Doživjeti Osebujni Grad... Experience a Peculiar Town

WELCOME TO RIJEKA Broj / Issue 6 | LIPANJ / JUne 2012 | Godina / Year 3 Nije za prodaju / Not for sale

Festival mora / Sea festival Barke, lađe, brodovi... Boats, ships, vessels... Specijalitet / Specialty Pršut i bura Morčić Riječki srećonoša s Kvarnera Rijeka's good luck charm Prosciutto and bora from the Kvarner

Tema broja / This edition theme Doživjeti osebujni grad... Experience a peculiar town...

6. Uvodnik / Editorial Tema broja / This edition theme 8. Doživjeti osebujni grad... Experience a peculiar town... 16. Intervju / Interview Ivan Ljubičić

Novi grad / New City 20. Veseli zidovi riječki Cheerful Rijeka’s walls 28. Kvarnerski podvodni muzej potopljenih brodova Kvarner’s underwater museum of sunken ships 32. Morčić- riječki srećonoša Morčić – Rijeka’s good luck charm 36. Riječki hosteli – omiljeni smještaj mladih i onih koji se tako osjećaju Rijeka hostels - favourite accomodation place of youth IMPRESSUM and those who feel young 38. Šta da? NAKLADNIK / PUBLISHER Really? Hand Press d.o.o. J.Trdine 2, 51 000 Rijeka 40. Plaža za pse na Kantridi e-mail: [email protected] Dog beach on Kantrida UREDNIČKI KOLEGIJ / EDITORIAL BOARD 42. Barke, brodovi, lađe... Petar Škarpa, Lea Stoiljković Medved, Ljiljana Mamić Boats, ships, vessels... Pandža, Velid Đekić, Igor Rivetti, Sandra Ivanišević Oblici vremena IZVRŠNI UREDNIK / EXECUTIVE EDITOR 48. Sandra Ivanišević Shapes of time GRAFIČKI UREDNIK / ART DIRECTOR 50. Rijeka foto festival Marijan Baćac The Rijeka Photo Festival NOVINARI / JOURNALISTS 52. Olimpijski duh živi u Rijeci Velid Đekić, Ljiljana Mamić Pandža, Igor Rivetti, The olympic spirit lives in Rijeka Larry Ambrozich, Lidija Šušak, Andrea Bralić Marić, Mašenka Vukadinović, Sanja Krmpotić, 54. Bazeni tik uz more Branka Malnar, Valentino Benčić, Danijel Frka, Swimming pools right by the sea Loreta Parkelj, Silvija Vidović, Barbara Cakar 56. Kantrida, Rijeka UREDNIK FOTOGRAFIJE / PHOTO EDITOR Kantrida, Rijeka Rino Gropuzzo Sat vremena od Rijeke / Just an hour from Rijeka MARKETING Hand Press d.o.o. 58. Šetnjom do dobrog raspoloženja e-mail: [email protected] Walking in order to achieve a good mood PRIJEVODI / TRANSLATION Tako je nekada bilo / Once upon a time Prolingua-Ri d.o.o. 61. Carpathia, krenula u Rijeku i završila u povijesti TISAK / PRINTED BY The Carpathia, which left for Rijeka and finished in history WEB2PRINT d.o.o., Zagreb Zoom NAKLADA / EDITION 64. Egon Hreljanović 4000 kom 68. Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - Events ISSN 1847-5019 Slasni kutak / Tasty corner Izlazi dva puta godišnje Published twice a year 73. Pršut i bura s kvarnera Prosciutto and bora from the kvarner Časopis je realiziran u suradnji s Turističkom zajednicom grada Rijeke 76. Svjetska poslastica iz plavoga mulja Kvarnera This magazine was launched in A world delicacy from the blue Kvarner mud collaboration with the Rijeka Tourist Board 82. Kako nas drugi vide / As others see us 8.

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Uvodnik Još je jedno ljeto pred nama, još jedan broj Welcome to Ri- Ronioci i obožavatelji plavih dubi- jeka sa člancima koji će vam na u izvrsnom članku našeg roni- pomoći da odaberete ono što oca i podvodnog fotografa Dani- Imate li ljubimca koji vam je vam je po volji. Jer Rijeka nudi jela Frke mogu doživjeti brodove društvo i na odmoru, Rijeka ima mnoge sadržaje u narednim koji odavno leže na dnu mora. plažu i za njega: ništa nije pre- mjesecima. Na Kvarneru nije zaboravljena pušteno slučaju. U temi broja opisujemo Rijeku tradicionalna gradnja drvenih U nizu članaka želimo vam da okom kreatora City Break pa- brodica, o čemu govori tekst se osjećate kao kod kuće i da keta. Poželite li doći u naš grad Branke Malnar. Ako više volite uživate u našem gradu kao što na tri dana, vjerujte, biti će to šumu i svježi zeleni mir, tada će uživamo i mi, svaki dan!. dinamična, zabavna i sadržajna vam članak o šetnicama u oko- tri dana. lici Rijeke biti dobar putokaz. Uredništvo 7 Editorial Another summer is ahead of All diving enthusiasts and lovers us, another edition of Welcome of the blue depths can experi- to Rijeka with articles that will ence the ships that have lain on help you to choose all that you the sea bed since ancient times desire. As Rijeka will be offering by reading the excellent article numerous events in the coming written by our diver and under- months, the main theme of this sea photographer, Danijel Frka. edition describes Rijeka thro- The Kvarner region has not for- ugh the eye of the City Break gotten the traditional construc- package. If you would like to tion of wooden boats which is visit our town and stay here explained in the text written by for three days, believe it or not, Branka Malnar. If you prefer wo- they will be three dynamic, en- odlands and fresh, green peace, tertaining and eventful days. a good guide post will be the article which talks about the footpaths in Rijeka’s surroundings. If you have a pet that you would like to take on holiday too, Rijeka has a beach for him as well: nothing has been left to chance. All these articles are designed to make you feel at home and to help you enjoy our city as we do, day after day! Editorial board 8 Tema broja / This edition theme Piše / Written by: Mašenka Vukadinović

Rijeka postaje sve popularnija City Break destinacija Rijeka is becoming a more popular City Break destination Doživjeti osebujni grad… Experience a peculiar town... 9 Piše / Written by: Mašenka Vukadinović 10

Rijeka je uistinu grad koji na jedinstven način spaja staro i novo. Doživjeti i upoznati Rijeku teško je bez njezine prošlosti. Kre- ćete li iz smjera Zagreba, umjesto autocestom krenite polako, uživajući u prirodnim ljepotama, putevima izgrađenim u doba Austro-Ugarske: Lujzijanom i Karolinom. Bile su to najsuvre- menije ceste 19. stoljeća. Upoznat ćete grad industrijske baštine. Grad torpeda. Prvoga u svijetu! I grad karnevala. Kao što Rio de Janeiro ima sambu, u Rijeci ćete zaplesati "potresujku", zabavni lokalni ples, jedini takve vrste na svijetu! Tražite li mir i utjehu? U Gradu zaštitnika, Svetoga Vida, posjetite njegovu katedralu ili se uspnite trsatskim stubama do naj- starijega marijanskog svetišta. Bilo da ste u Rijeci prvi puta ili svakodnevno šećete njezinim uli- cama, vodimo vas u šetnju riječju i slikom. Jer, puno je razloga zašto zavoljeti ili ponovno se zaljubiti u ovaj grad.

Istraživanje Rijeke uz laptop Neka vaše prvo odredište bude najprije glavno šetalište i popri- šte gradskoga života - riječko Korzo. U samom središtu grada, osvježite se na nekoj od gradskih terasa. Zamolite konobara da vam natoči i čašu vode iz slavine – riječka voda poznata je po svojoj kvaliteti i okusu. Promotrite zanimljiva pročelja na riječkome Korzu, među kojima su i vrijedne barokne zgrade. Iz vremena kada je Rijeka bila opasana bedemima dominira riječki simbol - Gradski toranj sa

Rijeka really is a city that in its own unique way combines both old and new. To experience and get to know Rijeka is difficult without knowing its past. If you are coming from the Zagreb direction, rather than taking the highway, take the slow road and enjoy the natural beauties, the roads built during the Austro-Hungarian Empire: Lujzijana and Karo- lina. These were the most advanced roads of 19th century. You will encounter a town with an industrial heritage. The town of the Torpedo. The first torpedo in the world! And a Carnival town. As Rio de Janeiro has samba, in Rijeka you will dance "potresujka", a local entertaining dance, the only one of its kind in the world! Are you looking for peace and consolation? In the city whose patron is St Vitus, visit its cathedral or climb the Trsat steps that will bring you to the oldest Marian shrine. Whether you are in Rijeka for the first time or you walk along its streets every day, we would like to take you for a walk with words and pictures. Since, there are many rea- sons to fall in love with or to rediscover this city.

Researching Rijeka with laptop Let your first destination be the main promenade and the heart of town life – Rijeka's Korzo. Right in the city centre, refresh yourself on one of the city's terraces. Ask a waiter to pour you a glass of tap water – Rijeka water is known for its quality and taste. 11 satom. Nakon što grad doživite na prvi pogled - upalite laptop. Observe the interesting facades on Rijeka’s Korzo, among Spojite se na besplatnoj WiFi lokaciji i iskoristite online vodiča which you will find valuable Baroque buildings. From the da vam ukaže na lokalne običaje, kuriozitete, gradske znameni- time when Rijeka was surrounded by defense walls the tosti…Riječko Korzo, Stari grad i lukobran ugodni su za šetnju symbol of Rijeka dominates the city - The City clock tow- zbog brojnih zanimljivih prizora, a i zato što gotovo uopće nema er. Once you have experienced the city first hand - turn on uzbrdica. A gradske konobe i restorane iskoristite za predah. your laptop. Connect yourself to the free Wi-Fi location and use the online guide to show you the local customs, Foto-safari riječke industrijske baštine curiosities, city sights ... Rijeka's Korzo, the Old town and Jedinstveni su prizori koje fotoaparatom možete zabilježiti še- the pier are pleasant for walking thanks to the many inter- tajući se brojnim tragovima industrijske baštine. Da vam pri- esting scenes, and because it is almost totally flat. Moreo- bližimo nekadašnju industrijsku moć Rijeke: nekada je u gradu ver, the city's taverns and restaurants are an ideal place to postojalo na desetke najrazličitijih pogona. Proizvodili su se take a break. strojevi, jedra, užad, svijeće, papir, naftni derivati, duhan, šećer, čokolada, namještaj, skije, led, riblje konzerve, pića, opeka, ke- Photo-safari of rijeka's industrial heritage ramičke pločice, kemijski proizvodi, električna energija, asfalt, unique are the scenes that the camera can record when oružje, odjeća, žigice itd. Mnogo toga više ne postoji jer se Rije- walking along the numerous tracks of our industrial her- ka iz industrijskoga, pretvorila u grad urbanog turizma. Samo u itage. Let us take you closer to Rijeka's former industrial Rijeci možete šetati nekadašnjom tvornicom papira Hartera, u power: once there were a dozen very different factories in kojoj se danas održava poznati glazbeni festival, a 1833. je u rad this town. Here machines, sails, ropes, candles, paper, pe- pušten prvi parni stroj u ovom dijelu Europe. troleum products, tobacco, sugar, chocolate, furniture, skis, ice, canned fish, drinks, bricks, ceramic tiles, chemical Grad torpeda. Prvoga na svijetu! products, electricity, asphalt, weapons, clothing, matches U Rijeci je 1860-tih konstruiran i proizveden prvi svjetski torpe- etc. were manufactured. Much of the aforementioned no do. Ubrzo je Rijeku i njezinu industriju stavio u žarište zanima- longer exists as Rijeka has transformed from an industrial nja svih najvažnijih svjetskih pomorskih sila. Riječka tvornica city to a city of urban tourism. Only in Rijeka can you walk torpeda i njezin originalni proizvod postali su ubrzo glavni ri- around the former Hartera paper factory, which today is a ječki izvozni artikl. To je gotovo pola stoljeća bio najveći tehno- place where a famous music festival is held whilst in 1833 loški i komercijalni uspjeh, proizvod na koji su bili ponosni svi the first steam engine in this part of Europe was put into građani Rijeke. Godišnji proizvodni kapacitet ove tvornice bio je operation here. 12 otprilike 1000 torpeda. Svjedok svega toga je do danas sačuvana The town of the Torpedo. The first in the world! lansirna rampa torpeda iz 1930-ih, svjetski primjer industrijske The world's first torpedo was constructed and built in Ri- baštine. jeka in 1860s. Soon it put Rijeka and its industry into the spotlight of the world's most important maritime powers. Putevima višestoljetnog pomorstva i brodogradnje Rijeka’s torpedo factory and its original product quickly Na toj dugoj tradiciji nastala je i riječka luka. A na lukobranu je became a major export item for the city. This technologi- najljepše doživjeti Rijeku s mora. Osim ako nisu na pučini, tu cal and commercial success lasted for almost a half of a cen- ćete sresti i pokojeg riječkog ribara na privezanoj koči ili pliva- tury, the product of which all citizens of Rijeka were proud. rici. Šetnicom dužine gotovo 2 kilometra promotrite reprezen- The annual production capacity of this factory was around tativan niz zgrada duž rive. Iz 19. su stoljeća, razdoblja kad je Ri- 1000 torpedo. Proof of all that today is the preserved tor- jeka bila velika i moćna trgovačka luka. Početkom devedesetih pedo launching ramp from the 1930s, the world example of dolazi do propasti industrije, no ostaje pažnje vrijedno nasljeđe. industrial heritage. Na lukobranu će vam zasigurno pažnju privući stare lučke diza- lice. Pogled se pruža i na jedinstvena lučka skladišta s obilježji- Over the centuries old paths ma mađarske secesije. Svojedobno je riječka luka zauzimala 10. of seafaring and shipbuilding mjesto među europskim lukama, iza Amsterdama i ispred Ve- The Rijeka port was established on that long tradition. And necije. U današnjoj modernoj luci, ti romantični tragovi prošlo- being on the Rijeka pier is the most beautiful way to experi- sti podjsećaju na mukotrpan rad mnogih Riječana, zahvaljujući ence Rijeka from the sea. Unless you are on the open sea, kojima je Rijeka bila posvuda prepoznata kao lučki grad. here you can meet Rijeka fisherman tying up their trawlers or gillnets. From the almost 2 kilometer long promenade Tajna veza Rijeke i Titanica take a look at the representative number of buildings along U Rijeci se nalazi i jedini u Europi sačuvan prsluk za spašavanje the waterfront. These are from the 19th century, a period s Titanica. Naime, Rijeku i slavni parobrod Titanic izravno po- when Rijeka was a large and powerful trading port. In the vezuje brod Carpathia koji je plovio na liniji New York - Rijeka, early 1990s, industry collapsed, but a valuable heritage wor- a spašavao je preživjele brodolomce s Titanica. Riječanin Josip thy of attention remained. The old harbour cranes on the Car na Carpathiji je bio konobar, a sačuvani prsluk za spašava- breakwater will surely attract your attention. The view also nje darovao je Pomorskom i povijesnom muzeju Hrvatskog extends to the unique port warehouses with characteristics 13

of the Hungarian secession. Once the Rijeka port was in 10th position amongst all European ports, after Amsterdam and before Venice. In today's modern port, these romantic traces of the past are a reminder of the hard work of many people of Rijeka, thanks to which Rijeka was recognized far and wide as a port city.

The secret relationship of Rijeka and the Titanic rijeka is home to the only lifejacket from the Titanic to be preserved in Europe. Rijeka and the famous steamship Ti- tanic are directly connected by the Carpathia, a ship which sailed en route from New York to Rijeka and which saved a number of castaways from the Titanic. Rijeka citizen, Josip Car was working as waiter on the Carpathia, and gave the preserved lifejacket to the Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral, situated in the famous Rijeka Gov- ernor's Palace. The Museum will provide you with many valuable exhibits; it will tell a story about seafaring and shipbuilding in the Kvarner region in the best possible way, from prehistoric to modern times.

Luck bringer – Rijeka’s Moretto look for the Moretto in Rijeka galleries or jewelleries. A souvenir from Rijeka with a black head and a white turban, that is usually found in jewellery shops, and was once brought by only sons, sailors (worn in the right ear) as well as fishermen as a form of protection. The legend about its origin goes back to the 16th century, when Rijeka citizens, 14 primorja, smještenom u slavnoj riječkoj Guvernerovoj palači. allegedly, beat the Ottomans on the Grobnik field and to Muzej će vam s mnogobrojnim vrijednim eksponatima najbo- remind themselves of that feat, they ordered Moretto ear- lje ispričati priču o pomorstvu i brodogradnji na Kvarneru, od rings for their wives. The starting point for the character of prapovijesti do suvremenog doba. Moretto is also Venice, which in the 17th and 18th century was obsessed with the Orient and so the wealthy patricians Srećonoša - riječki Morčić had black slaves. At the same time in Rijeka its more mod- Potražite morčića u riječkim galerijama ili zlatarnama. Riječki est version was created which became part of Rijeka’s traditional public jewellery. It is believed that Morettos bring suvenir, lik crne glave s bijelim turbanom, najčešće kao nakit, luck, so they are an ideal souvenir. You can discover some- nekad su nosili su i sinovi jedinci, pomorci (po jednu u desnom thing about the Moretto in the home of a well-known Ri- uhu), te ribari kao zaštitu. Legenda o nastanku seže u 16. stolje- jeka family: Villa Ružić. In the guest book of this villa are će kada su Riječani, navodno, pobijedili Turke na Grobničkome the signatures of Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić, Alojzije Stepinac, polju te kao uspomenu na taj podvig dali svojim ženama izraditi Vanessa Redgrave, Stanley Kubrick ... the Villa, situated in naušnice-morčiće. Ishodište za lik morčića je i Venecija koja je u Rijeka’s Pećine quarter keeps part of the rich inheritance of 17. i 18. st. bila opsjednuta Orijentom pa su bogati patriciji ima- the Mažuranić-Brlić-Ružić families. Besides a valuable col- li crne sluge. U isto vrijeme u Rijeci nastaje njihova skromnija lection of books, there are also numerous valuable exhibits varijanta koja postaje dijelom tradicionalnog riječkog pučkog like the ring of Smail-aga Čengić. nakita. Vjeruje se da morčići donose sreću, stoga su idealan suvenir. O morčiću doznajte i u domu poznate riječke obitelji: Villi The best view and relationship with god Ružić. U knjigu dojmova ove vile upisali su se Ivana Brlić-Ma- In the oldest quarter of Rijeka - Trsat, you can find the home žuranić, Alojzije Stepinac, Vanessa Redgrave, Stanley Kubrick... of the Trsat Franciscans, a place which has been providing Vila na riječkim Pećinama čuva dio bogate ostavštine obitelji peace to believers and non-believers for seven centuries on Mažuranić-Brlić-Ružić. Uz vrijednu zbirku knjiga, tu je i cijeli the rock above the river Rječina. niz vrijednih eksponata poput prstena Smail-age Čengića. Trsat extends over the most beautiful Rijeka view on the Kvar- ner bay from the former medieval fortress on a high rock above Najljepši pogled i veza s bogom the river Rječina. The view from that panoramic point extends Na najstarijem dijelu Rijeke - Trsatu, dom je trsatskih franjeva- to mountain Učka, the islands of Cres and Krk, until Velebit. ca, mjesto koje već sedam stoljeća na stijeni iznad rijeke Rječine Diligent walkers can even reach the prehistoric Trsat Castle vjernicima, a i onima koji to nisu, pruža mir. by foot. At 135 meters above sea level they will pass, through 15

Na visokoj stijeni iznad rijeke Rječine, s nekadašnje srednjovje- kovne utvrde Trsata pruža se najljepši riječki pogled na Kvarnerski zaljev. Pogled s tog vidikovca doseže do Učke, otoka Cresa i Krka pa sve do Velebita. Do trsatske gradine čija povijest seže u prethistori- ju, marljivi šetači mogu i pješice. Na 135 metara visine valja prijeći, kroz trijemove i kapele, preko 500 stepenica koje nose ime Petra Kružića, kraljevskoga kapetana koji ih je dao sagraditi. Trsat je mjesto privlačno hodočasnicima već više od sedam sto- ljeća. Svetište Majke božje trsatske najstarije je hrvatsko mari- jansko svetište koje godišnje posjete tisuće vjernika.

Legenda o nazaretskoj kućici Prema predaji, krajem 13. stoljeća su Marijinu kuću u nazaretu anđeli prenijeli na Jadran, na Trsat. O toj priči govori najveća slika u Svetištu. Vrijedno ulje na platnu slikara Christophora Tasce "Naviještenje i prijenos nazaretske kuće na Trsat", nalazi se na istaknutom mjestu, u triumfalnom luku bazilike. Gotovo 300 godina nakon što je naslikana i postavljena u svetište, ne- davno je restaurirana pa se na njoj jasnije vidi 41 anđeo. Uz trsatsko svetište vezuju se još mnoge umjetničke vrijednosti, rukopisi, povelje, povijesne knjige i bogata riznica zavjetnih darova koji su, zahvaljujući brizi trsatskih franjevaca, očuvani tijekom burne povijesti Rijeke i Trsata. Mjesto je to obraćenja i odlučivanja, ali i krepkoga mira kojeg svi, barem u nekom razdo- blju života, tražimo. Kao što su to u ovom gradu pronašli i mnogi građani koji su u Rijeku stigli sa svojim različitim kulturama i vjerama, osjetit ćete to i vi, dragi gosti. porches and chapels, over 500 steps that carry the name of Petar Kružić, the royal captain who ordered their construction. For more than 7 centuries, Trsat has been an attractive place for pilgrims. The Sanctuary of Our Lady of Trsat is the oldest Croatian Marian sanctuary, and is visited annually by thousands of pilgrims.

