feature | top 10 tips for everything you do

Hear that? It’s 2012 knocking…are your who essential skills up to speed? Whether it’s learning a new technique, trying a new color or resolving to improve wants the talent you already have, keeping your techniques sharp as needles is the only way to stay competitive and to be a maintain a healthy clientele. Here’s the first step—dozens of incredible tips on the techniques you use in the salon every day, from the best educators in the business. It’s the perfect way to skillionaire jumpstart your New Year! Top Ten Tips For Everything You Do By Angie Manson

achieve a first rate bob Traci Sakosits Sassoon Regional Creative Director

1. Make a Decision—Choose the right length for the client’s hair texture and bone structure. 2. A Once-Over—Assess the hair line, growth patterns and bone structure before and after the shampoo. 3. Body Language—A natural body position for the client/model is important for achieving balance of the line. The head should not be tilted too far forward, and the legs and arms should not be crossed. 4. Divide and Conquer—Sections should mirror the desired geometry. Keep them small, clean and consistent. 5. Loosen Up—Use little-to-no tension. The tension amount is determined by the hair’s texture, density and growth patterns. The tension should also be adjusted for the shape of the skull and the ears. 6. Stay Low—Cut each section on the skin or through the teeth of the comb without elevation. 7. Natural Fall—Comb the hair from roots to ends, in the position it would fall naturally. Avoid over-direction when creating a geometric line. 8. True Position—When cutting the hair through the sides and front, cut the line in the position the hair will be worn. This will help avoid creating unwanted graduation or a rounding of the line. 9. On the Side—Ensure even distribution of hair with a side parting. The parting should move diagonally from the side it is worn, back to the center crown. Image Courtesy of Sassoon ABC Cutting 10. Drying Pattern—Blow-dry the hair with suitable finishing products and in the same manner and sections that you used to cut, starting at the nape. Visually check for unwanted graduation and symmetry once the hair is dry. (Check out all the Sassoon training materials in the BTC store.) Image Courtesy of Redken

retouch like a master Leah Freeman FUSE Salon; Redken Artist

1. Level Best—Keep color within two levels of the guest’s natural 7. Best Brush—When retouching foil highlights, use a brush with level for the most real-looking results. This will result in a softer shorter bristles for better control and to prevent overlapping. regrowth, provide the greatest degree of control and guarantee 8. Down Low—When retouching lowlights, avoid applying dark color to that the shade will flatter the skin tone. the ends. For highlight clients, lowlights are inevitable. One of my 2. Hit the Bottle—Consider using the bottle instead of your thumb. favorite strategies is to place Redken Shades EQ Cream 07WN It’s a more accurate and targeted way to apply color. It also helps Chai Tea + 10 volume Pro Oxide in one bowl, and Shades EQ prevent banding. Cream Clear + 10 volume Pro Oxide in another. Apply the 07WN 1-2 inches from the regrowth. Apply the Clear to the remainder 3. Double Up—It’s safe to use one formula if the regrowth is less than of the strand. With a clean brush blur the two together. This will 1 inch. But if the last color service was more than 6 weeks and you keep the dark shade where it’s needed and prevent the ends from try to retouch past the one-inch of regrowth with the same formula, appearing muddy or flat. Blondes love it! your chances of banding increase. In this case, try a Modern Virgin Application. Zone 1: Formula of choice. Zone 2: Zone 1 formula 9. Try the Rick-Rack Technique—Here’s how it works! Mix two formulas— + 1 level lighter and one family warmer (same developer as Zone within the same family or level—and place each in a bowl. Alternate 1) Example: Zone 1: Redken Color Fusion 6N + 20 volume Pro the formulas for a seamless retouch. When doing blondes, for Oxide. Zone 2: Redken Color Fusion 1/2oz. 6N +1/2oz. 7Gb + 1oz. example, mix one formula that is one level lighter than the natural 20 volume Pro Oxide. This will produce a seamless finish! shade and a second formula that is brighter. Here’s an example for a natural level 6. Formula 1: Redken Color Fusion 7Av + 20 volume 4. Follow Directions—Always mix your color according to the Pro-oxide. Formula 2: Redken Color Fusion 12Av + 40 volume manufacturer’s instructions. The amounts of all colors and Pro-oxide. Formula 1 controls warmth while Formula 2 brightens. developer must be accurate to avoid creating inconsistent color Work in very fine sections. There are three great benefits from this and inhibiting proper deposit. technique: it’s a multi-dimensional effect, it’s an awesome add-on 5. What Time is It?—Don’t guess—use a timer. Reducing or adding and guests can’t do it at home! processing time can also result in an inaccurate color deposit. 10. Remember the Golden Rules—Divide the head into quadrants. Work 6. Cool Tool—When formulating, always use a level finder. This is with paper-fine partings. Follow these rules and you’ll never miss the tool that separates pros from the un-licensed professional. an area, and your saturation will be amazing! If your formula is off by even one level, it can turn your world upside down. Knowing your starting level will determine your result, and guarantee predictable results. Redken’s Style Station app features a Level Finder that allows stylists to determine their clients’ starting haircolor level and a timer with multiple alarm tones that can be set for several clients at once with individual ring- tones. It’s available for download on iPhones and Android phones. Images Courtesy of Great Lengths

