Chapter 20: Nails and Manicuring TOPICS

Home , Cuticle (hair), Eponychium, Hyponychium, Medulla (hair)

MILADY’S PROFESSIONAL BARBERING COURSE MANAGEMENT GUIDE LESSON PLAN 20.0

1. Introduction 2. The Nail A. Structure B. Nail Growth 3. Nail Disorders and Diseases A. Introduction B. Disorders and Diseases 4. Introduction to Manicuring A. Equipment B. Implements C. Sanitation and Disinfection D. Materials E. Nail Cosmetics F. Polish Applications 5. Hand and Arm Massage A. Hand Massage B. Arm Massage 6. Basic Table Setup A. Sanitation and Regulations B. Setup C. Chair-side Manicure 7. Client Consultation A. Overview B. Nail Shapes C. Manicure Pre-service 8. Manicure Procedures A. Men’s Manicure B. Women’s Plain Manicure C. Post-service

NOTES TO THE INSTRUCTOR In some states, the study of nails and manicuring is a subject within the barbering curriculum and should be taught in order to comply with state board rules and regulations. In those states where the subject is not a mandatory course of study, the inclusion of this chapter is best left to the discretion of the school and instructor. It is recommended that students who aspire to barbershop ownership spend some time studying the topic so they are better prepared to oversee future employees should a manicurist ever be hired for the barbershop.

STUDENT PREPARATION: Read Chapter 20: Nails and Manicuring STUDENT MATERIALS

• Milady’s Standard Professional Barbering textbook • Milady’s Professional Barbering Student Workbook

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© 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use.

997147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd7147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd 485485 55/31/10/31/10 112:58:112:58:11 PMPM • Milady’s Professional Barbering Student CD-ROM • Writing materials

LEARNING OBJECTIVES Upon completion of this lesson, students should be able to: 1. Identify the composition of the nail. 2. Identify and describe nail irregularities and diseases. 3. Demonstrate the proper use of manicuring implements, equipment, and products. 4. Recognize the fi ve general shapes of nails. 5. Demonstrate manicure and hand massage procedures.

ALLOTTED TIME: Two to four hours, depending on depth of study and range of activities. TEACHING AIDS

• Milady’s Standard Professional Barbering textbook • Milady’s Professional Barbering Instructor Slides • Whiteboard or chalkboard; dry-erase markers or chalk • CD/DVD player or overhead projector • Manicuring equipment, tools, implements, and products

EDUCATOR REFERENCES

• Milady’s Standard Professional Barbering textbook • Milady’s Professional Barbering Course Management Guide

LESSON OUTLINE 1. Introduction A. Nail care and beautifi cation evidenced in Egyptian and Chinese records. B. Barbershops of the fi rst half of the twentieth century routinely provided manicures as part of the traditional shave, haircut, and shoeshine service. C. Many of today’s barbershops offer manicure services for clients.

2. The Nail: see textbook Figure 20-1 and Supplement 20.0. A. Structure 1. Nail unit: horny, translucent plate of hard keratin that protect the tips of the fi ngers and toes. a. Part of the integumentary system; considered appendages of the skin. b. Finger and toe nail anatomy the same. 2. Technical term: onyx (AHN-iks). 3. Condition refl ects general body health; healthy nail: translucent pinkish color and smooth. 4. No nerves or blood vessels within horny nail plate. 5. Consists of nail bed, matrix, nail plate or body, cuticle, eponychium, hyponychium, specialized ligaments, and nail folds. 6. Nail bed: lies under nail plate; the skin where nail plate rests; nourished by blood vessels and nerves. 7. Matrix: imbedded under the skin; where nail is formed. a. Matrix cells produce nail plate, which originates at the nail base. b. Growth may be retarded by poor health, disorder, disease, or injury. c. Lunula: visible portion of the matrix.

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97147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd 486 8/3/10 12:53:35 PM 8. Nail plate: formerly called nail body; visible portion of nail; extends to free edge. 9. Cuticle: crescent of dead tissue attached to nail plate around nail base. 10. Eponychium: living skin at the base of the nail plate. 11. Hyponychium: layer of skin that lies between the fi ngertip and free edge of the nail plate. 12. Specialized ligaments: fi brous tissue bands that attach the nail bed and matrix to underlying bone. 13. Nail folds: folds of normal skin surrounding the nail plate; form nail grooves on sides of nail and permit nail movement as it grows. B. Nail Growth 1. Infl uenced by nutrition, health, and disease. 1 2. Average rate of growth for normal adult is about ⁄10" per month. 3. Grow faster in summer than winter; nail of middle fi nger grows fastest and thumbnail most slowly. 4. Nail malformation a. Nail separation from nail bed through injury; becomes distorted or discolored; nail-bed injury causes badly formed new nail. b. Nails are replaced only if the matrix remains in good condition. c. Nail replacement takes four to six months.

