~~GOLLY9 WHAT A GULLY /

History does not record the words spoken by Don Garcia Lopez de Cardenas, proud captain of Castile, that memorable day in 1540 when he and his companions looked into the , the first Europeans to do so. In all probability those words were strong, soldierly expletives, although a footsore scribe, of a poetical bent, recorded for posterity and prying eyes in Spain that the buttes and towers of the Canyon which "appeared from above to be the height of a man were higher than the tower of the Cathedral of Seville." An apt description, my capitan! The gentle Father Garces came along in 1776 and was quite .impressed by the canyon, giving it the name of "Puerto de Bucareli" in honor of a great Viceroy of Spain. James 0. Pattie, trapper and mountain man, arrived at the canyon in 1826, the first American tourist to visit there. Unfortunately there were no comfortable Fred Harvey accommoda­ tions awaiting him and he was pretty disgusted .with the whole thing . "Horrid mountains ," he wrote . Lt . Joseph Ives , an explorer, came to the "Big Canyon" in 1857 and "paused in wondering delight" but found the region "altogether valueless. Ours has been the first and will doubtless be the last party of whites to visit this profitless locality ," was his studied opinion. But the lieutenant's feet probably were hurting him and he should be forgiven his hasty words . John Wesley Powell, twelve years later, arrived at the canyon the exc1tmg way - by boat down the . To him it was the "Grand" Canyon and so to all the world it has been ever since. It didn 't take the tourists long to follow the explorers . In the early 1890's a stagecoach was in operation from the railroad junction sixty miles to the south. "T hem dudes is a'taking over the country," the oldtimers said. In 1901, the Santa Fe, with an eye for business and at the request of an ever -increasing traveling public , put in the railroad to the South Rim of Grand Canyon, and went so far as to call itself the Grand Canyon Line. vVhat the first Santa Fe locomotive said the day it chugged up to the Rim has not been re ~ corded, but we can assume it was "toot-toot" and let it go at that. Lt. Ives ' "pro fitless localit y" became a national monument in 1902 and a thousand square miles of it became a national park in 1913, the most valuable scenic treasure on earth. Nice going , Lieutenant! VVhat goes for mouse-traps also applies to canyons, it seems. Build a better one and the world will beat a path to your door. The visitors to Grand Canyon since this century began have numbered so man y thousands no one can say for certain. Men of all creeds and na ­ tionalities have found their way to the Rim . They have written millions of words about it, pnt it to music , painted it , stood mute before it. John Burroughs called it the "D ivine Abyss." John C. Van Dyke found it "more mysterious in its depths than the Himalayas in their height ." William Winter described it as "a pag ean t of ghastly desolation and yet of frightful vitality , such as neither Dante nor l\1ilton in their most sublime conceptions ever even approached. " Joaquin Miller, the great poet who sang of the mountains of , could only ask of it, "Is any fifty miles of Mother Earth that I have known as fearful, or any part as fearful , as full of glory, as full of God?" John Muir, he of the great mind and the great heart , used strong words when he wrote of Grand Canyon and said: "It seems a gigantic statement for even nat ure to make all in one mighty stone word. Wildness so Godful, cosmic, primeval , bestows a new sense of earth's beauty and size ... But the colors-the living , rejoicing colors, chanting morning and evening, in chorus to heaven! Whose brush or pencil, however lovingly inspired , can give you these? In the supreme flaming glory of sunset , the whole canyon is transfigured, as if all the life and light of centuries of sunshine stored up in the rocks was now being poured forth as from one glorious fountain, flooding both earth and sky." Words of an inspired ma~ , truly inspired. But the greatest tributes to Grand Canyon have been paid by m any whose words were never written. A Sheik of Arabia, beturbaned and solemn, stood on the Rim and for several minutes murmured to himself. To his guide it sounded like a Moslem prayer. Thousands of ordinary people say nothing . and their silence is tribute enough. There is more than humo r in the statement of a Midwester:r:i farmer whose only comment was: "Heck of a place to lose a cow!" And there is deep meaning , too, in the way so many people exclaim "Gos h!" the first vvord that comes when the canyon appears before them. A president of the United States, William Howard Taft, a man who had seen n111ch of the world, was more eloquent than he thought when his first exclamation, on seeing the canyon, was heard by a guide nnd carefull y remembered. President Taft said: "Golly, what a gully!" .... R. C.

''PURPLE . DISTANCE" PAGE ONE OF HIGHWAYS FOR AUGUST , F>+7 Huhert A. Lowmnn SYMPHONY IN

PURJPLEAND BLUE vsEH ~ HA:'ii\10:--'D CAR LSO N, lsditor G-eorge lW. Avey, Art Editor These August pag es are principally concerned with Grand Can­ yon and the and recreational areas , th e Vol. XXIII ~ August, 1947 ~ No. 8 two most popular scenic attractions in the west. T rave l lit era ture has SIDNEY P . OSBORN been filled with both subjects. Travel wr iters and photog ra ph ers for (;overnor of Arizona generations to com e will try to capture their charm and appeal in word and picture. ARIZONA HIGHWAY COMMISSION Marc el N . Forman, Chairman ...... Yuma We can assure you that we approached Grand Canyon with D ewey Farr, Vice-Chairm an ...... St. John s considerable timidity; an d we can also assure you that after having H. 0. Pace , Member...... Casa Grande gotten these few pages together, we have a greater respect for the H. Earl Rogge, Membe r...... Clifton subject than ever before. Without a doubt Grand Canyon is on e Brice Covington , Memb er...... Kingman of the most photographed subjects in Arizona, as our file of pictures on Gene Eag les, Execu tive Secretai·y ...... Phoe ni x the canyon, filled with man y fine contributions, is evidence. The W. C. Lefebvre, State H ighway Engine er...... Pho enix job of selecting th e pictures was a matter of painstaking elimination. H. G. Langrnacle, Specia l Counse l...... Phoe ni x We feel that those we have used are the finest set of Grand Canyon pictures ever put under one cover. They are studies of the canyon at LEGEND n earl y all seasons and from man y places. The center pages repre ­ sent a pictorial essay of the mu le trip from South Rim to North Rim and it is with pleasure that we offer it to you. Gene Morris, who took the pictures, lives at Grand Canyon and is rapidly establishing himself as an outst an ding photographer . Lon Garrison, genial gentleman of th e Park Service, penned a descrip tion of the trip for us. Gene's pictur es and Lon's words should cause you to have itchy feet if you are trave l-minded and are looking for a delightful travel experie nce . Also in this issue ther e is a story of Gra nd Canyon by J onreecl Lauri tzen of Shor t Creek, Arizona. Although we hav e read man y "Educated Mul es" ar ticl es about th e canyon, we have rea d few articles more inspir ed. As we have m entione d before, La uritzen is the author of "A rrows "From the South Rim" ...... FR ONT CovER into the Sun ," an hi stor ical novel whose setting is Southern and Grund Canyon portrait by Fre el H . Ra gsda le. Northern Arizona. His second novel , "Song Before Sunrise," is in "Path Made of Rainbow" ...... 4· the hand s of his publishers and will appear this winter. He learned J onreecl La uritzen pa ints a word portrait of our his canyon the ha rd way-by endless hikes with pack on back into Canyon. all parts of it . He would set out from home with some new part Awatovi ...... 1:2 of the canyon as his destina tion , leaving word that he would return Of a forgotten village in Hop ilancl. on such a day. If he did not return on that day , his family should "On The Trail" ...... 16 not be uricl.uly apprehensive. No t until he had been a week over ­ Trip by mul eback into Grand Canyon. due should a search be made for him . So far, how ever, he's always A Lake is Born ...... 28 returned on tim e and so far he's never failed us when we 've wanted Reminiscence s of Lake Mead in earl y days. him to do a story for us. It is with both pride and plea sure that we offer you his "Path Ma de of Rainbow ," a story of Grand Canyon, and The River and th e Lake ...... 32 a good one, too. . For trout and bass fish erm en! Yours Sinc erely ...... 40 A prop er comp anion subject to Grand Canyon is La ke Mead and The mail comes in from near and far. the blu e river below th e dams, because in a way both owe their exist­ ence to same author - the Colorado. vVhere the purpl e of Grand "A Glimpse of Lake Mea d" ...... BAcK CovER Canyon meets the blu e of Lake Mea d, a hundr ed miles or so upstr eam Freel H. Ragsdale visits th e in land sea . from , is where the beauty of one enhances that of th e A lU ZONA HIGHWAYS is p ubli shed mon t hl y by t he other. A few yea rs ago we made the tr ip by motor boat twe nty miles Ar izona I-I ig-hWay Departme nt, P hoe ni x, Arizo na. All co ni ­ up th e canyon. It was an incomparable travel pleasure . Silting munic at ions should be a ddr esse d to ARIZONA HIGHWAYS. A riz u n_a 1-Iig-hway D epar tm ent , P hoenix, A ri zona. 'l1he and the piling up of waste wood shortly afterwards in the upper 'l'ut·11'I: $,LOO per year, in U. S. and po ssess ions; $3.GO else• w here in the wor ld , 35 ce nt s pe r copy . reaches of th e lake has made it very difficult for the passage of boats "E u te recl as seco nd •class matt e r N ov. 5, 1941, at t he post up the canyo n, but if the time comes that the trip can be made we ol'f'ice in P\ 1oen ix , Arizo na, un cle,· th e Act of Mar . 3, 1878." promis e you this journal will have a couple of able photograph ers 011 Narr a t ive and illu strat ed mat erial h er ein publi shed a r e t he pr ope r ty of t he per so n to whom credit ed a ncl ca nn ot hand to recor d· the journey for you. You will not be disappointed he rep roduced wit hout permi ss ion. ARIZONA H I GHWAYS will not be respons ibl e fo r un so li cited manu scr ipts or illu s• with the lake as it is now nor with the river below Hoover and Park ­ t rations. Materia l contributed fo r editori a l co n sid erat ion er dams. The fishing is grand and if you are interest ed in more on shou ld be accompan ied by r et urn po stag e. ARIZONA H I GHWAYS is co pyr ight ed, 1047, h y 1:he that subject turn a few pages and see for yourself ..... R. C. A rizonn I-Ti.rdnvay D epartm -ent , P hoe ni x, Arizona.

