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(LIM IT E 0 (LIM IT E 0 NOYP '1, MUSEUM STREET. LONDON. l.eGinea Per Anatturn 1'! I'k. k . :- Jk, c(b'ýpq ý.4,/ý,, lasi ZANZIBAR. VOL. II. il -1 SAV~AGE OF TBE NYIKA. V --! -a ZAN Z I BAlt; CITY, ISLAND, AND COAST. JA RICHARD BY F. BURTON. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. II. LONDON TINSLEY BROTHERS, 18, CATHERINE ST., STRAND. 1872. [AZZ Bights reserved.] JOHN CUILDS AND SON, PIiNTERS. I '/, CONTENTS OF VOL. Il. CHAPTER I. FROM ZANZIBAR TO MO.MBASAH PAGE .... 1 CHAPTER IL MOM NBASAH OR MVfTA .. 23 CHAPTER MI. VISIT TO THE KISULODI-NI MISSION HOUSE.. CHAPTER IV. THE PEOPLE OF MOMBASAH.-THE WANYIKA TRIBE CHAPTER V. FROM MOMBASAH TO THE PANGA-NI RIVER.. 75 104 CHAPTER VI. FROM PANGA-NI TOWN TO TONGWE OUTPOST.-THE BALOCH GUARD 139 CHAPTER VIL THE MARCH TO FUGA. -ASCENT OF THE HIGHLANDS OF EAST AFRICA.-PRESENTATION TO KING KIMWERE .. .. .iSS P/j' _ CONTENTS. CHAPTER VIII. THE MARCH BACK.-THE HIPPOPOTAMUS' HUNT.-THE EETURNTO ZANZIBAR .. .222 VISIT TO SA'ADANI, THE THE EAST AFRICAN EXP TO KILWA, THE END OF C,PTAIN SPEKE .. NOTES ON COMMERCIAL 1857-1S59 . CHAPTER IX. COPAL FIELD .. 260 CHAPTER X. EDITION OF 1857-1859 .. 283 CHAPTER XI. THE EAST AFRICAN EXPEDITION (1857-1859) 329 CHAPTER XII. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 371 APPENDIX I. MATTERSATZANZIBARINTHEYEARS....... .. .. 405 APPENDIX II. A. B. THERMOMETRIC OBSERVATIONS IN EAST AFRICA APPENDIX II. C. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS OBSERVATIONS DURING A COAST OF AFRICA . NOTES TO APPENDIX III. *. 426 * . 433 APPENDIX III. VOYAGE OF RESEARCH ON THE EAST 458 .. 514 ZANZIBAR. PART Il. THE COAST AND THE INTERIOR. ZANZIBAR. CHAPTER I. FROM ZANZIBAR TO MOMBASAIR. Urbis ab angusto tractu qua vergit in Austrum, Planities vicina patet: nam cotera Pontus Circuit, exiguo dirimi se tramite passus. C. CLAUD. iN RUE. lib. 2. 348. ON Monday, January 5, 1857, began our trial trip, which homely term was justly written large as 'tentative expedition,' by the then President of the Royal Geographical Society. But a stiff north-easter blowing dead in our teeth, the crew of the Ri6,mi would not wear round by day, and at night all showed a predilection for the Safar khoriyah,' i. e. anchoring in some snug bay. Consequently the old tub, with knees and mast loose like a slaver's, did not make Kokoto-ni, the usual departure point from Zanzibar Island, till 7 A. 31. on January 8. VOL. II. I KOKOTO-NI. Kokoto-ni (at or in) the pebbles,' is an anchorage 18.30 direct geographical miles from, and north with 3 miles east of, Zanzibar City. Formed by a bight with a streamlet, and the Island of Tumbatu, with its little outliers, ManawamTna and Popo (in Owen Moina and Benoth), this roadstead is rendered dangerous during the Azyab, or N. East monsoon, by a heavy rolling sea and a coral-bound lee-shore. The coast has the usual edging of sand, clear as crystal, and of bright green mangrove, whilst an inner belt of darker jungle defends a country, here, as everywhere around, prodigiously fertile, green, and monotonous. The interior is a mass of cultivation, manioc and sweet potato (Jezar) from Madagascar, superb mangoes and cocoas waving in the clear sea-breeze, and limes and oranges, the latter disposed, as by the Paraguayans, in long rows, which, at a distance, imitate the tea-field. Clove plantations adorn the uplands, and the giant Calabash (Adansonia digitata) stretches its stumpy, crooked arms over the clustering huts. The tree is at once majestic and grotesque; the tall conical column of spongy and porous wood, covered with a soft, glossy rind, which supplies half Africa with bast, will have a girth of forty to fifty feet, far exceeding the cedars of Le- KOKOTO-NI. banon, whilst the general aspect is that of a giant asparagus. Like the arbutus, some trees will be bare, others in leaf, and others in flower, all at the same season. When thickly clothed with foliage growing almost stalkless from the wood; topped with snowy blossoms, like the fairest and lightest of water-lilies, and hung about with four or five hundred gourds; ovals somewhat larger than a cocoa-nut, dressed in green velvet with the nap on, and attached by a long thin cord, like tassels which wave with every breath of the zephyr, its appearance is striking as it is novel. Nothing, in fact, after the negro can be more typically and distinctly African. Escorted by Said bin Salim and his slave, we visited the village Mw6ndd. It is the normal collection of cajan-thatched huts, with wattle and dab walls, gathering round a little Mosque and grave-yard. There are no stone dwellings, but scatters of