shine at extension work Celeste Lucero Technical Director for Great Lengths

1. Hairline Check—The shape of the hairline will help you determine how far up you’ll place your extensions. 2. Density Check—This is crucial for balance. If the hair is fine, avoid adding too much additional hair or it will look unnatural. 3. Strand Guidelines—Follow these general rules for strand count— add 3-5 rows at the sides, 2-5 rows at the nape and 2-5 rows at the perimeter for volume. 4. Straight Lines—When applying extensions, work with neat, complete, clean, straight partings. Don’t follow the curve of the head. 5. Length Formula—When adding length, remember that double the length on the top equals the length on the bottom. So if you’re adding four inches of length on the top, you can add up to eight inches on the bottom. 6. Talk it Through—Extension consultations are critical and they must be thorough. This is often an emotional decision and a significant investment. Be sure your client understands the service and care completely, and be sure you understand exactly what she wants and expects. 7. Color First—Always pre-color extensions before you apply them to the head. 8. Pick Your Pattern—Extensions are always placed in a pattern, i.e. a triangular pattern. Determine the pattern that you will follow before you begin applying the extensions. 9. Thermal Strategy—When using thermal tools, always avoid applying heat to the attachment area. So if you’re ironing the hair, place your finger on the attachment point and place the iron below your finger. Show your client how to do this, too! 10. Brush Work—Regular brushing prevents extensions from matting or becoming damaged, and it makes removal a cinch! Educate your clients on the importance of brushing their hair.

behindthechair.com 96 produce stunning session work Andrew Dale, UNITE Founder and Artistic Director; Michael Haase, UNITE Senior Artistic Director