"CANYON AND LAKE" PAGE THHEE OF AR IZONA HI GHWAYS FOR AUGUST, 1947 . William A. Belknap, Jr . tf

By JONREED LAURITZEN The Grand Canyon of Arizona is the gift of many mountains. From Sacajawea and the Little Sheep Moun­ tains come streams, and from snows along the Wind River Range and the Sierra Madres in . Glist­ en ing threads tug at the unravelling snowbanks along th e Continental Divide where it runs through three states. From the Elkheads and Bill Williams Fork in Colorado come trickles, and the Mountain of the Holy Cross sends down sacred water. From snows of the Sawatch and a thousand purple lakes on Grand Mesa come clear streams; and the crazy white ghost heads of the San Miguels shed tears for the River of Sorrows-Rio Dolores-by the pallisades of the Uncompahgre. From the high Uintahs in Utah, the sharp La Sals, the Bears Ears , the lofty Aquarius and Paunsagunt Plateaus come threads to strengthen the sinews of the River. From .a thousand pine and aspen forests, from miles of green mountain meadows the streams hurry down full of sunlight, flaked with the blue of mountain skies. When they join the great Colorado a new mood comes over them. Together they become an angry, grumbling, sinister thing. Through Ladore and Desolation and La barynth and Stillwater Canyons the River wanders in a worried course; assuming a false serenity through Glen. It hastens nervously as it passes through the reef of red cliffs by the Utah border, hoards its strength through and mosies almost silently toward the last ordeal. All at once it whips in against the to tear hell out of the mighty shoulders of Arizona. All before this was but a meditative prologue to the supreme epic; Earth in a struggle against the Dragon, the most vicious and agile of rivers. In still agony Earth flexes the huge muscles of the Kaibab , Kanab and Shiv- ( Pl ease turn to Page Nine) HERB McLAUGHLIN WILLIAM BELKNAP, R.

Of color, depth and distance, of mood, mystery and magnificence . . that is the Grand Canyon .. truly one of the wonders of the world! So big is this Canyon of ours no man in his lifetime can know all of it ... yet a drifting cloud can soon change its personality!

•

WILLIAM EYMANN PHOTOGRAPH BY JOSEF. MUENCH

( Continued from Page Four) wits Plateaus , straining upward to check the shining the mortals would never tell anyone about the country monster. The Dragon only gnaws more relentlessly, they had seen. Tavotz escorted Umbah and Yahlih back roaring and hissing as it sinks itself deeper into the hot toward their home , and to make sure that they would innards of the protagonist. And even as the struggle not remember what they had seen , he hung the deep trail goes on. the climax j~ there; a finale of major proportions , between the mountains vvith bla ck clouds and obscured. now hideous as purg'ltory, now moving as a Wagnerian the way with curtains of rain . Now the Sun-god was v1s10n. angry at Tavotz for blinding him with storms, and he In this battle of the giants the secrets of Earth's Billion burst through a rift in the lower clouds. His face was Years are laid open , tissue by tisssue , page by page. red with anger and it illumined chasms everywhere , so Earth's first chapter, the granite layer at the bottom of deep and full of night the lovers could see no end to them the canyon is without record of anv life whatsoever. In and were afraid. When the Sun -god saw how the lovers the Tonto layer (Cambrian Age) the beginnings of clung to each other his face brightened and lost its anger : unicellular life are preserved in fossil form; in the Temple He cast pale golden lights among the higher walls· and Butte Limestone (Devonian Age) ao1>ear evidences of made the towers shine like fire pillars to light their way, the earliest forms of fish; in the Redwall Limestone and he threw down rainbows for them to walk on as they (Mississippian Age) are deposits of shells , fish remains, went toward the east . · sea Ellies; in the Supai, Coconino, Toroweap, Kaibab For- When Umbah and Yahlih had come safely through , mations (all Permian Age) are flood plain deposits of the gods, to make doubly sure that no mortal would gb erstwhile mud containing fernlike impressions of plants, that way again, hurled a fierce torrent through the can­ land · animals, reptiles. At the highest rim is found the yon, to forever bar the feet of man to the Path Made of beginnings of the Fourth Era. For the rest of the story Rainbow. · we must go seventy miles north, to the Great Terraces Whether they had heard this legend or not, a num ­ which tell vividly the geologic story up to the glorious her of white men have in later years refus8d to be fright­ Age of Man. the Atomic _Age. ened by the torrent . The first to take up America's great The Indians of the region have no tale to tell of the challenge to the explorer was Maior John Wesley Powell, march of geologic ages. Their explanation of the origin one,armed scientist and poet-minded adventurer. He had of the Grand Canvon is simple, charming, human . This no knowledge of the Canyon except the stories of the is the way the Kaivavas told it: There was a warrior, awed natives and a few white men who had barely looked Urnbah, ~ho had a wife of such beauty that the gods of over its brink. To the natives , the gorges were filled with the west wind came and stole her and _took her into the spirits; to the white men who knew of it, the River was Sundown Country beyond the rims of the Mountains- beset vvith falls, and for long stretches it supposedly ran Lyi ng -Down - the Kaibab. Umbah stood all day outside through channels deep underground. his lodge c1nd grieved, making such a moan that people Powell and his men defied Tavotz and came through­ could not hear the thunder . This bothered Tavotz, the all except three men who deserted when the journey was storm god, for he wanted the people to hear his voice. So nearly ended . Others have grinned in the face of Tavotz he came to Umbah and told him he would take him to and lived . There is Buzz Holstrom, the chesty, singing his woman if he would never tell how he got there. Tavotz Swede, who made the first trip down th e River alone. cut a deep path through the mountains and led Umbah There are the Kolb Brothers, Emery and Ellsworth , who to the Sundown Country, which was a land of colored were pot satisfied when the y had gone down the River lights , shining clouds and rainbows . in boats; they must dc1sh, gnomelike, about the rims of It is said that Yahiin, tne woman of Umbah, had the Canyons and let themselves down into places such some mortal attributes that did not please the gods, but as the almost legend ary Cheye va Falls on Clear Creek . how ever that may be they gave her up , on condition that And they lived.