The Legend of the small Nazareth’s house According to legend, at the end of 13th century, the angels transferred the house of Mary in Nazareth to the Adriatic, on Trsat. There is also a great painting depicting that story in the Sanctuary. A valuable oil on canvas by painter Chris- tophor Tasco "Announcement and transfer of the Nazareth House to Trsat" is situated in a prominent place in the tri- umphal arch of the basilica. Almost 300 years after it was painted and placed in the sanctuary, it was recently restored so the 41 angels can be seen more clearly. Many other artistic treasures are linked with the Trsat sanctuary, such as manuscripts, charters, historical books and a rich treasury of votive gifts which, thanks to the care of Trsat Franciscans, have been preserved throughout the tumultuous history of Rijeka and Trsat. This is a place of proselytising and decision-making, but there is also a healthy peace that at least once in our lives we are all looking for. Furthermore many of those who arrive in Rijeka with their different cultures and religions have felt it, and you, dear guests, will also feel it. 16 Intervju / Interview Piše / Written by: Larry Ambrozich

Ivan Ljubičić 17

Gem, set, meč. Kraj. Nakon 24 godine igranja i drža- Game, set and match. The end. After 24 years of playing and nja teniskog reketa u ruci, Ivan Ljubičić je svom ži- holding a tennis racket in his hand, Ivan Ljubičić said– that’s votnom pozivu rekao - dosta. I učinio je to u velikom enough to his profession. And he has done it in great style. stilu. Baš onako kako i priliči jednom od najvećih te- As befitting one of the greatest players in Croatian history. nisača u hrvatskoj povijesti. Sedam stotina dvadeset i Seven hundred and twenty five matches have been played pet odigranih mečeva i četiri stotine dvadeset i devet with four hundred and twenty nine wins and this is what he pobjeda ono je što ostaje iza njega. Na relaciji Monte leaves behind. On route between Monte Carlo and Rijeka, Carlo - Rijeka predahnuo je uz kavu i ispričao priču he made a coffee break and told us a story worth admiring. vrijednu divljenja. Yesterday you were one of the greatest, and today you are Do jučer ste bili jedan od najvećih, a danas ste već bivši already a former tennis player. Do you feel strange? tenisač. Čudan osjećaj? I’m getting used to it and proudly looking back on everything Navikavam se i s ponosom gledam na sve ono što sam I have achieved. I’ve had a great career. I can be happy with it napravio. Činjenica je da sam imao super karijeru. S and move forward. I’m saying goodbye at thirty three – it is not njome se treba pomiriti i krenuti dalje. Sa trideset i tri a sudden decision or one taken too soon. se opraštam - nije niti naglo ni prerano. What was the thing that pushed you forward, what was the Što vas je tjeralo naprijed, koji vam je bio najveći motiv reason for you playing tennis? zbog kojeg ste igrali tenis? The ranking list, that was what constantly drew me, making me Rang lista, ona je ta koja me je stalno vukla, tražila ne- look for something more, it was my biggest motivation. Those što više od mene, to je bila moja najveća motivacija. Te numbers, you see as you skip places on the ranking list, it is an brojke, kad vidite kako preskačete mjesta na rang listi, important thing for every player and something with which we to je za jednog tenisača velika stvar i nešto prema čemu all measure ourselves. se svi mjerimo. What are you most proud of in your career? Na što ste najviše ponosni u karijeri? I am proud of four things. The third place on the ranking list in Na četiri stvari sam najponosniji.Treće mjesto na rang 2006, the bronze medal in the doubles with Mario Ančić at the listi 2006. godine, brončana medalja u paru sa Mariom Olympic Games in Athens, winning the title in Indian Wells Ančićem na OI u Ateni, naslov u Indian Wellsu 2010. i in 2010 and the unforgettable Davis Cup win in 2005 when nezaboravni Davis Cup 2005. kad je Hrvatska postala Croatia became the best in the world. najbolja na svijetu. During your career, you have won against some of the finest U svojoj ste karijeri pobjeđivali najveće tenisače. Koju players. Which is the win you will especially remember? pobjedu posebno pamtite? It is hard to say, but all wins against Federer, Nadal, Đoković Teško je reći, ali sve pobjede protiv Federera, Nadala, and Murray are equally pleasant. But I care the most about the Đokovića i Murraya su mi podjednako drage. No najdra- one against Nadal in the Indian Wells semi-finals. Although no ža je bila protiv Nadala u polufinalu Indian Wellsa, to one had expected it I won and that is why it is the most im- nitko nije očekivao i zato je možda najveća. Onaj tko je portant. Anyone who wanted to win a tournament at that time, želio tada osvojiti neki turnir morao je pobijediti najve- had to win the best ones. I managed it. će. Meni je to pošlo za rukom. You started to play tennis when you were nine years old. To- Počeli ste igrati tenis sa devet godina. Zajedno s ocem gether with your father you dreamt about a final, and there, sanjali ste jedno finale, došlo ih je dvadeset i četiri. you've been in twenty four of them. Do you regret the num. 1? Žalite li za pozicijom br. 1? It was almost impossible to be number one in my time. Biti prvi u moje vrijeme bilo je gotovo nemoguće. Kad When I was at the top of my career, Nadal and Federer were sam bio na vrhuncu svoje karijere Nadal i Federer su the unreachable ones; today they are a bit softer, more bili nedohvatljivi, danas su malo mekši, dohvatljiviji, reachable, as Đoković has proved. The finals I lost were kao što je to Đoković i pokazao. Finala koja sam gubio those played against great players, and I could even have 18

...Rijeka definitivno ima zapadnjački won some of them, but that is behind me now, there were not a lot of failures. mentalitet. Otvorena je prema strancima i nikad se nisam osjećao The road to the stars was literally thorny. Everyone has his own path. I left Banja Luka in 1992 and came strancem, pa ni kad je to bio slučaj... to Opatija as a refugee. In the same year I met my wife. I went to Italy in 1993 completely on my own, without having anyone ...Rijeka is a city which definitely close by and without knowing the language. I was fourteen years old. I stayed there for three years in a training camp has a western mentality. It is open close to Turin and in 1996 I came back to Croatia for a year. to foreigners and I have never felt Then I went to Monte Carlo to train with Riccardo Piatti. Each of those steps was important and if it wasn’t for those steps, I like a foreigner here, not even wouldn’t have my career either. when that was actually the case... The first prize money won at a tournament amounted to 1,500 German Marks. What did you do with that money? bila su protiv velikih igrača, neka od njih sam možda I was proud to be able to give the money to my parents and as a mogao i dobiti, ali sad je to iza mene, nije bilo previše reward they bought me a gold necklace. Unfortunately, I don’t propusta. know where it is now, but it was a huge thing for us. At that time I was not even close to the top, but to everyone's surprise Put do zvijezda bio je trnovit, ali doslovno. I won that tournament. Svatko ima svoj put. Iz Banja Luke sam otišao 1992. i do- šao u Opatiju kao izbjeglica. Iste godine sam upoznao Unless I'm mistaken, there is an anecdote linked to the win- suprugu. U Italiju sam otišao 1993. sam samcat, bez iko- ning of the first tournament. ga, bez poznavanja jezika. Imao sam samo četrnaest go- Yes, it is true. I won it with 4 fingers! I had a problem with a nail dina. Zadržao sam se tri godine u trening kampu blizu which I did not know how to treat. However, that has been an Torina i već 1996. sam se na godinu dana vratio u Hrvat- education for later events as even the smallest problems should sku. Potom sam otišao u Monte Carlo trenirati s Riccar- be solved in time so as not to cause bigger problems later. dom Piattijem. Svaka od tih stepenica je bila bitna, jer da njih nije bilo ne bi bilo ni moje karijere. Soon after that followed some difficult years. You ran away from the war in Bosnia and Herzegovina. How did you spend Prvi osvojeni honorar na turniru vrijedio je 1500 the refugee period? njemačkih maraka. Što ste učinili s njima? At that time, the idea was to go somewhere for 2-3 months. Bio sam ponosan što mogu taj novac dati roditeljima, a At first it was not that traumatic, we ended up in Opatija. We oni su mi za nagradu kupili zlatni lančić. Nažalost više bathed more than ever, the start was relatively simple, the only ne znam gdje je, ali bila je to velika stvar za nas. Tada one we missed was our father. As time passed, things started nisam bio ni blizu vrhu, ali sam na sveopće iznenađenje to become difficult. They threw us out of the refugee hotel in osvojio taj turnir. Opatija, there was no place for us, we didn’t have any money and we had to find accommodation. Panic started to appear and Ako se ne varam, postoji jedna anegdota vezana uz osva- we solved it by selling our house and our land in Banja Luka janje prvog turnira. and getting a small apartment in Rijeka. Our father joined us Da, istina. Njega sam osvojio sa 4 prsta! Naime imao too and we continued to live a mainly normal life. sam bolnu zanokticu koju nisam znao riješiti. Među- tim, bila mi je to škola za kasnije da svaki, pa i najma- What was your knowledge of Rijeka when you came here? nji problem rješavam na vrijeme kako ne bi eskalirao I didn't know much about Rijeka and I had never been to the u nešto veće. city before that. I found out where we were going just a few days before our departure and in spite of the escape and the unfor- Ubrzo nakon toga slijede teške godine. Pobjegli ste tunate circumstances, I liked the city from the first moment. iz ratom zahvaćene Bosne i Hercegovine. Kako ste proživljavali izbjeglištvo? What was your arrival in Rijeka like and what were your U tom trenutku ideja je bila otići negdje 2-3 mjeseca. first impressions of it? Ispočetka nije bilo tako traumatično, završili smo u Regardless of the fact we were refugees, my brother and I were Opatiji. Kupali smo se više no ikada, početak je bio re- positively excited by the fact we are heading to the seaside. At lativno jednostavan, samo nam je nedostajao otac. Što the time we did not understand the seriousness of the situa- je vrijeme više prolazilo, bilo je teže. Izbacili su nas iz tion in which we found ourselves. And I remember the incred- izbjegličkog hotela u Opatiji, nije bilo mjesta za nas, ibly large number of boats anchored in front of the city. 19 novca nismo imali a morali smo naći smještaj. Počela je panika koju smo riješili tako što smo kuću i ze- mljište u Banja Luci zamijenili za jedan mali stančić u Rijeci. Pridru- žio nam se i otac pa smo nastavili donekle normalan život.

Koliko ste znali o Rijeci kad ste dolazili? O Rijeci nisam puno znao i nikad prije toga u Rijeci nisam bio. Sa- znao sam gdje idemo nekoliko dana prije odlaska i usprkos tom bijegu i nesretnim okolnostima, Rijeka me osvojila na prvu.

Dolazak u Rijeku i prvi dojmovi Bez obzira na činjenicu da smo bili izbjeglice, brat i ja smo bili pozi- tivno uzbuđeni da idemo na more. Tada još nismo shvaćali ozbiljnost situacije u kojoj smo se našli. I sje- ćam se nevjerojatno velike količine brodova koji su bili usidreni ispred grada.

When someone mentions Rijeka to you, what are the memories linked to it? It is the city where I found my family. I think that is enough. Rijeka is a special city, not only for me, but for others who come here too. It has a special kind of vibration. I spent lots of time in Rijeka on tennis courts in Marčeljeva draga where I trained and I was also a member of the Kvarner Tennis Club. And I continue repeating – the tennis courts in Marčeljeva draga are unique. It is an excellent place to play tennis. From the clay courts you can see the whole of Kvarner. The thing that makes Marčeljeva draga so special is the tennis with a view. Numerous players and tennis enthusiasts always willingly come back to the courts in Marčeljeva draga as do I.

You have travelled the whole world. Which was the place that particularly impressed you? I found Dubai the most thrilling, especially the places people have managed 20

Kad vam se danas spomene Rijeka kakve vas uspomene vežu uz nju? To je grad koji mi je podario obitelj. Mislim da je to dovoljno reci. Rije- ka je poseban grad, ne samo meni već i ostalima koji u njega dođu. Ima neku posebnu pozitivnu vibru. Mnogo sam vremena u Rijeci pro- vodio na teniskim terenima u Mar- čeljevoj dragi gdje sam trenirao, ali i bio član Teniskog kluba Kvarner. I uvijek ponavljam - teniski tereni u Marčeljevoj dragi su neponovljivi. To je izvanredno mjesto za igranje tenisa. Sa zemljanih terena vidi se gotovo cijeli Kvarner. Ono što Mar- čeljevu dragu čini jedinstvenom je tenis sa pogledom. Mnogi tenisači i teniski zaljubljenici uvijek se rado vraćaju na terene u Marčeljevoj dragi pa tako i ja.

Proputovali ste cijeli svijet. Koje vas je svjetsko mjesto posebno impresionirao? Meni je Dubai najfascinantni- ji, što su ljudi uspjeli izgraditi u

to build in the last decade. I like Lon- don and New York too; however Dubai is a miracle of human intervention.

Rijeka compared to western countries? Rijeka is a city which definitely has a western mentality. It is open to foreigners and I have never felt like a foreigner here, not even when that was actually the case.

What do you like most about Rijeka, where do you like to go out, where do you like taking a stroll… My favourite parts of the city are Trsat, the Korzo and Kantrida. When I'm at home, I don’t usually go out, and if I take a walk with my family it is usually in those parts of the town.

I imagine the birth of your children is the greatest moment of your life? The birth of my first child was the most emotional moment of my life. I cried. The moment of the birth itself and the new life are emotional, but after that 21 posljednjem desetljeću. I London i New York su lijepi, ...Trsat, Korzo i Kantrida su mi ali Dubai je čudo ljudske ruke. najdraži dijelovi grada. Inače Usporedba Rijeke u odnosu na zapad? ne izlazim kad sam kući, no ako Rijeka definitivno ima zapadnjački mentalitet. Otvore- i prošećem s obitelji onda je to na je prema strancima i nikad se nisam osjećao strancem, pa ni kad je to bio slučaj. svakako u tim dijelovima grada...

Što najviše volite u Rijeci, gdje volite izaći, prošetati...... my favourite parts of the city are Trsat, Korzo i Kantrida su mi najdraži dijelovi grada. Trsat, the Korzo and Kantrida. When Inače ne izlazim kad sam kući, no ako i prošećem s obi- I'm at home, I don’t usually go out, telji onda je to svakako u tim dijelovima grada. and if I take a walk with my family it Rođenje djece, možda i najveći trenutak vašeg života? is usually in those parts of the town... Rođenje prvog djeteta mi je bio najemotivniji trenutak u životu. Plakao sam. Sam trenutak rađanja i novog života su emocionalni, no nakon rođenja slijedi stres follows the stress of growing up, especially with your first child odrastanja, pogotovo kod prvog gdje si sav prestrašen, when you are scared, much too organized. With the second sve organiziraš. Kod drugog je sve jednostavnije. Zara i child everything is simpler. Zara and Leonardo are big chil- Leonardo su velika djeca, nemaju na koga biti mala (ha, dren, they do not have the genes to be small (ha, ha), we enjoy ha), uživamo s njima maksimalno. them enormously.

Nastavak obiteljske tradicije u tenisu? Continuation of the family tradition in tennis? Za sada Leonardo ne pokazuje neke znakove i želje ali For now, Leonardo does not show any signs or desires, but who tko zna, neću im govoriti što i kako, sami će odlučiti što knows, I will not tell them what and how to do it, they will de- žele. Supruga i ja ćemo im pokušati pomoći koliko to cide on their own what they want to do. My wife and I will try bude moguće. Leonardo pokazuje lijepe atletske sposob- to help them as much as possible. Leonardo shows some nice nosti tako da vjerujem da će se baviti nekim sportom athletic skills so I believe he will do some form of sport.

Prepoznaju li vas ljudi na ulici? Do people recognize you on the street? Da, čak me to i iznenađuje. Pogotovo u posljednje tri go- Yes, and that is what surprises me too. Especially in the last dine. Na Sejšelima su me na odmoru prepoznala djeca three years. In the Seychelles I was recognized by some i bilo mi je baš ''vau''. Vikali su tenis Ljubičić, shvatio children and I really felt “wow”. They were yelling “tennis sam tada da sam svjetski poznat. Ali ne zavidim Cristi- Ljubičić” and that is when I realized I was famous in the world. anu Ronaldu, on nema život, ograničava te ta popular- But I'm not jealous of Cristiano Ronaldo, he doesn’t have a life, nost ne možeš sjesti na miru ni popiti kavu, ali to je ci- fame limits you and you aren’t able to sit in peace and have a jena slave coffee, but that is the price of glory.

Niste baš „uživali“ u noćnom životu, ili? You haven’t really “enjoyed” a night life as such, or have you? Mi tenisači baš i ne izlazimo. Sami smo svoje gazde i kad Tennis players do not go out that much. We are our own bosses bi se odlučili za takav način života, sami bismo sebi pu- and if we decided on that kind of life, it would be like shoot- cali u nogu jer ako bi dan nakon izlaska morali odigrati ing ourselves. If we had to play a match after a night out and meč i izgubili ga, značilo bi da smo sami sebi uzeli novac we lost it, it would mean losing money from our own pockets. iz ruku. Nemamo ugovore koji nam jamče novce pa su u We do not have contracts guaranteeing us money and with this tom pogledu individualni sportaši puno odgovorniji od in mind, individual athletes are much more responsible from onih u momčadskim sportovima. those playing in teams.

Pratite li ostale sportove? Do you follow other sports? Naravno, veliki sam sportski frik. Pratim sve. Nogomet, Of course, I'm a big sports freak. I follow everything. Soccer, košarku, rukomet, pa čak i kriket. basketball, handball and even cricket.

Kako se opuštate? How do you relax? Prvi put u životu uživat ću u ljepotama Jadrana. Pitanje For the first time in my life I will be able to enjoy the beauties of the je hoću li u sljedećih 20 godina to moći napraviti, jer ne- Adriatic. It is a question I will only be able to answer in the next 20 što ću ipak morati raditi. years as, in any case, I will have to do something eventually. 22 Novi grad / New city Piše / Written by: Velid Đekić

Grafiti, umjetnička djela, crteži koji odišu Graffiti, works of art and drawings that emit pozitivnom energijom i urbanim duhom a positive energy and urban spirit have been osvajaju grad conquering the city

Veseli zidovi riječki Cheerful Rijeka’s Walls 23

Zahvaljujući zidovima, Rijeka postaje sve veseliji grad. I to, što je najbolje, onim velikim, praznim do jučer sivim zidovima, koji su možda mislili da će takvi ostati dovijeka. Ti isti zidovi danas pršte od boja, dinamike, radosti. Kako je to moguće? Lako. Samo dajte priliku umjetnicima… Čini se da je prvu loptu te vrste zakotrljao glasoviti riječki slikar Vojo Radoičić. Gradski nestor kista, u godinama koje već same po sebi prizivaju poštovanje, a iz čijeg atelijera ne prestaju izlaziti radovi za koje bi se reklo da ih je naslikao kakav nesputan mladac, Radoičić je svoju mediteransku zaigranost krajem prošle godine prenio na pročelje visoke kuće u Ulici Janeza Trdine 5. Ne bi bilo krivo reći i na Pa- vlinskom trgu, s obzirom da oslikano pročelje gleda na jedan od omiljenih trgova u samom gradskom središtu. Thanks to its walls, Rijeka is becoming a more cheerful city. Dok ispijaju kavu i čavrljaju za nekim od ugostiteljskih sto- And what is best, it is thanks to those large, empty and, un- lova, posjetiteljima trga u vidokrug ulazi povelik, bojama til yesterday, grey walls, which thought they would remain napučen sredozemni ambijent s Vojinim potpisom. Tko the same forever. These same walls are today full of colour, imalo poznaje Radoičićevo slikarstvo, zna i to da je zidna dynamism and joy. slika u Janeza Trdine drukčija od onoga na što nas je slikar How is that possible? Easily. Just give the artists a chance… navikao. Ona je bez prepoznatljivih mediteranskih kućica i njihovih šarmantnih stanara. Radoičićev mediteranski am- It would appear that the pioneer of this kind of art is the bijent je ovaj put protkan manje očekivanom, apstraktnom famous Rijeka painter, Vojo Radoičić. The city master of the notom. Prizor se planira upotpuniti njegovom instalacijom brush, old enough to be respected for his years, and from u obliku oslikanog broda. whose atelier works of art have continued to emerge and for which many might say have been painted by some un- Dovoljan je pogled i sve je jasno – riječki Stari grad s Rado- restrained young man. Radoičić transferred his Mediterra- ičićem i bez njega nije isti. Objašnjenje? Taj smo dio grada nean fascination at the end of the last year to the façade of oduvijek voljeli, unatoč svemu onome što su godine donije- the high house in Janeza Trdine Street No 5. It would not be le njegovu licu, a sada ga volimo još više. incorrect to talk about Pavlinski Square too as its painted Sličnim vodama zaplovili su nešto mlađi gradski poklonici façade faces one of the most popular squares in the city cen- lijepih vizualnih intervencija u urbani prostor. Naravno, či- tre itself. neći to na svoj način. Umjesto kista ili valjka, u njihovim se Whilst having coffee and chatting around a table, visi- rukama našao grafiterski sprej. tors of the square can see a pretty large presentation of Razlog zbog kojeg je grafit posvećen Loligu valja potražiti the Mediterranean environment, full of colour and car- u podatku da je Loligo prvi svjetski batiskaf projektiran u rying Vojo’s signature. Those who know something about riječkoj tvornici Whitehead i izgrađen 1915. u riječkom bro- Radoičić’s painting, know that this wall painting in Janeza dogradilištu koje danas nosi ime 3. maj. Batiskaf je mala Trdine Street is different from what we are used to when podmornica projektirana i opremljena za znanstvena istra- seeing his works of art. There are none of his small recog- živanja, dakle ploveći laboratorij za podvodna promatranja nizable Mediterranean houses or their charming inhabit- i snimanja, uključujući prikupljanje uzoraka morske flore i ants. Radoičić’s Mediterranean environment has here been faune. Da, istina je: čuveni Jacques Cousteau je u nakani da filled with a less expected, abstract note. It is planned to zaroni u morske dubine imao riječke prethodnike… complete the view with Radoičić's installation in the form of a painted boat. One look is enough and everything becomes clear – Rijeka’s Old Town with Radoičić and without him is not the same. Is there an explanation? We always liked this part of the city, in spite of everything the years have given to its unique appearance, but now we like it even more. A few younger city enthusiasts of beautiful visual inter- ventions have sailed on similar waters, transforming their works into the urban space. Of course, doing it in their own way. Instead of brush and roller, they used graffiti spray paint. The reason this graffiti was dedicated to Loligo lies in the fact that it was the first bathyscaphe in the world to be 24

designed at Rijeka’s Whitehead factory and constructed in 1915 in Rijeka’s shipyard now known under the name of 3.maj (3rd May). The bathyscaphe is a small submarine designed and equipped for scientific research, that is, a kind of floating laboratory for underwater observation and registration, including the gathering of samples of sea flora and fauna. Yes, it is true: the famous Jacques Cousteau, in his intention to dive into the blue sea, had forerunners in Rijeka… The more than positive reactions of fellow-citizens with regard to the work of art that appeared in Kantrida harbour encouraged members of the Riječka enciklopedija group to start another visual project. As was the case with Loligo, once again they devoted their energy and money for the Više nego dobre reakcije sugrađana na rad u lučici Kantrida materials, whilst graffiti writers accepted the job without ohrabrile su članove grupe Riječka enciklopedija da se pri- asking for compensation. hvate još jednog vizualnog projekta. Kao što je to bio slučaj In March this year, a new graffiti art work appeared in the s Loligom, oni su se iznova potrudili novčanim donacijama city centre. In the neighbourhood of the Port of Rijeka Ad- za materijal, a grafiteri se prihvatili posla bez naknade. ministration Building, on the façade of the long, grey con- U ožujku ove godine, u gradskom se središtu pojavio novi crete bunker dating back to the Second World War, a wall grafit. U susjedstvu Upravne zgrade Luke Rijeka, napro- painting appeared dedicated to an unusual trip made by čelju dugog, sivog betonskog bunkera iz Drugoga svjetskog one of Croatia’s famous sculptures. Each trip begins in a 25

Loligo Loligo Prvu praznu plohu koju su odlučili učiniti živah- They found the first blank surface which they decided nijom pronašli su u lučici Športsko-ribolovnog to make more cheerful in the small harbour of the Kan- društva Kantrida. I, primjereno mjestu, odlučili trida Sport and Fishing Society. And, in keeping with – zaroniti. Rezultat se također pojavio pred očima the place itself, they decided to – dive. The result was sugrađana potkraj prošle godine i imao je oblik also apparent in the eyes of their fellow-citizens at the podmornice. Zidna slika što je autorski potpisuje end of last year in the shape of a submarine. The wall Eduardo Filipović Sec doveo je u lučicu riječku painting, signed by Eduardo Filipović Sec, brought the podmornicu Loligo. Oslikavanje zidova prizorima i Loligo submarine into the harbour. The walls painted likovima iz manje poznate gradske prošlosti razvilo with scenes and characters from the city’s lesser known se kao projekt „Refaj se“ (na čakavskom dijalektu: past was developed as "Refaj se" (in the Chakavian oporavi se, vrati dugove). Pokrenula ga je facebook dialect meaning get well, pay your debts) project. It grupa Riječka enciklopedija Fluminensia, koja s was initiated by the Riječka enciklopedija Fluminen- ciljem promoviranja gradske kulturne baštine oku- sia Facebook group which promotes the city’s cultural plja 4.800 članova. heritage and boasts 4,800 members. rata, osvanula je zidna slika posvećena neobičnom putova- port, and - if it’s an important journey – it is logical that the nju jedne glasovite hrvatske skulpture. Svako putovanje po- departure will take place in the Port of Rijeka… činje u luci, a – ako je u pitanju važno putovanje – nekako se A young Rijeka artist, Edi Gustin Mask used the tri- samo po sebi čini logičnim da počinje u riječkoj luci… angle-like façade to paint the moment of the Antun Mladi riječki umjetnik Edi Gustin Mask iskoristio je tro- Augustinčić’s sculpture Peace Messenger embarkation kutasto pročelje da bi naslikao trenutak ukrcavanja na on the ocean-going ship. The ship cast off in 1954 head- prekooceanski brod skulpture Antuna Augustinčića, Vje- ing to New York, and more precisely, to the United Na- snica mira. Brod je isplovio 1954. prema New Yorku, toč- tions Centre. It was set up in front of the building of the nije prema sjedištu Ujedinjenih naroda, gdje je postavljen organisation with a message which does not need any pred samu zgradu te organizacije, s porukom kojoj je svako further explanation. objašnjenje suvišno. With this move, the Port of Rijeka became more beau- Riječka je luka tim potezom postala ljepša, poput lučice tiful too, likewise the Kantrida harbour and Pavlinski Kantrida i poput Pavlinskoga trga. Šutljivi riječki zidovi na Square. Rijeka’s silent walls spoke to these city locations tim su gradskim lokacijama progovorili toliko dobro da je in such a pleasant way that was only a matter of time be- samo pitanje kada će za njihovim primjerom krenuti još fore they would be followed in the same way by another neki dugogodišnji gradski šutljivci te vrste. Treći grafit pri- age-long city unspeakable parts. The third graffiti shows kazuje Peru Radakovića, legendu riječkog nogometa, koji Pero Radaković, the Rijeka's football legend which ap- se pojavljuje na zidu nove atletske dvorane kraj stadiona pears on the wall of the new athletics hall, near Kantrida Kantrida. stadium. 26 Novi grad / New city Fotografije i tekst / Photos and text: Danijel Frka

Kvarnerski podvodni muzej potopljenih brodova Kvarner’s underwater museum of sunken ships 27

ELHAWI STAR Motorni trgovački brod iz Saudijske Arabije, potonuo 12.10.1982. godine ispred luke Baroš. Olupina leži na boku na dubini od 43 metra. Od prije nekoliko godina postao je vrlo popularna ronilačka destinacija. Motor merchant boat from Saudi Arabia, which sank on 12th October 1982 in front of the Port of Baroš. The wreck lies on its side, at a depth of 43 metres. Several years ago it became a very famous diving destination. 28