1. Big Tease—Backcombing isn’t a random activity—it should be targeted to specific areas or to achieve specific effects. Before you start to backcomb, start at the end. Picture the finished look, then think backward, deconstructing it from finish to start so you know precisely where the backcombing is necessary. 2. Sink Your Teeth—When backcombing, the tighter the look, the smaller the teeth should be on your teasing comb; use a wide- tooth comb or even your fingers for a looser texture. 3. All Rise—Before sending a model or client out the door with an elaborate ‘do, ask her to stand up and do a little spin. It’s important to reassess the balance and form of your work when she’s on her feet, and invariably, you will see something in need of tweaking that you may not have noticed while she was seated. 4. Spray Substitute—Consider using a formula like UNITE Liqua Versa Gel in place of hairspray when creating runway hair. This versatile liquid provides separation and texture with malleability to let you “change your mind,” but it provides enough hold to prevent styles from slipping. Image Courtesy of Unite 5. In the Clouds—At many of the most recent fashion shows, like Viktor & Rolf, UNITE artists created unique, “cloud-like” hair textures that were then fashioned into updos or allowed to float freely. To create this foundational “fabric”, separate the hair into narrow sections, 8. Footwork—Time is of the essence at a fashion show or on a shoot backcomb each section and then move along the backcombing and shortcuts are handy. To fashion a chignon in a hurry, grab a with a mini-crimping iron. Press softly to avoid over-creasing the men’s sock, cut off the toe and roll it into a doughnut. Slip the end hair. Then brush through for a modern, fluffy effect. of a ponytail through the hole and begin rolling upward, fanning the 6. Beef Up—If a model’s hair requires more heft to support the style hair over the sock as you go. When you reach the head, secure the that the designer or art director requires, apply a dry volumizer hair and sock with a few pins. like UNITE Expanda Dust. One puff of this powder, and hair feels 9. Smoothing Gel—The bright lights of a set or catwalk magnify every thicker and ready to support any style. little stray hair. To tame strays, dab a small amount of gel like 7. Pony Down—The low ponytail is a staple at Fashion Weeks— UNITE Liqua Versa Gel for Wet or Dry Hair on a toothbrush and designers often request this style because it’s sleek, simple and run the brush along the hairline and nape. doesn’t detract from their clothes. To produce the tightest possible 10. Keep Moving—Many stylists tend to hold hairspray too close to the pony, direct the model’s head forward, chin down. Secure the pony head. As a result, the hair becomes wet, and ultimately too stiff. tightly at the nape with a cord, not an elastic band, and cut off the Hold the nozzle 8 to 10 inches away from the hair and keep your ends of the cord. When the model’s head comes up, the pony will arm moving. Don’t overspray—a light mist is sufficient to hold the be tight and snug to the head. style and keep the hair “moveable” for the next style change!

Bryce Dallas Howard radiates in red.

turn out ravishing reds Gina Khan Logics International Color Spokesperson 1. Clean Slate—For best results, your “canvas” (the hair) must be clean. Remove as much previous color as possible. My favorite formula for removing color before a red color service is 1 scoop LOGICS Luminous Creme Lightener to 4 parts 20 volume creme developer. Process at room temperature until the existing dark color lifts to at least a Level 7 red orange. Shampoo, do not condition, and dry about 80% before proceeding with next step. Remember the ‘cleaning’ must be even. If dark spots remain, re-mix and re-apply the formula to the dark spots. 2. Twice as Nice—“Double dip” reds for maximum longevity and brilliance. 3. At the Root—To prevent hot roots, only formulate for the roots what the ends can support. 4. Ban Brown—To prevent “brown out” and produce maximum vibrancy, use pure tone color for shafts and ends. 5. More Root Advice—Another tip for preventing hot roots is to always add “background” color—a neutral or gold—to the pure tone red for the regrowth area. 6. Grey Matters—When formulating red for grey hair, remember that grey reflects more red. So always formulate with more background color to prevent a hot root. 7. Filling Station—When transforming a pale blonde to red, keep in mind that this is an extremely light “canvas.” So begin with a “sheer” background color, such as Logics Imprints Sheer gold mixed with your red formula. For your “double dip” second coat, try a pure tone such as Logics Imprints Full. 8. Safe at Home—Proper home care, including color safe products, are essential for maintaining red hues. Redheads should only shampoo two to three times a week and simply rinse and condition hair the rest of the time. It’s also prudent to keep the use of extremely hot styling tools such as flat irons to a minimum. 9. Volume Guide—On very dark levels (2, 3 and 4) of virgin hair, use a higher level of developer (30 or 40 volume) on the cold shaft to obtain maximum brightness. Also, try adding a small amount of a deeper level of red to your formula. For example if your formula is Logics Color Cremes 2 oz. RO + 2 oz. 40 volume generator, add 1/2 oz. 4RO to the formula, to maintain vibrancy. 10. Strawberry Fields—This is an excellent strategy for creating a strawberry shade on virgin Level 7 or 8. First perform a base adjust with Logics Color Cremes 1 oz. 8RO + 1oz. 10G + 2 oz. 20 volume generator. Apply this formula one inch away from the scalp, after completing an application to shafts and ends. Apply the same formula to the root area and shampoo immediately. Dry 40-50%. Next, apply the “double dip” formula—2 oz. Imprints Full 10RO + 1oz. Imprints Sheer 10G +3 oz. 10 volume generator. Apply scalp to ends, process at room temp for 20 minutes, shampoo, condition and style. 5. Panel Up—Use a panel cutting technique to subdivide the head for thrive with clippers tapering. Taper a vertical panel from the perimeter to the crest line at the center back of the head. Taper a second overlapping panel Ivan Zoot using the first panel as a guide. Repeat the process around the head. Director of Education Andis Company 6. Contrast—Light hair, use dark combs; dark hair, use light combs. Use contrasting colored combs to more easily see guides and 1. Wear White—Clipper cut in a white shirt, smock or barber jacket. taper faster. Standing with the client between you and the mirror, you become a When cutting clipper-over-comb, keep your clipper comb perfect backdrop for assessing silhouette and contour. 7. Angle Up— at an angle. Keep the handle end of the clipper comb up and the 2. Rock Out—Use a toe-to-heel clipper cutting technique when direct nose down. Cut against gravity for smoother tapering. Avoid a cutting with the clipper blade, or guide the comb against the horizontal comb position to prevent steps and marks in your taper. head when tapering short. Move from the leading edge (toe) of Clean necks and sides upward against the natural growth the clipper blade to the back (heel). This arcing motion will create 8. Clean Up— direction. Place the still blade in contact with the client. If the smooth transition tapering. growth direction is inverted, invert the tool and clean down. Avoid 3. Cut Down—When tapering or fading with multiple blades or snap-on the “redneck”—scratching the client with the teeth of the inside, guards, start with the longest guard and work your way shorter. moving blade. This will produce fewer steps and lines between sections. Start Oil every clipper, every trimmer, every client, every with the longest guard. Skip the next shortest and work lower 9. Get Slippery— time. Three drops of clipper oil, every haircut, is the key to long and with the second shortest. If you leave any weight between the two happy clipper and trimmer life. areas, the skipped guard easily blends it off. 10. Field Trip—Hang around a barber shop and watch the old guys cut 4. Back Off—Cut clipper-over-comb with a 1/8-inch (#1) guard in place hair. The best clipper cutting education happens when you are on the clipper. This will back you off from the comb by 1/8-inch, standing one foot over the shoulder of a great clipper cutter. Eyes slowing your rate of cutting for control and softening the blend and open. Mouth shut. Hands in your pockets. the cut.