PAGE AUGUST, 1947 Photo by E. Leslie Eames

~~AWATOVI BY THELMA BONNEY HALL

Today we call it Awatovi, or sometimes Awatobi, points, and the purple and black wall of Roberts ' Mesa but three hundred years ago the Franciscan missionaries across the valley backed by a fantastic upheaval of cone., and small, in this region dating from about 500 A. D. to it is generally so accepted. After that , only Espejo and called it San Bernardo de Aguatubi. And before that, and spires in the southeast. the present. And at Awatovi itself they estimated 5,000 Onate came this way until 1628 when the Franciscan this numeronsly spelled name sings down the ages in And what of the pueblo itself? Row after row of rooms. These were not occupied simultaneously, but at Fathers Francisco de Porras and Andres Gutierrez, with pre-history. roofless rooms stare at the sky with vacant eyes. Straight, various times from the 13th century to the 18th. And in the lay-brother Cristabel de la Ccncepcion, settled down How long ago the first Hopi Indians came to this narrow mounds, scattered with flat masonry and pottery addition, there was the Spanish settlement of the 17th at Awatovi , and began the first serious attempt to Chris - arm of Antelope Mesa, east of their present pueblos, and sherds, mark the ruins of long-ago pueblo walls. A large century. tianize the Hopis. · constructed the first of these masonry rooms, the arch­ hollow shows that once a plaza was here, busy with That's a long record . . .. one to set the heart of any Always, however, the early militarists and the padres aeologists haven't yet established, but there are indications brown-skinned folk at their weaving. cooking and gossip. archaeologist to beating .... and one to set the imagination found much more ready acceptance at Awatovi than at that Tobar found them here in 1540. Certainly Espejo And dominating the whole, one wall and corner of th~ of even the casual tourist to wandering into unaccustomed the more westerly pueblos . The need of a grim determi ­ visited them in 1583, Onate in 1598, and in 1629 the Spanish church, the altar and one corner of the post-Re­ channels. nation to keep their own rdigious faith was there even in Franciscans authorized a church here, the earliest build- bellion church, rise like memorials to the undying de ­ Hopi legend, written history, and the Expedition 1540, and through the later yeo•rs it grew and flourished , . ing erected by civilized man in Arizona. termination of the padres. have combined to work out the story of Spanish occu­ broke into the open as eady as 1633. Now silence and the sage-brush desert possess it. The Beginning with 1935, the PPabody Museum of Amer ­ pancy at Awatovi, to give it all the glamour of that great On June ~8 of that year-, Father Porras , visiting Walpi ., dry wind murmurs and sighs, or shrieks and howls ac­ ican Archaeology an

PA.Gil: FOURTEEN OF ARIZONA HIGHWAYS FOR AUGUST, 1947 •• ON THE TRAIL"

BY LON GARRISON "All Aboard for the Bright Angel Trail!" The crowd around the corral at the head of the Bright Angel Trail on the South Rim of Grand Canyon National Park, presses forward-those with tickets for the trip line up at the gate; parents and friends excitedly push to the fence to watch the mounting of the mules. The curious ones just mill around and exclaim about the mules, the funny pants and W I T H C O L O R boots the cowboys wear, the weather, the dust, the time PHOTOGRAPHS they fell off a mule in a blackberry patch back in Indiana; the camera fiends circle the fence, squinting and squatting BY or even climbing trees to get an "angle," their light meters, GENE MORRIS assorted cameras, tripods, and miscellaneous high-priced paraphernalia clanking from their necks or their belts. And the mules? They stand patiently and quietly, forty of them, soft noses aligned against the corral fence, ears twitching at flies or sleepily at half-fast, eyes half­ closed. The Corral Boss collects tickets from the first six or eight dudes in line, they are admitted to the corral and the wranglers begin fitting the dudes to the mules and the saddles to the dudes. Overalls and long-sleeved shirts are standard clothing, with straw hats to protect faces and necks from the sun. Skirts and shorts are taboo, and the weight limit is two hundred pounds. Plump passengers are boosted into the saddle, cam­ eras and jackets are tied on with the slickers back of each saddle, the lunches are stuffed into saddlebags and slung back of the saddle on the lightest-loaded mule, and wrang­ ler swings onto his mule, and the crowd at the gate oper-.s to let the first party through. Cameras click, travelers wave to friends in the crowd, and the mules-one by one -walk slowly through the gate and over the tip-off. For this is the start of the Bright Angel Trail which ed for th e work. leads from the South Rim of the Grand Canyon N~tional The journey by muleback on the steep trail in Grand Canyon is truly memorable . The mules are carefully train Park in Northern Arizona. ( Please turn to Page Twenty-five) ! ..~