3. Nail Disorders and Diseases: see textbook Figures 20-2 to 20-22. A. Introduction 1. Important to recognize nail-disorder symptoms to decide whether or not to perform service. 2. May be necessary to recommend medical treatment. 3. May be improved cosmetically. 4. Rule: Do not perform service on condition with infected, infl amed, broken, or swollen skin. B. Disorders and Diseases 1. Onychosis: technical term applied to any deformity or disease of the nail. 2. Bruised nails: blood clot forms under the nail plate; caused by injury to nail bed. 3. Discolored nails: can be caused by poor blood circulation, heart condition, or topical or oral medications; may also indicate a systemic disorder; tips or colored polish can hide condition. 4. Eggshell nails: thin, white, curved at free edge; caused by improper diet, internal disease, medication, or nerve disorders; fragile and break easily. 5. Ridges: long ridges running lengthwise down the nail; usually occur with age. 6. Beau’s lines: ridges running across nail; may be caused by psoriasis, poor circulation, frostbite, high fever, pregnancy, measles in childhood, zinc defi ciency in the body; buff to remove or shorten ridges; use ridge fi ller. 7. Hangnails: also called agnails; common condition; cuticle around nail splits; caused by dry or closely cut cuticles; soften with oil; improper service may cause infection. 8. Leukonychia: appearance of white spots on nails; result of air bubbles, bruise, or other injury; nail will eventually grow out. 9. Melanonychia: darkening of nail due to localized pigment cells in matrix; hide with nail polish or artifi cial nails. 10. Onychocryptosis: ingrown nails; nail grows into sides of tissue around the nail; can be caused by improper fi ling or poor-fi tting shoes; trim corner of nail in a curved shape to relieve pressure; should be treated by a physician. 11. Onychophagy: medical term for nails that have been bitten enough to become deformed; can be improved with professional manicuring techniques. 12. Onychorrhexis: split or brittle nails with lengthwise ridges; caused by injury, excessive use of cuticle solvents, polish removers, or rough fi ling; do not service if nail is split below free edge. 13. Nail pterygium: forward growth of cuticle on nail; cuticle sticks to nail; treat with a hot oil manicure and push back cuticle.

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997147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd7147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd 487487 55/31/10/31/10 112:58:112:58:11 PMPM 14. Plicatured nail: folded nail caused by injury to the matrix. 15. Pincer or trumpet nail: nail plates with deep or sharp curvature at free edge; caused by curvature of the matrix. 16. Nail infections: caused by bacterial such as Pseudomonas aeruginosa. a. Onychia: infl ammation of the matrix with pus, redness, swelling, and shedding of the nail; caused by improperly sanitized implements and bacterial infection. b. Onychomadesis: separation or falling off of nail from nail bed; caused by localized infection or minor injury to matrix. c. Onycholysis: nail loosens from nail bed, beginning at free edge and continuing to lunula, but does not come off; caused by an internal disorder, trauma, infection, or certain drugs. d. Nail psoriasis: causes tiny pits or severe roughness on the surface of the nail plate. e. Paronychia: bacterial infl ammation of tissue around nail; symptoms: redness, swelling, tissue tenderness; can occur at the base of the nail, around the entire nail plate, or on the fi ngertip. f. Pyrogenic granuloma: severe infl ammation of nail; lump of red tissue grows up from the nail bed to the nail plate. g. Onychomycosis: fungal infection; whitish patches on nail that can be scraped off or long yellowish streaks within nail plate.

4. Introduction to Manicuring A. Equipment 1. Manicure: derived from Latin manus (hand) and cura (care); means care of the hands and nails. 2. Manicure table with adjustable lamp: use 40- to 60-watt bulb. 3. Client’s chair and nail technician’s chair or stool. 4. Finger bowl: bowl that is shaped specifi cally for soaking the fi ngers. 5. Disinfectant container: holds disinfectant solution to immerse implements for sanitizing. 6. Client’s cushion: usually 8" to 12" long; sits on manicure table. 7. Gauze and cotton container: holds clean absorbent cotton or gauze squares. 8. Supply tray for polishers, polish removers, and creams. 9. Electric nail dryer: optional item used to shorten drying time. B. Implements: Tools that must be disinfected, sanitized, or discarded after each use. 1. Wooden pusher (Orangewood stick): used to loosen cuticle and clean under free edge. 2. Metal pusher: used to gently push back excess cuticle growth. 3. Abrasive fi le: used to shape free edge of hard or sculptured nails; different grits; disinfect or dispose after use; replaces emery boards in salons: available for client home use. 4. Cuticle nipper: used for trimming excess cuticle. 5. Tweezers: may be needed to lift small bits of cuticle from the nail. 6. Nail brush: used to clean fi ngernails and remove bits of cuticle. 7. Nail buffer: two- or three-sided disposable models; used to add shine and smooth nail 8. Fingernail clippers: used to shorten nails; cuts fi ling time. C. Cleaning (Sanitation) and Disinfection 1. Recommendation: have two complete sets of metal implements. 2. Sanitizing steps a. Wash all implements thoroughly with soap and warm water and rinse off all traces of soap with plain water. Dry thoroughly with a sanitized towel. b. Metal implements should be immersed in a wet sanitizer with cotton at the bottom and fi lled with an approved disinfectant. The required sanitation time is 10 to 20 minutes. Dry the implements with a sanitized towel when they are removed from the wet sanitizer. 3. Follow state regulations for storage of sanitized manicuring implements. They must be stored in sealed containers, sealed plastic bags, or in a cabinet sanitizer until they are needed.