flourish when working with texture Veronique M. Morrison Director of Education, Mizani

1. Inside and Out—What’s on the inside is reflected in the hair. Encourage clients to adopt a healthy diet of fruits and veggies. Drinking plenty of water is also a must. 2. Work it Out—Regular aerobic exercise also keeps hair healthy and vibrant. 3. Regular Visits—Rebook to ensure that clients visit frequently for regular trims to remove sparse ends. This keeps textured hair looking healthy and promotes growth. 4. Handle With Care—Shampoo and condition textured hair with a moisturizing shampoo. Sulfate-free formulas such as Mizani True Textures Curl Balance Shampoo and True Textures Curl Replenish are great for maintaining moisture balance. 5. Sleep Right—Advise clients to cover their hair with a satin bonnet or sleep on a satin pillow case at night. Cotton is a highly absorbent fiber, and cotton pillowcases can leech precious moisture from hair. 6. Stay Off the Sauce—Avoid drying, alcohol-based products when servicing clients with delicate textured tresses. 7. Color Wisely—Limiting lift to a maximum of three levels is safest for textured hair. Bleaching can be too stressful on this hair type. Opt for ammonia-free semi- and demi-permanent formulas whenever possible. 8. Use Protection—When smoothing curly strands with thermal tools, treat hair with products that offer thermal protection and moisturizing benefits. Mizani Thermasmooth Smooth Guard is an excellent serum—it ensures smooth, silky results. 9. Wrap Well—When securing textured hair, never use an uncovered elastic. The best option is a satin-covered band which will prevent breakage. 10. Dress Work—A moisturizing, leave-in hair dress such as Mizani Butter Rich maintains elasticity and manageability while leaving the hair flexible and full of body. Be sure clients use these hair dress products at home! Image Courtesy of Mizani create beverly hills-worthy ombré and balayage Kim Vo Kim Vo Salons, Beverly Hills and Las Vegas ombré 1. High Lift—Don’t be afraid to use 40 volume, high lift cream lightener or bleach, as long as it’s off the scalp. 2. Best Angle—Cut the bristles of your brush on an angle and brush short side to long side as you apply the lightener. 3. Not Too Much—Avoid over-saturating the hair when applying a high-lift cream. 4. The Ombré Window—If you’re less experienced, limit your ombré to Levels 4-8. 5. Seal, Seal and Seal Again—I combine my Kim Vo Brilliant Lustre Glaze with a 1 inch ribbon of demi-permanent plus 10 volume developer. 6. Divide and Conquer—Use Saran wrap and cotton to separate your sections. This always causes people to chatter in the salon! 7. Halo in There—Create a halo effect by selecting and lightening small wisps at ear level and connecting them to the bottom 4 inches of the lightened area. 8. Embrace the Warmth—Experiment with golden tones and toasted pecan shades. 9. How High Can You Go?—If you’re an experienced colorist, push the envelope with 50 or 60 volume peroxide. 10. Newbie Solution—Ombré is the perfect service for color virgins. It provides movement for most cuts and dimension for color. Plus the client doesn’t have to make an intimidating commitment to regular retouches.