Each bend in the trail reveals exciting vistas. As you go down to the Canyon floor, geologic ages are recorded in Canyon walls. "GRAND CANYON" ANSEL ADAMS The towering walls of Grand Canyon dwarf the riders on the trail. Here is revealed in all its glory one of Nature's masterpieces. PHOTOGRAPH BY ( Continued from Pag e Sixteen ) WILLIAM Bl:LKNAP, JR. National Park Service officials fondly boast that it is the most famous trail in the world, and state with some justification that it is the most used trail in any national park in the United States. With a little prompting, they will expand this claim to indicate that it is the most used trail anywhere in the nation - or in the world, for that matter. In 1941, there were 8,030 mule trips into the Grand Canyon; and 9,952 in 1946. In addition , there were 8,934 hikers in 1946. A short distance below the tip-off is the first stop for a-picture of the group. Kolb Brothers' Studio commands a view of a section of the trail, and the party pauses brief­ ly for the pict lire which those interested can pick up on the return trip. The guide -turns his mule ar ound a short switchback, the others patiently follow, and the trip is under way! ' About one-half mile down the trail, the entire party stops while the guide goes over each mule carefully to be certain that cinches are tight, stirr~ps properly adjusted and everything in good condition for the trip ahead. This stop is' due to the habit the mules have formed through years of experience of taking and holding a deep breath when the saddle cinches are first tightened, so that after a short time the saddle becomes loose-bad business on any mountain trail and particularly on this one! There is a rush of questions - "What's my mule's name?" "Will he bite?" "Do you ever get kicked?" "Will he fall off?" But the wrangler is reassuring. "Lady, that mule is absolutely opposed to falling off. Just stay with him and you'll get there and back." What the wrangler does not have time to mention is that each mule takes the trip into the Canyon daily all summer, and some of them the year around. Also, each new mule purchased for trail use goes to school intensively for a long time before he is trusted with park visitors. This includes months of use in a pack string; and then a hor- geological slip known as faulting , and is really the reason rible period when he has to learn to stop-just stop­ noisy torrent-on quiet days the roar of rapids can be Rim, aome continue acrGas to the North Rim, and others why the Bright Angel Trail is possible. The trail follows whenever anything goes wrong . And the wranglers se e heard on the rim a mile and a half airline above the stream · plan a short trip for the day up Bright Angel Creek to this break in the earth's cru.t which runs across the Can­ that plenty goes wrong during school hours! Papers blow - but here it slips powerfully and silently past. Ribbon Falls and return to Phantom Ranch for the night . yon, south to north; and sometimes the trail is on one side past him , automobile tires run under him, saddl es turn calla for just five and one-half of the fault and sometimes on the other, but always the The National Park Service at this point has installed The Ribbon Falls trip and drag, slickers flap wildly in his face. If he survives Angel Creek - a miniature strata on the west are 180 feet higher than the correspond­ a small rock rest house with a trailside exhibit. One miles of riding up Bright these tests, he is ridden by a guide for a few more weeks trail follows the bottom of the Can­ ing strata on the east, and this makes possible the drops case is empty and without glass. "Exhibit in preparation," Gra.nd Canyon. The and is then put into the dude string . seven times and winding through over the cliffs which seem absolutely sheer from abov~. reads the label. But the guide may tell his party that, yon, crossing the creek While cinches are being checked, the party also gets Creek The alternating bands of shale and sandstone sandwiched after the exhibits were prepared and in place with a plate the sharp, deep gorge known as The Box, to Ribbon accustomed to another trait the mules have . They are stream , leaping around between the limestone cliffs carry the trail the entire glass front carried eight miles down to this place by hand and Ribbon Falls. This little trained at each stop to line up across the trail with their the west wall in gorgeous white distance. by CCC crews in 1939, some wanton vandal in 1946 broke seventy-five feet from heads out over the edge, their tails to the wall . This pre ­ the glass and carried off most of the exhibits and labels, spray, is more vivid for the dark granite background , and One visitor is reading from a map and booklet ac­ vents them from accidentally backing off the edge, and only to discard them before reaching the Canyon rim. startling in its beauty and its very existence . For this quired the day before, and identifying the various strata also has the added advantage of giving the riders magni­ This senseless vandalism is increasing and is a constant is desert country, except for the narrow strip at the wat­ the rim­ above. Against the sky, the , grayish ficent views of the Grand Canyon from below source of concern 1:o the park rangers and naturalists. er's edge along the Creek, and water and a waterfall in that is, after they get used to the sensation of having noth­ white cliffs on top of the , a thick white , At this point, following lunch, the day party to the this arid location is a contrast difficult to comprehend. ing but space out in front of them! wind-laid material, giving the strong white band visible After securing photographic evidence of this contradic­ walls on both rims . Below this River starts the long, slow climb back to the South Rim- . Ahead and to the north, the canyon deepens, ledge near the top of the Canyon tion, the party returns to Phantom Ranch for the night. lies the Supai formation, shale and sandstone, bright red, 4,500 feet of elevation, taking four hours of riding, com­ on ledge, colorful strata on top of others even more vivid, pared with three hours down. At Indian Gardens they "All Aboard!" Only this time it is the Kaibab Trail. with ranks of projecting points shouldering from the and so strong in iron oxides that the stain has washed down onto the Redwall limestone below to color these will meet the Phantom Ranch party, stopped for lunch At_ 9:00 A. M., the wrangler leads the way back down South Rim and fading into the distance thirty miles to and . waiting for the River party to clear the trail below. Bright An~el Creek, across the suspensio;n bridge, but in­ the east. The walls below the points emphasize the color­ magnificent cliffs a uniform red the length of the Canyon. Red they are-dull or brilliant, depending on the caprices This group, after reaching the River, follow the River stead of following the River Trial and the Bright Angel ed layers of the Canyon formations; and even at this first Trail on the return trip, the party heads up the shorter of the light and the sun , yet chip the surface through the Trail, built by the CCC in 1939 for two miles upstream to stop, these walls loom mightily overhead. Below, 4,000 section of the Kaibab Trail. This thin layer of iron stain and the rock is revealed as charac­ the Kaibab Trail, which cro5ses from Yaki Point on the and more abrupt south feet down, lies the Colorado River, invisible from here but was constructed in 1929, maki:qg a loop trip to Phantom teristically blue-gray limestone. Below this, and immedi­ South Ripi to Bright Angel Point on the North Rim, 20.6 leaving everywhere erosion evidence of the tremendous Ranch. The south section of the Kaibab Trail is 6.5 miles ately above Indian Gardens, the Muav limestone and the miles cross-canyon. force expended through past ages . South Rim at Yaki Point , just four Bright Angel shale-pale, yellowish-green strata, the lat­ The river is crossed by a smpension bridge con­ lo~g and comes to the A colorful spot of green almost straight below, where miles east of Grand Canyon Village . It is a dry trail­ ter strongly benched to form the Tonto Plateau. Tonto, structed by the National Park Service in 1929, replacing the steeply sloping Canyon walls give way to a little open it at any place, so full canteens the Indians say, is a word meaning "foolish," and anyone an earlier suspension bridge completed in 1922. Prior there is no water along valley at the upper edge of the narrow Tonto Plateau, is are carried with the lunch. who imagines that the Plateau is the flat bench above the to that time, the river was crossed by cable car or by boat identified by the guide as Indian Gardens. "Yup, we'll be up-plod and plod-here the traveler has it appears from the Rim is, indeed -always a gamble at best. Up and there in a couple hours," he comments . "Rest stop." Inner Gorge that "Tonto ." ' A short tunnel, and the mule string is on the bridge, ample time to view and to appreciate the scenery spread The mules move on- plod, plod, plod. Never faster 440 feet long and about 60 feet above the muddy, turbulent so majestically before him . In reverse order he passes Indian Gardens was originally settled b y the Hava­ than a brisk walk-never bothered by the switchbacks or Colorado River. Scant wonder that the early Spaniards through the geological strata he traversed on the trip down . supai Indians who had a makeshift trail to their farms by the precipices which are always on one side of the trail. named it th

PAIJii.: TWENTY-SIX OF ARIZONA HIGHWAYS FOR AUGUST , 1941 Stor y and Photographs By RUSSELL K. GRATER

They say it is a sure sign of old age when a fellow being a highl y stabl e ar ea, the propos ed dam site was full starts reminiscing, but seeing the placid blue waters of of fractured zones that would hav e mad e it a risky ma t­ Lake Mead today always bring back to mind days when ter to construct a dam at that point. On e g ood earthqu ake it was an entirely different sort of lake-a lake whose might cause th e destru ction of th e whol e thin g. Thu s it birth only twelve short years ago bordered on the dramatic. was that Hoo ver Dam was eventuall y built severa l mil es It all began in June, 1935. For days every detail had downstream in Black Can yon . " been carefully chf:cked in preparation for the blowing Miles to th e north of Bould,)r Canyon there was a of the cofferdams . Explosives were placed , everything r e­ stir of a ctivit y at th e little to wn of St. Th omas a lon g t h e moved that had to be taken out, and then a muffled roar valley of th e Mudd y River. F or a lon g tim e th e resi den ts rolled back and forth between the walls of the Black Can­ of this small s ettl em ent h ad kn own that th e lake w ould yon, and Lake Mead was no longer a dream child on a eventually r each their fields and hom es, and th ey were drawing board but . an actuality . prepared to move- that is, most o{ th em . vVhen th e first Like many a dream child its early youth was one glimpse of th e lake Vlaters w,is seen roundin g tl-ie bend of turbulence and excitement rather than peace and near the juncti on of th e Mudd y and Virg in Rivers th e serenity. At the upper end of Black Canyon the swirling town was virtuall y deserted . Th e water approac hed ra pid ­ waters of the muddy Colorado quickly s~allowed up the ly as the v alley wa s relativel y flat, and at th at tim e th e sprawling shack city where so many people lived during lake was risin g a t th e rate of ab out an in ch per h our. It the early days of the construction of the dam . More than wasn 't a ver y wise thing to leav e a c ar par ked near th e one person heaved a sigh of relief or regret , as the case water and be gon e f0r even a few minut es. So ra pidl y was might be, as it disappeared beneath the water , leavin g it coming in th at it could actu ally be seen cree pin g in to only a few boards and debris as floating reminders of the shallow depr essions or up old furro ws i n th e fields. what had once been there. As the lake invad ed one side of th e town th ere was fe ver­ The first real casualty of the rapidly growing lake ish activity on th e oth er side. Two famili es had wait ed was old Fort Callville, located several miles upstream until th e last minute to g et out , and n ow tim e was ra pidly from the dam at the lower end of Boulder Canyon . The running out. At on e hous e a tru ck w as backed up to th e old fort was an historic relic of a bygone era when intr e­ front door and hous ehold effects w ere hastil y tossed on pid river men tried to tame the Colorado and haul pro ­ even as the wat er was cre eping around th e backdoor ste p. duce from the settlements of southern by steam­ At the other house th e situation w as eve n m ore c ritic al boat to markets i.n California. In those days Fort Callville as the little tru ck assigned to do th e job p rove d in adequ ate was an important link in the journey down the river. But , and was finall y forced to leave . Th e last of th e furnitur e where it had managed to withstand the uncertainties of and oth er b elon ging s left via a window and rowboat! its dav, it was now nu match for the 'waters of the lake. Near St . Thomas still anoth er los s was ex perien ced Beyond the Fort the waters rose rapidly through the as one of the ar cheological gems of th e region was de ­ nanow confines of Boulder Canyon. It was here that the stroyed - the Lost City. Discovered sev er al y ears b efor e, original dam site was selected . Its high walls seemed to it had been carefull y excavated to learn who thes e e arl y make it a perfect location, until geologists and engineers people wer e who had settled the Mudd y Riv er r egion. Th e began probing around a bit and uncovered eviden ce that excavations uncov ered th e ruin s of a numb er of d well­ the region wasn't all it seemed on the surface. Inst ead of ings , ~ost of which were immediat ely reconstr ucted on