Hrvatsko podmorje skriva više od 85 The Kvarner Bay, on which northern LINA registriranih i opisanih ronilačkih de- part is located the Port of Rijeka, has for stinacija koje ljubiteljima ovog ekstre- centuries been a maritime route and an Teretni parobrod, izgrađen 1879. godine u Newcastle on Tyne, mnog sporta omogućuje istraživanje area through which various world trade Velika Britanija za kompaniju antičkih jedrenjaka i koraljnih livada and war ships have sailed. During past Granata iz Barija. U nevremena okomitim podvodnim zidovima, millenniums, due to bad weather, er- nu udario 14. siječnja 1914. u posjet morskim špiljama i olupinama rors in navigation, accidents, wars and obalu kod rta Pecenj na Cresu i ratnih brodova nastanjenih ribljim other causes, a large number of boats potonuo. Leži uspravno na dubini jatima. Jedna od takvih destinacija je suffered misfortunes on the wider od 25-55 metara. Vrlo popularna i kvarnerski zaljev sa riječkom lukom Kvarner area. Until recently, author- ronilačka destinacija. u njegovom sjevernom dijelu koji je ized state institutions paid special at- A cargo steam boat constructed in stoljećima bio pomorski put i prostor tention to the search, research and 1879 in Newcastle on Tyne, Great kojim su plovili brodovi najrazličitijih protection of ancient ships. Their loca- Britain for the Granata Compa- trgovačkih i ratnih mornarica svijeta. tions and remains were researched in ny from Bari. On 14th January A, kako se plovilo tako se, nažalost, i to- 1960s and 1970s and their cargo – am- 1914, during bad weather, it hit nulo - zbog nevremena, greške u navi- phorae, completed collections in the the coast close to the Pecenj Cape gaciji, sudara, ratnih djelovanja i nekih Rijeka Maritime and Historical Mu- on the island of Cres and sank. It drugih razloga, toliko da Kvarnersko seum of the Croatian Littoral as well lies vertically at a depth of 25-55 metres. It is considered a very famous diving destination. 29 podmorje uistinu ima neprocjenjivo in the other museums. Unfortunately, blago u skrivenom podvodnom muze- these antique shipwrecks were only VIS ju. Stoga, kao i u sve druge, nekim ćemo researched after the alarm was given teretni parobrod, sagrađen 1921. činjenicama tek odškrinuti njegova with regard to the site devastation, so godine u Port Glasgowu, Velika vrata i pozvati vas da zaronite u čaro- that hydro-archaeologists in the area Britanija. Pripadao kompaniji ban svijet morskih dubina. Ove ranjene did not have the chance to research un- Oceanija sa Sušaka. Potonuo 13. čelične nemani koje nepomično leže touched ancient ships. The locations of veljače 1946.godine nailaskom na morskom dnu nijemi su svjedoci these ancient ships for which research, na minu oko 400 m istočno od jezive sudbine brojnih pomoraca, voj- in that period, was organized by the rta Mašnjak kod ulaza u Plo- nika, ali i drama slučajnih putnika koje Regional Institute for the Protection minski kanal. Leži uspravno na su već ispričane ili tek trebaju biti. One of Cultural Monuments lead by the dubini od 60 metara. Jedna je su vrijedna kulturno-povijesna baština late Dr. Radmila Matejčić, were in the od najljepših olupina Kvarnera i ovih prostora i imaju znatan turistički port of Omišalj, close to the island of St Kvarnerića. potencijal. Lokacije antičkih brodova, Marko, in the Povile harbour and fur- A cargo steamboat, built in 1921 među kojima i one u luci Omišalj, kod ther ahead, close to Ilovik. The newer in the Port of Glasgow, Great Bri- otoka Sv. Marko, u lučici Povile te nešto boats – sailing boats, steamships and tain. It was owned by the Oceanija dalje, kod Ilovika, kao i ostaci olupina all kinds of war ships have not been sys- Company from Sušak. It sunk on brodova na ovom području istraživani tematically researched. It was probably 13th February 1946 striking a mine some 400 m east of the Maš- njak Cape, at the entrance to the Plomin Channel. It lies vertically at a depth of 60 metres. It is one of the most beautiful wrecks in Kvarner and Kvarnerić. 30 su šezdesetih i sedamdesetih godina je da se u Jadranu nalazi nekoliko stoti- considered that their historical impor- 20. stoljeća, a njihov najčešći teret – na evidentiranih olupina, ali točan broj tance was much less important than of amfore, popunile su muzejske zbirke nikada neće biti poznat. Za dvadesetak that of the ancient ships, and the Kvar- Pomorskog i povijesnog muzeja u Ri- novovjekovnih olupina lokacije još nisu ner Bay’s depths of over fifty metres has jeci i nekih drugih muzeja. To pak nije utvrđene. Olupine u hrvatskom dijelu protected them well from sport divers bio slučaj i sa novovjekim brodovima Jadrana uglavnom su u boljem stanju who were not well-equipped enough to poput jedrenjaka, parobroda i raznih od ostalih u europskim vodama, a po dive to greater depths. However, in the vrsta ratnih brodova koji nisu sustav- važnosti imamo i one koje se čak mogu mid-1980s, things completely changed. no istraživani. No, sve se promijenilo smatrati svjetskom baštinom. Tako je Sport diving in the world and in our polovicom osamdesetih godina 20. st. danas sve više onih koji žele zaviriti u areas in particular, overcame the con- kada je sportsko ronjenje u svijetu, a kvarnerski podvodni svijet i neka proš- fines of sports clubs and became one of potom i u Hrvatskoj preraslo granice la vremena koja imaju određeni povi- the main settings for nautical tourism. sportskih klubova, postavši jednom od jesni i kulturni značaj. Upravo ti poto- The improvement of diving techniques glavnih odrednica nautičkog turizma. pljeni brodovi danas su prvorazredna and diving treatment, the availability of Usavršavanje ronilačke tehnike i me- podvodna atrakcija za turiste – ronioce gas mixtures and new, easier diving de- dicine ronjenja, dostupnost plinskih kojima treba omogućiti da nesmetano vices have contributed to the fact that mješavina i novi laki ronilački aparati, posjećuju naš podvodni muzej, ali i da the limit of recreational and research pridonijeli su da se granica rekreativ- iz njega, kao i iz muzeja nad vodom, ne diving has moved to deeper depths, nog i istraživačkog ronjenja pomakla odnesu ništa osim podvodnih fotogra- up to 80 and more metres. Excellently do 80 metara, pa i dublje. Za istaknuti fija i video-zapisa. equipped enthusiast crews have begun to sail around the Adriatic Sea – ama- teur researchers who, well supplied with archive data, have begun to search the sunken new age boats. Until recently, the depth kept these boats from devastation, but with the appearance of the aforesaid crews, depth no longer represents a problem. Bells, compasses and other "trophies" have been taken from those boats and have ended up in foreign private collections or have been sold at auction. That is how numerous wrecks in the Kvarner area were pillaged before the official organs actually knew what was happening, and their reaction was slow too. However, it should be admitted that nowadays they are trying to protect their shipwrecks as they characterize days gone by and have a certain historical and cultural importance. As well as this, today they represent a first class underwater at- traction for tourists – divers for whom we can provide an undisturbed visit to our underwater museum and to take from it, and from the museum above water, nothing more than underwater photographs and video registrations. In order to understand which underwater treasures we are talking about, we will list the wrecks we know exist and for which we have data and those which in future will be taken care of. As, sooner or later those wrecks whose location is still unknown will be found eventually and it is important to evaluate their his- ELHAWI STAR torical and cultural importance in time and, if necessary, protect them. 31

SIGRID Motorni brod izgrađen 1956. u Njemačkoj, ciparske zastave. Potonuo 15.01.1977.za jakog juga ispred riječke luke, nepo- sredno uz lukobran. Djelomice izrezan. Popularna ronilačka destinacija. Motor boat built in 1956 in Ger- many; it sailed under the Cyprus flag. It sank on 15th January 1977 by the breakwater during strong southern sirocco winds. It is partly cut. It is considered a very famous diving destination. 32 Novi grad / New city Piše / Written by: Ljiljana Mamić Pandža

Gotovo svaka obitelj koja potječe iz ovih krajeva u obiteljskom nasljeđu posjeduje broš, naušnice, privjesak... Almost every family originating from these parts has, as part of their inheritance a brooch, earrings, a pendant... Morčić riječki srećonoša Morčić – Rijeka’s good luck charm 33

Ono što u Kini predstavljaju novčići na crvenoj vrpci, slon What in China is represented by a coin on a red ribbon; an s podignutom surlom ili u Indiji nasmijani Budha, u Rijeci elephant with its trunk raised or, in India, a smiling Buddha, predstavlja crnac s bijelim turbanom koji je zbog omilje- in Rijeka it is an Afro-American man with a white turban nosti u svim društvenim slojevima prihvaćen kao riječki and thanks to its popularity amongst all social classes, it has suvenir. Jedan je to od najprepoznatljivijih simbola ovo- been accepted as a Rijeka souvenir. It is one of the most rec- ga grada, mnogih djelatnosti i događanja, a posebice ognizable symbols of this city, of numerous activities Međunarodnoga riječkog karnevala, čija je ma- and events, and especially of the International skota i zaštitni znak i službeno od 1991. Rijeka Carnival for which it has formally godine. Morčić je vrsta originalnog been the symbol and mascot since 1991. nakita Rijeke, Kvarnera i hrvatskoga Morčić is a piece of original jewellery from Primorja, najzastupljeniji u obliku Rijeka, Kvarner and the Croatian Coast, naušnica, a osim estetske i ukrasne mostly present in the form of earrings. namjene, označava i privrženost Besides its aesthetic and decorative tim krajevima. Naušnice s poprsjem purpose, it also marks loyalty to these crnog čovjeka s turbanom i danas areas. Earrings with the bust of an nosi više od 70% žena toga podne- Afro-American man wearing a turban blja, neovisno o društvenom statusu are today worn by 70% of women from i nacionalnoj pripadnosti multietnič- the area; regardless their social status and ke Rijeke koja broji čak 22 nacionalne the nationality of multiethnic Rijeka which manjine. Upravo u toj šarolikosti i spoju counts up to 22 national minorities amongst kultura najveća je vrijednost grada koji će its population. It is precisely in this wide va- prigrliti svakoga tko se u njemu poželi skra- riety and bond of cultures, that the largest siti, kao i putnika namjernika, pa i onoga u significance of the city can be found which potrazi za srećom koja se nedvojbeno ni- will embrace anyone searching for a place to kakvim novcem ne može kupiti. Ipak, složit live, as well as the chance traveller and anyone ćete se, nitko nema baš sve što mu treba, a pritom looking for luck that, without doubt, no money ne mislimo na materijalno, nego prije svega duhov- can buy. However, you will agree that nobody has no zadovoljstvo. Naš Nobelovac Ivo Andrić zapisao everything he needs, not in the sense of material je "da je čudno kako nam je malo potrebno da bi things, but in particular, spiritual pleasure. bili sretni, te da je još čudnije što nam upra- Our Nobel winner, Ivo Andrić, once wrote vo to malo nedostaje". Možda ćeš upravo to that "it is strange how little we need to "malo", dragi čitatelju, pronaći u riječkom be happy, and it is even stranger that it is morčiću, jer on je naš srećonoša. precisely this little thing we always miss". Dear reader, maybe you will find this miss- Stigao je iz legende ing "little thing" in Rijeka's Morčić as he is Osim što se iz njega iščitava riječka povijest i tra- our good luck charm. dicija naših predaka i vještih zlatarskih ruku, to je simbol koji širi pozitivnu energiju, jer u sebi nosi op- He appeared from a legend timizam da nam upravo njegova blizina jamči ostva- Besides being written in the history and tradition of renje želja, spokoj, zaštitu od neprijatelja i svih zlih our ancestors and the skilful goldsmith’s hands, it is sila. Naušnicu s morčićem nekoć su nosili i muškar- also a symbol spreading positive energy as it brings ci, posebice ribari i njihovi sinovi jedinci, a u uhu optimism and it is precisely his closeness that guar- pripadnika muškog spola ni danas nisu rijetkost, kao antees our wishes coming true, our serenity, protec- ni broševi, narukvice, prstenje i pribadače morčića u tion from our enemies and from all evil forces. The riznicama svake starije riječke gradske obitelji. Zbog Morčić earring was once worn by men too, especially atraktivnosti i povijesnog značaja morčić je postigao i fishermen and their only sons. It is not odd to see it in zavidnu svjetsku slavu dobivši i turistički letak koji važ- a man’s ear today nor is it abnormal to find brooches, nost ovog popularnog simbola opisuje na čak 30 jezika. O bracelets, rings and pins in the treasure boxes of every nastanku morčića ispričane su brojne priče, spjevane na- older Rijeka family. Due to its attractiveness and histori- rodne pjesme i legende, među kojima su dvije najpozna- cal importance, the Morčić has achieved enviable world tije. Prvu, legendu o Zrinskom, opisala je poznata riječka fame acquiring a tourist flyer that describes the impor- arheologinja i povjesničarka umjetnosti Radmila Matej- tance of this famous symbol in 30 languages. Numerous čić. Datira iz 16. st. kad su se Turci utaborili na Grobnič- stories have been told about the Morčić’s origins, numer- kom polju, prijeteći napadom na Rijeku. Plemeniti ous popular songs and legends have been sung amongst Zrinski je s Gradine kod Jelenja odapeo strelicu koja je which there are two of the most famous ones. The first pogodila turskog pašu u sljepoočnicu, nakon čega se voj- one is the legend of Zrinski described by the famous Ri- ska razbježala. Svo vrijeme te opsade Riječani su, navodi jeka archaeologist and art historian, Radmila Matejčić. Matejčić, podizali oči k nebu i molili da kamenje s neba It dates back to 16th century when the Ottomans set 34 pobije Turke. Upravo to se i dogodilo uslijed njihova bije- up camp in the Grobnik Field, threatening to attack Ri- ga, zatrpavši Turke do vrata. Tako su na polju ostali samo jeka. The nobleman, Zrinski, shot an arrow from Gradina njihovi turbani. Kao uspomenu na taj događaj Riječani su (Castle) close to Jelenje that hit the Ottoman pasha in his svojim ženama stavili naušnice u obliku glave pokrivene temple causing the army to run away. During this period of turbanom. Druga legenda koja potječe s Pelješca govori Ottoman occupation, the people of Rijeka, so Matejčić says, da je jedna talijanska kontesa imala crnu sluškinju koju je looked to the sky and prayed to God to throw stones and kill jako voljela. Darovala joj je slobodu, a kao uspomenu na all the Ottomans. This is exactly what happened when they nju dala je izraditi naušnice s njenim likom. Na nastanak tried to run away: stones covered the Ottomans up to their morčića velik je utjecaj imala i Venecija, jer je u 17. i 18. necks and in a field only their turbans remained. In memo- stoljeću bila opsjednuta Orijentom, pa je tako uz orijen- ry of this event, Rijeka’s men put earrings of a man with tur- talne začine, mirise, tkaninu, odjeću i nakit, u odaje boga- ban in their wives’ ears. The second legend originates from tih venecijanskih patricija uvela paževe i sluge - crnce u Pelješac and says that an Italian countess had a black slave orijentalnoj odjeći. To je potaknulo mnoge venecijanske who she really liked. She gave her freedom and to remind zlatare da počnu izrađivati ukrasne igle u obliku crnca s her of the girl she ordered the creation of earrings depict- turbanom, zlatnog poprsja, bogato ukrašenog dragim ka- ing her. Morčić’s creation was largely influenced by Venice menjem, prozvanog "moretto". which, in 17th and 18th centuries, was obsessed with the Orient. Besides eastern spices, perfumes, fabrics, clothes Iz ruku iskusnih majstora and jewellery, the rich Venetian patricians started to use U isto vrijeme u Rijeci nastaje morčić, kao skromnija ver- pages and servants in their chambers – Afro Americans zija "venecijanskog moretta". Zbog specifičnog izgleda, wearing eastern clothes. This inspired numerous Venetian majstorske izrade te prihvatljive cijene, morčić postaje goldsmiths to begin creating decorative pins in the form of dio tradicionalnog ženskog pučkog nakita, ponajprije a black man with a turban, a golden bust, richly decorated Riječanki. Posljednji moretist, Raul Rolandi, u Rijeci je with precious stones, known as a "moretto". živio do kraja 1940-ih godina, a upravo zahvaljujući mo- delima i nacrtima iz njegove radionice, otkupljenima za From the hands of experienced masters kulturno-povijesnu zbirku Pomorskog i povijesnog mu- At the same time the Morčić was created in Rijeka, a more zeja Hrvatskog primorja u Rijeci, poznat je način izrade modest version of the "Venetian moretto". Due to its spe- morčića. Model za kostur morčića radi se u pozitivu koji cific appearance, the master’s creation and its acceptable se pak otisne u sipinu kost, pa se tako dobije negativ u price, the Morčić became part of traditional women’s pop- koji se lijeva otopljeno zlato. Kad se ono stvrdne, dobiva ular jewellery, first of all for women from Rijeka. The last se zlatni pozitiv čija se površina izdubi turpijama i nože- moretto maker, Raul Rolandi lived in Rijeka until the end vima kako bi se na njega mogao nanijeti emajl, usitnjen of 1940s and thanks to the models and sketches from his u finu prašinu. Taj se prah stavlja u dušičnu kiselinu u workshop, the cultural and historical collection of the Ri- kojoj stoji oko dva sata, a zatim se ispire i osuši. Na ko- jeka Maritime and Historical Museum of the Croatian Lit- madu stakla emajl se pomiješa s malo vode i ta se smjesa toral came about, showing the way the Morčić was created. iglom nanosi na zlatni kostur. Nakon nanošenja emajla The model for the Morčić’s frame is made in print and then na kostur, oblikuje se glava, posebno se utisnu mjesta za engraved onto a cuttle-bone so as to obtain a negative into ušne školjke, te istakne plastika nosa i brade. Tri zlatne which melted gold is cast. When the gold hardens, a golden točke ostaju slobodne i predstavljaju oči i usta. Tako pri- print is created which is chiselled out by files and knifes on premlje model stavlja se u malu limenu pećnicu poput the surface in order to adhere enamel crushed into tiny, uzdužno presječenog valjka i to je emajliranje na "prvu fine dust to it. This dust is then put into nitric acidand ruku", kako piše Radmila Matejčić. "Druga ruka" je pre- then left for around two hours after which it is washed and ciznija, dotjeruju se oblici ljudske glave, čiste se kanali, dried. The enamel is mixed with a drop of water on a piece zatvaraju se eventualne rupice u emajlu, konačno se obli- of glass and this mixture is then placed on the golden frame kuje nos i stavljaju crne točke po bijelom turbanu. Na taj using a needle. When the enamel is put onto the frame, the se način pripremljeni model ponovno stavlja u peć. Kad head is shaped and separately areas for the orifices and se izvadi iz ognja, zlato je crno pa se cijeli morčić stavi the nose are printed and the chin is enhanced. Three gold u blagi rastvor solne kiseline kako bi zlato postalo bije- spots remain free and represent the eyes and the mouth. lo. Nakon ispiranja morčić se očisti finim turpijicama i This model form is put into a small tin-oven in the form of dovršava se glačanjem pomoću četkica. "I danas morčića a longitudinally crossed roller and this is the "first coat" of ručno izrađujemo, ali je tehnologija ipak napredovala, pa enamelling, as written by Radmila Matejčić. The "second je cijeli postupak jednostavniji", kazao nam je jedan od coat" is more precise, the finishing touches are put to the najpoznatijih riječkih majstora zlatara, Tonči Grabušić, shapes of the head, and the channels are cleaned, any holes dodavši da je upravo zahvaljujući napretku tehnologi- in the enamel are removed and finally the form of the nose je, omogućeno da ovaj srećonoša bude dostupan svima. and the black dots on the white turban are added. This kind Vlasnici najstarije privatne galerije u Hrvatskoj, Male of model is put into the oven again and when it is complete, galerije Bruketa u Starom gradu ovaj suvenir izrađuju the gold becomes black and the whole Morčić is put into a u originalnoj keramičkoj tehnici. Morčića dva puta pale light solution of hydrochloric acid so that it becomes white. 35 na temperaturi od 1000 stupnjeva, te ga potom pri temperaturi od 690°C dodatno dekoriraju pravom pozlatom. Za kupce imaju spremne certifikate prevedene na više od 30 jezika. Iako postupak izrade i su- venira i nakita zahtijeva izuzetnu vještinu, strpljenje i preciznost, činjenica je da je morčić cjenovno dostupan svima, jer su riječki maj- stori i umjetnici svjesni da je sreću nemoguće kupiti; izvor naše sreće u subjektivnim je osobinama - ple- menitom karakteru, poduzetnom duhu, sretnom temperamentu, ve- drom umu i zdravom tijelu. A Mor- čić je upravo simbol svega toga; on je Rijeka otvorenoga srca.

After washing, the Morčić has to be cleaned with fine files and finished by polishing using brushes. "Even today the Morčić is handmade. How- ever, technology has developed and the whole procedure is much simpler", according to the most famous Rijeka master, Tonči Grabušić, who adds that it is precisely the techno- logical development that has ena- bled this good luck charm to be available for everyone. The owners of the oldest private gallery in Croatia, the ...naušnicu s morčićem nekoć su nosili i muškarci, Mala galerija Bruketa located in the posebice ribari i njihovi sinovi jedinci, a u uhu pripadnika old town centre, have created this muškog spola ni danas nisu rijetkost... souvenir using the original ceramic technique. They fire the Morčić ...the Morčić earring was once worn by men too, especially fishermen twice at a temperature of 1000°C and their only sons and it is not odd to see it in a man’s ear today... and then additionally decorate it with gilt at a temperature of 690°C. They also offer buyers a certificate that has been translated into more than 30 languages. Although the procedure to create souvenirs and jewellery requires exceptional skill, patience and precision, the fact that, with regard to the price, the Morčić is available to everyone, is thanks to Rijeka’s masters and artists who are aware that happiness cannot be bought; the source of our happiness is in subjective characteristics: a noble character, an adventurous spirit, a happy temperament, a cheerful mind and a healthy body. And the Morčić is precisely a symbol for all that; he is Rijeka’s open heart. 36 Novi grad / New city

Riječki hosteli U cijelome svijetu, tako i u Rijeci, sve je veća potražnja - omiljeni smještaj mladih za hostelima i onih koji se tako osjećaju There is a growing demand for hostels Rijeka hostels - favourite accomodation throughout the world and in Rijeka too place of youth and those who feel young

