sort of Miami vibe in their area along the river; with Latin music appears to be a homeless person begging for change) and into blaring on the stereo, a drink list featuring tropical cocktails and this wide open and friendly pizza and risotteria. The menu is full of cigars, and a staff of attractive waiters. The food here is pricey various types of pizza and while they give their risottos top billling, steakhouse. You can also enjoy light meals, like various salads they actually have more pasta offerings. It is clear from the familiar or sea food and then top them with tasty desserts. They are air that this place is full of regular repeat customers and it is cer- the only restaurant where serve food till 01:00. From a crisp tainly family friendly and even tourist-friendly despite its distance cocktail before dinner to a full course meal without ever having from the center. If you’re headed back from the zoo, this could be to leave the comfort of the house. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sun a good lunch or dinner stop for you. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, 09:00 - 23:00. (€5-20)TJA6UEGBXW Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (€4.90-12.90). PTAUGB

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010 44 Restaurants Restaurants 45

at the large bar from where the food is cooked and served. Pizza Find an empty stool, make your order and away you go. Foculus B-3, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1421 92 95, And while you’re waiting for your pizza to arrive, take a look [email protected], www.foculus.com. Magnificently deco- at the large photographs on the wall of the construction rated once you’re through the slightly out of place automatic of the area you’re eating in. Find it hidden away down the doors, with autumn leaves painted on the vaulted ceilings and stairs and on the right at the southern end of Maxi Market. red, yellow and orange plates built into the roof of the large QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (€4-6). wood-fired pizza oven. The large and busy Foculus specialises TJA6ULGBXSW in 66 varieties of pizza, including 20 for vegetarians and eight with seafood. The salads are also particularly good. The Pizzeria Osmica B-2, Nazorjeva 8, tel. (+386) 1426 service can be a little slow at times, but the wait is generally 58 72. Located on the narrow pedestrian street that runs more than worth it. Recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. parallel to Čopova, Osmica is essentially the pizza and (€5.70-8.40). PTJAUGBS salad annex of the longer-running Allegria in the courtyard around the corner. An impressive-looking menu of twenty Parma B-3, Trg Republike 2, tel. (+386) 1426 82 22, salads and perhaps twice as many pizzas are on offer in www.picerija.net/parma.htm. A quirky little one, this. As a comfortable faux-rustic setting - think lots of wood and well as a couple of ordinary tables, most dining here is done stone with an open kitchen. Every time we’re here the serv- ice seems to range between leisurely paced to infuriatingly slow, but as far as the food is concerned we’ve yet to be Burek disappointed. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (€4.70-7.80). JABS Bu re k i s t h e universal and ubiquitous Bal- Quick Eats kan snack that Delikatesa Ljubljanski Dvor B-3, Kongresni Trg 11, tel. simply has to (+386) 1426 93 27. The acclaimed Ljubljana restaurant’s be tried when fast food outlet offers such tantalising takeaway options as you’re in the re- good value slices of hot gooey pizza, meat, salad, lasagne gion. From the and cold drinks. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (€2-25). Turkish word bur, PTJAGBS meaning to twist, burek comes in Falafel C-2, Trubarjeva 40/(+386) 041 64 01 66, www. all manner of alja-shaar.com/falafel.htm. A tiny little place churning shapes and sizes but are essentially a baked filo pastry out delicious falafel-based delicacies plus the usual array snack with a savoury filling, usually flavoured minced of pizzas and burgers. An excellent choice for vegetarians beef, cheese and/or spinach, best enjoyed with the ad- on the move, expect long queues during the busy lunchtime Žak Dalmatinova 2. Located under the hulking Ajdovščina Gostilna Kovač J-1, Pot k Savi 9, tel. (+386) 1537 12 dition of lashings of plain yoghurt. Burek can be found period. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (€1-7). building just off a busy crossroads, this French style bakery 44, [email protected], www.kovac-co.si. Well out of town ready to eat, cheap and piping hot in bakeries and spe- JA6UGS whips up tasty snacks that, judging by the constant lines, near the Tomačevo roundabout, Gostilna Kovač has been serv- ciality places operating out of little more than an open tempt a fair number of workers from the surrounding of- ing up Slovenian cuisine with traditional kindness since 1840. window, especially around the bus station. Variations on Hot Horse A-1, Tivoli Park kiosk, tel. (+386) 1521 14 fices to extend their smoke breaks. Their freshly-prepared There’s plenty of emphasis on meat and fish. Inside, antiques the burek theme can be found as far and wide as Israel, 27, www.hot-horse.si. Eating horses may horrify most Brit- sandwiches cost a little more than the pre-packaged brands and wooden beams create a rustic atmosphere, while there’s where they have the burekas, and even in Lithuania ish visitors, but that’s only because they’ve watched too much found in all the supermarkets but are well worth the premium. a lovely porch and terrace for al fresco dining. Very popular with where they eat something not unlike a burek that they Mr Ed and have never tried it. It’s low in fat, rich in proteins and QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. (€1- wheeling and dealing business types. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. call a čeburekai. Enjoy. easy to digest - so swap your steed for a car and get grilling. 3.50). JS Closed Sat, Sun. (€10-100). PAUBW Hot Horse serves healthy horseburgers from a small kiosk in Ajda C-1/2, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 13, tel. (+386) Tivoli Park and just outside BTC. QOpen 09:00 - 06:00, Mon Gostilna Lovec A-3, Trg Mladinskih Delovnih Brigad 143 91 440. Not the best burek (or pizza, burgers, etc) in 10:00 - 06:00. (€1.50-5.50). J6UBXS Slovenian 1, tel. (+386) 1426 91 36. One of the more interesting town, but its location opposite the bus and train stations In a way, there’s no such thing as Slovenian - with sheep and individual gostilnas in town, Lovec provides a labyrinth and non-stop hours means it’s a decent option if you Konkurenca C-1/2, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 14, tel. and cows on it’s mountain pastures giving meat and milk of rooms with plenty of brick archways, some really fine old fancy a cheap bite before leaving town and don’t feel like (+386) 1430 52 26. Kebabs, burgers and burek to eat in products, the Mediterranean fresh providing seafood, green ceramic stoves, a broken piano on the wall, scores of walking the extra 50m to Konkurenca. Also has a smaller or take away around the clock just southwest of the train and and with influences from the Balkans, Austria and Italy, students of course, and something you don’t see in a gos- second location at Ajdovščina that does kebaps as well. bus stations. Look for the blinding yellow and green façade for you might as well call it world cuisine. One thing that is tilna every day - a salad bar. The food’s as good as you’ll get QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. (€1.50-4.90). PJGS some of the cheapest eats in town. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. unique is the gostilna, the traditional, rustic, family-owned anywhere like this, there are a few vegetarian options, and, Open 24hrs. (€1-5). J Slovenian inn providing affordable and honest homemade for that ultimate gostilna experience with an interesting twist, Nobel Burek C-2, Miklošičeva 30, tel. (+386) food that would make your granny grin. this one wins hands down. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 1232 33 92. A small kiosk close to the train and bus McDonald’s B-2/3, Čopova 14, tel. (+386) 1426 32 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (€3-13). JAGBS stations churning out steaming hot burek as well as 26, [email protected], www.mcdonalds.si. It’s McHere Figovec B-2, Gosposvetska 1, tel. (+386) 1426 44 pizza for those who like to do their fine dining in the if you McNeed it. Also inside the train station (open 07:00- 10, [email protected], www.figovec.si. White Mencigar Nobile D-3, Zarnikova 3, tel. (+386) 1439 street. Excellent value, excellent burek. Q Open 24hrs. 23:00), in BTC (open 08:00 - 24:00, Sunday 09:00 - 24:00) tablecloths, heaps of quality Slovenian wine and a pleasing 70 40, www.mencigar-nobile.com. Across the road from (€1-2). J6UXS with a drive-thru nearby open 24 hours and in several other mix of bits and bobs on the walls including old farming imple- St Joseph’s Church, Mencigor Nobile is a wonderfully unpre- locations in Ljubljana. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 ments, joints of meat and a television blaring out MTV cut tentious restaurant specialising in traditional food from the Olimpija B-2, Slovenska 58. Not one of our personal - 24:00. (€1-5). PTJNGBSW this one out from the humdrum mainstream gostilna scene. Prekmurje region of northeast Slovenia. The three dining areas, favourites, but judging by the crowds milling about out- Popular with both locals and foreigners alike, this really known as the Glažar, Janc and Goričko rooms are decorated side around the clock we’re in the minority. The servings Paninoteka B-3, Jurčičev Trg 3, tel. (+386) 1425 00 55, rather pleasing place dishes up above-par nosh such as with classic folk motifs and cooking utensils and are, as are the are huge and always hot, with four varieties of pie to www.paninoteka.si. The first sandwich bar in Ljubljana and the ghoulish-sounding horseflesh prosciutto and horseflesh clientele that frequent them, as a diverse as it gets. A popular choose from: cheese, meat, apple and pizza - the latter by everyone’s account still the best. Using the best ingredients beefsteak, alongside such amusing concoctions as ‘yang place for coffee and a break with teenagers and workers during being the overwhelming favourite among customers. Just stuffed inside large, delicious pieces of Italian bread, eat in or pig baked in oven’ and mushroom turkey. Joking aside, what the day, the evenings see a slightly classier crowd descending around the corner from Bavarski Dvor. QOpen 00:00 take out, hot or cold. One of the city’s latest institutions and a this place loses in translation it more than makes up for in for the excellent, good value food and occasional folk-related - 24:00. €2. JNXS highly recommended one it is too. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun the kitchen. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. nights of entertainment. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 09:00 - 23:00. (€1-7).J6UEGBXSW (€7-28). PTJA6UGBXSW - 22:00. Closed Sun. (€6-21). PTAGB

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010 46 Restaurants CAFÉS 47

Pizzicato C-4, Gornji Trg 33, tel. (+386) 1251 11 18, Valvasor B-3, Stari Trg 7, tel. (+386) 1425 04 55, info@ Ljubljana’s café culture has always been one of our favour- the attached international restaurant or as a pre-club venue [email protected], www.pizzicato.si. A house of valvasor.net, www.valvasor.net. If you are looking for fine ite things about the city. When the weather’s nice the en- for its hugely popular nightlife venue. Q Mon 08:00-23:00, traditional Slovenian cuisine in the old town with beautiful and dining in the heart of the city, Valvasor may be just the place tire old town is abuzz with activity at the pavement cafés Tue-Sat 08:00-06:00, Holidays 18:00-06:00, Sun Closed well-restore interior, Pizzicato serves traditional Slovenian for you. ‘Elegant’ and ‘tasteful’ are adjectives that could be that line nearly every street. During the colder months (€3.30-42). PAEG standards, pasta made fresh and with care. The staff is ex- used to describe both the décor and the menu. Seafood things move indoors, but thanks to the national smoking ceedingly helpful and tourist-friendly, and devoted to making features heavily in both the appetizers and mains sections ban you’re still apt to find a fair amount of patrons outside Bazilika Shop & Cafe C-2, Miklošičeva 22, tel. (+386) sure to they have happy guests and repeat visitors. QOpen though for the completely carnivorous there is also a good huddled under heat lamps and blankets puffing away on 41 530 539, [email protected]. Right next to the court- 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€5-9). PTJAGBX range of mouth-watering red meat options. If you find yourself coffee’s significant other. The most popular places can be house and in one the busiest areas of Ljubljana, this café is spoilt and confused by choice you could take advantage of found along the Ljubljanica on Cankarjevo Nabrežje and the closest thing you’ll find to an oasis in the city. As soon Pri Vodniku H-2, Vodnikova 65a, tel. (+386) 1505 59 07, the degustation menu and try a little of a lot. With an ex- Petkovškovo Nabrežje on the opposite bank, but with so as you enter, you’ll feel how you leave the bustle, noise, and [email protected], www.privodniku.si. Set in the building tensive wine list selected from all over Slovenia, Valvasor is many options to choose from just wandering around until gray of the city behind and are welcomed by very soothing where the poet Vodnik was born in 1758, now this pleasant open for lunch and dinner though it’s definitely best to book you find a place you fancy is never a bad option. oriental music and décor. A great place to come and study, Slovenian restaurant serves a la carte meals as well as several for the latter. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (€16-24). use your laptop or just surf the net. Try the excellent coffee set menus. Each of the menus offers a different overview of PTJAGBXS and sandwiches. Great service too. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. local specialities. For something special, take the time to try Symbol key Closed Sat, Sun. the 8-course slow food menu accompanied by good wine. For Vodnikov Hram C-3, Vodnikov Trg 2, tel. (+386) 1234 a really relaxed visit, you can stay on after dessert and sleep 52 60, [email protected], www.vodnikov-hram. P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted Café Plato B-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. (+386) 1230 84 80, in one of the guestrooms. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 si. Named after Valentin Vodnik, who’s widely regarded as [email protected], www.plato.si. A stylish and still relatively - 21:00. (€10-20). PTA6ULGBXSW one of the first Slovene poets and journalists and also lends E Live music S Take away new café offering a wide selection of great ice creams, cakes his name to the adjacent square, it’s one of the better known T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled and tiny tarts in a unique glass-walled space right in the Pr’ potic B-3, Stari Trg 21, tel. (+386) 1425 43 37, places to sample traditional Slovenian cuisine in Ljubljana. centre of town, its outdoor seating area is a fine place for [email protected]. Looking for lunch in Ljubljana? Want to go Dining under its vaulted brick ceilings is a recommended R Internet L Guarded parking some people watching on a sunny afternoon. There’s also somewhere specialising in local dishes? Then you could do experience, as is grabbing a coffee or ice cream on the ter- O Casino J Old Town location a restaurant upstairs, so if you’re feeling like a bit more much worse than taking advantage of Pr’ Potic’s set lunch menu race while you’re waiting for the nearby funicular railway to than a snack you may want to inquire about what’s on of- where you can enjoy a choice of two soups, two mains, salad and ferry you up to the castle. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi fer that day. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€2-3). desert, all eaten at either one of the outdoor tables or in the cosy - 24:00. (€5-50). PTA6ULGSW B Outside seating V Home delivery PTJA6GBXSW red and white interior. The a la carte menu has a range of hot and cold starters, soups, sides such as dumplings and grilled vegeta- Židana Marela H-1, Vodnikova 2, tel. (+386) 1515 Čez Cesto C-3, Ciril Metodov Trg 12, tel. (+386) 1470 bles. Factor in the wine list, friendly service and the good location 14 60, [email protected], www.zidanamarela. Bachus Lounge B-3, Kongresni Trg 3, tel. (+386) 47 07. Smack bang next to the cathedral, this unpreten- on the square at the end of Stari trg and you have an eatery that si. A fantastic idea whose time (surprisingly) never came 1241 82 42, [email protected], www.bachus- tious spot, clearly pandering to the trade from the local offers a budget option with the frills still attached. QOpen 11:00 before now, Židana Marela organizes Slovenian Nights at center.com. Buzzing pretty much any time of the day, market, rarely hears an English voice, making it well worth - 24:00. (€11-17). PTJA6EGBXSW Skriti Kot restaurant where they introduce attendees to Bachus’ ground-floor lounge area features good-looking more investigation. Find a small selection of beers, wine a typical Slovene meal, drink,customs, folk music, and clients, good-tasting coffee, a year-round garden for sipping and spirits and the most extraordinary white chandelier. Sokol C-3, Ciril Metodov Trg 18, tel. (+386) 1439 68 dances in a convenient 2.5 hour experience. At the end of cocktails under the stars, and a whole host of other fancy QOpen 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. 55, [email protected], www.gostilna-sokol.com. the night the whole room should be up on their feet and join- attractions. A popular Ljubljana A-list classic, handy for both TJAUGS Essential dining for almost everybody passing through as ing in on the raucous fun. QOpen 19:30 - 24:00. (€5-15). well as living in the city, Sokol is arguably the most famous of PJA6UGB all the traditional Slovenian restaurants in Ljubljana, if not all Slovenia. Several different rooms, all decorated in a traditional, rustic manner provide the ultimate fatty meat blow-out such Vegetarian as venison plate, game goulash or veal stew as well as a few Ajdovo Zrno B-2, Trubarjeva 7, [email protected], safer dishes including karst ham with olive, Ljubljana steak www.satwa.si/. This popular vegetarian café is tucked away plus limited fish and vegetarian options. The desserts are in a cute little courtyard just off Trubarjeva, a busy pedestrian equally punishing on the waistline, but well worth trying if you street. Colourful is the first word that springs to mind when can still fit one in after your main course. Look for the cheeky you enter, with bright walls and table cloths decorating the red chef by the entrance or listen for the chain-smoking Ameri- dining room and outdoor terrace. Food-wise there are loads cans swapping business stories on the front steps. QOpen of choices: everything from soups, sandwiches, tortillas and 06:00 - 23:00. (€7-21). PTJAUGBXS even lasagne to fresh fruits and juices, cakes, milkshakes and smoothies. It’s all served ‘pick and mix’ style from a canteen Špajza B-3, Gornji Trg 28, tel. (+386) 1425 30 94. An with every kind of vegetable you can imagine - and probably exceedingly classy affair with chunky, creaking wooden floors, even some you can’t. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. a number of different rustic-feel rooms to eat in, an extensive (€2-6). PJABS menu of Slovenian and international dishes, an excellent salad bar and an antique silver cash register in the entrance. Popular Vegedrom H-2, Vodnikova 35, tel. (+386) 1513 26 42, with many people including business professionals, tourists [email protected], www.vegedrom.com. A vegetarian and romantic couples, prices are high but still relatively afford- can certainly stuff themselves on vegetable pizzas and side able if you don’t come here every day. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, salads in the center of town, but if it is real healthy vegetar- Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (€7.50-10). JAGBS ian meals you are after then head to the outskirts and try Vegedrom. The restaurant creates vegetarian, organic and Stari Tišler C-2, Kolodvorska 8, tel. (+386) 1430 33 70, vegan meals inspired by Slovenian and Indian cuisine, with [email protected], www.stari-tisler.com. Only a short walk daily specials and special lunch sets that include soup, salad, from the main train station - in the direction of the moustachioed and a sweet. A worthwhile trek for something healthy and General Meister atop his trusty steed - Old Tišler’s has been delicious. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed serving up traditional Slovene cuisine for over a century. They Sun. (€4-10). TA6ULGBXS specialise in hearty soups, stews and goulashes, which means it’s a good place to try bograč, a Slovene favourite that is essentially a bowl of meat masquerading as stew. Daily lunch specials are a good value starting at €5, and there are a half dozen rooms ljubljana.inyourpocket.com available upstairs. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. (€5-20). PTJA6UGBXS

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010 48 cafÉs Nightlife 49

Cha (Čajna Hiša) B-3, Stari Trg 3, tel. (+386) 1252 70 was looking for. Populated by a group of people united by Ljubljana likes to party hard, and party late. The place 10, [email protected], www.cha.si. When it’s all just to much, it’s their love of interesting hats if not age, the roll-off-the-tongue goes positively Mediterranean during the summer, with tempting to just plonk down and have a cuppa. That’s exactly Okrepčevalnica Petkovšek is for sure one of the city’s top arty, cafés, bars and restaurants staying open well into the what Cha offers - a fine place to relax and watch the world hurry bookish places to meet other like-minded souls. QOpen early hours as locals and visitors alike simply forget to go by, while you much around with teabags. There’s a choice of black, 07:30 - 01:00. (€4-9). TJA6UGBS home. All of the city’s squares bustle into the early hours green, herbal and falvoured teas, with exotic tastes well catered too, with the city’s main square, Prešernov Trg, often still to. The classy porcelain crockery adds to the special feel of the Pri Semaforju B-3, Slovenska 5, tel. (+386) 40 893 664. packed with revelers until 03:00. Indeed, Prešernov Trg is place. An on-site shop sells the dry version too. QOpen 09:00 Translating as ‘by the traffic lights’, be welcomed in several something of a focal point for Ljubljana nightlife, with most - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. TJAGBS different languages on the fascias on entry, then choose to sit of the city’s best bars, clubs and cafés nearby. Also note either upstairs or downstairs depending on what takes your that this is by and large a very easy going city, and is no Čolnarna A-2, Tivoli Park (near the Ribnik, lake), tel. fancy. Lively, upbeat music provides a soundtrack for all manner such thing as a no-go zone. Do not worry about walking (+386) 1251 11 60, www.colnarna.com. Once upon a time of pierced teenagers to sit around and plan revolutions over home on your own late at night. this old café sold the best homemade cakes and sweets in town a limited selection of coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice, in the most beautiful setting around, but it is now 120 years in, spirits or beer. Scruffy and fun indeed. Don’t forget to leave and we all know age can make it hard to keep up. These days your granny in the hotel. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Symbol key while the surroundings are still quite lovely, the cakes are not bad Sun. TJ6UGBXSW and ice creams are delivered in a truck. Nonetheless, it merits P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted a stop for a cake, a coffee, and a peaceful moment in the park. SEM Kavarna D-2, Metelkova 2 (Ethnographic Museum), E Live music S Take away Bi-Ko-Fe B-3, Židovska Steza 2, tel. (+386) 14 25 93 93. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. TJ6UGBXS tel. (+386) 1300 87 00. A trendy, industrial-look café at- Situated on a sloping cobbled lane opposite the central uni- tached to the Ethnographic Museum featuring a glass floor, T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled veristy building, BiKoFe is something of a Mecca for hipsters Grajska Kavarna C-3, Ljubljanski grad (Ljubljana Cas- lots of wacky art, coffee, cakes and booze. Too pretentious for R Internet L Guarded parking (or at least the European equivalent), students, artists and tle), tel. (+386) 1439 41 40, www.grajska-kavarna.si. some perhaps, but a charming place all the same and certainly the like. The outside terrace is crowded from open till close Swanky, cool and chic in equal measures, Ljubljana Castle’s a place to meet some of the city’s more interesting characters. O Casino J Old Town location - thanks at least in part to the ban on smoking indoors - and very own café is housed inside a dismal-looking 1980s con- QOpen 08:30 - 23:00. PTJA6UGBXSW 6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi the entire place gets packed most nights, with an atmosphere crete monstrosity well overdue for a facelift. Retaining much more akin to a house party than a bar. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, of its original communist-era look, the interior is fun if you’re Slaščičarna Pri Vodnjaku B-3, Stari Trg 30, tel. (+386) B Outside seating V Home delivery Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. PJA6UBXSW in the area, and is a good place to stock up on fruit juice, 1425 07 12. Teddy bears, Cuban flags, accordions, cakes, ice- wine, coffee, beer, sandwiches and a Harry Potter ice cream. cream and lots of friendly people of all ages, some of them wear- Café Galerija B-3, Mestni Trg 5, tel. (+386) 40 245 780, QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. PTJA6GBSW ing funny hats. One long thin room and a larger space out the back Bars www.cafe-galerija.com. Right next door to Cupiterija you’ll for coffee and sweet treats hold a fascinating array of colourful Atrium G-2, Pot Za Brdom 55, tel. (+386) 147 02 700, find Café Galerija. As the name suggests, this café doubles as Kavarna Tromostovje B-3, Prešernov Trg 1, tel. (+386) characters. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (€1-5)TJ6GBXS fax (+386) 147 02 708, [email protected], www.mons. a gallery space. Along with the artworks and outdoor seating, 1430 12 18, www.kavarna-tromostovje.si. Here near si. The elegant bar at the Mons hotel is a cocktail lovers the café boasts a cool blue interior bar at the back, where Plečnik’s famed Tromostovje (Three Bridges), alongside the river, STA Travel Cafe B-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. (+386) 1 439 delight. There’s bar food too, as well as a cracking selection patrons can sit back and enjoy teas and coffees, snacks you can get a real feeling of the pulse of the city.This open-air 16 90, fax (+386) 1 439 16 95, [email protected]. of desserts. For an after-conference quick one it’s a must. and a range of alcoholic drinks - pretty much something for café is blessed with perhaps the best location in the city and There are a lot of pluses to this place despite the clinical The difficult bit is not ending up staying the whole evening. everyone of a legal drinking age. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00, Sun as such it seems to always be full with locals and tourists sitting sounding name. Set on a big terrace with a good view and QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PHLGKW 09:00 - 22:00. PJA6EGBXW with a coffee, enjoying great ice cream, soaking up local color, lots of tables it offers free Internet for patrons. When all that and sometimes even watching a daytime concert on the square. virtual surfing results in hunger pangs you can sate them QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. TJ6UENBXSW with your choice from a wide range of sandwiches. The TV is set to the travel channel so you can look at where you’ve Lan B-3, Gallusovo Nabrežje 27, tel. (+386) 1425 31 15. been, where you’re going or where you want to head off to A basic student café with a few interesting design features that next, and every second Wednesday you can attend the travel unfortunately the waitress on duty at the time couldn’t tell us presentations and wash all the free information down with anything about. There’s the most extraordinary moulded green beer, wine, coffee, tea or a soft drink. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. shelves you need to walk through to get in, and some truly Closed Sun. PJ6UGBXW inspiring lighting on the ceiling concealed inside large wooden boxes. QOpen 10:00 - 00:00, Fri 10:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:00 Top: Eat & Party A-3, Tomšičeva 2, tel. (+386) 40 177 - 00:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PJA6GBXSW 775, [email protected], www.klubtop.si. While this aptly named establishment makes no attempt to belie the fact that Le Petit Café B-3, Trg Francoske Revolucije 4, tel. (+386) it’s a club first and foremost, don’t let that dissuade you from 1251 25 75. On a leafy yet bustling square, tables of bubbly locals taking the glass elevator up to the roof during daylight hours. and clued-up visitors drink coffee, tea and look utterly Parisian with- Even as an afterthought the café still has the best views in out even trying. Every other cafe in Ljubljana wants to be this place, the city. Ljubljana’s almost too picturesque castle is perched and it is easy to see why. What’s more, it is not even expensive: on the leafy hilltop only a few hundred metres away, and more big omelets and tasty toasted sandwiches all come in at around steeples than you can (or at least would want to) count dot the €3.50. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00. PTJA6UGBS sky above the old town. A perfect place to linger on a sunny afternoon. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:30 Maček B-3, Krojaška 5, tel. (+386) 1425 37 91, www. - 05:00. Closed Sun. PJAEGBKW macek-lj.si. Reassuringly scruffy after so many good-looking places in the area, gurgle down some tea, coffee or something Zvezda B-2, Wolfova 14 & Slovenska 34, tel. (+386) a little stronger in the safe confines of four bright orange walls 1421 90 90, [email protected]. A bustling café decorated with some nice black and white photographic por- frequented by a battalion of clients from students to pearl- traits of both people and Ljubljana itself. Extremely popular laden old ladies. Zvezda’s décor leans in the direction of your with families toting young children during the weekends. classic Buddha lounge, with a scattering of Oriental statues QOpen 09:00 - 00:30. TJA6GBSW and some fine brown velvet wallpaper. Not the cheapest café in town, your money is at least well spent. The coffee is Okrepčevalnica Petkovšek C-3, Petkovškovo strong enough to wake the dead, and the cakes are some of Nabrežje 15, tel. (+386) 41 620 935. A really pleasant, the best and stickiest in town. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun quiet café by the water, this could be what the person who 10:00 - 20:00. Slovenska 34 open: 08:00-22:00, Sun 10:00- needs a little time with a book and a decent cup of coffee 20:00. (€2,80-3). PTJAUGBSW