PAGE TWENTY -NI NE OF ARIZONA HI GHWAYS F OR AUGUST, 1947 their original sites . From the artifacts round in the ruins sense of sportsm .. nship some marksman must have had! it was possible to rather accurately reconstruct the mode Farther up the lake, on the arm, another of living of these early Indians. The Lost City it was ram was found on an island. Interest here also centered named - and now the Lost City was to be permanently 0n a neighbor of his, a coyote . For months both lived in lost. One day it was possible to sit on the rock bench apparent harmony on their private island. It was here above the buildings, where the presence of numerous that sympathetic locals decided the lonesome ram needed mortar holes conjured up visions of Indian women grind­ company, so two bighorn ewes were trapped and moved ing corn meal , and watch the eager waters of the lake out to share his solitude! eating awa y at the foundations of the houses; and, the It was on such islands that accurnte studies were made next day find only floating sticks and debris to mark ~he of the animal species of the region , and some were col­ final resting place of these ancient buildings. It was hke lected that had not previously been known to occur there. attending the final rites for an old friend to take the last Sacks of lizards were hauled to the mainland where they photographs of the buildings before they began to crumble. were emptied out on the shore, there to sweep up the rocky While most of the att ention was being centered upon slopes like an animated wave. the disappearance of these old landmarks, there was an­ Down in Hemenway Wash the approach of the lake other side of the picture that went virtually unnoticed. must thave created consternation among a family of kit Upstream from the dam the wildlife populations in the foxes. Situated in the ~ide of a gravel wash, the fox den valleys and canyons were experiencing rapidly changing seemed well situated for raising a family, and here five conditions that were every bit as dramatic as anything fuzzy little fellows were born. The family was discovered that happened at St. Thomas. From thousands of burrows just a few days before the rising waters threatened to raced scores of small rodents as the waters forced them flood them out . It was possible to drive a car to within to seek refuge on higher points of land. In an incredibly a few yards of the den, and each night for over a week short time every hilltop-now a rapidly disappearing the family _was watched from the car with the aid of a The waters of Lake Mead have buried the Lost City . Photo taken in the spring of 1938 just before ruins disappeared . island-was swarming with animal life . flashlight . The playful pups would come crowding from It was a most unusual experience to visit these small the den, all eyes and big ears as they peered curiously at As the lake moved on up the old Colorado River chan­ our boat into the ·foaming waters of Separation Rapids at islands by rowboat. As the boat approached a tiny point the light. Then would come a rough and tumble tussle nel into lower Grand Canyon, it opened up regions that the extreme upper end of Lake Mead , and, with motor of land jutting from the water, the rocks seemed to literal­ as they awkwardly tugged and pulled at each other . Up until now were relatively unknown except for a few pulling its best, unable to make an inch of headway-all ly crawl with every type of small · animal found in the the steep gravel bank they would struggle and then down iron nerved rivermen like the early expedition of 1869 these are events that even time cannot erase . region . Sheltered rocky coves were CW\ivded with tiny again, sliding and often roHing to the bottom amid a under Major John W. Powell, the Kolb brothers of more Nor can one forget the days in the spring of 1938 pocket mice, white-footed mice, wood rats and kangaroo shower of small pebbles. What a happy family they were! recent time and others. Many are the interesting events when the great weight of the rapidly forming lake caused rats, while cottontails and jack rabbits hopped about un­ One night it was apparent that they could not stay longer that took place here - the inexorable swallowing up by slippage in the rock formations and earthquakes jarred easily on the more open areas. Clinging all over the rocks than another day before the water would enter the den, the lake of ribbon-like Emory Falls; the finding of the the entire locality. Walls were cracked in Boulder City , were lizards of various sizes and colors, stolidly awaiting and so camera equipment was brought along the next small cave several hundred feet above the lake by Willis rocks tumbled into Black Canyon downstream from the whatever the future might bring to them, and moving evening. With the aid of photo-flashes a group of pictures Evans - an Indian - which later became known as Ram­ dam and dust rose above the rim of the canyon in more only when the rising waters began to lap against their was obtained as the old foxes moved the pups to higher part Cave and the site of an amazing collection of pre­ than one place, while residents wondered what effect it scaly sides. As the prow of the boat touched the island, ground somewhere back up in the low mountains above historic animal life that included such huge creatures as might have on the dam itself. Those were stirring days activity began to pick up . Here was a place for expansion! the wash. the ground sloth ; the finding of other nearby caves that Yes, Lake Mead is now approaching a more sedate In no time at all the boat took on the appearance of a Naturally the creation of the lake brought with it a early Indians had used as homes; the exploration of age and there is little today that reminds one of those dra­ miniature Noah's Ark as small rodents, and even lizards, fisherman's paradise. Larger and larger were the bass Quartermaster Canyon with its beautiful waterfall, the matic early days of its birth . To those who witnessed thos e clambe"red aboard and took refuge beneath anything that that were caught. Soon it ceased to be news when some­ mute remains of an old house and primitive irrigation turbulent days, however , there is a certain touch of nos­ was available . Stepping ashore was a rather erie feeling . one brought in an eight pounder! As though to furnish system, and innumerable black burros now gone wild talgia that creeps in whenever the blowing of the coffer ­ The wildlife kingdom on the island was represented by a climax for the fishing fraternity, Yarious parties began and populating the region like flies; running the nose of dams is mentioned. more than just the small mammals and lizards that first to come in with tales of strikes that almost yanked the caught the eye. A flashing, slender figure darting around fisherman from the boat-but the fish got away! Then Whe1i lake was formed wild burros were trapped on islands . Fox family caught by rising lake waters later were freed . behind a rock disclosed the presence of a snake-a Red the mystery was cleared up. A man brought in · a huge Racer - while warning buzzes from more than one nearby fish that had all the appearance of some kind of a salmon shelter were enough to instantly guarantee caution. Meet­ -the Colorado River Salmon it was, or more accurately , ing one rattlesnake is usually enough excitement for any­ the Colorado River Squawfish. It grows large, this biggest one, but finding several short-tempered fellows on a of our American carp, and has been known to reach a single, small rocky point , without any knowledge as to length of five feet and a weight of eighty pounds. No just where any individual is located, is enough to cause wonder these fishermen talked about a fish hitting a plug an unfamiliar chill or two. These rattlers were usually "like a ton of brick!" ready for anything - disturbed, irritated and ready to take But not all fishermen caught fish, some caught lizards! a crack at whatever might come within range. They It was found that the collared lizard, that was often found didn't know what was happening, but they did know they on the rocky slopes near the lake, couldn't seem to resist didn't like it! a plug any more than a hungry bass. So, on more than One large island at the lower end of Boulder Canyon one occasion some of the staunchest fellowers of Isaac Wal­ became a primary attraction when it was discovered that ton tradition were observed trying their skill at "lizard a bighorn-a huge ram-was trapped there by the rising baiting"-casting a plug ashore and seeing if it could be waters. He became quite a tourist attraction, and was retrieved before the lizard could catch up with it! viewed with eager curiosity from the boats headed up the Not everyone went fishing, however. Here and there lake . Food was hauled out and left on the island for him sails began to blossom out on the lake as the more nauti­ and he never failed to make an appearance before his ap­ cally •inclined folks tried their luck at tacking in the preciative audience-until one day he failed to show up. desert winds. Great w.is the excitement the day a full A search of the island quickly 11ncov€red him, lying fledged eight meter racing boat was put in the water and dead with a bullet hole in his skull. What a wonderful everyone took turns riding it to the dam and beck . 01' Mother Nature had made one wild sweep with her brush down the side of that fish. Then she had, dipped that brush in a dozen or more paints before she tossed her finny handiwork aside, labeled "Rainbow." There he lay, blood red on his gill covers. The "rainbow" stripe that reached to his tail was shaded from pin], t<, scarlet and tinted along the edges with orange . His fins were orange, tipped with white. Just to touch him off, Mammy Nature had waved a spray gun of silver paint in his direction before she threw him in the Colorado River for us to catch! "Man, oh man," Bruce Dickey sighed reverently. "Look at him. Lit up like a neon sign." The fish was, too! This trout had just come out of the wild, turbulent, cold-green waters of the Colorado River. It was a good nineteen inches long, thick and mus­ cular. It had p~1t np a terrific fight out there in the boil­ ing, swirling current. Once, the Colorado River was "too thick to drink an

