1. History Monasteries and Churches of the Qalamun
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________________________________________________________________________________________________________ MONASTERIES AND CHURCHES OF THE QALAMUN (SYRIA): 1 ART AND PILGRIMAGE IN THE MIDDLE AGES MAT IMMERZEEL PAUL VAN MOORSEL CENTRE, LEIDEN UNIVERSITY he mountainous area to the north scape of the Qalamun through the ages. We of Damascus, known as the Qala- do, however, have to realise that this inten- mun (Djebel Qalamūn), has long tion is ambitious, as it requires a systematic been a Christian stronghold in the survey of the area and a detailed analysis of Tpredominantly Muslim Middle East (fig. 1; the ancient buildings combined with a study all figures are by the author, unless men- of relevant literary sources. With this limita- tioned otherwise).2 Traditionally, the major- tion in mind, our point of departure will be ity of the Qalamun’s Christians were adher- the situation in the decades before and dur- ents to the Byzantine Orthodox (Melkite) ing the Crusader era (1099-1291), focussing Church, living in places such as Saydnaya, in particular on two interrelated subjects that Macarat Saydnaya, Macalula, Yabrud, Qara in recent years have raised scholarly inter- and Deir Attiya. The Syrian Orthodox est: the flourishing of church art in the Qala- Church was well established in Nebk, Qary- mun, and the impact of pilgrimage, in par- atain and Sadad in the eastern part of the ticular to the Monastery of Our Lady in Qalamun, owned two monasteries here (Deir Saydnaya. Mar Musa and Deir Mar Elian), and had 1. HISTORY bishoprics in Damascus3 and Sadad.4 With the increasing importance of the Greek The Christians of the Qalamun lived in the Catholic Church in Damascus and its sur- shadow of the events that rocked the Levant roundings in the eighteenth century, the de- from time to time, yet they lived close nomination of several Melkite monasteries enough to Damascus and the Crusader states and churches changed from Greek Orthodox to experience the consequences of political to Greek Catholic.5 In the next century the and socio-economic changes, with their ad- two West Syrian monasteries were trans- vantages or disadvantages. From 970 on- ferred to the Syrian Catholic Church. wards, Damascus fell under the authority of This study aims at giving the initial im- the Fatamids in Cairo. The foundation of the petus to reconstructing the Christian land- Latin states around 1100 did not really pose ______________________________________________________________________________________________________ Journal of the Canadian Society for Syriac Studies 7 (2007) - Page 74 Monasteries and Churches of the Qalamun (Syria) _____________________________________________________________________________________________ a threat to the Emirate of Damascus. Nur ad- headed by General Kitbuqa entered Damas- Din succeeded where the Crusaders had cus in the presence of its allies, the Arme- failed; he took Damascus in 1158. Saladin’s nian king and the Latin Prince of Antioch.9 capture of Jerusalem and the rural areas of Many Mongols were adherents of the East the Kingdom of Jerusalem in 1187 resulted Syrian Church, which helps to explain why in a certain détente between the contesting the Christians of the cities that they con- parties. Under the Ayyubids (1174-1249) quered were occasionally spared. Feeling commerce and cultural life flourished. Da- strengthened by this changed state of affairs, mascus was a junction on the trade routes Damascene Christians went in public pro- connecting all quarters of the Islamic world cession through the streets on 31 August. and the Crusader states and apparently the Their joy was premature: three days later the indigenous Christians benefited from these Mamluks defeated the Mongol contingent at favourable conditions as well. Ain Jalud. The Muslims retaliated upon the In Damascus too, the Melkites formed Christians by demolishing the cathedral and the predominant Christian minority. By the Syrian Orthodox church.1 0 Soon after, contrast, for the Syrian Orthodox this city the cathedral was rebuilt, but it was de- was of minor importance. The Muslim au- stroyed again in 1400. Not a single post- thorities had imposed restrictions on the medieval source alludes to adorned churches number of churches within the city walls, inside Damascus. If there were any murals reducing it to a maximum of fifteen. This left, they must have disappeared during the amount the Christians had to share with the anti-Christian clashes in the summer of Jews, who had one synagogue. According 1860. Many Christians perished when their to Ibn cAsakir (shortly before 1169), most quarter in between Bab Tuma and Bab of the Damascene churches were either Sharqi was sacked and burned down.1 1 The ruined or turned into mosques.6 Two build- houses and churches were reconstructed or ings were still in use: the Melkite Cathedral replaced in the next years, and this was done of al-Mariamiya (St Mary’s), which the so thoroughly that next to nothing of the old Spanish Muslim Ibn Jubayr found deco- architecture survived. rated with ‘remarkable pictures that amaze Turning back to the Middle Ages, soon the mind and dazzle the gaze’ in 1184,7 after the defeat of the Mongols, the Mamluks and a Syrian Orthodox church near Bab started a series of campaigns against the Cru- Tuma. The restrictions did not apply to saders, ending with the fall of Tripoli in 1289 churches outside the city walls, like those and Acre in 1291. With the favourable atti- of St Paul and St George. The latter was tude of the Damascene Christian population mentioned as a property of the Monastery towards the Mongols in mind, the new rul- of St Catherine on Mount Sinai in a letter ers had good reasons to suspect the indige- of Pope Honorius III to Abbot Simeon of nous Christians of being the natural allies of this convent from 1217.8 their fellow believers from the West and In the mid-thirteenth century, the politi- East. The assault of Qara in 1266 illustrates cal and military balance in Syria changed the perceptibly deteriorating situation (see dramatically due to the Mongol invasions. below), and symbolises the end of the flour- On 17 February 1260, the Mongol army ishing Christian renaissance in West Syria. ______________________________________________________________________________________________________ Journal of the Canadian Society for Syriac Studies 7 (2007) - Page 75 Monasteries and Churches of the Qalamun (Syria) _______________________________________________________________________________________________________ 2. THE MONASTERY OF this church I saw a wooden panel measuring SAYDNAYA one el long and half an el wide, placed be- hind the altar in an embrasure in the wall of The most famous Christian monument of the sanctuary guarded by an iron grille. On the Qalamun is the Greek Orthodox Monas- this panel a likeness of the Blessed Virgin tery of Our Lady in Saydnaya, situated had once been painted, but now, wondrous about 30 km to the north of Damascus (figs to relate, the picture on wood has become 1, 2). The main reason for its celebrity was a incarnate and oil, smelling sweeter than bal- miraculous icon known as the Chaghoura, sam, unceasingly flows from it. By which Syriac for ‘The Illustrious’, ‘Celebrated’, or oil many Christians, Saracens and Jews are ‘Renowned’. The earliest sources on the often cured of ailments.... To this place on convent and the cult of the Chaghoura are the feast of the Assumption of the glorious from the final quarter of the twelfth century. Virgin and on that of her Nativity all the From this moment on the information is Saracens of that province flock to pray to- abundant, since visitors have left us their gether with the Christians, and the Saracens memories in travel reports, which today are perform their devotions there with great rev- essential for research on the history of the erence’.13 site and the tradition of the icon and its Burchard’s account of the inter-religious cult.12 Allegedly, the convent was founded veneration of the Virgin of Saydnaya during by the Emperor Justinian in A.D. 547. The the feasts of the Assumption (15 August) icon is also said to date from this period, but and Nativity (8 September) astonishes, but so far few efforts have been undertaken to finds support in ‘History of Churches and substantiate these apocryphal allegations on Monasteries’, a fourteenth-century compila- the basis of literary traditions and the sur- tion of Arabic texts attributed to the Coptic viving remains of ancient buildings. priest, Abū al-Makārim, and composed of material collected between 1171 and about 2.1. THE CULT OF THE 1210. The author discusses in detail the icon CHAGHOURA and its miraculous oil production, and quotes a priest from the monastery: ‘On this The absence of historical sources on the day gather to this place Christians, Muslims, monastery and the icon from before the later Nestorians, Melkites, Syrians, and others, twelfth century is all the more remarkable approximately four or five thousand peo- because the earliest writings reveal astonish- ple’.14 Obviously, the incarnation of the icon ing details of what appears to be a centuries- fascinated believers irrespective of their re- old and vibrant tradition of pilgrimage to ligion. The persisting attraction that Sayd- Saydnaya’s convent. The first reference oc- naya has held for Christians and Muslims curs in the account of Burchard of Strass- until our own times strengthens the credibil- bourg, Emperor Frederick Barbarossa’s am- ity of these accounts. bassador at the court of Saladin, who visited Evidently, these sources bear witness to Saydnaya around 1175: ‘In this church a tradition of uncertain age, which may at twelve virgin nuns and eight monks de- first have been local, but which seems to voutly serve God and the Blessed Virgin. In have expanded to an international level from ______________________________________________________________________________________________________ Journal of the Canadian Society for Syriac Studies 7 (2007) - Page 76 Monasteries and Churches of the Qalamun (Syria) _______________________________________________________________________________________________________ the late twelfth century onwards.