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010 50 nightlife nightlife 51

- and deservedly so, as it occupies one of the coolest loca- tions in the Ljubljana. Located below street level along the Hribar Quay, it offers a quieter, more relaxed atmosphere than can be found at the strip of bars and cafés on the Ljubljanica’s opposite bank (or at least on nights when they forego the techno). QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.

Opera Bar B-2, Cankarjeva 12, tel. (+386) 1421 03 90, www.opera-bar.com. A bright, large, colourful space popular with many of the city’s more well-heeled residents, including those who like to attend the opera house across the street, Opera Bar is your classic café-bar. It brims with good- looking types drinking coffee during the day and something a little stronger later on. The Australian-Slovenian ownwership explains the huge Aborigine-style painted ceiling and walls. QOpen , Mon, Tue, Wed 07:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. PJHAEGBXS

Rollbar J-2, Hala 18 (BTC City), tel. (+386) 1585 25 70, www.indoor-karting.com. Another reason to visit the huge BTC complex is this extraordinary place. Taking the gimmick of the race-car-theme-drinking-hole to its logical conclusion, this subterranean boozer not only comes complete with enough racing paraphernalia to start your very own F1 museum, it’s actually got a go-kart racing circuit. There are no drink-driving laws here, just a bunch of electric go-carts and a hangar-size space to wiggle them through. Not quite as tame as it sounds, these go-carts when running on full power have a top speed of 120kph, restricted for obvious reasons here to a more sensible albeit still stupidly fast 65kph. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:30, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. AUEGBXW

Roxly C-2, Mala 5, tel. (+386) 41 399 599, info@roxly. si, www.roxly.si. It’s all in the timing so they say. Spread over two floors, the Roxly provides a dual function by offer- Conestoga C-2, Trubarjeva 43, [email protected]. Doesn’t ing meals by day and music by night. The coffee bar and look all that much from the outside: only a barrel or two gives away restaurant is popular during the daylight hours, with a good the fact that this a drinking den, and nothing that this is in fact a live wine and cocktail list, a menu made up of local and interna- music venue par excellence. The tiniest stage in Ljubljana (Europe tional dishes and a view of the castle from the outdoor dining even) hosts live acts most evenings playing blues, jazz and rock. area. By night, DJs and live music, mainly of the blues and Take home a souvenir t-shirt, a bargain €9. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. rock varieties, keep this place rolling along until three in the JRUEGB morning, providing a welcome alternative to the ubiquitous dance music found in most late-night venues. QOpen 07:00 Čupiterija B-3, Mestni Trg 4, tel. (+386) 59 712 368, - 02:00, Thu, Fri 07:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. Closed [email protected]. This place may be located on Mestni Sun. (€6-18). PJAEGBXS Trg in the heart of Old Ljubljana, but don’t let that fool you: it’s the epitome of funky - in a good a way. First of all it also Slon Lounge B-2, Slovenska 34 (Best Western Slon), tel. goes by the name Hijo de Puta, a mildly vulgar Spanish phrase (+386) 1470 11 55, www.hotelslon.com. If Ljubljana were (if you’re not sure what it means we don’t want to ruin the a village, this would be the village pub. This legendary bar in the surprise). Then there’s the interior, a dizzying hodge podge of legendary hotel of the same name is the kind of place where Gaudi-inspired colours and textures spreading through several people arrange to meet, and where they can sink back in comfort- rooms and multiple levels. It’s also one of the only places in able armchairs, chatting while they knock back a devilishly good town where we feel obligated to forego our usual beer and coffee or cocktail in an atmosphere that’s at once business-like whiskey and order cocktails to go along with the free nightly and relaxed. An almost circular affair with huge windows overlook- tapas. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. PJAGBS ing the busy street outside, this is most people’s first choice for informal get togethers. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:30 Lar’s Bar C-3, Gornji Trg 23. Sleek lines and more than a - 24:00. (€7-15). PJAUGBKXSW mod towards Scandinavian design at this sublime little bar on a quiet central side street. Owned and run by the eponymous Stara Mačka B-3, Krojaška 8, tel. (+386) 1251 17 Lars, expect a wide range of Scandinavian cocktails, many of 49, www.staramacka.si. The ground floor space of this which are mixed to perfection on the biggest vodka cocktail combined cocktail bar and steak house restaurant has opted list we’ve seen this side of Oslo. Offbeat nights in Ljubljana for something along the lines of a Cuban vibe, with plenty of should both begin and end here. QOpen 15:00. - 01:00, Sat Cuban cocktails on the menu to accompany the Cuban music 11:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PJGB and cigars also on offer. Upstairs find a small restaurant with lots of classic 60s-style red lampshades turning out a reasonable NEW menu of appetizers, steaks, fresh salads and seafood dishes. Makalonca B-3, Hribarjevo Nabrežje 19, tel. (+386) 40 For those who can’t be bothered to move too far from where 42 71 67, [email protected], www.makalonca. they eat to where they end up drinking, Stara Mačka may well si. After several years hiatus, and several months of renova- prove too tempting to resist. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 tions, Makalonca reopened this autumn with much fanfare - 23:00. (€4-15).PJA6UGBKXSW

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Tombstone Saloon B-4, Eipprova 19, tel. (+386) Biljardna Hiša Parmova 25, tel. (+386) 1236 20 12, Ꚛš­„‘Œ„¾†˜ ­–Œê 1283 14 13. Complete with authentic cowboy saloon-type www.biljardna-hisa.com. Ljubljana’s most popular billiards swinging doors to get unceremoniously thrown through place is a few minutes walk north of the city centre in Bežigrad. after you’ve drunk the bar dry and insulted the sheriff, this Consisting of one large open space underneath exposed wood ridiculously silly, wooden-clad, cowboy-theme bar comes rafters the interior feels rather barn-like, which is pretty much with the usual prerequisite wagon wheels on the ceiling exactly what we look for in a pool hall. There’s also a large glass- and cowboy hats on the walls, plus classic rock howling enclosed self-service smoking area - although unfortunately they out of the CD player and sport on the television vying have yet to cram any pool tables in there. You can expect at least for attention at the same time. Definitely one to put on a short wait for a table at the weekends, so don’t forget to get your pub-crawl list if that’s what you’ve come here to do. your name on the list. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. ALX TJA6ULEGBXSW m•Œ‡„œ±ê¢§­ê¡¡­êª©±

Zlata Ladjica B-3, Jurčičev Trg 1, tel. (+386) 12 41 06 Casinos wvwêklzpnuꚌ—‹êtpyhuêy|khu 96, [email protected], www.zlataladjica.si. The ‘Golden Ship’ The automated casino, or gaming saloon, has arrived in a big has lots of vaulted ceilings, pictures of sailing ships, rigging, way - no more croupiers saying rien ne va plus, but no more sails and a DJ booth inside a wooden barrel, the rum selec- strict dress code either, though you still won’t get in wearing z„—˜•‡„œ±ê¢¨­ê¡¡­êª© tion is surprisingly lacking in variety and there’s not a sailor jogging clothes. You’ll need to be 18 and carry ID to enter. in sight, but it beats the lacklustre banality of most Irish pubs thupshêkpzjvêml}ly±ê–“ˆ†Œ„êŠ˜ˆ–—–®êrviyhêupno{z any day of the week. As well as the main bar area there are Casino Kongo Ljubljanska 65, 1290 Grosuplje, also a couple of smaller rooms for more intimate moments, tel. (+386) 1781 02 00, [email protected], www. m•Œ‡„œ±ê¤­ê¡¢­êª©± and one of central Ljubljana’s biggest terraces. There’s often kongo-hc.com. An African-themed gaming hall with €3 drink specials at the weekend - check the signs outside electronic roulette and scores of slot machines. Once {olêipnlz{êzsv}luphuêthslêwvwêhy{pz{ for what’s on offer. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. inside, soft drinks and food are on the house, though PTJA6UEGBKXSW there are two African restaurants (plus the ‘Kanibal’ self- service buffet) on site too. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri z„—˜•‡„œ±ê¡¡­ê¡¢­êª© Žmauc A-3, Rimska 21, tel. (+386) 1251 03 24. Ask 12:00 - 02:00. Admission €10 (includes gambling tickets). any tuned-in local to make a list of their favourite bars and POAULEGBKXW ꉄ–‹Œ’‘ê–‹’š±ê“„•—œêšŒ—‹êlŽ–Ž˜Œ™‘’­–Œ they’re almost certain to put this place on the list. Covered jv{vꚌ—‹êupuhêw|shy± in quality graffiti outside and always featuring a huddle of Casino Lev B-2, Vošnjakova 1 (Hotel Lev), tel. (+386) „‘‡êt„•Ž’êz’•O„Ž¾z’ŽŒ®êl™Œ–êq„†Ž–’‘ꇕ˜ê–‹’š interesting-looking individuals smoking suspiciously large 1518 56 46, [email protected], www.casinolev. cigarettes by the entrance, the exterior is but a mild prelude com. Slot machines, gaming tables and some of the best- to what’s inside. A smallish L-shaped bar is packed day and looking waitresses on the planet in the basement of the z„—˜•‡„œ±ê¡©­ê¡¢­êª© night with more strange characters amidst an interior design hotel of the same name. Q Open 24hrs. No admission. scheme straight from the pages of a Manga comic. Excellent POJHAULEG zv|sêmpunlyz for coffee or something a little stronger. Highly recommended. QOpen 07:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. Grand Casino Ljubljana H-1, Dunajska 154, tel. PJA6GB (+386) 1436 13 69, [email protected], www.ca- m•Œ‡„œ±ê¢¥­ê¡¢­êª©±êê sino-lj.si. Every temptation under the sun for those with money to burn, next door to the Austria Trend hotel. Slot tpyvê{vkvzv}zrpꄑ‡ê|qkpêihuk Billiards machines and playing tables with live croupiers. QOpen 7edma Lukna J-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC Hala A), tel. 15:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 05:00. Open 24hrs. Admission €5. (+386) 1585 14 89. On the basement level in BTC’s Hala POJAULEGW z„—˜•‡„œ±ê¢¦­ê¡¢­êª©±ê A shopping centre, this place does a commendable job of hiding its existence from the general public - not a difficult thupshêjoypz{thzêwhy{€êšŒ—‹êkqêhunlsêhu feat when your main entrance is at the bottom of a loading Clubs ramp. Despite their modern location they have the good As Lounge B-3, Čopova 5, Knafljev prehod, tel. (+386) sense to turn the lights down low enough to maintain a 1425 88 22, www.gostilnaas.si. This fabulous lounge is {‹˜•–‡„œê£¡­ê¡¢­êª©±ê certain level of seediness that should be obligatory for any the third string to the three-string bow that is As. Featuring self-respecting pool hall. Perhaps most importantly the lots of laid-back browns and oranges with comfortable sofas thupshêµzwhyrspun´êul~ê€lhyêwhy{€ tables are nice and prices low: €5-7 per hour for groups and and a mix of well-heeled clients, enjoy loads of cocktails and only €2 for loners who prefer to play by themselves. QOpen DJs in a chill-out environment that’s one in a million. Private 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. parties also available. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, 6XW Tue, Sun. PAG

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010 54 nightlife nightlife 55

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Bachus B-3, Kongresni Trg 3, tel. (+386) 1241 82 44, [email protected], www.bachus-center. Wine Bars com. One of the longest running nightclubs in the centre of Ljubljana, this place accordingly bursts with people Viticulture in Slovenia has been refined over the whenever there’s something good going on. Running centuries in the country’s three wine growing regions the gamut of themed nights appealing to everyone from producing a vast selection of excellent quality wines, students to those looking for the best DJs in the city, this predicate wines and sparkling wines. You can encoun- is currently the liveliest place in town for everyone to let ter all pleasures at any of the traditional gostilnas or their hair down and have some good old-fashioned fun. wine cellars found in almost every street in Ljubljana. QOpen 08:00 - 06:00, Mon 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. To make your choice easier try wines such as Teran, PJAEG Rumeni Muskat, Malvazija and Rebula from the coastal region. Cviček, a Slovene wine with a light taste and low alcohol is a specialty of the Posavje Region along with wines such as Renski Rizling, Traminec, Sauvignon, www.inyourpocket.com Chardonnay and Ranina. Dvorni Bar B-3, Dvorni Trg 2, tel. (+386) 12 51 12 57, [email protected], www.dvornibar.net. This large L-shaped adventure is a pleasant café during the InBox J-3, Jurčkova 224, tel. (+386) 1600 50 once through the doors you’ll be part of a hip crowd rang- day and the city’s trendiest wine bar by night. There’s 86/(+386) 040 47 79 61, [email protected], www.in- ing in age from their teens to their late 30’s. Check out the a swanky jazzy area at one end for more wine-oriented box-club.si. This massive warehouse-style venue on the website for a glimpse at what’s upcoming and a taste test patrons, while the other side is a little more geared southern outskirts of town has been packing in Slovene of the sounds you’re likely to hear. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00, towards the restaurant crowd. With upwards of 100 clubbers, under one guise or another, for the better part Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00, Sun 15:00 - 02:00. (€3-16). varieties of wine in stock it’s a great place to sample of a decade. It generally attracts a younger crowd that PJALEGBXW local vintages if you don’t have time to trek out to one of always comes to party, and is where you’re most likely to Slovenia’s wine growing regions, and organised tastings to find big-name international DJs in Slovenia. From time to KMŠ A-3, Tržaška 2, tel. (+386) 1425 74 80, info@ are held every second Wednesday from 20:00-22:00. time it also hosts pop or rock acts and has random theme klubkms.si, www.klubkms.si. If you’re young and a student QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (€4.50-15). nights, such as the reoccurring Hawaii Party, where tropi- (or at least look like one), here’s a great place to have some PTJHA6UEGBKXSW cal attire is not only encouraged but obligatory. QOpen , fun with the rest of Ljubljana’s dynamic youth. Numerous Wed, Thu 21.00 - 4.00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Admission: concerts and DJ nights are programmed for the weekends Movia B-3, Mestni Trg 4, tel. (+386) 1425 54 48, Free to €26 depending on the event (check their website and the occasional weekday. Drink to your heart’s content www.movia.si. The Slovenian Movia vineyards have for details). PALEG as the booze is by far the cheapest in town. QOpen 08:00 been producing quality plonk for longer than anyone can - 22:00, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. Closed in August. remember, and this, their little showcase wine bar in the Klub K4 B-2, Kersnikova 4, tel. (+386) 1438 02 61, Admission €0,5. PJA6EGW old town, is a fine place to come and try some of their [email protected], www.klubk4.org. If you’re staying excellent products. Found slightly hidden away inside in a hotel in this part of town and your bed starts bouncing Orto Bar E-1, Grablovičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1232 16 74, a little covered courtyard, Movia is barely bigger than across the room in the middle of the night, the chances [email protected], www.orto-bar.com. A combined bar a telephone box, features extremely friendly staff, and are the culprit can be found inside Club K4. A very student- and live music venue dedicated to the glorious and mostly even serves a selection of food especially prepared to oriented club indeed, it’s hot and sweaty and the DJs play unpretentious world of rock music, filled nightly with a well- compliment the wines on offer. Recommended. QOpen some of the weirdest, hardest stuff in the country. Brilliant behaved crowd in leather jackets etc, drinking the night away 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PYJ6UGBX stuff. Sunday is the pink party night, the only party night in and taking advantage of one of the few regular live music town for the gay community. Q Open Tue from 22:00, Wed- venues in the city. The bar is worth visiting on its own. Long Wine Cellars of Slovenia (Vinske Kleti Slo- Sat from 23:00, Sun from 22:00. Mon closed. Admission €7. and thin, there’s a line of old turning ventilators along one wall, venija) C-1, Dunajska 18, tel. (+386) 14 31 50 PJAG giving the place a futuristic, Mad Max feel. QOpen 08:00 15, [email protected], www.vks.si. The - 05:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 08:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 21:00. oldest and largest wine shop in the country naturally has Klub SubSub A-1, Celovška 54a, [email protected], PALEGBX a classy restaurant attached where discerning diners www.subsub.si. The oldest club in Ljubljana doesn’t really may sample some, or all, of the 80 wines on the menu. get going until about 1 am but when it does it doesn’t let This is a place where the choice of good Slovenian up until 5 or 6 in the morning. Specialising in ‘good music’, dishes is based on the wine, rather than the other way with underground DJs and bands, SubSub attracts a mix Read more online round. Recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 17:00 of locals and tourists who want to hear the full gamut of - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€6-20). PALGBKX alternative dance tracks from hip hop to funk to reggae. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com The cover charge depends on who is spinning or playing and

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010 56 nightlife nightlife 57

Zlati Zob E-2, Zaloška 69, tel. (+386) 59 13 95 52. Pubs While Slovenia enjoys a new life in the EU and puts its Yugo- Cutty Sark B-3, Knafljev Prehod 1, tel. (+386) 1425 14 slavian days behind it, in Ljubljana you can still find echoes of 77. One of the most popular bars in the city and frequented by NON-STOP the many cultures that made up that old land, and at Zlati all manner of locals and expats, Cutty Sark provides two dark NON-STOP Zob the city’s new “ethno-club” those echoes can take the bars and a summer terrace, childish art on the walls, model ships form of a singer’s wail or a throbbing balkan gypsy beat. The and the world’s biggest chewing gum machine. Featuring a good 0 - 24 cafe/club’s interior, full of Balkan artifacts and traditional selection of local and international beer, find it bursting with instruments hanging off the walls, hints at the raucous nights interesting specimens most evenings. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, of music and dancing that occur when the sun goes down and Sun 15:00 - 01:00. PTJA6UEGBXSW various regional artists and DJ entertain the crowd. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. Guinness Pub B-3, Gosposka 3, tel. (+386) 1426 62 93, PALEGBXW www.guinnesspub.net. Enough Guinness mirrors to keep everyone in town high for a week, plenty of comfortable cubby holes and a splendid little summer courtyard in the heart of the Jazz Clubs student district. Draught beers include Guinness plus Kilkenny Gajo Jazz Club B-2, Beethovnova 8, tel. (+386) 1425 and that old English 80s favourite, Woodpecker cider. Friendly 32 06, www.jazzclubgajo.com. Roll over Beethoven - this and different enough to be worthy of at least a little plaudits, put is perhaps Ljubljana’s most famous Jazz venue, with regular this one on your pub-crawl list for sure. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, jam sessions (Monday nights), concerts by local and inter- Sat, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. PJA6UGBX national artists and other events. besides listening to music, it’s a great place for a few beers too. During the summer Patrick’s Irish Pub C-2, Prečna 6, tel. (+386) 1230 months the club moves outdoors to a garden opposite the 17 68. Smoking bans can cause many changes to the fabric main entrance to the National Gallery on Tomšičeva. The of a society, not least to the basic atmosphere of the clas- programme can be found on the club’s English-language sic Irish pub. Long gone now is the lingering nicotine smog website. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. that helped shape the style of this cellar bar, but the overall PJAEGS atmosphere remains more or less intact. Popular with locals, expats and tourists alike, the bar stocks all your favourite Sax Pub B-4, Eipprova 7, tel. (+386) 1283 14 57. This Irish tipples, served by a gaggle of cheery bar staff, plus is what happens when an unruly youth inherits his great there’s the usual live sport on a big screen. QOpen 10:00 aunt’s country cottage. This now legendary, graffiti-spat- - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. (€5,50-7). tered nightspot wouldn’t last a week in New Orleans, but in PTJA6EGSW Ljubljana there’s nothing of its kind to beat it. A fairly small bar features photographs of jazz greats on the walls and Premier Pub C-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 17, tel. (+386) a clientele of people who appreciate what Charles Mingus 1430 52 31. A pleasant enough riverside café-bar with its once referred to as black classical music. Most of the time very own whiskey bar, sport on the television, postcards from Top: Eat & Party A-3, Tomšičeva 2, tel. (+386) 40 17 77 the music is pre-recorded, but they do have the occasional friends who long since moved on and good outdoor seating lighting, pictures of naked women with bows and arrows on the 75, [email protected], www.klubtop.si. Located on the top live band in from time to time. Call to see what’s on. QOpen when the weather’s right. Hardly the sort of place to spend walls and excruciatingly loud music and carry on with the party. floor of a commercial building in the heart of the city centre, this 10:00 - 01:00, Mon 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 16:00 - 22:00. and entire evening in, but worth checking out all the same if This is hedonism at its very best, to the point that many of the recently-opened venue is already the odds-on favourite to win JA6LEGBD you’re planning on drinking yourself up and down both sides of true hardcore followers of the faith scrabble out of here blurry the prestigious “Most Literally Named Club in Slovenia” award, the water for the evening. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 eyed in the morning and start all over again. Unmisable for those and is looking to compete internationally later this summer. - 01:00. PJA6ULEGX who know and love how to party. QOpen 07:00 - 05:00, Sat, Local DJs spin a good variety of music Wednesday to Saturday, Sun 18:00 - 05:00. PALEGX running the gamut from live jazz and bossa nova to the latest house cuts. If you’re not in the mood for going out, at least Turbo Folk try to stop by during the day for a coffee on the terrace and Born in Serbia in the early 1990s and having close cultural Around Ljubljana some great views of the castle and old town. Q Open Sun-Tue links with the Bulgarian Chalga, Turkish Arabesk and Greek 08:30-22:00, Wed-Sat 08:30-05:00 Admission: Free before Laïka scenes, Turbo Folk mixes traditional Balkan folk music Casino Tivoli Hraška 21, Lesce, tel. (+386) 4532 23:00 and €6 after. PJAEGBKW with the westernised club music coming out of the region at 55 60, [email protected], www.casino-tivoli.si. the time. The term was first used by the Montenegrin-born Out near the gas station and a small shopping center in Ultra B-2, Nazorjeva 8, tel. (+386) 31 56 07 13, info@ Serbian singer-songwriter Rambo Amadeus, essentially as nearby Lesce, Casino Tivoli sits as a glittering bastion of ultra-club.si, www.ultra-club.si. If you find yourself painfully un- a joke, but has now become synonymous with the genre. gambling for the truly devoted. There are no croupiers or prepared at the salsa night a few doors day, you can slink down to card dealers here, no VIP for high rollers, just two levels this fancy disco for something a little more free-formed. The bar En Pub H-1, Celovška 150, tel. (+386) 1514 11 26, www. of electronic roulette and electronic slot machines. The features DJs and various theme nights from house to hip hop and enpub.si. The true sounds of the suburbs echo around the price of admission gets you two free glasses of beer or the full bar also offers an assortment of cocktails whenever you walls of this extraordinary little place practically non-stop. Leave wine, and they keep a chilled self-serve buffet off to the take a break from the throbbing crowd. QOpen 20.00 - 03.00. your gun in the car, clear security and the metal detector, and side in case you find you’ve spent your grocery money. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Admission €5. PJAG you’re free to indulge. Every night is different, from hopelessly Q Open 24hrs. Admission €5 (includes gambling ticket sentimental romantic nights of ballads to all-night DJ parties and 2 drinks). PAULEGX featuring the classic Turbo Folk girls. Refreshment features Dancing everything from bottles of ice-cold local beer to cocktails to Manila Club Savska 34, Kranj, tel. +386) 51 62 Piano Bar B-2, Nazorjeva 6, tel. (+386) 1244 23 11. ice cream, and they even do sandwiches and coffee. QOpen 05 45, [email protected], www.manila-club.si. Hardly worth a second glance during the day, this long, thin little 06:30 - 24:00, Thu 06:30 - 03:00, Fri 06:30 - 05:00, Sat 09:00 Located in the Mega Centre complex in Kranj, Manila shopping-centre café transforms itself during the evening into - 05:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.PTA6ULGBXW is a large multi-function club that serves as a bar and something charming and unique. Home to the city’s fans of swing, billiards hall during the day and a party venue at night. salsa, old Yugoslavian rock music and more besides, evenings Klub 12 G-1, Prušnikova 95/(+386) 041 67 85 77, www. It attracts a younger crowd who come on the weekends here include singles nights for the over-30s and plenty of opportu- klub-12.com. Turbo Folk’s classic Ljubljana after-party venue to listen to local and foreign DJs do their thing. There’s nities to dance in couples just like they did in the old days. For more is a good few kilometres from the city centre and doesn’t see also a VIP room that can be rented for private parties information about this scene, check out the interesting website a single client until around 04:00, but that’s all part of the fun or other events - and even includes a sauna. Q Open at www.vintage.si. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 really. After the other venues have closed their doors the deal 10:00-24:00 Sun - Thur, 10:00-05:00 Fri - Sat. - 02:00. Closed Sun. No admission. PJAEGBX Keeping warm with a pint outside Premier Pub is to pile into this dark underground cavern with its strange red

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010 58 adult entertainment Gay & Lesbian 59

Although Ljubljana’s a relatively small city, it does make space Klub Slon B-2, Slovenska 34, tel. (+386) 1470 11 Ljubljana was at the forefront of the gay and lesbian move- road, Gymnasivm is a men’s only sauna and club occupying a for sexy and sinful late night adult entertainment. Several 48, [email protected]. The most centrally-located adult ment in Eastern Europe during the mid-1980s, and since converted house in a mixed residential and industrial area. In strip clubs have recently sprung up around the city displaying entertainment club in town in the basement of popular then has maintained an active GLBT community with many addition to sauna and steam bath facilities, there is also a TV a diversity of foreign girls for stripping, private dances or just Hotel Slon, this is also the tamest . The small group of well-organised groups promoting gay rights and culture. lounge, snack bar and fitness equipment available. Buses 6, to keep you company if you buy them an (expensive) drink, girls, who you’ll mostly find fully dressed, do a a few nightly This year marks the official 25th anniversary of the move- 8, 11 and 14 will all drop you within a short walk of the place, and we mean €100 for the cheapest bottle of champagne. topless cabaret shows. While lapdances and the like are ment in Slovenia, and has already seen some important and photos and more detailed info regarding house rules Escorts in Ljubljana are limited, but your hotel may be able to not offered here, when the women are not dancing they events, including the opening of the Q Cultural Centre back can be found in English on their website. Q Mon-Thu 15:00- advise you where to find a companion for the night. Although are available for some personal interaction. QOpen 22:00 in April and an especially active Pride week earlier this 22:00, Fri & Sat 15:00-23:00, Sun closed. During summer prostitution is not illegal in Slovenia, you’d have to look very - 04:00. PYJAEGBXSW summer. However, it would be a stretch to call Ljubljana a 17:00-23:00 Mon-Sat. hard to find any girl working the streets. Of course, we don’t gay-friendly city - perhaps gay-ambivalent would be more advise that you try as these girls don’t necessarily undergo Latino Nightclub J-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC Hala apropos - as incidents of discrimination and even outright Sauna Zlati Klub H-2, Celovška 25, tel. (+386) 1431 regular medical tests. It is best to stick with the more ‘refined’ 18), tel. (+386) 59 95 21 21, [email protected], violence are not unheard of. 51 55, [email protected], www.zavod-tivoli.si. The selection we have on offer in Ljubljana. www.latino-nightclub.com. Located underneath the Gold Club is part of the sports and recreation complex at Arena Centre in BTC, Ljubljana’s newest nightclub is an the north end of Tivoli Park and the largest sauna in Ljubljana. Escape E-1, Grablovičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1232 16 74. immaculately kept affair that could easily double as a Cafés Their facilities include several different types of saunas, a On the lowest level of the ever popular Orto, this club’s sur- mainsteam club - if not for the topless girls on stage. Café Open B-4, Hrenova 19, tel. (+386) 41 391 371, swimming pool, whirlpool and fitness centre, and a wide se- roundings are consistent with the rock club atmosphere that As implied by the name, the majority of dancers are [email protected], http://www.open.si. Some places try a lection of massages is also available. While it’s not explicitly is housed above it. There is a small stage for striptease, Dominican but there are also some Thai and Eastern little too hard to attract specific groups of people, but this gay-friendly, it is popular with gay men to varying degrees but lapdances and personal attention are the real focus European girls for the sake of variety. Drinks are only at a coffee shop isn’t one of them. A gay and lesbian owned café depending upon whom you ask. Admission is between €10- here with private dances available at your table or in one slight premium to what you’d pay in the city centre and a near the river in a quiet neighbourhood south of the old 15.50 for up to three hours, and €2 for each additional hour. of the back rooms. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Admission €16. two-song private dance will set you back €30. Every Friday town, it’s smallish multi-coloured interior is bright and airy, Q Mon-Thu, Sun & Holidays 10:00-22:00, Fri & Sat 10:00- PJAG there’s a special show, usually featuring a couple large and there’s usually good music drifting out of the speakers 23:00. Tuesdays are women only. Closes at 20:00 during the snakes or girl-on-girl preformance, and package deals above. From time to time it hosts cultural events including summer, except on Fridays. Hard Core Cafe G-3, Dolgi Most 4, tel. (+386) 41 71 66 are also available for groups. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00. Free music and literature evenings. Check their website (Slovene 12, www.hardcorecafe.si. With a name like that you can’t admission. PALG only) for details of upcoming events. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Thai Sabai B-1, Dunajska 9a, tel. (+386) 31 31 00 help but smile and get in a taxi and head here. The concept is Sun 16:00 - 22:00. 75, [email protected], www.thaisabai-si.com. Gay- simple: outstanding erotic entertainment provided by prefes- Tanga J-1/2, Brnčičeva 13, [email protected], www. friendly Thai massage parlour just north of the city centre sionals in a safe environment for groups of lads of all ages and tangaclub.com. This club is quite a trek from the center of - right next to the hideous Delo building. They provide a variety backgrounds. Nobody pesters you to buy them extortionate town, along a lonely stretch of railroad track so definitely Events of traditional massages at competitive prices, and all their ‘lady drinks’, there is always something worth watching on bring a map. Once you get there, head upstairs from the Ljubljana Gay and Lesbian Film Festival (Festival masseuses are certified by the Thai Ministry of Public Health. stage, and entrance is free. Drinks are reasonably priced bar café and find a neon-lighted multi-leveled space with Gejevskega in Lezbičnega Filma) B-2, Kolodvorska They’re also currently offering a 15% discount, and all new - even the erotic ones - and the girls who perform here are a wide selection of international ladies and a menu full of 13, www.ljudmila.org/siqrd/fglf/. Originally launched in customers receive a coupon for a free massage for a friend. on the whole of a far higher phwoar category then elsewhere. drinks and services. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Free admis- 1984, it holds the distinction of being the oldest gay and Erotic massages are not available. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, QOpen 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. PJAG sion. PALG lesbian film festival in all of Europe. It’s held annually the first Sat 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. (€25-55). week of December, and films are screened from all over the world. This year’s 25th anniversary event promises to be the largest ever. Sports & Recreation Out in Slovenia Kašeljska 121, tel. (+386) 41 562 375, [email protected], www.outinslovenija. Nightlife com. Formerly an independent group founded in 2000, it K4 Roza B-2, Kersnikova 4, fax (+386) 1438 03 01. is now serves as something of the sports wing of a larger Every Sunday, and some Saturdays, this popular gay-friendly organisation (DIH or the Association for the Integration club (pronounced ‘Kah Shteer-ee’ in Slovene) hosts gay and of Homosexuality). They organise sports and recreation lesbian nights under its alternate personality, Roza Klub activities several times per week, which regularly include - which is also an independent political organisation and one bowling, badminton, volleyball and swimming. Member- of the driving forces behind the Gay and Lesbian Film Festival ship is not necessary in order to participate, although and Pride week. See our full review of K4 under clubs in the members do get discounts. Their website is in both Nightlife section. Q Open Tue & Sun from 22:00, Wed-Sat Slovene and English and includes a calendar of upcoming from 23:00. Mon closed. events. Resources Q Cultural Centre Slovenia for Gay Travelers , tel. (+386) 51 877 245, [email protected], www.slovenia- Q Cultural Centre D-2, Masarykova 24 (Metel- forgaytravelers.com. As the name suggests, these guys kova), tel. (+386) 14 30 35 35, kulturnicenterq@ specialise in arranging gay-friendly tours and accommodation gmail.com, www.kulturnicenterq.org. Officially for visitors in Slovenia. Their English language website is im- opened on 24 April 2009, which was the 25th anniver- mensely helpful and a good place to start if you’re interested sary of the the gay rights movement in Slovenia, the in planning a trip or just finding out a bit more about gay centre has roots going all the way back to 1993. It’s culture in the country. A room in Ljubljana’s only gay owned a joint project of ŠKUC - one of Slovenia’s largest arts and operated guest house (SOMI Rooms) can be booked and cultural organisations, and a leading proponent of directly from the website, and they have also put together a gay rights - and two long-running gay and lesbian clubs, comprehensive gay guide to all of Slovenia - although outside Tiffany and Monokel, which are located on the same of the capital the pickings are rather slim. premises. The centre’s main focus is the promotion of gay and lesbian culture, and it hosts regular events such as literature readings, concerts, theatre performances, Saunas & Massage exhibitions, lectures, debates and workshops. Both Gymnasivm Sauna H-1, Pohorskega Bataljona 34, clubs also host parties every Friday (and sometimes on tel. (+386) 1534 24 85, [email protected], www. Saturday) night from around 20:00 till late. klub-libero.si. Located in north Ljubljana not far from the ring

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010 60 what to see whwhata tot to see see 61

Ljubljana Castle is arguably the main attraction for visitors to the city, but all that lies beneath it from the Old Town to Cemeteries Top 5 sights (other than the castle) Ljubljana’s multitude of museums and galleries are more Ž a l e C e m e t e r y than worthy of further investigation. The extraordinary (Pokopališče Žale) J- Franciscan Church Tivoli Park A-1/2, combination of treats, from the architecture of Jože Plečnik’s 1, Med Hmeljniki 2, tel. ( Fr a n č i š k a n s k i . Tivoli is where the to the historic atmosphere of the Old Town to the occasional (+386) 1420 17 00, info@ S a m o s t a n ) B - 3 , people of Ljubljana who blast-to-the-past burst of retro-Yugoslav city planning all zale.si, www.zale.si. Built Prešernov Trg 4, tel. don’t leave the city work together in harmony to create the most unique of cities. on the site of a much ear- (+386) 1242 93 00. spend the weekend. lier cemetery attached to Built in an instantly recog- Laid out in 1813 as the neighbouring (and still nisable, mildly swirly Ba- a place for the gen- Bridges standing) Holy Cross Church, roque fashion, Ljubljana’s eral health and rec- Čevljarski Most (Cobblers’ Bridge) B-3, . Another what’s arguably Plečnik’s mid-16th-century Fran- reation of the city’s Plečnik creation, this elegant 1930s bridge is named after B. Jakše & S. Jeršič Ljubljana masterpiece was ciscan Church dominates population, at some the cobblers’ workshops located on its predecessor. Pillars completed in 1940. The Prešernov Trg like a big five square kilometres, of various sizes stand on the bridge, some supporting lamps, grand arched entrance complete with stark white colonnades pink birthday cake. Part Ljubljana’s gargantuan others simply holding stone balls in the air. supposedly represents the gateway between the lands of the of a larger complex with bucolic lung - literally living and the dead. Between them and the cemetery itself an additional Franciscan Mansion-LTB-archive two streets west of Tromostovje (Triple Bridge) B-3, . Perhaps Ljubljana’s are a series of peculiar buildings, chapels and monuments monastery, if you’re lucky the city centre - is so most characteristic structure(s), the triple bridge is a curi- including the Žale funeral home. Architectural styles abound, enough to find the doors packed with good things to see and do that it’s almost worth ous merger of a 19th century road bridge (itself replacing a reflecting Plečnik’s vision of equality among religions. The unlocked expect a few visiting the Slovenian capital just to come here. Set amidst medieval wooden bridge), with two 1930s pedestrian bridges cemetery itself, once you get there, is a pleasure to behold D.Silpa treats inside including rolling hills, Tivoli Park is a pleasant mixture of lawns (picnics designed by Plečnik, who took the opportunity to do up the and is worthy of a good hour’s stroll. The final resting place Robba’s 18th-century altar, some charming frescoes dating encouraged: something of a shock in this part of the world), whole ensemble with lamps and stone balustrades. of many Slovenian greats including Plečnik himself, also find from 100 years or so later and a chapel notable for contain- pastures, wooded areas and fun adventure playgrounds for a small area given over to the Jewish population of the city. ing a cross designed by none other than Jože Plečnik. For the kids (who will love the mini-golf best of all). The best QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. those who don’t appreciate the finer points of ecclesiastic way to enjoy the park is by bike, and bicycles are available Buildings architecture, the front steps do at least provide a nice place for rent from various points throughout the park during the Mestna Hiša (Town Hall) B-3, Mestni Trg 1. The 15th to sit and watch the world go by on a gloriously sunny day. summer. You will need to leave ID as a guarantee you will century Town Hall was dramatically altered over the ages, and Churches QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. bring the bike back. given a Baroque facelift in the early 18th century. Note the As you may have already noticed, the old town boasts a original medieval coat of arms on the building. Inside, you can number of famous churches dating far back to the Ba- Mestni Tr g (Town As well as its reputation as the top nature spot in the area, view the Grand Council Chamber, wedding hall and banquet roque period under the influence of Venetian architecture. Square) B-3, The centre Tivoli Park also houses a number of cultural sights includ- hall. Tours are available by appointment at the tourist office. Aside from during mass, most of the main churches are of medieval Ljubljana, the ing the International Centre of Graphic Arts in the glorious Q Guided tours €2. open to the public from 15:00-18:00. town’s main square was 17th century Tivolski Grad (Tivoli Mansion), the Museum damaged in the 1511 earth- of Modern History and, in the park’s far southwestern Nebotičnik (Skyscraper) B-2, Štefanova 1. Believe it Cathedral (Sv. Nikolaja) C-3, Dolničarjeva 1, tel. quake and subsequently reaches, in an area designated as a nature reserve, the or not, this lovely little skyscraper was, at 70 metres, one (+386) 1231 06 84. With its classic twin towers and trade- rebuilt in Baroque style. The city’s half-decent zoo. Also look out for the monument to of the highest buildings in Europe when it was built in 1933. mark single, weather-worn green dome, the city’s cathedral, square houses the Town Primoz Trubar at the entrance to the park. Truboz was an The rooftop café sadly closed long ago. more properly known as St Nicholas’ Church, encapsulates Hall, City Art Museum, the early force in and the creation of a Slovene everything that is Ljubljana. Small and interesting, but not too decorated 16th century Li- national identity. exciting at first glance, a longer look at its history and finer chtenberg house and the Tourist information details reveals its hidden charm and beauty. Built on the site Souvan house with its Em- Z m a j s k i M o s t of a much earlier church, the cathedral’s main structure and pire façade. (Dragon Bridge) Ljubljana Tourist Information Centre (Turistični appearance dates from the first half of the 18th century. Kopitarjeva Ulica. informacijski center) C-3, Adamič-Lundrovo Inside the Baroque masterpiece’s pink shell is a cavalcade Prešernov Trg B- Since i t opened in Nabrežje 2, tel. (+386) 1306 12 15, fax (+386) 1306 of classic creams and golds, littered with extraordinarily 3, Formally a meeting 1901, Zmajski Most 12 04, [email protected], www.visitljubljana.si. A detailed frescoes and possessing that calming feeling that place for several roads has been locked in small but extremely well equipped resource with plenty only a great church can bring. Of particular interest are the in front of one of the a fierce competition of maps, brochures galore in English, information about ornate choir stalls and Robba’s maginficent angels on the old entrance gates to with the castle and what’s on in the city and a range of information on what main altar. Don’t forget to check out the astonishing pair of the city, and a public the conspicuously pink to see and do in the region. They also organise tours, can bronze doors on the western and southern sides. Dating square since Ljublja- Franciscan Church for help with accommodation, and should be one of your first from 1996 and commissioned to celebrate John Paul II’s na’s original defensive the title of Most Pho- ports of call when you arrive. Their website is one of the visit to the Cathedral, the former celebrates 1250 years of walls were torn down tographed Sight in best we’ve seen in Central Europe and is well worth further Slovenian Christianity, and the latter, depicting six cardinals in the middle of the Ljubljana. At any given investigation. Friendly, informative staff too. Q Open Oc- in a row with the figure of Christ lying at the front, the history 19th century, this is moment during day- tober-May 08:00 - 19:00, June-September 08:00-21:00. of the diocese of the city. one of the city’s most light hours (and only Also at the bus and train station (tel. 433 94 75; open important landmarks. slightly less frequently 08:00 - 22:00, Oct-May 10:00 - 19:00, Saturday 08:00- Evangelical Church (Evangeličanska Cerkev) Named after Slovenia’s at night) there is sure 15:00, Sunday Closed). 22 December 2009 - 2 January B-2, Gosposvetska 9, tel. (+386) 1252 72 80, evang. national poet France to be at least a person 2010 Monday to Saturday 8:00-21:00 [email protected], www.evang-cerkev.si. Completed Prešeren (German, or two clicking away at one of the four large dragons guarding in 1852, this fairly unremarkable church represents much Fran z Pres ch eren, either side of the bridge or the smaller griffins that adorn Slovenian Tourist Information Center (STIC) C- that is classic German (or, to be exact, Austrian) austerity. 1800-1849), it’s both a the bottom of its eight lamp posts. Of course we’re no 3, Krekov trg 10, tel. (+386) 1306 45 75, fax (+386) The simple, single-towered magnolia façade hides a basic popular meeting place exception, as we still remember the fog shrouded photo we 1306 45 80, [email protected], www.visitljubljana. interior, most of it made from wood, with a few interesting (notably under the large statue of the man after whom the snapped on our first trip to the city way back in the forgotten si. Slovenia’s national tourism office. Maps, brochures and flourishes. The main organ dates from 1878, and the painting square is named) and a site for concerts and events during days of analogue film. More recently some amateur artiste general information about travel throughout the country. on the main altar is the work of a virtually unknown Austrian the summer. The charming little public space is ringed by a apparently felt that the mythical beasts were lacking a QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Open October-May 08:00 - 19:00, by the name of Künnel. number of interesting sights including the magnificent Art certain je ne sais quoi and took it upon themself to add a Saturday 08:00-15:00, Sunday closed June-September Nouveau façade of the Urbanc House, an extraordinary smattering of red paint to their mouths and claws. The jury 08:00 - 21:00, 5 December 2009 - 2 January 2010 Monday piece of early 20th-century flamboyance and site of the is still out on whether or not this is an improvement but it to Saturday 8:00-19:00, Sundays closed slovenia.inyourpocket.com now sadly closed Centromerkur department store. does amuse us whenever we walk past.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010 62 what to see what to see 63

Holy Trinity Church Ljubljana Night & Day Tel. (+386) 51 893 805, (Cerkev svete trojice) [email protected]. Let pretty English speaking Museums & Galleries Ljubljana Castle B-3, Slovenska 21, tel. guides take you and your mates on an insider’s tour of Ljublja- Brewery Museum (Pivovarski Muzej) B-1, (+386) 1252 48 64. Con- na’s best bars and clubs. Catering to groups of 5-20 people, Pivovarniška 2, tel. (+386) 1471 73 40, pivovarski. Ljubljana Castle (Ljubljan- structed to a design by pick any Friday or Saturday night for this experience, or go [email protected], www.pivo-union.si. The Union ski Grad) C-3, Grajska Planota Carlo Marinuzzi between for daylight activities such as the adrenaline park, paintball, Brewery has been providing quality beer to the masses for 1, tel. (+386) 12 32 99 94, 1718 and 1726 from a karting and excursions. almost 150 years. The brewery’s museum, inside the same [email protected], www. commission by local mer- building that they make the stuff in the attic of the company’s ljubljanafestival.si. Perched chant Jakob Schell von Tourist Train (Turistični Vlakec) B-3, Stritarjeva. former malt house, provides an intriguing insight into the his- on top of Castle Hill (Grajska Schellenburg, and with all Spare yourself the slog up the hill by taking the tourist train tory and development of beer-making in Slovenia with the aid Planota) and dominating the city the usual additions over ride up to the castle. Q Departs regularly between 10:00 of all manner of exhibits from life-size recreations to some of skyline to the south, Ljubljana’s the centuries, this imposing - 18:00. Return ticket €2-3. the beautiful old machinery that helped launch a thousand magnificent castle stands on the Baroque marvel dominates drunken nights. Visits need to be booked in advance, and site of several former defensive buildings in a hilly area of D.Silpa the area it’s located in not include a tour of the current brewery, the screening of a land stretching away to the south of the old town. The least for its unusual, gabled rooftop façade. Part church and Monuments short film, and of course the chance to sample some of the current ensemble of buildings originates from necessary part monastery, the former’s interior is somewhat restrained, France Prešeren B-3. Slovenia’s national poet France products. Q Open 08:00-13:00 on every first Tuesday of the 16th-century reconstruction work following the earthquake its main outstanding feature being a altar, Prešeren (1800-1849) stands in the square named in his month. Admission free. of 1511, with several later additions. Not unlike Kraków’s carved from African marble around 1740. The main steps date honour at the foot of the Triple Bridge. As well as offering an Wawel Castle in Poland, Ljubljana Castle has served as from the 1930s and are the work of our old friend Plečnik. interesting visual treat, the monument also serves as a fo- City Museum (Mestni Muzej Ljubljana) B-3, Gos- both a royal residence and a military barracks over the cal point for people meeting in the city. Erected in 1905, the poska 15, tel. (+386) 1241 25 00, [email protected], www. centuries. The current main points of interest for the visi- Orthodox Church (Pravoslavna Cerkev) A-2, large monolith is the work of the architect Maks Fabiani and mm-lj.si. A magnificent museum run by a team of historians tor are both located inside the Outlook Tower (Razgledni Prešernova, tel. (+386) 1252 40 02. Built alongside the sculptor Ivan Zajc and features the Muse of poetry holding a who know how to show people a good time, showcasing Stolp), built in the 19th century and raised a further 1.2m southwestern perimeter of Tivoli Park in 1936 to serve the small laurel of bay leaves over his head as well as extracts Ljubljana in all its good and bad colours throughout history. by the communists in 1982. The tower’s Virtual Museum city’s Serbian community, this wholly unremarkable church from his writing around the base. Featuring both permanent and temporary exhibitions, this screens a 20-minute film in 3D, viewed with the aid of complete with all the usual ostentatious details, is worth is the best place in town for a crash-course in city history. special glasses and a headset for an English translation, visiting during services, daily at 10:00. Puppet Theatre Clock C-3, Krekov Trg 2. Every hour Find scale models of unfulfilled Plečnik creations, elaborate showing an interesting and informative history of the between 08:00 and 20:00, puppets pop out of the clock at costumes, old photographs and much more besides. QOpen castle. On the same floor find a small door that takes you St Peter (Cerkev Sv. Petra) D-2/3, Trubarjeva 80, tel. the top of the Ljubljana Puppet Theater building, accompanied 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4/2,50. English-lan- to the top of the tower up some 100 red cast-iron steps, (+386) 1231 79 65. The heritage of the Roman Catholic by music. First, Kobilica the horse shows up, followed by guage guided tours Sun at 13:00. each individually decorated with an image of the tower St Peter’s Church goes back long before this building was Krpan, carrying a knife; when he raises it, the horse hurries and the city’s dragon. A door at the top leads to a small completed in 1733, with a number of churches standing on back inside with Krpan in persuit - a scene taken from the Contemporary His- viewing platform (not for the faint hearted) with wonderful this spot for some 500 years before Giovanni Fusconi’s superb puppet show that opened then new theatre in 1984. Krpan tory Museum (Muzej views of the city. Underneath the tower and located down Baroque designs were realised. Inspired by the great churches has been chasing Kobilica around the clock and delighting Novejše Zgodovine) a small flight of stairs tucked away through a doorway in of Venice, much has been changed over the centuries, including children since 1992. A-1, Celovška 23, tel. the corner of the courtyard is the diminutive St George’s Neoclassical additions following the 1895 earthquake and the (+386) 13 00 96 10, Chapel (Kapela sv Jurija). Originally Gothic and remodelled construction of a new façade, complete with interesting fish Robbov Vodnjak () B-3, Mestni Trg. www.muzej-nz.si. I f in the Baroque style, the chapel is interesting for its 15th- details over the doors between 1938 and 1940 by the local One of the most famous landmarks in the city, this lovely you needed a reason century wall paintings and not a lot more. The castle also architect Ivan Vurnik. Many changes have been made inside as 1751 fountain is named after its creator, the Italian Baroque to visit Tivoli Park, it’s has a small art gallery featuring temporary exhibitions, well, including much work by Vurnik’s wife, Helena. Points of par- sculptor Francesco Robba (1698-1757), and is also known here. This fascinating a café, souvenir shop and a branch of the city’s Puppet ticular interest include Franc Jelovšek’s magnificent frescoes as The Fountain of Three Carniolan Rivers. It was the last museum inside a wonder- Museum. It’s also a popular place for local weddings, and and several altar paintings by Valentin Metzinger. of Robba’s Ljubljana creations. The eight years it took him Matthew Armstrong ful 18th-century mansion during the summer puts on concerts and, in July, hosts a to complete it essentially bankrupted the man, and he presents the history of popular outdoor cinema. To reach it, several small paths Synagogue (Sinagoga) A-3, Tržaška 2. Inside the head- finally left the city for Zagreb. Based loosely on the grand Slovenia from the period around the start of WWI until inde- lead up from the old town, or take the funicular next to the quarters of the Jewish Community of Slovenia, the small syna- fountains of , the artist’s masterpiece features three pendence in 1991. Using a combination of well-presented Puppet Theatre. Q Winter Hours: gogue was the last synagogue to open in a European capital city river gods, supposedly representing the , Ljubljanica exhibits including old photographs, clothing and household Castle & Café and dates from 2003. The city has no rabbi; the chief Rabbi for and Sava rivers. items the museum charts the often wobbly path of the nation 10:00-21:00 daily Slovenia is Mr Ariel Haddad, who is based in Trieste, Italy. through and between the two world wars and the difficult Viewing Tower & Virtual Museum and truly fascinating post-war communist years. Q Open 10:00-18:00 daily Tues - Sun 10:00-18:00, Thur 10:00-20:00. Closed Mon. Funicular Railway Tours Admission €7/3.50. 10:00-21:00 daily Almost every hotel in the city offers guided tours of one Viewing Tower & Virtual Museum sort or another. Some are good, others just a way of mak- International Cen- €3.50 for adults ing money. You should be able to spot the scams without tre of Graphic Arts €2.00 for secondary students, university students, too much difficulty. The Tourist Information Centre also of- (Mednarodni Grafični seniors and groups (over 15 people) fers several walking tours of the city, and can even, if you Likovni Center) A- Castle tours give them plenty of warning, organise an original one just 2, Pod Turnom 3, tel. €5.00 for adults for you. The Jewish Community of Slovenia (see Jewish (+386) 1241 38 00, €3.50 for secondary students, university students and Ljubljana) is the best place to contact for all Jewish-re- www.mglc-lj.si. Located seniors. lated tours of the city and Slovenia in general. inside the gorgeous 17th- century Tivoli Mansion, Digital Tour Guide C-3, tel. (+386) 1306 12 15, this must-see attraction Ljubljana Card tr.im/digital_tours Let your headseat tour guides Ben and for anyone with even a Nena Mandy take you on a two-hour trip past Ljubljana’s highlights. passing interesting in the The Ljubljana Card offers reductions Or switch to their German friends Anna and Thomas, or the visual arts contains a staggering 4 000 prints and over 4000 of up to 35% on admission fees, taxi Italian duo Paulo and Oriana. With the mp4 digital tour guide artist’s books and other printed ephemera, mostly from the rides, shop prices, car rental and other player and map in hand, you’ll have explanations about the second half of the 20th century onwards and including the expenses. The card is valid for 72 hours city’s history and sights, and can see pictures too. Rent the work of many of the great masters of European graphic arts. and costs €12.52. Find it for sale at all player at TIC (Adamič-Lundrovo 2) and STIC (Krekov trg 10). QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Open Monday to Friday tourist information centres and at various hotels, businesses Q Player rental (5 hours) and map €10 (ID and €10 deposit 09:00-14:00, closed Sat-Sun & holidays. Admission €3.40/1.70. and shops, or order it at www.ljubljanacard.com. required). One of the best ways to see the sights U. Hocevar During the Biennial €6/3.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010 64 what to see what to see 65

everything from his kitchen, bedroom, bathroom and countless examples of original drawings and models. The museum can Around Ljubljana only be visited as part of a guided tour. Q Mon & Fri 10:00- 15:00, Tues, Wed & Thu 10:00-18:00, Sat 09:00-15:00, Sun Otočec Castle Otočec 8222, tel. (+386) 73 84 and holidays closed.There are only guided visits on the hour. 86 00, fax (+386) 73 84 87 05, www.terme-krka. Up to 7 visitors at a time allowed. Last tour is one hour before si. Photogenically located on an island in the middle of closing time. Admission €4/2. the river Krka , Otočec Castle dates back to at least 1252, when it first found its way into the anals of history Railway Museum (Železniški Muzej) B-1, Par- as a property of the Counts of Višnja Gora. Over the mova 35, tel. (+386) 1291 26 41. Housed primarily in a next 700 years ownership passed through a mélange wonderful semicircular brick locomotive shed, the current of distinguished hands, including kings, noble families incarnation of this excellent museum dates from 2004 and even the Catholic Church. The castle has seen many and offers an exceptional glimpse behind the history of architectural changes over the years, with minor altera- the technology, culture and people of the nation’s railway tions going on well into the 19th century. However, it can heritage. In the shed find a chorusline of vast old steam generally be said to have a Baroque style. After being locomotives, the oldest dating from 1861, whilst another largely destroyed by the Partisans during the Second building plays host to several rooms of signal equipment, World War, it has since been rebuilt and now serves as railway eccentricities, uniforms, a recreation of old station a five-star luxury hotel owned and operated by the good master’s office and, up a wiggly spiral staircase, a small art people at Terme Krka. gallery featuring the railway-related paintings of one of the museum’s former directors. Outside find even more exhibits Postojna Cave (Postojnska Jama) Jamska from rusting trains to a small scale model of a viaduct. This 30, tel. (+386) 1700 01 00, fax (+386) 1700 01 highly recommended museum will keep boys of all ages oc- 30, [email protected], www.turizem-kras. cupied for a pleasant hour or more. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. si. The largest cave in Europe, words on a page can Closed Mon. Admission €3/2. hardly do justice to the majesty of Postojna. So far, more than 20 kilometres of galleries have been found, Slovene Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski of which barely a fraction are open to the public. All Muzej) D-2, Metelkova 2, tel. (+386) 1300 87 00, the same, a visit here still takes up much of a morn- [email protected], www.etno-muzej.si. The ing or an afternoon, as you make your way through impressive Ethnographic Museum’s aims are to the link the most spectacular parts of the cave, at first by past and present, different cultures as well as nature a dinky little narrow-gauge train, and then on foot. and civilisation in creative and imaginative ways through Formed over millions of years by the Pivka river, the the use of both exhibitions and workshops. Whatever cave was discovered in the 17th century, though never the exhibitions on display, whether about Slovenian folk properly explored until the early 1800s. They opened music, traditional horsehair sieves or any number of other as a tourist attraction in 1819, with Franz I, Emperor of National Gallery (Nar- Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni Muzej) topics, the clever use of materials, interactive displays Austria, among the first to visit. Bizarrely, so popular odna Galerija) B-2, A-3, Prešernova 20, tel. (+386) 1241 09 40, uprava@ and an excellent choice of English descriptions makes did the caves become that electric lights were fitted Prešernova 24, tel. (+386) pms-lj.si, www2.pms-lj.si. Attached to Ljubljana’s this place an essential place to visit. Find the entrance in in 1884: some years before such technology was 1241 54 18, www.ng-slo. National Museum, the Natural History Museum isn’t the the large square at the back of the building and be sure first deployed in Ljubljana itself. Highlights of the cave si. Inside Czech architect best in the world by a long way but it does offer an assort- to take a look at the huge black and white photographs include the enormous stalactites and stalagmites, František Edmund Škabrout’s ment of oddities to beat the rainy blues away or to simply incorporated into the pillar designs in the main entrance and the quite sensational concert hall, which can (and fabulous late 19th-century keep the children amused for a while. Among the many hall. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission does) hold 10,000 people. The acoustics down here neo-Renaissance master- peculiar displays of shells, rocks and an almost complete €4.50/2.50 (adults/students). are said to be sensational. Note that the temperature piece with an additional mod- set of mammoth bones, the human fish is perhaps the of the cave is a chilly 10 degrees Centigrade, so bring LTB-archive ern wing thrown on for good museum’s strangest display. Known so for its pinky hu- a jumper. The caves are also home to olms (or white measure, this above-average gallery features the very best in man flesh appearance, the little proteus anguinus is a Parks & Gardens salamanders), a blind amphibian endemic to the sub- Slovenian art from the 13th century up to the first half of the blind amphibian found exclusively in a relatively small area Botanical Gardens (Botanični Vrt) H-3, Ižanska 15, terranean waters of caves of this part of Europe. The 20th century, including paintings by such notable artists as including parts of Slovenia, Italy, Croatia and Herzegovina. tel. (+386) 1427 12 80, [email protected], www. olms can sometimes - though not always - be seen Ivan Grohar (1867-1911), Richard Jakopič (1869-1943) and The gift shop features a handful of fun things for the kids botanicni-vrt.si. Nearly 200 years old, this garden is part of the in some of the pools of water as you make your way Ivana Kobilca (1861-1926). The other permanent exhibition including small build-your-own dinosaur kits. QOpen 10:00 biology department of Ljubljana University and has 2 hectares of around the cave. Though blind they are sensitive to in the building focuses on European painting, and includes - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €3/2.50, free first protected landscape. Guided tours of groups over 15 people are flash photography and if you do spot one you should some really fine examples of the Renaissance-period Italian Sunday of the month. possible for a small fee and when booked 10 days in advance. Q refrain from taking any photos. You will be well and painting through to the more modernist work of the early 20th Open 07:00-19:00, Jul-Aug 07:00-20:00. Admission free. truly told off if you do. To get to Postojna, take any century. The gallery also contains a small gift shop, which has Plečnik House (Arhitek- train or bus from Ljubljana heading for the coast, and several good books and postcards. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. turni Muzej, Plečnikova (Živalski Vrt) G/H-2, Večna Pot 70, tel. jump off at Postojna. Closed Mon. Admission €7/3.50. zbirka) B-4, Karunova 4, tel. (+386) 1244 21 88, www.zoo.si. A large complex with a (+386) 1280 16 00, pz@aml. good variety of native and foreign animals. An excellent day Velika Planina Tel. (+386) 1832 72 58/(+386) National Museum (Narodni Muzej) A-2/3, Prešernova si, www.aml.si. The Slovenian out for the kids, and educative for parents too. Only a 20 51 34 14 06, [email protected], www.velika- 20, tel. (+386) 1241 44 00, [email protected], www.nar- visionary architect Jože Plečnik minute walk from the city centre or a short ride on bus 23. planina.si/Home. Rising 1666 metres into the Julian muz-lj.si. Found lurking inside another of the city’s fine, late lived in this house from 1921 until Guided night tours are available on Thursdays and Saturdays Alps, the Velika Planina nature park is only a short drive 19th-century neo-Renaissance buildings complete with fine his death in 1957, making this bril- from 21:00-23:00. Closes one hour earlier in September. QO- north of Ljubljana and makes a great day trip for outdoor painted ceilings and elaborate sculptures on the stairs, this liant monument to the great man pen 09:00 - 19:00. Admission: €6/4.50/3.55/1 for adults/ enthusiasts. While the rolling hills are criss-crossed is the oldest museum in country, founded way back in 1841. and his work poignant for both its students/pre-schoolers/pets, free for children under 2. with hundreds of kilometres of scenic hiking trails and Permanent displays include an intriguing collection dedicated immediate connection with him as mountain cycling paths, the most unique attraction has to to the Slovenians and the Slovenian language alongside the well as being the building in which be a traditional dairy herdsmen’s settlement that is fully- usual bits and pieces of interest dug out of the ground, plus a he did most of his work, much of it Squares functioning and open to visitors from June to September. large ensemble of almost 200 examples of carved stonework LTB-archive on the actual building itself. Organ- Trg Republike (Republic Square) A/B-3. The political A cable car will bear the burden of transporting you up the dating from Roman times excavated in the city and surrounding ised into both a living recreation centre of modern Slovenia, this square houses the brutalist mountain, and there’s even a handful of traditional dining regions. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission of how and where Plečnik lived and a fascinating insight into 1960 parliament building, two equally delicate office towers and accommodation options once your there. €3/2.50, free first Sunday of the month. his often revolutionary ideas, exhibits include recreations of and the Cankarjev dom centre.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010 66 Shopping Shopping 67

One of the great things about Ljubljana is the fact that you and See by Chloe. In Midas you can fully immerse yourself can shop the old-fashioned way: strolling the city centre’s Books in your favorite brand from underwear, clothes, shoes, bags, streets, ducking in and out of any number of high street Antikvariat B-3/4, Gallusovo Nabrežje 21, tel. (+386) accessories, sunglasses and perfumes. QOpen 09:00 stores, local brands and cute little boutiques. A number 1425 40 07. A small selection of second-hand books includ- - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. of stores have locations on the streets that abut the river, ing a few novels in English. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun Nama B-2, Tomšičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1425 83 00, info@ making this - if we’re honest - one of our favourite shop- 10:00 - 14:00. nama.si, www.nama.si. Just southwest of the Slon hotel, ping cities in Europe. Mladinska Knjiga A-3, Slovenska 29, tel. (+386) this well established department store provides several 1241 36 80, [email protected], www.mla- floors of clothing for men and women, plus household items If you want a mall experience however, head out to BTC dinska.com. The flagship store of Slovenia’s largest and somewhere to eat in the basement. QOpen 08:30 City, a couple of kilometers from the city centre on the book retailer, it has by far the largest selection of English - 20:00. Closed Sun. road to Maribor. Besides an enormous mall (City Park) language books in the country including a fairly impressive there are also a number of warehouse-like outlets stores, travel section. There’s usually at least one table of heavily as well as a water park and entertainment city. discounted tomes if you’d like to pick up something cheap Fashion to read and aren’t too picky. They also operate smaller 69 Slam B-3, Gallusovo nabrezje 7, tel. (+386) 31 531 shops on seemingly every other street in Ljubljana, which 900, www.69slam.si/. The Ljubljana outlet of this trendy Art & Antiques mostly stock stationery supplies. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, international underwear and swimwear brand is somewhat For antique and art lovers, you will be glad to know that Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. hidden away on a quieter stretch of the riverside, which is Ljubljana hosts its very own Antique Flea market, every Vale Novak B-3, Wolfova 8, tel. (+386) 1422 34 10, a bit ironic given that the designs inside are about as loud Sunday by the Ljubljanica River at the Cankerjevo nabrezje www.vale-novak.si. This is an excellent bookshop with as you’re likely to find anywhere. If it’s any indicator of the embankment from 8am-2pm. Various objects include friendly, helpful staff and a good selection of titles in English. store’s popularity amongst the locals, its Facebook page ornaments, furniture, books and paintings many of which The English language section has everything from classics has almost 2,000 fans. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 are still fit for use. Art workshops and studios are also to crime, but many other titles are scattered throughout - 14:00. Closed Sun. dotted about town displaying local works from Lubljana’s the store in the areas dedicated to film and music, travel Boutique Lacoste B-2, Dalmatinova 10, tel. (+386) vibrant creative life. and art, sport and children’s books. There are also CDs 1431 50 68, [email protected], www.florida-well- and DVDs, postcards and books on Slovenia and a wide ness.si. There may not be any crocodiles in the Ljubljanica, Idrijska čipka B-3, Mestni Trg 17, tel. (+386) 1425 selection of magazines. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 but there are plenty in this Lacoste boutique. Find a mas- 00 51, [email protected], www.idrija-lace.com. - 17:00. Closed Sun. sive range of gear from the French casual specialists, from The region of Idrija is particularly noted for its fine lace work, the classic polo shirt to footwear. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. dating back to the 1600s, and Idrijska čipka showcases both Closed Sun. traditional designs and more contemporary pieces. At the Cosmetics Dolce & Gabbana Outlet A-2, Cankarjeva 10. With shop you can get an introduction to all things lace, including L’Occitane B-3/H-1, Mestni Trg 7 / Ljubljanske Brigade its odd basement location, limited working hours and a demonstration from the shop assistant on the piece she is 33 / Citypark, tel. (+386) 1426 03 72, www.loccitane. a sign reading “For members only” out front, we were currently working on - she claimed that she is just a beginner, si. Named for an ancient province that once covered a wide surprised not to be asked for a password before being but it looked pretty perfect to us. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00, swath of Mediterranean Europe, this well-known international let in. However, once inside we were well taken care of. 15:00-19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. retailer of body, face and home products currently has ten Definitely a unique shopping experience. QOpen 16:00 stores in Slovenia, three of which are located in Ljubljana. The - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. environmentally-conscious company aims to preserve the Emporium E-2, Letališka 3 (BTC), tel. (+386) 15 84 48 natural traditions of the Mediterranean region - especially 00, [email protected], www.emporium.si. This huge fash- those of Provence, France where it was founded some thirty ion house in the southwest corner of BTC has aisle after aisle years ago - and each product in its extensive range comes of name-brand designer clothes for men, women and children with a unique true story. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 at discount prices. With well over 100 different luxury brands - 14:00. Closed Sun. to peruse they’ve been thoughtful enough to also include a Melvita B-3, Stari Trg 18, www.melvita.com. Melvita is café to rest weary legs and reload on caffeine. QOpen 10:00 one of France’s leading organic cosmetics brands, which has - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. been creating natural, high-quality products for more than a Flat C-2, Miklošičeva 18, tel. (+386) 1 2322055/(+386) quarter century. Their product range includes a wide selection 1 2322056, [email protected], www.flat.si. Sprouting creativity of natural ingredients sourced from around the world, which and a fresh new concept through the creation of innovative are produced using mostly organic farming methods. In ad- furniture and accessories for home or office. Browse through the dition to their shop in Ljubljana’s old town they also have a selection of incredibly large wall clocks, hand crafted and painted location at the Europark shopping centre in Maribor. QOpen bed side tables and hanging chairs made of bamboo. A unique, 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. modern and humorous collection for a post-modern home. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Furla B-3, Mestni Trg 17, tel. (+386) 59 054 980, Department Stores www.furla.com. Now this is a nice place. Handbags and Maxi Market B-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+386) 14 76 68 coffee, or coffee and handbags. Equal amount of space 74, www.maxi.si. The quintessential Yugoslavian shopping is given other to both of these pursuits. Inside the café centre experience, dating from 1971 and brought slightly up area has a great mini-library of books on fashion, so if you to date but still retaining most of its original exterior charm. can’t afford one of the handbags you can at least read Maxi Market is perhaps the best one-stop-shop experience about people who can. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 in the city centre. As well as a fairly good selection of clothes - 14:00. Closed Sun. shops, it also has a number of other shopping surprises as Kids Couture A-3, Igriška 6, tel. (+386) 14 25 80 well as a handful of interesting bars and cafés. QOpen 09:00 33/(+386) 41 83 98 91, [email protected], - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. www.kidscouture-eu.com. Being a baby is no excuse Midas B-2, Ajdovščina 3, tel. (+386) 13 00 46 00, for not keeping up with the latest fashion trends. Located [email protected], www.midas.si. When Midas opened in next to the Drama theatre in the city centre, Ljubljana’s October 2007 Ljubljana let out a sigh of relief. Finally the foremost retailer of designer kids’ wear carries the newest top international brands were available in Slovenia. Now you collections from names such as D&G, Armani and Ralph can find the latest collections from houses such as Giorgio Lauren. Their website is Slovene-only, but all items have Armani, Blumarine and Givenchy to the more fashion collec- photos so it’s easy enough to navigate even if you haven’t tions of Marc by Marc Jacobs, McQ by Alexander McQueen mastered the language yet.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010 68 Shopping Shopping 69

Kipling Store B-3, Wolfova 1, tel. (+386) 1251 10 10. flash trainers to leather boots to handmade Italian loafers, Ljubljanček C-2, Miklošičeva 1, (Grand Hotel Union), Fine, mainly leather, goods (luggage, handbags, purses) for with stockings in stock as well. And because a new pair of tel. (+386) 59 0 25 727, [email protected]. Attached ladies who lunch. Besides the headline leather there are shoes needs a new accessory to go with them, Peko stocks to Grand Union Hotel, in Ljubljancek you can take a look also big print bags, which, as its summer in Slovenia, feature a range of handbags as well. So if you break a heel on the through souvenirs of plates, photos, art and gadgets in rela- something of a nautical theme. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat cobblestones or just feel the need for some retail therapy pop tion to the town of Ljubljana. It is worth stopping by if you’re 09:00 - 13:00. into Peko to invigorate your soles and your soul. looking to buy souvenirs and gifts for your family back home. Lili in Roza B-3, Stari trg 30, tel. (+386) 1425 30 Pletilni Studio Draž C-4, Gornji Trg 9, tel. (+386) 1426 QOpen 08:00 - 14:00, 15:00-19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, 50. Just one street away from the river in the old town, Lili 60 41, www.drazdraz.com. Slovenia counts Italy as a close 14:00-18:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. in Roza is the only clothing store in the city to specialize in neighbor and while Slovenians are becomingly increasingly Made in Slovenia A-3, Slovenska 23, tel. (+386) Oilily products. The staff is pleasant and helpful, even if they more fashion conscious, Ljubljana has not emerged as a fash- 51 228 249, [email protected], www.madein- cram the shelves with a little too much merchandise. Dealing ion capital yet. However, great fashion designers lihe those at slovenia.net/. These guys have been selling exclusively exclusively in women’s and children’s clothing, this little shop Pletilni Studio Draž aim to change that. This small boutique Slovenian produced goods on the web for over three years is a great place to pick up something for the kids, then take features many of their inspired creations and you can often now, but have only recently decided to get into the bricks and them for an ice cream right next door. find the designers in the shop. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00;15:00- mortar trade. Beyond the usual gifts and souvenirs they also Mandarina Duck B-3, Wolfova ulica 1, tel. (+386) 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. carry original art work, hand-made jewellery, contemporary 1251 10 10. Exquisite handbags and leather goods for the music and of course hemp rolling papers. Their small shop glitterati. Look out for the trademark wooden ducks in the in the arcade opposite Kongresni Trg was still undergoing window: alas they are not for sale. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Food & Drink some finishing touches when we visited in late July, but we Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Gaj Zdravja B/C-3/4, Gornji Trg 17, tel. (+386) liked what we saw. Marella A/B-3, Slovenska 28, tel. (+386) 1426 92 44, 1423 42 52. A small organic supermarket in the old town. Piranske Soline B-3, Mestni trg 19, tel. (+386) 1425 [email protected], www.morris.si. A slightly less expensive Everything from peanut butter to cabbages to tinned baby 01 90, www.soline.si. Times have changed since Roman alternative to its upmarket sister, Max Mara, this spacious food is on offer. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 15:00. soldiers were paid in salt but this mineral still ranks as one of newly-renovated boutique on the city’s main thoroughfare Closed Sun. life’s essentials. Here at Piranske Soline the canvas bags that always offers a fresh diversified collection of contemporary Koželj B-3, Dvorni Trg 1, tel. (+386) 1251 36 44, vi- fill the windows and the shelves are full of the stuff. There is women’s wear. Mediterranean white is the dominant colour of [email protected], www.kozelj.si. Somewhere in the salt for cooking, including the famous salt, hand-scraped the Spring/Summer ‘09 collection, which hails the triumphant region of 85% Slovenian-grown and -produced wine, plus reds, from coastal deposits, along with salted chocolates and a return of sophistication while emphasizing the seductive whites and rosés from around the world. The gregarious chap wide range of salt-related accessories such as salt mills and powers of simplicity. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:30 who runs the place is an expert and will help you through the containers. And if all the walking you’ve done has made you - 14:00. Closed Sun. minefield of local plonk. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 a little weary, you can pick up some pick-me-ups in the form Max Mara B-2, Miklošičeva 6, tel. (+386) 1426 58 80, - 14:00. Closed Sun. of bath salts and scrubs. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 [email protected], www.morris.si. Located opposite the Grand Oliviers&Co B-2, Slovenska 46, tel. (+386) 1232 22 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Hotel Union just steps away from the city’s main square, this 92, www.oliviers-co.com. Fine imported delicacies hard to Rustika C-3, Ljubljanski Grad (Ljubljana Castle)/(+386) is the well-known Italian fashion group’s Slovenian flagship. find elsewhere in Ljubljana. Only the best mustards, pastas, 031 38 32 47. Everything from ghastly ceramic dragons to tra- Of course elegant Italian-made couture doesn’t come cheap, pate and sauces from around the world are on sale here. It ditional paintings on glass to wooden spoons to jewellery inside so you might want to start thinking now about how you can smells great and it’s difficult not to spend a fortune. QOpen the castle’s very own little gift shop. They also have a shop in the claim that must-have summer dress as a business expense. 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. center (Stritarjeva 9, B-3) Q Ljubljana castle: daily: 09:00-20:00 QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. (in the winter 10:00-19:00). In the centre: Mo.-Fr.: 09:00-20:00, Peko B-2, Miklošičeva 14, tel. (+386) 59 089 068, Sa.: 10:00-14:00 , 15:00-19:00, Su.: 10:00-14:00 [email protected], www.peko.si. This new Gifts & Souvenirs Trgovina Ika C-3, Ciril-Metodov Trg 13, tel. (+386) 1 and nicely laid out shoe shop has everything for the feet, from Čokoladnica Cukrček B-3, Mestni Trg 11, tel. (+386) 232 17 43, [email protected], www.trgovina-ika.si. 15 19 92 86, [email protected], www.cukrcek.si. A RoIka puts the creativity of local Slovene artists and fashion charming, family-run business with three shops in the city, designers in the forefront of its shelves, exhibiting a wonderful Tax refund Čokoladnica Cukrček has been delighting adults and making selection of products such as paintings, ceramics, jewellery children happily sick for a decade and a half. Among the and fashion. You can pick up great souvenirs here as a lot If you’re a resident of a non-EU many fine examples of chocolate for sale include special of the products represent the beauty of Ljubljana in artistic member state, you’re eligible Ljubljana dragons in souvenir wooden boxes, fruit covered in forms, or if you’re looking for a unique garment or piece of art, to take advantage of tax free chocolate and even chocolate flavoured with salt. QOpen you’ve come to the right place. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat shopping while visiting Slovenia. 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. 10:00 - 14:00, 15:00-18:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. If you spend over €50 at any shop Črna Luknja C/D-3, Poljanska 19, tel. (+386) 1280 displaying the Global Refund ‘Tax 22 20, [email protected], www.crnaluknja.si. Slov- Free’ logo, they can issue you enian geek heaven. A small shop selling role-playing detritus Home with a special Refund Cheque of all varieties. Interesting only for those who are already Aqua J-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC), tel. (+ 386) 15 85 when you pay. At shops that addicted to this strange little sub-culture, find boxes and 22 95, [email protected], www.aquamaritime.si. don’t officially participate in the program, you’ll need to boxes of classic games translated into Slovenian. QOpen A difficult place to categorise as their products all share a ask for a special invoice for foreigners - you can still get 11:00 - 19:30, Mon 13:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. maritime theme, but otherwise run the gamut from swim- the refund, it just involves a little more red tape. When Closed Sun. suits and sandals to tea pots and cutlery to pencil holders you leave the EU just show the item you purchased and Kraševka B-3, Ciril Metodov Trg 10, tel. (+386) 123 21 and handbags. Luckily their website is well-designed (and in relevant paperwork to a customs official, who will give 445, [email protected], www.krasevka.si. ‘Food glorious English) so you can check out their entire collection before you the necessary stamps. You can then receive cash or food’ goes the song and you may well find yourself humming visiting. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun credit at any of the many Global Refund Offices around it as you scan the shelves of this tasty shop. A family-run the world - at Ljubljana’s Brnik airport this is located at business, Kraševka provides an outlet for local produce the news agents in the check-in area. However, before that until recently was only sold directly from the farmer to Kids making any extravagant purchases assuming you’ll the passing food-a-phile. It started off specializing in produce Baby center J-2, Šmartinska 153, [email protected], receive a 20% discount, make sure to double-check your from the sea but has now expanded to include all manner www.babycenter.si. Filled with almost any and all toys and departure info, especially if you have a layover in another of Slovenian delicacies from pumpkin-seed oil to Tiran wines clothing items your child could ever dream of wanting, if you’re EU country on your way home. Not all customs offices to jams, cheeses, vinegars and dried meats. Catering to the short on time, you’d think twice before entering this shop. From are open 24 hours, so depending on the time and length inner gourmet lurking in most of us, Kraševka well lives up a play area in the entry way to an inside corner stuffed with over- of your layover, it may be next to impossible to get the to its mission statement of selling ‘home-made foods that sized stuffed animals, this three-level shop will hold the attention official stamps you need. are produced with love’. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 of your younger ones for quite some time, probably much longer - 15:00. Closed Sun. than you’ll want. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010 70 Shopping

www.cukrcek.si To Je to B-3, Gallusovo Nabrežje 29, tel. (+386) 1425 67 84, [email protected], www.tojeto.info. This tiny toyshop Recorded music along the river is stocked with old-fashioned wooden toys, games, Spin Vinyl Rock’n’Roll Ploščarna B-3, Gallusovo A rich selection of homemade chocolates, and puzzles which probably have little-to-no appeal to most video- Nabrežje 13, tel. (+386) 1251 10 18, spinvinyl33@masi- game era children. With not much room to play or look around you’ll com.net, www.spinvinyl.si. Ljubljana’s cult old town second- pralines and chocholate gifts. have no trouble clearing the kids out of here in a hurry. QOpen hand record shop not only stocks a magnificent collection of 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. 12-inch oddities including copies of what’s generally considered to be the first punk album released behind the Iron Curtain (from the legendary Slovenian outfit, Pankrti) but is also the best place Markets to stock up on information concerning what’s happening in and BTC Market J-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 1585 14 around the alternative music scene in the city. QOpen 10:30 56. A classic food produce market, modernised and brought - 19:00, Sat 10:30 - 14:00, Sun 10:30 - 13:00. up to date by the large BTC group. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Vom Second Hand B-2, Čopova 14, tel. (+386) 1252 Sat 07:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. 79 21, [email protected], www.vom.si. A tiny shop found down Central Market (Glavna tržnica) C-3, , tel. (+386) an equally small alleyway and brimming with a large selection 1300 12 00. Food and local produce in a covered space and of mostly but not exclusively second-hand vinyl and CDs. an open market square just northeast of the Dragon Bridge. Music on offer includes classic rock and some gems from Flea Market C-3, Cankarjevo Nabrežje. Held every some of the stars of the former Yugoslavia. QOpen 10:00 Sunday morning along the riverside on and around Cobbler’s - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Bridge, find an extraordinary range of antique goods and bric- a-brac from stamps to sofas. Q Open Sun 08:00-14:00. Sex shops Red Shop C-3, Gornji trg 24, tel. (+386) 1425 32 Photography 29/(+386) 41 62 46 08, www.redshop.si/. Concentrating Foto Grad C-2, Miklošičeva 36, tel. (+386) 1439 29 00, mainly on sex toys of all sorts, this store offers a great variety of www.fotograd.com. A small but decent selection of acces- accessories that will help you enrich your sex life. You can visit sories plus developing and passport photographs on request. the establishment in the old part of town or shop online. Just QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. don’t expect much help from the clerk, in English or otherwise. Foto Maxi A/B-3, Trg Republike 2, tel. (+386) 1252 QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. 74 50, www.fotomaxi.com. If you can’t wait to get home Venera Shop C-2, Trubarjeva 43, tel. (+386) 1432 41 83, to start going through your latest holiday photos, this photo www.venera-shop.si. Ever wondered about going a little cra- shop inside the Maxi shopping center, offers fast and efficient zier in bed? Well, what are you waiting for? In this sex shop you’ll services for digital and manual snappers. QOpen 09:00 find all the little toys your heart might desire. A large selection of - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. videos, lubricants and all types of things that run on batteries. Foto Tivoli B-2, Cankarjeva 7, tel. (+386) 1422 36 30, QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. www.foto-tivoli.si. One of the better photographic shops in the city centre selling not only the usual supply of cameras and acces- sories but also a wide range of photographic paper and chemicals. Shopping centres QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Shopping centres are not hard to find in Ljubljana, but most of the big department stores and supermarkets are just out of town and are best found by bus or taxi.

BTC City J-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 1585 22 22, [email protected], en.btc-city.com/. The biggest thing of its kind in the country, the positively humungous BTC features not only some 450 shops selling everything you could possibly imagine, but also boasts restaurants galore, bars, a post office, multiplex 1DGD.ULYRNDSLýþUHäQLN cinema, indoor go-cart racing, a comedy theatre, billiards, vol- 6YHWRYDQMHRSRSHVWULWYLYVSROQRVWL leyball courts, an enormous water park, conference facilities 5HGVKRS*RUQMLWUJ/MXEOMDQD and its very own business district housing some of the best JVPWHO known local and international companies. There’s free parking ID[ for more than 8,500 vehicles too, all just a couple of kilometres "Pustite ljubezni HPDLOQDGD#UHGVKRSVL prosto pot!" GHORYQLÿDVSRQSHWVRE out of the centre of the city in the general direction of Maribor. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Cukrček Chocolate Shop, Pasaža Nebotičnika, Mestni trg 11 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com 72 Shopping

Citypark J-2, Šmartinska 152g, tel. (+386) 1587 30 man could need, and a few things he might not. Marina is a 50, [email protected], www.citypark.si. Ljubljana’s biggest shop for sailors who actually go sailing; this is Slovenia after shopping centre got a little bit bigger on 26 November, with the all, and the whole country appears to own a boat. opening of a new wing - bringing its total store count up to 124. Patrick Sport H-2, Celovška cesta 34, tel. (+386) 1439 Besides the massive variety of stores (every major high street 10 15, fax (+386) 439 10 10. Whether you are skier, you brand is here) there is a terrific choice of places to eat: most of love hiking or any of the sport activities that are popular in the restaurants here are far better than your shopping mall aver- Slovenia, you should check out this specialised store. A small age. There’s parking for all, and so big is this place that even on sporting goods store with a wide selection of equipment for the busiest of weekends it never feels opressively full. QOpen various activities. They concentrate on brands of very high 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. quality like the Kelme brand of football apparel and Hi-Tech Mercator Center Ljubljana H-1, Cesta Ljubljanske gear for the outdoorsy types. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat Brigade 33, tel. (+386) 1513 99 52, [email protected], 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. www.mercator.si. A huge, modern shopping centre with Rogo Sport D-2/3, Trubarjeva 76, tel. (+386) 1430 plenty of underground parking. Find all your favourite shops 54 10. A small shop at the far western end of the street in here plus several restaurants and even some banks. In the providing a limited choice of new bicycles, spare parts and north of the city, 15 minutes from the centre. QOpen 09:00 full service options. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. - 13:00. Closed Sun. Supernova J-3, Jurčkova 223, tel. (+386) 1428 88 83, [email protected], www.supernova.si. Ljubljana’s newest shopping centre is located on the outskirts of the city in Rudnik, Watches and offers plenty of space to leave your car while you go enjoy Slo Watch B-3, Čopova 1, tel. (+386) 12 44 31 spending your hard-earned cash. Check out the all-you-can-eat 30/(+386) 31 32 08 11, [email protected], www. sushi place, which is great value for your money. QOpen 09:00 slowatch.si. With eight locations in Ljubljana, most of which - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. are in the city’s main shopping areas, it’s hard to miss the crown-adorned logo of the country’s most prolific watch retailer. At their upmarket flagship store located right on Sports & Recreation Prešernov Trg, prospective customers are given first-class Intersport B-3, Šubičeva 2, tel. (+386) 1242 77 57, treatment while shopping for brands whose advertisements [email protected], www.intersport.si. Everything regularly line the pages of glossy fashion magazines: Breitling, you need from table tennis balls to skis. Sports fashion too. Tag Heuer, Longines. For those of us with more earth-bound QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. budgets, their shops in BTC and Supernova (among others) Marina Yachting B-3, Mestni Trg 25, tel. (+386) 590 offer more modestly-priced timepieces. QOpen 09:00 38360. Everything, from sou’westers to sweaters, a yachts- - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com 74 Bovec bovec 75

Still on the sunny side of the alps, Bovec is a real green restaurant and luxurious suites. It takes its name from the piece of Europe, a must if you really want to feel sLOVEnia! nearby Boka waterfall, which can be seen from the large Catchy official slogans aside, Slovenia’s supreme sum- terrace. Notably, there is also free unlimited internet (uncom- mer and winter sports town really offers a lot. Lying in the mon in these parts), an in-house sports/activity centre and magnificent upper Soča valley in Northwestern Slovenia shoe cleaning machines on every floor. Located on the main - an EU destination of excellence for 2008 - Bovec allows road between Kobarid and Bovec. Q Bar/restaurant open you to explore all the natural beauties of Triglav National 06:00-23:00 Restaurant €5-13.60; doubles €42-60, suites Park. The town is a great base for summer activity holi- €59-77. PHAILBKW hhhh days, hiking and mountain biking on land, paragliding from the surrounding alpine peaks through the air, or rafting Hotel Alp Trg Golobarskih Zrtev 40, tel. (+386) 53 88 and kayaking on the truly awesome turquoise waters of 40 00, [email protected], www.alp-hotel.si. This comfort- the river Soča. But perhaps the most popular time of year able and rather large hotel, has everything you would expect: here is not the warm summer, but the winter ski season. a bar and restaurant, a large conference room, TVs and mini- IRWRE\&ODXGLR&RVWHUQL The lifts to Kanin ski centre sit only half a kilometre from bars in the rooms and sun terrace. It also has some things the centre of Bovec, making it a winter sports Mecca. you wouldn’t: a mini-sauna village in relaxing surroundings (half price for guests at only €5 weekdays), massage, mani-

cure and pedicure services and use of a nearby swimming IRWRE\8URã=DJRåHQ pool at Hotel Kanin. It is located on the main square, right in the centre of Bovec. Q From €30 per person if booked in advance. PJHAULBKDC hhh

Hotel Kanin Ledina 6, Bovec, tel. (+386) 53 89 68 80, [email protected], www.hotel-kanin.com. The hotel shares its name with the local ski resort, just 1.5km away, reflecting a major source of its winter clientele. It is well established, and one of the finest hotels in Bovec - the other being Hotel Alp. Although the lobby looks a little dated, the rooms are recently renovated, and look very modern (no old tricks of only renovating the lobby here!). The view from the balcony makes the hair on your neck stand on end, as does the view from the heated pool and sauna/wellness centre. Q €49 per person. PJHALBKDC hhh Tourist Information Center Bovec WINTER IN THE VALLEYS OF INSPIRATION Trg golobarskih žrtev 22, 23 Pristava Lepena Lepena 2, Soča, tel. (+386) 53 88 SI -5230 Bovec 99 00/(+386) 41 67 19 81, [email protected], T: +386 (0)5 3896 444 Skiing on KANIN- SELLA NEVEA, the highest ski resort in www.pristava-lepena.com. This place is special. On arrival M: +386 (0)31 388 700 Slovenia (OPENING 23th December 2009) you are greeted by the famous Lipice horses and friendly mountain goats. Run as a hotel and horse-riding centre and E: [email protected] Snowshoeing, dog sledding, sledding, ski school, taking the form of a typical alpine village, you can find pretty www.bovec.si much everything in this perfect blend of modern and tradi- freeride skiing, freeride skiing guide service, tional. There’s even a sauna, fitness room and conference cross-country skiing, ice climbing, ski touring, room within the beautiful log cabins, all amid the spectacular paragliding and hiking in the wild and miraculous mountainous scenery. Located 9km from Bovec. Q €50-69 nature of Triglav National Park per person. HAIFLBKDCW hhhh Relaxation and recreation in the indoor swimming That can’t be safe Mid-range pool and rejuvenating in the wellness centres Motel Encijan Log pod Mangartom 31, tel. +386 53 Arriving by train 84 51 30, [email protected], www.encijan. Sightseeing: Triglav National Park, Soča river, Great Trains are quite tricky. The closest they get to Bovec is com. Tired of civilisation? Then get away to the heart of Soča Gorge, Boka waterfall, Prestreljenik Window, Kluže Most na Soči, approximately 40km to the south. From Triglav National Park, near one of the highest peaks, Mangart Fortress, Trenta museum, Ravelnik museum there you could take a taxi, but bear in mind the distance. (2678m), 11km north-west from Bovec. There you can go Alternatively you could rent a bike from Tolmin (6km from hiking, mountaineering, paragliding or mountain biking, all Exploring unique taste of Bovec culinary delicacies: Most na Soči) and cycle the rest of the way, if you’re feel- arranged by this sport/recreation resort. We especially like »Buški kra«, »Bovec cheese« and »Čompe an skuta« ing a little adventurous. By busThere’s a direct bus from the location of this one for winter adventure holidays, being Ljubljana every day (11:15 and 17:50 weekdays, 06:30 only 10-30minutes, by car, from no less than 3 ski centres Events: 29th and 30th December 2009 3. BOFF (Bovec and 17:50 at weekends), and there are lots of international in 3 different countries: Kanin, Slovenia, Arnoldstain, Austria, links to and from Ljubljana. By bikeYou could even rent a and Sella Nevea, Italy! Summer water-sports also available. Outdoor Film Festival and Snow Sculptures), 31th bike in Ljubljana (or use your own) and cycle the whole way Q €30 per person. THALBKDC December New Year Celebration, 1th January 2010 (about 120km), if you’re a very keen adventurer or crazy, Traditional New Year's Walk to Lemovje or both! Tourist information

Where to stay TIC Bovec Trg Golobarskih Žrtev 8, tel. + 386 53 89 64 44/+386 (0)31 388 700, fax +386 53 Upmarket 89 64 45, [email protected], bovec.si/eng/. QOpen Boka Pension Žaga, 5230 Bovec, tel. (+386) 40 85 09:00 - 17;00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 14:00-14:30-17:00. 65 11, [email protected], www.boka-bovec.si. The word ponedeljek - petek: 9.00 - 17.00, sobota, nedelja: 9.00 pension immediately strikes as inappropriate for this brand- - 14.00 in 14.30 - 17.00. new place, with its upmarket feeling, chic décor, a la carte

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010 IRWRE\5RPHýHUQXWD 76 bovec SKIbove & SPcA 77

entrance to Kanin. They are very well equipped, with fully- Guest Houses fitted kitchens, and even dishwashers. Guests can expect Gostišče Vančar Čezsoča 43, Bovec, tel. (+386) 53 89 60 a discount on sports activities and equipment rental, and 76, [email protected], www.penzionvancar.com. This there are also equipment storage facilities. Q 6 apart- traditional but newly built guest house is modern and impressive, ments €50-130, 30% more for stays of less than 3 nights. yet authentic alpine. It offers rooms, a restaurant and sports/ad- PJALW venture activities, such as rafting, canyoning and paragliding. The location is magnificent, sitting near the beautiful Soča River in a small village just 2km from Bovec. The food and drink is a blend of Where to eat local and international: from trout, home-made ham and schnapps to pizza, schnitzel and Jack Daniels. For the kids they even have a Cafés ‘natural swimming pool’ outside. Q Restaurant: €4-9, Rooms: Kavarna 1920 Trg Golobarskih Zrtev 40. This is one Pohorje mountain near Maribor €22 per person. PTA6ULBKC of the few places in Bovec with public internet access (also Hotel Alp). We like the simplicity of this coffee shop; it does Slovenia is known for specialist tourism; one of the most Kanin Dvor 43, Bovec, www.boveckanin.si. Perched exactly what it should: serves good fresh coffee, organic tea, special reasons being the abundance of wellness and spa high above Bovec, Kanin is Slovenia’s only high altitude Apartments cold drinks, snacks and ice cream. It has a modern lounge centres across the country. The perfect time to visit a spa (over 2000m) ski centre and boasts the country’s longest Apartments Kaninska Vas Kaninska Vas 7, tel. (+386) inside, quaint terrace and inviting tables and chairs on the happens to be when the temperatures are below freezing, “winter” season, actually running all the way from Novem- 53 89 63 33, [email protected], www.kaninska-vas.si. Most of main square. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. . PJNBW which is also the season for hitting the slopes. Slovenia is ber until well into spring and the May national holidays. this big range of alpine apartments are 3-star. They have lots of equally well served with small to medium sized ski resorts, Previously a medium sized resort with 15km of ski runs, space in the centre, and a large flagship complex in Kaninska Restaurants making it a great destination for romantic couples or this year Kanin is joined with a new lift to the Sella Nevea Vas, overlooking Bovec and nestled into the mountainside. The Gostilna Sovdat Trg Golobarskih Zrtev. If you want adventure-seeking families. ski centre across the border in Italy, to make it Slovenia’s location of this one is especially good for mountain bikers, with good hearty Slovenian and European food you don’t have only transnational resort. With a good range of slopes the Kanin MTB Park being only a few minutes away. All the usual to walk far. Sovdat - just within view of the main square in it will appeal to everyone from complete beginners to sporting activities are of course available, from rafting to tan- Bovec - is a typical Slovenian restaurant, simple and friendly. If Ski Resorts advanced skiers and boarders. If that’s not enough for dem paragliding. Check out the special prices from September you can forgive the decoration outside (fake flowers and Igloo Village Krvavec Krvavec, Gorenjska, tel. (+386) 13 you, guests with a six-day Kanin pass can also ski in a - December. Q Studio from €75 for two nights, up to €179 for 6 seaweed green cushions), the garden is a pleasant environ- 00 38 45, [email protected], www.eskimska-vas.si. If the third country for two days, at the Arnoldstein centre in person apartment. JALBW ment with a great mountain view. Fish, Wiener schnitzel fabulously expensive ‘ice hotel’ in Sweden is a bit beyond your Austria. There are off piste opportunities at Kanin, but we and a variety of local dishes are all served here in big por- budget, no fear - there’s an equally frosty reception at Slovenia’s wouldn’t recommend this without an experienced guide. Bovška Hiša Kot 2, Bovec, tel. (+386) 53 88 60 32, tions. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Thu. (€4.80-16). very own igloo village. After dinner in the igloo restaurant and a From Ljubljana, head west on the A1 towards Koper, then [email protected], www.bovec-sc-si. Sharing the same JAB session with your eski-mates down at the ice bar, you have the leave the motorway for Tolmin (30km), once there follow owner as Bovec Šport Center, this place is a pair of bright option of accommodation: a classic or romantic igloo. Snowshoe- Kobarid and then Bovec/Kanin. Total travel time: 1 hour and airy alpine apartments, cutely named Luka and Jakob. Letni Vrt Trg Golobarskih Zrtev. As you might expect from ing, snowbiking and skiing are the main activities available at the 50 minutes.From Ljubljana, head west on the A1 towards These guys, Luka and Jakob that is, sit in the old centre of a restaurant called ‘seasonal garden’, there’s an abundance mountainside location, but just the fact that you’re staying in an Koper, then leave the motorway for Tolmin (30km), once town enjoying the copious nearby amenities: supermarket, of outdoor space. The often busy terrace is covered and igloo should be exciting enough. Expect a party atmosphere in there follow Kobarid and then Bovec/Kanin. Total travel newsagents, souvenir shop, bank, childrens playground and you’re seated on benches at long wooden tables for that au- and around the village, open from December until the end of time: 1 hour 50 minutes. Q One day ski pass: €24 adults, quite a few restaurants. The apartments have lots of person- thentic alpine feeling. The good news is that it sits on Bovec’s March. Good for events and special occasions. Situated just a €21 seniors/youths, €15 kids. ality, including cheeky kitchens, curious cable TV and amiable main square, opposite Hotel Alp. The menu has a wide choice: few kilometres from Joše Pučnik airport (Brnik), or a 45 minute internet connections. Definitely worth asking for some kind hot and cold starters, pizza, fish, lamb, steak, pasta dishes drive from Ljubljana - northbound along the A2 motorway, follow- Kobla Ski Center Cesta na Ravne 7, tel. (+386) 45 of discount on sports activities if you’re staying here. Q €15 and even game meat, as well as dessert. Be aware, as in ing signs for ‘Krvavec Ski Center’. Q Prices are €89/person for 74 71 00, [email protected], www.bohinj.si/kobla. A per person, sleeps 2-4 people. JW most restaurants in these parts the bill always includes a accommodation (which includes night snowshoeing, a welcome relatively compact resort, with 3 double chair-lifts and compulsory table charge (€0.50-1) for bread/napkins and cocktail, dinner in Igloo Restaurant, party with DJ in the Ice Bar, about 5 ski runs (with the longest being 6km), Kobla is Gotour Trg Golobarskih Zrtev 50, Bovec, tel. (+386) 05 38 an extra charge for side dishes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun sleeping in a standard igloo, usage of special expedition sleeping aimed primarily at families and amateur/intermediate ski- 96 36 6/(+386) 04 02 26 93 8, www.gotourbovec.com, 12:00 - 22:00. (€6-21). PJAB bags and breakfast), €45 (without accommodation) and €250 ers. Unsurprisingly then, their emblem is a cartoon bear [email protected]. The primary occupation of this agency for two people (Romantic igloo + champagne). P rather haphazardly skiing down one of their slopes. On a is to rent apartments. They have seven in total, all within the more practical level, Kobla is the only Slovenian ski centre same block, smack in the central square, and all self-contained Nightlife accessible by train. Presumably this means it’s still open (with kitchens, bathrooms, etc). All the delights of the surround- B&R Bar 16. This venue masquerades both Tourist information when the snow is too deep to drive. You can also still go ing countryside are within easy reach, especially water-sports, as a bona fide wine cellar (‘Berce’) and popular local pub. in mild conditions, courtesy of their snow-maker, which mountain bike rental and sledging at Mangart (nearby mountain), With the former you can sample many varieties of home- TIC Kamnik Glavni trg 2, tel. + 386 18 31 82 50, is unusual for the area. Cable-cars leave from Bohinjska which you can arrange in the same building. produced Slovenian wine - with the latter you can drink [email protected], www.kamnik-tourism.si. Bistrica.By car Bohinjska Bistrica is 1hour 10 minutes beer whilst shouting at the day’s live sporting event on QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. from Ljubljana. Follow the signposts from Bled, which is Mrakič Apartments Dvor 53, Bovec, tel. (+386) 41 the big screen outside. Ice cream is on sale at half time, or close to the A2 motorway. 32 91 74, [email protected], www.mrakic. whenever you feel like it. Situated a five minute walk from net. You’re spoilt for choice here for apartments, they are the main square. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. available just 300m from the Kanin ski lifts and also in PJNB the centre of Bovec, still less than a kilometre from the Sports Agencies Bovec Šport Centre Kot 2, Bovec, tel. (+386) 53 88 60 32/(+386) 31 62 87 94, [email protected], www. bovec-sc.si. We like the open and quite spiritual director of this activity centre. He and his guides aim to offer a deeper connection and experience than that of the usual host/client PICK UP FROM ALL HOTELS: 15.30 relationship. A good choice for the inexperienced (and/or terrified), they have just introduced an easier-to-control ADVANCED BOOKINGS REQUIRED inflatable kayak to the Soča. They tell us you can become at so call us: +386 31 362 368 one with nature, both on water and on land. Rafting, kayaking, canyoning, hydrospeed, hiking, mountainbiking, caving and www.eskimska-vas.si winter packages are all available. An office is also located in [email protected] The pristine Julian Alps S. Plestenjak Boka Pension, between Kobarid and Bovec.

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Kranjska Gora Kranjska Gora, tel. +386 45 80 94 40, Maribor Pohorje Mladinska ulica 29, tel. (+386) 26 [email protected], http://www.kranjska-gora. 03 65 57, [email protected], www.pohorje.org. si/Activities/Skiing. Considered the premier ski resort in Pohorje, the biggest ski centre in Slovenia, entertains eve- Slovenia, Kranjska Gora (800-1210m) is a favourite haunt for ryone from beginners to advanced skiers and boarders. rich Slovenes, Croatians and ‘western Europeans’ alike. You With 41.5 km of varied and well-kept piste, it’s non-stop www.terme-snovik.si won’t find the most challenging runs here, but it is excellent fun for friends and families alike. The customary ski/board for beginners and intermediate skiers. If you need more speed school will launch you up to the more challenging runs soon to get the adrenaline pumping, the World Cup slope in nearby enough, but if it’s exercise and scenery you’re after, there Podkoren is sure to do the trick. Cross-country skiers can take are 27km of cross country trails. We love the location, advantage of a beautiful trail, made where the train tracks right beside Slovenia’s second city, Maribor; explaining used to lie, at the bottom of the valley. The slopes are spread why it attracts so many Austrians and Croatians every GREEN WORLD along the Vitranc mountain ridge from Kranjska Gora all the year. It’s a relatively rare urban and ski experience in one. cradeled by Kamnik Alps way to Planica, and are served by 6 chairlifts and 12 drag lifts. Pohorje is accessed by way of 5 chairlifts, 16 ski-lifts and In the far north west of Slovenia, take the A2 from Ljubljana a gondola, the latter even being reachable by Maribor city then go left at Jesenice, 1hour 20 minutes by car. bus.If you happen to have a car, Maribor is one and a half hours east from Ljubljana on the . Otherwise Krvavec Grad 76, Cerklje na Gorenjskem, tel. (+386) take a train then catch a city bus. 42 52 59 30, [email protected], www.rtc-krvavec. si. Voted the best Slovene ski resort the last three years Planica Rateče, tel. (+386) 15 13 68 06, info@ running, its huge popularity (capacity: 13,700 skiers/hour) planica.info, www.planica.si. Home to the annual FIS is partly by virtue ofits proximity to Ljubljana, just 45 minutes ski flying world cup event, the backdrop of the Planica by car. Of course the views are spectacular (1450-1971m), valley is magnificent. Awesome rugged peaks tower all www.kamnik-tourism.si and the piste breathtaking, literally with 23km of medium around; formed by the Planica glacier some 20,000 years to demanding slopes. For beginners and families there’s a ago. The jump itself comprises a fearsomely large and ski school, large equipment rental facility and 7km of easy heart stoppingly steep slope, stuff only for professional slopes. For everyone, there are lots of accommodation op- ski fliers, or the clinically insane. The current world record tions available on the mountain (book early) - and 100 days (239m) is held by one of the former, Norwegian Bjørn Einar of guaranteed skiing per year (90% artificial snow coverage). Romøren, and was contested by a Finn, Janne Ahonen, Slovenia’s flagship ski destination. Head northbound on the whose 240m flight ended with a fall - 2005 was apparently INFO CENTER OPENED A2 from Ljubljana, once out in the countryside it’s signposted a great year for breaking records here. Every year Planica Mon - Sat. : 10.a.m. - 6 p.m. from the motorway, near Kranj. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Prices is prepared for the onslaught of thousands spectators Sun: 10. a.m. - 2 p.m. for 1 day lift pass: €28 adults, €24 students/seniors/youths, in March. Being amongst 2000m+ alpine peaks, it is Phone: +386 1 831-82-50 €16 kids. Rentals from €15 per day for standard equipment. the only kind of setting worthy of such an internationally www.velikaplanina.si [email protected] Other packages are available. prestigious ski event.

Velika Planina Kamniška Bistrica 2, Stahovica, tel. +386 for the most up-to-date offers. Q Daily tickets for the Winter 18 32 72 58/+386 18 31 29 81, [email protected], Thermal Riviera are €12/15 for children/adults with discounts www.velikaplanina.si. A cable car near Kamnik carries you available depending on the time and day. Accommodation at up to this vast mountain plateau. Perched on the open alpine one of the complex’s three hotels or 400 apartments ranges plains is a herdsmen’s settlement, with its quirky architecture, from €57 - 100 per night. simple way of life, and traditionally made dairy products. If the mysterious spirit of the place is lost on the kids, at least they’ll Terme Snovik Snovik 7, Laze v Tuhinju, tel. (+386) 18 have a great time on the snowy playground, ski-lift Jurček or the 34 41 00, fax (+386) 18 34 41 36, [email protected], free kindergarten here every weekend (11:00-13:00). In terms www.terme-snovik.si. Tucked into the Kamniško-Savinjske of skiing, Velika Planina is perfect for families and beginners, to Alps not far from the ever-popular Velika Planina and Krvavec ski intermediate skiers interested in a cultural experience. 6km of resorts, Terme Snovik boasts one of the most scenic locations slopes (mostly medium difficulty) are served by 6 ski lifts and of any spa and wellness centre in the country, and is only a short rise from 1412-1666m. Winter at Velika Planina holds plenty of drive north from Ljubljana. Their indoor thermal pool is open year- other opportunities to be active on the snow: sledging, walking, round, and the natural healing powers of its magnesium and hiking, cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. If you’re here over calcium rich water has been officially recognised by the Slovenian the holidays, there’s a very popular midnight church service on Ministry of Health. During the winter you’re apt to find a pick-up Christmas eve. To get there, head north-east from Ljubljana to- hockey game taking place on their natural ice rink, and for more wards Mengeš and Kamnik, then continue north through Kamnik adventurous visitors hikes of varying degrees of difficulty and following signs for Kamniška Bistrica and Velika Planina. lengths can be arranged in the surrounding countryside.

Terme SPA Rogaška Zdraviliški Trg 12, Rogaška Spa & Wellness Slatina, tel. (+386) 38 11 20 00, fax (+386) 38 11 Terme Čatež Topliška 35, Čatež ob Savi, tel. (+386) 74 20 12, [email protected], www.terme- 93 50 00, fax (+386) 74 93 50 05, info@terme-catez. rogaska.si. You’ll be hard-pressed to find a more opulent si, www.terme-catez.si. Located in Southeastern Slovenia place to rest your head anywhere in the country than at near the town of Brežice - which is one of the country’s major the Grand Hotel Rogaška - the main attraction of this 400 centres of wine production - Terme Čatež is a well-known year old thermal spa and resort. Although the interior has wellness, business and recreational centre, featuring one of been extensively renovated since it was frequented by the Slovenia’s most impressive water parks, which includes such Habsburg era notables as Emperor Ferdinand and the largest indoor thermal pool with over 2300m² of surface the composer Franz Liszt, it’s obvious that no expense area. In December they also open a large ice skating rink, was spared in maintaining the original appearance. And accompanied of course by stands selling mulled wine, hot of course it wouldn’t be a spa without a square kilometre chocolate and other sweets, as well as music. Many special of invigorating mineral water pools spread about its immacu- holiday packages are available over the Christmas and New lately kept grounds. It’s located about 40km east of Celje, just Year period, with significant family discounts - check their site off route 107. PTARUFLEGBKDCW

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With only 46 kilometres of Adriatic coast to call their own, Slovenes have to make the most of every centimetre. Gostilna Korte Korte 44, tel. (+386) 5642 02 The result is a coastline dotted with half a dozen or so 00/(+386) 41 60 78 63, [email protected], www. notable towns, each with its own unique character, charms gostilnakorte.si/. Locals and tourists alike make regular and quirks. From tiny near the Italian border to pilgrimages up into the hills between Izola and Portorož to dine the poetically named Portorož, or Port of Roses, near the at this traditional inn. The menu has a mix of Slovene, Mediter- Sečovlje Salt pans that separate Slovenia from Croatia ranean and regional Istrian dishes, and a great selection of - with picturesque Piran, the sleepy fishing village of Izola local wines - a bottle of which should be mandatory with any and the municipal centre and port town of Koper in be- meal. It’s also not a bad place to come for a drink if you need tween - the coast is a diverse destination for visitors and an excuse to get out and enjoy the fresh air, but are not in the only an hour’s drive from Ljubljana. As an added bonus it mood to eat. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue. also enjoys relatively mild winters compared with the rest of the country. Wine Bar Manzioli J-6, Manziolijev Trg 5, tel. (+386) 5616 21 37, [email protected]. Operated by the Zaro family, who have called Izola home for around 700 years, the bar occupies the ground floor of a former palace on the old town’s most picturesque square. It’s one of our favourite spots on the entire coast for a drink, and the best place in Izola to sample quality local wines. If you’re there on a Saturday afternoon you’re also likely to catch at least one wedding ceremony at the church opposite. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. JAB Piran Max Korpusa 26, tel. (+386) 5673 34 76/(+386) 41 69 29 28, www.maxpiran.com. Up the hill from Tartini Square, this small boutique hotel is housed in a beautiful 300 year old house and is one of our favourite places to stay on the coast, although if you’re a light sleeper the over-active bells at the cathedral next door may prove bothersome. Max, the owner and apparently sole employee, is a friendly old bulldog and ardent Liverpool sup- porter who’ll be glad to carry your luggage up the narrow stairs or talk your ear off over coffee, but we’ve also heard rumours that he can have a bit of bark if you interrupt his afternoon siesta. Q 6 rooms (doubles €60-70). PJA hhh

Tartini Café A-1, Tartinijev Trg 3, tel. (+386) 5 673 33 81. Marita E-4, Obala 89, tel. (+386) 5617 22 00, fax In a town were the famous composer unwittingly lends his name (+386) 5617 22 17, [email protected], www.hotel- to just about everything, we’re not exactly sure how this became marita.si. From the outside, Marita’s glassy and bland-col- the Tartini café but we assume it wasn’t an easy feat. In any event, oured appearance does not do her much justice. However, housed in a beautiful building that was once the old town Loggia in the greenery of her gardens and large swimming pools are Picturesque Piran the north corner of Tartini Square, it’s definitely worthy of the name a delight. Marita is situated just on the edge of town and - although it’s pastel furniture and futuristic egg shell chairs do very close to Lucija (Portoroz’s neighbouring town), which seem a bit out of place. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PJAB provides a calmer alternative to the crowded restaurants and Ankaran Restaurant beaches along Obala. Q 83 rooms (singles €150, doubles Villa Andor Vinogradniška Pot 9, tel. (+386) 56 15 Tartini Square (Tartinijev Trg) A-1, . Already arguably the €190, suite €200-250). PTAULGBKXCW 50 00/(+386) 41 65 51 00, fax (+386) 56 15 50 17, specialized in traditional most impressive squares in Slovenia, all debate was put to rest hhhh [email protected], www.andor.si. Housed in a beautifully Istrian dishes last year when it was transformed into a pedestrian only zone preserved centuries-old Venetian-style villa, Andor enjoys with outdoor cafés taking the place of parked cars - a fact that Paprika E-4, Obala 20a, tel. (+386) 5651 41 02, info@ protected historic status as it had previously served as both has yet to be reflected on most internet sites, including Google paprika.si, www.paprika.si. A cafe during the day, the a private and official state residence before being opened Boutique Hotel Maps. Fronted by two large neo-Renaissance buildings on one uber-modern interior only hints at the debaucherous disco

as a hotel in the mid-90s. Its 14 double rooms all come with side and a mélange of smaller buildings of varying architectural scene that the place transforms into during the evening with antique furnishings as well as modern amenities, and most Gambling Saloon Casinò styles on the other, the square itself is younger than almost all themed nights ranging from latin to house music. The nights have at least partial sea views. Try to request room four (the of them, having been part of Piran’s harbour until it was filled in are replete with scantily clad go-godancers and a rotating Honeymoon suite), which has French doors opening onto a in 1884. The square’s inner oval was given its distinctive shape roster of local and travelling DJs. QOpen 08:00 - 04:00. large private balcony. Q 14 rooms (singles €40-45, doubles when it served as the terminus for an electric railway that con- Admission free. PAULEGBXW €80-90). POA6ILBKX Villa ANDOR nected Piran to Portorož and Lucija until 1953. Sečovlje Saline Nature Park , tel. (+386) 5672 13 Andor Vinogradniška Pot 9, tel. (+386) 56 15 50 the place to indulge your senses. 30, [email protected], www.kpss.si. Hundreds of years 00/(+386) 41 65 51 00, [email protected], www.andor. Portorož ago, salt wasa commodity almost as valuable as gold and si. Located in the hotel of the same name, the restaurant Kempinski Palace Portorož D-3, Obala 45, tel. (+386) rulers fought to acquire and controlits means of collection. focuses on promoting regional Mediterranean-Istrian cuisine 5692 70 00, www.kempinski-portoroz.com. This grandest of Sečovlje was one such rarified area and today it is preserved and local delicacies with its multi-course slow food menus residences dominates Obala Street and the entire Piran Bay with as a park with a visitors’ center and museum. A fascinating prepared daily by their renowned head chef, Tomaž Bevčič. its majestic architecture and refined gardens. All the comforts of piece of history, the salt pans are not only an interesting Along with a specially-selected wine to compliment each dish, a 5 star hotel can be found at the Palace, and at a reasonable public park, they are also awell-preserved natural habitat for it’s a great way to spend three or more hours on a weekend price for the quality. When you want to escape for a moment of all kinds of wildlife. The trek out to thepans is an interesting visit to the coast. During the warmer months you can dine peace, the tranquil gardens at the rear of the hotel offer are a one but make sure to pack your insect repellant, not all of on a large stone terrace with views across the Gulf of Koper, Vinogradniška pot 9, Ankaran, Slovenia shady retreat rom the busy Obala entrance. Q 164 rooms, 17 the inhabitants here are friendly. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. while the kids entertain themselves at the nearby playground. www.andor.si suites (singles €235-310, doubles €285-360, suites €900-2150). Admission: €3 adults; €2 students, seniors; free for children QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PTJHAUILEBKXCW hhhhh under age six.