Odavno su iza nas vremena kada su hosteli bili sinonim za loš i jeftin Times when hostels were the synonym for bad and cheap accom- smještaj. Broj hostela u cijelom svijetu raste, kao i njihov standard, po- modation are far behind us. Number of hostels throughout the tražnja je sve veća. Jedino je cijena ostala ista, hosteli su i dalje znatno world is growing as well as their standard and the demand for jeftiniji od hotela. Hostele najčešće biraju mladi ljudi koji vole upozna- them. Only the price remained unchanged, hostels are still signifi- vanje i druženje, bitnija im je opuštena atmosfera od komfora, te na cantly cheaper than hotels. They are mainly chosen by youngsters svojim putovanjima naglasak stavljaju na aktivan odmor, zabavu i pro- who like to meet new people and hang out, who prefer the relaxing vod, a minimalno žele potrošiti na smještaj. Na hostelskoj karti svijeta atmosphere to comfort and put the accent to the active holiday, nalazi se i Rijeka sa svoja dva hostela... entertainment and fun with minimum costs spent for accommodation. On the world hostel map is located Rijeka too with its two Omladinski hostel Rijeka hostels… Za Hostel Rijeka svi su čuli! HI-Quality certifikat, koji ga svrstava među 250 visokokvalitetnih hostela u svijetu. Uz visok standard, njegovi Omladinski hostel Rijeka aduti su lokacija i pogled na Kvarnerski zaljev. Smješten je na Pećina- Everyone has already heard for the Rijeka Hostel! Hi-Quality ma, jednom od najljepših dijelova grada.Prije pet godina otvoren je u certificate that includes it within 250 high quality hostels in the impozatnoj građevini iz 1898. godine poznatoj kao Villa Kozulich, u world. Besides the high standard, its main advantages are the lo- kojoj se ranije nalazio dječji vrtić. U vili na dva kata i potkrovlju može cation and the view over the Kvarner Bay. It is located on Pećine, odsjesti 60 osoba. Na prva dva kata smještene su višekrevetne sobe, a one of the most beautiful parts of the city. It was opened five years svaka ima svoj sanitarni čvor. Za one koji žele privatnost, u potkrovlju ago in an impressive building from 1898 known as Villa Kozulich tzv. Penthouseu, još su tri dvokrevetne sobe. U prizemlju su recepcija that was once a kindergarten. The two-floor villa and its attic can te kuhinja i blagovaonica, internet corner, te prostrani dnevni boravak. host 60 people. On the first two floors are located multi bedrooms Hostel je okružen zelenilom, a samo nekoliko metara od njega su uda- each having its own sanitary block. For those in search for privacy, ljene najljepše riječke plaže. Tijekom ljeta hostel na Pećinama bio je in the so called Penthouse, in the attic, are situate another three svijet u malom. Najbrojniji su bili Francuzi, potom Britanci, Nijemci, double rooms. On the ground floor is located the reception as well 37 te Skandinavci. Kroz hostel su prošle putovnice gotovo svih europskih as the kitchen and dining room, internet corner and spacious liv- država, društvo su im u nešto manjem broju pravile i putovnice Austra- ing room. The hostel is surrounded by vegetation and only several lije, Novog Zelanda i SAD-a. Cijelo ljeto koje se ove godine produžilo metres away are located the most beautiful Rijeka's beaches. Dur- sve do listopada u hostelu se tražio krevet više. Niti jedan od 60 kreveta ing the summer, the hostel on Pećine was a kind of small world. u 13 soba niti jednu noć tijekom cijelog ljeta nije bio prazan. Cijena u Guests were mainly from France, Britain, Germany and Scandi- ljetnoj sezoni iznosila je 164 kune. Hostel je otvoren i ostatak sezone, navia. The hostel hosted "passports" from almost all European tada noćenje, doručak i pristojbe stoje 147 kuna. I van ljetne sezone ho- countries and besides the above mentioned countries, here also stel je uglavnom popunjen, veljača je rezervirana za sudionike i posje- stayed guests from Australia, New Zealand and USA. During the titelje Međunarodnog riječkog karnevala, u ožujku već redovito stižu whole last summer which was extended all until October, the hos- francuski maturanti na maturalno putovanje. Česti gosti hostela su i tel was always full. None of 60 beds disposed in 13 rooms was ever sportaši koji nastupaju na riječkim sportskim natjecanjima. Zaposleno empty during the whole summer. The price in the summer season je pet djelatnika, koji su svakog trenutka gostima na usluzi. Netipično amounted for 164 kunas. The hostel is opened during the rest of za hostel u kojem je obavezno tek služenje doručka, u riječkom hostelu season when bed and breakfast with taxes amounts for 147 kunas. gosti na zahtjev mogu dobiti polupansion ili sva tri obroka. The hostel is mainly full even out of the summer season; February is booked for participants and visitors of the Rijeka International Novi hostel Carnevale na Korzu Carnival and in March arrive French high school graduates on Sredinom rujna svoja je vrata otvorio novi riječki hostel Carnevale Ri- their final school trip. Common guests are also the athletes that jeka. Mali hostel moderno je uređen u 300 kvadrata, njeguje intimnu i take part in Rijeka’s sport competitions. Here work five employ- opuštajuću atmosferu, a nalazi se na idelanoj lokaciju u samom centru ees which are at guests' service at all times. Untypical for a hostel grada na Korzu. Hostel će biti otvoren cijele godine, ima 6 dvokrevetnih where only the breakfast servicing is obligatory, Rijeka hostel’s soba, dvije četverokrevetne sobe, te dvije spavaonice sa po šest i osam guests can ask for half or full board too. kreveta kao i pet modernih kupaonica. Sve to upotpunjuje mala recepcija i dnevni boravak za druženje i odmor. Cijene se kreću od 130 do 180 New Carnevale hostel on Korzo kuna. Prvi gosti koji su u njemu odsjeli bili su Amerikanci, a otkrili su ga New Rijeka's hostel Carnevale opened its doors in the mid Septem- odmah nakon otvorenja. U hostelu već imaju rezervacije za Novu go- ber. A small hostel is modernly furnished and set on 300 square dinu koju u Rijeci tradiocionalno uz Riječane dočekuju i brojni gosti, metres; it cherishes the intimacy and relaxing atmosphere and it punu popunjenost očekuju i u vrijeme Riječkog karnevala po kojem je is located on the ideal location in the city centre itself, on Korzo. hostel i dobio ime. Hostel will remain open throughout the year and it disposes of 6 double rooms, two quadruple rooms and two rooms with six and Hostel Aston eight beds as well as five modern bathrooms. All of that is complet- Najmlađi riječki hostel Aston smjestio se na Žabici u blizini Autobu- ed by a small reception desk and living room for spending time and snog kolodvora. Malom hostelu sa dvije dvokrevetne sobe, jednom sed- for relaxation. Price amounts from 130 to 180 kunas. First guests mokrevetnom, kupaonicom i zajedničkim dnevnim boravkom glavni that stayed here were Americans who discovered it immediately je adut blizina autobusnog i željezničkog kolodvora te luke. Turisti ga after its opening. The hostel rooms are booked already for New lako uoče odmah po dolasku u Rijeku, a od glavne šetnice Korza udaljen Year’s Eve which is in Rijeka traditionally welcomed by Rijeka inje svega dvije minute. Hostel Aston otvoren je sredinom ožujka, prvi su habitants and numerous guests. The full capacity is expected even u njemu prespavali Kanađani koji su bili na proputovanju kroz Rijeku. in the period of Rijeka Carnival according to which the hostel got Cijena smještaja kreće se od 115 kuna za smještaj u sedmerokrevetnoj its name too. sobi te 330 u dvokrevetnoj. Dvije sobe imaju pogled na akvatorij riječke luke. U zajedničkim prostorijama gostima je na raspologanju kuhinja u Hostel Aston kojoj mogu kuhati, odmoriti se uz televiziju te besplatno koristiti inter- The Aston, Rijeka's most recent hostel, is situated in the Žabica netom. Vlasnici hostela ranije su na istoj lokaciji bavili iznajmljivanjem district, near the Bus Station. The main advantage of a small hos- apartmana, no zbog velike potražnje za odsjedanjem u hostelima, malo tel with two double-bedded rooms, one seven-bedded room, a su promijenili djelatnost. bathroom and a common living room is the vicinity of the bus and railway stations as well as of the port. It is easily detected for tour- Članstvo u Hrvatskom ferijalnom i hostelskom savezu odnosno Ho- ists immediately after they arrive in Rijeka, whilst it is only two stelling internationalu donijet će vam jeftiniji smještaj u 4000 umreže- minutes away from the main pedestrian way, the Korzo. The As- nih hostela u 90 država svijeta, ali i brojna nova poznanstva, druženja i ton Hostel was opened in mid-March, the first to sleep there were zabave po čemu su poznati i riječki hosteli. Canadians traveling through Rijeka. Accommodation costs from 115 kuna for the seven-bedded room and 330 in the double rooms. Two rooms overlook the Rijeka port aquatorium. In the common rooms, guests have a kitchen where can cook at their disposal, and they can relax with the television and use internet free of charge in the living room. The hostel owners previously rented apartments in the same location, but owing to the high demand for hostel accommodation, they changed their activity. Membership of the Croatian Youth Hostel Association and Hos- telling International will provide you with cheaper accommodation in 4000 networked hostels in 90 countries worldwide, and will also offer you the possibility of making many new friendships, and gaining access to parties and entertainment for which Rijeka hostels are well known. 38 Novi grad / New city Piše / Written by: Silvija Vidović

Začude li se Riječani nečemu, začut ćete uzvik "Šta da??". Ta je fraza toliko ustaljena u Rijeci, da je postala gotovo suvenir. If people from Rijeka are surprised about something, Šta da? then you will hear the phrase "Šta da??" meaning "Really??". This phrase has become so established Really? in Rijeka that it has even become a souvenir.

Krenete li od Gradske knjižnice prema Mrtvome kanalu If you are headed from the City Library towards the Mrtvi niz ulicu Matije Gupca, među prvim stvarima koje ćete Channel, along Matije Gupca Street, the first things you will primijetiti su simpatični, šareni bicikli "parkirani" uz rub notice are the lovely, colourful bikes "parked" by the road- kolnika. Ukoliko zastanete kako biste ih bolje promotrili, side. And if you stop to examine them closely, you will dis- otkrit ćete da se iza njih nalaze još upečatljiviji izlozi u ko- cover even more impressive shop-windows behind them in jima Vas dočekuju šareni odjevni predmeti, torbe izrađene which you will be welcomed by colourful clothes, bags made od nesvakidašnjih materijala i vesele krpene lutke. I za- of unusual materials and cheerful rag dolls. After all this, it ista je teško odoljeti porivu da uđete i provjerite o čemu je will be really hard to resist the impulse to enter and take a točno riječ! look at what it is all really about! Dućan Happy Hobby je projekt koji The Happy Hobby shop – a project je, prema riječima njegove vlasnice which, according to its owner, Amna Amne Šehović, iznikao iz ljubavi pre- Šehović, cropped up from a love of ma recikliranju te zdravom i održivom recycling and a healthy and sustain- načinu života. Tako se u rukama ove able life style. In this way, in the hands svestrane umjetnice, nepoželjni "ot- of this versatile artist, undesirable pad" poput automobilskih guma i "waste" such as car tyres and lorry kamionskih cerada pretvara u jed- covers transform into unique works instvena umjetnička djela. U našem of art. In our hyper-consumer society hiperkonzumerističkom društvu u ko- in which we no longer know what to jemu više ne znamo što bismo od silnoga smeća kojeg proiz- do with the huge amounts of rubbish we produce, it really vodimo, ovo je zaista hvale vrijedan pothvat – udahnuti novi is a praiseworthy project - to breathe new life using the ob- život predmetima koje smo iskoristili i otpisali. Sve se može jects we have already used and written off. Everything can upotrijebiti kao materijal za izradu ovih umjetničkih djela be used as a material for the production of a work of art - – vunene majice "s greškom" prekrajaju se u nove, kopije woollen jumpers with "faults" are retailored into new ones, starih dnevnih novina postaju torbe, a kartoni mlijeka pret- old copies of daily newspapers become bags and milk car- varaju se u bilježnice. Pritom nije slučajnost da su potonja tons become notebooks. At the same time, it is not a coinci- dva predmeta iznikla iz prepoznatljivih riječkih "brandova" dence that the latter two objects have become recognizable 39 budući da je čitav dućan uvelike inspiriran našim gradom na Rječini. Duh sa riječkih cesta pretače se u uporabne predm- ete, a svi umjetnici čija se djela prodaju u dućanu obavezno moraju biti – iz Rijeke.

Šta ne da da? Od tipično riječkih predmeta, najviše plijene pozornost šarene majice i bedževi sa tom sveprisutnom poštapali- com Riječana, frazom koju smo skloni ugurati kako u pi- tanja tako i u odgovore, pa i u skoro sve drugo ako to tako poželimo – "šta da?". A tu su i ostali standardi riječkoga uličnog idioma poput "šta ne da da" i "nema problema", te bedž lokalpatriotskoga ponosa – "Made in Rijeka". Tako na jednoj torbi, umjesto sveprisutnoga "Made in China", nalazimo toplu poruku autohtonosti i bliskosti – šivano u Rijeci, s puno ljubavi. U svakom slučaju, riječ je o suvenirima s mnogo više "duše" od generičnih ki- pića gradskih znamenitosti s natpisom "Rijeka". A kako Šehović veli, upravo su turisti među prvima prepoznali vrijednost takvih jedinstvenih proizvoda, cijeneći osje- ćaj da su, kao uspomenu na svoje putovanje, kupili ne- što izvorno i originalno. Nije naodmet napomenuti da su cijene više nego pristupačne, osobito ako se uzme u obzir da je riječ o unikatima koji nerijetko od svojih stvaratelja zahtijevaju mnogo truda. Sve u svemu, ako vam se iz bilo kojeg razloga prohtije kući sa sobom ponijeti komadić Rijeke – bilo da ga želite nositi na prsima, na leđima ili njime ukrasiti svoj dom – došli ste na pravo mjesto! Rijeka "brands", as the entire shop is primarily inspired by our town lying on the Rječina River. The spirit of the streets of Rijeka is turned into usable objects and all artists whose works are sold in this shop must originate from Rijeka.

Šta ne da da? (Really indeed?) Amongst the typical Rijeka objects, the most attention is drawn to the colourful T-shirts and badges with the all-per- vasive Rijeka people's prop-phrase which we tend to use as a form of a question, answer and in everything else we want - "šta da?" (really?). Here other standards of Rijeka slang can also be found such as "šta ne da da" (really indeed?) and "nema problema" (no problem) as well as the local patriotic badge – "made in Rijeka". So on one of the bags, instead of the omnipresent "made in China", we can find this warm autochthonous and intimate message – sewed with lots of love in Rijeka. However, these are souvenirs with a lot more "soul" then the generic statues of city curiosities with the inscription "Rijeka" on them. And as Šehović claims, the tourists were the first ones to recognise the value of these unique products, appreciating the feeling of buying an original and authentic souvenir of their trip. It doesn’t hurt to consider the prices which are more than acceptable, especially if we consider that these are unique objects that usually demand a great deal of effort from their creators. All things considered, if for any reason, you wish to take a piece of Rijeka home with you – whether you want to carry it on your finger, on your back or you prefer to decorate your home with it – you have come to just the right place! 40 Novi grad / New city Piše / Written by: Barbara Cakar

Imate li četveronožnog prijatelja koji voli more i kupanje, Plaža za pse ovdje je dobrodošao If you have a four-legged friend na Kantridi who loves sea and swimming then he is welcome here too Dog beach on Kantrida

Slijedeći svjetske trendove i upotpunjujući turističku po- Following world trends and completing the tourist offer, in nudu, Rijeka je sredinom prošle godine na 500 četvornih the middle of last year, Rijeka got its own dog beach which ex- metara ispod nogometnog stadiona na Kantridi dobila tends over 500 square metres and is located under the soccer plažu za pse. Čupave ili dotjerane, tihe ili glasne, mislioce stadium on Kantrida. Regardless of whether our four-legged ili radnike... sve koje volimo jer s njima živimo već tisuć- friends are hairy or knotty, quiet or loud, thinkers or doers…we ljećima. Tako u klimatskim blagodatima grada na Rječi- love them all as we have been living with them for centuries. ni i okruženju koje je izvanredno dostupno brodovima, The climatic benefits of the town that lies on the Rječina River 41 automobilima, željeznicom i zrakoplovima, sada mogu uživati i vlasnici četveronožnih ljubimaca, svi oni koji misle jednako kao i Louis Armstrong da „kratkim maha- njem repom, pas može izraziti više osjećaja nego čovjek višesatnim govorom“. Čisto more, ugostiteljski sadržaji, šljunčane, stjenovite i betonske površine za upijanje sun- čeve energije i mirisa Mediterana nedvojbeno će privući sve one kojima je upravo pas najbolji prijatelj i utjelovlje- nje radosti i vjernosti, kao i one kojima kućni ljubimci ne smetaju. Osim sunčališta, uređen je i prilaz u more, a postavljena ploča jasno pokazuje o čijem je terenu riječ i da su ljubimci na toj lokaciji itekako dobrodošli. Da bi pseći komfor bio potpun, na zapadnom dijelu plaže uz prilaz u more smješten je i tuš sa slavinom i gumenim crijevom za pranje, pa vlasnici svog psa, nakon užitka u plivanju, mogu i istuširati. Dakako, vlasnici pasa svjesni su pravila kojih se treba pridržavati, prije svega dovoditi ga i držati na uzi- ci, sa sobom imati sav pribor potreban za održavanja hi- and its surrounding areas which are excellently connected gijene, očistiti njegov izmet te isprati mjesto na kojem je by boats, cars, trains and planes, can now be enjoyed by pet mokrio. Podsjetimo kako je to jedna od 20 riječkih plaža owners too - all those who think like Louis Armstrong: A dog od Preluka do Grčeva navedenih u dvojezičnoj brošuri ri- can express more with his tail in seconds than his owner can ječke Turističke zajednice, koja donosi informacije o tome express with his tongue in hours”. The clean sea, catering fa- koje plaže nose Plavu zastavu, na kojima postoje kafići i cilities, pebbles, rocky and concrete surfaces for absorbing the restorani, tobogani, ali i infrastruktura za odbojku na pi- Sun’s energy as well as the Mediterranean smells, will certainly jesku, vaterpolo ili košarku na vodi, te kojim se gradskim attract all those who consider their dog to be their best friend autobusnim linijama može doći do pojedinih plaža. Ova za and who is a personification of joy and loyalty together with all pse dokaz je da Rijeka osluškuje potrebe svojih sugrađa- those who are not particularly bothered by pets. Besides the na i gostiju, nastojeći svima osigurati potreban prostor, pa sunbathing area, there is even access to the sea and there is a tako i našim ljubimcima koji zauzimaju značajno mjesto clear signpost stating that pets are more than welcome in the u životima mnogih, a utječu i na poboljšanje čovjekova area set aside for them. To complete the dog’s comfort, on the zdravlja. Kako navodi izvješće objavljeno 2005. u British western part of the beach, by the approach to the sea, there is Medical Journal, psi služe kao „sociološki katalizatori“ što a shower with a tap and a rubber hose for washing. In this way stvara veću interakciju među ljudima, te umanjuje osjećaj owners can wash their dog, after he has finished swimming and usamljenosti, posebice među starijima. Vlasnici pasa se enjoying the sea. Of course, dog owners must be aware of the također bolje nose sa stresnim situacijama, a životinje im rules they have to obey. First of all they have to bring and keep pomažu i da izbjegnu bolesti povezane s anksioznošću. their dogs on a leash, have all the necessary tools for maintain- Stoga će zasigurno biti i zadovoljni kada se osobno uvjere ing hygiene, clean up any excrement and wash the area where da je i Rijeka, po uzoru na poznate svjetske turističke de- the dog has urinated. Let’s mention that this is just one of the stinacije, spremna za "pasje vrućine". 20 beaches in Rijeka that extend from Preluk to Grčevo to be listed in the bilingual brochure published by the Rijeka Tour- ist Board bringing information regarding which beaches have the Blue Flag award, which beaches host bars and restaurants, water-slides as well as infrastructure for beach volley, water- polo or water basketball and which bus lines reach each single beach. This dog beach is proof that Rijeka has listened to the needs of its citizens and guests, trying to ensure the necessary space for everyone as well as for our pets. Pets play an important role in many people’s lives and, besides that, influence the improvement of our health conditions. According to a report published in 2005 in the British Medical Journal, dogs are used as “sociological catalysts” resulting in better interac- tion amongst people and decreasing the feeling of loneliness, especially amongst older people. Dog owners also deal with stressful situations better, whilst animals help them to avoid illnesses connected to anxiety. So they will certainly be satis- fied when they learn that even Rijeka, following the example of famous world tourist destinations, amongst other things, is now ready for the very hot weather. 42 Novi grad / New city Piše / Written by: Branka Malnar

Brodograditeljske vještine vraćaju se u Rijeku kroz vrijedne ruke ovdašnjih majstora Shipbuilding skills are returning to Rijeka from the hard-working hands of local craftsmen

Barke, brodovi, lađe Boats, ships, vessels 43

Ne umanjujući ostale vrijednosti, cjelokupna povijest Ri- Without diminishing other values, the entire history of jeke i Kvarnera mogla bi se svesti na staru latinsku izreku Rijeka and Kvarner could be reduced to the old Latin say- "navigare necesse est" jer su stanovnici ovih obala oduvi- ing "navigare necesse est" because the inhabitants of these jek bili vezani i upućeni na more. Škrta zemlja podmiri- coasts have always been bound and directed by the sea. vala je tek manji dio potreba, ali je zato more i sve vezano Poor soil was enough for only a small part of the local peo- uz njega to nadoknađivalo. Počnimo od prethistorije. Prvo ple’s needs needs, but the sea and everything connected rukom izrađeno plovilo bijaše monoksil, izdubljeno deblo with it compensated that lack. Let's start from prehistoric koje se u našim krajevima zove ladva. Jedna od njih saču- times. The first hand-made vessel was the so called monok- vana je u Franjevačkom samostanu na otočiću Košljunu sil, a hollowed out tree trunk that in our region is known as kraj Punta. U ladvi se najprije veslalo rukama, potom su a ladva. One of them has been preserved in the Franciscan ih zamijenila vesla, a primjer prijelaza iz primitivne grad- monastery situated on the islet of Košljun, near Punat. The nje u konstrukcijsku je nadogradnja madira. Primjer za je ladva was paddled first using only hand power, the hands to je rapska laja (lađa), brodica čija se replika zahvaljuju- were then replaced by oars whilst a good example of tran- ći rapskim entuzijastima i kasnijom potporom institucija sition from a primitive construction to a structural one sada gradi. Rapska laja bit će jedna od zvijezda Kvarner- was the upgrading by using the so called madire (a sort of skog festivala mora što će se u Mrtvom kanalu i riječkoj transversal rib structure). A good example this is the Rap- luci održati od 6. do 10. lipnja. Manifestacija je nastavak ska laja (the island of Rab’s craft), a vessel whose replica is prošlogodišnje inicijative "Oživimo Mrtvi kanal", koju je in the process of being built thanks to enthusiasts from Rab uz suradnju s ostalim udrugama organizirala udruga Pro and the subsequent support of local institutions. The Rap- torpedo. Naime taj dio grada, staro korito Rječine, kroz ska laja will be one of the stars of the Kvarner Sea Festival povijest je bila gradska žila kucavica. Tu su uplovljavali which will take place on the Mrtvi kanal and in the port of drveni brodovi i brodice. Naravno tu se i trgovalo. Danas je Rijeka from 6th to 10th June. This event is a continuation of taj prostor, stiješnjen među prometnicama, zamro no nje- last year's initiative "Revive Mrtvi Kanal" (Dead Channel), govim oživljavanjem mogao bi postati atraktivna lokacija organized by the Pro torpedo Association in collaboration za građane i turiste - Povijesni pomorski muzej. Festival with other such organisations. This part of town, the old mora stepenica je više prema tom naumu. Rječina river bed, over history was the lifeblood of this city. Mrtvi kanal u tim će danima vratiti tradicijska plovila uz Wooden ships and boats sailed in here. Of course, it was also svoje obale, stara jedra na gucima, pasarama, batanama...a a trading place. Today this area, squeezed in between the na obali radionice mornarskih vještina, ribarska i nautička, roads, has become extinct but its revival could become an 44

brodomaketarska te radionica tradicijske brodogradnje. attractive location for both local citizens and tourists with Okupit će se tu još ono malo kalafata, zanimanja koje ne- the Historical Maritime Museum. The Festival of the Sea is staje kao što nestaje i drvena brodogradnja. Radionice su just a step closer to that idea. iznimno važne jer se na njima prenose vještine, a nestanu During that period, traditional vessels will return along the li ljudi koji njima vladaju zauvijek će nestati i one. Hrvat- banks of the Mrtvi kanal , the old sails on the fishing boats, ska zasad ima zavidnu drvenu flotu, naglasak je na zasad, known as guce, pasare, batane... whilst on the shore sailing jer opasnost nestanka već prijeti. U Francuskoj se to do- skills workshops will take place, together with fishing and godilo krajem 20 stoljeća i kako bi spasili što se spasiti da, boating, master boat modelling workshops and a work- pokrenuli su projekt prema kojemu svaki grad i mjesto uz shop of traditional shipbuilding. There will also be a small more treba sačuvati tradicijsko plovilo ili izraditi repli- number of kalafati (old masters who due to their age or ill ku nekog od jedrenjaka, a kalafate su proglasili državnim health are no longer able to build boats themselves but can majstorima restauratorima i pod njihovim vodstvom sa- assist with their knowledge and skills), a profession that gradili repliku jednog jedrenjaka iz 19. stoljeća. is disappearing in the same way the wooden shipbuilding Kvarner u Brestu trade has done. Workshops are extremely important because skills can be transferred and if the people with those To je bio i početak festivala mora u Brestu u kojem se ta pass away without having transferred them, they will dis- manifestacija od 1992. održava svake četvrte godine. Da- appear forever. For now Croatia has an impressive wooden nas je to svojevrsna olimpijada tradicijskih brodova iz fleet but the emphasis is on for now as the danger of its dis- cijelog svijeta koju posjeti milijun posjetitelja. Na njoj će appearance is already threatening. In France it happened se ove godine po prvi put predstaviti Primosko-goranska in the late 20th century and in order to save what could županije sa pet plovila: rapskom lajom, krčkima pasarom be saved, they initiated a project according to which every i gucom te lovranskima gucom i pasarom. Za sudionike će town and place along the coast had to preserve a traditional nastup u Brestu biti i prilika da shvate koliko se u Europi craft or make a replica of a sailing ship. The Kalafati were njeguje pomorska baština i vrate ponos što smo i mi dio te proclaimed state master craftsmen and restorers and un- velike zajednice zaljubljenika u more i brodove. der their guidance built a replica of a sailing ship from the Ovogodišnji odlazak u Brest na neki je način kompenzacija 19th century. za propuštenu priliku 2008. Naime tada je grupa entuzij- sta željela sagraditi Liburnu, brod koji je obilježio svjetsku Kvarner in Brest pomorsku povijest. That was the start of the Brest Sea Festival, the place where 45

Liburni that event has been taking place every four years since 1992. Liburni, drevni pomorski narod, nastanio se u ovom na- Today it is a sort of Olympics of traditional boats from all around the world, which is visited by millions of visitors. For šem kraju od ušća Raše do ušća Krke negdje oko 8. stoljeća the first time this year, Primorje and Gorski kotar County prije naše ere. Svi antički tekstovi koji spominju Liburne will present five vessels there: Rab’s laja, Krk’s pasara and navode ih kao priznate tradicionalne pomorce. Imali su guca and Lovran’s guca and pasara. This performance in nazive za dvije tisuće zvijezda što dokazuje da su plovili Brest will be an opportunity for participants to understand puno dalje od Sjevernog Jadrana. Uz plovidbu su se bavi- how much maritime heritage is encouraged in Europe and li ribarstvom, trgovinom (jantarski put) i - gusarstvom. to return the pride in being part of this great community of Zbog orkanske bure koja je tu uobičajena, a koju spominju sea and ship lovers. i Rimljani, Liburni su morali smisliti brze, čvrste i nepoto- pive brodove za njihovo olujno more. Stoga su u rimskom This year's trip to Brest is in some way compensation for Mediteranu rabili najviše raznovrsnih brodskih tipova od the missed opportunity in 2008. That year a group of en- kojih potječu i neki današnji nazivi plovila na Jadranu, Sre- thusiasts took the Liburna, a ship that marked the world's dozemlju i šire. Drakofori sa zmajskom glavom na pramcu maritime history. i krmi bili su desantni ratni brodovi poznati kao kasniji Liburnians vikinški drakkari. Liburnae bijahu bojni brodovi, dvove- slarke koje su kasnije kopirali Rimljani sagradivši galiju The Liburnians, an ancient maritime nation, settled this Liburnu. Tu je i Galaia - veći transportno-trgovački brod area extending from the estuary of Raša to the mouth of tj. prototip i imenjak kasnijih srednjovjekovnih galija, pa Krka, somewhere around the 8th century BC. All the ancient documents in which the Liburnians were mentioned, Lembul, manji i brzi ribarski brod prototip i imenjak le- speak about them as recognized traditional seafarers. They uta i Paros - manja brodica za prijevoz i lokalni ribolov had names for two thousands stars which proved that they prethodnik i imenjak današnje barke. Zanimljivo je da su had sailed far beyond the North Adriatic. Besides sailing, liburnijska plovila rađena tzv. šivanom gradnjom - rimski they were also occupied in the fishing, trade (Amber Road) povjesničari opisuju liburnijska plovila sljedećim riječi- and in piracy. Owing to the hurricane storms which were ma: "I nikakav tesarski klin ne drži na okupu sklop brod- common in this area at the time and also mentioned by skog trupa nego je on šivan lanenom i žukovom užadi". the Romans, the Liburnians had to invent fast, rugged and Nažalost, osim povjesničarima razdoblje vladavine Li- unsinkable ships for their stormy seas. Therefore, in the burna većini je nepoznata. Ovaj je festival jedan od načina Roman part of the Mediterranean a variety of vessel types 46

da ih bolje upoznamo. Kroz pomorsku baštinu, kroz prava žena (ginekokracija) – kažu ne bez razloga "Amazonke su legende, Liburne su povijest".Tu je i spomen najboljeg maslinova ulja iz rimskih vremena Oleum Liburnicum u Apicijevoj zbirci rimskih recepata. Naravno, ne zaboravi- mo bačve - prvi pisani spomen tih drvenih posuda za drža- nje vina dolazi s Krka. Za bitke između Cezarovih i Pom- peja, od bačava je napravljena splav kojom su se kohorte prebacile na kopno. A Rijeka je dugo kroz povijest nosila prefiks Liburnijski grad. Kvarnerski festival mora prilika je za vraćanje i toga dijela pomorske povijesti grada i kraja. Jer ne vrijedi se di- čiti tuđim, za povijest Grčke ideš u Atenu, Rimljana u Rim, a Liburna u Rijeku i naš liburnijski kraj.

