DAILY EDITION OCTOBER 7, 2016 1

Call It Web-Mart Fire Hits Gap Beauty Mark Wal-Mart says its focus will Gap comps fell 3 percent Celebrating its 60th year, be e-commerce as it scales after an arson attack at a Re-Nutriv unveils an back store openings. distribution center. antiaging line. Page 15 Page 3 Page 16 Fashion. Beauty. Business.

BUSINESS Mixed Change in Message The Air at A mélange of prints and The WWD patterns on the Paris runways emerged as a key trend this Digital Forum season, lending a spirited ● The two-day forum in New vibe to collections, as in this York brought fashion industry leaders together to digest the festival of flowers and spots latest digital trends.

from Miu Miu. For more on BY WWD STAFF the trend, see pages 5 and 6. NEW YORK — Fashion’s racing into the post-omnichannel world. When executives from the industry’s top firms gathered at the WWD Digital Forum last month, they generally avoided or bristled at the term “omnichannel” as an outmoded buzzword. But they whole- heartedly embraced its central thesis — that the combination of digital savvy and retail know-how can lead to a better customer experience. Over two days in lower Manhattan, 225 insiders on the digital cutting edge explored how bite-sized storytelling can garner digital attention, how jumping social media trends can lead to big payoffs in stores and much, much more. SEE PAGE 8

FASHION David Lauren Promoted at Ralph Lauren ● As vice chairman and chief innovation officer, Lauren will lead company efforts to create initiatives to help drive the brand across all channels.

BY LISA LOCKWOOD NEW YORK — As part of its “Way For- ward” strategic plan, Ralph Lauren Corp. has promoted David Lauren to the new roles of chief innovation officer and vice chairman of the board. He was previously executive vice president of global advertising, marketing and communications and has served as a board member since 2013. In his new post, Lauren, 44, will lead company efforts to create initiatives that help drive the group’s brand across all channels. He will continue to report to Stefan Larsson, president and chief execu- tive officer. Ralph Lauren, the company’s executive chairman and chief creative officer, said, “I am pleased that David is taking on this critical new position which will formalize the role he was already playing and give

Photograph by Giovanni Giannoni Giovanni by Photograph CONTINUED ON PAGE 17 OCTOBER 6, 2016 4

Louis Vuitton Miu Miu

The Collections Vendôme in what will become wings. Demonstrative fabulous items for editorial and retail — a Louis Vuitton the brand’s new store. He Paris zippers from the knee down red and blue polka-dot terry-towel skirt; Nicolas Ghesquière faces a daunting task showed there, the space still adorned already flashy tight halter tops and HotPants (alas, the swim- at Louis Vuitton. The house was never a raw and flooded with glorious pants and lace leggings; wear was more for poolside glamour than sleeping giant, its codes never dormant. second-floor light. As illustra- dresses were sheer here, actually taking a dip); flip-flops with ultra- Before Marc Jacobs was brought in to tive of Parisian chic, Ghesquière drew from cutout there and beset with multiple lay- flat-soles cut with curvy edges, like the give it a fashion profile, Vuitton’s identity the women of the 1984 film “Rive Droite, ers, textures and embellishments. It has disposables they give you at a nail salon. as a timeless, travel-centric accessories Rive Gauche,” the music of which opened the feel of futuristic disco, informed by But not so fast. Backstage, Prada refer- house of impeccable quality and stature the show. “It’s a great movie about corpo- Cardin with an Eighties appreciation. enced a stylish storm cloud lurking in her was rock solid. Part of the brand shtick ration and lawyers,” he said. “The women On the upside, Ghesquière’s new bags sunny sky. “The double side of the beach,” and appeal were about residing above the are so strong, so sophisticated. I was really were great. He continues to do a fabulous she said of la plage Miu Miu. “The beach is fray; there was a certain tony disdain for curious to try to explore that.” job of expanding that repertoire with something beautiful and something that’s fashion vicissitudes from a house that had That exploration didn’t relate in any fashion offerings that hold the promise of now warming. Who knows how long we stayed not only active but relevant without understandable way to the classic ico- future classics. — Bridget Foley will have beaches?” caving to such folly. nography that remains key to Vuitton’s In the meantime, the Miu Miu girl That was a fashion lifetime ago. Now, identity. It made for a not insignificant wants to have fun, and so Prada refused Vuitton is very much in the fashion fray, disconnect; while Vuitton’s core merch — Miu Miu to let that ominous concern darken her with Ghesquière charged with develop- its core business — continues to telegraph What does a day at the beach look like runway. Yet life isn’t only a day at the ing for it a distinct fashion identity. That pragmatic chic, these clothes were as for Miuccia Prada? A bubbly retro romp, beach, so she deftly integrated the wealth has proven challenging. He started his complicated as it gets. Prada’s seaside-inspired spring Miu Miu of charming, innocent beach gear with tenure with a “wardrobe concept.” He has Ghesquière started on a strong note collection was full of neo-Fifties bathing great-looking real clothes. A series of maintained that philosophy while adding — fluid dresses imbued by their incon- beauties in printed bikinis, candy-colored cute tops and skirts in red, black and increasing intensity to the clothes, some- gruous power shoulders with interesting flip-flops and zany plastic bathing caps khaki that blended workwear with sweet times working a strong Seventies current, attitude. But look four — a pea-green blooming with flowers. Fantastic thick-pile smocking opened the show. There were and usually, some degree of the audacious pantsuit with a peculiar jacket, cut asym- robes were actually shaved mink, their Sixties-printed pantsuits with shrunken futurism on which he made his name. The metrically to expose the armpits (which wild, graphic and floral patterns height- belted jackets. Shiny jackets in white, latter was the case here, with an Eighties looked uncomfortable) — suggested ening their sense of playful indulgence. plastic blue and black looked like they bent in a strong-shouldered silhouette. quizzical things ahead. From there, he Annette Funicello, Gidget and Esther Wil- could chicly weather any inundation that Backstage, Ghesquière spoke of cap- let loose with a barrage of cut-and-drape liams, eat your hearts out. Thom Browne, might be on the horizon, and sky-high, turing a mood of French savoir-faire via overstatement; if he could trick it out, he you’re in good company in your kitschy elaborately carved platform wedges will a dressed-up concept of style. He was did. On jackets, what looked like capelets glam waters this spring. put a girl several inches above sea level.