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997147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd7147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd 488488 55/31/10/31/10 112:58:112:58:11 PMPM D. Materials: Supplies used during a manicure that need to be replaced for each client. 1. Disposable towels or terry cloth towels: used to cover cushion, dry hands, and wipe spills. 2. Cotton or cotton balls: used to remove polish, wrap wooden pusher and apply nail cosmetics. 3. Plastic spatula: used to remove nail cosmetics from containers. 4. Plastic bags: taped or clipped to side of manicuring table to hold materials used during a service. 5. Approved solution for jar sanitizer: consult state health department for approved disinfectants. 6. Antiseptics: used to treat minor injuries. E. Nail Cosmetics 1. Maintain a MSDS notebook 2. Anti-bacterial soap: used in fi nger bowl to sanitize client’s hands. 3. Polish remover: used to dissolve and remove nail polish. 4. Cuticle cream: used to lubricate and soften dry cuticles and brittle nails. 5. Cuticle oil: keeps cuticle soft and helps prevent hangnails or rough cuticles. 6. Cuticle solvent or cuticle remover: makes cuticles easier to remove and minimizes clipping. 7. Nail bleach: removes yellow stains; contains hydrogen peroxide. 8. Nail whitener: applied under the free edge of a nail to make the nail appear white. 9. Dry nail polish: pumice powder used with chamois buffer; adds shine to the nail. 10. Nail strengthener or hardener: applied to nail before base coat; prevents splitting and peeling; available as protein hardener, nylon fi ber, and formaldehyde strengthener. 11. Base coat: colorless polish applied to nail before colored polish; prevents nail stains. 12. Colored polish, liquid enamel, or lacquer: used to add color and gloss to nail; usually two coats. 13. Top coat or sealer: colorless polish applied over colored polish; prevents chipping and adds shine. 14. Liquid nail dry: used to prevent smudging of polish; promotes rapid drying. 15. Hand cream or lotion: used during hand massage as fi nishing touch to a manicure. 16. Nail conditioner: contains moisturizers; should be applied at night, before bedtime. F. Polish Applications 1. Full coverage: entire nail plate is polished 2. Free edge: free edge of the nail is unpolished; helps prevent the polish from chipping. 1 3. Hairline tip: nail plate is polished and ⁄16" is removed from free edge; prevents chipping. 1 4. Slim-line or free walls: leaves ⁄16" margin on each side of nail plate; makes wide nail appear narrower. 5. Half-moon or lunula: the lunula at the base of the nail is left unpolished. 6. Polish is usually applied in four or fi ve coats. a. Base coat b. Two coats of color c. One or two applications of topcoat 7. Application procedure a. Roll polish bottle in the palms to mix; do not shake. b. Remove the brush from the bottle and wipe one side on bottleneck so a bead of polish remains on the end of the brush. 1 c. Start in center of the nail; position brush ⁄16" away from cuticle and brush toward free edge. d. Apply polish to left side and right side of nail; there should be enough polish on brush to complete three strokes without having to dip it back into the bottle. e. Apply two coats of colored polish with the same technique used for the base coat. f. Remove polish on cuticle with a cotton-tipped wooden pusher saturated in polish remover. g. Apply one or two coats of topcoat to prevent chipping and give nails a glossy look. h. Use of instant nail dry spray is optional.