balayage 1. Rainbows and Unicorns—Cut your brushes into the arc shape of a rainbow. 2. Neatness Counts—Keep your brushes clean and crisp. Squeegee them to remove excess product frequently during the application. 3. Yoplait—The consistency of your lightening crème or bleach should be identical to Greek yogurt. 4. Top 40—Unless hair is overprocessed, 40 volume, off-scalp lightener is the formula of choice. 5. Pasta Rules—What you pick is what you paint. Never lighten anything wider than a fettuccine noodle. 6. Keep Them Apart—Extreme section isolation is a must. Use cotton strips and Saran wrap to separate sections. 7. Low Places—Wrap each lowlight individually to avoid bleeding. 8. Why Not?—If you have access to 50 or 60 volume developer, if you’re experienced and if you use it off the scalp, give it a try! 9. Make It Yours—Come up with a unique name for the technique that makes it special for you. I call mine “Vo-layage!” 10. Let Yourself Go—Embrace your artistry! Don’t get too caught up in the technical aspects—take the entire “canvas” into Image Courtesy of Kim Vo consideration. succeed at grey coverage Sue Pemberton Joico International Vero K-PAK Color Artistic Director

1. Even Coverage—It would be great if clients’ grey color was the same all over, but the fact is that most people grey quite unevenly. So cover grey in zones, and formulate for each individual zone. Say, for example, that a natural Level 6 client is 50% grey in front and only 25% grey in the back—a very common scenario—and she has requested an overall light blonde result. Create a separate formula for each “zone.” In the 25% grey “zone,” apply Joico Vero K-PAK Color High Lift Natural + 40 volume developer. In the lighter, 50% grey zone, balance the look with Joico Vero K-PAK Color Age Defy 9NG + 20 volume developer or a combination of 1/2 9N + 1/2 9G. 2. Starting Point—Always start the application where the hair is the most grey and process the color for at least 35 to 45 minutes for optimal coverage. 3. Shampoo Time Out—Tell the client that it’s best to avoid shampooing the hair for the first 24 to 48 hours after the color service. This is the period during which the cuticle may still be open after the color service, and shampooing could lead to premature fading. In addition, shampoo and conditioning products with a pH of 4.5 to 5.5 (the hair’s natural pH) are the best choices for color treated hair— they will help keep the cuticle compact. 4. Grey Dudes—When covering grey on male clients, always opt for a demi-permanent formula. Demis don’t lift, and as a result, they won’t cause the appearance of warmth, which is a glaring giveaway that Sharon Osbourne’s believable, the client colors his hair. What’s more, demis blend grey rather than healthy-looking color. providing full, solid coverage, so your client will not see demarcation as his hair grows. Guys appreciate every effort to make sure their haircolor is “stealth!” 8. Condition and Cover—As any color pro knows, grey hair not only loses 5. 5 Years, Fast—To instantly erase five years, try a quick lowlight pigment, it also tends to become coarse, dry and wiry. A color service. Choose a natural or ash shade that is the same as the formula collection designed specifically for aging hair, like Joico client’s natural level. This produces a subtle blending, and it’s Vero K-PAK Age Defy, contains unique ingredients designed to great for men and women who are not quite ready to commit to full soften grey and enhance color penetration on this resistant hair coverage. type. What’s more, the shades are pre-mixed for optimal tone, 6. Have the Conversation—Most clients look better when they cover their warmth and balance. grey. After all, nobody sits in your chair and says, “Make me look 9. Highlight Strategy—Here’s a technique that works beautifully when a older and less attractive.” So even if they are not initially open to grey client requests highlights in a brown base (Level 6 light brown grey coverage, start the conversation. Talk about what they like and with blonde highlights). Working with back to back slices, alternative dislike about their hair and their appearance. Chances are there that a Level 9 blonde shade (1/2 9N +1/2 9G + 20 (6%) volume) and a grey blending or grey coverage will address some of these issues, Level 6 brown (1/2 6N + 1/2 6G + 20 (6%) volume). Or you can place so be ready to make the suggestion and offer options. the Level 9 highlights first, and then apply the base color throughout 7. Sparkling Silver—That said, the fact is some clients will prefer to the rest of the hair. keep their grey, and if it suits their skin tone and eye color, it can 10. Dimension Matters—Grey coverage isn’t an excuse for simply slapping look quite beautiful. The problem is that white hair tends to turn on solid color. Dimension is