were used from which a number of the modern names of today’s boats on the Adriatic, the Mediterranean and further afield orginate. The so calleddrakofori with its Dragon head at the bow and the stern were landing warships later known as Viking Drakkars. The Liburnae were battle ships, with two oars which were later copied by the Romans who built the galleon, Liburna. There is also the Galaia – a greater cargo and merchant ship, that is a prototype and namesake of later medieval galleys, followed by the Lembul, a small and quick fishing boat, which was the prototype and namesake of the Leut and Paros - small boats that were used for transport and local fishing, precursors and namesakes of today's boats. It is interesting that Liburnian vessels were constructed using the sewed construction method. Roman historians described Liburnian vessels using the following words: "And no carpenter’s pin can hold together the entire hull, but it is embroidered by linen and Weaver's Broom ropes". Unfortunately, apart from the historians, the Liburnian governing period is unknown to most people. This festival is one of great occasions to learn something more about them. Through their maritime heritage and women’s rights (gynocracy) – is said, not without reason, "Amazon women are legendary, Liburnians are history." Not forgetting the registration regarding the best olive oil from Roman times, the Oleum Liburnicum, used in Apicius’ collection of Roman recipes. Of course, we should not forget the barrels - the first written records about those wooden recep- tacles for keeping wine comes from Krk. Battles between Caesar’s and Pompey’s soldiers used these barrels to make rafts which helped the cohorts to transfer themselves to the mainland. For a long time during its history, Rijeka carried the prefix the Liburnian city. The Kvarner Sea festival is an opportunity to restore that part of the maritime history of both the town and the region. It is not worth being proud of something which is not yours. For the history of Greece you should go to Athens, to learn about the Romans you should go to Rome and to discover the Liburnians you have to go to Rijeka and our Liburnian area. Low Cost International Calls CALL CARD All over the world / Za sve svjetske destinacije

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Info desk: 042 408 600 ● www.callcard.hr 48 Novi grad / New city Piše / Written by: Loreta Parkelj Fotografije / Photos: Muzej grada Rijeke / Rijeka City Museum

Zbirka od 40 satova dio je bogatog fundusa Muzeja grada Rijeke, a povjesničarka umjetnosti dr. Vesna Lovrić Plantić javnosti će ju predstaviti u studenom ove godine izložbom "Oblici vremena". Unatoč činjenici što mnogi među njima ne rade, njihova ljepota time nije umanjena. Čak naprotiv, svaki primjerak predstavlja zasebnu priču izuzetno vrijednu na tržištu umjetnina. Riječ je o stolnim, kaminskim, zidnim i podnim satovima različitog tipa i različitih provenijencija, najviše srednjeeuropskoga podrijetla, točnije iz Beča, ali tu će se naći i primjerci francuskih i američkih satova, koji su svojedobno također pristizali u Primorje i na riječko po- dručje od 18. pa sve do polovice 20. stoljeća. Ravnatelj Mu- zeja grada Rijeke Ervin Dubrović navodi kako ova zbirka nije obimna, ali je sustavno prikupljana i osmišljavana Oblici vremena Shapes of time

This collection of 40 clocks is part of the rich Rijeka City Museum’s holdings whilst the art historian, Dr. Vesna Lovrić Plantić, will present it to the public in November this year as part of the "Shapes of Time" exhibition. In spite of the fact that most of them are no longer functional, their beauty has not been diminished. Indeed, each sample represents an individual story that is extremely valuable on the works of art market. We are talking about a variety of table, fireplace, wall and pavement clocks from various origins, predominantly from Central Europe, and more precisely from Vienna. However, you will also be able to find samples of French and American clocks here which, at some time in the past, arrived in the Coast- al areas and in the area of Rijeka from some time in 49

prema profilu Muzeja – zavičajni i povijesni - u namjeri da the 1700s until the first half of the 20th century. The Rijeka se satovima oslika bitan fenomen trgovačkog i poslovnog City Museum’s director, Ervin Dubrović points out that duha moderne Rijeke. No, geslo "vrijeme je novac", dodaje this collection is not large, but the items have been col- Dubrović, govori samo pola istine. Druga polovica leži u či- lected systematically and worked out to suit the Museum’s njenici da su satovi i dragocjen ukras, odraz ukusa i moguć- – landscape and historical – profile and with the intention nosti građana; svojevrstan statusni simbol. Razvoj i sve veća of illustrating an important phenomenon of the merchant dostupnost kućnih satova poklapa se s usponom građan- and business spirit of modern Rijeka using clocks. How- stva, a Rijeka je već krajem osamnaestog stoljeća dostigla ever the proverb "time is money", adds Dubrović, is only svoj prvi uspon. Bila su to prava umjetnička djela, nerijet- half of the truth. The other half lies in the fact that clocks ko izrađena od skupocjenih materijala poput kornjačevine, are a precious decoration as well, a reflection of the taste pozlaćene bronce, mramora, mjeda i sl. and possibilities of local citizens; a kind of status Dr. Lovrić Plantić kao najbolja hrvatska symbol. The development and growing availability poznavateljica starih sa- of home clocks concurs with the rise tova ovom će izložbom, of the middle classes, whilst Rijeka među ostalim, po- reached its first ascent at the end sjetitelje upoznati of the 18th century. These were s činjenicom da su real works of art, often created out prvi mehanički satovi of precious materials such as turtle- nastali u 13. stoljeću u shell, gilded bronze, marble, brass europskim zemljama and other analogous materials. As Italiji i Engleskoj i to kao the best Croatian connoisseur of an- veliki javni satovi u crkve- cient clocks, Dr. Lovrić Plantić will nom ili gradskom tornju. introduce visitors, amongst other Prije njih postojali su samo things, to the fact that the first me- sunčani i pješčani satovi chanical clocks were created in 13th kao jedini mjerači vreme- century in the European countries of na. Tek napuštanjem ze- Italy and England and in the form of mljoradnje i pojavom pre- large public clocks on church or city ciznijih obveza, gradova i towers. Before them, just sun dials industrije, satovi postaju and hour glasses were the only time privatna stvar i dobivaju gauges in existence. Only when peo- manji oblik. Satovi koje će ple abandoned agricultural activi- posjetitelji moći vidjeti na ties and when precise works in cities izložbi uglavnom su kućni, and industries appeared, did clocks vezani uz reprezentativ- become a private thing and were cre- ne prostore plemićkih i ated in smaller shapes. The clocks građanskih kuća that will be presented to visitors at i stanova, a go- the exhibition are mainly house vore o bogatstvu clocks linked to the representa- i ukusu njihovih tive areas of the noblemen’s and vlasnika kojima citizens’ houses and apartments je sat bio je- that tell of the wealth and taste of dan od važni- their owners who considered jih statusnih clocks to be one of the most im- simbola. portant status symbols. 50 Novi grad / New city Piše / Written by: Ljiljana Mamić Pandža

Luka 02 / Harbour 02 Marcus Doyle, 2010

Rijeka Foto Festival

"Semantički okviri pejzažne fotografije od pedesetih godina "Semantic frames of landscape photography from the 1950s un- 20. stoljeća do danas" naziv je izložbe kojom će u studenom til the present day" is the name of the exhibition which will open, ove godine biti otvoren treći Rijeka Foto Festival; manife- in November 2012, the third edition of the Rijeka Photo Festival; stacija koja već prerasta u tradicionalno događanje i jedan an event that has already became a tradition and one of the key od ključnih festivala fotografije ovog dijela Europe. Orga- photographic festivals in this part of Europe. Its organizers, the nizatori, Muzej moderne i suvremene umjetnosti i Muzej Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art and the Rijeka City grada Rijeke i ove će godine okupiti najznačajnija imena Museum will this year too, bring the most important names of domaće i inozemne fotografske scene. Za navedenu izlož- the local and foreign photography scene together. Apart from bu je kustosica Sabina Salamon odabrala različite autorske this exhibition, the curator, Sabina Salamon has chosen a va- pristupe protagonista od poslijeratne fotografije do suvre- riety of approaches to the subject, from post-war photogra- menih izričaja, uključujući najnovije akvizicije autora kao phy to contemporary expressions, including the most recent što su Josip Klarica, Tošo Dabac, Fedor Vučemilović, San- acquisitions from authors such as Josip Klarica, Tošo Dabac, dra Vitaljić, Ranko Dokmanović, Boris Cvjetanović, Marcus Fedor Vučemilović, Sandra Vitaljić, Ranko Dokmanović, Boris Doyle, Isabelle Hayeur, Sofija Silvia, Chrystel Lebas. "Evi- Cvjetanović, Marcus Doyle, Isabelle Hayeur, SofijaSilvia and dentno je da se pejzaž mijenjao sukladno pogledu na čovje- Chrystel Lebas. Obviously, the landscape has changed in accord- kovu poziciju u svijetu, od tamnih raspoloženja pod utjeca- ance with the view of the human's position in the world, from jem egzistencijalizma 50-tih godina do suvremenih viđenja dark moods under the influence of existentialism in 1950s to krajolika kao fantazme o idealnom pejzažu na jednoj strani contemporary views of landscapes such as the fantasy regarding ili pak zapuštenih obezljudenih, nadrealnih prostransta- an ideal landscape on one side, or abandoned, people less, sur- va. Pejzaž u fotografiji određen je kontekstom čovjekova real spaces. The landscape in the photography is determined by raspoloženja prema svijetu, viđenjem sebe unutar vlastite the context of the individual’s mood in relation to the world, by okoline, stupnjevanje od naselja, grada, regije, kontinenta, seeing himself within his own surroundings, grading from settle- do čitavog eko sustava", navodi Salamon. Druga izložba koja ments, towns, regions, continents to the entire eco system, Sala- će posjetitelji moći razgledati u vrijeme Rijeka foto festiva- mon says. The other exhibition open to visitors during the Rijeka la nosi naziv "Turistički krajolici": zona koegzistirajućih Photo Festival is called Tourist Landscapes: a Zone of Coexisting 51 transformacija/Tourist Lan- Transformations by the Dutch dscapes: Zone of coexisting author, Dik Bouwhuis. It is an transformations" nizozem- exhibition of 70 colour photo- skog autora Dika Bouwhuisa. graphs prepared together by Ri- Riječ je o izložbi 70 fotografija jeka's Museum of Modern and u boji koju zajednički pripre- Contemporary Art and the Zuc- maju riječki MMSU i Galerija cato Gallery from Poreč. The Zuccato iz Poreča. Autor pro- author observes the landscape matra krajolik duž turističke Crvena lada / Red Lada along the Mediterranean Coast linije Mediteranske obale. Marcus Doyle, 2010 tourist line. He singles out the Zapaža kako je na mnogo na- landscape by transforming it in čina riječ o krajoliku transformacije. Bivajući pod stalnom many ways. Being under continuous reconstruction since the obnovom od Drugog svjetskog rata nadalje, navodi Sala- Second World War onwards, specifies Salamon, the edge of the mon, Mediteranski rub obale se postupno razvio u najveću Mediterranean coast has developed gradually in the largest ur- urbanizacijsku cjelinu na kontinentu (Europi). Prognoza ban unit of the continent (Europe). According to the Blue Plan Blue Plana (Program Ujedinjenih naroda za okoliš, Medi- prognosis (United Nations’ Environment programme, Mediter- teranski akcijski plan) pokazuje da će ovaj krajolik u 2025. ranean Activity plan) in 2025 this landscape will be inhabited by godini naseljavati oko 205 milijuna privremenih stanov- around 205 million temporary inhabitants, together with 350 nika, zajedno sa 350 milijuna turista godišnje. Simbolično million tourists per year. Symbolically speaking, the entire Med- rečeno, ukupan prostor Mediterana postojat će kao 'line- iterranean area will exist as a several thousand mile long "linear arni grad', trenutačne duljine od više tisuća milja, od juga city" spread from the south of Portugal to the northern Croatian Portugala do sjeverne obale Hrvatske, te od juga Turske do coast and from the south of Turkey to northern Greece. With sjevera Grčke. S obzirom na trenutni porast turizma duž regard to the current increase in tourist flow along the Albanian albanske obale, linearni gradovi će se u budućnosti spojiti. coast, in the future, linear cities will be united. In this way, we will Na taj se način dolazi do postupnog preobražavanja u prvi arrive at a gradual metamorphosis of the first true European city istinski europski grad - Europolis. Konglomerat ljetovališta - Europolis. A conglomerate of summer resorts connected in a povezanih na linearan način vidljiv je kao lanac svjetlosti linear way is visible as a chain of light around the Mediterranean oko Sredozemnoga mora na noćnim fotografijama iz - NA Sea on the night photos taken from NASA satellites. Amongst SA-inih satelita. Između ostalog, kustosica Muzeja grada others, the Rijeka City Museum’s curator, Sabrina Žigo, within Rijeke, Sabrina Žigo, u okviru Rijeka foto festivala pripre- the Rijeka Photo Festival, has prepared a historical exhibition ma povijesnu izložbu iz fundusa fotografija te ustanove koji which will include the photography holdings of this institute sadrži više od 6000 fotografija, bilježeći riječku situaciju od comprising more than 6000 photographs marking the situation poraća do devedesetih godina prošloga stoljeća. in Rijeka from the post-war period until the 1990s.

Rafinerija nafte / Oil rafinery Marcus Doyle, 2010 Fotografije: Muzej moderne i suvremene umjetnosti, Rijeka / Photos: Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Rijeka 52 Novi grad / New city Piše / Written by: Lidija Šušak

Prijestupna je godina, godina je Olimpi- I Riječani će ove godine u jade. Sportaši iz cijeloga svijeta protekle Londonu braniti boje Hrvatske četiri godine naporno su trenirali, a oni najuspješniji će od 27. srpnja do 12. ko- Rijeka citizens will also be lovoza nastupiti u Londonu i oči cijelog defending the colours of svijeta bit će uprte u njih. London je je- Croatia in London this year dini grad na svijetu u kojemu će se Olim- pijada održati po treći put.

Olimpijske medalje Kroz povijest, a tako će biti i ove godine u Londonu, na Olimpijadama su uvijek sudjelovali i riječki sportaši. Olimpij- ski duh je u Rijeku tijekom dva stoljeća donosilo 70-tak sportaša, a njih 16 se u Rijeku vratilo s olimpijskom medaljom oko vrata. To su Ivica Jobo Curtini, zatim Zdravko Ćiro Kovačić, Valter Ma- tošević, Alvaro Načinović, Aramis Na- glić, Zoran Roje, Dejan Dabović, Mirza Džomba, Nenad Gračan, Igor Hinić, Damir Glavan, Valner Franković, Zoran Mustur, Frane Nonković, Ivan Ljubičić i jedina sportašica, Snježana Pejčić. U Rijeci su tako dom pronašle nogometne, rukometne, teniske i vaterpolske medalje, a jedinu riječku i prvu žensku hrvatsku medalju na ljetnim olimpijskim igrama pogodila je zračnom puškom u Pekingu - Snježana Pejčić.

Riječani u Londonu 1948. Na Olimpijadi u Londonu 1948. sudjelo- Olimpijski duh vali su riječki vaterpolisti, pokojni Ivica Jobo Curtini i Zdravko Ćiro Kovačić. Nekadašnji vaterpolski golman Zdravko Ćiro Kovačić danas ima 87 godina, a na Olimpijadi u Londonu nastupio je kao živi u Rijeci 23. godišnjak. Bile su to njegove prve Olimpijske igre. The olympic spirit lives in Rijeka - Bilo je poslijeratno stanje, vladalo je siromaštvo i nama sportašima je samo putovanje luksuznim vlakom do Lon- dona bilo nešto najuzbudljivije u životu. This is a leap-year, an Olympic year. Athletes from all over the world have been training Pamtim prvi susret sa carinicima koji su hard for the last four years and the most successful among them will take part in Lon- provjeravali švercamo li cigarete i alko- don, from 27th July to 12th August with the entire world following them. London is the hol. Nama su rekli da bi se u Engleskoj only town in the world where the Olympic Games have taken place for the third time. mogla dobro prodati šljivovica i svatko od nas u torbi, koja je bila siromašna Olympic medals opremom, nosio je bocu ili dvije domaće throughout history, as well as this year in London, Rijeka’s athletes have always taken šljivovice. Iako se jednom kolegi razbila part in the Olympic Games. Over two centuries, the Olympic spirit has taken around boca i željezničkom stanicom raširio se 70 athletes from Rijeka, with16 of them coming back wearing Olympic medals around miris rakije, carinici su nas pustili i šlji- their necks. These are Jobo Curtini, Zdravko Ćiro Kovačić, Valter Matošević, Alvaro vovice su ipak došle do do Londona. Ona Načinović, Aramis Naglić, Zoran Roje, Dejan Dabović, Mirza Džomba, Nenad Gračan, nam je povećala džeparac koji nam na Igor Hinić, Damir Glavan, Valner Franković, Zoran Mustur, Frane Nonković and Ivan Olimpijadi iznosio 1 dolar po danu. Ljubičić, and the only woman athlete, Snježana Pejčić. In this way medals for soccer, handball, tennis and water-polo have found their home in Rijeka and the first and only Dočekao nas je poslijeratni, razrušen women’s medal in Rijeka at the summer Olympic Games which was won by Snježana 53 Piše / Written by: Lidija Šušak nimalo glamoruzan London. Englezi su u to vrijeme ima- Pejčić competing with a full hit with her air gun in Beijing. li točkice za hranu. Nije bilo Olimpijskog sela, smjestili su nas u dalekom predgrađu Londona u barake u kojima Rijeka citizens in London 1948 su za vrijeme rata boravili engleski avijatičari. Umivali At the Olympic Games in London 1948, Rijeka’s water-polo players took smo se na vojničkom koritu i sve je to bilo jako skromno part, the late Ivica Jobo Curtini and Zdravko Ćiro Kovačić. The former kada se usporedi sa kasnijim Igrama. Bila je to prva Olim- water-polo goal keeper, Zdravko Ćiro Kovačić, now 87 years old, took pijada nakon rata i na njoj nije bilo sportaša iz Njemačke part in the London Olympic Games as a 23 year old boy and those were i Japana, što je izazvalo veliko negodovanje među spor- his first Olympic Games. tašima jer smo bili jedinstvenog stava da sportaši nisu - It was the post-war period, poverty ruled and the trip by luxury train to nizašto krivi. London was, for us athletes, one of the most exciting periods of our lives. Učinak naših sportaša bio je skroman, ni moja vaterpolo I remember our first meeting with customs officers who were checking momčad nije se proslavila, sjećam se da su nogometaši whether we had smuggled cigarettes or alcohol. We had been told that we osvojili medalju. could sell such things in England for a good price and our sports bags con- Otvaranje se održalo na stadionu na tadašnjem Wem- tained little equipment, leaving space for a bottle or two of homemade bleyu. Za ono vrijeme, bilo je to veličanstveno otvaranje. plum brandy. Although one colleague broke his bottle and the smell of Svaka zemlja se pojedinačno predstavljala. Igre je otvo- brandy steadily diffused through the train station, the customs officers rio kralj George VI - prisjetio se nakon 64 godine riječki let us go and our plum brandies reached London. These bottles increased vaterpolski golman koji je na sljedećim dvjema Olimpija- our pocket money, which for the Olympic Games was 1 dollar a day. dama, 1952. u Helsinkiju i četiri godine kasnije u Melbo- We were welcomed by a post-war, devastated London, not at all the urneu, osvojio dvije srebrne medalje. glamorous city we were expecting, and the British were using a sort of Nekoliko sportaša u Rijeci može se pohvaliti da ima više points system for the purchase of food. There was no Olympic village; od jedne olimpijske medalje, no samo je jedan vlasnik accommodation was provided in distant London suburbs in barracks dva zlata. Riječanin Valter Matošević dva je najsjajnija which, during the war period, had hosted British pilots. We washed our- odličja donio iz Atlante 1996. i Atene 2004. godine. Uz selves in the military baths and everything was very modest compared olimpijska zlata, Matošević je kao vratar rukometne re- to earlier Games. These were the first post-war Olympic Games and prezentacije osvajao i medalje na Europskim i svjetskim there were no athletes from Germany and Japan which caused disap- prvenstvima pa je tako postao najtrofejniji sportaš Gra- proval amongst athletes as we all thought that it was not the athletes' da Rijeke. fault for what had happened. U Londonu ove godine bit će 45-ero sportaša i sportašica The results achieved by our athletes were modest including those of my iz Hrvatske. Riječke boje u Londonu branit će biciklist water-polo team, but I remember that our soccer players won a medal. Robert Kišerlovski, streličarka Snježana Pejčić, te vater- The opening ceremony took place at Wembley stadium, which for that polisti Samir Barač i Igor Hinić. Baraču i Hiniću ovo će period was magnificent and each country was presented individually. biti četvrti nastup na Olimpijadi. The Games were opened by King George VI, remembered after 64 years by Rijeka’s water-polo goal keeper who in the subsequent two Ol- Deveta paraolimpijada ympic Games, the first in 1952 in Helsinki and then four years later in I na Paraolimpijadi Rijeka redovito ima svoje predstavni- Melbourne, won two silver medals. ke. Popis putnika za Paraolimpijadu u Londonu još nije Several athletes from Rijeka can boast of having won more than one Ol- definiran, no jedna od put- ympic medal, but only one has been the owner of two golds. The Rijeka nica u London citizen Valter Matošević brought the two shiniest medals from Atlanta trebala bi biti i in 1996 and from Athens in 2004. Besides his Olympic gold medals, atletičarka Mil- Matošević, as goal keeper of the national handball team, also won med- ka Milinković. als at the European and World Championships and is the City of Rijeka Najtrofejnija athlete to have won the most trophies. hrvatska para- london this year will welcome 45 athletes from Croatia. In London, olimpijka osvo- Rijeka’s colours will be defended by cyclist Robert Kišerlovski, female jila je osam pa- archer Snježana Pejčić and water-polo players Samir Barač and Igor raolimpijskih Hinić. This will be the fourth performance at the Olympic Games for medalja u atle- Barač and Hinić. tici. Ako otpu- tuje u London The ninth Paralympic Games bit će joj to de- Rijeka is also regularly represented at the Paralympic Games. The list veta Paraolim- of passengers for the Paralympic Games in London has not yet been de- pijada, čime bi termined, but one of the participants will probably be the female ath- postala svjetska lete Milka Miliković. This Croatian Paralympic Games athlete with the rekorderka po most trophies has won eight athletics medals. If she travels to London, nastupima na this will be her ninth Paralympics which will make her the world record Paraolimpijadi. holder with regard to performances at the Paralympic Games. 54 Novi grad / New city Piše / Written by: Igor Rivetti

Bazen za skokove upotpunio je kompleks riječkoga bazena A diving pool has completed the Rijeka Swimming Pool Complex

Bazeni tik uz more Swimming pools right by the sea

Kompleks Bazena Kantrida je 2009. godine, kao rezultat In 2009 the Kantrida Swimming Pool Complex won an award arhitektonskog natječaja u organizaciji Međunarodnog for sport and leisure facilities as a result of an architectonic olimpijskog odbora i Međunarodnog udruženja za sportske tender organized by the International Olympic Committee i rekreacijske objekte, osvojio nagradu za sportske i rekre- and the International Association for Sports and Leisure acijske objekte. Bazen je to koji je dobitnik i posebne na- facilities. It is a facility that has also won a special award as- grade Međunarodnoga paraolimpijskog odbora za objekte signed by the International Paralympic Committee for facili- prilagođene osobama s invaliditetom. ties adapted to handicapped people. Brojne nagrade su tako stigle u Rijeku zahvaljujući ba- In this way numerous awards have come to Rijeka thanks zenima, no zbog njih su nagrade i odlazile iz grada jer su to its pools, but also due to their presence numerous awards have left the city too as for a few years now, the complex has hosted numerous athletes in a variety of competitions amongst which was the European Championship in Small Swimming Pools and the final of the water-polo Euro League. Medals were won, and were also created in Kantrida. The impressive Rijeka shell is the place where new, young swimming, water-polo or synchronized swimming pearls appear, whilst this series of sports on Kantrida also continues with diving. Divers have waited patiently and their waiting has finally paid off. They have received, as they say, one of the most beautiful diving pools in the world. Architects can claim responsibility for one part whilst the other must be claimed by nature. From the top of the tower whose colours change according to the sun a magnificent view extends over the Kvarner Bay whose blueness is dis- turbed only by a few small islands. Spectators on the stands with 400 seats in this way experience the beautiful scenic 55 bazeni, stari svega nekoliko godina, ugostili brojne sportaše na natjecanjma, među kojima su bili i Europsko prvenstvo u plivanju u malim bazenima te završnica vaterpolske Eu- rolige. Medalje su odlazile, no medalje se i stvaraju na Kan- tridi. Impresivna riječka školjka mjesto je nastanka novih mladih bisera plivanja, vaterpola ili sinhroplivanja, a taj niz sportova se na Kantridi nastavio i skokovima u vodu. Ska- kači su strpljivo čekali i čekanje im se isplatilo. Dobili su, kako kažu, jedan od najljepših bazena za skokove u vodu na svijetu. Za jedan dio posla pobrinuli su se arhitekti, a sve ostalo uči- nila je priroda. S vrha tornja čije se boje mijenjaju pod sun- cem, pruža se veličanstven pogled na Kvarnerski zaljev čije plavetnilo narušavaju samo otoci. Gledatelji na tribinama na kojima je 400 sjedećih mjesta tako imaju prekrasnu setting and athletes are able to make the most of the excel- scensku kulisu, a sportaši vrhunske uvjete za treniranje. U lent conditions. At the moment of the jump, they have under trenutku skoka se ispod njih nalazi bazen veličine 20 puta them a 20 by 25 m pool which is slightly less than 5 metres 25 metara i dubine nešto manje od 5 metara. Sam toranj deep. The tower itself disposes of diving boards at heights of ima skakaonice na visinama od jednog, tri, pet, sedam i pol one, three, five, seven and a half and ten metres and divers te deset metara, a skakače do njih vode stepenice ili diza- can reach them by steps or from an elevator. Although the lo. No, iako je bazen u prvom redu namijenjen skokovima primary purpose of the pool is diving, the pool is also used by u vodu, na bazenu treniraju i sinhro plivačice koje imaju synchronized swimmers for training sessions, thus being able odlične uvjete jer je bazen dovoljno dubok i opremljen pod- to experience excellent conditions as the pool is deep enough vodnim zvučnicima. Zbog svoje dubine pogodan je i za te- and equipped with underwater loud-speakers. Thanks to its čajeve ronjenja. Obzirom da je tijekom zimskih mjeseci ba- depth it is also suitable for scuba diving courses. And all this zen natkriven balonom, sve te aktivnosti se odvijaju svih 12 is possible throughout the year as, in the winter months, the mjeseci u godini. Bazenom za skokove u vodu zaokružena je pool is covered by a large dome. So the diving pool has com- riječka priča o riječkom vodenom sportskom parku. pleted the story of Rijeka’s Water and Sports Park. 56 Novi grad / New city Piše / Written by: Igor Rivetti

Stadion čiju su posebnost primijetili mnogi A stadium whose particularity has been noticed by many people

Kantrida, Rijeka

Smješten između stijena s jedne i kristalno plavog, čistog Located amongst the rocks on one side and by the mora s druge strane stadion Kantrida je sigurno jedan od clean crystal blue sea on the other, the Kantrida Sta- najneobičnijih svjetskih stadiona koji očarava svojom osob- dium is certainly one of the most unusual stadiums in nošću. Američki medijski div CNN tako opisuje riječki nogo- the world, to be able to enchant those who see it with metni stadion na svom popisu osam najneobičnijih svjetskih its personality. The American media giant CNN de- nogometnih stadiona. Prema CNN-u, Kantrida je jedan od scribed Rijeka’s soccer stadium on its list of the eight osam svjetskih sportskih čuda, a drušvo joj na popisu oda- most unusual world soccer stadiums. According to branih u Europi čine velikani poput francuskog Velodroma, CNN, Kantrida has been selected amongst the eight portugalskih stadiona Braga i Madeira, njemačke Allianz world sporting miracles alongside other magnificent Arene te Svangaskard stadiona na Farskim otocima. Uz šest European complexes such as the French Velodrome, Europskih stadiona koje se obavezno mora posjetiti na po- Portuguese Stadiums in Braga and Madeira, the Ger- pisu su stadion Cape Town u Južnoj Africi i bolivijski stadi- man Allianz Arena and the Svangaskard Stadium on on Hernando Siles. Kako naglašava CNN, u objašnjenju svog the Faroe Islands. Besides the six European stadiums that must be visited, the Cape Town Stadium in South Africa and the Bolivian stadium, Hernando Siles also appear on the list. As CNN points out, when explaining their selection, there are thousands of soccer stadiums in the world and everyone is familiar with Maracana, Wembley or Camp Nou and Santiago Bernabeu, but other stadiums should also be visited as they are more than special. For its 100th anniversary, the Kantrida Stadium received deserved recognition. The first game was played there in 1912 and the stadium’s capacity at that time was 10,000 spectators. Rijeka players play their 57 izbora, u svijetu je na tisuće nogometnih stadiona i svi znaju games between rocks and the sea, and Kantrida has za Maracanu, Wembley ili Camp Nou i Santiago Bernabeu no hosted the Croatian National Soccer Team's games i neke druge stadione treba vidjeti jer su svakako posebni. several times too. Rijeka’s guests are always thrilled with the stadium every time they see it. Even accord- Stadion Kantrida je za svoj stoti rođendan dobio zasluženo priznanje. Prva je utakmica odigrana 1912. godine, a kapa- ing to the opinion of the former Rijeka and nation- citet stadiona je 10 000 gledatelja. Svoje utakmice između al team players, the Kantrida sport arena is unique stijena i mora igraju nogometaši Rijeke, a Kantrida je neko- for its atmosphere, its beauty and its surroundings. liko puta ugostila i susrete hrvatske nogometne reprezen- I have played in many stadiums and I agree that tacije. Gosti Rijeke uvijek se iznova oduševe stadionom. Da Kantrida is special and different especially when the je Kantrida sportska arena jedinstvena po ugođaju, ljepoti i reflector lights are turned on and we are surrounded okruženju smatra i bivši igrač Rijeke i reprezentacije. Igrao by a fairytale background. Every player who comes to sam na mnogim stadionima i složio bih se da je Kantrida po- this stadium is thrilled not only with its appearance sebna, drugačija, kada se upale reflektori dobijemo jedno go- but also with its acoustics. tovo bajkovito okruženje i svi nogometaši koji dođu na ovaj The Kantrida Stadium is certainly not the most modern stadion oduševljeni su njegovim izgledom, ali i njegovom stadium in the world, but the fact that it steals a small akustikom. part of the area between the old quarry and sea makes it Stadion Kantrida sigurno nije najmoderniji, no činjenica da particularly special and different from the others. Kantr- je ukrao djelić prostora između staroga kamenoloma i mora ida seems to be part of the past, imprisoned within the čini ga posebnim i toliko drugačijim od drugih stadiona. Kan- present and is surely one of the city’s symbols and an at- trida tako izgleda kao da je dio nekih prošlih vremena zaro- traction for everyone who visits it. bljenih u sadašnjosti te je sigurno jedan od simbola grada i There is another interesting story linked with Kantrida. atrakcija za svakoga tko posjeti Rijeku. There has always been competition between players and Za Kantridu se veže još jedna zanimljiva priča. Oduvijek je between passer-bys too with regard to who will hit the postojalo natjecanje igrača, ali i prolaznika u ispucavanju ball the hardest. The only rule is that they have to hit and lopte. Pravilo je da se sa centra igrališta moraju prebaciti sti- throw the ball over the rocks, from the centre of the pitch jene odnosno da lopta mora završiti na cesti iznad stadiona. - that is onto the road above the stadium. There have Bilo je tisuće i tisuće pokušaja, no svega je, tvrde svjedoci, ne- been thousands of attempts, but according to witnesses koliko igrača kroz 100 godina dugu povijest uspjelo izvesti tu only a few players have achieved this almost impossible gotovo nemoguću misiju. mission in its 100 year history. 58 Sat vremena od Rijeke / Just an hour from Rijeka Piše / Written by: Larry Ambrozich

Okolica Rijeke bogata je šetnicama The Rijeka surroundings have a wealth of footpaths

Šetnjom do dobrog raspoloženja Walking in order to achieve a good mood 59

Vjerojatno ne postoji aktivnost starija od šetnje. Od najrani- jih dana, rođenja, ljudsko biće teži jednome cilju, da prohoda, prošeće. I od tog sretnog trenutka sve do posljednjeg dana ljudi šeću. Nerijetko i nesvjesni te radnje i okovani žurbom 21. Stoljeća, vječito nekud jureći, tražimo komadić slobodno- ga vremena za sebe i svoje bližnje. I upravo zbog toga je sve više onih koji svakim mogući trenutak koriste za "bijeg" prema jednoj od stotina označenih šetnica i pješačkih staza na Kvarneru. Ono što veseli jest da je prosjek od 8 do 10 tisuća dnevnih koraka čovjeka opasno ugrožen uz tisuće kilometara označenoga raja za ljubitelje šetnje i prirode.

Putovima "Zlatnog otoka" Otok Krk, najnaseljeniji i uz Cres površinom najveći hrvatski otok pravi je mamac stotinama tisuća turista koji godišnje, a najviše ljeti, borave na njemu. Prometno povezan mostom i zračnom lukom, Krk je najdublje uronio u europsko tlo. Pre- ko 300 kilometara pješačkih staza čine ga pogodnim za otkri- vanje. Sa 2500 sunčanih sati godišnje i s više od 1500 biljnih vrsta kao i autohtonih životinja, Krk je zahvalan svojim preci- ma i težacima koji su generacijama tabali putove svjedočan- stva burne prošlosti "Zlatnoga otoka". Šetnice Krka baštine i povijest Hrvata. Naime 1100. godine nastala je Bašćanska ploča koja predstavlja povijest hrvatskoga naroda i razvitak hrvatskog pisma - glagoljice. Ploča potječe iz crkve u Juran- dvoru, kod Baške i upravo će šetnja jednom od 16 obilježenih staza ukupne dužine 85 kilometara podsjetiti na slavnu povijest toga malog mjesta. There is probably no known activity older than walking. Since the be- Detaljnije upoznavanje s pismom Hrvata, glagoljicom, otkri- ginning, since birth, human beings have a tendency to one purpose, va se nešto zapadnije. Prolazeći putom glagoljaša, šetač će se to walk and to take a walk. And from that happy moment until their u Općini Dobrinj upoznati sa 37 kamenih ploča na kojima su dying day, people walk. Often unaware of the activity and bound by uklesane poruke i glagoljska abeceda. Mali predah obavezan the 21st century rush, we are always running somewhere and look je u Čižićima uz mazanje ljekovitim blatom. Uz brojne sta- for a piece of free time for ourselves and for our nearest and dearest. ze, nezaobilazna točka svake pješačke karte su Punat i otočić And it is precisely for that reason that there has been a growing num- Košljun. Pastirske staze vode do najvišeg, 541 metra visokog ber of those who in every possible moment "run" towards one of the vrha otoka, Velog vrha. Na najnižoj točki nalazi se otočić Ko- hundred marked trails and footpaths in the Kvarner area. Generally šljun, posljednje počivalište Katarine Frankopan, najpozna- people walk from between 8 and 10 thousand steps a day - just think tije dame te kneževske obitelji. how many they could walk if they considered the kilometres of marked footpaths at nature enthusiasts’ disposal. Šetnja Cresom uz dobroga duha Macmalića Uz riznicu povijesnog, kulturnog i ekološkog bogatstva, Along the trails of the "Golden Island" šetnice otoka Cresa skrivaju legendu o dobrome šumskom The island of Krk, the most inhabited and, besides Cres, the largest duhu Macmaliću. Narodno vjerovanje kaže kako je to malen, Croatian island has been a real lure for thousands of tourists who vrlo lijep čovjek uvijek spreman rado pomoći u nevolji. Živi u annually, and particularly during the summer, stay there. With re- jamama, u kojima ima lijepe mramorne sobe u kojima skri- gard to traffic, it is connected by the bridge and airport, Krk has dived va veliko blago. Kad bi netko od prolaznika bacio kamenčić u most deeply into European soil. Over 300 kilometres of footpaths jamu to bi satima odzvanjalo, Macmalinić bi se tada naljutio make it specific for discovery. With 2,500 hours of sunshine per year i naveo prolaznika na krivi put. Stoga kad bi se netko naglo and over 1,500 species of flora as well as autochthonous animals, Krk obogatio na otoku, mještani bi znali reći kako ima skrivenog is grateful to its ancestors and land workers who, over the generati- Macmalinića u kući. U šumama pokraj Belog šetači često nai- ons, have trampled hard over the testimonial trails of the turbulent laze na panjeve oko bijele stijene, za što se vjeruje kako su oni past of the "Golden Island". Krk’s trails are the heritage and history stolovi malog šumskog duha. of Croatian peoples. In fact, in 1100 the Baška Tablet was created, re- presenting the history of the Croatian people and the development Na najvišem dijelu otoka su područje Tramuntane i središ- of the Croatian Glagolitic alphabet. The tablet originates from the nji gradić, Beli. Dva posebna ornitološka creska rezervata church in Jurandvor, close to Baška, and faithfully the walk through Pod Okladi i Kruni mjesto su posebnoga doživljaja. Naime, one of the 16 marked footpaths with a total length of 85 kilometres njima caruju ogromne ptice grabljivice, bjeloglavi supovi. Za will remind us of the famous history of that small place. 60 zaštitu oko 70 parova ovih strvinara brine se ekocentar Ca- More detailed facts about the Croatian Glagolitic alphabet is reve- put Insulae Beli. Prolazeći trima obilježenim kružnim staza- aled in more western areas. Passing along the Glagolitic path in the ma Tramuntane svi putovi odvest će vas do 4 tisuće godina Municipality of Dobrinj, a walker will be introduced to the 37 stone stare gradine – Belog. boards with their chiselled messages and Glagolitic alphabet letters. A small pause must be made in Čižići where you should try to spre- Doživljaj Zelenoga srca Hrvatske ad your body with the medicinal mud. Besides the numerous paths, Nebrojeni kilometri označenih i skrovitih šetnica Gorskog the unavoidable point of each walking map is Punat and the island of Kotara skrivaju se ispod ogromne bioraznolikosti stoljetnih Košljun. Shepherds’ trails will take you to the Veli Vrh, a 541 metre šuma koje prevladavaju tim područjem. Teško je odlučiti je high island peak. On the lowest point is the islet of Košljun, the last li ljepši ljeti na prosječnih 17 ili zimi na nekoliko stupnjeva resting place of Katarina Frankopan, the most famous lady of this ispod ništice prekriven snježnim pokrivačem. Sastavljen od noble family. devet teritorijalnih jedinica, Gorski Kotar predstavlja idealno mjesto za bijeg od svakodnevnog stresa. Iako povezan Walk through the island of Cres autocestom, pravi doživljaj putovanja otkriva cesta Lujzi- alongside the good ghost, Macmalić jana, građena za vrijeme Napoleona. Ona je prvi doticaj sa Besides the treasury of the historical, cultural and ecological weal- nestvarno lijepom prirodom. I dok su sve goranske šetnice th, the island of Cres trails hide the legend of the good ghost Mac- ravnopravne za okruglim stolom, jedna je ipak posebnija. malić. According to popular legend, he was a small, very beautiful Mrkopaljski planinarski put, složit će se mnogi, najljepši je man always ready to help anyone in trouble. He lived in holes, where planinarski put u Hrvatskoj. Samarske i Bijele stijene domi- he had beautiful marble rooms in which he hid his treasure. When niraju tim područjem. Smještene na oko 1300 metara visine someone threw a stone into the hole, the sound could be heard for odlikuju ih i do pedeset metara visoke stijene. Nerijetko se hours. This is when Macmalinić became angry and indicated the među nedostupnim pukotinama pronađe i vječni snijeg. No, wrong way to passer-bys. That is why, when a person from the island pravi planinarski raj predstavljaju Samarske stijene koje čini suddenly becomes rich, the local people would say that he had hid- dvadesetak kamenih stijena koje paraju prostrano zelenilo den Macmalinić in his house. In the forests close to Beli, walkers of- šuma. Šetnja najdužom stazom do Samarskih stijena traje ten found trunks around the white rock which were believed to be čak 6 sati i vrlo je zahtjevna. No, tko je jednom prođe uvijek the tables of the small forest ghost. joj se vraća, kao i uostalom cijelom Gorskom Kotaru. On the highest part of the island is the Tramuntana area and the small central town of Beli. Two special ornithological Cres reservo- irs, Pod Okladi and Kruni, are places with a special sensation. In fact, they are ruled by enormous predatory birds, the griffon vulture. The Caput Insuale Beli Eco Centre takes care of the protection of around 70 pairs of these vultures. Passing along the three marked circular paths of the Tramuntana, all the trails will take you to the four thousand year old castle of Beli.

Experience the Green Heart of Croatia Numerous kilometres of marked and hidden footpaths in the Gorski kotar area are hidden under the enormous bio-diversity of the hundred year old forests that cover most of the area. It is hard to decide if it is more beautiful during the summer, at an average of 17 °C or in the winter, at a few degrees below zero, covered with snow. Made up of nine territorial units, Gorski kotar represents an ideal place to escape from everyday stress. Although linked by the highway, the real excursion uncovers the Lujzijana road, constructed in the Na- poleonic period. It is a real touch with idealistically beautiful nature. And whilst all Gorski kotar’s trails are equally beautiful, there is however, one that particularly stands out. The Mrkopalj hiking path, many will agree, is the most beautiful hiking path in Croatia. The Samarske and Bijele Rocks dominate over the area. Located at around 1,300 metres above sea level, they are "decorated" with, in some places, fifty metre high, rocks. Within the unreachable fissures snow can often be found. But the real hiking paradise is represented by the Samarske Rocks created of around twenty rocks that rip up the ex- pansive green forests. The walk along the lengthiest trail to reach the Samarske Rocks can be up to 6 hours long and is very demanding. But, those who do it once always come back to it as well as to the whole Gorski kotar area. 61 Tako je nekada bilo / Once upon a time Piše / Written by: Velid Đekić

Riječani su prije stotinu godina dočekali brod-simbol herojske požrtvovnosti u spašavanju Titanicovih brodolomaca A hundred years ago, Rijeka citizens welcomed a boat-symbol of heroic devotion which saved the Titanic castaways

Carpathia - krenula u Rijeku i završila u povijesti The Carpathia - left for Rijeka and finished in history

Rijeka – New York – Rijeka Rijeka – New York – Rijeka Da nije bilo Carpathije, pitanje je što bismo danas uopće If it hadn’t been for the Carpathia, we probably wouldn’t znali o posljednjim trenucima Titanica. Sudbina jednoga know anything about the last moments of the Titanic. On broda one je jezovite noći prije stotinu godina postala ne- that terrible night, a hundred years ago, the destiny of one raskidivo povezana sa sudbinom drugog. Zato će u povijest ship became unbreakably linked with that of the other. ući zajednički. That is why they entered history together. Okvir za priču o pojavi broda Carpathia u najglasoviti- The structure for the story about the appearance of the Car- joj pomorskoj nesreći 20. stoljeća stvorila je brodarska pathia in the most famous maritime accident of 20th cen- kuća Cunard Line, koja je 1903. otvorila redovnu putničku tury was created by the Cunard Line, a shipping company 62 liniju na relaciji Rijeka – New York – Rijeka. Brodovi su na which, in 1903, opened a regular passenger service on the toj liniji bili uposleni prijevozom ekonomskih emigranata Rijeka - New York - Rijeka route. Ships on that line trans- iz srednje Europe u Novi svijet. Izvana, mnogima su ostali ported emigrants from central Europe to the New World. prepoznatljivi po crvenim dimnjacima s crnom vrpcom pri Of the outside, many people remember the recognizable vrhu, te bijelom razdjelnom linijom između crnog i crve- red chimneys with their black ribbons towards the top nog dijela trupa. Brod kojim je započeo niz putovanja na toj and a white dividing line between the black and the red relaciji bio je Aurania, a slijedili su ga: Pannonia, Slavonia, part of the hull. The ship that first travelled this route Ultonia, Carmania, Franconia, Ivernia, Laconia, Saxonia i was the Aurania and this was followed by the Pannonia, Carpathia. Za potonji brod, Carpathiju, u dokumentima je the Slavonia, the Ultonia, the Carmania, the Franconia, zabilježeno da je porinut u brodogradilištu Swan & Hunter the Ivernia, the Laconia, the Saxonia and the Carpathia. u Newcastleu, bio dugačak 165 metara, širok 20 metara, za- According to data found in documents, the latter ship, premnine 13.564 BRT-a. U jednom smjeru preko Atlantica the Carpathia, was launched from the Swan & Hunter u prosjeku je putovao 18-20 dana. ship yard in Newcastle, it was 165 metres long, 20 metres wide and had a capacity of 13,564 GRT. The average Kobna noć journey in one direction over the Atlantic lasted around Na put u povijest Carpathia je zaplovila 11. travnja 1912. kre- 18-20 days. ćući iz njujorške luke prema Rijeci sa 700 putnika. Rutinsko That catastrophic night obavljanje poslova posadi je Carpathije u noći 15. travnja iznenadno narušeno SOS signalima. Kapetan Arthur Henry The Carpathia sailed into history on 11th April 1912 de- Rostron učinio je ono što se u takvim trenucima od njega i parting from the Port of New York and heading to Rije- ka with 700 passengers. On the night of 15th April, the očekivalo – naredio je skretanje s redovne rute i plovidbu routine work activities were suddenly violated by SOS najvećom brzinom prema izvoru signala, udaljenom 58 milja. signals. Captain Arthur Henry Rostron did what was ex- Maksimalna brzina broda bila je 15 čvorova na sat, ali – za- pected of him in such a situation – he ordered a diversion hvaljujući isključivanju grijanja, da bi se svu energiju usmje- from the regular route and sailed at full speed towards rilo kaparnom stroju – uspio je postići čak 17,5 čvorova. Na the signal source, some 58 miles away. The maximum mjestu nesreće pojavio se sat i 40 minuta nakon potonuća, u boat speed was 15 knots per hour, but when they turned 4.10. Spašavanje stradalih trajalo je četiri sata. off the heating system in order to direct all of their en- U noći koja je zauvijek progutala 1459 putnika i članova ergy towards the steam-engine, it even managed to reach posade, jedan od članova Carpathijine posade, 18-godišnji 17.5 knots. It reached the place of the accident one hour 63

...u povijest je Carpathia zaplovila 11. travnja and 40 minutes after the ship had sunk, at 4.10 am. The 1912. krećući iz njujorške luke prema Rijeci rescue of victims lasted for four hours. sa 700 putnika. Rutinsko obavljanje poslova On the night in which 1,459 passengers and crew disap- posadi je Carpathije u noći 15. travnja peared forever, one of the Carpathia's crew members, iznenadno narušeno SOS signalima... 18 year old Rijeka citizen Giuseppe (Josip) Car, quickly joined his colleagues in the dramatic rescue of survi- ...the Carpathia sailed into history on 11th April vors to the safety of the deck. At that time he had only 1912 departing from the Port of New York and been working little over a month on the Carpathia. He heading to Rijeka with 700 passengers. On the had been employed on 7th March 1912 in Liverpool and night of 15th April, the routine work activities was registered as part of the crew list under the number were suddenly violated by SOS signals... 304. He was not the only Croat on the Carpathia; there were over 70 people (a quarter of the total crew), all from Riječanin Giuseppe (Josip) Car, hitro se pridružio kolega- Croatian Coastal areas and from Istria. Car was a waiter ma u dramatičnom izvlačenju preživjelih na sigurnu palu- and his salary amounted to three pounds. bu. U tom je trenutku imao tek nešto više od jednog mje- He and the rest of the crew members managed to bring seca staža na Carpathiji. Na brodu se zaposlio 7. ožujka te 712 people onto the deck from the floating lifeboats. That godine u Liverpoolu, u popisu posade ubilježen pod rednim was when one of the unknown passengers placed his life- brojem 304. Nije bio jedini Hrvat na Carpathiji, na brodu ih jacket in the waiter’s hands. As a reminder of that dra- je radilo preko 70 (četvrtina posade!), mahom iz Hrvatskog matic night, Car took the lifejacket back to Rijeka. primorja i Istre. Car je obavljao konobarske poslove, dobi- vajući plaću od tri funte. Magnificent welcome Iz čamaca što su plutali morem, on i ostali članovi posade The Carpathia, with its castaways on board, turned its uspjeli su podići na palubu 712 osoba. U rukama mu je tada bow in the opposite direction and sailed towards New ostao prsluk za spašavanje s nepoznata putnika. Kao pod- York where it arrived after a three-day long journey, sjetnik na dramatičnu noć, Car će ponijeti prsluk u Rijeku. during the evening hours of 18th April. The ship’s inter- rupted journey to Rijeka continued on 20th April at 4 Veličanstven doček pm. It reached the Port of Rijeka on 6th May with a, by Carpathia je s brodolomcima okrenula pramac u suprot- now recognizable, name which the media had transmit- nom smjeru i zaplovila prema New Yorku, u koji je stigla ted around the world. Rijeka inhabitants hurried to wel- nakon trodnevne plovidbe, u večernjim satima 18. travnja. come the Carpathia and what followed is described by Nastavak prekinutog putovanja prema Rijeci uslijedio je contemporaries as "ovations". Nothing different could 20. travnja u 16 sati. U njenu luku stiže 6. svibnja, tada već s be expected. The Carpathia arrived before them as a imenom koje su mediji prenijeli gotovo cijelom Zemljinom boat-symbol of the heroic care for castaways, a symbol of kuglom. Stanovnici Rijeke pohitali su dočekati Carpathiju, unselfish humanity thanks to the mainly Croatian crew. a ono što je uslijedilo suvremenici opisuju riječju "ovacije". That image has been kept in the world’s maritime history Drukčije nije ni moglo biti. Carpathia je stigla pred njihove until today. oči kao brod-simbol herojske brige za brodolomce, simbol Some of this excitement can even be sensed by today’s nesebične ljudskosti, koji to može velikim djelom zahvaliti visitors to the Port of Rijeka, looking over the Orlando svojoj hrvatskoj posadi. Takav je ostalo u svjetskoj pomor- Pier (which in the period of the Carpathia is known as skoj povijesti do danas. Rudolf’s Pier), the place from which, a hundred years ago, Nešto od tog uzbuđenja kao da može naslutiti i današnji po- the Carpathia had departed for New York and the place sjetitelj riječke luke, s pogledom na Orlandov (u Carpathi- on which enthusiastic Rijeka inhabitants welcomed its jino vrijeme Rudolfov) gat, mjesto s kojeg je prije stotinjak return. However, the Carpathia cannot be expected at godina Carpathia isplovljavala put New Yorka i na kojem su this place today. In the First World War the ship was used Riječani oduševljeno dočekali njezin povratak. Samu Car- to transport military equipment and then, on 17th July pathiju, dakako, na tomu mjestu danas ipak ne treba oče- 1918, it was hit by three torpedoes from a German sub- kivati. U Prvom svjetskom ratu služila je za prijevoz vojne marine. It sank in two and half hours. opreme, pa ju je 17. srpnja 1918. s tri torpeda pogodila nje- The same, if not greater, excitement can be sensed by mačka podmornica. Potonula je nakon dva i pol sata. observing the lifejacket, that same one brought by the Podjednako, ako ne i veće uzbuđenje može se naslutiti u su- young waiter Car to Rijeka. It is the only lifejacket from sretu s prslukom za spašavanje, onim istim što ga je mladi the Titanic located in Europe and is preserved in the Ri- konobar Car donio u Rijeku. To je jedini prsluk s Titanika jeka Maritime and Historical Museum of the Croatian koji se nalazi u Europi, a pohranjen je u Pomorskom i povi- Littoral. Here it represents the central item of the Tita- jesnom muzeju Hrvatskoga primorja. Središnji je eksponat nic/Carpathia exhibition which was opened in the afore izložbe Titanic/Carpathia, otvorene u tom Muzeju 13. trav- mentioned Museum on 13th April this year. The exhibi- nja ove godine, a koja traje do 15. prosinca. tion will remain open until 15th December. 64 ZOOM Egon Hreljanović

Egon Hreljanović rođen je u Rijeci 1951. Prva fotografska iskustva stekao je od oca Viktora. Kao član riječkog fotokluba Color, prvi puta izlaže 1969. Do danas je izlagao na više od stotinjak izložbi u zemlji i ino- zemstvu, od toga četrnaest puta samostalno. Godine 1984. profesionalno se posvećuje fotografiji zaposlivši se u re- klamnoj agenciji OZEHA kao fotograf i propagandist. Godine 1986. primljen je u Zajednicu umjetnika Hrvatske (danas HZSU), te prihva- ća slobodnu profesiju kao svoje trajno opredjeljenje. Od 1995. član je i HDLU-a Rijeke. Bavi se reklamnom fotografijom u turizmu i industriji, te primijenje- nom fotografijom u oplemenjivanju javnih prostora. Autorske je fotografije objavio u mnogim periodičkim i monografskim publikacijama. Surađuje s ustanovama čija je djelatnost očuvanje kulturne baštine, te je tako, uz ostavštinu svoga oca, stvorio bogatu fotoarhivu i od zaborava saču- vao mnoge spomenike kulture i umjetnička djela. Uz neizbježnu digitalnu fotografiju, izlaže i crno- bijelu fotografiju koju ra- zvija u svom laboratoriju klasičnim postupkom.

Egon Hreljanović was born in Rijeka in 1951. His first photographic experience is linked to his father Viktor. As a member of Rijeka’s Color Photoclub, he exhibited for the first time in 1969. To date he has exhibited his works in over a hundred exhibitions in Croatia and abroad, of which fourteen were individual exhibitions. In 1984 he dedicated his profession to photography and was employed by the OZEHA Advertisement Agency as a photographer and propagandist. In 1986 he was admitted into the Croatian Ar- tists Association (today's Croatian Freelance Artists’ Association) and accepted the freelance profession as his permanent commi- tment. Since 1995 he has been a member of the Rijeka Croatian Association of Artists. He deals with advertisement photography for the tourism and industry sectors as well as with applied photography with regard to the decoration of public areas. His signature photographs have been published in numerous periodical and monographic publications. He has been collaborating with institutes whose activities are ba- sed on the preservation of cultural heritage, and in this way, besides his father's inheritance, he has created a rich photographic archive and saved numerous cultural monuments and works of art from oblivion. Besides the unavoidable digital photography, he has been exhibiting black and white photographs developed in his own laboratory using a classical procedure. 65

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Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - events

Lipanj / June 2012

13. - 15.6. Dani Sv. Vida Lipanj je mjesec blagdana Sv. Vida, zaštitnika Grada Rijeke. Punih tjedan dana traju sportski, zabavni, kulturni i vjerski događaji kojima se obilježava ova svečanost. Od 13. - 15.6. na raznim lokacijama u gradu, ne propustite cjelodnevne programe obilježavanja Dana Sv. Vida.

13 - 15.6 St Vitus days June is the month of the St Vitus holiday, the patron saint of the City of Rijeka. Sport, entertainment, cultural and spiritual events, with which this holiday will be celebrated will last for an entire week. From 13 – 15.6 do not miss the full day programs to celebrate St Vitus Days held in various locations in the town.

6 - 10.6 Fiumare To keep it all in the sign of the sea, the month begins with the Kvarner festival of sea and maritime tradition - Fiumare –which takes place from 6th – 10th June at various locations throughout the town. 6. - 10.6. Fiumare 7 - 10.6 Kako bi sve bilo u znaku mora, mjesec započinje Kvarnerskim Fiumanka th th th festivalom mora i pomorske tradicije - Fiumare – koji se od 6. - Fiumanka will take place from 7 to 10 June and is the 13 10. lipnja odvija na gradskim lokacijama. edition of this International Sailing Regatta whilst in the same period on Putnička obala the Sailing Fair will be held. 7. - 10.6. Fiumanka 12 - 17.6 Od 7. do 10. lipnja na redu je Fiumanka, 13. izdanje Međunarodne Rijeka sport week jedriličarske regate. Na Putničkoj obali održat će se Sajam jedrenja. From 12 - 17.6 the Rijeka sport week Primorski cup will take place – a festival of sport, tolerance and development of children and youth. 12. - 17.6. Rijeka sport week 24 - 25.6 Od 12. - 17.6. traje Rijeka sport week Primorski cup - festival Town synchronised swimming championships sporta, tolerancije i razvoja djece i mladih. Another important sporting event will also be held this month from 24 - 25.6 at the Kantrida Swimming Pools where the Town 24. - 25.6. synchronised swimming championships will be taking place.. Gradsko prvenstvo u sinhro plivanju U ovom se mjesecu obilježava još jedan značajan sportski 19.6 - 14.7 događaj. Od 24. - 25.6. na Bazenima Kantrida održat će se Rijeka Summer Nights Gradsko prvenstvo u sinhro plivanju. In mid June is the most important Rijeka cultural event – the Rijeka Summer Nights that in the period from 19.6 – 14.7 will be 19.6. - 14.7. full of concerts and performances at various locations in the city Riječke ljetne noći Sredinom lipnja započinje i najznačajnija riječka kulturna 21.6 - 10.9 th manifestacija - Riječke ljetne noći koje od 19.6. - 14.7. obiluju 7 Summer on Gradina th zanimljivim koncertima i predstavama na različitim lokacijama Also, from 21.6 - 10.9 at Trsat Castle the 7 Summer on Gradina u gradu. event will take place, which from year to year brings together a growing number of admirers, primarily due to its unique 21.6. - 10.9. atmosphere at the interesting concerts and other cultural 7. ljeto na Gradini programs. Isto tako, od 21.6. - 10.9. na Trsatskoj gradini traje 7. Ljeto na Gradini koje iz godine u godinu okuplja sve veći broj poklonika, 8 - 23.6 ponajprije zbog jedinstvene atmosfere na zanimljivim Kalvarija Cultural centre koncertima i ostalim kulturnim programima. Kalvarija Cultural centre also has June full of interesting shows. On 8th, 9th, 15th and 16th June the Lost Theatre is on the 8. - 23.6. programme with a premiere of the Children's drama ensemble Kulturni centar Kalvarija performance "Wonderful little cloud" at 7pm, whilst on 16th and I Kulturni centar Kalvarija ima sadržajan lipanj. U danima 8, 9, 17th on the summer terrace of Kalvarija is Mišn imposibl (Mission 15. i 16. lipnja na programu je Izgubljeno kazalište - premijera impossible) – the Ri Teatar’s summer comedy hit. The 2011/2012 predstave Dječjega dramskog ansambla "Čudesni oblačak" u 19 season will close on 23rd June. with the best of Kuc Kuc Cabaret 69

Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - events

sati; a 16. i 17. na ljetnoj terasi Kalvarije - Mišn imposibl - ljetna –the Ri Teatar’s finest humoristic programme of the past year, at hit komedija Ri Teatra. 23. lipnja zatvara se sezona 2011./2012. 9 pm. - The best of kuc kuc cabaret - najbolji humoristični program Ri Teatra iz protekle, u 21 sat. 28.6 MIK - Melodies of Istria and Kvarner Festival 28.6. And as a the cherry on the top, on 28th June, Rijeka will host MIK - Melodija Istre i Kvarnera the travelling MIK - Melodies of Istria and the Kao "šećer na kraju", Rijeka je 28. lipnja domaćin putujućeg Kvarner Festival. Festivala MIK - Melodija Istre i Kvarnera. 20.6 - 12.9 20.6. - 12.9. Astronomy Centre Rijeka Astronomski centar Rijeka We should also mention that in the period from 20.6 - 12.9 the Treba napomenuti i da se u Astronomskom centru od 20.6. - 12.9. Astronomy Centre will be organizing a programme for foreign organizira program za strane turiste. tourists.

Srpanj / July 2012

19.6. - 14.7. 19.6 - 14.7 Riječke ljetne noći Rijeka Summer Nights Riječke ljetne noći se odvijaju na Rijeka Summer Nights will be held at the most unusual nesvakidašnjim lokacijama. U prostorijama locations. In the former Torpedo factory, on 2.7 the Carmina bivše tvornice Torpedo 2.7. izvodi se Carmina burana will take place at 9.30 pm. A day later, and also on burana u 21.30 sati. Dan kasnije, te 4. i 5. srpnja on 4th and 5th July, you can see a performance by Baba Jaga na plaži ispod OŠ Grivica pogledajte Baba Jaga snijela jaje, at 9.30 pm on the beach below the Elementary je snijela jaje, u 21.30 sati. Na Trgu Grivica, 7. School Grivica. The Cavalleria rusticana programme will srpnja, na programu je Cavalleria rusticana, u take place on 7th July in Grivica Square at 9.30 pm whilst on 21.30 sati, a 9. i 10.7. na Trgu M. V. Ilirija - Ćelava 9th and 10th July at the M.V. Ilirik Square there is The Bald pjevačica, u 21.30 sati. U nekadašnjoj Tvornici Soprano, at 9.30 pm. In the former Paper factory – Hartera, papira - Harteri 11. srpnja izvodi se Antigona, on 11th July at 9.30 pm Antigona will be held whilst on 12.7 u 21.30 sati, a 12.7. Na pozornici HNK Ivan pl. on the stage of the CNT Ivan pl. Zajc at 9.30 pm the Laginjina Zajca - Laginjina izložba, u 21.30 sati. Predstava izložba (Laginja's Exhibition) will be held. A performance of Hamleta u selu Mrduša Donja na programu je Hamlet in the village of Mrduša Donja is on the programme 13. i 14. srpnja na Trgu M. V. Ilirija u 21.30 sati; a on 13th and 14th July on M.V. Ilirik Square at 9.30 pm; on 13.7. će se u Tvornici papira - Hartera – održati 13.7 at the Paper factory – Hartera the Rijeka Philharmonic koncert Riječke filharmonije, u 21.30 sati. U Orchestra will be performing at 9.30 pm. In Villa Ružić in Vili Ružić na Pećinama 16. srpnja pogledajte the Pećine District on 16th July do not miss the concert by koncert zbora Opere, u 21.30 sati. Dan kasnije, Opera Chore, at 9.30 pm. A day later, on 17th July in the small 17. srpnja na portiću na Kantridi na redu su port of Kantrida Fragrances, gold and frankincense will take Mirisi, zlato i tamjan, u 21.30 sati. Riječke ljetne place at 9.30 pm. The closing ceremony of Rijeka Summer noći završavaju 19. srpnja na krovu Tower centra Nights will be held on 19 July at the Tower center Rijeka roof Rijeka uz Blue butterfly u 21.30 sati. with the Blue Butterfly performance at 9.30 pm. 70

Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - events

14. - 21.7. 14 - 21.7 Astronomski centar Rijeka Astronomy Centre Rijeka Od 14. - 21.7. Astronomski centar Rijeka programima obilježava In the period from 14 - 21.7 the Astronomy Centre Rijeka will be obljetnicu spuštanja čovjeka na Mjesec. celebrating the anniversary of man landing on the Moon.

19. - 21.7. 19 - 21.7 Hartera Hartera U prostorima Hartere 20. i 21. srpnja mladi će uživati na Hartera Young people can enjoy the Hartera festival of urban music on festivalu urbane glazbe na kojem nastupaju svjetski poznata 20th and 21st July at Hartera venues, in which world-famous imena. names will participate.

Kolovoz / August 2012

14. - 15.8. Velika gospa Najtopliji ljetni mjesec u znaku je velikog crvenog blagdana - Velike gospe. Dan ranije 14.8. u crkvi Uznesenja Blažene Djevice Marije svečani koncert organizira HGU PGŽ, primorske pjesme izvodit će Josa Butorac. Na sam blagdan 15.8. u Svetištu Majke Božje Trsatske pridružite se tisućama hodočasnika koji za Velu Gospu pohode Trsat.

14. - 15.8. The Feast of the Assumption The hottest summer month is in the sign of a great ecclesiastical holiday - The Feast of the Assumption whilst before, on 14.8 in the church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary there will be a ceremonial concert organized by the Croatian Music Union – County of Primorje and Gorski kotar and littoral songs will be performed by Joso Butorac. On day of the holiday itself, 15.8, in the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Trsat join thousands of pilgrims visiting Trsat for the holiday of the Assumption.

Rujan / September 2012

20. - 23.9. 20 - 23.9 Florijana Florijana Rujan u Rijeci obilježavaju dva sajma. Od 20. do 23. na mostu kraj September in Rijeka is marked with two Fairs. From 20th to 23rd hotela Kontinental posjetite Florijanu, sajam cvijeća i plodova on the bridge near the Hotel Continental, visit Florijana, a Fair of jeseni. flowers and the fruits of autumn.

15. - 16.9. 15 - 16.9 Ki challenge Ki challenge Od 15. - 16.9. održava se 10. pustolovna From 15 - 16.9 the 10th Ki Challenge utrka Ki challenge. adventure race will be held.

28. - 30.9. 28 - 30.9 Kulturni centar Kalvarija Kalvarija Cultural Center Kulturni centar Kalvarija After the summer break, the Kalvarija nakon ljetne pauze starta s Cultural Center will start with a komedijom "U gradu meda i mlijeka", comedy "In the city of milk and honey," komedije Ri Teatra. Izvedbe su 28, by the Ri Teatar Comedy. Performances 29. i 30. rujna will take place on 28th to 30th September u 20 sati. at 8 pm. 71

26. - 30.9. Nautica Na Putničkoj obali održava se Nautica – 28. Međunarodni nautički sajam.

26 - 30.9 Nautica On the passenger bank there is Nautica – the 28th International Nautical Show.

Listopad / October 2012

1. - 5.10. 1 - 5.10 Kulturni centar Kalvarija Kalvarija Cultural Center Od 1. - 4.10. Kulturni centar Kalvarija organizira Dječji tjedan In the period from 1-4.10 the Kalvarija Cultural Center will be - predstave za djecu, radionice, izložbe, igraonice..., od 10 do organising the Children's week with performances for children, 19 sati. Na istom mjestu 5.10. pogledajte "Devet" - premijeru workshops, exhibitions, play areas etc. from 10am to 7pm. In the predstave Ri Teatra o grupi The Beatles, autora i redatelja:Davora same place on 5.10. do not miss "Nine" – the Ri Teatar premiere of Popovića, u 20 sati. the performance about The Beatles, author and producer: Davor Popović, at 8pm. 4. - 7.10. VITA plus 4 - 7.10 Na Putničkoj obali od 4. - 7.10. VITA plus - 6. sajam unapređenja VITA plus kvalitete života. Vita Plus – 6th Fair for improving the quality of life will be held on the Passenger shore from 4 - 7.10.

13.10 Učka mountain trek 2012. On 13.10 the 10th trekking race Učka Mountain Trek 2012 will be held, whilst from 19th to 21st in the aquatorium in front of the town the World Cup in coastal rowing competition will be taking place.

16.10 International Day of Astronomy On 16th October the International Day of Astronomy will be celebrated in the Astronomical Center, whilst the whole month is dedicated to the Croatian book.

13.10. Učka mountain trek 2012. 13.10. održava se 10. trekking utrka Učka mountain trek 2012., a od 19. do 21. na akvatoriju ispred grada održava se Svjetsko prvenstvo u obalnom veslanju.

16.10. Međunarodni dan astronomije U Astronomskom centru 16. listopada obilježava se Međunarodni dan astronomije, a cijeli mjesec posvećen je hrvatskoj knjizi.

19. - 20.10. 19 - 20.10 Hal´s All Star Guitar festival Hal´s All Star Guitar festival HKD na Sušaku od 19. do 20. bit će domaćin 8. Hal´s All Star The Croatian Cultural Dome on Sušak will host the 8th Hal's All Guitar festivala. Star Guitar Festival.

Mjesec završava partyjima na temu Halloweena 31. listopada. The month will end with Halloween parties on 31st October. 72

Studeni / November 2012

5. - 14.11. Međunarodna revija lutkarskih kazališta Međunarodna revija lutkarskih kazališta, 17. po redu, otvara događaje u studenom, od 5. do 14. Na programu je niz zanimljivih predstava za male, ali i velike. Od 23. do 24. na svoje dolaze ljubitelji klapa jer se u HKD na Sušaku održavaju 20. Bašćanski glasi.

5 - 14.11 International Puppet Theatre Festival On the 17th, the International Puppet Theatre, will start events in November, from 5th to 14th with a series of interesting performances, both for children and adults. The period from 23rd to 24th is for klapas admirers because the 20th Bašćanski glasi concert will take place in the Croatian Cultural Dome on Sušak .

2. - 4.11. 2 - 4.11 Kulturni centar Kalvarija Kalvarija Cultural Center Kulturni centar Kalvarija pun je događaja u studenom koji The Kalvarija Cultural centre has numerous events in November započinju 2., 3. i 4. kad je na programu "Smrad" - tragikomedija too which start on 2nd, 3rd and 4th when the Ri Teatar will be Ri Teatra. performing their tragicomedy "Smell".

Prosinac / December 2012

1. - 31.12. 1 - 31.12 Prosinac u Rijeci December in Rijeka Najčarobniji mjesec u The most charming month of the year. godini. Prosinac u Rijeci December in Rijeka from 1st to 31st brings od 1. do 31. donosi prigodni a fitting Christmas and New Year program božićno-novogodišnji that will be held in various locations. program na raznim Everyone will be able to find something to lokacijama. Svatko može enjoy, particularly the younger audience. pronaći nešto za sebe, a After the feast of St Nicholas on 6.12, pogotovo najmlađi. from 10 - 20.12. "December for children" Nakon dočeka Sv. Nikole 6. brings a special Christmas and New Year 12., od 10. - 20.12. "Prosinac program for the younger audience with za djecu" donosi specijalni performances for children, playrooms, božićno-novogodišnji workshops, Santa Claus with welcome, gifts program za najmlađe, for all children... predstave za djecu, On 26th December in St Vitus Cathedral, igraonice, radionice, doček the traditional concert of Christmas songs Djeda Mraza, pokloni svoj djeci... - "Božić je ljudi" (It's Christmas people) will be taking place whilst U katedrali Sv. Vida 26. prosinca na programu je tradicionalni from 28 - 30.12 the New Year concerts will be performed in CNT koncert božićnih pjesama – "Božić je ljudi", a od 28. - 30.12. u HNK Ivan pl. Zajc. Ivana pl. Zajca na redu su Novogodišnji koncerti. Završite 2012. Finish 2012 with a cheerful and unforgettable welcome to the New veselim i nezaboravnim dočekom Nove godine na Korzu. Year on the Korzo.

7. - 9.12. 7 - 9.12 Family fest Family fest Od 7. - 9.12. u Dvorani mladosti održava se Family fest - 2. From 7 - 9.12 the 2nd family Fair – Family Fest will also be held in obiteljski sajam. the Youths Hall

Piše / Written by: Andrea Bralić Marić 73 Slasni kutak / Tasty corner Piše / Written by: Valentino Benčić

Specijalitet primorske Hrvatske na kvarnerski način A specialty of littoral Croatia in Kvarner way

Pršut i bura s Kvarnera Prosciutto and bora from the Kvarner 74

Pršut, taj jedinstveni suhomesnati specijalitet već stotina- Pršut voli voće, on se redovito konzumira ma godina oduševljava turiste, slučajne prolaznike kao i s dinjom, a mi preporučujemo da ga stanovništvo Hrvatske. Iako prvi pisani podaci o pršutu u probate sa svježom smokvom kojima se opisuje njegova razna namjena datiraju nekoliko stoljeća unazad, danas je postalo jasno kako je ideja o pro- izvodnji pršuta nastala zbog potrebe da se meso što duže Prosciutto loves fruit and is regularly očuva. I ono što nije nikome tako dobro uspjelo, Hrvatima consumed with melon. We recommend jest. Od toga snažnog komada stražnjih (u nekim kulturama you to try it with fresh figs i prednjih) svinjskih nogu, proizvođači pršuta napravili su deliciju koja je postala nezaobilazan dio svake dobrodošli- Prosciutto, that unique specialty which thrills tourists, ran- ce, zakuske, slavlja. dom passengers as well as the Croatian nation for hundreds of Gotovo da ne postoji dio primorske Hrvatske u kojem neće- years. Although the first written records of prosciutto which te pronaći barem jednog proizvođača pršuta. Svaki od njih describe its various uses date back several centuries ago, today slično obrađuje taj, isprva sirovi, komad mesa. No tri pršu- it became clear that the idea of producing prosciutto aroused ta bolja su, ukusnija i posebnija od svih ostalih. Tri kralja from the need to preserve the meat as long as possible. And davno su navijestila rođenje spasitelja, no tri pršuta drniš- what anyone else succeeded to do so well, the Croats did. Of ki, istarski i krčki, asevi su svih hrvatskih pršuta. Ova tri od that strong piece of back (in some cultures also front) leg of tek sedam registriranih autohtonih proizvoda u Hrvatskoj a pork, prosciutto manufacturers have made a delicacy that predstavljaju vrhunac današnje proizvodnje. Iako naizgled has become an unavoidable part of every welcome, buffets, isti, svaki od njih razlikuje se pripremom. Istrijani suše pr- celebration. šut bez kože i bez dimljenja, drniški se dimi sa kožom, dok There is almost no part of the Croatian littoral in which you krčki postaje savršen sušen na kvarnerskoj buri bez dima, will not find at least one manufacturer of prosciutto. Each of sa kožom. them processes that, firstly crude, piece of meat in similar way. However, there are three species of prosciutto which are bet- Krčki pršut ter, tastier and more special than all other. The Three Kings Krk, otok jedinstvenoga gastronomskog doživljaja. U nje- announced long time ago the birth of a saviour, but three pro- govom imenu stopili su se okusi vrhunskog maslinovog sciuttos, Drniš, Istrian and Krk prosciutto, are the Aces among ulja, vina istančanog bukea kao i sira specifičnoga okusa. the all other Croatian prosciutto. These three of only seven No nabrojeno bez krčkog pršuta ne čini cjelinu. Da je tome registered autochthonous products in Croatia represents the tako posvjedočio nam je i Vjekoslav Žužić, jedini otoč- peak of today's production. Although seemingly the same, ni proizvođač pršuta s oznakom zemljopisnog porijekla. each of them differs for their preparation. Istrian producers 75

Nakon što pršut prođe proces solje- nja, dosoljavanja, prešanja, ispiranja i sušenja na buri što sve skupa traje 18 mjeseci, nastaje 7-8 kilograma težak ukusni zalogaj. Ravnomjerne crveno zagasite boje, rezan isključi- vo nožem kako bi se sačuvao okus, pršut ima aromu maslaca, nije pre- mekan, topi se u ustima i savršeno se sljubljuje uz čašicu vrbničke žlahti- ne. Tajna okusa? Možda zakletva pokojnoga djeda Žužića koji se u ka- snim dvadesetim godinama prošlog stoljeća, u vrijeme svinjske kuge, ob- vezao da će za svaku preživjelu svi- nju fratrima na Košljunu (mali oto- čić) odnijeti jedan pršut. I od tada je kuga nestala, a ostao je savršen pršut s krčkim potpisom. are drying prosciutto without the skin Specijalitet kvarnerske kuhinje A speciality of the Kvarner cuisine and without smoking, Drniš prosciutto is smoked with skin whilst the Krk's Punjene lignje Squids stuffed prosciutto becomes perfect when s pršutom i with prosciutto dried at Kvarner’s bora, with skin and without the smoking process. crvenim radićem and red radicchio Sastojci za 4 osobe: Ingredients for 4 person: Krk’s prosciutto • 800 g jadranskih liganja • 800 g Adriatic squids Krk, the island of an unique gastro- • par listova crvenog radića • few red radicchio leaves nomic experience. Its name merged • papar, sol • pepper, salt flavors of the top olive oil, wines of • 1 režanj češnjaka • 1 clove of garlic an exquisite bouquet and a cheese of • 50 g pršuta • 50 g of prosciutto a particular flavor. But all the afore- • maslinovo ulje • olive oil mentioned cannot make a whole Lignje se očiste i operu. Pripremi Clean and wash squids. Prepare a without prosciutto. That this is the se nadjev od sitno narezanih glava stuffing of finely slicedsquid heads, truth testified us Vjekoslav Žužic, the liganja, sitno sjeckanog pršuta i finely chopped garlic and prosciutto, only island prosciutto manufacturer češnjaka, soli, papra i maslino- salt, pepper and olive oil. Stuffing having the geographical origin mark. va ulja. Nadjev umotamo u list prepared in such way wrap in a sheet Once passed the whole process of crvenog radića (poput sarme), te of red radicchio (such as cabbage ro- salting, adding salt, pressing, wash- napunimo rep od lignje, Učvrsti- lls), and fill the tail of the squid. Then ing and drying at bora wind that lasts mo. Na laganoj vatri pirjamo sa strengthen it. Braise a small amount 18 months, you get a 7-8 kilos of tasty svih strana na malo masnoće. Kao of fat at low heat. Chard is warmly snack. Prosciutto of a uniform dark prilog preporučamo blitvu. recommended as a side dish. red colour, cut exclusively with a knife to preserve its flavour, has an aroma of butter, it is not too soft, melts in the mouth and perfectly goes with a glass of Vrbnik's Žlahtina wine. The secret of taste? Maybe the oath of late grand- father Žužić that in the late twenties of the last century, at the time of swine fever, committed to bring one prosciutto to the Franciscans at Košljun (an islet) for each surviving pig. Since then the fever disappeared, and what remained is a perfect prosciutto with Krk's signature. 76 Slasni kutak / Tasty corner Piše / Written by: Sanja Krmpotić

More je od pamtivijeka bilo izvor hrane, prema tvrdnjama znanstvenika kolijevka života i svega što postoji... The sea has been a source of food from time immemorial and, according to some scientists, the cradle of life and all that exists...

Svjetska poslastica iz plavoga mulja Kvarnera A world delicacy from the blue Kvarner mud 77

Iako Riječani sa zebnjom spominju ozloglašenoga talijanskog Ako ovdašnje ljude upitate pjesnika Gabriela D'Annunzia, okupatora grada između dva svjetska rata, svi poznavatelji dobre hrane podržavaju i citira- za najbolju kvarnersku ju njegovu tvrdnju da je najukusniji škamp na svijetu upravo namirnicu, većina će onaj "iz plavoga mulja Kvarnerskog zaljeva!" Brojni svjetski gurmani su za primjerke s takvom oznakom izvornosti spre- spontano odgovoriti - škamp! mni platiti puno više, a oni najiskusniji ih poput poznavatelja vina mogu prepoznati među srodnicima iz drugih mora. If you ask local people for the best Nephrops norvegicus Kvarner food, most of them will Kad se govori o podrijetlu kvarnerskog škampa najčešće se spontaneously answer- scampi! čuje da je nastao spontanim križanjem domaćeg škampa sa škampima iz južnokineskih mora, pristiglih u riječku luku na Although Rijeka citizens eagerly mention the notorious oplatama britanskih brodova. No, tu egzotičnu pripovijest je Italian poet, Gabriele D'Annunzio, who occupied the town prije tridesetak godina osporila znanost, kada su kvarnerski during the interwar period, all connoisseurs of good food škampi poslani na analizu u Norvešku gdje je utvrđeno da su support and quote his claim that the most delicious scampi identični onima u Sjevernom ledenom moru. Stoga je vjero- in the world is that from the very "blue mud of the Kvar- jatnija pretpostavka da je norveški predak današnjeg škampa ner bay!" Many of the world's gourmets are ready to pay for umjetno naseljen u Jadran, te pod utjecajem novih mikrokli- specimens with such a designation of origin more, whilst matskih uvjeta staništa - vrlo plitko more s puno izvora pitke the most experienced, like wine connoisseurs, are able to vode i toplije podneblje - s vremenom poprimio blijedocrve- identify them from among their relatives of other seas. nu boju i tanji oklop, mekanu i podatnu teksturu, te posebnu, prepoznatljivu slatkoću. Gradacija okusa primjetna je i u razli- Nephrops norvegicus čitim dijelovima Jadrana, pa kretanjem prema jugu kvaliteta When discussing the origin of Kvarner scampi, it is usually škampa opada jer obitavanjem na većim dubinama oklop po- said that it was created by the spontaneous crossing of the staje tvrđi, a meso mišićavo i vlaknasto. domestic scampi with scampi from the Southern Chinese Škamp je vrsta raka latinskoga naziva Nephrops norvegicus, Seas, which arrived in the port of Rijeka on the hulls of Brit- spada u porodicu hlapova, a njegovo stanište se prostire od ish ships. However, this exotic tale was contested by science Islanda i Norveške u Atlanskom oceanu, preko skoro cijelog thirty years ago, when Kvarner scampi were sent for analy- Mediterana (izuzev istočnog akvatorija) do Jadranskoga mora sis to Norway where it was determined that they are identi- u kojem je zastupljen s 241 vrstom, najviše u sjevernom dijelu, cal to those in the Arctic Sea. The assumption that the Nor- na Kvarneru i u Podvelebitskom kanalu, te na jugu u Jabučkoj wegian ancestor of today’s scampi was artificially populated kotlini. Dubine na kojima obitava kreću se od 30 do 400 meta- in the Adriatic is therefore more plausible, and under the ra, a za razliku od svojih slatkovodnih rođaka, živi isključivo influence of the microclimatic conditions of its new habi- na muljevitom dnu glinastog sastava pogodnom za kopanje tat - very shallow water with plenty of fresh water springs tunela iz kojih izlazi samo u potrazi za hranom i u vrijeme pa- and a warmer climate – had over time assumed its light red renja. Preteženo se hrani drugim rakovima i mekušcima, te colour and thinner shell, its soft and supple texture as well organskim ostacima dospjelim na morsko dno. Škamp raste as its special and distinctive sweetness. A gradation of fla- vrlo sporo, jer presvlači oklop, pri čemu su mužjaci nešto duži vour is also noticeable in various parts of the Adriatic, so (do 26 cm) od ženki (do 17 cm), a da bi postigao težinu od 200 the scampi’s movement southward has decreased its qual- grama, treba mu čak deset godina! ity since settling at greater depths, its shell becomes harder and its meat more muscular and fibrous. Kvarnerski brend The scampi is a type of crab with a Latin name, Nephrops Od davnina se škampi u Jadranu love vršama na parangalu, norvegicus, and belongs to the lobster family. Its habitat još uvijek su to najslasniji primjerci jer im takvim lovnim extends from Iceland and Norway in the Atlantic Ocean, alatom meso ostaje neoštećeno i čisto od pijeska i mulja. No across almost the entire Mediterranean (apart from the škampara je sve manje, kao i njihova ulova. Potisnule su ih eastern archipelago) to the Adriatic sea where it is repre- brojne koćarske mreže, pretjeranim izlovom kojih posljed- sented with 241 species, mostly in the northern part, in the njih dvadesetak godina je primjetan pad populacije škampa, Kvarner and Velebit channel whilst in the south it can also te prijeti opasnost od njegova izumiranja, a jedinke su sve be found in the Jabuka valley. It lives at depths from 30 to manje. Tako su nekada kilogram činila četiri velika škampa, 400 meters, and unlike its freshwater cousins, lives solely a danas skoro tridesetak manjih. Navedena problematika je on the muddy bottom composed of clay which is suitable bila tema okruglog stola znanstvenika i ribara održanog 2011. for digging tunnels which it leaves only when searching for godine, radi definiranja mjera zaštite jadranskog škampa i food and during the mating period. It mainly feeds on other pokretanja inicijative brendiranja kvarnerskog škampa kao crabs and molluscs as well as on organic residues that have izvornog hrvatskog i ekološki zdravog prehrambenog proi- come to the seabed. The scampi grows very slowly, as it has zvoda vrhunske kvalitete! to change its shell, males are slightly longer (up to 26 cm) 78

Prvo spominjanje škampa kao namirnice zabilježeno je još u 1. than females (up to 17 cm) and in order to achieve a weight stoljeću poslije Krista, u djelu "O kuharskom umijeću carskoga of 200 grams, it can take up to ten years! Rima", legendarnog gurmana i pisca Marka Gabiusa Apiciusa, koji je iznad svega volio škampe, doduše ne jadranske nego iz Kvarner's Brand južne talijanske regije Kampanije. No u pravu modu je došao From time immemorial Adriatic scampi is fished with trawl tek sredinom 19. stoljeća, pojavom koča i naglim povećanjem lines, they are still the most delicious specimens as such njegova izlova, kad se ponovno službeno vraća u talijanska ga- fishing tools enable the meat to remain intact and clean of stronomska djela s hvalospjevima upućenim upravo primjer- sand and mud. However, both scampi fishermen and their cima koje su venecijanski ribari lovili na Kvarneru, pronoseći catch are becoming less every day. They are pushed out svijetom slavu našega podmorja, o čemu svjedoče zapisi ta- with the numerous trawl nets and overfishing in the last dašnjeg ribarskog priručnika: "Nazivu scampo priznaje se ve- twenty years has caused a noticeable decrease of the scam- necijansko podrijetlo, ali najbolji škampi žive uz dalmatinske pi population. There is a danger of their extinction whilst obale i na Kvarneru." individuals are smaller. So where once, in a kilogram you got four large pieces of scampi today you will get around Esencija živog mora thirty pieces of scampi which are considerably smaller. Mletački naziv scampo proširio se po cijeloj Italiji i našoj ze- This problem was the theme of the round table of scientists mlji, a u engleskom i francuskom gastronomskom narječju je and fishermen held in 2011, to define measures to protect zamijenio njihove izvorne nazive (engl. Norwey lobster, franc. the Adriatic scampi and to start an initiative of branding Langoustine), iako je korijen riječi, kao i kod većine riba i rako- Kvarner scampi as being of Croatian origin and an ecologi- va, zapravo grčki te u prijevodu znači iskrivljen, vjerojatno po cally healthy top quality food! škampovu zakrivljenom repu. Scampi was mentioned for the first time as a food in the 1st Škampi su oduvijek bili cijenjeni među pravim sladokusci- century AD, in the opus "About the culinary art of imperial ma i ovisno o njihovu kulinarskom okruženju pripremani Rome" written by the legendary gourmand and writer Marcus na razne načine, mirisima i okusima opisujući kraj iz kojeg Gabius Apicius, who loved scampi more than anything, though dolaze te još bitnije, brojem sastojaka i dodataka u receptu not those from the Adriatic preferring those from the south- otkrivajući stvarnu kvalitetu svog okusa. Upravo u tome leži ern Italian region of Campania. However, they became really tajna posebnosti kvarnerskog škampa koji obitava u ekološ- popular in the mid-19th century, when fishing boats started to ki čistom Kvarnerskom zaljevu, s brojnim izvorima slatke be used and there was a rapid increase in scampi fishing. Dur- vode, na malim dubinama do kojih sunčane zrake lako doing that time, scampi officially returned to the Italian gastro- piru i škampu pružaju stanište bogato kvalitetnom hranom nomic state-of-the-art with hymns being addressed to the spe- i mineralima. Zbog nižeg morskog tlaka njegov oklop je ta- cies Venetian fishermen fished in the Kvarner region, bringing nji i mekši, a meso izrazito ukusno, prepoznatljive slatkoće the glory of our undersea world around the globe, which can koja dolazi do izražaja u najjednostavnijim jelima, poput be proved by notes in a fishing guide of the time: "Scampo is 79

Škampi na buzaru Scampi alla buzzara Za 4 osobe: For 4 people: • 1200 grama škampi • 1200 gr of scampi • 2 režnja češnjaka • 2 cloves of garlic • 2 oguljene svježe rajčice • 2 pieces of peeled fresh tomato • 2 dcl suhog bijelog vina • 200 ml of dry white wine • Krušne mrvice po potrebi • Bread crumbs as necessary • Kosani svježi peršin • Chopped fresh parsley • Maslinovo ulje • Olive oil • Sol • Salt

U zagrijanu padelu dodajte maslinovo ulje. Kad se Pour the olive oil onto a heated platter. When the oil ulje zagrije, ubacite cijele škampe i kratko popržite. becomes hot, add the whole scampi and fry them briefly. Dodajte sjeckani češnjak, a čim zamiriši, ubacite sjec- Add the chopped garlic, and as soon as it begins to brown, kane rajčice. Kad tekućina iz rajčica ispari, dodajte add the chopped tomatoes. When the liquid from the to- bijelo vino te poklopite na dvije minute. Potom otklo- matoes has evaporated, add the white wine and cover for pite i po potrebi zgusnite krušnim mrvicama, zači- two minutes. Then take off the cover and add the bread nite solju, maslinovim uljem i na kraju pospite sitno crumbs, salt, olive oil and finally sprinkle with the finely kosanim svježim peršinom. Bitna napomena: škamp chopped fresh parsley. Important note: scampi prepared pripremljen na buzaru mora biti čvrste konzistencije in a buzzara sauce should have a consistency like that of poput pečenog na žaru, a ne kuhanog u umaku. grilled scampi, and not like those boiled in sauce.

tradicionalne buzare - na crveno ili bijelo, ovisno o dodatku accepted as a name of Venetian origin, but the best scampi live rajčice - zatim rižota ili samo sa žara. S vremenom su prihva- along the Dalmatian shores and on Kvarner. ćeni i novi trendovi u gastronomiji, no ljudi od mora i ljubitelji esencijalnih okusa vrhunac užitka pronalaze upravo u The essence of the living sea sirovom kvarnerskom škampu s tek par kapi limunova soka, The Venetian name scampo spread all over Italy and our što je ujedno i najdrevniji ritual kušanja snage i punoće živo- country when English and French culinary dialect replaced ta - naše pradavne hrane iz mora. their original names (eng. Norwegian lobster, fr. Langous- tine), although the root of the word, as with most fish and crustaceans, is in fact Greek and the translation means bent, probably because of the scampi’s curved tail. Scampi has always been appreciated among real gourmets depending on their culinary environment, and are prepared in a number of ways, recounting the area from which they come from with their aroma and taste and even more importantly, revealing the actual quality of their flavour by the number of ingredients and additives from the recipe. The secret of Kvar- ner scampi lies precisely in the aforementioned particularity which resides in the ecologically clean Kvarner Bay, with its numerous springs of fresh water at shallow depths, easily reached by solar rays, providing the scampi with a habitat rich in quality food and minerals. Due to the lower sea pres- sure, its shell is thinner and softer, and its meat is very tasty, of a distinctive sweetness that is particularly noticeable in the simplest dishes, such as the traditional buzzara – prepared "red" or "white", depending on how much tomato is added – or a simple risotto or even just grilled. Over time, new trends in gastronomy have been accepted but people from the sea and lovers of essential flavours attain the most intense pleasure in raw Kvarner scampi with just a few drops of lemon juice, which is the most ancient ritual of tasting power and the full- ness of life that is our ancient food from the sea. Novi grad / New city

Tower Center Rijeka - kupovina sa stilom The Tower Center Rijeka - shopping with style

Kada poželite sve na jednom mjestu, posjetite Tower When you want to buy everything in one place, visit the Tower Center Rijeka, jedan od najvećih trgovačkih centara, Center Rijeka, one of the biggest shopping malls, and Rijeka omiljeno okupljalište Riječana, ali i svih posjetitelja Ri- citizens' together with its visitors' favourite gathering place. jeke. U modernoj i elegantnoj galeriji čeka vas 150 trgovi- In a modern and elegant gallery 150 stores are waiting for you, na s ponudom najboljih međunarodnih i domaćih robnih offering the best international and domestic brands. From marki. Od odjeće, bijele tehnike i namještaja, pa sve do clothing, home appliances and furniture, to the gift shop, the gift shop-a, Tower Center Rijeka će uistinu ispuniti sve Tower Center Rijeka will truly satisfy all your desires. vaše želje. There is also a hypermarket, eight Megastores and a number Tu je i jedan hipermarket, osam Megastorova, te niz kori- of useful services and facilities: a bank, currency exchange, snih usluga i sadržaja: banka, mjenjačnica, kemijska čistio- dry cleaning and a hairdressing salon. nica, frizerski salon. What will be of interest for "real shopaholics" is that the Ono što će zanimati „prave šopingholičare“ je da Tower Tower Center is the only one in town offering a free fashion Center jedini u gradu nudi i besplatnu uslugu modnog stylist service – a so called Personal Shopper, with whom 81

Svijet pogodnosti uz A world of benefits with the GOLDEN TOWER karticu GOLDEN TOWER card Tower Center svojim kupcima i posjetiteljima nudi The Tower Center provides its customers and visitors pogodnosti loyalty programa. U programu sudjeluje with loyalty program benefits. Taking part there are više od 70 trgovina centra, ali i subjekti iz okolice more than 70 stores from the centre as well as entiti- centra, iz Rijeke i regije. es from the Rijeka suburbs and from Rijeka and the Osnovni instrument loyalty programa je Golden region. Tower kartica. Da bi se postalo korisnikom GOL- The main instrument of the loyalty program is the Golden DEN TOWER KARTICE potrebno je ispuniti Tower card. To become a user of the GOLDEN TOWER pristupnicu koju se u svakom trenutku može dobiti CARD, it is necessary to fill in a membership application na info pultu na 4. katu Tower Centra Rijeka. Pri- form that can be obtained at any time from the Informa- stupnicu u PDF formatu je moguće skinutu i sa web tion Desk on the 4th floor of the Tower Center Rijeka. The stranice www.tower-center-rijeka.hr i Facebook application form in PDF format can also be downloaded stranice Tower Center Rijeka. from the www.tower-center-rijeka.hr website and Korisnik kartice mora biti punoljetna osoba. Nakon Facebook page Tower Center Rijeka. predaje propisno ispunjene pristupnice na info Cardholder must be over 18 years of age. Once the pultu TOWER CENTRA RIJEKA na četvrtom katu completed application form has been submitted to the korisniku će biti izdana GOLDEN TOWER kartica Information Desk of the TOWER CENTER RIJEKA on s kojom može direktno u kupovinu. the fourth floor, the user will be given his Golden Tower GOLDEN TOWER PROGRAM funkcionira na card, which he can immediately use and go shopping. način da se kod svake kupnje veće od 100 kuna The GOLDEN TOWER program functions in the bodovi prenose na GOLDEN TOWER KARTICU following way. With every purchase over 100 kuna, provlačenjem kartice na pripadajućem POS apara- credits are transferred to the GOLDEN TOWER tu u trgovinama koje sudjeluju u loyalty programu. CARD by swiping the card through the correspon- Trgovine koje sudjeluju u programu će biti označe- ding POS machine at those stores taking part in the ne naljepnicama na ulazu i na blagajna. Za svakih loyalty program. Shops participa- 100 kuna dobiva se 1 bod. Bodovi se ting in the program will be marked mogu koristiti kod with labels at the entrance and narednih kupnji at the cash desk. For every 100 za smanjivanje kunas spent, 1 credit will be given. računa u omjeru 1 Points can be used on subsequent bod=1 kuna. Osim purchases to reduce the total toga, TCR će za amount payable in the ratio of korisnike kartice 1 point = 1 kuna. Furthermore, organizirati i druge TCR will also arrange other pogodnosti i usluge, benefits and services, as well as akcije i nagradne activities and competitions for igre. cardholders.

stilista tzv. personal shoppera, s kojim klijenti bez muke u clients can easily find the ideal combination of clothes for trgovinama pronalaze idealnu odjevnu kombinaciju za sva- every occasion. ku prigodu. Besides shopping, the Tower Center Rijeka offers plenty of Osim kupovine, u Tower Centru Rijeka nudi se i pregršt entertainment, from multiplex cinemas or the slot club on zabave od multipleks kina ili automat kluba na petom katu the fifth floor of the centre to numerous cafes and restau- centra do mnogobrojnih kafića i restorana. Za najmlađe, tu rants. For children, there is a playroom on the second floor je dječja igraonica na drugom katu centra i brojni programi and numerous entertainment programs throughout the tijekom cijele godine osmišljeni kako bi se i mališani ovdje year, designed to make sure the kids feel good here too. dobro osjećali. How important the Tower Center is for Rijeka and its citi- Koliko Tower Center znači Rijeci i Riječanima i koliko je zens, and how it has become part of their everyday lives is postao dio njihove svakodnevice govori i činjenica da se na proof of the fact that this summer the closing evening of the njegovu krovu ovog ljeta odvija završnica najveće kulturne biggest cultural event, the Rijeka Summer Nights will be manifestacije, Riječkih ljetnih noći. held on its roof. 82

Press clipping - Kako nas drugi vide / As others see us http://www.foodandtravel.com/ http://www.foodandtravel.com/

Zašto posjetiti? Why go? Mnogi putnici koji posjećuju Hrvatsku hitaju Most travellers to Croatia speed of towards k otocima Krku, Cresu, Rabu ili Lošinju ili pak the islands of Krk, Cres, Rab or Lošinj or to ka prekrasnoj Opatijskoj Rivijeri koja se prote- Opatija’s glittering seaside Riviera. Rijeka is of- že uz more. U svemu tome je Rijeka često zane- ten forgotten in the mix, which is a shame beca- marena, što je šteta jer ona nije samo idealno use not only is the city an ideal jumping off po- polazište za istraživanje cijele županije, već je i int for exploring the region, it is a destination in sama po sebi prava turistička destinacija. Što- its own right. What’s more, even in the peak of više, čak i u vrhuncu sezone, turista je relativ- the tourists are relatively scarce. Located at the no malo. Smještena tamo gdje Jadransko more point where the Adriatic Sea penetrates Euro- duboko ulazi u unutrašnjost Europe, Rijeka je pe further inland, Rijeka has been a maritime još od doba Mlečana pomorski grad. city ever since Venetian times...

Što raditi? What to do? Riječki stari grad kojeg čini mnoštvo čudno uzdignutih zgrada s na- Rijeka’s downtown, formed out of huddles of orange-roofed buildin- rančastim krovovima malenih je dimenzija, pa vam je za razgledava- gs and the odd high-rise, is small, and a walking tour is easily com- nje potrebno tek sat ili dva. Posebna znamenitost je stari rimski luk, pleted in an hour or two. An old Roman arch is a particular highlight; ostatak antičkoga ulaza u upravno područje nekadašnje tvrđave. Na the ruins are of the ancient gateway to a fort’s command area. To the sjevernoj se strani, pokraj parka Nikole Hosta, nalaze Muzej grada north, a city museum and maritime history museum are situated by Rijeke i Pomorski i povijesni muzej Hrvatskog primorja. Katedrala the Park Nikole Hosta. St. Vitus Church is the symbol of Rijeka; con- Sv. Vida, čija je gradnja započela 1600-tih godina, a bilo je potrebno struction began in the 1600s and took a century to complete... čitavo jedno stoljeće da ju se dovrši, ...Nearby the waters of the harbour Riječki je simbol. are filed with bobbing fishing boats Akvatorij riječke luke pun je ribarskih and birds, in summer there are si- brodova i galebova, a tijekom ljeta tu ling regattas. se održavaju i jedriličarske regate. What to eat and drink Što jesti i piti? Rijekans pride themselves on their Riječani su ponosni na svoju sezon- seasonal eating - start chatting with sku prehranu - započnite čavrljati s any local about food, and it’s hard lokalnim ljudima o hrani i teško ćete to get them to stop. You must visit ih natjerati da stanu. Ne smijete za- a traditional konoba (tavern) typi- obići tradicionalne konobe, tipične cal of the Croatian coast: there are za hrvatsku obalu: ovakvih je ugosti- many of these eateries throughout teljskih objekata posvuda u gradu. the city.

Fotografija / Photo: TZ Rijeka - Rijeka Tourist Board Being in the very heart of Rijeka, Grand Hotel Bonavia is the life line of business travellers. Our state of the art Business centre

Grand Hotel Bonavia - in business since 1876.