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997147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd7147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd 489489 55/31/10/31/10 112:58:112:58:11 PMPM 5. Hand and Arm Massage (See textbook Procedure 20-1) A. Hand Massage 1. Relaxation movement: also known as joint movement. Apply hand lotion or cream. Place the client’s elbow on a cushion. With one hand, brace the client’s arm. With the other hand, hold the client’s wrist and bend it back and forth slowly fi ve to ten times or until you feel the client has relaxed. 2. Joint movement on fi ngers: lower the client’s arm, bracing his right hand so you can start the massage on his little fi nger. Hold the fi nger at the base of the nail and gently rotate to form circles. Work toward the thumb, three to fi ve times on each fi nger. 3. Circular movement in palm: use the effl eurage manipulation. Place the client’s elbow on the cushion and, with your thumbs in the client’s palm, rotate in a circular movement in opposite directions. 4. Circular movement on wrist: hold the client’s hand between your hands, placing your thumbs on top and your fi ngers below the client’s hand. Move the thumbs in a circular motion in opposite directions, from the client’s wrist to his knuckles. Move up and down three to fi ve times. At the last rotation, wring the client’s wrist by bracing your hands around the wrist and gently twisting in opposite directions. 5. Circular movement on back of the hand and fi ngers: rotate down the back of the client’s hand using the thumbs. Rotate down the little fi nger and the client’s thumb, and gently squeeze off at the tips of the client’s fi ngers. Go back and rotate down the ring fi nger and index fi nger, gently squeezing off. Now do the middle fi nger and squeeze off at the tip. This tapering to the fi ngertips helps blood fl ow. B. Arm Massage 1. Warm cream or lotion in your hands, apply it to the client’s arm, and work it in. Work from the client’s wrist toward the elbow, except on the last movement, when work should be from the elbow to the wrist. Finally, squeeze off at the fi ngertips, as at the end of a hand massage. Apply more cream if necessary. 2. Effl eurage on arms: put the client’s arm on the table, bracing the arm with your hands. Hold the client’s hand palm up in your hand. Your fi ngers should be under the client’s hand, your thumbs side by side in the client’s palm. Rotate your thumbs in opposite directions, starting at the client’s wrist and working toward the elbow. When you reach the elbow, slide your hand down the client’s arm to the wrist and rotate back up to the elbow three to fi ve times. Turn the arm over and repeat three to fi ve times on the top side of arm. 3. Friction massage movement (wringing movement): involves deep rubbing to the muscles. Bend the client’s elbow so the arm is horizontal in front of you with the back of the hand facing up. Place your hands around the arm with your fi ngers facing in the same direction as the arm and gently twist in opposite directions, as you would wring out a washcloth, from wrist to elbow. Repeat up and down the forearm three to fi ve times. 4. Kneading movement on the arm: place your thumbs on the top side of the client’s arm so they are horizontal. Move them in opposite directions from wrist to elbow and back down to wrist. This squeezing motion moves the fl esh over the bone and stimulates the arm tissue. Do this three to fi ve times. 5. Rotation of the elbow: friction massage movement. Brace the client’s arm with your left hand and apply cream to the elbow. Cup the elbow with your right hand and rotate your hand over the client’s elbow. Repeat three to fi ve times. To fi nish the elbow massage, move your left arm to the top of the client’s forearm. Gently slide both hands down the forearm from the elbow to the fi ngertips as if climbing down a rope. Repeat three to fi ve times. Activity 1: Have students partner to practice and perform hand and arm massage techniques on each other.

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997147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd7147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd 490490 55/31/10/31/10 112:58:112:58:11 PMPM 6. Basic Table Setup: see textbook Procedure 20-2. A. Sanitation and Regulations 1. All equipment and implements must be sanitized and disinfected. 2. Regulations regarding table setup vary from state to state. 3. Setup requires instructor’s guidance. B. Setup 1. Sanitize manicure table; assemble necessary implements, materials, and cosmetics. 2. Wrap cushion in a clean, sanitized towel and position in middle of table toward client. 3. Sanitize metal implements in an approved disinfectant. 4. Position all cosmetics (except polish), emery boards, and buffer, on right side of table. 5. Place fi nger bowl and brush in middle or on left toward client. 6. Tape or clip plastic bag to right side of table for depositing used materials. 7. Place polishes to the left. C. Chair-side Manicure 1. Also known as booth manicure. 2. Performed at barber’s workstation. 3. Requires manicurist to balance supply tray on lap or have a small table at hand. 4. Styling chair should have recessed hole at end of armrest to hold fi nger bowl. 5. Manicurist moves around client, depending on hand being manicured. 6. Manicurist must be considerate of barber’s position during haircutting and styling process. 7. Anticipate changes in chair and client position to prevent discomfort or interference.

7. Client Consultation: see textbook Figure 20-35 and Supplement 20.1. A. Overview 1. Use knowledge of skin, nails, and nail services to select the most appropriate service. 2. Clients with nail or skin disorders preventing service should be referred to a physician. 3. Determine desired shape and polish color. B. Nail Shapes 1. Squoval: combination of square and oval shape; straight across tip with rounded ends. 2. Square or rectangular: straight across with no rounding at the edges. 3. Round: slightly tapered; extends just past fi ngertip. 4. Oval: square nail with rounded corners. 5. Pointed: suited to thin hands and narrow nail beds; tapered and longer than usual. 6. Most men prefer square, round, or squoval nail shapes. 7. Generally, pointed and oval ends reserved for use on female nails. C. Manicure Pre-service 1. Apply gloves. Set up the manicuring table with implements, products, and materials. 2. Disinfect table, implements, and tools. Remove gloves. 3. Greet the client. 4. Wash your hands. Have the client wash his hands or apply a hand sanitizer. Thoroughly dry hands and nails with a sanitized towel. Apply new gloves if required. 5. Perform a client consultation. Check for nail disorders and decide if it is safe and appropriate to perform the manicure. If the client should not receive the service, explain the reasons and suggest that he seek a medical consultation. If it is safe to proceed, discuss the service options with the client. 6. Begin working with the left hand so you can work from right to left.

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997147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd7147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd 491491 55/31/10/31/10 112:58:112:58:11 PMPM 8. Manicure Procedures: see textbook Procedures 20-3 and 20-4. Note: Review materials, pre-service, and post-service steps with students. A. Men’s Manicure 1. Remove polish if applicable: begin with little fi nger of left hand; repeat on right hand. 2. Shape the nails: shorten with fi ngernail clipper if necessary; fi le from corners to center in one direction; do not saw back and forth. 3. Soften the cuticles: after fi ling the nails of the left hand, soak them in a soap bath while fi ling the second hand. 4. Clean the nails with nailbrush: remove left hand from the soap bath while placing the right hand into the bath; brush fi ngers with downward strokes, starting at the fi rst knuckle and brushing in one direction toward the free edge. 5. Dry the hand: use end of clean towel; dry between fi ngers; gently push back the cuticle. 6. Apply cuticle remover with cotton-tipped wooden pusher, putting one hand in bath while working on the other. 7. Loosen the cuticles: use spoon end of metal pusher or wooden pusher; gently push back and lift cuticle off the nail. 8. Nip cuticles depending on state board regulations and client preference. If allowed, trim only loose or hanging skin and brush clean; do not cut close too to the base of the cuticle. 9. Clean under the free edge with a cotton-tipped orangewood stick. 10. Apply buffi ng powder or cream and buff. 11. Apply cuticle oil. 12. Bevel nails if necessary. 13. Apply hand lotion and massage the hands and wrists; wipe excess lotion off nails. 14. Polish the nails with a clear matte polish if desired or buff gently. 15. Complete manicure post-service procedure. B. Women’s Plain Manicure 1. Remove polish: begin with the little fi nger. Saturate cotton with polish remover. If the client is wearing artifi cial nails, use non-acetone remover to avoid damaging them. Hold saturated cotton on the nail for approximately 10 seconds. Wipe the old polish off the nail with a stroking motion toward the free edge. Repeat procedure on each fi nger. 2. Shape the nails: using an emery board or nail fi le, fi le from the right side to the center of the free edge and from the left side to the center of the free edge. Do not fi le into the corners of the nails. File each hand from the little fi nger to the thumb. 3. Soften the cuticles: after fi ling the fi rst hand, put it in a soap bath while fi ling the second hand. 4. Clean the nails: remove fi rst hand from the soap bath and brush the fi ngers with a nail brush. Use downward strokes, starting at the fi rst knuckle and brushing toward the free edge. Dry the hand with a fresh towel; make sure to dry between the fi ngers. 5. Apply cuticle remover using a cotton-tipped orangewood stick; put second hand into bath to soak. 6. Loosen the cuticles: use an orangewood stick or the spoon end of a steel pusher to push back gently and lift the cuticle off of the nails; use circular movement to help lift cuticles that cling to the nail plate. 7. Carefully nip the cuticles if allowed by your state board to remove any ragged, excess cuticle or hangnails. Try to remove the cuticle in one piece. Brush gently to clean. 8. Clean under the free edge using a cotton-tipped orangewood stick: remove the second hand from the soap bath. Hold the fi rst hand over the soap bath and brush a last time to remove any bits of cuticle and traces of solvent. Then let the client’s fi rst hand rest on the sanitized towel. 9. Repeat Steps 4 through 8 on the second hand. 10. Bleaching the nails is an option if client’s nails are yellowed. Use a prepared nail bleach or 20-volume (6 percent) hydrogen peroxide. Apply the bleaching agent to the yellowed nail 492