· water formed by a river once a wild, mean, muddy torr ent. Lake M ead and the waters of the Colorado . River below the dams are becoming more and mor e popular to the western sportsman. Trout and bass fishermen find record prizes awaiting their lures in

JOH N ANTHONY RA N DAZZO hours' fishing, or a week 's camping. The y' ll drop in on as he exp lained, "Bi ll Brummitt, from Kingman , tried to operative plan be worked out, because it is impossible to This relativel y new fishing water was discovered b~r you daily if you want to make a prolonged stay. cross that rapids in a boat. It turned him over and he consider the Colorado River below Hoover Dam anything Tommy Kinder, who pioneered a boat landing on the west but fine fishing water for the entire west. bank of the river just above Parker. Boats , motors and If you have your own boat and motor, they'll help lost all his fishing tackle, motors, and everything in the cabins are available at his Colorado River Boat Camp. you launch it and advise you about th e river and the boat . He landed on that bar down there." So far as is known, the record catch is 281/z inches fishing. And-in passing-don't take lightly the advice The second one he hooked showed me how mistaken of "rainbow ." This wasn't the fantastic fish dream of Bass fishing on the river has gained such attention about the river, its currents and rapids ! The Co lorado I was about the first one. The butt of his rod took the some overheated ang ler; it weighed 6¼, pounds. But, the nmong the West's anglers that a half dozen other fishing River below Hoover Dam riffles through the gorge at ap­ strain and Ed was forced to give him lin e, stripping it thing that's exciting to ponder is this: scale readings of camps have been set up. proximate ly 11 miles per hour. She pulls a fourteen-foot from the reel , but giving up every inch re luctant ly. It the trout caught (much like tree ring readings, fish­ A host elr y of excellent uccommodations offering guest skiff with a 22 hor sepowere d motor to her bosom , and can was n_o use. The trout took it all. He got into the fast culturists tell us) show that none of several hundred re­ rooms with hotel furnishings, shower b:iths and meals ha s and will give you a wild dance if you get care less. In no water and away he went with the surplus on Ed's reel. corded are over four years old! just been finished , and will offer its services this fall. case should you be out of reach of a buoyant boat cushion When it was all spoo led off, Ed clamped down. The That fact, plus the remembrance th at the first trout River Lodge , a s it is called , caters especia lly to the man or life -jacket. Boating is safe-if proper respect is paid leader parted at the lure, and Ed reeled in, laughing, "I'll were put in the river right after Hoover Dam was dedicat­ who's get "fishin' fever" and is serious and wants to do the swirling green skirts of the old gal from the north. get him-yet!" You could tell his laugh was genuine ed in 19 36 gives a feller goose bumps. Somewhere in th at something ab :mt it. It is just two miles helow Purker About tackle to use , it might be best to tell you about because as we idled downstream toward Willow Beach bf' sixty miles of this might y trout stream is a fish or two-or Dam on the west bank. my last trip with Ed Williams from Kingman. He is the was still talking a bout the "big one." more-close to eleven years old! Boats, motors and cabins are available at other camps one man who probably knows more about angling for the Between sheer walls, where no one else would stop, I wonder how much the titan weighs? I wonder along the river. mighty river trout than any one other individual. Ed said, "Let's troll." when , where, and who'll catch him? Fishing the river has a distinct appeal of its own. The Ed uses both the short bait-cas ting rod and the long, We rigged up short bait-casting rods that are stiffer Let me know if you do! current is fairly strong, and to the uninitiated would be light fly rod . When we first went out that morning, we than fly rods and can stand the strain of constant pressure. The Colorado, the ol' ga l with the swirling blue-green · pass ed up . . .. but , mister, let me tell you that from went upstream from Willow Beach into the faster waters. This time we used bigger flatfish. skirts, has other surprises, too! Both above and below River Lodge en down past Tommy Kinder's clear to Squaw He pulled in below the first rapids and we got out the fly "Let out about a hundred feet of line," advised Ed , the stretc h of icy-cold water which offers such excellent Dam are some of the most exciting moments! reds. In his choice of light lures , he had spinners, stream­ throttling the motor to idling speed. trout fishing , is warm water game fishing! George Savar d of River Lodge had Nelson Huie and er flies, darters, and a small, deep-diving wobbling lure , His technique was interesting. He followed the back Yes, in Lake Mead above Hoover Dam and then me in a boat on e night. It was two o'clock in the morning, common ly called flatfish. The smaller wobblers used water close to the wall, upstream , then quartered down­ ugain below site marking the low er e nd 0£ to b e exact. We ·were anchored in a fast run below n with the fly rods come in a var iety of co lors. Ed prefers stream to the other side in a zig-zagging course. At all the cold trout water in the Colorado is some of the finest gravel bar-and we were fishin' for channel cats! the black with o _range tinting, and the orange one with times he was fishing , pumping his rod to give the flatfish bass fishing in the Southwest. We'd let cut a hundred or more feet of lin e weighted black tinting. · accentuated action, reeling in until he could see his lure The place commanding the uttention of most ba ss with heavy sinkers , to penetrate that powerful current. We waded out in the back eddy as far as we could and letting out line until he only had a layer of thread fishermen on Lake Mead is Temple Bar on the ArizonR There we'd sit , the black , oily-appearing water swirl­ in our rubber boots and cast to the edge of the fast water on the spool. side. You can reach it from junctions on Highway 66 ing and gurgling past the boat and gently nudging it . Now funneling through the rapids. The swift current whips His method was productive. Again and again we west of Seligm an and then from a junction en the King­ c1nd then a star would fall out of the blue-bl ack sky. the lure downstream , and it is retrieved in short, erratic hooked the mighty river trout. Some we turned loose, man-Hoover Dam Highway . VVe'd feel more than hear the whisper of the owl's wings. moves. some we kept, and some got away. Those we lost always There are no accommodations at Temple Bar, and Off in the dist ance along the shore a bullfrog stroked his There'll be no doubt in your mind what it is when gained a big roaring cheer from Ed, and the comment, only a few boats to rent. Bass fisherman should have bow on the bass string as he tuned up for the concert . the trout hits. The lin e will zip through your fingers and "The fellow that -gets him will earn him." their own boats and motors and be prepared to make their We talked as men will in the black cf night, about you' ll be fast indeed if you can hold your balance without To complete the picture of the Colorado River below own camp. .... and, suddenly, in the middle of a well-tuned gem of taking a step to recover. Hoover Dam , and its trout fishing , it is necessary to visit Surface plugs and deep running artificials provoke philosophical thought would come a surge on the lin e. I saw Ed take one in that spot . The fish tock his line, Emery's landing on the Nevada side of the river. You Lake Mead bass into striking. Record weight fish ure would be a sullen, stubborn , sleek catfish. He'd always by the yard, but Ed, wised up on Colorado River trout , reach it via Searchlight and Nelson, Nevada. taken regularly with six and seven pounders fairly com­ have it on his mind to head for Mexican waters, which turned him before he got int o the fast water. There in Cabins, meals, boats and motors are there for those mon. makes it interesting! th e back water of the eddy he leaped. They always do who want to tap the famous trout fishing of the Colorado V\Then the lake's right . almost anytime from Sep­ We landed a dozen or more. The next night we had in the Colorado, not once, but several times . lower down ·the river than at Willow Beach. tember to mid June, pluggin' for bass on Mead is .... a catfish fry! A mile or so upstream, from the first catch, at another Emery's Landing was pioneered, and is still operated well, you can cast out a go-deeper, craw ler or d ing- bat and Or lik e the time Tommy Kinder wound up the out­ rapids we beached our boat again. This tim e it was Rex by one of the most colorful of the rivermen-Merle Emery. the water's so clear that you can see 'em come out after :it! board and took us downstream from his place. Tommy Bowen, our companion, ye lling , "Hey, I've got one!" He Incidentally, Merle ferried the first reclamation engineers Quite a few anglers have joined the "two on one" club not only runs a fishing camp, but he fishes, and how! was fishing far down the beach. The low sun shining up the Colorado, through Boulder and Black Canyons, while fishing the lake. I mean cutching two bass on one I was in the prow and he stood in the stern , on one through an overcast sky back -lighted him and the rippling while they studied the wa lls and picked the site for the lure! foot, the other was on the guiding handle of the motor. water. His rod was arched, straining against the boring huge impoundment now wor ld-famou s. One especially nic e feature about fishing the lake It was throttled down until we barely made headway fish. Suddenly it snapped straight, the line fell slack in A recent survey of the- trout fishing on the river is that you're not overrun with other fishermen. For here against the current. Tom skillfully swung the boat in · his hand. The fish whirled up out of the depths and revealed that the fishing pressure is divided approximate­ is a small inland sea, 125 miles long , with probably a thou­ and cut , following the shoreline at ju st the right distance shook himself violently against the backdrop of rippling ly 40-60 between Willow Beach and Emery's Landing. sund miles of coves, back waters and bays where you can for casting . silver. Again and again he leap ed high , shaking the loose An average of a thousand trout every month come in put in a whole day of casting and not be bothered! We were using highl y polish ed spoons. They slipped flatfis h hooked in his mouth as a terrier shakes a rag. Rex ·to Emery's Landing. Each passing week the traffic is Too, if you fill vour limit of bass , which is ten fish into the clear blue water and as we retrieved they tumbled had lost him, and it wasn't long before the trout loos ened heavier, as those who fish for the battlers of the cold-green or fifteen pounds and one fish, you can try for channel and darted, sending rays of light into the depths. Every the hocks and the lure went sailing away down the Colo­ waters bring mere and more friends to this fine fishing cats, crappies and bluegills. now und th en we'd catch sight of a swift ly-moving rado. Still the trout was imad, and he rolled on the sur­ stream. What more can a man want? shadow coming out from under the gnarled roots, an over­ face three more times before he soun ded . At present , the U. S. Fis h and Wildlife Service, the Perhaps it's river fishing for bass , channels, crappies hanging bank . or a sunken log. Almost faster than you Then, Ed suggested we move on upriver in the boat. Nevada and Arizona Game and Fish Commission all parti­ and bluegills-then take a surfaced highway to Parker, could react, it would attach itself to that glistening spoon , Towering walls of water-carved stone leaned over us as cipate in stocking the West's finest trout water. It is Arizona en the Colorado River. It's the sesame to Lake the lin e would tighten and the rod would bow respect ­ we thundered up the river, our outboard's throb reverber­ estimated there is about a 15% natural hatch of trout in Havasu equal to Lake Mead in warm water game fish fully to the fighter from the deep, and Tom would chortle ating between the palisades of rock. the river, as well as that produced in the hatcheries. offerings . Both Havasu and Mead have produced prize­ advice as he shut off the motor. · The old river man pulled in below another tumbling Now, a Nevada fishing license is required on the winners in national fishing contests-and in the ten , Then , as we'd drift back with th e current , that ba ss rapids. The beach was white, river-washed sand. A ba ,· Nevada side of the River, and an Arizona fishing license eleven and twelve-pound classes! wou ld put up his fight! of boulders piled the flow up into a roaring mass of white is required on the Arizona side. A cooperative agreement Rapidly gaining favor with fishermen from California, To me, the Colorado River and its lak es are .... well, water. I asked Ed if it had a name. once existed between the two states, but the Arizona Game Oregon, Washington, Texas and hosts of Arizona nimrocls I just don 't have the right words in my vocabulary, so I'll "No," he says, "We hav en't really named it yet, but and Fish Commission saw fit to terminate it at the begin­ is that stretch cf the Colorado below which just say: "man , it's good fishin' there. " Any fisherman we do call it the 'Brummitt Bumps.' " He chuckled a little ning of this year. Many feel it is imperative another co- backs up . vvill understand what's wrapped up in those words.