critical for a youthful look. So in addition dingy and yellow, due to smoking, medication, pollution or water. to covering the grey, do a simple 12 to 20 foil technique, or at the To restore and maintain a client’s stunning, snowy white hue, tone very least, apply the haircolor in zones using a subtle variety of hair with a formula like Vero K-PAK Chrome Demi-Permanent shades. This is important for two reasons—it will keep the client V9/Platinum. This cool violet neutralizes yellow and will make your interested and therefore, in your chair, and it’s something that she client’s white hair sparkle! won’t be able to do at home! Giuliana Rancic’s flawless foils accelerate your foiling skills Patrick McIvor Matrix Artistic Director

1. Natural Alternatives—Ombré and balayage are popular application techniques at the moment because they allow you to create natural looking highlights, off- scalp, quickly. Each of these techniques creates color that guests “want” to do rather than color that they “have” to do. 2. Ombré How-To—Backcomb the shorter hairs in each section out of the way and pinch the ends to control the longer hair. This allows you to easily highlight the proper area of the section. 3. Formulation Fun—There are so many options, so try not to limit yourself to bleach. For each client, I assess all of my Matrix color palettes—SOCOLOR, Color Sync, Logics, Imprints, plus all the great lighteners—to determine the best combination for my desired result. When highlighting and lowlighting I always place multiple colors in different foils. 4. Lightener Round—When choosing a lightener, I generally opt for a formula like Matrix V-Light because it is quick, easy to control and can be used on or off the scalp. If the hair is fragile, I prefer a conditioning formula like Logics Luminous Cream Lightener. If the hair is thick and coarse, I choose a gel lightener because the consistency saturates the hair and lightens evenly. 5. Go Low, Gradually—It’s difficult to convince that blown-out, platinum, Level 35 client that she needs more dimension/lowlights, so go slow. I usually start by applying a few Level 8 or 9 lowlights to gauge their reaction to “darker hair” before doing anything else. Among my favorite formulas for lowlights on blondes are the Matrix Color Sync Demi-Permanent WNs. If the client can tolerate this first step, I’ll gradually add a few more lowlights during each subsequent visit. 6. Tip for Tips—Never bring all of the lowlights through the ends. Instead, as you move the brush down the strand, pull it away at various points for a more natural look. Think about it—hair should never be darkest at the ends. What’s more, ends are usually the most porous areas, and tend to grab more color. Gently tapering lowlights on the ends produces the same softness you achieve with point cutting because the color does not uniformly stop at the same point, just as the lengths don’t stop at the same point when you point cut. 7. Don’t Get Horizontal—Foil placement is as critical to your results as strand selection. I never place foils horizontally because this pattern creates noticeable lines. Instead, I prefer a diagonal back and diagonal forward placement. This produces a soft, natural result and makes it easy to find the strands when retouching. 8. Pop Art—If I’m working with a tone-on-tone design, without wide variations in levels, I might place foils vertically to make the color “pop.” 9. Selection Process—For natural looking highlights, don’t be afraid to mix up the sizes and shapes of your strands. Think pasta—angel hair, spaghetti, linguini or fettuccine-sized weaves. If you look at someone with natural highlights, you’ll observe that they are never uniform. Creating a “pasta buffet” like this—and placing the lightener or color at various points on each strand—will produce a much tastier, and more believable, highlight result! 10. Too Shy Shy—The motivation of the “color shy” client has changed. At one time, clients feared color because they had never tried it. Nowadays, the main reason for a client’s skittishness is a bad color experience. An incorrect formulation or application created a result that was more tragic than beautiful. To win that client’s confidence, start with your own education—be sure you are comfortable with all aspects of every color service. Then communicate that confidence during the consultation. After you listen carefully and fully understand what happened previously and what their expectations are moving forward, talk to them about your own education and experience, discuss photographs from magazines knowledgeably and make informed recommendations. It won’t take long for them to relax and feel confident that they are in the very best hands! Image Courtesy of Martin Parsons win at updos Martin Parsons Upstyle and Cutting Education Expert

