Uzhgorod—memorial places of Jewish history.

Written by Sabina Viron (Uzhgorod, Ukraine).

The translation of this book is tribute to all Jews – adults and children, blessed to be their memory, of Subcarpathian region, who lost their life in Holocaust.

Translated from Russian by Tibor Weitzen

(Sydney, Australia).

2 Uzhgorod—memorial places of Jewish history.

A SHORT HISTORY OF UZHGOROD The best known of the first city founders are the Slavs. ian people. One of their tribes — White Croatians — settled the The beginning of the 19th century is characterized by area of the modern Uzhgorod in the second half of the the economic scope. There appeared the first factories in first Millennium AD. During the 9th century a fortified Uzhgorod. The greatest influence on Uzhgorod among castle changed into a fortified early feudal town- the political events of the 19th century was made by the settlement, which became the centre of a new Slavonic Hungarian revolution (1848-1849). March 27, 1848 was principality, at the head of which was a legendary officially celebrated in the city as the overthrow of the prince Laborets. monarchy in Hungary. In 1872 the first railway In 903 AD Hungarian tribes, headed by their leader Al- "Uzhgorod – Chop" began to work. mosh, stormed the Hungvar fortress. The forces were The First World War has slowed down the tempo of the not equal and Laborets was defeated. city development. In September 10, 1919 Subcarpathia After the arrival of the Hungarians, the small town be- was officially included into the structure of Czechoslo- gan to extend its borders. In 1241-1242 AD the Tatars vak Republic. Uzhgorod became the administrative cen- of Baty-khan burnt out the settlement. From 1318 and tre of the territory. Exactly in those times the city re- for 360 years long the Druhetts (Italian Counts) had ceived the modern architectural perfection. owned the town. During that period Philip Druhett But after the Viennese arbitration in 1938 Uzhgorod builds a new stone fortress on the place of the modern was transferred to Hungary. Till the end of 1944 the castle. Together with the castle the city began to grow. fights of the Second World War came close to Already in 1430 Uzhgorod acquired some privileges Uzhgorod. On October 27, 1944 the city was liberated from the King and is officially written “The Privileged by the troops of the Fourth Ukrainian Front. City of Uzhgorod” The liberation period brought the significant changes. During the 16-17th centuries there are existed many At the outskirts of Uzhgorod new enterprises are con- handicraft corporations in Uzhgorod. In that period the structed and the old enterprises are renewed. In 1945 city was engaged in the religious fight between Refor- Uzhgorod as the capital of Subcarpathian Ukraine be- mative Transylvania and Catholic Austria. In 1646 in came a member of the USSR. That year the Uzhgorod the Uzhgorod castle by the aegis of Vatican the State University was also opened. Since 1946 Uzhgorod Uzhgorod Union was proclaimed and the Greek- was the centre of newly formed Zakarpatska oblast. Catholic church was established in Subcarpathia. In Since 1991 Uzhgorod has become the regional centre of 1707 Uzhgorod was the residence of Ferenc II Rakoci, Ukraine the most western and the smallest one by popu- the leader of the national-liberation war of the Hungar- lation.

The map of the Centre of Europe.

