feature | top 10 tips for everything you do Hear that? It’s 2012 knocking…are your who essential skills up to speed? Whether it’s learning a new technique, trying a new color or resolving to improve wants the talent you already have, keeping your techniques sharp as needles is the only way to stay competitive and to be a maintain a healthy clientele. Here’s the first step—dozens of incredible tips on the techniques you use in the salon every day, from the best educators in the business. It’s the perfect way to skillionaire jumpstart your New Year! Top Ten Tips For Everything You Do By Angie Manson achieve a first rate bob Traci Sakosits Sassoon Regional Creative Director 1. Make a Decision—Choose the right length for the client’s hair texture and bone structure. 2. A Once-Over—Assess the hair line, growth patterns and bone structure before and after the shampoo. 3. Body Language—A natural body position for the client/model is important for achieving balance of the line. The head should not be tilted too far forward, and the legs and arms should not be crossed. 4. Divide and Conquer—Sections should mirror the desired geometry. Keep them small, clean and consistent. 5. Loosen Up—Use little-to-no tension. The tension amount is determined by the hair’s texture, density and growth patterns. The tension should also be adjusted for the shape of the skull and the ears. 6. Stay Low—Cut each section on the skin or through the teeth of the comb without elevation. 7. Natural Fall—Comb the hair from roots to ends, in the position it would fall naturally. Avoid over-direction when creating a geometric line. 8. True Position—When cutting the hair through the sides and front, cut the line in the position the hair will be worn. This will help avoid creating unwanted graduation or a rounding of the line. 9. On the Side—Ensure even distribution of hair with a side parting. The parting should move diagonally from the side it is worn, back to the center crown. Image Courtesy of Sassoon ABC Cutting 10. Drying Pattern—Blow-dry the hair with suitable finishing products and in the same manner and sections that you used to cut, starting at the nape. Visually check for unwanted graduation and symmetry once the hair is dry. (Check out all the Sassoon training materials in the BTC store.) Image Courtesy of Redken retouch like a master Leah Freeman FUSE Salon; Redken Artist 1. Level Best—Keep color within two levels of the guest’s natural 7. Best Brush—When retouching foil highlights, use a brush with level for the most real-looking results. This will result in a softer shorter bristles for better control and to prevent overlapping. regrowth, provide the greatest degree of control and guarantee 8. Down Low—When retouching lowlights, avoid applying dark color to that the shade will flatter the skin tone. the ends. For highlight clients, lowlights are inevitable. One of my 2. Hit the Bottle—Consider using the bottle instead of your thumb. favorite strategies is to place Redken Shades EQ Cream 07WN It’s a more accurate and targeted way to apply color. It also helps Chai Tea + 10 volume Pro Oxide in one bowl, and Shades EQ prevent banding. Cream Clear + 10 volume Pro Oxide in another. Apply the 07WN 1-2 inches from the regrowth. Apply the Clear to the remainder 3. Double Up—It’s safe to use one formula if the regrowth is less than of the strand. With a clean brush blur the two together. This will 1 inch. But if the last color service was more than 6 weeks and you keep the dark shade where it’s needed and prevent the ends from try to retouch past the one-inch of regrowth with the same formula, appearing muddy or flat. Blondes love it! your chances of banding increase. In this case, try a Modern Virgin Application. Zone 1: Formula of choice. Zone 2: Zone 1 formula 9. Try the Rick-Rack Technique—Here’s how it works! Mix two formulas— + 1 level lighter and one family warmer (same developer as Zone within the same family or level—and place each in a bowl. Alternate 1) Example: Zone 1: Redken Color Fusion 6N + 20 volume Pro the formulas for a seamless retouch. When doing blondes, for Oxide. Zone 2: Redken Color Fusion 1/2oz. 6N +1/2oz. 7Gb + 1oz. example, mix one formula that is one level lighter than the natural 20 volume Pro Oxide. This will produce a seamless finish! shade and a second formula that is brighter. Here’s an example for a natural level 6. Formula 1: Redken Color Fusion 7Av + 20 volume 4. Follow Directions—Always mix your color according to the Pro-oxide. Formula 2: Redken Color Fusion 12Av + 40 volume manufacturer’s instructions. The amounts of all colors and Pro-oxide. Formula 1 controls warmth while Formula 2 brightens. developer must be accurate to avoid creating inconsistent color Work in very fine sections. There are three great benefits from this and inhibiting proper deposit. technique: it’s a multi-dimensional effect, it’s an awesome add-on 5. What Time is It?