Photographs by Giovanni Giannoni Giovanni by Photographs inspired by time spent recently at Place in front separated in back into flapping Prada packed her take on the motif with — Jessica Iredale OCTOBER 6, 2016 16

Fashion Scoops

Léa Seydoux at that UFOs and extraterrestrial life They All Louis Vuitton. exists — and I help him out.” Turned Out — KATYA FOREMAN Louis Vuitton’s brand ambas- sadors Alicia Vikander, Jennifer Paris In Connelly, Michelle Williams, Léa Seydoux and Xavier Dolan sat The Fall front row at the brand’s show in The sun beamed in through Paris on Wednesday, held in the the second-floor windows of the gutted shell of its future flagship Americans in Paris showroom on Place Vendôme. The show at the Pavillon Etoile, with its also drew Catherine Deneuve, panoramic view of the Arc de Sophie Turner, Karlie Kloss, Miran- Triomphe, bathing the collections da Kerr, Adèle Exarchopoulos and of the young designers present Roger Federer. with light. After tackling the Jason This was a new location for Bourne franchise, Vikander is the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund getting ready to play Lara Croft in initiative, held from Oct. 1 to 3 the “Tomb Raider” reboot, set to during Paris Fashion Week, and start production early next year. is likely to become its home- “I played the game when I away-from-home for several was a kid growing up and then of seasons to come. course Angelina Jolie stepped Each of the eight designers in and did a wonderful thing with Alicia Vikander and present — Aurora James of Broth- that character and embodied her. Michelle Williams er Vellies; Brad Schmidt and Raul They’ve rebooted the game, so it’s at Louis Vuitton. Arevalo of Cadet; Chris Gelinas of quite different since a few years CG; Becca McCharen of Chro- back and that’s what we are tak- sometimes too nice, that people ting ready to support Andra Day. York on Oct. 19. and beach huts nailed to plywood. mat; Rio Uribe of Gypsy Sport, ing on,” the Swedish actress said. abuse,” she said. Deneuve’s — JOELLE DIDERICH Partygoers were given some “It’s exciting to be at the show, and three designers each with She played down any potential character isn’t quite a bad apple. glitter application by MAC make- it’s a whole different art form to their own signature collections: comparisons with Jolie. “Every- “I’m a sort of bittersweet and sour up artists and danced to ses- learn about and explore,” said the David Hart, Jonathan Simkhai one knows that the first game apple,” she mused. Disco Fever sions by Terry. There were such actress, who has been spending and Thaddeus O’Neil — had a kind of broke out and what that Seydoux, showing off her There was an underground vibe quotes on the walls as “Turn your her time in Paris “just walking bigger, more intimate space than meant to all gamers and she did growing baby bump, said she was at Paris’ three-story, multiroom melancholy into a weapon.” around. I was at Montmartre at previous sessions, allowing a beautiful thing with highlighting taking a break from work. The ac- Le Consulat on Paris’ Right Bank, “It’s super underground; it’s yesterday, today I’m going to the them to spend more time with that one. Now it’s turned into tress was already pregnant when where Kenzo and MAC Cosmet- cool,” noted model Jake Davies. Louvre again — because I can,” buyers and media that came by. much more of a coming-of-age she posed for the campaign ics hosted a Studio 54-themed Other revelers included Charli said Deutch, who has a movie The central location also proved story, so I hope it can be some- for Vuitton’s recently launched party Tuesday night just a few XCX, Hari Nef and Julien Dossena. due to come out on Christmas a draw for visitors, designers said. thing new and different,” she said. fragrance line, though she kept hours after the label’s show, “I am wearing my mum’s bath- day called “Why Him?” starring “Seeing the collection literally in Connelly was in the middle of mum on whether the photos had whose inspiration was New York’s ing suit, mother jeans and this opposite James Franco. a new light is refreshing,” said Geli- a promotional tour for “American to be retouched. legendary nightclub and the holy sweatshirt a boy gave me last “It’s gorgeous, look at the sun nas, who had witnessed strong de- Pastoral,” Ewan McGregor’s “She’s natural — no retouching,” grail of disco. night,” said Nef. and the clouds,” cooed Australian mand for his jacquard designs at directorial debut. She recently vouched Patrick Demarchelier, About 800 people flocked to Dossena is ready for pasture. actress Angourie Rice, who has the showroom. “I feel