such hovels extend far and wide. The settlement was mostly tenanted by women who hid themselves, by children who ran away, and by slave-girls who squatted, combing and plaiting one another's locks; these grinned merrily enough, having nought to fear. The faces were hideous to look upon,. with black, coarse AGRICULTURE. skins, scarred and seamed by small-pox; huge mouths, and rolling eyes. Not a few were lame and toothless, and the general dress was the ungraceful swaddle of blue, checked or indigodyed stuff. Presently we were addressed by an old man, carrying a spear, and attired in Arab fashion, of red cap, loin-cloth (Futah), and Tobe (Taub), or shoulder-scarf. Taking us for traders, who came to buy cocoa and cloves, he placed a Kitandah (cot) under the central calabash, the gossip-place of the village, and brought us cocoanut-water, which here takes the place of coffee. In vain we offered high prices for meat; geese, ducks, and fowls, however, were abundant. After a short rest we set out northwards, to inspect the plantations. Most of the men were at work in their Mashamba; the weeds had been burned for manure, the primitive manner of restoring nutrition to the soil, and the peasant, with his rude implements, was smoothing the lowlands for paddy. Already the light showers of the Azyab had flooded the ground, and the stagnant stream which we forded was choked with rush and sedge. A 'Tell,' or dwarf rise, was occupied by a farm belonging to the late Sayyid; here we were again seated and supplied FOUL WEATHER. with mangoes. This fruit, curious to say, would never fall upon the Prince's head, although his courtiers often suffered severe contusions-at least, so we were assured. After a long walk, which crippled my naked arms and legs with sunburns, we returned to the shore, and Said complaining, with a visage like Falstaff's ' wet cloak ill-laid up,' that never before had he endured such fatigue, we signalled the Ri~mi for a boat. It was five hours coming, the wind blew off shore, and we had some trouble in persuading certain Tumbatu men to carry off the party of six in a monoxyle, a single log of wood, propelled by a scarf. A few dates and a dollar sent them back happy, and the Ri~mi had used her time well in washing decks and taking in water. The weather now set seriously against us. The thermometer fell some 50 (F.), and heavy showers, mostly in the morning, wetted us clean through, despite all precautions. Lightning from the N. West appeared; the - egg of the cloud showed the focus of electric matter, and tornados, exactly resembling those of the Guinea coast, made the crew down sail, and satisfy themselves with one knot an hour. They had a peculiar style of keeping watch; all sat up sing 6 THE GREEN ISLAND. ing till 10-11 P. x., after which every man slept as unanimously. The only waker was poor Said, who with red eyes and peeling nose suffered crispations when the squalls came on. About 9 A. Mw. (January 10) we sighted for the first time IPemba, the Emerald Isle of these Eastern Seas; and after three days' stumbling over 33 miles from Kokoto-ni, Pemba channel, with the hills of the Mrima clear on our left, appeared at 3 P. iv. To the right rose the treegrown banks, and the verdant coral-ledges, which have given a name to the Green Island of the Arabs. Except from the mast-head it is invisible at an offing of 12 miles, this forest- clump emerging from the blue and buoyant wave, and therefore it was neglected by the Periplus. In A. D. 1698 the bold buccaneer Captain Kidd here buried his blood-stained hoards of gold and jewels, the plunder of India and of the further Orient. The people have found pots of 'nuggets, probably intended for buttons, in order that the pirate might wear his wealth. Thus it is that the modern skipper, landing at Madagascar, or other robber haunts of the older day, still frequently witnesses the disappearance of his brass buttons, whilst the edge of a knife resting upon his throat secures the quiescence CHAK-CHAK TOWN. essential to the rapid performance of the operation. The complicated entrance to Chak-Chak, or Shak-Shak as the Arabs call it, the chief port, fort, and town, has that silent, monotonous, melancholy beauty, the loveliness of death, which belongs to the creeks and rivers of those regions. The air was pure and sparkling; a light breeze played with the little blue waves; the beach, wherever it appeared, was of the purest golden hue, creamed over with the whitest of foam; and luxuriant trees of the brightest green drooped from their coralline beds over a sea, here deeply azure, there verdigris coloured by the sun shining through it upon a sand-shoal.