997147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd7147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd 492492 55/31/10/31/10 112:58:112:58:11 PMPM with a cotton-tipped wooden pusher stick. Be careful not to brush bleach on the client’s skin or cuticle as it will cause irritation. 11. Buffi ng with a disposable chamois or other buffer is optional. To buff nails, apply dry polish to the nail with a wooden pusher. Buff on a diagonal, from the base of the nail to its free edge. Buff in one direction, from left to right with a downward stroke and then from right to left with a downward stroke, forming an X pattern. While buffi ng, lift the back of the buffer off the nail to prevent friction, which will cause a burning sensation. After buffi ng, the client’s hands should be washed to remove any traces of abrasive or dry polish. The buffer also can be used to smooth out wavy ridges or corrugated nails. 12. Using a cotton-tipped wooden pusher, apply cuticle oil to each nail. Start with the little fi nger of the left hand and rub oil into each cuticle in a circular motion. Repeat on the right hand. 13. Bevel nails option: To bevel the underside of the free edge, hold an emery board at a 45-degree angle and fi le with an upward stroke. This removes any rough edges or cuticle particles. 14. Apply hand lotion and massage hands and arms. A hand massage is a pleasant touch before applying polish. Apply lotion or cream to the hand and arm with a sanitary spatula. 15. Remove traces of oil so that the polish will adhere to the nail. Use a small piece of cotton saturated with alcohol or polish remover. 16. Apply base coat. Apply polish and remove excess. Apply top coat. C. Post-service 1. Schedule another appointment with client to maintain manicure or perform another service; complete client’s record card. 2. Clean up work area. Disinfect table, tools, and implements; restore the basic table setup. 3. Place used materials in plastic bag; discard into a closed trashcan. 4. Wash your hands. Activity 2: Have students partner and practice the sex-appropriate manicure procedures.

SUMMARY/REVIEW: What did we learn and do today?

1. Identifi ed and discussed the composition of the nail. 2. Identifi ed and described nail irregularities and diseases. 3. Demonstrated the proper use of manicuring implements, equipment, and products (instructor). 4. Practiced the proper use of manicuring implements, equipment, and products (students). 5. Discussed the fi ve general shapes of nails: squoval, square, round, oval, and pointed. 6. Demonstrated hand and arm massage movements (instructor). 7. Practiced hand and arm massage movements (students). 8. Demonstrated basic setup procedures (instructor). 9. Practiced basic setup procedures (students). 10. Demonstrated a manicure procedure (instructor). 11. Practiced a manicure procedure (students),

THEORY REVIEW QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS

1. Explain the location of the following: nail bed, matrix, and nail plate. Answer: Nail bed: lies under the nail plate and is the portion of the skin upon which the nail plate rests. Matrix: imbedded under the skin; where the nail is formed; visible portion is the lunula. Nail plate: most visible and functional portion of the nail that rests upon and is attached to the nail bed; nail plate extends to the free edge. 2. What does the cuticle do? Answer: It forms a seal between the eponychium and the nail plate.

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997147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd7147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd 493493 55/31/10/31/10 112:58:122:58:12 PMPM 3. What structures attach the nail bed and the matrix to the underlying bone? Answer: Specialized ligaments 4. What is the average growth of the nail? 1 Answer: About ⁄10" per month. 5. List fi ve nail disorders that may be serviced by a nail technician. Answer: Any fi ve of the following: bruised nails, discolored nails, eggshell nails, furrows, hangnails, leukonychia, melanonychia, onychophagy, onychorrhexis, onychocryptosis, and onychomadesis (partial treatment depending on severity). 6. List fi ve nail disorders that should not be serviced by a nail technician. Answer: Severe onychocryptosis, fungal infections or bacterial, onychomycosis, onychomadesis, nail pterygium, or onychia 7. List the equipment, implements, materials, and nail cosmetics needed to perform a manicure. Answer: Manicure table with adjustable lamp, client’s chair and nail technician’s chair or stool, fi nger bowl, wet sanitizer, client’s cushion, sanitized cotton container, supply tray, electric nail dryer (optional), wooden pusher, cuticle pusher, metal nail fi le, emery board, cuticle nipper, tweezers, nail brush, nail buffer, fi ngernail clippers, towels, bags, spatula, cotton, disinfectant, styptic powder, anti-bacterial soap, cuticle oil or cream, polish remover, cuticle remover, nail bleach, whitener, dry nail polish, top coat, base coat, nail strengthener or hardener, colored polishes, nail dry, nail conditioner, and hand cream. 8. List the fi ve basic nail shapes. Answer: Squoval, square, round, oval, and pointed 9. Identify the nail shapes most preferred by men. Answer: Short squoval, square, or round 10. Explain the manner in which a chair-side manicure is performed. Answer: The manicure is performed at the barber’s workstation, and the manicurist must balance a supply tray or have a small table nearby to work from. The manicurist must move around the client for the client’s comfort and be considerate of the barber’s position at all times. 11. Name fi ve hand massage techniques and four arm massage techniques. Answer: Hand: relaxation; fi nger, joint movement; palm, circular movement; wrist, circular movement; and circular movement on back of the hand and fi ngers. Arm: effl eurage, wringing, kneading, and friction. 12. Briefl y list the steps of a basic manicure procedure. Answer: Remove polish; shape nails; soften cuticles; clean nails; apply cuticle remover; loosen cuticles; trim cuticles if allowed by state board; clean under free edge; bleach, buff, or bevel nails (optional); apply hand cream/massage; remove oil/cream residue; apply base coat, colored polish, and top coat as requested.

ASSIGNMENTS

1. Read Chapter 21: State Board Preparation and Licensing Laws. 2. Begin Workbook Chapter 21: State Board Preparation and Licensing Laws; due date: ______.