3 Uzhgorod—memorial places of Jewish history.

ZHGOROD, the forefather of In each period of history condi- healing by faith – all this cre- Carpatho-Russian towns, tions of the Jewish life were de- ated un-precedent magnificence famed in legends, is extent pend which consideration of rul- to Besht. The number of his fol- on both banks of river Uzh. ers were on top priority: mate- lowers was growing. More than ten centuries of his- rialistic or ideological. At former All the knowledge worth noth- tory passed over this ancient – rulers safeguarded the Jews, ing and all prayers are useless, town. But what are the legends, in latter – Jews were perse- if their essence do not pene- and what is the truth? cuted. trate the depth of the soul – Uzhgorod always was a kind of Decree No.27 at 1867 granted says the Chasidic traditional Carpathian Babylon… Many of all citizens of Austro-Hungarian teaching. different peoples were dwelling Empire, including Jews, with full The Chasidic community of in this town. And since long ago civic and political rights, there- Uzhgorod built their Synagogue here were Jews too. fore this removed obstacles on and a Mikveh (ritual baths) at the road of adaptation of Jews By statistics reports of 1994, in 1908 on Rozhkovitch Quay in public life. This was to big Uzhgorod with total population (today it is the Independence advantage for Jews of Uzhgorod of about 120,000 residents, Quay). (Carpatho-Russian region was there were only 2200 Jews. But in that time the part of Empire) The Chassidic Synagogue, by not for all times it was so. too, where they hold the lead- the way, was a first reinforced The kings, princes, dukes, dy- ing positions in economic life of concrete building in the town. nasties and religions are replac- the town. Shabos… Chassids are wearing ing one by other and all of them “The Jew was indispensable and their traditional garments for were passing away into history. no one was equal to him” – this special day: black top hats, “Cuius regio, eius religio” (lat. wrote Ivan Olbracht, the Czech some have “straimel” – hat or- – “whose is authority, to his or- writer, in 1931 – “He [Jew] was namented with fur, long black der the religion”.) only the manager, only the fin- coat – “lapserdak”. In Shabos ancier. On the backdrop of to- one can not make out the Rabbi Chronicles and history books tal illiteracy he was the only from attendant in Mikveh. In are informing: the first Jewish man, who owned the informa- this day everyone must to think family in Uzhgorod was regis- tion, at least of economical about G-d, Who will bring Re- tered in 1575, the first Jewish character. He was needed.” demption. community – in 1724, and the o where we start our tour “I am L-rd, your G-d, or- around Uzhgorod from? dering you: Jews … build That’s it, from city centre, to yourself baths with pool from romantic Korzo Street, The coat of arms of where have been located a lot for 40 buckets of water. Uzhgorod – shield of Jewish shops and stands, Who want to be liked by and vine, war and signifying a blooming of little Myself – bath everyday, peace. Jewish burgeon. but lazy... shall bathe on Or maybe to start from Inde- Friday, once per week, be- first Synagogue was opened in pendence Quay (Naberezhnaja fore Sabbath. And women 1767. Nezavisimosti), where was shall bathe in the Mikveh Peter Sova, the historian of standing the Chasidic Syna- once per month…” Subcarpathia, wrote: gogue? “Properties were rented by Jews From story “Event in Mikveh” he Chasidic movement was and they paid to noble landlords by Ivan Olbracht, 1937. born in Ukraine. The foun- for dwelling and for tavern, der, Rabbi Israel ben Before Sabbath, Friday after- where Jews served beer, wine, Eliezer Baal Shem Tov noon the male part of the Jew- vodka and food yearly 600 gold (known as Besht), 1700-1760, ish congregation went to Mik- coins.” put the simple and sincere veh to immerse into its water: Since long ago the Jewish life “faith of the hearth” before a carpenter, a tailor, a shoe- here was seething. Rabbinic scholarly. Part of his maker, an ironsmith, and a rich life Besht spent in Carpathian merchant – in Mikveh all equal. Ethnographer Peter Kubijevich Mountains, supporting himself wrote in paper “Carpathian t the side of the right bank and his wife with hard physical Ukraine”: “The Jews are the of the river Uzh we arrive work of digging and selling the largest minority of Carpathian to Eugene Fence Square, clay for builders. There is a leg- Ukraine” In towns they are a where standing a remarkable end, telling that Besht meet quarter of the population, in vil- Synagogue in Mauritanian style Oleksa Dovbush – the Carpa- lages – 11%”. At 1933 in 100 with gorgeous portal and col- thian Robin Hood. Unprivileged, citizens of Uzhgorod were more umns. It was erected at 1904 persecutions and stories of than 23 Jews. (in year 2004 it was 100 years

4 Uzhgorod—memorial places of Jewish history.

Rabbi Israel ben Eliezer Baal Shem Tov (known as Besht), 1700-1760.

Korzo Street—the town centre—in years before World War II.

Chasidic Synagogue with Mikveh and with home of Shochet.

The Mikveh, in court of the Chasi- dic Synagogue, pictured in year 2000.

Chassids leavin g the Shul after prayer.

The Chabad House in Uzhgorod. Year 2001

5 Uzhgorod—memorial places of Jewish history.

Rabbinate of Uzhgorod before WWII. Orthodox Synagogue when built in 1904 with Rabbinate building visible on the left side.

Orthodox Synagogue on postcard.

Orthodox Synagogue on Eugene Fencik Square before WWII.

Soviets transformed this magnificent building into Philharmonic Hall in late 50’s of the XX century. Perhaps since then no craftsman touched the façade of one of finest Synagogues of Europe. Now this is a Bank