PACE THIRTY -EIGHT OF ARIZONA HIGHWAYS FOR AUGUST, 194-7 ''THE COLORADO LEAVING HOOV~A~" _____BY... . JERRY_ MCLAIN

(Co;ztinu 2d from Page Thirty-Tw o) Up to 1940 very few individuals knew about the trout This time it was "Dutch " Derr , not long from the in the Colorado River. But that year the Mohave County bleakness of Attu , in the Aleutians. Dutch was not a sec­ Game Protective Association sponsored one of the issue8 ondclass fisherman! He had angled for trout in Alaska and of Arizona Wild-Life Sportsman, Arizona 's organized hun ­ Canada. He had landed them in the Appalachians. And ters' and fishermen's magazine. On the back of it was when he hooked onto that eighteen incher in the eddy of an illustration of two trout, one on each side of a yard­ the Cave Rapids he leaned back on his heels . stick. The tails reached right into the 27th inch! The trout was out on plenty of line. Dutch was using That is when the excitement began. And, since then a flyrod-and the fish, he was out in the middle of that the caravans of anglers have been increasing in length swift, white water. a~d frequency in paying homage to those clear waters Dutch 's quivering bamboo caught the sunlight in a below the dam. scintillating golden curve . The tip beat the fast tempo I have fished there. The first time , we had only an of the fight against the blue sky as the trout skittered hour. Buddy Fox dropped the -anchor in the eddy of across the churning waters and then around into the rocks. Indian Rapids. Using short bait-casting rods, with fifty The fish turned and came out. The water boiled where yards of twelve pound test bait-casting line, a four-ounce he swirled at the surface and ·submerged again : We both sinker and salmon egg clusters for bait, we cast into the groaned audibly as Dutch stripped line out of the reel to current and let the swift water carry it downstream. ease the pressure. It was just getting dusk. The sun, low in the west, Out there, in that fast water, any trout, and especially silhouetted the other boat on the shimmering silver foil as a Colorado River rainbow, tested completely the fitness the light caught the rippling surface. of a man's fishing gear and his ability to use it. George Talley, riverman, had taken us to this spot, Finally, the trout began to falter in his rushes, and and he was in the other boat . Suddenly he yelled, as only Dutch was beguiling him into the slower, smoother water an angler does when he hooks onto the "bottom of the of the eddy. river," and as we watched, the trout came up, sending a My first glimpse of the rainbow against the sandy handful of diamond chips flying in the western sun. He bottom was a flash of silvery-white as he turned his belly fell back, to leap again, quivering and shaking like a to the sun in a smooth curve, when he rolled on the sur­ gleaming silver shaft in that late light . He curved away face. His light grey-green back was darkly spotted. Even across the back water to leap in the shadow-there, even in two feet of water he showed three fingers width of in the dull light, he gleamed against the b lack canyon wall. "rainbow." George held him with ever-taut line, while the Gradually my friend worked him closer - and sud­ trout cut his chunks out of the Colorado. Slowly, slowly, denly he caught the exhausted fish unawares and beached George forced the fish closer to the side of the boat-then him-eighteen inches of the finest game fish that swims. netted him . As he lifted the trout, I could see it was a This year, I've been up there twice, already. bigger fresh water fish than I had ever seen caught . Since my first visit in 1943, Willow Beach has been It was the last one-that time, for it was already improved. A "reformed" orange grower, of Anaheim, dnrk, and back at the beach I examined my first Colorado California, one Dutch Flother, has deserted the adjoining River trout under a car's headlights . It was brilliantly state and its citrus groves, and he and his partner, Ed colored, deep and wide, and the fins and tail were in per­ Barry, have built cabins and boat docks in the behd of fect condition, showing ncne of the raggedness which the river. Instead of sand and boulders and driftwood, comes of hard living. there are accommodations for fishermen, rock-hounds, The second time, we had just run the Cave Rapids, mountain climbers, naturalists, or whatever you happen and curved into the sandy beach just below that fast water, to be. Dutch and Ed keep a good line of safe boats and tumbling in four foot waves over · a riverbed of jumbled powerful motors. They also operate a water taxi service boulde rs . -taking you to any point on the river , either for a few ''SH IP ROCK" NEAR FREDONIA By GEORGE OLIN This sLriking Landmark un lhe Strip in Norlhern Arizona in early days was a guide post for travelers , in later days has · figured in noted motion picture scenes. Because of the effects of erosion and wind, a perfect ship has been carved out of sandstone and rock, and banked by a formation of clouds is like a ship rolling along on the sea. YOURS SINCERELY