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997147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd7147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd 494494 55/31/10/31/10 112:58:122:58:12 PMPM Textbook Chapter Review Questions and Answers Chapter 20: Nails and Manicuring

1. Explain the location of the following: nail bed, matrix, nail plate, free edge, and cuticle. The nail bed is living skin that supports the nail plate as it grows toward the free edge. It is attached to the nail plate. The matrix is imbedded under the skin and is where the nail is formed. The nail plate is the most visible and functional portion of the nail that slowly slides upon the nail bed as it grows. It extends to the free edge. The free edge is the end portion of the nail that reaches over the fi ngertips. The cuticle is the crescent of dead, colorless tissue attached to the nail plate around the base of the nail. 2. What is the average growth rate of a nail?

1 About ∕10" per month 3. What are fi ve nail disorders that may be serviced by a manicurist? Any of the following: bruised nails, discolored nails, eggshell nails, furrows, hangnails, leukonychia, melanonychia, onychophagy, onychorrhexis, onychocryptosis, and onychomadesis (partial treatment depending on severity). 4. List fi ve nail disorders that should not be serviced by a manicurist. Any of the following: evere onychocryptosis, onychomycosis, severe onychomadesis, infected nails, extreme pincer or trumpet nails, nail pterygium. 5. List the basic materials needed to perform a men’s manicure. Manicure table with adjustable lamp, client’s chair and nail technician’s chair or stool, fi nger bowl, wet sanitizer, client’s cushion, sanitized cotton container, supply tray, electric nail dryer (optional), wooden pusher, cuticle pusher, metal nail fi le, emery board, cuticle nipper, tweezers, nail brush, nail buffer, fi ngernail clippers, towels, bags, spatula, cotton, disinfectant, styptic powder, antibacterial soap, cuticle oil or cream, polish remover, cuticle remover, nail bleach, whitener, dry nail polish, top coat, base coat, nail strengthener or hardener, colored polishes, nail dry, nail conditioner, and hand cream 6. What are the fi ve basic nail shapes? Squoval, square, round, oval, and pointed 7. Identify nail shapes that look appropriate on a man’s hand. Squoval, square, and round 8. Name fi ve hand massage techniques and four arm massage techniques. Hand techniques include relaxation, fi nger joint movement, palm circular movement, wrist circular movement, and circular movement on the back of the hand and fi ngers. Arm techniques include effl eurage, wringing, kneading, and friction. 9. Briefl y list the steps of a basic manicure procedure. Remove polish; shape nails; soften cuticles: clean nails; apply cuticle remover; loosen cuticles; trim cuticles if allowed by state board; clean under free edge; bleach, buff, or bevel nails (optional); apply hand cream and massage; remove oil or cream residue; apply base coat, colored polish, and top coat. 10. Explain the manner in which a chair-side manicure is performed. The manicure is performed at the barber’s workstation, and the manicurist must balance a supply tray or have a small table nearby to work from. The manicurist must move around the client for the client’s comfort and be considerate of the barber’s position at all times.

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997147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd7147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd 495495 55/31/10/31/10 112:58:122:58:12 PMPM Test—Chapter 20 NAILS AND MANICURING Read each statement carefully. Circle the letter that correctly completes each of the following statements. 1. The main function of the nails is: a) cosmetic c) protection b) beautifi cation d) absorption 2. The nail is composed of a translucent plate of: a) soft keratin c) hard skin b) hard keratin d) cartilage 3. The nail unit includes all of the following parts except the: a) nail medulla c) matrix b) nail bed d) nail plate 4. The living skin that supports the nail plate as it grows is called the: a) nail folds c) nail root b) nail bed d) matrix 5. The nail bed is attached to the nail plate by the: a) nail folds c) bed epithelium b) matrix d) lunula 6. The nail is formed in the: a) nail plate c) lunula b) nail bed d) matrix 7. The most visible and functional portion of the nail is called the: a) nail bed c) nail root b) nail plate d) matrix 8. The nail plate extends to the: a) bed c) free edge b) lunula d) matrix 9. A crescent of dead, colorless tissue attached to the nail plate at the base of the nail is the: a) cuticle c) cortex b) crust d) callus 10. The living skin at the base at the nail plate covering the matrix area is the: a) eponychium c) leukonychia b) melanonychia d) hyponychium 11. The thickened skin layer between the fi ngertip and free edge of the nail is the: a) eponychium c) leukonychia b) melanonychia d) hyponychium

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997147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd7147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd 496496 55/31/10/31/10 112:58:122:58:12 PMPM 12. The nail folds form the: a) nail plate c) nail grooves b) nail bed d) neither a, b, or c 13. The average nail growth per month is:

1 1 a) ⁄10" inch c) ⁄2" inch

1 b) ⁄4" inch d) 1 inch 14. The replacement of an injured nail is dependent upon the health and condition of the: a) nail bed c) nail root b) nail plate d) matrix 15. The technical term applied to any deformity or disease of the nail is: a) melanonychia c) eponychium b) onychosis d) leukonychia 16. When a blood clot forms under the nail plate, the result is a/an: a) furrowed nail c) bruised nail b) eggshell nail d) hangnail 17. Nails that are thin, white, and curved at the free edge are called: a) furrowed nails c) bruised nails b) eggshell nails d) hangnails 18. Depressions that run either lengthwise down the nail are called: a) corrugations c) ridges b) furrows d) Beau’s lines 19. A condition in which white spots appear on the nail due to air bubbles or bruising is: a) melanonychia spots c) eponychium spots b) onychosis spots d) leukonychia spots 20. A darkening of the nail as a result of localized pigment within the matrix is called: a) melanonychia c) eponychium b) onychosis d) leukonychia 21. Also known as folded nail, this condition can lead to ingrown nails: a) onychauxis c) plicatured nail b) onychosis d) onychocryptosis 22. Nail plate conditions with a deep or sharp curvature at the free edge caused by the curvature of the matrix are called: a) pincer or trumpet nails c) plicatured nails b) onychosis d) nail pterygium 23. The technical term for ingrown nails is: a) onychauxis c) onychatrophia b) onychosis d) onychocryptosis

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997147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd7147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd 497497 55/31/10/31/10 112:58:122:58:12 PMPM 24. The technical term for deformed, bitten nails is: a) onychophagy c) onychorrhexis b) pterygium d) onychia 25. Onychorrhexis is the technical term for: a) ingrown nails c) brittle or split nails b) enlarged nail curvature d) pus formation at the matrix 26. Damage to the eponychium or hyponychium and stretching of the skin by the nail plate can cause a condition called: a) onychophagy c) onychorrhexis b) nail pterygium d) onychia 27. An infl ammation of the matrix with the formation of pus that can lead to nail shedding is: a) onychophagy c) onychorrhexis b) pterygium d) onychia 28. Tiny pits or severe roughness of the nail plate may indicate a condition called: a) nail psoriasis c) onychorrhexis b) pterygium d) paronychia 29. A bacterial infl ammation of the tissue around the nail causing redness, swelling, and tenderness of the tissue is: a) onychoptosis c) onychorrhexis b) pterygium d) paronychia 30. Onychomycosis is caused by a/an: a) hangnail c) ingrown nail b) fungal infection d) allergy 31. Nail buffers should be made of: a) silk c) suede b) sandpaper d) disposable materials 32. Metal manicuring implements should be disinfected in: a) an EPA-registered disinfectant c) an antiseptic b) alcohol d) an ultraviolet-ray cabinet 33. A product that is used to lubricate and soften dry cuticles and brittle nails is a: a) hand cream c) cuticle cream b) cuticle solvent d) matrix cream 34. When wearing polish, most men prefer a/an: a) partial tip c) glossy fi nish b) matte fi nish d) hairline tip 35. Most men prefer: a) short nails c) long nails b) pointed nails d) oval-shaped nails 498

997147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd7147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd 498498 55/31/10/31/10 112:58:122:58:12 PMPM 36. The nail shape most men do not prefer is the: a) square shape c) round shape b) pointed shape d) squoval shape 37. Performing a manicure at the barber’s workstation is called a: a) barber’s manicure c) chair-side manicure b) standard manicure d) shop manicure 38. Nail conditions that should be treated by a physician include all of the following except: a) onychophagy c) infected nails b) onychocryptosis d) onychomycosis 39. Tools, implements, and surfaces must be: a) sanitized c) sterilized b) washed d) cleansed before disinfection 40. A relaxing service that is incorporated into the manicure procedure is the: a) hand and arm massage c) scalp massage b) neck massage d) foot massage

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997147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd7147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd 499499 55/31/10/31/10 112:58:122:58:12 PMPM Answer Key—Chapter 20 NAILS AND MANICURING

1. c 9. a 17. b 25. c 33. c 2. b 10. a 18. c 26. b 34. b 3. a 11. d 19. d 27. d 35. a 4. b 12. c 20. a 28. a 36. b 5. c 13. a 21. c 29. d 37. c 6. d 14. d 22. a 30. b 38. a 7. b 15. b 23. d 31. d 39. d 8. c 16. c 24. a 32. a 40. a

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997147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd7147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd 500500 55/31/10/31/10 112:58:122:58:12 PMPM Supplement 20.0 STRUCTURE OF THE NAIL

Proximal nail fold

Cuticle Solehorn

Nail plate Eponychium Hyponychium

Nail bed Matrix Collagen fibers

Bone

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997147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd7147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd 501501 55/31/10/31/10 112:58:122:58:12 PMPM Supplement 20.1 NAIL SHAPES

Figure 20-35 Men’s and women’s nail shapes.

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