—Don’t guess—use a timer. Reducing or adding and guests can’t do it at home! processing time can also result in an inaccurate color deposit. 10. Remember the Golden Rules—Divide the head into quadrants. Work 6. Cool Tool—When formulating, always use a level finder. This is with paper-fine partings. Follow these rules and you’ll never miss the tool that separates pros from the un-licensed professional. an area, and your saturation will be amazing! If your formula is off by even one level, it can turn your world upside down. Knowing your starting level will determine your result, and guarantee predictable results. Redken’s Style Station app features a Level Finder that allows stylists to determine their clients’ starting haircolor level and a timer with multiple alarm tones that can be set for several clients at once with individual ring- tones. It’s available for download on iPhones and Android phones. Images Courtesy of Great Lengths shine at extension work Celeste Lucero Technical Director for Great Lengths 1. Hairline Check—The shape of the hairline will help you determine how far up you’ll place your extensions. 2. Density Check—This is crucial for balance. If the hair is fine, avoid adding too much additional hair or it will look unnatural. 3. Strand Guidelines—Follow these general rules for strand count— add 3-5 rows at the sides, 2-5 rows at the nape and 2-5 rows at the perimeter for volume. 4. Straight Lines—When applying extensions, work with neat, complete, clean, straight partings. Don’t follow the curve of the head. 5. Length Formula—When adding length, remember that double the length on the top equals the length on the bottom. So if you’re adding four inches of length on the top, you can add up to eight inches on the bottom. 6. Talk it Through—Extension consultations are critical and they must be thorough. This is often an emotional decision and a significant investment. Be sure your client understands the service and care completely, and be sure you understand exactly what she wants and expects. 7. Color First—Always pre-color extensions before you apply them to the head. 8. Pick Your Pattern—Extensions are always placed in a pattern, i.e. a triangular pattern. Determine the pattern that you will follow before you begin applying the extensions. 9. Thermal Strategy—When using thermal tools, always avoid applying heat to the attachment area. So if you’re ironing the hair, place your finger on the attachment point and place the iron below your finger. Show your client how to do this, too! 10. Brush Work—Regular brushing prevents extensions from matting or becoming damaged, and it makes removal a cinch! Educate your clients on the importance of brushing their hair. behindthechair.com 96 produce stunning session work Andrew Dale, UNITE Founder and Artistic Director; Michael Haase, UNITE Senior Artistic Director 1. Big Tease—Backcombing isn’t a random activity—it should be targeted to specific areas or to achieve specific effects. Before you start to backcomb, start at the end. Picture the finished look, then think backward, deconstructing it from finish to start so you know precisely where the backcombing is necessary. 2. Sink Your Teeth—When backcombing, the tighter the look, the smaller the teeth should be on your teasing comb; use a wide- tooth comb or even your fingers for a looser texture. 3. All Rise—Before sending a model or client out the door with an elaborate ‘do, ask her to stand up and do a little spin. It’s important to reassess the balance and form of your work when she’s on her feet, and invariably, you will see something in need of tweaking that you may not have noticed while she was seated. 4. Spray Substitute—Consider using a formula like UNITE Liqua Versa Gel in place of hairspray when creating runway hair. This versatile liquid provides separation and texture with malleability to let you “change your mind,” but it provides enough hold to prevent styles from slipping. Image Courtesy of Unite 5. In the Clouds—At many of the most recent fashion shows, like Viktor & Rolf, UNITE artists created unique, “cloud-like” hair textures that were then fashioned into updos or allowed to float freely.