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What a Gully

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What a Gully ~~GOLLY9 WHAT A GULLY / History does not record the words spoken by Don Garcia Lopez de Cardenas, proud captain of Castile, that memorable day in 1540 when he and his companions looked into the Grand Canyon, the first Europeans to do so. In all probability those words were strong, soldierly expletives, although a footsore scribe, of a poetical bent, recorded for posterity and prying eyes in Spain that the buttes and towers of the Canyon which "appeared from above to be the height of a man were higher than the tower of the Cathedral of Seville." An apt description, my capitan! The gentle Father Garces came along in 1776 and was quite .impressed by the canyon, giving it the name of "Puerto de Bucareli" in honor of a great Viceroy of Spain. James 0. Pattie, trapper and mountain man, arrived at the canyon in 1826, the first American tourist to visit there. Unfortunately there were no comfortable Fred Harvey accommoda­ tions awaiting him and he was pretty disgusted .with the whole thing . "Horrid mountains ," he wrote . Lt . Joseph Ives , an explorer, came to the "Big Canyon" in 1857 and "paused in wondering delight" but found the region "altogether valueless. Ours has been the first and will doubtless be the last party of whites to visit this profitless locality ," was his studied opinion. But the lieutenant's feet probably were hurting him and he should be forgiven his hasty words . John Wesley Powell, twelve years later, arrived at the canyon the exc1tmg way - by boat down the Colorado. To him it was the "Grand" Canyon and so to all the world it has been ever since. It didn 't take the tourists long to follow the explorers . In the early 1890's a stagecoach was in operation from the railroad junction sixty miles to the south. "T hem dudes is a'taking over the country," the oldtimers said. In 1901, the Santa Fe, with an eye for business and at the request of an ever -increasing traveling public , put in the railroad to the South Rim of Grand Canyon, and went so far as to call itself the Grand Canyon Line. vVhat the first Santa Fe locomotive said the day it chugged up to the Rim has not been re ~ corded, but we can assume it was "toot-toot" and let it go at that. Lt. Ives ' "pro fitless localit y" became a national monument in 1902 and a thousand square miles of it became a national park in 1913, the most valuable scenic treasure on earth. Nice going , Lieutenant! VVhat goes for mouse-traps also applies to canyons, it seems. Build a better one and the world will beat a path to your door. The visitors to Grand Canyon since this century began have numbered so man y thousands no one can say for certain. Men of all creeds and na ­ tionalities have found their way to the Rim . They have written millions of words about it, pnt it to music , painted it , stood mute before it. John Burroughs called it the "D ivine Abyss." John C. Van Dyke found it "more mysterious in its depths than the Himalayas in their height ." William Winter described it as "a pag ean t of ghastly desolation and yet of frightful vitality , such as neither Dante nor l\1ilton in their most sublime conceptions ever even approached. " Joaquin Miller, the great poet who sang of the mountains of California , could only ask of it, "Is any fifty miles of Mother Earth that I have known as fearful, or any part as fearful , as full of glory, as full of God?" John Muir, he of the great mind and the great heart , used strong words when he wrote of Grand Canyon and said: "It seems a gigantic statement for even nat ure to make all in one mighty stone word. Wildness so Godful, cosmic, primeval , bestows a new sense of earth's beauty and size ... But the colors-the living , rejoicing colors, chanting morning and evening, in chorus to heaven! Whose brush or pencil, however lovingly inspired , can give you these? In the supreme flaming glory of sunset , the whole canyon is transfigured, as if all the life and light of centuries of sunshine stored up in the rocks was now being poured forth as from one glorious fountain, flooding both earth and sky." Words of an inspired ma~ , truly inspired. But the greatest tributes to Grand Canyon have been paid by m any whose words were never written. A Sheik of Arabia, beturbaned and solemn, stood on the Rim and for several minutes murmured to himself. To his guide it sounded like a Moslem prayer. Thousands of ordinary people say nothing . and their silence is tribute enough. There is more than humo r in the statement of a Midwester:r:i