1. Tease With Continuity—Work in consistent, triangular sections, lifted vertically as if you’re cutting the hair, and stroke the base of each section 12 times. 2. Highest Point—For a no-fail updo, start at the highest point of the head. Then work down the center back, move to the back Image Courtesy of Sojourn and sides behind the ears, then to the front side sections, then the top. 3. Section Strategy—The larger the section, the less detail you’ll cut beautiful see in the final result. A good rule of thumb is if you want less detail, work with 2-3 sections in the center/back; if you want more detail, increase the number of sections to 6-7. Work graduated layers in smaller sections around the face to create more detail in the front. Determine your sectioning strategy during the Melissa Stone consultation by asking the bride to elaborate on how much and Creative Director, Sojourn what type of detail she would like to see. 4. Fine or Full?—If hair is skinny, create a larger triangular section, 1. Talk it Out—Prior to cutting long hair, conduct a thorough subdivide that section into smaller sections and tease the base consultation. The goal is to understand the client’s needs, texture, of each subsection. If hair is thick and heavy, create 1-inch what she likes and doesn’t like and her functionality requirements. sections and tease at the base to create a foundation for 2. Face It—Take face shape and bone structure into consideration securing the pins without producing too much volume. when cutting long layers. Make sure to visualize the end result. 5. High Polish—Instead of pushing the comb forward when teasing, 3. Try Dry—Once you’ve determined the blueprint for the layers, cut push it down the hair shaft and then pull back. This makes it and finish freehand. It’s easier to finish when hair is dried. easier to smooth the hair. 4. Reflect—Always use your mirror to maintain balance. 6. Face Frame—Always draw the hair away from the face, then lift it up. This ensures that the hair will be evenly distributed around 5. The Right Tool—A hard rubber or carbon comb will make all the the face. difference when cutting. The texture of the hair will determine whether you select a wide or fine tooth comb. 7. Play Misty—When you apply hairspray, avoid aiming the nozzle directly at the hair. Instead, direct the spray past the section. 6. Design Decisions—Layers generally frame the face. When working Count to five to give the spray time to settle, then run the with someone who has a wide face, create longer layers to narrow smooth part of the comb along the section for a spectacular the width. If the face is narrow, add more layers to create the finish. impression of width. 8. Spray Selection—Dry spray is the best choice for updos. To 7. Special Effects—Freshen and modernize a look with disconnection evaluate a spray, aim it up into the air and spritz. If a mist/cloud and concave layers. drops, it’s too heavy. If the cloud lifts, it’s the right weight for 8. Like Butter—Cut with a cutting lotion like Sojourn’s Leave-In this type of work. Detangler. It helps shears slide through hair easily, closes the 9. Iron Work—When working with curling irons, begin by dividing cuticle and leaves hair manageable. the hair into triangular sections, tease the base of each section 9. Bang-Bang—When cutting a fringe, determine where you need to 12 times, then curl the ends. Once all sections are curled and create the illusion of more or less width. Bangs can completely alter cooled, run your fingers through the hair for a natural look. the shape of the face so take extra care in this section. 10. Wave Work—To create soft, tumbled waves, set the hair on 10. Post-Consultation—Once you’ve finished cutting, the service isn’t hot rollers, directing the hair upward on a diagonal. Sections finished. Conduct the “end consultation” to advise the client on the should be at least 1½ inches. Once the hair cools, brush best products for her home care and to demonstrate how they are through strands with your fingers and when the hair reverses to be used. itself, you’ll see a beautiful texture! nail your finishing and detailing work Dimitrios Tsioumas Goldwell International Guest Artist