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As would be expected from a country which borrows the Simčič (Karol & Igor & Marijan) Hum 8, Kojsko, tel. lyrics for its national anthem from a poem entitled The (+386) 53 04 65 26, fax (+386) 53 04 65 27, info@vi- Toast, winemaking and viticulture hold a special place in nosimcic.si, www.vinosimcic.si. First appearing in the local the hearts and minds of most Slovenes. With hundreds of land registry back in the 19th century and covering some 32 individual vineyards - most of which are small to medium- hectares of terraced vineyards today, Vrhunska Vina Simčič is sized family run affairs - spread across several different one of the oldest and largest wineries in Brda. They produce wine-growing regions, choosing where to visit during a a wide variety of white and red wines including Rebula, Pinot short stay can be a daunting task. We’ve tried to include a Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Sauvignon among the wide range of options below, but as you can see, our slight former and Merlot, Chabernet Sauvignon and Refošk (the bias towards and geographic proximity to the west of the so-called King of Reds) among the latter. Tours and tastings country has left those regions (especially Goriška Brda) are available for both individuals and larger groups, but it’s more well-represented than their counterparts in the east. always best to call at least a few days in advance to make But when it comes to tasting wine and visiting vineyards, arrangements. QClosed Sun. in Slovenia you can’t really go wrong. Valentinčič Tourism Podsabotin 48A, Kojsko, tel. +386 41 65 19 39/+386 53 04 65 78, [email protected], Western Slovenia Stirring the amphora at Erzetic www.valentincic.si. For nearly half a century the Valentinčič Brda Tel. (+386) 53 95 95 94, [email protected], family has been producing wine in the fertile rolling hills of Brda. www.brda.si/en. Occupying 72km² of rolling hills between unique wine tasting experiences in the Brda region. Dating Specialising in fresh whites, including the region’s indigenous Re- the Soča River and Italian border, Brda is one of Slovenia’s back to 1725, the family-run estate produces up to 80,000 bula, the place is open to visitors year-round, although it’s always foremost wine-growing areas and only an hour’s drive from bottles per year - several varieties of which have been deco- a good idea to call and make arrangements in advance. In addition Ljubljana. Often described as a miniature version of Tuscany, rated at internnational competitions, including the prestigious wine tastings and tours, the family’s four-hectare estate also every hill seems to be topped with a large church (there are Decanter World Wine Awards. They’re also one of only two serves as a relaxing bed breakfast (the latter being quite tasty), actually only 30 in all) surrounded by a charming little village, wineries in Slovenia to produce wine using large ceramic vases with six rooms and one suite, all fitted with wooden furniture, while the hillsides and valleys in between are blanketed with called amphoras - which were specially-built in in Georgia and modern amenities and ample amounts of rustic charm. vineyards, orchards and winding country roads. Aside from a give the wine a very distinctive earthy flavour. few larger estates and one cooperative, most of the vineyards Vinska Klet Goriška Brda Zadružna 9, Dobrovo, are smaller family-run operations, and almost all offer some Klinec Homestead Medana 20, Dobrovo v Brdih, tel. tel. +386 5 33 10 100, fax +386 5 33 10 109, info@ combination of wine tastings, tours, meals, accommodation (+386) 53 95 94 08/(+386) 31 33 94 63, nejkak@ya- klet-brda.si, www.klet-brda.com. This cooperative is the and of course wine sales. The region is also known for its hoo.com, klinec.si. More than just a winery or tourist farm, region’s largest wine producer and also boasts the country’s traditional Italian-influenced cuisine, and a trip to Brda without the Klinec homestead is a truly one of a kind place. The small largest wine cellar, with a capacity of 18 million litres. Since its enjoying a slow multi-course meal on a terrace overlooking family-run operation produces a range of exquisite organic formation back in 1922, the cooperative has been the driving the vineyards almost defeats the entire purpose. The tour- wines and serves an array of mouth-watering seasonal dishes force behind Goriška Brda’s viticulture tradition, and has also ist information office at Dobrovo Castle is well-stocked with following traditional recipes and cooking methods of the Brda taken an active role in promoting the region throughout Slov- multi-lingual maps, brochures and other literature, and a great region. They also play a central role in Medana’s thriving arts enia and abroad. Highly educational tours of the cellar along place to start for first-time visitors. scene, hosting well-known painters and sculptors for a week- with wine tastings start at only €2.50 per person. QOpen long festival every October, as well as various jazz concerts, 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Cantina Simčič Ceglo 3b, Dobrovo, tel. (+386) 53 95 film viewings and poetry readings throughout the year. Q 92 00, fax (+386) 53 95 92 01, [email protected], www. Open Fri 19:00-23:00, Sat 12:00-15:00 & 19:00-23:00, Sun simcic.si. Marjan and Salko Simčič operate one of the most 12:00-16:00 and Mon-Thu by arrangement. Eastern Slovenia widely known and respected vineyards not only in Brda or Galantes Wines www.vina-galantes.si, tel. (+386) Slovenia, but the entire region. Their estate covers 16 hec- Poljšak Gradišče pri Vipavi 39A, Vipava, tel. (+386) 53 2654 42 70. Part of a cooperative aimed at promoting natu- tares with roughly half on either side of the Slovene-Italian 66 53 59/(+386) 41 44 10 01, samo.poljsak@volja. rally-grown products from the Štajerska region, they operate border. The family has been producing wine commercially net, users.volja.net/spoljs. The award-winning Poljšak two wine cellars in the hills north of Maribor and can arrange since 1860 and currently turn out 80,000 bottles per year, family winery occupies a four-hectare estate in the sunny tastings and guided tours in the surrounding vineyards. Check which are exported around the world. Tastings can be ar- and wind-swept Vipava Valley, a region especially known for with the tourist information centre or more details. ranged for groups as large as 30 people, but advance booking its prized Zelen wines. The ancient, autochthonous grape is a must. QClosed Sun. variety of the same name is native to the valley, and produc- Jeruzalem (Prlekija Tourist Organisation) Jureša tion runs are kept small and strictly controlled in order to Cirila 4, Ljutomer, tel. (+386) 2581 11 05, fax (+386) Erzetič Višnjevik 25A, Dobrovo v Brdih, tel. (+386) 53 guarantee the highest quality. Situated just off the motorway 2584 83 34, [email protected], www.jeruzalem.si. Legend 95 94 60/(+386) 41 64 31 14, erzetic.visnjevik@volja. between Postojna and Nova Gorica, Vipava is only a half has it that the vine covered landscape of the Ljutomer-Ormož net, www.vina-erzetic.com. Located in the unassuming hour drive from Ljubljana and can be easily combined with hills, and the wine it produces, so enchanted passing crusaders village of Višnjevik, the Erzetič winery offers one of the more surrounding sights. that a good number of them found it difficult to continue on their quest to regain the Holy Land. Torn between religious fervour and Bacchanalian urges, it was decided that the most expedi- ent solution would be to abandon their crusade and instead just name the highest hill in area Jeruzalem - which in hindsight may not have been the such a bad decision. Regardless of the legend’s historical accuracy, it’s a matter of fact that the region produces some of the best wine in the country, and its wine SAMUEL POLJŠAK roads are well worth visiting. Check with the local tourist board for information on arranging accommodation and guided tours. GRADIŠČE 39a QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 5271 VIPAVA Radgonske Gorice Slovenia’s first producer of sparkling SLOVENIJA wine has been turning out the bubbly stuff for over a century and Tel.: +386(5)36 65 359 a half now. Located only a few hundred metres from the Austrian GSM: 041 441 001 border, their vast cellars are open for tastings, tours and even the odd wedding, while a sightseeing train makes its way though e-mail: [email protected] the thousand year old Radgona and Kapela districts.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010 84 Shopping Mail & Phones 85

Mobitel D-1, Vilharjeva 25, tel. (+386) 1472 23 20, Postal rates [email protected], www.mobitel.si. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Letters <20g Postcards Tušmobil J-2, , tel. (+386) 80 700 700, www.tusmobil. Slovenia € 0.24 € 0.20 si. Abroad € 0.45 € 0.40 Vodafone Simobil B-3, Čopova 4, tel. (+386) 1426 71 02, [email protected], www.simobil.si. QOpen 08:00 Express Mail - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. DHL Špruha 19, Trzin, tel. (+386) 1588 78 00, www.dhl. si. QOpen 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Post FedEx J-2, Ob Železnici 14, tel. (+386) 15 47 33 86. Efficient and affordable, there’s little chance of your mail QOpen 08:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. getting lost. Kurirček Tel. (+386) 80 1881/(+386) 51 44 45 55, [email protected], www.kurircek.si. QOpen 07:00 Main post office (Glavna pošta) B-2, Slovenska 32, - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. tel. (+386) 1243 19 60, www.posta.si. QOpen 08:00 Tine Express J-1, Nadgoriških Borcev 34, tel. (+386) - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. 15 61 70 00, www.tine.si. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. TNT Express J-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 15 87 Public telephones 83 00, [email protected], www.tnt.si. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Telekom Slovenije has card phones with English-language Closed Sat, Sun. instructions dotted all over Slovenia. Phone cards are for UPS Intereuropa Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386) 42 81 sale at post offices and kiosks, and are available in four 12 00, www.ups-slovenia.com. QOpen 07:00 - 17:00. flavours: €2.92, €4.18, €7.09 and €14.61. Closed Sat, Sun. Telephone calls Laptop login For purposes of clarity and ease of use, all locations in Travellers can easily hook up to Slovenia’s wifi network by this guide include full telephone numbers - i.e. country, surfing to www.neowlan.net; there are hotspots allover the city and mobile codes in addition to local number. To call country, and payment is by prepaid NeoWLAN cards, for any number from a fixed-line within Slovenia, just drop the sale at kiosks and post offices, or by credit card. Charges (+386) and dial 0 instead. For example, (+386) 12 34 56 are €3 per half hour, €9 per 2 hours or €15-19 per 24 78, becomes just 0 12 34 56 78. If you’re using a mobile hours. With a local Mobitel SIM card you can also connect phone it’s generally easier to just leave the country codes via your mobile, charged at €0.21 per 5 minutes. as they are, as you’ll have to do so anyway if you’re on Many hotels offer free wifi for their guests, but there’s international roaming from your home country. To call to also an number of free public wifi locations in Ljubljana, Slovenia from abroad, dial the number exactly as we’ve including at the airport and in the Konzorcij bookshop written it. To call abroad from Slovenia, dial + followed (Slovenska 29). See www.hotspot-locations.com for a full by the country code, the city code and the subscriber’s list of paid and unpaid hotspots. number. Mobile phones There are several mobile phone networks in Slovenia, the largest being Mobitel, Simobil and Tušmobil, which are pretty similar in price, quality and coverage. To avoid roaming costs from your foreign home provider or to have a handy local telephone number, travellers can purchase a prepaid SIM card to use in a GSM handset. SIM cards are for sale in all post offices, petrol stations and at 3Dva kiosks as well as at the providers’ shops listed below, with M-mobil cards sold in all Mercator shops. The SIM start-up Apparently not everyone suffers from Yugostalgia costs for all companies are between €5-17, including some phone credit. After getting the SIM card you can top up Country codes the card balance with vouchers. ID is not necessary when purchasing a SIM card. Albania 355 Greece 30 Poland 48 Australia 61 Hungary 36 Portugal 351 Debitel , tel. (+386) 1306 01 00, [email protected], Austria 43 Ireland 353 Romania 40 www.debitel.si. Belarus 375 Israel 972 Russia 7 Belgium 32 Italy 39 Serbia 381 Bosnia-Herz. 387 Japan 81 Slovakia 421 City codes Bulgaria 359 Kosovo 381 Slovenia 386 Croatia 385 Latvia 371 Spain 34 When calling from abroad, prefix with +386 and drop the zero. Czech Rep. 420 Lithuania 370 Sweden 46 Celje 03 Murska Sobota 02 Denmark 45 Macedonia 389 Switzerland 41 Koper 05 Nova Gorica 05 Estonia 372 Moldova 373 Turkey 90 Kranj 04 Novo mesto 07 Krško 07 Postojna 05 Finland 358 Montenegro 381 UK 44 Ljubljana 01 Ravne na Koroškem 02 France 33 Netherlands 31 Ukraine 380 Maribor 02 Trbovlje 03 Germany 49 Norway 47 USA 1

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010 86 Lifestyle directory

Beauty & Wellness Design CHAOTHAI masaže za boljše počutje F-3, Jana Husa Ultimo Imerio J-2, Zaloška 24, tel. (+386) 41 512 565, 3, tel. (+386) 40 83 73 63, [email protected], fax (+386) 1 5401833, [email protected], www. www.chaothai.si. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. ultimoimperio.com. Massage Corner H-1, Dunajska 111a/(+386) 040 97 14 67. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Sense Welness Club B/C-3, Dunajska 154, tel. (+386) Dry cleaners 1588 2600/(+386) 030 388 388, sense@sense-club. Chemo Express B-3, Wolfova 12, tel. (+386) 1251 44 com, ww.sense-club.com. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. 04. QOpen 07:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Sončni studio body line C-3, Poljanska cesta 15, tel. Femiks C-2, Kotnikova 18, tel. (+386) 1230 18 20, (+386) 40 780 036. [email protected]. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mehurček Viška 54, tel. (+386) 1256 77 08, me- [email protected], www.mehurcek.si. QOpen 08:00 Clinics - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Barsos-MC B-3, Gregorčičeva 11, tel. (+386) 1 242 07 00, fax (+386) 1 242 07 44, barsos.ordinacija.net. Health Centre Metelkova D-2, Metelkova 9, tel. Hairdressers (+386) 1472 37 00, www.zd-lj.si. Mič Styling B-3, Kongresni Trg 4, tel. (+386) 1241 40 Kirurški Sanatorij Rožna dolina H-2, Rožna dolina 40, www.micstyling.com. With six locations in Ljubljana, IV/45, tel. (+386) 1477 94 00, info@kirurski-sanatorij. Mič is one of the city’s most well-known hairdressers (or si, www.kirurski-sanatorij.si. ‘frizerski’ in Slovene). All of the locations have similar stylish University Medical Centre Ljubljana D-2, Zaloška 2, interiors, with minimalist designs, down-tempo music and tel. (+386) 1522 50 50, [email protected], www2.kclj.si. large selections of hair products available for purchase. Most of the salons are in the city centre, with the exceptions be- ing in City Park and Mercator Centre Šiška. QOpen 08:00 Dentists - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Babit Kolezijska 25, tel. (+386) 1283 23 73, info@babit. Simple, Ljubljana E.Leclerc J-3, Jurčkova cesta si, www.babit.si. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 225, tel. (+386) 1428 98 98, [email protected], www. Dental clinic Zaloška 2, tel. (+386) 1522 53 46. simple.si. QOpen 8:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, QOpen 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Health Centre Metelkova D-2, Metelkova 9, www. Simple, Ljubljana SUPERNOVA J-3, Jurčkova cesta 223, zd-lj.si. QOpen 20:30 - 04:30. tel. (+386) 1427 40 98, [email protected], www.simple.si. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Stevo C-2, Trubarjeva 44, tel. (+386) 1431 51 38, [email protected], www.stevo-sp.si. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Studio Christian B-2, Vošnjakova 1, tel. (+386) 41 98 77 17. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Opticians Mestna optika B-3, Kongresni Trg 9, tel. (+386) 1251 41 56, [email protected], www. mestna-optika.si. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Optika FELIKS A-3, Igriška 14, tel. (+386) 1425 00 02/(+386) 040 206 070, [email protected], www. optikafeliks.com. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Optika FELIKS, PE: SUPERNOVA J-3, Jurčkova cesta 223, tel. (+386) 1427 31 03/(+386) 031 835 500, super- [email protected], www.optikafeliks.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Optika Zajec B-2, Puharjeva 3, tel. (+386) 1252 72 82, [email protected], www.zajec-optika.si. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Pharmacies Central Pharmacy (Centralna lekarna) B-3, Prešernov Trg 5, tel. (+386) 1244 23 60, lekarna. [email protected], www.lekarna-lj.si. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Lekarna Ljubljana D-2, Prisojna 7, tel. (+386) 1230 62 30, [email protected], www.lekarna- lj.si. Q Open 24hrs. Lekarna Miklošič C-2, Miklošičeva 24, tel. (+386) 1230 62 52, [email protected], www.lekarna-lj.si. QOpen 07:30 - 19:30, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

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No4_Oglas143x210_ENG.indd 1 11/3/09 11:50:51 AM 88 BUSINESS directory BUSINESS directory 89

Banks Brazil B-3, Kongresni trg 3, tel. (+386) 1244 24 00. Abanka B-2, Slovenska 50, tel. (+386) 1300 15 00. Bulgaria H-3, Opekarska 35, tel. (+386) 1 28 32 Bank Of Slovenia B-2, Slovenska 35, tel. (+386) 899. 1471 90 00. Canada (consulate) B-2, Trg republike 3, tel. (+386) Deželna Banka Slovenije C-2, Kolodvorska 9, tel. 1252 44 44. (+386) 1472 71 00. Chile (consulate) G-2, Brdnikova 34b, tel. (+386) Hypo Group Alpe Adria B-3, Slovenska 29, tel. (+386) 1423 96 70. 1580 41 40. China E-2, Koblarjeva 3, tel. (+386) 1420 28 55. Nova Ljubljanska Banka B-3, Trg Republike 2, tel. Croatia C-4, Gruberjevo nabrežje 6, tel. (+386) 1200 (+386) 1476 39 00. 44 01. Raiffeisen Bank C-3, Pogačarjev Trg 2, tel. (+386) Cyprus B-2, Komenskega 12, tel. (+386) 1232 15 1234 98 18. 42. Skb B-2, Ajdovščina 4, tel. (+386) 1471 59 58. Czech Republic A-3, Riharjeva 1, tel. (+386) 1420 Unicredit Banka Slovenija B-3, Wolfova 1, tel. 24 50. (+386) 1587 64 72. Denmark B-1, Tivolska 48, tel. (+386) 143 80 800. Egypt B-2, Miklošičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1308 18 50. Finland B-2, Ajdovščina 4/ VIII, tel. (+386) 1300 Business centres 21 20. Ljubljanski Univerzitetni Inkubator H-1, Vojkova France B-4, Barjanska 1, tel. (+386) 1479 04 00. 63, tel. (+386) 1620 34 80. Germany A-2, Prešernova 27, tel. (+386) 1479 03 Poslovni angeli Slovenije H-2, Železna 18, tel. 00. (+386) 1307 09 33. Greece C-4, Trnovski Pristan 14, tel. (+386) 1420 Tehnološki Park Ljubljana H-2, Teslova 30, tel. 14 00. (+386) 1477 66 13. Hungary G-1, Ulica Konrada Babnika 5, tel. (+386) The Business Center (Virtual Office and Business 1512 18 82. Center) B-2, Slovenska 34, tel. (+386) 1 4701 690. India B-2, Maurerjeva 29, tel. (+386) 1513 31 17. Indonesia (consulate) A-3, Prešernova 11, tel. (+386) 1200 51 77. Chambers of Commerce Ireland C-3, Poljanski nasip 6, tel. (+386) 1300 89 Chamber of Commerce and Industry of Slovenia 70. H-1, Dimičeva 13, tel. (+386) 1589 80 00. Israel (consulate) H-1, Dunajska 119, tel. (+386) 1566 10 20. Italy A-3, Snežniška 8, tel. (+386) 1426 21 94. Computers Japan B-3, Trg republike 3/ XI, tel. (+386) 1200 82 Comshop BTC J-2, Šmartinska 152/9, tel. (+386) 81. 051 34 59 11. Jordan (consulate) J-2, Zaloška 159, tel. (+386) Sosed H-2, Vojkova 63, tel. (+386) 31 610 604. 1546 15 00. Tech Trade B-2, Vošnjakova 5, tel. (+386) 1434 Latvia B-2, Ajdovščina 4, tel. (+386) 040 22 91 71. 01 08. Lithuania B-3, Kongresni Trg 3, tel. (+386) 1244 26 11. Luxemburg (consulate) B-3, Slovenska 27, tel. Consultants (+386) 1470 70 15. IQbator B-2, Drenikova 33, tel. (+386) 41690666. Macedonia A-3, Prešernova 2, tel. (+386) 1421 MM-konto H - - 1, Devova 5, tel. (+386) 1515 50 22. 00 21. Par H-3, Tbilisijska 128, tel. (+386) 1423 15 06. Malta (consulate) B-2, Kersnikova 11, tel. (+386) Pro-Eco H-1, Vodovodna 99a, tel. (+386) 1565 45 041 444 014. 67. Mehico ((consulate)) B-3, Trg republike 3, tel. (+386) Tax-Fin-Lex C-1, Dunajska 20, tel. (+386) 1432 1470 70 35. 42 43. Montenegro D-2, Njegoševa 14, tel. (+386) 1439 53 64. Morocco (consulate) H-2, Bizjanova 2, tel. (+386) Currency exchange 1581 63 00. Menjalnica AŽUR C-2, Kolodvorska 2, tel. (+386) Netherlands C-2, Poljanski nasip 6, tel. (+386) 1420 1786 08 80. 14 61. Primus Group C-1/2, Trg OF 6, tel. (+386) 1432 New Zealand (consulate) H-1, Verovškova 57, tel. 10 14. (+386) 1580 30 55. Publikum FIN C-2, Miklošičeva 34, tel. (+386) 1300 Norway B-2, Ajdovščina 4/ VIII, tel. (+386) 1300 60 80. 21 40. Philippines (consulate) H-1, Ulica Bratov Učakar 50, tel. (+386) 1518 15 84. Embassies and Consulates Poland H-2, Bežigrad 10, tel. (+386) 1 436 47 12. Albania J-2, Zaloška 69, tel. (+386) 1547 36 50. Portugal B-3, Trg Republike 3/X, tel. (+386) 1479 Australia (Consulate) H-2, Dunajska 50, tel. (+386) 05 40. 1425 42 52. Romania H-1, Smrekarjeva 33A, tel. (+386) 1505 Austria A-3, Prešernova 23, tel. (+386) 1479 07 00. 82 94. Belgium B-3, Trg Republike 3/ IX, tel. (+386) 1200 Russia A-2, Tomšičeva 9, tel. (+386) 1422 49 20. 60 10. Serbia C-2, Slomškova 1, tel. (+386) 1438 01 10. Bosnia & Herzegovina H-1/2, Kolarjeva 26, tel. Seychelles (consulate) Tržaška 19a, Logatec, 30km (+386) 1234 32 50. southwest of Ljubljana, tel. (+386) 1754 29 46.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010 90 Business directory