6 Uzhgorod—memorial places of Jewish history. old– Translator) and symboliz- this building was designed and teach them, then your ing Jews of Uzhgorod. This is built. sons will forever sit on one of the most beautiful Syna- At the present time in Uzhgorod your throne. gogues in Europe. Opposite of there are three Jewish Commu- the Synagogue is the building nities: Chabad, Progressive & (Psalm 132:12) of former offices of Rabbinate. Conservative Judaism. In beginning of the XX-th cen- he first school for boys was tury, when this Synagogue was Finding the solutions of the established by Jews of built, the Mauritanian style in problems created by contempo- Uzhgorod in, by some re- architecture was very fashion- rary society on the principles of cords, 1789 or by other – able in Europe. So this fashion Justice and Legality – are a ba- in 1792. The oldest survived has influenced the architectural sic postulate of Reform record about the first teacher design not only of the Syna- (Progressive) movement, were dated by 1835. In this year the gogue but the Jewish Cultural declared on Conference of Re- Jewish community of Uzhgorod Centre, Mikveh and some less form Rabbis in Pittsburgh at had established registry of important buildings. The archi- 1885. community staff, including tects of the synagogue were teachers. There recorded that Continuous development of the Gyula Papp and Ferencz “highly educated and perfectly Jewish traditions, Jewish educa- Szabolcs. trained” Leib was appointed tion, spirit of pluralism, and so- earlier as a teacher. His salary ets walk to Zhupanskaja cial justice, full equality of men was 70 Forints from community Ploshadj (Square), where and women, respect to fellow and 200 Forints by Jewish located the well preserved people – Jews and non-Jews – Council, also he [Leib] got a huge Synagogue, built by the these are principles declared by right for community provided “Neolog” Jewish Community. contemporary ideology of Re- housing. Leib got here from Mo- (Nowadays Neolog is called Pro- form Judaism. ravia and respectfully was gressive or Reform Judaism). The old commercial centre of called “Professor”. He was “In regard of worship, Jews of the town on both banks of river teaching Hebrew and German Subcarpathian Russ belong Uzh with their small shops, writing and reading. This first mostly to conservative stalls, restaurants and banks known Jewish teacher in (orthodox) movement, and so- mostly were occupied by Jews. Uzhgorod was much respected called “Neolog” (new direction) On many shop signboards and person. He died in 1848. Judaism was followed by few ads one could see a lot of the The Jewish school, teaching only, and mostly in large cities. Jewish names: Kalkstein, three grades, was opened in Jewish community of “Neolog” Freud, Stark etc… 1858.The records keep the Judaism along with orthodox ultural life in the town flour- names of founders and first exist in Uzhgorod only” – wrote ished, including the Jewish teachers: Weinberger, Cseter Dr. Henry Brody in 1924. part. There existed a Jewish [Cheter], Ganzfried, Reisman, he Reform movement in national cultural society; the Gotlieb, Chaim Kron. The school Judaism sprang up in Jewish theatrical society was good equipped. Teaching Europe at end of XVIII “Habima” staged not less than was in German and in Hungar- century. This name be- 40 plays in Yiddish language. ian as well. Fees were paid by come common to describe the parents and, partially, by com- he Jewish tradition always new movement, which sup- munity. Later the students are paid immense attention for ported dynamic development in learnt Hebrew. education of children and Judaism and it was an attempt youth. The religious education was to adaptation in order to re- provided by Jewish schools – ceive equal rights with mem- In book of Psalms there is a Cheders. bers of other confessions and saying “Let’s give to your young access to secular education. In- education to their level, so In 1878 in Uzhgorod were reg- formation about “Neolog” Com- growing older he never shall istered 702 Jewish children of munity in Uzhgorod begins at turn away”. school age. 201 of them were the end of XIX century. learning in Jewish schools, 256 Train a lad according to his – in schools of Jewish commu- In 1870 the Neologs built a manner; even when he nity and 242 boys attended huge Synagogue on former grows old he will not devi- Cheders only. Girls were edu- Zhatkovich Quay (today it is cated mostly at home. It is ate from it. Zhupanskaja Ploshadj). Until known, that in 60s of the XIX today this building perfectly (Proverbs 22:6) century there was a private preserved. Strict forms, almost school for girls, managed by without decorative details on If your sons keep my wife of teacher named Leisner. the facades presenting the clas- covenant and this testi- In school year 1911/1912 in sical style of architecture, which mony of mine that I shall was widespread in Europe when orthodox primary school of

7 Uzhgorod—memorial places of Jewish history.

“Neolog” Synagogue E ntrance to “Neolog” Tem on former Zhatkovich Quay ple from Zhupansk on banks of “Little Uzh” a Square. river. Year 1915.

The house of late Rabbi Falberman on Mukacsevskaja Street, the only Synagogue of Uzhgorod huddles on its backyard.

The Holy Arc at Eastern Wall of the only Synagogue of Uzhgorod.

The building of Radvanka Synagogue. Year 2001.

The Jewish Gymnasium, 2000.