1. Set them Apart—When cutting curly or wavy textures, think separation. For curls and waves to look their best, you must create disconnection within the haircut. This will produce maximum movement and showcase these textures at their best. 2. Square Deal—To create the perfect square fringe begin by drying the hair to a smooth finish by directing it toward the face with a comb and without elevation. Then create a triangle section from recession to recession. The point of the triangle should start at the top round of the head, 2-3 inches from the hairline. Beginning on the right side of the triangle, create diagonal forward partings. Using a comb, cut the section parallel to the floor with no elevation. Continue working with diagonal sections, progressing toward the opposite side of the section. Use the hair underneath as a guideline as you go. 3. Design Points—Fringes work on most face shapes. But avoid them if the face is extremely square or round! If the client has strong features and or as I call it, a “chocolate face,” create a square fringe. If not, determine her “chocolate side” (best side) and create a side-swept fringe. Adjust the weight of the fringe for the hair texture. 4. Favorite Channel—For enhancing any length, channel cutting is the most flexible and controlled technique. It personalizes and customizes all of your haircuts. 5. Layer Cake—Create strong perimeter lines with playful interiors. Take horizontal sections, lift the hair to 180 degrees and point- Image Courtesy of Goldwell cut layers square to the floor. This will maintain strength in your perimeter and produce seamless interior movement. 6. Skinny Strands—Razor cutting fine, lifeless hair creates great texture 10. Shaping Up—Choosing the right cut for your client’s face shape and maximum volume. is key. For oval face shapes, avoid creating too much volume on 7. Shine On—Product choice is critical for producing a sleek finish top. For clients with inverted triangle-shaped faces, create width and shine while maintaining movement. My favorite formula is at the jaw line and avoid accentuating the width of the forehead Goldwell’s StyleSign Flat Marvel. Lightly pre-dry hair, then or cheekbones; for longer styles, be sure to create fullness and complete the blow dry with a Mason Pearson brush. Always use width at the nape. On clients with round faces, steer clear of over- the nozzle on your blow dryer and move the nozzle and the brush in softening an already round shape by creating a strong fringe, side the direction of the hair growth. width or a round style; instead, create a strong, angular fringe or add height to the face at the top of the style. Square-faced clients 8. Off Center—To add an unexpected twist to a haircut, consider benefit from softness around the corners of the cut with fullness asymmetry. It will be a hot trend for 2012 and will make your cut beginning at the temples. Do not enhance a square jaw by cutting distinct. a straight line at the same level. For oblong face shapes, stay away 9. Distress Call—One of my all-time favorite texture techniques is from flat, straight hair with no movement, volume or width. Break something I call “Distressed Curls.” It emulates naturally curly up the shape with a diagonal part and fullness at the sides. Finally, hair—which is never perfect or consistent. To create the look, clients with triangular face shapes need cuts with movement and start with a great blow out using a round brush to create as much width on the top and front of their style. If they have longer hair, volume as possible. Press a micro crimper at the roots (1 inch out allow the hair to mask width in the jaw line. from the scalp) and then brush out the root area. Using a wrap curling technique, alternate using 1/3-inch and 1/2-inch curling irons and pin set the curls. Pull out the curls with a wide tooth comb to create amazing, soft texture.