there’s less finished shooting “Granite Moun- who shot the ads. The two were the pop-up venue in Pigalle that The Paco Rabanne creative just wrapped filming “Spider-Man: of a hustle here than in New York, tain,” based on the true story of a already plotting their next photo was open for just a month in Sep- director for women’s wear who Homecoming.” She confessed to where everyone’s in such a rush. crew of firefighters who battled a session together. tember before it shuts down for showed his collection last Thurs- a case of fashion show jitters. “It’s There’s a calmness here, people deadly wildfire in Arizona in 2013, Dolan, meanwhile, recently renovation and turned into a hotel. day had lost his voice. nerve-racking, but very exciting.” want to take a little more time.” opposite Jeff Bridges, Josh Brolin wrapped shooting on his first “They kept it open just for “It’s really the kind of places Diane Kruger, who said she Gelinas, who used to live in and Miles Teller. English-language film, “The Death us,” said Humberto Leon, Kenzo where Carol and Humberto like to would be leaving for Hamburg the Paris, was also taking some “It’s the men who are the wild- and Life of John F. Donovan,” cocreative director alongside take us,” said Kenzo chief execu- day after the show to start filming time while in town to visit his old fire fighters who are out on the in which he directs a cast that Carol Lim. “We wanted to have tive officer Eric Marechalle. “They her first German-language movie, haunts. “Paris is like my spring line and out on the mountain. My includes Natalie Portman, Jessica a fun party for everybody. We’re make us discover new places in Fatih Akin’s “Aus Dem Nichts” (“In break,” he said. character does work with horses, Chastain, Susan Sarandon, Kit not going to re-create anything. Paris.” — LAURE GUILBAULT the Fade”) was less chirpy. “It’s Hart was also in a positive though, so I got to do some of Harington and Kathy Bates. We love dancehall. This guy Todd based on a true story, I play a frame of mind and had bagged that — riding,” she said. “It’s definitely bigger,” he said Terry from New York is DJing woman whose husband and child meetings with Bergdorf Good- Williams, who is to portray of the production. “It’s challenging, upstairs,” said Leon. are murdered by neo-Nazis; yeah, man and Matches. Charity Barnum in “The Greatest but it’s also inspiring. I’m not afraid “Each floor has a different Girls On Film it’s a comedy,” she deadpanned. “Everyone loves the color Showman,” said her preparations of working with huge talents — ambiance, so depending on your Miuccia Prada showed her “The set is amazing, it’s so and the prints,” the men’s wear are not too onerous. “She’s not a quite on the contrary, I’m very mood, you can go to the different ongoing support of women creative, it immediately stands designer said. “Here, people are circus performer. But there’s a lot inspired and very excited about it. rooms,” added Lim. (They included and film at the Miu Miu show on out as Miu Miu with all the graphic asking more for things that are of singing and dancing,” she said, It brings me to a different place.” the “chill room” with cushions on Wednesday with a front row of colors,” said Ella Purnell, eyes fashion driven, whereas in New calling rehearsals “intense” and the YouTube sensations Chloe and the floor and the “dance hall” with in-demand starlets. Zoey Deutch, as big as saucers. The British York, it’s more basics.” dancing style “Fred and Ginger.” Halle Bailey, aka Chloe x Halle, lots of metallic tassels.) who had a bit of a Marilyn Monroe actress revealed she’s due to Hart himself was in pre-vaca- Deneuve is filming “Bonne were at Paris Fashion Week for the “Upstairs, there are lights and moment in the show venue’s wind start filming a movie with Gillian tion mode. “We tacked on a few Pomme,” a comedy opposite first time. “This has been so much everything, it’s like a full-on situ- tunnel lobby, with the skirt of her Anderson in Cincinnati called days and we’re going to Corsica. I Gerard Depardieu. The title liter- fun,” said Halle. Having opened for ation,” said Lim with a laugh. Up Miu Miu dress flying up, took in “UFO.” “It’s all naturalistic, it’s set can’t wait,” he said. “I haven’t been ally translates to “Good Apple,” Beyoncé on the European leg of next, the designers are to show the show’s lo-fi beach-themed in the modern day. It’s about this on vacation for two years.” implying a “nice person, and her Formation tour, they were get- their collection for H&M in New set, with colorful clouds, parasols boy who’s obsessed with proving — ALEX WYNNE Memo Pad