farmer whose only comment was: "Heck of a place to lose a cow!" And there is deep meaning , too, in the way so many people exclaim "Gos h!" the first vvord that comes when the canyon appears before them. A president of the United States, William Howard Taft, a man who had seen n111ch of the world, was more eloquent than he thought when his first exclamation, on seeing the canyon, was heard by a guide nnd carefull y remembered. President Taft said: "Golly, what a gully!" .... R. C. ''PURPLE . DISTANCE" PAGE ONE OF ARIZONA HIGHWAYS FOR AUGUST , F>+7 Huhert A. Lowmnn SYMPHONY IN PURJPLEAND BLUE vsEH ~ HA:'ii\10:--'D CAR LSO N, lsditor G-eorge lW. Avey, Art Editor These August pag es are principally concerned with Grand Can­ yon and the Lake Mead and Colorado River recreational areas , th e Vol. XXIII ~ August, 1947 ~ No. 8 two most popular scenic attractions in the west. T rave l lit era ture has SIDNEY P . OSBORN been filled with both subjects. Travel wr iters and photog ra ph ers for (;overnor of Arizona generations to com e will try to capture their charm and appeal in word and picture. ARIZONA HIGHWAY COMMISSION Marc el N . Forman, Chairman ................................... Yuma We can assure you that we approached Grand Canyon with D ewey Farr, Vice-Chairm an .......................... St. John s considerable timidity; an d we can also assure you that after having H. 0. Pace , Member.. ....................... ............... Casa Grande gotten these few pages together, we have a greater respect for the H. Earl Rogge, Membe r.. ...................................... .... Clifton subject than ever before. Without a doubt Grand Canyon is on e Brice Covington , Memb er. ................................... Kingman of the most photographed subjects in Arizona, as our file of pictures on Gene Eag les, Execu tive Secretai·y .......... .............. Phoe ni x the canyon, filled with man y fine contributions, is evidence. The W. C. Lefebvre, State H ighway Engine er.. ...... Pho enix job of selecting th e pictures was a matter of painstaking elimination. H. G. Langrnacle, Specia l Counse l.. ..................... Phoe ni x We feel that those we have used are the finest set of Grand Canyon pictures ever put under one cover. They are studies of the canyon at LEGEND n earl y all seasons and from man y places. The center pages repre ­ sent a pictorial essay of the mu le trip from South Rim to North Rim and it is with pleasure that we offer it to you. Gene Morris, who took the pictures, lives at Grand Canyon and is rapidly establishing himself as an outst an ding photographer . Lon Garrison, genial gentleman of th e Park Service, penned a descrip tion of the trip for us. Gene's pictur es and Lon's words should cause you to have itchy feet if you are trave l-minded and are looking for a delightful travel experie nce . Also in this issue ther e is a story of Gra nd Canyon by J onreecl Lauri tzen of Shor t Creek, Arizona. Although we hav e read man y "Educated Mul es" ar ticl es about th e canyon, we have rea d few articles more inspir ed. As we have m entione d before, La uritzen is the author of "A rrows "From the South Rim" .................... FR ONT CovER into the Sun ," an hi stor ical novel whose setting is Southern Utah and Grund Canyon portrait by Fre el H . Ra gsda le. Northern Arizona. His second novel , "Song Before Sunrise," is in "Path Made of Rainbow" ...... .................... ...... 4· the hand s of his publishers and will appear this winter. He learned J onreecl La uritzen pa ints a word portrait of our his canyon the ha rd way-by endless hikes with pack on back into Canyon. all parts of it . He would set out from home with some new part Awatovi ............. ............................... ............... 1:2 of the canyon as his destina tion , leaving word that he would return Of a forgotten village in Hop ilancl. on such a day. If he did not return on that day , his family should "On The Trail" ................................................ 16 not be uricl.uly apprehensive. No t until he had been a week over ­ Trip by mul eback into Grand Canyon. due should a search be made for him . So far, how ever, he's always A Lake is Born ................... ............................. .... 28 returned on tim e and so far he's never failed us when we 've wanted Reminiscence s of Lake Mead in earl y days. him to do a story for us. It is with both pride and plea sure that we offer you his "Path Ma de of Rainbow ," a story of Grand Canyon, and The River and th e Lake ........................
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