Slovakia A-3, Tivolska 4, tel. (+386) 1425 54 25. Public Administration H-2, Tržaška 21, tel. (+386) South Africa (consulate) C-2, Pražakova 4, tel. 1478 83 30. (+386) 1200 63 00. Transport H-2, Langusova 4, tel. (+386) 1478 80 00. South Korea (consulate) B-3, Trg Republike 3, tel. (+386) 1252 71 17. Spain C-4, Trnovski pristan 24, tel. (+386) 1420 NGOs 23 30. Amnesty International B-2, Beethovnova 7, tel. Sweden B-2, Ajdovščina 4/ VIII, tel. (+386) 130 00 (+386) 1426 93 77. 270. Cnvos F-3, Povšetova 37, tel. (+386) 1542 14 22. Switzerland B-3, Trg republike 3/ VI, tel. (+386) Lic F-3, Povšetova 37, tel. (+386) 1521 18 88. 1200 86 40. Peace Institute D-2, Metelkova 6, tel. (+386) 1234 Thailand (consulate) C-2, Pražakova 12, tel. (+386) 77 20. 1433 30 26. Red Cross (Rdeči Križ) B-4, Mirje 19, tel. (+386) Turkey B-1, Livarska 4, tel. (+386) 1236 41 50. 1241 43 00. Ukraine H-2, Teslova 23, tel. (+386) 1421 06 04. Sonček H-1, Rožanska 2, tel. (+386) 1534 06 67. UK A-3, Trg Republike 3/ 4, tel. (+386) 1200 39 10. Zveza AIESEC Slovenija B-2, Kersnikova 4, tel. USA A-2, Prešernova 31, tel. (+386) 1200 55 00. (+386) 51 299 863. Vatican C-3, Krekov Trg 1, tel. (+386) 1433 92 04. Notaries Insurance companies Košak ml. Miro B-3, Trg republike 3, tel. (+386) 1 Adriatic Slovenica C-2, Miklošičeva 20, tel. (+386) 244 25 00. 1439 81 80. Nevenka Tory B-2, Beethovnova 14, tel. (+386) Generali H-2, Kržičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1475 71 00. 1242 96 80. Kd Življenje H-1, Celovška 206, tel. (+386) 158 26 See Business is an English-language 522. Triglav C-2, Miklošičeva 19, tel. (+386) 1474 73 20. Real estate Abc Nepremičnine B-1, Tivolska 48, tel. (+386) business magazine covering the region 1300 00 00. Internet Cafés Agencia Zaloška 69, tel. (+386) 1521 15 65. CyberHP Café Citypark Šmartinska 152g, tel. (+386) Ljubljana Nepremičnine B-2, Cankarjeva 10, tel. of Southeastern Europe. 15 42 15 30. (+386) 80 81 81. Drog-Art C-2, Kolodvorska 20, tel. (+386) 14 39 72 70. Luster H-2, Tržaška 124, tel. (+386) 1200 49 54. Oton Zupancic Library C-1, Train Station,Trg OF 10, Royal Nepremičnine B-2, Cigaletova 5, tel. (+386) tel. (+386) 12 91 23 96. 1300 73 70. Xplorer C-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 23, tel. (+386) We publish exclusive reports 1430 19 91. Relocations Relocations Ltd H-1, Slovenska 34 (The Business from Southeastern Europe on: Lawyers Centre), tel. (+386) 40 51 78 20. Janez Pejovnik B-3, Slovenska 29, tel. (+386) 1200 Selitveni servis Repič H-1, Tesovnikova 47, tel. 76 86. (+386) 1565 69 50. - business, investment opportunities Odvetniška družba Mramor, Sorta, Bilić & Holec Vatovec C-2, Čufarjeva 5, tel. (+386) 1430 13 40. C-2, Komenskega 4, tel. (+386) 59 93 77 00. Odvetniška pisarna Miro Senica in odvetniki B-4, - market opportunities Barjanska 3, tel. (+386) 1252 80 00. Peter Mele odvetniška pisarna C-2, Resljeva 25, Media - the best companies in Southeastern Europe tel. (+386) 1430 04 61. Delo B-1, Dunajska 5, tel. (+386) 1473 77 00, info@ delo.si, www.delo.si. - banking, nance, stock exchange Ministries Dnevnik C-3, Kopitarjeva 2 & 4, tel. (+386) 1308 Agriculture, Forestry and Food H-2, Dunajska 58, 21 00, [email protected], www.dnevnik.si. tel. (+386) 1478 90 00. Pro plus J-1/2, Kranjčeva 26, tel. (+386) 1589 32 Culture D-2, Maistrova 10, tel. (+386) 1369 59 00. 00, [email protected], www.24ur.com. Defence H-1, Vojkova 55, tel. (+386) 1471 22 11. Radio Slovenia International Ilichova 33, Mari- Economy C-2, Kotnikova 5, tel. (+386) 1400 33 11. bor, tel. (+386) 2 429 92 79. Education and Sport C-2, Kotnikova 38, tel. (+386) Rtv Slovenija C-2, Kolodvorska 2, tel. (+386) 1475 1478 42 00. 21 11, [email protected], www.rtvslo.si. Environment and Spatial Planning H-2, Dunajska Samaritan Kolezijska 7, tel. (+386) 14 20 57 01. 48, tel. (+386) 1478 74 00. SEE Business Jesenkova 7, tel. (+386) 15 13 Finance B-2, Župančičeva 13, tel. (+386) 1369 66 10. 08 30. For more information please contact us: Foreign Affairs A-3, Prešernova 25, tel. (+386) 1478 Slovenian Press Agency B-1, Tivolska 50, tel. 20 00. (+386) 24 10 10, [email protected], www.sta.si. Health B-2, Štefanova 5, tel. (+386) 1478 60 01. Svet & Ljudje F-1, Peričeva ulica 17, tel. (+386) E-mail: [email protected] Higher Education, Science and Technology D-1, 1431 8170, [email protected], www. Kotnikova 38, tel. (+386) 1478 46 00. svetinljudje.si. Phone : +386 (0) 1 513 08 30 Interior B-2, Štefanova 2, tel. (+386) 1428 40 00. The Slovenia Times A-3, Trg Mladinskih Delovnih Justice B-2, Župančičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1369 52 00. Brigad 12, tel. (+386) 1520 50 84, info@slovenia- Fax: +386 (0) 1 513 08 31 Labour, Family and Social Affairs C-2, Kotnikova times.com, www.sloveniatimes.com. 5, tel. (+386) 1369 77 00. Web: seebusiness.eu

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see-naslovnica.indd 1 28.10.2009 14:33:54 92monolitmap_165_90_en.pdfBusiness 18.3.2009 0:47:20 directory Street register 93

Adamič-Lundrovo B/C-3 Gradaška A/B-4 Langusova A-4 Poljanski nasip C/D/E-3 Topniška D-1 Ajdovščina B-2 Grajska planota C-3/4, D-4 Lepi pot A-4 Poljedelska F-1 Tovarniška E/F-1 Ambrožev trg D-3 Gregorčičeva A/B-3 Levstikov trg B-4 Potočnikova E-3 Trdinova B/C-2 Aškerčeva A-3/4, B-4 Groharjeva A-4 Levstikova A-3 Potrčeva E-2 Trg Fr. revolucije B-3 Avčinova C/D-1 Grudnovo nabrežje B-4 Likozarjeva B-1 Povšetova E-3, F-2/3 Trg mladinskih del. brigad A-3 Barjanska B-4, H2/3 Gubčeva A-1 Linhartova H/J-2 Praprotnikova C-4 Trg OF C-1 Bavdkova F-1 Hacquetova D-1 Lipičeva D/E-3 Pražakova B/C-2 Trg Republike A/B-3 Bazoviška F-1 Hajdrihova A-4 Litijska cesta F-3, J/K-2, K-3 Prešernov trg B-3 Trnovska B-4 Beethovnova B-2/3 Hradeckega D/E/F-4 Livarska B-1 Prešernova A-2/3 Trnovski pristan B/C-4 Bernekerjeva E/F-1 Hrenova C-4 Maistrova D-2 Prijateljeva C-4 Trubarjeva C/D-2 C Bezenškova E/F-1 Hribarjevo B-3 Majaronova E-1 Prisojna D-2 Tržaška A-3, H-2/3,G-3 Bogišičeva A-4 Hrvatski trg D-2 Mala C-2 Privoz C-4 Turnsko nabrežje F-3 M Bohoričeva D/E-2 Igriška A/B-3 Malejeva F-2 Proletarska c. F-1/2 Ul. G. Delčeva F-2/3 Bolgarska D-1, E-1/2 Ilirska C/D-2 Malenškova E-2 Prule C-4 Ul. J. Husa F-2/3 Y Borštnikov trg A-3 Ižanska C/D-4, H-3 Malgajeva A-1 Prvomajska F-2 Ul. St. Pravde C/D-4 Breg B-3/4 Jakopičeva F-2/3 Mali trg C-2 Pugljeva F-2 Ul. Talcev C/D-4 CM C. 27. Aprila A-3 Jakopičevo sprehajališče A-1 Masarykova C-1, D-1/2 Puharjeva B-2 Večna pot G/H-2 Cankarjeva A/B-2 Jamova A-4 Medvedova A/B-1 Resljeva cesta C-2 Vegova B-3

MY Cankarjevo B-3 Janežičeva C-4 Mencingerjeva A-4 Ribji trg B-3 Veselova A-3 Celovška G-1, H-1/2 Japljeva E-2 Mesarska E-3 Riharjeva A-4 Vilharjeva cesta C/D-1, H/J-2

CY Celovška cesta A/B-1, B-2 Jenkova D/E-2 Mestni trg B-3 Rimska A/B-3 Vodmatska F-2 Cigaletova B/C-2 Jurčičev trg B-3 Metelkova D-2 Robbova C-1 Vodnikov trg C-3

CMY Cimpermanova C-4 Kajuhova J-2 Miklošičeva B/C-2 Roška cesta D-3/4 Vogelna B-4 Ciril-Metodov trg C-3 Karlovška cesta C-4 Mirje A/B-4 Rozmanova D-2/3 Vošnjakova B-2

K Čopova B-2/3 Karunova B-4 Močnikova E-2 Ruska A/B-1 Vrazov trg D-3 Črtomirova D-1 Kavčičeva E/F-1 Murnikova A-4 Salendrova B-3 Vrhovčeva D-2 Čufarjeva C-2 Kersnikova B-2 Nazorjeva B-2 Sketova E-1/2 Vrtača A-3 Dalmatinova B/C-2 Klunova F-2 Neubergerjeva D-1 Slomškova C/D-2 Vurnikova D-1 Dolenjska H/J-3 Knafljev prehod B-3 Njegoševa cesta D-2 Slovenska cesta B-2/3, H-2 Wolfova B-3 Društvena F-2 Koblarjeva E-2/3, F-3 Novakova D-1 Snežniška A-3/4 Za gradom C/D-4 Dunajska B/C-1, H-1/2 Kolezijska A/B-4 Novi trg B-3 Središka E/F-1 Zadobrovška K-1/2 Dvorakova B-2 Kolinska E-1 Ob Ljubljanici E/F-2 Stari trg B-3 Zaloška cesta D/E/F-2, J/K-2 Dvorni trg B-3 Kolodvorska C-2 Ob Zeleni jami E-1 Streliška C-3, D-3/4 Zarnikova D-3 Eipprova B-4 Komenskega C-2 Parmova B-1 Strossmayerjeva C-3 Združna F-2 Emonska B-4 Kongresni trg B-3 Partizanska F-1/2 Stritarjeva B-3 Zeljarska A-4 Erjavčeva A/B-3 Kopališka A-4 Perčeva F-1 Šlajmerjeva E-2 Zemljemerska D-3/4 Finžgarjeva A-4 Kopitarjeva ulica C-3/4 Peternelova B-3 Šmartinska E-1, J-1/2,K-1 Ziherlova B/C-4 JUNIJ 2008 Frankopanska A/B-1 Korytkova E-1/2 Petkovškovo nabrežje C-2 Štefanova B-2 Zoisova B-4 N1 1B 1S SHEMA LINIJ LPP Gallusovo B-3/4 Kosovelova F-2/3 Pivovarniška B-1 Štihova D-1 Zrinjskega C/D-4 MESTNI JAVNI LINIJSKI PREVOZ Gasparijeva E/F-2 Koširjeva F-3 Plečnikov trg B-3 Šubičeva A/B-3 Zvezna F-1 21 Glonarjeva E-3 Kotnikova C-2 Pleteršnikova B-1 Tabor D-2 Zvonarska C-4 14 14B 6B LPP MAP OF BUS ROUTES LJUBLJANA CITY PUBLIC TRANSPORT Gornji trg B/C-3, C-4 Krakovska B-4 Pod ježami E/F-1 Tavčarjeva B/C-2 Žabjak B/C-4

25 21 Gortanova F-3 Krakovski nasip B-4 Pogačerjev trg C-3 Teslova A-4 Železna C-1 Gosposka B-3/4 Krekov trg C-3 Pohlinova E/F-1 Tivolska cesta Žibertova A-1 Gosposvetska B-2 Križevniška B-4 Pokopališka F-1 A-2/3,B-1/2, H-2 Židovska B-3 Zapelji se na www.lpp.si 20Z Grablovičeva E-1/2, F-2/3 Kumanovska D-3 Poljanska C/D/E-3, H/J-2 Tomšičeva A/B-2 Župančičeva B-2

7L 11B N11 20Z

11B 27K Navje 25

N11 27K

7L 27 23 N1 N3 N5 Pod Kamno Gorico

Dalmatinova Zmajski most N5 Zmajski most

Krekov trg

23

Gornji trg

14B Kolezija

1B Orlova 1S Nedeljski sejem Dolgi most Rotar

Na Gmajnici

Pri Poku

The Dnevnik Building is truly a crime against architecture

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2009 - January 2010

98 Index

Adria Airways 11 Evangelical Church 60 Lar's Bar 50 Patrick Sport d.o.o. 72 South Africa (consulate) 90 AGIO rent a car 10 Eventim 24 La Storia 43 Peace Institute 90 South Korea (consulate) 90 Ahotel 31 Exhibition and Convention Latino Nightclub 58 Peko 68 Spain 90 Air France 11 Centre 23 Latvia 88 Peter Mele odvetniška Špajza 46 Ajda 44 Falafel 44 Lekarna Ljubljana 86 pisarna 90 Spin Vinyl Rock'n'Roll Ajdovo Zrno 46 FedEx 85 Lekarna Miklošič 86 Philharmonic 23 Ploščarna 70 Ambient 36 Femiks 86 Le Petit Café 48 Philippines (consulate) 88 STA 11 Andor 80 Festivalna Dvorana 23 Letni Vrt 76 Piano Bar 56 Stara Mačka 42, 50 Antikvariat 66 Figovec 45 Lev 28 Piranske Soline 69 Stari Tišler 34, 46 Antiq 30 Fit&Fun Center 27 Lic 90 Pizzicato 46 STA Travel Cafe 48 Apartments Kaninska Vas 76 Flat 67 Lili in Roza 68 Planica 78 Stevo 86 Aqua 69 Flea Market 70 Lithuania 88 Plato 40 Stil 32 Arena Vodafone live! - Gladiator Fluxus 36 Ljubljana airport 11 Plavalni klub Ilirija 27 Studio Christian 86 (BTC Center) 27 Foculus 44 Ljubljana Gay and Lesbian Plečnik House 64 Sunny 27 As 39 Fortuna 66 Film Festival 59 Pletilni Studio Draž 68 Supernova 72 Asdom Apartments 36 Foto Grad 70 Ljubljana Nepremičnine 90 Poland 88 Sushimama 38 As Lounge 52 Foto Maxi 70 Ljubljana Tourist Information Poljšak 82 Svet & Ljudje 90 Atet 10 Foto Tivoli 70 Office at the Railway Station Polna Skleda 40 Sweden 90 Atlantis Water Park 27 Fresco 38 24 Portugal 88 Switzerland 90 Austrian Airlines 11 Furla 67 Ljubljanček 69 Poslovni angeli Slovenije 88 Synagogue 62 Austria Trend 30 Gajo Jazz Club 56 Ljubljanski Dvor 40 Postojna Cave 65 Tanga 58 AutoRent 10 Galantes Wines 83 Ljubljanski Univerzitetni Pr' potic 46 Tao 11 Avant 10 Ganes Pratt 24 Inkubator 88 Premier Pub 57 Tartini Square 81 Avis 10 Goethe-Institut 23 LPP 9 Pri Mraku 32 Tax-Fin-Lex 88 Azur 34, 42 Gostilna Kovač 45 Lufthansa 11 Primus Group 88 Taxi Društvo Ljubljana 10 B&R Bar 76 Gostilna Lovec 45 Luka Gourmet Lunch Cafe 40 Pri Semaforju 48 Taxi Intertours 10 Babit 86 Gostilna Sovdat 76 Luster 90 Pristava Lepena 74 Taxi Laguna 10 Baby center 69 Gostišče Vančar 76 Luxemburg (consulate) 88 Pri Vitezu 42 Technoplus 11 Bachus 54 Gotour 76 Macedonia 88 Pri Vodniku 46 Tech Trade 88 Bachus Center 40 Gradiant 27 Maček 48 Pro-Eco 88 Tehnološki Park Ljubljana 88 Bangkok Street 37 Grajska Kavarna 48 Made in Slovenia 69 Pro plus 90 Terme SPA Rogaška 79 Bazilika Shop & Cafe 47 Grand Casino Ljubljana 52 Main post office 85 Protocol 10 TG Sportlife 27 Best Western Premier Slon 31 Grand Hotel Union Makalonca 50 Public Administration 90 Thailand (consulate) 90 Bi-Ko-Fe 49 Business 28 Malév 11 Publikum FIN 88 Thai Sabai 59 Biljardna Hiša 52 Grand Hotel Union Malta (consulate) 88 Puppet Theatre 24 The Business Center (Virtual Biosfera 27 Executive 28 Mandarina Duck 68 Puppet Theatre Clock 62 Office and Business Center) Bit Center Hotel 27 Grandvid 36 Manila Club 57 Q Cultural Centre 59 88 Bit Sport Center 27 Guinness Pub 57 Manna 40 Radgonske Gorice 83 The Slovenia Times 90 Boka Pension 74 Gymnasivm Sauna 59 Marella 68 Radio Slovenia International Thrifty 11 Botanical Gardens 65 H & M 67 Marina Yachting 72 90 TIC Bovec 74 Boutique Lacoste 67 Hala Tivoli 23 Marita 81 Raiffeisen Bank 88 TIC Kamnik 77 Bovška Hiša 76 Hard Core Cafe 58 Massage Corner 86 Railway Museum 65 Tine Express 85 Breskvar Tennis Academy 27 Hertz 10 Maxim 40 Recreational Center Tivoli 27 Tivoli Park 61 Brussels Airlines 11 Hotel Alp 74 Maxi Market 66 Red Cross 90 TNT Express 85 BTC City 70 Hotel Kanin 74 Max Mara 68 Red Shop 70 Tombstone Saloon 52 Budget Rent a Car 10 Hot Horse 44 McDonald's 44 Relax 11 Top: Eat & Party 48, 56 Bulgaria 88 Igloo Village Krvavec 77 Medno 34 Relocations Ltd 90 Tour AS 36 Bus station 10 Imperio Mexicano 43 Mehico 88 Restaurant 2000 38 Tourist Train 62 Café Galerija 49 InBox 55 Mehurček 86 Ribca 39 Train Station 9 Café Open 59 Institut Français 23 Melvita 66 Rio-Momo 38 Transport 90 Café Plato 47 Instituto Cervantes 23 Mencigar Nobile 45 Robbov Vodnjak 62 Trgovina Ika 69 Cankarjev dom 23 International Centre of Menjalnica AŽUR 88 Rogo Sport 72 Triglav 90 Cantina Mexicana 43 Graphic Arts 63 Mercator Center Ljubljana 72 Rollbar 50 Tromostovje 60 Cantina Simčič 82 Intersport 72 Mestna galerija 1 24 Romania 88 Turkey 90 Carrent 10 Istituto Italiano di Cultura 23 Mestna optika 86 Roundabout 11 Turkish Airlines 11 Casino Kongo 52 JAT Airways 11 Metelkova Mesto 24 Royal Nepremičnine 90 Tušmobil 85 Casino Lev 52 JB 40 M hotel 31 Rožna Hiša 42 UK 90 Casino Tivoli 57 Jeruzalem 83 Mič Styling 86 Rtv Slovenija 90 Ukraine 90 Cathedral 60 Joe Peña's 43 Midas 66 Rumeni Taxi 10 Ultimo Imerio 86 Celica 34 Jurman 40 Millenium 27 Running Sushi & Wok 38 Ultra 56 Center 34 K4 Roza 59 Mladinska Knjiga 66 Russia 88 Unicredit Banka Slovenija 88 Central 31 Kavalino 43 MM-konto 88 Rustika 69 University Medical Centre Central Market 70 Kavarna 1920 76 Mobitel 85 Salsoteca 27 Ljubljana 86 Central Pharmacy 86 Kavarna Maček Rooms 32 Mondial Travel 11 Samaritan 90 UPS Intereuropa 85 Čevljarski Most 60 Kavarna Tromostovje 48 Mons 30 Sarajevo '84 38 USA 90 Cha 48 Kavarna Union 24 Most 40 SAS Scandinavian Airlines 11 Vale Novak 66 China Fast Food 37 Kažipot 11 Motel Encijan 74 Sauna Zlati Klub 59 Valentinčič Tourism 83 City 31 Kino Dvor 23 Movia 54 Sax Pub 56 Valvasor 46 City Museum 63 Kinoklub Vič 23 Mrakič Apartments 76 Sečovlje Saline Nature Vatican 90 Citypark 72 Kino Šiška 23 Nama 67 Park 81 Vatovec 90 City Theatre 24 Kinoteka 23 Namasté 39 SEM Kavarna 48 Vegedrom 46 Collegium 11 Kipling Store 68 Narodna In Univerzitetna Separé Café 42 Velika Planina 65, 79 Čolnarna 48 Klub 12 57 Knjižnica 24 Shambala 38 Venera Shop 70 Conestoga 50 Klub300 27 National Drama Theatre 24 Simple, Ljubljana Vila Veselova 36 Contemporary History Klub K4 55 National Gallery 64 SUPERNOVA 86 Vinjeta 10 Museum 63 Klub Slon 58 National Museum 64 Sixt 11 Vinska Klet Goriška Brda 83 Črna Luknja 68 Klub SubSub 55 Nebotičnik 60 Skriti Kot 42 Vodafone Simobil 85 Čupiterija 50 KMŠ 55 Nobel Burek 44 Škuc Gallery 24 Vodnikov Hram 46 Cutty Sark 57 Knjižnica Otona Župančiča 24 Okrepčevalnica Petkovšek 48 Slaščičarna Pri Vodnjaku 48 Vom Second Hand 70 Cvetličarna Mediapark 23 Kobla Ski Center 77 Olimpija 44 Slon 42 Wine Bar Manzioli 80 Czech Airlines 11 Kodeljevo 27 Oliviers&Co 68 Slon Lounge 50 Wine Cellars of Slovenia 54 Delikatesa Ljubljanski Dvor 44 Kodeljevo sports park 27 Opera Bar 50 Slovenian National Opera Xplorer 90 Dolce & Gabbana Outlet 67 Kolosej 23 Orthodox Church 62 & Ballet Theatre 24 Žak 45 Dvorni Bar 54 Kompas 11 Orto Bar 55 Slovenian Tourist Information Žale Cemetery 60 Easyjet 11 Konex center 27 Österreich Institut 24 Center 60 Zeppelin 36 Emonec 34 Konkurenca 44 Otočec Castle 65 Slo Watch 72 Židana Marela 46 Emporium 67 Koželj 68 Out in Slovenia 59 Sobe Jana 36 Zlata Ladjica 52 En Pub 57 Kraljev Hrib 27 Paninoteka 44 Sokol 46 Zlati Most 38 Equrna 24 Križanke Open Air Theatre 24 Paprika 81 Sokol Group d.o.o. 27 Zlati Zob 56 Erzetič 82 KUD France Prešeren 23 Park 32, 36 Sokol Tivoli Fitness center 27 Zmajski Most 61 Escape 58 L'Occitane 66 Parma 44 Sonček 90 Žmauc 52 ESITI 24 Laguna Spa & Fun 27 Pasta Nona 43 Sončni studio body line 86 Zveza AIESEC Slovenija 90 Europcar 10 Lan 48 Patrick's Irish Pub 57 Sosed 88 Zvezda 48

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