8 Uzhgorod—memorial places of Jewish history.

Uzhgorod was enlisted 325 chil- seniors used to told, that in 167 teachers: dren (195 boys and 130girls). Kitchen the food was very good 9 – in Czechoslovak schools, but special prises were given Education of girls was mostly in 66 – in Russian, for famous very tasty Cholnt private school. Wealthy families 89 – in Hungarian and (traditional Shabbat stew) and sent their daughters for study 3 – in German… a lot of local students, knowing in Pest, Kosice, and Preshow. about this delicacy, come here “In private schools are working The first ladies school in to eat, since nobody checked 17 teachers only: Uzhgorod was open by Roman- your I.D. 4 - in Hungarian and Catholic church in 1859 – so 13 – in Jewish… called “Gizela Haus” (today it is At May 8th, 1919, the Central a music college). Teachers were People’s Council in Uzhgorod Number of Primary schools with Catholic nuns, but Jewish girls voted for decree in favour of Russian language teaching were welcomed. joining the Subcarpathian re- – 501 gion with Czechoslovak Repub- Czech - 35 First Jewish ladies school was lic. Hungarian - 122 opened at September 6th, 1905 German - 14 and contain 1st and 2nd grades At February 1920 Uzhgorod be- Jewish - 8 with total number of 44 stu- coming the capital city of the dents. region, which was named Statistical Yearbook of Czecho- “Podcarpathskaja Russ” and slovak republic, 1926” The founder of the first Jewish was the part of Czechoslovak Ladies school was Deborah It must be noted, that Jewish Republic. Szekely, who was born in children attended not Jewish Uzhgorod and died at 1911. What Jews gained from these schools only but other schools changes? as well. As it said in Pirkey Avot (5:21): “He used to say: At the age of Significant activities reflected in ast majority of the Jewish five, (one is ripe) for Bible; at community and political life, im- population of Uzhgorod ten, for Mishnah, at thirteen, proving the educational system, were occupied in little for mitzvoth; at fifteen, for Tal- began to grow the number of trades: repair and making foot- mud; at eighteen for the mar- Jewish intelligentsia. wear, tailors, blacksmiths, car- riage canopy; at twenty, for penters, and jewellers. There Professor Dr. V.Sook wrote in pursuit; at thirty, for vigour; at were hatters, bakers and cab- 1936: forty, for understanding; at bies. fifty, for counsel; at sixty, to be “In Podcarpathskaja Russ we 25 – 30% of the Jewish popula- an elder; at seventy, for grey see, that them [Jews} are busy tion were engaged in major and hair; at eighty, for strength; at not only in merchant and distri- minor commerce. ninety, to bend over; at one bution of goods…, but also do- hundred, as if he had died and ing the most important – all At beginning of 30s, the Czech passed away and disappeared crafts, which required for activi- Jewish footwear tycoon Bata from the world…”. ties of other citizens…, [they] had built next to Hotel “Corona” become an engine of the com- in centre of Uzhgorod the build- At the end of 20s – beginning munal production”. ing, which was known as “Bata of 30s of XX century on Vo- Passage”. Developing of mass loshin Street was erected three- One must to remember the ac- production of the footwear, storey building of the Jewish tive involvement of the Jewish which was prompted by Bata, Cultural Centre with school Committee (AJJDC) in Podcar- destroyed a lot of minor shoe- (nowadays this building accom- pathskaja Russ – with providing makers and actually ruined modates one of the faculties if credits for cooperatives and re- them. Now Bata manufactured Uzhgorod National University). pair of factories. The Commit- the footwear. Later there was built an addi- tee also studied the state of tion for Jewish bakery which economical affairs of Jews in Few Jews were employed in supplied all Jews of the Carpa- this region and thus provided government offices, in court thian region with matzos (now statistics about their activities. houses, a bit more were work- here is a student’s mess-hall). ing in health organisations, Extracts “From Report about schools, banks, cultural institu- In 1934 started the first enrol- teaching” tions. ment for Jewish Gymnasium. At “In primary schools of Podkar- 1936 there were two classes. There were wealthy people too pathskaja Russ are working 814 – owners of the brick factories, ot far from Gymnasium, government teachers, 41 of large stores, rental housing, where today is the whom are Czech language bakeries, different medium and (Russian) Orthodox Church teachers, 638 – Russian, 114 – small factories and workshops. Quay, in 1933 was built by Hungarian, 11 – German, 10 – American Joint (AJJDC) a Rumanian… Some factories are even today “Jewish Kitchen”. The town’s manufacturing the same goods “In no-government schools are

9 Uzhgorod—memorial places of Jewish history.

At left—the former “Gizela Haus”, today it is a music college at Voloshin Stree Postcard made at first half of XX t. century. It is present-day School No.4 at Zhupanskaya Square.

Postcard of School No.1.

School No. 3 at 30’s of XX century.

The for merly Jewish Cultural Centre with school. At presen t it is home of Faculty of History of Uzhgorod University, 2001.