DAYS OF THE STAGECOACH: SMALL WORLD: I noticed in the May copy of ARIZONA HIGHWAYS, your .. . We have received the gift of a year's subscription to "A1uz. articl e "Clouds Are My Companions ," in wh ich you say in the very ONAHIGHWAYS" and we are delighted wit h th e color photographs in it. first two lines of the article that it "Used to be, not so very long ago There are very few firms in the world who can produce illu str ations either , it took two days to go from Tucson to Tombstone by Modoc in color of the same quality as you h ave here in "AmzoNA HIGH· Stage." This is not correct. The stages ran every day from Tucson WAYS." It is magnificent. to Tombstone in the early days of 1882 and the trip was always made E. T. Brown in one day. The distance from Tucson to Tombstone was 75 miles. Umtali , S. Rhodesia The stages wou ld leave Tucson at around six o'clock in the morning ancl nrrive in Tombstone about the same time in the evening. Th e rea son I know this is becaues the stage would leave th e I have recently received my copy of the ARIZONA HIG~IWAYS n rra l on South Convent street at about the above time ancl go to for April whi ch is devoted to th e Utah Centennial and the Mormon the stage offic e on West Congress street wh ere the passengers ancl Pioneers . My sincere congratu lntion s on your excell ent treatment mai l ancl express were loaded ancl then leave for Tomb stone . At that of this material. tim e I liv ed in a house on South Convent street and the corral was I am a missionary of the Churc h of J esus Christ of Latter-Day back of the house wh ere the stage an d the horses were kept when Saints and am working in the French Mission-which includes the stage came in from Tombstone. To me it was a great thrill every France , Belgium and the French speak in g parts of Switzerland. morning to see big Nick Walmont, th e stage driver, when he was on If it is possible , I should lik e permission to have portio ns of your duty to see him cradc th e whip on the six hor ses as ·h e came out of article trans lated to republish in our mi ssion magazine "L'Etoi le," the corra l. · There is nothing so thrilling than to see a six horse stage as we fee l that your presentation of this materin 1 would be of the coach going clown the street on a full ga llop. I trust you will make greatest interest to our readers. this correction in the spirit it is given to correct an error of the I might add that I take a special pleasure in rc J:1:ng your earl y clays of old Tucson. magazine, since Arizona is my home. I cannot tell yo u how I ap­ Harry A. Drachman , preciate receiving this magazine and being able to show my friends in Tu cson since 1869 here in Europe the beauties of my state as they are so excellently 0 AIL thanks to a distinguished Arizona pioneer for telling us portrayed in your magaz in e. about the days of stage coaches. Reed F. Mack Paris, France CASE OF MISTAKEN IDENTITY: For the past severa l years , we have been enjoying the wonderful magazine put out by you each month. Not lon g ago I saw two copies of the magazine ARIZONA However , I bzlieve, in you r Jun e 1947 issue, that there has been HIGHWAYS, · so neatly printed by Prescott Courier , which were somewhat of a mistake made. On th e first page after the midd le of shown me by Miss Delano , a cousin of Mr. Delano , the painter. the mngaz ine at the bottom of the page is shown a picture by Mark One of my friends , a printer , was espec ially surprised by the good and Nora Wuichet ent itl ed "Go ldroad , Arizona, Mohave County." paper , and asked me to inquire from you the addr ess of the paper I am wondering if, perhaps , this is not the wro ng caption. It seems factory . . Thnnk you in advance for ·your consideration of thi s request. to me that I can pick out a good many objects in the picture th at remind me of Oatman , Arizona , Mohave County, rather th an Golcl­ Ernest A. Koellik e,· roacl, Arizona. If I am right , Goldro ad is just up , over and around Postfach , the hill shown in this particular picture. I can pick out the litt le Zurich, Switzerland schoolhouse up in the left hand corner, and if I am not badly mis ­ talcen , I can identify the genern l office of the Torn Reed Gold Mine s I h ave received the copies of the ARIZONA HIGHWAYSsent Company near the bottom of th e picture behind the two green and to me. Decem ber, January and February issues arrived in perfect rncl buildings. I would be interested in knowing whether my diag­ cond ition . I am writ in g to let you know how much I en joy ed read ­ nosis is correct. ing them. It is rea lly marvelous what ha s and will be done with In the meantim e, congratulations on the wonderfu l magazine the Arizona desert. I am Australian born but America always in ter­ that so beautifu lly displays you r State. ested me. More so since the war. The friends I have lived with for R. M. McCallum years in Queensland , Mr. and Mrs . vV. Sale , and myself made qui te Vice President a lot of friends among the American boys and we are proud of th eir Tom Reed Gold Min es Co. friendship , which still remains , although they have gone back home . Pasadena , Cali f. W. J. Hutchinson 0 l!ighl y ou are! Th e editor of the depa rlrnenl of uller co11 - Andrew A venu e Ju sio11 u •as in rare form and Labelled th e picture wrong. Brisbane , Australia

DESERT CLOUDS upon the hill s that nod in sleep. P erhaps , your vast and color lin ed Prancing horses and full-rigged ships , Old pa lette holds a specia l kind fv'.I ist-gray mountains with frosty tips , T hen all at once th e soft twilight Of boon , for hopeful ma n to find. Zeppelins and wind-tossed trees , is pus hed aside by the stro n ger night. HAZEL DEL ADAMS 'Whitecap s dancing on clear , blue seas. Cotton candy and parac hut es, The stars stand guard , the hills sleep on FEATHERED PRAYER STICKS Jo lly giants in snowy suits , till wakened by the spicy dawn. Cherub faces and woolly sh eep , ANYA P. SALA The "Pahos" I have treasured in my ches t Ivory castles with towers steep. These many years since they were gravely "THE PAINTED DESERT" sent, Plrnntom artist , in Puckish glee, Oh! ever barren desert land , So all that dwell within my house are blessed Paint s cloud pictures for you and me. What artist wi th a skillful hand , And we ll in being. This is wh at was meant. RUBY C. HUTCHESON. P ut all the colors in your sand? An Indian legend says th at this is so, And thu s, my Indian friend believingly , THE SILENT HILLS Who drew , with in this lonely place, Had made the feat hered prayer sticks, and lo, At dusk each forest -crested hill Intri cate lines upon your face? Has sent his wishes wi th th em gracio u sly. is strang ely silent , strangely sti ll . Denied to you earth's leafy lace? Within my carved and olden ch est they li e, Th e winds tormenting the trees by clay Who ch eated you of bloom and bee? Continuin g their blessings in my hom e, no long er blow their wilfu l way , And left you longing for a tree, And whil e the years may pass, I sti ll may In viting us to claim you free. sigh, but slowly cease, unti l at last Remembering this gif t and write this poem. the wea ry hill s can be at rest; According to some unknown plan , He lived and died and sti ll his gift and prayei· You were not meant to nourish man, Are more than feat here d sticks I am aware. and lengthening shadow s slowly creep But for his eager eyes to scan, STUART MARSH

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