Kadro, the hire is a way to “differ- Convention in Philadelphia this “We’ve had a number of show, namely to expand its reach little initiatives are about trying to Cartoon entiate” the show’s coverage on summer. The cartoonist, who requests from people to draw across platforms. Sound famil- connect to other audiences…and TV and via social media. was on assignment for The New them,” Kadro said, noting that iar? Kadro pointed to the launch bring them in.” Central “It brings a visual component Yorker, appeared on the show to the team is thinking of bringing of the show’s daily podcast last While “CBS This Morning” to stories that doesn’t exist publicize her illustrations of the in a printer so guests can have week and the use of Facebook has delivered year-over-year In an effort to reach new in our space,” Kadro said. “We convention. While in the green- their own hard copy sketches. Live for interviews as a way audience growth for 48 con- viewers, “CBS This Morning,” the look at the social platforms room, she made a quick sketch “She’s incredibly popular to draw more attention to the secutive months, it still trails morning show hosted by the trio as an extension of our brand. of guest Carole King, who would when she’s here,” offered Kevin “brand.” The producer’s use of leader ABC’s “Good Morning of Charlie Rose, Gayle King and When we put Liza on television perform on the last night of the Prince, the show’s social media the word “brand” and not “show” America” and NBC’s “Today” Norah O’Donnell, has added New it’s to make people aware that convention. Her ability to quickly producer, who said now that belies a larger goal, which is to show. For the week of of Sept. Yorker cartoonist Liza Donnelly we have this happening on depict a scene by sketching on Donnelly is on board, they will reach new audiences. 26, ABC reeled in 4.42 million as a contributor. our other platforms, to go and an iPad drew the attention of the have her document other “big Kadro admitted that it’s hard total viewers, as NBC nabbed It may seem counter-intuitive check out our Instagram and three hosts and crew. events,” such as the Grammys to say if social media can drive 4.37 million and CBS grabbed at first blush — a TV network with social feeds.” What followed were a few or the Halloween Parade in eyeballs to watch the TV show, 3.6 million. For the important multimedia storytelling tools at Donnelly — who also will con- collaborations with CBS, includ- New York. It’s a way for CBS to but a robust social media strate- 25- to 54-year-old age group, its fingertips turning to one of tinue to contribute to The New ing a series of sketches of the differentiate its coverage, the gy helps “create awareness.” NBC drew 1.8 million, ABC had print’s oldest occupations for Yorker — was first introduced to anchors and crew at work during producers noted. “When the show relaunch in 1.5 million and CBS grabbed 1.1 growth — but according to the the gang at “CBS This Morning” the DNC, and other behind-the- But the hire is also part of a 2012, there wasn’t really a built-in million.

Vuitton photographs by Stéphane Feugère Stéphane by photographs Vuitton show’s executive producer Ryan during the Democratic National scenes moments. larger strategy for the morning audience,” he said. “All of these — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD