Edition 01 I 2013 Çaykurmagazine TEA I TURKEY I TRADITION

The secret of Rize From Discover the unique fl air of the Black Sea region and fi nd out what makes Rize tea so special. plantation Page 8

The faces to cup of Çaykur Page 10 A team of ambitious people always stand behind the fi nest tea. To fi nd out who they are and where they come from, turn to Page 12 A life of tea Çaykur’s general director, Imdat Sütlüo˘glu, speaks about family, the future and why tea is his life. Page 6

Organic and sustainable

Sustainability is the word on everyone’s lips – Çaykur, too, has committed itself to the concept by changing its entire tea production to organic cultivation. Page 14

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ÇaykurNews Dr. Monika Beutgen German Tea Association

N24 report on Çaykur Just in time for the Anuga 2013 food fair, news chan- A symbol of hospitality nel N24 is broadcasting a 20-minute documentary on the company Çaykur. The fi lm follows General Direc- ‘Tea – a symbol of hospitality.’ This is what Dr. Monika Beutgen loves most about the tea hub of Turkey. tor Imdat Sütlüo˘glu, revealing fascinating insights The managing director of the Hamburg-based German Tea Association sees similarities to traditions Dear Tea Lovers, into tea production, the Black Sea region of Rize and ‘here in East Frisia’. During a chat with Çaykur magazine, she also gave her view on whether organic tea how local tea farmers live and work. Broadcasts: is mere hype or indeed the future of the market. ‘Where there is tea there is hope!’ – we have Sir Arthur Wing Pinero to Tue, 8 October 2013, at 6.30 p.m. The German Tea Association focuses on issues of food law, quality assurance and nutrition in relation to tea. The association is thank for this wonderful wisdom. With the fi rst edition of our Çaykur Thu, 12 December 2013, at 6.30 p.m. made up of tea importers, producers, packers and retailers, whose different interests are all represented equally. magazine, I hope we can awaken your passion for our company, our brand and our Turkish tea culture. As the general director of the Now in the Turkish Süper Lig state-owned tea company Çaykur, I am pleased to have this opportunity Çaykur Rizespor football to be in regular correspondence with you. And I’m sure we have a lot club has been promoted Tea and Turkey – what do you associate them with? to tell each other. to the Süper Lig, the Tur- For me, tea and Turkey are truly inseparable. Tea is drunk throughout the day, including at all mealtimes. It is custom to offer kish equivalent of the every visitor a cup of tea. Like here in East Frisia, tea is a symbol of warmth and hospitality in Turkey. I fi nd it particularly nice Turkey is the fi fth largest tea producer in the world. Our tea farmers Premier League. Trainer that our Turkish citizens continue this tradition in Germany. are independent cultivators who form a proud part of our joint venture. Riza Çalımbay anticipa- Our employees see themselves both as ambassadors of tea and of our tes a challenging season for the Süper Lig new- country. In Rize, we have truly unique production conditions – almost comers, although he remains optimistic. Çaykur Organic tea: hype or the future? entirely gifted by Mother Nature, they permit us to grow 100% organic Rizespor is currently in the top third of the league Last year, a total of 1,630 tonnes of organic tea was drunk in Germany, with consumption of black tea (45%) and green tea tea. Our ultimate goal is to change the entire tea production to organic table and even beat Eintracht Braunschweig in a (55%) remaining more or less on a par. The German market for tea that has been awarded the organic seal has recorded a farming by 2023. preseason friendly in Austria. pattern of steady growth in recent years. We expect this trend to continue in the future. The fact that the total market share In 1991, the company Çaykur became the club’s of organic tea is still relatively low at 8.6% is because most tea is marketed as a blend. Many of these blends now also contain In light of their increasing demand for organic products, European sponsor and changed the team’s name. The next some organic tea, despite this not being visible on the packaging. markets are particularly interesting for us. Be seduced by our game will be held on 6 October against Antalyaspor at the club’s home ground in Rize. Organik tea range. Tea and Germany: what do German consumers want? Especially amongst young consumers, tea is becoming a real revelation. Current market research fi gures show that 47% of ‘Tea – Turkey – Tradition’ is our magazine’s subheading. History and 15 years of primary education stories, people and markets, ideas and convictions, pleasure and taste tea drinkers are under 50. On the one hand, this group demonstrates a pronounced interest in tea specialities from ‘new’ tea In 1998 – exactly 15 regions, or rather those which were previously unknown here. On the other hand, classic teas like Earl Grey and traditional – this is what you can expect from us. And of course we look forward years ago – the com- blends such as English breakfast are being rediscovered. There is also a growing trend to drink tea in new settings: whether to hearing any feedback, comments and suggestions you wish to pass pany Çaykur funded as a ‘matcha-latte’ or ‘chai-puccino’ in one of numerous fashionable tea lounges, as a health drink in a gym, as the classic fi ve on. But even more than this, we look forward to meeting you personally the construction of o’clock tea in elegant surroundings or simply at a cosy get-together with friends. in Turkey. Why not come to visit us in Turkey? You are very welcome! a primary school in I would like to fi nish by expressing my thanks for your interest in our Rize. Currently more Çaykur brand and the Turkish tea culture. I hope to be able to get you than 1,000 pupils are taught by almost 50 teachers. As a state-owned company, Çaykur feels a pro- to know personally over a cup of tea soon. nounced responsibility for the welfare of the Rize

province and its inhabitants. It knows the key sig- Saygılarımla, nifi cance that education has for the future. For this Imdat Sütlüo˘glu reason, the construction of the school was only ever Imprint Publisher Çaykur General Directorate of Turkish Tea Enterprises, Yavuz Sütlüo˘glu, a matter of time, not possibility. Müftü Mahallesi Menderes, Bulvarı 53080 Rize, www.caykur.gov.tr Concept and realisation Synchronis GmbH (Hamburg) in cooperation with Bersay (Istanbul) Print compensated Id-No. 1331919 www.bvdm-online.de Photos by Melanie Dreysse (1), Çaykur (2), N24 (1), Deutscher Teeverband e.V. (1) e.V. Teeverband (1), Deutscher (2), N24 (1), Çaykur Dreysse Melanie by Photos

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the Çaykur primary school was built. It also supports numerous other social projects, cultural events and amateur and professional Çaykur – sports clubs from the Rize region. Çaykur looks back on 66 years of tradition as well as experience, passion and dedication. And in this respect, nothing is set to change in the future. By 2023, the 100th anniversary of the Re- public of Turkey, the entire production will be converted to organic farming. In 2012, the company doubled the organic cultivation land to 2,750 hectares. The key aim of Çaykur is to make Rize the world’s rooted largest region of organic cultivation while establishing the Çaykur brand on a global scale, both as an ambassador of Turkey and a in tradition daily companion for all tea lovers who enjoy healthy brews. It is the year 1947. The industrialised production of tea has reached Turkey and unfolds its fi rst blossom towards the sun. How did tea A Turkish company reads the signs of the time and opens the fi rst tea factory in the port city of Rize – thus writing arrive in Turkey? the fi rst chapter in a grand success story.

At the end of the 19th century, the fi rst planting trials were carried out in the region of Bursa, but they failed due to the unsuitable climate. Professor Ali Rıza Erten, vice pre- OverOOver the years, Çaykur experi- and fi nest quality. Regular controls of the entire production chain To this day, Çaykur has never managed its own tea plantation, and sident of the Halkali school encedeenc constant growth: new guarantee top-quality products. Çaykur’s ‘Organik’ teas are certi- the reason for this is simple: the company is dedicated to securing of agriculture, quickly found cultivationccult areas were estab- fi ed by the Swiss IMO (Institute for Marketecology). With an annual the economic and social existence of local tea farmers and thus the an alternative solution: in a lished,llish valuable manpower production of 120,000 tonnes in 46 tea factories, 75,800 hectares future of the Rize region. Over 200,000 independent tea producers report he had described that wwawas obtained and important of cultivated area and a turnover of 700 million US dollars, Çaykur is from the region, most of which are small and family-run opera- the Eastern Black Sea region contractsccon were signed. Any by far the largest tea producer in Turkey. And that’s not all: Çaykur tions, supply Çaykur’s factories. The state-owned company also had the same ecology as the stonesssto placed in the path of teas are the most popular hot drinks in Turkey, with a market share (2) (2), Çaykur (1), fotolia Dreysse by Photos guarantees fi xed purchase prices. Turks not only love Çaykur for Georgian region of Batum – thetth state-owned company of around 60%. This is a vote of confi dence that the company has its high-quality teas, but also for its social commitment. Çaykur is well known for its fruitful tea werew picked up with a smile worked hard to earn. well aware of the responsibility it bears as the main employer for cultivation. Based on that re- anda used to build a new tea inhabitants of the Rize region. It is for this reason that the company port, the National Assembly ffafactory. The recipe for suc- has played an active role here for decades. In 1998, for instance, of Turkey passed the first cessc is a popular topic of tea law in 1924. Zihni Derin, conversation.c It was nature an agricultural engineer, was ththatat ggaveave ÇÇaÇaykurykur tthehe uuniquenique fefeatureature ththatat makes its tea so special: sent to the Black Sea region Facts & Figures abundant rain in summer and mild, snowy winters keep the tea to organize and execute the necessary next steps. He be- Tonnes of dried 120,000 plants completely pest-free all year round, without any need for Company Çaykur tea annuallyy gan by developing research gardens and nurseries. Later, pesticides. The climatic conditions of the Black Sea region are also he imported seeds from Georgia – his most important Director general Imdat Sütlüo˘glu Employeesyees 11,50411,504 one of a kind in the world. ‘It is God’s blessing that we have an unri- move. The tea seedlings were then sold to local farmers. Location Rize, Turkey Tea producerscers 205205,312,312 valled product,’ says Director General Imdat Sütlüo˘glu, full of pride. In 1947, the time had fi nally come: the fi rst tea factory Turnover 700 million dollars Tea factoriesories 46 was inaugurated in Rize. With the recipe for success in its pocket and confidence in its Hectares of 75, 800 Packaging plantsants 3 Through the initiation and expansion of tea cultivation in heart, Çaykur has always followed a constant goal: to be better cultivated land Turkey, Zihni Derin is widely known as the ‘father of tea’. all the time. The state enterprise stands for the highest standards

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His motto is: ‘In Rize, we all love tea – inn ana aabsolute tea addict!’ says Emine Sütlüo˘glu. ‘But I mean this respect we are all the same. When itt iti iin a positive sense – after all, our entire life revolves comes to tea, we all have the same fee-- aroundaaro tea.’ lings and goals. ’Even as a child, he juggledd AsA he pours, the manager admits, ‘I do have sleepless school with helping his parents during thehe nightsnni thinking about the responsibility I have for the harvest. ‘Tea was part of my life as soonon region.rre We serve a huge community, identify ourselves as I opened my eyes. It has accompanieded withw the inhabitants here and provide income for more Imdat Sütlüo˘glu me throughout my whole life. I have learneded thant one million people. In light of this, my work is far with it and through it. When I was young,g, I fromf easy, but the responsibility keeps me motivated had to pick every single leaf by hand. BBackack ththen,en yoyouu couldcould pick andandgi givesves mme strength.’ about 30–35 kg per day. Now, using shears, a good picker can har- vest up to 500 kg.’ Tea is not the only matter close to Imdat Sütlüo˘glu’s heart – he is also strongly committed to the careful treatment of the environ- Imdat Sütlüo˘glu recalls that when he was around nine or ten years ment. He is a member of the environmental organisation of the old – the exact time is now a hazy memory – he had to walk for Black Sea states and was minister of the environment from 2002 miles with his parents to sell their tea. The sales points, which to 2003. Homesickness brought him back to Rize. ‘We produce A life today total more than 3,300, were the healthiest tea in the world. It few and far between. ‘Since there does not contain any chemical was a long queue, I stayed to The leaves smell like my childhood additives and we don’t use any dedicated to watch the tea until we reached chemical fertilisers or pesticides, the front, while my parents made and my youth, yet we are not bothered by pests. their way back to the village. but also like my Nature takes care of that for us.’ When it was fi nally my turn, and future Mild winters, rain and snow pro- the sales manager refused our and – above all – like my family. tect the tea plants from pests. tea because he didn’t think it was Unique climatic conditions are good enough, I could only carry it another gift that nature has gi- for a few hundred metres before I had to leave it and walk back to ven Rize, and its people are dedicated to conserving them. ‘In all the village. I was terrifi ed that my parents would scold me, but they of our necessary economic activities, it is vital to understand and understood,’ reminisces the 60-year-old with a smile. preserve the value of creation.’

Imdat Sütlüo˘glu lives directly beside the research gardens of Çay- The general director has a vision: 100% organic production by 2023. kur. He has been married to his wife Emine Sütlüo˘glu for 34 years He wants Rize to become the largest organic tea-cultivating re- tea and has four grown-up children, two sons and two daughters. They gion in the world. ‘An ever-increasing number of consumers are live in Istanbul and Erdine. In the Sütlüo˘glu household, tea is drunk opting for products from sustainable agriculture. We want to be – or better put: celebrated – several times per day. Tea culture is at the forefront of the movement. Soon, we will also produce an inherent part of daily life in Turkey. But Imdat Sütlüo˘glu is also healthy tea for the people of Europe. We hope it will serve as a interested in how tea is drunk in other countries. ‘I am married to bridge of friendship.’ Imdat Sütlüo˘glu took us to visit a tea plantation. As we wander million people, is active in research and development and is fi rmly through the fi eld, every now and again he stops to take a green committed to protecting the social rights of farmers. The company’s tea leaf in his hand, inspecting it – almost lovingly. All is well with motto is ‘Mutluluk için’ – ‘to happiness’. After all, the tea should not the harvest and a smile spreads on the face of Çaykur’s general only bring joy to its drinkers, but also to the people of Rize. Here, director, revealing a hint of pride and quiet satisfaction at the same the cultivation of tea dates back 80 years and continues to secure Curriculum vitae time. Tea is his life. the existence of the region and its inhabitants. ‘Tea is a product Born in 1953 in Ardesen · Studied business administration at Marmara University · Masterr that promises the people hope, happiness and future,’ explains at Karadeniz Technical University · Mayor of his home town · Employed in the Ministry off Nestled between the Black Sea and the Kaçkar mountains, Rize Imdat Sütlüo˘glu. ‘It forms the economic pillar of the region. Labour from 1976 to 1993 · General director of AKFA Çay AG and RÍSAS AG from 1998 to 2002 · is home to one of the healthiest and best teas in the world. Many This is why we assume responsibility for future generations while Member of the Justice and Development Party for the region of Rize in the 22nd legislative period of the Grand National National of the region’s inhabitants own their own plantations. ‘All of these simultaneously adapting to meet the requirements of the market.’ Assembly of Turkey from · Minister of the environment in the 58th government (Gül cabinet) from tea plantations have made Rize a famous brand. When Turks think 2002 to 2007 2002 to of tea, they think of Rize along with our tea pickers and all the The general director often strolls through the fi elds on visits to his 2003 · Member of the environmental organisation of the Black Sea states · General director of Çaykur since 2011 · President of families behind the work in the region,’ states the general director suppliers, asking about how the harvest is going. He meets far- the Ulusal Çay Konseyi (national tea council) since 2002 · Married since 1979 with Emine (picture) · Father of four children

with a distinct fl ash of pride. Çaykur provides work for almost a mers and employees at eye level and treats them with respect. (3) Dreysse by Photos

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Aninherent part of life ‘Once upon a time’ – a stock phrase that conjures the same image they are linked for an entire in the mind of every person in the entire world. Fairy tales from lifetime. ‘Tea has enormous Imdat Sütlüo˘glu and Ahmet Ofl u bygone days that tell of heroes and mythical creatures, love and signifi cance for the people of friendship. This time, however, ‘once upon Rize, even for those who have a time’ narrates a different story – that of moved away.’ Its economic and industrial power stretches far over a tea house in the bustling centre of Rize. the region’s mountains. Tea unites the Turkish nation – the country is proud to be the fi fth largest tea producer in the world. Ahmet Ofl u Ahmet Oflu has run Evvel Zaman, which intensifi ed his relationship with tea when he bought his own tea translates to ‘once upon a time’, since plantation last year; now he’s one of the region’s tea producers. The 2007. The building’s typical Turkish ar- large smile on his face as he bought it was thrown in for free. ‘This The ‘Once upon a time’ chitecture already nods to the infi nite nos- year, we offered tea we produced ourselves for the very fi rst time,’ talgia and tradition that await the visitor says the tea house owner proudly. His plantation is fi rmly com- inside. With its inviting, rustic interior design and oriental rugs on mitted to organic cultivation and no chemical fertilisers are used. The the walls, Turkish tea culture becomes an invigorating experience of the for all the senses. The cultivation of tea in Turkey is rooted in Rize – and the future of the industry is destined to be written here, too. The company N elements Over a glass of mouth-wateringly fragrant çay, the 48-year-old Çaykur accompanies passionate people like Ahmet Ofl u on the path D E looks back on his life. ‘I more or less grew up on the tea planta- into modernity. They want to make their beloved Rize the largest tions.’ Each and every person born in Rize has an extra-special organic cultivation region in the world. And they are certain that C Rugged valleys and picturesqueA glens stretch far into the distance, caress the water and guide it up to the clouds. The second will shine relationship with tea. It is like a member of the family with whom Allah will help them to achieve their dream. enshrouded by a cloak of lush green forests. Dense blankets of down on the tea plants, urging them to grow and thrive. fog sway between the pinnacles as if they had all the time in the world. Evergreen tea plantations climb the slopes, often leaving the valleys with their rushing mountain rivers far behind them. AILuR fThou purest form of existence, what will you do for the The Rize region An almost mystical atmosphere in which Mother Nature moves at cultivation of tea in the Rize region? Famous People her fi nest. The eastern Black Sea region is blessed with globally I shall support the water with my power of infi nite freedom. From The province of Rize is located in north- eastern Turkey directly on the Black Sea. unique climatic conditions perfect for the cultivation of tea. Here, all directions, I will summon clouds with ample room for ice and It has 324,152 inhabitants and the leading from Rize it’s almost as if the elements had made a pact. snow. Like a shepherd I will guide my sheep to their destination – economic factor is tea cultivation. not even the smallest ice crystal must lose its way on its path to Rize (city) is the like-named capital of the Black Sea the tea plants. province and is home to 141,524 residents. Mesut Yılmaz (born in 1947 in Istanbul) is The city lies at the foot of the Kaçkar moun- a former prime minister of Turkey. In 1983, he Thou elixir of life, what will you do for the cul- Rize W A TWasER tains, hence its name being derived from was the parliamentarian representative for the tivation of tea in the Rize region? Erde. words meaning ‘below the mountain’. Istanbul Rize province. He also ran for the Democratic The most important task shall be mine. From mountain rivers, EARTH Thou mother of life, what will you do for the Hemsin iiss a town and districtdistrict inin the provinceprovince Party there in the 2007 parliament elections. ocean currents and underground lakes, I will summon all my drops cultivation of tea in the Rize region? of Rize. WithWith 2,4742,474 inhabitants,inhabitants, itit isis one ofof thethe to rise into the clouds. They shall return as ice crystals, ready to I shall offer the tea plants rich soil in which they can grow to un- smaller ddistricts,istricts, althoualthoughgh it is also home ttoo Mehmet Akif Pirim (born in 1968 in Rize) one of Çaykur’saykur’s organorganicic ffactories.actories. is a former wrestler and was Olympic Graeco- fulfi l their duty: to protect the tea plants from pests. A battle that veil their full glory. My soil will embrace water, allowing it to fulfi l Sürmenee isis a small town withwith 113,6703,670 resresi-i- Roman featherweight champion in 1992. Today, has not yet been lost. Snow is the region’s greatest sanctum – its duty.y. dents in Trabzon, a provinceprovince neighbouringneighbouring he works as a trainer and wrestling offi cial. sprinkling it over Rize every year is my principle calling.g. Rize. Çaykur’sykur’s state ffactoryactory iiss located here. Nature’sN mixture of snow in winter, rain in Saadettin Kaynak (born in 1895 in summers and the year-round cool climate Istanbul) was one of the most important Thou blazing tongue of eternity, whatt keepsk the tea plants completely free from TurkeyTurkey composers of classical Turkish music. He was FIRE cosmopolitan, politically active and composed will you do for the cultivation of tea in the Rize region?? pestsppe without any chemical intervention over 300 pieces. He died in 1961 from the I shall support water with my warmth, nourished byy whatsoever.w The elements have remained long-term consequences of a heart attack. the power of the sun. I will call forth its rays and theyy faithfulffa to their pact. Now it’s humankind’s

will serve me in two ways. The fi rst sea of beams will turnttu to do the very best it can with it. (1) (1), fotolia (6), Çaykur Dreysse by Photos KaçkarKaçkar MMountainsouuntaiins

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Four steps to happiness

Turkish çay is prepared with a samovar, a tea urn which originated in Russia. It consists of two pots which fi t together perfectly. 1. The lower pot is fi lled with water and heated. In the upper pot, the tea is rinsed with cold or lukewarm water. 2. The upper pot is then fi lled with boiling water from the lower pot. The pots are then placed one on top of the other and positioned on the stove. From plantation 3. The tea is left to brew until all the fl oating leaves have settled and the leaves at the bottom have risen. 4. When serving, the strength of the tea can be adjusted to suit individual taste by pouring the tea into the glass fi rst and then fi lling it up with hot water.

Packaging and transportation to cup The fi nished tea is sent to packaging plants in Rize, Ankara and Istanbul. Çay- kur packages its tea in ac- cordance with Turkish food Fermentation The old lorry turns off the main street and steers towards a quaint law (TS EN ISO 9001:2000, yellow factory building. In the background, you can see the rising Fermentation is the conversion of organic materials using the ‘quality management standard’), and utilises cutting-edgetting-edge green foothills of the Kaçkar mountains. The lorry is one of around enzymes. In theory, enzymes ferment the chemical compounds technology. It is then transported to the nine regional directora- 30 that bring fresh tea leaves to the Sürmene tea factory every in the rolled leaves’ cell sap. In practice, this means that the tes, where it is distributed to national and international retailers. day. Founded in 1974, it now employs 120 staff. The daily capacity colour of the tea changes and it obtains its characteristic fl avour of 150 tonnes of processed tea is clear to see. and fragrance. Enjoying ‘The most important step in the work process is withering. If the ‘Because we only have a short season in Turkey, we need to work withering procedure is not carried out properly, the following sta- Drying Çaykur is available in with more technology and produce in a short space of time.’ Aycan ges can’t rectify much.’ three exquisite varie- Dilaver, production manager at Sürmene tea factory, has his own Withering Tea leaves fresh from The tea must undergo ano- ties: black tea, green tea plantations and knows what he is talking about. As producer, the plantation contain ther drying process – this tea and the new orga- consumer, worker, employee and manager, tea is an inextricable 65–70% cellular water. time, on metal conveyor nic tea. Turks have al- part of his life. The withering phase re- belts. It is dried using air ways loved black tea, duces this to 30–35%. heated up to 90°C, and any while other varieties ‘It takes around 12 hours to obtain dried tea,’ explains the father of Here, the tea leaves are remaining cell sap clings are more popular abroad. Whatever your preference, a freshly two. Luckily, it doesn’t take as long to describe the process. poured into large vats to the tea leaves. This is how it obtains its typical, dark brown to brewed cup of Çaykur tea is the epitome of pleasure. covered with mesh, black colouring. The fi nished tea is then transported to the sieve. Picking which are then ventilated by huge fans. After a few hours, the leaves are ready for the rolling stage. Sorting

In the sorting department, Rolling Controlling the tea is sieved using special Rollers are then used sieving equipment and sorted The constantly high quality of Çaykur products is by no means left to chance. In its regular controls and research in to break up the leaves, according to strength. The tea 51 laboratories, the company places paramount important In the past, when tea leaves were still picked by hand, it was impos- which are still green is sorted into leaf tea (sieved/ on accuracy and diligence, with a strong emphasis on perfec- sible to harvest more than 35 kg per person. The life of tea farmers at this point. Oxygen broken tea) and small leaf tion. Production is carried out in accordance with the TS EN was made easier with the discovery of special shears fastened to a mixes with the excre- tea. The semi-finished pro- ISO 9001:2000 ‘quality management system’, thus ensuring picking bag. With their help, effi cient workers can pick up to 500 kg ted cell sap and the ducts are fi lled into standard sacks and sent to the storage area. that customers receive top-quality natural products. of fresh tea leaves every day. The best time to harvest is from May fermentation process begins (see next step). The wet mass of With this step, the factory’s work is complete and the packaging

to October. A lorry then transports the raw material to the factory. leaves is broken up using a shaker or sieve. (1) Schneider (1), Kaja fotolia Dreysse(10), Fotos: department takes care of the rest.

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Özer Topçu

The faces village will also have embraced right – every tea leaf is ecological agriculture. The tea worth cash. The compa- farmers support the change of ny Çaykur pays 1 Tur- their own accord and under- kish lire per kilo. A day’s of Çaykur stand the larger significance harvest of 250 kg can behind it. reap the equivalent of al- most 80 British pounds. The Topçu family belongs to High-quality organic tea Ayla Ilgaz attempts a simple explanation of what her this group. Since 1974, Suna must not contain any daily tasks involve. ‘We start with the appearance of (56) and Özer Topçu (58)have managed their own plantation in weeds or rootstock. Everything has to be carefully sorted on the dried teas. Then we smell the fragrance of the Yesiltepe. During high season, they begin their day at 5 a.m. and the plantation. sediment and taste the liquid. But most important sometimes work late into the night. Nevertheless, they still see their of all is the taste that the tea leaves in the mouth. work on the plantation as more of a hobby. ‘No one can live off tea Suna Topçu is well travelled and has seen a lot of the world; but Turks prefer tea that produces a tart fl avour on the alone, and even with a pension it’s not easy,’ states the mother of regardless of where her path leads, she has never seen anywhere tongue. Each stage is evaluated and the tea with three, rearranging her brightly coloured headscarf. Her three daugh- as beautiful as her beloved Yesiltepe. Every morning when the mu- the highest number of points also logically has the ters left the village, and the tea plantation, a long time ago. One now ezzin calls out ‘Allah-u Ekber’, she and her husband are already up highest quality.’ Nevertheless, there are signifi cant lives in Istanbul, and the others are studying in Miami. The move on their feet – and they love it. ‘It’s as if nature was saying to us, differences between the tea varieties that must be to America was inspired by their father, who spent 20 years wor- “Don’t sleep – wake up and get moving!”’ And that’s exactly what observed during the tests. Green tea must not con- king on ships there and still fl ies there to work for several months Suna and Özer Topçu do, day after day. Ayla Ilgaz tain any oxidised components,whereas the opposite every year. Suna usually goes with him when she isn’t visiting should be true of black tea. ‘The funny thing is that her other daughter in Istanbul. ‘I always only work on the tea plan- ‘When I started at Çaykur, my mother said to me: “That’s wonder- all tea varieties are produced from exactly the same plant – the tation for six months; I spend the other half of the year with my ful, my daughter! Now you can drink as much tea as you like!”’ Camellia sinensis tea plant,’ explains Ayla Ilgaz. daughters.’ Ayla Ilgaz, the bubbly woman with friendly eyes and brown curls, has worked at the research institute of Çaykur since 2003. As ma- And once again she proves the fact that tea brings people together Today, Fatma Topçu (31) is visiting her parents’ tea plantation for nager of the technology department, she works with her team to and stands as an expression of solidarity: amidst research and a the fi rst time. She has been married to an offi cer for ten years and develop new tea varieties and improve existing ones. Quality ana- never-ending mountain of paper, Ayla Ilgaz stumbled across the lives with him and their six-month-old daughter in Istanbul. As a

lyses are also her responsibility. man of her life. ‘We were colleagues and worked together for (4) Dreysse by Photos young and modern Turk, she no longer identifi es herself much with Neriman Canbaz many years.’ The wed- traditional tea cultivation. ‘For me, tea tradition means drinking or- After completing her studies, Ayla Ilgaz moved to the region of Rize. ding wasn’t held until ganic tea.’ For her mother’s sake, she takes the tea-plucking shears Tradition meets modernity – Neriman Canbaz wears her headscarf ‘Until then,I just saw tea as something you drank.’ When she began after the harvest season – but has quickly had enough. ‘I always have backache and my for more than one reason. It stands for the faith, traditional values to work in the tea industry in 1985, however, tea quickly became though, in accordance feet are sore.’ Suna Topçu smiles mildly, mutters something like and love of Turkey. ‘In this respect, people are welcome to call me a way of life. As an operating engineer, she enriched countless with the deep-rooted tra- ‘the youth of today ...’ and turns back to her tea leaves. She thinks old-fashioned.’ The qualifi ed agriculturist smiles. For her, knowing factories with her work, while gathering valuable expertise and dition of the Rize region. back to the days when plucking shears were yet to be invented. her background is essential. At the same time, however, it’s also experience. Simultaneously, she started to study the topic of tea The leaves were picked by hand – an arduous and weary task. ‘God important to know where you want to go in life while making a place cultivation. ‘I learned more about tea cultivation and also began bless the people who invented these shears!’ Since then, the job for yourself in the world. Since April 2013, Neriman Canbaz’s place intensive research on its factory production.’ All of this now plays is so much easier. ‘Picking tea leaves is like dancing,’ fancies Suna has been a comfortable leather chair behind a large desk. As direc- a pivotal role in her current position. Topçu as she moves her shears with fi nesse. When the tea planta- tor of the Çaykur organic factory in Hemsin, she radiates authority The Topçu family tions are as lush as those in Yesiltepe, up to 250 kg of tea can be in a friendly, likeable manner. Her colleagues respect and value her. The research institute of Çaykur is home to a biochemical laborato- picked every day. ry, in addition to chromatography, soil analysis and microbiology One tea plantation in Her family is proud of how far she has gone. ‘I was born in Rize and labs and testing facilities. All samples originate from the company’s Yesiltepe has already Fatma Topçu With such a mountain of leaves, it’s not unusual for a couple of my family has made its living from tea for generations,’ says the own tea plantation. This forms the very heart of the firm, espe- commenced its second leaves to fall from the pile. ‘Money, money, money!’ comes the cry mother of two, who lives with her husband not far from the factory. cially because development and research are directly linked to the year of ecological pro- from between the tea plants. ‘Quick, gather up the leaves – that’s Neriman Canbaz has been employed at Çaykur since 1992 and has success of the products. ‘All processes are prepared and executed duction. By 2015, the Suna Topçu money!’ The command sounds like something a strict foreman worked long and hard to achieve her personal dream of becoming here in the institute, right up to the market launch of the product.’ other plantations in the would say, but Suna Topçu’s voice carries a smile. But she’s quite a director of her own factory.

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Trust and control

Organic cultivation The economic system of the future

Organic agriculture is a resource-effi ci- and internationally renowned inspection body. This is based on ent and environmentally friendly eco- the Turkish organic regulation, the European Directive (EC) no. nomic system based on the principle 834/2007 and the American National Organic Program (NOP). of sustainability. Instead of creating its In Hemsin since 2009 products at the expense of the environ- In Hemsin, most tea farmers have already converted to ecologically ment and nature, it aims to produce in friendly production or are currently in the process of doing so. In harmony with them. terms of organic production and sustainability, the region is a great source of pride for Çaykur. But it’s not only organic cultivation that The company Çaykur has embarked on this long journey. By 2023, is leading Hemsin towards modernity; the reins of its ecologically the 100th anniversary of the Republic of Turkey, Çaykur’s entire friendly factory are held by a woman – Neriman Canbaz. tea production will be converted to organic farming. In 2012, the company had already doubled the organic cultivation land to 2,750 But why all this effort? The conversion to organic cultivation sup- hectares. This is a realistic time frame for such an ambitious aim – ports one of Çaykur’s core values: the future of the Rize region and after all, conversion is a laborious process that requires the close its inhabitants. Through resource-effi cient agriculture, the future observation of a number of factors. In general, it takes up to three of the eastern Black Sea region is secured in the long term. But years to completely rid soil of residues left by old farming methods. that’s not all: through the globally increasing demand for organic New machines are required and workers need constant training products, exportation can be expanded and the prosperity of the and further education. region grows. By not using pesticides, the tea also has a superior quality with a more intense fl avour. As the leading organic company, Çaykur has initiated the largest organic agriculture projectct in Turkey: currentlycurrently,, mmore than 4,500 Although Çaykur is still taking its fi rst steps in this major project, organic farmers in the it is encouraged by every single hectare of converted organic eastern Black Sea region land. The company looks confi dently towards the future – secure carry organic certifica- in the knowledge that with the support of tea farmers, it is doing tion from IMO-CONTROL something very special for the Rize region and tea production Ltd., a globally active throughout Turkey.

Organik Organik Rize Black Tea (400 g) The organic, aromatic version of the Turkish classic.

Extraordinarily delicious tea Organik Hemsin Black Tea (400 g) Çaykur’s Organik teas stand for exceptional tea pleasure and top quality An intense tea experience from the heart of Rize. completely free from chemical residues. By purchasing this tea, consumers actively support the inhabitants of the rural region of Rize, making an impor- Organik Yesil Green Tea (250 g) tant contribution to ensuring their social and economic livelihood. The Organik Green tea from the Black Sea – enriched with product range is prepared in the ecologically friendly factory in Hemsin. the healing powers of nature. Photos by Dreysse (2), Çaykur (2) (2), Çaykur Dreysse by Photos

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