10 Uzhgorod—memorial places of Jewish history. and products as it was by old At the present time the part of census of 1920 showed only owners. Brothers Michael and congregation of this Synagogue 3743 Jews. The dynamic of Izidor Weiser were owners of belongs to movement of Cha- these numbers is showing, that the flourmills on Mukacsevskaja bad Lubavitch. The founder of WWI affected population of Street, were today still the in- Lubavitch movement – Alte Uzhgorod including Jews. Cen- dustrial complex of the bread Rebbe, Rabbi Shneur Zalman sus of year 1930 counted 7534 backing and flour products. from Liad (1745-1813) http:// Jews at total population of zalman.org/tanya/ 26675 souls. At the beginning ets continue our journey. baalhatanya.htm – is a creator of 40s total population of the Here is an old footbridge of moral and ethic philosophical town is more than 30 thousand, above river Uzh. code “Tanya”. Chabad is an ac- the number of Jewish inhabi- Lets cross the bridge feasting ronym formed of the initials of tants was approximately 27%, our eyes on leafy panorama of Chochmah, Binah, Daat - wis- i.e. approx. 8000. the town and streaming river. dom, insight, and knowledge. About role of the Jews in politi- Its ideology seeks to create a Crossing the bridge we follow cal life wrote Dr. G.Brody at synthesis between Chassidism up to Mukacsevskaja Street to 1924: “Their political influence and Torah scholarship, and to only functioning orthodox Syna- is very significant. it’s because establish a fusion of the mysti- gogue in Uzhgorod. they are more intelligent than cal and the revealed aspects of their surrounding, they are fa- Today no property, except the the Torah. miliar with political situation Synagogue at Mukacsevskaja The basic saying in Lubavitcher even from newspapers… with- Street, belongs to Jewish com- Chassidut ethics, as said by out exaggerate we can state munity of Uzhgorod. Rebbe Shneur Zalman: “Each that one who pulled the atten- The modest house of late Rabbi person can and shall… make tion of Jews on himself – he is Falberman since the end of the good and to refrain from evil in pulling the attention of the WWII is in private ownership his mind, speech and action. whole population” and the old little Synagogue But in reality to have an aver- The fourth synagogue pre- huddles on its backyard. sion for evil – in that the person served in Uzhgorod is on not so imperious over himself, lmost one hundred years Ukrainskaja Ulitca [Street], but shall accustom himself to standing this Synagogue, which was attended by Jews of it”. absorbing history of Jews neighbourhoods of Radvanka in this town. Located on the We may to think about ourself and Bolotyn. street, which once was inhab- as being a perfect and talented dhering to chronology, we ited mostly by Jews, she is to- people, but there is coming a continue our tour along an- day the only Synagogue in moment of truth, when we ask cient Schwabskaya Ulitca Uzhgorod and of the whole dis- ourself what the meaning of our [Street] and turn onto Mina- trict up to city of Mukacsevo life. How to formulate the idea jskaja Ulitca toward the brick (Munkacs). Unfortunately, no- “what for” – “for sake of what factory, which belonged to body knows the fate of late we are in this world?” Moschkowitch brothers. And Rabbi Falberman, who once was Present-day leader and teacher where in Spring of 1944 was the owner of this Synagogue. of Chabad is Menachem-Mendel created the ghetto. From this It is early morning… Aged men Schneerson from Nikolajev very place our Jews were taken assemble for prayer. But in re- (1902 – 12.06.1994), who for- to Nazi death camps. cent years, as the sign of mod- mulate the universal idea of ap- To arrange deportation of Jews ern times, more and more peal to all people in the World of Uzhgorod there were setup young people attending the to lead virtuous and productive two ghettoes. The first one at Synagogue, even young chil- life. the brick factory of Moschko- dren. Before WWII in Uzhgorod witch brothers (at Minajskaja The Holy Ark – contain the To- were four Synagogues and Street) and the second one - at rah scrolls, decorated with five prayer homes (Stibels). a timber warehouse of Mr. wooden adornment – Aron Ha- Gluck (near to Railway uring XVII-XVIII centuries Kodesh… [Stancionnaja] Street). Jewish population of Here, inside in this holy place - Uzhgorod grow slowly. If From these ghettoes to certain there are blessed vivid mo- the written record of first Jew- death were sent some 14000 ments of association of the Jew ish family here was dated at Jews. These were not Jews of with G-d and there outside, on 1575, in 1769 there were re- Uzhgorod only, but from many the street - humdrum of every- corded only 93 Jews. In 1891 districts of Subcarpathia. day existence… were counted 3735 Jews when Here was the last shelter for total population of the town The mood in Synagogue recalls thousands Jews… Here started 11793 souls; at 1910 – 535 the pastime and calls to direct the last route to the death… Jews on 16919 inhabitants; one’s gaze into the future.

11 Uzhgorod—memorial places of Jewish history.

View on Hotel Corona from Korzo. The Ph armacy Shop No.1 on the left side.

ran- The busy and prosperous Korzo in t quil period between World Wars.

“Passage Bata”—o n right, “Kovacs & Rosenberg” pas- senger and fright ha ulage company (Fright shipping of- fices were at Radv anka). Hotel Corona behind of park-

were the No.71, Mukacsevskaja Street, where zidor Weise, flourmills of brothers Michael and I the bread today still the industrial complex of backing and flour products.

Postc ard from beginning of XX century.

12 Uzhgorod—memorial places of Jewish history.

theatre building. Old postcard of the footbridge with

View on footbri dge from left bank with theatre and synagogue on b ackground. Pictured around 1920’s.

of 50’s last Stalin Square pictured in beginning fi Square. century, now it has been named Petó

River Uzh, 2004.

s in Spring of Uzhgorod railway station where Jew from. 1944 were deported to death camps

13 Uzhgorod—memorial places of Jewish history.

More than 6000 Jewish citi- lived and worked in ( Pictures of tombstones with zens of Uzhgorod were mur- Uzhgorod, left an comments from site http:// dered by German Nazis. Until eternal footprint in www.judaica.kiev.ua/muzeum/ now there is no monument history of our land bazadann/Frameset.htm ) erected in town, where to peo- and of the Jewish In the quaint, intricate decora- ple would come to pay respect people. tive forms of tombstone carv- and remember our martyrs. The Jewish ceme- ings with plenty Here the railway station of teries of Uzhgorod are memori- abundance of little Uzhgorod – from its platforms als of perpetuity of Jews of this details one can see people were rounded up in to town. There are priceless Jew- influence of baroque cattle car boxes and trains ish necropolises, where remain taste of beginning of taken them away to death mazevos (tombstones) of XIX XIX century. camps. The whistle of the century, stellar-shape tomb- Stone carved steam locomotive pounds and a stones with plastica carvings, mazevos not just monuments – train with doomed load is going some of it more than two cen- they are part of Jewish national to nowhere… turies old. The old Jewish culture. Regrettably the wars, mazevos are usually carved in Photo of railway station with human ignorance hard stone, present- caption “Uzhgorod railway sta- and, often, simply ing the spiritual es- tion where thousands of Jews vandalism caused a sence and personal were loaded into cattle trains huge damage to our merits of person bur- and taken to death camps” heritage, but some ied here. By Jewish of these are kept in- Prior of Nazis deportation in custom no sculpture tact. Nameless Subcarpathia reside approxi- or picture of person craftsmen animated mately 140,000 Jews. After end allowed – this was strictly for- the stone, left their art to future of the WW II returned home bidden, especially in Jewish generations. some 7,000 only. cemetery. But we can find here plenty of the cult symbols. Very e are standing on lawn, ame of Uzhgorod (Ungvár) often we can find here meno- here stands alone a high has been written in history rahs (of three, five or seven matzeva to Rabbi with of Judaism forever. Jewish candles) as symbols of woman’s following epitaph: sages – the great thinkers, who godliness, piety connected to focussed their lifelong efforts “Rebbe [the Teacher] – a true mitzvah of candle lighting; pair for comments and interpreta- genius, be known in every of blessing hand palms when tion of Torah. Among those country. He created books of parted fingers are showing two wise men - Rebbe Shlomo cosmic importance. In our im- letters “shin” – this person be- Ganzfried, who wrote in 1864 perfect universe he was a pure longed to “cohanim”. The carv- the book “Kitzur Shulchan Tzadik [Righteous Person]. ing of the Jug told that man be- Aruch”- the abridged Code of Shlomo Ganzfried son of Reb longed to tribe of Jewish life: how to Jew to be- Josef… Be his soul for eternity.” “Levy” – “levyim’ have, how to pray, how to fulfil were serving in The carved picture on his mitzvoth (commandmen-ts), Holy Temple. Some matzeva presenting the major how to live every day, in week- tombstones orna- craft of Rabbi Shlomo: writing days, at Shabos and Holidays, mented with crown, hand with pen telling about his how to keep traditions of Jewish telling that this per- Heavenly purpose. He created a life… son got a high des- book which today is a world fa- ( Kitzur Shulchan Aruch - Concise tiny – so he was crowned. De- mous – a unique monument of digest of halacha by R. Shlomo Gan- piction of lion pointed up to Jewish culture. name Leib (Ariye), red deer – zfried (Hungary, 1804-1886). R. The two Jewish cemeteries of to name Girsh (Tzvi), bird – for Shlomo intended his work for use by Uzhgorod are the place of reli- woman’s name Feigele laymen and therefore did not cite gious pilgrimage. (Tzipora), fishes – man’s name sources for his rulings. He also did Jews from many Fischl… This cemetery contains not include those halachos that had countries coming to a lot of tombstones decorated no practical application to most peo- pray on graves of with Crowns. Pictures, present- ple. The Kitzur Shulchan Aruch be- their ancestors and ing the floral themes are hinting came an immensely popular work righteous people. In on fruitfully activi- Jewish tradition – soon after its publication due to its ties of the person. the prayer on grave- clear and precise presentation of ha- Most of carvings are site of Tzadik brings on a spe- lacha. It has been updated by a num- showing very high cial power. ber of authors to include those hala- craftsmanship and chos applicable in Israel. ) impress with beauti- Here also stands symbolical Rebbe Shlomo Ganzfried, who ful compositions. memorial tombstone to Jews

14 Uzhgorod—memorial places of Jewish history.

The “Kitzur Shulchan Aruch” compiled by Rabbi Shlomo Ganzfried was first published in Uzhgorod in 1864. Here is the front page of the book, translated to Hungarian, published in Budapest in 1935.

Tombstone on Rabbi Shlomo Ganzfried grave (1804-1886). Pictured at 2000.

Cenotaph to sol- diers fallen in WWI near to Radvanka ceme-

Memorial to martyrs of Holocaust in Uzhgorod Jewish cemetery, erected in 1996 by donation from Mr. Laci Reisman.

Uzhgorod Jewish cemetery. Pictured at 2000.

15 Uzhgorod—memorial places of Jewish history. perished in Holocaust. It was vegetation here and there scat- gether at common place of liv- erected in 1996 by donation tered all around old broken ing they can not exist ones from Mr. Laci Reisman, who mazevos, some with carved without others” – such state- also was citizen of Uzhgorod texts, and some with Judaic ment about Jews in Subcarpa- and now lives in Ramat Gan, symbols: two open hand palms, thia left by Ivan Olbracht, world Israel. lions, candles… Here is some famous author, son of Czech stones with readable names: father and Jewish mother “Remember and not forget. In “Righteous man with wise heart (1882-1956). Uzhgorod, in past named Ung- Tzvi Meyer”, “Menachem Ari”, vár, 14 thousand Jews of the In March 1931 Ivan Olbracht “Friedman Solomon (1837- town and its outskirts were de- visited Subcarpathia. There still 1918)”, “Rosenstein Abraham ported to Auschwitz. This his apartment in Uzhgorod at son of Aaron”… monument is erected for mem- No.12 Ivan Olbracht Street ory of our dear who perished in We are descending from the top transformed into Museum. Holocaust” – we read the epi- of the cemetery’s hill. And here Most of his time in Subcarpathia taph on the commemorative we see an exceptional monu- Ivan Olbracht stayed in village plaque. ment of the WW-I. This country Kolocsava (180 kilometres from many times, during its long his- ncestors of present-day Uzhgorod). He wrote a great tory, was an amphitheatre of Jews of Subcarpathia wit- number of stories, which were cruel battles. At autumn and nessed and experienced acquainting us with the life of winter of years 1914 -1915 a many of historical events that Jews of that period of time. lot of battles happened here be- happened in this country. Without these accounts we sim- tween Austro-Hungarian and ply never would know about How we arrived on Radvancz Russian armies. A dozen of that distant world. His writing Hill. monuments left in Subcarpathia was truthful and realistic and as remembrance to soldiers, In IX – VII centuries B.C. on since very few written docu- fallen during WW-I, one of the territory of contemporary ments are left of that era, that monuments is staying in Rad- Uzhgorod were created two set- why we so often refer to his vanka cemetery. The plaque on tlements: one on the Castle testimonies. monument inscribed in Hungar- (Zamkovaja) Hill, and second – ian the names of fallen soldiers ews always had what to say on Radvancz (Radvanskaja) and officers, and between these to the world. Perhaps that Hill. Historian of Subcarphatia names a lot of Jewish sur- why so many Jewish teach- Jakov Schternberg dated the names: Jacob Bloom – private, ers, painters, poets, writers first settlement on Radvancz Jacob Kleisner – private, and musicians are known and Hill to year 1363. The names of Schwartz Gyula – first class pri- remembered around the world settlement were changing: Ra- vate (Schwartz Gyula was a and across the times. And there dovanch, Radvanj, Rodvanz, maternal uncle of my deceased no exceptions in this region of Radvanka etc. father – Translator). the world – the Jews gave the In 1828 in Radvanka were 108 talents and genius of their sons At dawn of 40-s of XX century house holds with 472 habitants, and daughters as a big gift to there were 1402 Jews in Rad- 138 of those were Jews peoples of Subcarpathia, pro- vanka, their Rabbi was Mayer (29.2%). In 1869 there were moting this country among na- Katan and there was a syna- already 323 Jews. tions of the world. We proudly gogue we mentioned earlier. can mention names of such art- The size of Jewish congregation This village was a real multina- ists as painters G.Gluck and in Radvanka was second after tional settlement of working M.Roskin, writers M.Teveljov Greek-Orthodox. class people serving the needs and F.Krivin, scientists of neighbouring Uzhgorod: And so centuries passed over J.Sternberg, N.Aisenberg, shoemakers, locksmiths, butch- Radvanka. G.Kotiljanski, A.Rot, F.Dvorcin, ers, balagoles- horse and cart S.Margolin, A.Turkstaulb, he very old cemetery, owners, tailors, bakers, medics, O.Podrazhanski… where the Jewish citizens waiters… There known the of Uzhgorod and Radvanka name of the owner of local ho- Alas, the history was cruel to had been buried, is situ- tel – Zoltan Klain. Most of Rad- Jewish cultural heritage in Sub- ated behind of the Christian vanka’s Jews shared the dread- carpathia. First – the Holocaust, cemetery, and it is a very old ful fate the rest of the Jews of and then – the Soviets between one. Uzhgorod – they fallen as mar- 40s and 90s of XX century de- tyrs in Holocaust. stroyed or removed from peo- The time and humans almost ple’s sight almost everything destroyed the old cemetery “Here are living… the Jewish that had belonged to a Jewish which now is covered by over- tradesmen and Jewish small rich legacy. We hope very grown lush weeds and sur- merchants, poor Jews and rich much, that remains of this af- rounded with collapsed stone Jews, poor Rusins and very fluent heritage will be discov- fence. In between of the wild poor Rusins… Tightly knit to- ered and restored from ashes

16 Uzhgorod—memorial places of Jewish history.

highlight in our memory and the Temple Sanctuary and its consciousness what is dear to environs): "Why does your G-d, Jewish people and we hope we being the lover of the needy, will continue our journey into not Himself provide for their past, assuming that the idea to support?", R. Akiba replied: "By restore and keep the memories and history of Subcarpathian charity wealth is to be made a Jews is not hopeless. means of salvation; G-d, the Father of both the rich and the Monuments are quiet witnesses poor, wants the one to help the and reminders of the history. But today, thanks G-d, there other, and thus to make the still live witnesses too. Among world a household of our ancestors were different love" (Bava Batra 10a). people: some - volatile, some - "Blessed is he that considereth righteous, some - fulfilled their the poor; the Lord will deliver purpose in this world, and him in time of trouble." many of them were martyrs for Kiddush Hashem. The acts of charity were always distinguishing feature of Jewish Ivan Olbracht (1882-1956) emembering the past, let people. say some words about pre- sent days. “Chessed Shpira“ offers help to all in need, assists to restore Today the Jewish life is re- and we will know the names of the Jewish traditions, culture incarnating at Ukraine. people of past and their and encourages people to be achievements. Following decision of the Con- involved in community life. ference of leaders of Jewish or- There is a saying that towns are Let’s remember, that only our ganisations and communities in having a soul. If you are walk- acts of charity have significance Subcarpathia, along with sup- ing along the old streets of and only our good deeds are port of “Joint” The American Uzhgorod you almost can hear important in this world! Jewish Joint Distribution Com- a whisper of voices of the peo- mittee - (AJJDC) there was es- ple who gone. tablished the charity fund The old buildings are remaining “Chessed Shpira”. us the living history of the peo- “Chessed” translated from He- ple. brew is - care, charity Telling the story about memo- “Shpira” – rial places of the Jewish history Chaim Lazar we almost did not discuss their Shpira - the architectural significances. Rabbi of Every such a building contains Munkacs at some expression of the style of 30s of XX its specific time, however com- century was bines the best achievements of world famous the world art and fashion and keeper and the Jewish traditions and heri- follower of tage at same time. And there Chassidic tra- are also the beautiful river- ditions. Care, banks and bridges over the charity and river Uzh, abundance of old help – this is parks and gardens… the core ac- The history of Jews in this re- tivities of this gion of Europe was like a long Fund. journey along unlit and winding As in Proverbs is stated -“one The team of “Chessed Shpira” in road… who tends to charity will find a Uzhgorod. It is very important and signifi- good name”. cant for us to remember every- thing what happened in this When asked by Tinnius Rufus journey. (the evil Tinnius Rufus, was the Roman governor of Judea dur- We went on the pat trying to ing the rule of emperor Ha- shed a light on the past of our drian, at 132 A.D. plowed up people with tiny ray of light, to

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