IN the THICK of IT How to Boost Thin Tresses Crystal Gel Dive Into Detox! Gently Draws out Damaging Build-Up from Hard Water Mineral Blondes Deposits and Medications

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BEFORE Imagine the Possibilities

Contents AUGUST / BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD VOLUME 18/ISSUE 8

32 SOCIAL STUDIES Why and when you might want to include “No longer accepting new clients” in your IG bio 34 BURNING QUESTIONS Wella Professionals North America chief blonding ofﬁ cer Zach Mesquit FEATURES 18 THE MUST LIST answers your queries 68 PORTFOLIO Eufora national trainer Dana Hodges BEAUTY Afﬁ nage Salon Professional elevates Caschetta shares her faves and raves hair’s fabric in Twilight Texture 20 #INSTAGOOD 38 Adventurous A-listers pick pixie cuts; 74 BEYOND BRANDING BASICS Barrettes make a massive impact, top artists divulge their most coveted product; plus new launches Stylists with successful online platforms whether extra-large in size or stacked lend their insights on the why and how in multiples of branding 22 RISING STAR THE COLORIST 78 THROUGH THICK AND THIN Michael Gray freshens up traditional 51 COVER LOOK Deep dive into the causes of hair plaits for both everyday and party- Schwarzkopf Professional’s Liz Haven thinning, plus solutions, advice and ready inspo on how to achieve our featured look products that make a difference 24 SALON OF THE MONTH 52 TIP SHEET 86 ADDITION MISSION Studio 285 in Evans, Georgia, Trending color goods balances a work-ready space with Incorporate these add-on services 58 STAR BRIGHT into your menu offerings to boost your quirk-heavy design Six celeb colorists reveal the formulas bottom line LIVE & LEARN behind their Hollywood clients’ color TRENDSETTERS 28 QUICK TIPS REGULARS 14 RUNWAY REPORT What you need to start your own 10 ON MY RADAR Three micro-trends sure to turn heads YouTube channel 88 INDUSTRY FEED 16 HOLLYWOOD SCENE 30 PRETTY SMART R+Co Collective member Ashley Part Four of our “So You Want to 96 ADVERTISER INDEX Streicher spills the scoop behind her Own a Salon” series: how to write a 98 IN INK favorite styles marketing plan Maggie May Hancock

ON THE COVER Photo: Imaxtree.com // Designer: Chanel Spring/Summer 2019 Beauty Launchpad (ISSN 1557-0053 & USPS 022-881), Volume 18, No. 8, August 2019 is published monthly by Creative Age Communications, Inc., 7628 Densmore Ave., Van Nuys, CA 91406-2042, USA, Phone 818.782.7328, Fax 818.782.7450. Basic annual subscription rates are: $24.00 in the U.S., $60.00 in Canada, and $80.00 in other international countries. Periodicals Postage Paid at Van Nuys, CA and additional mailing ofﬁ ces. POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS; NON-POSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: send address corrections to Beauty Launchpad, P.O. Box 460159, Escondido, CA 92046-0159. 6 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019 © 2019 Alterna Holdings Corp. www.alternacaviarantiaging.com @alternahaircare Experience ColorHold Dual-UseSerum. Some heroes wearcapes,sometransformyour hair. MEET OUR HEROES #beautylaunchpad

PUBLISHER/CEO CHIEF OPERATING Deborah Carver OFFICER 800.442.5667 x219 Jeff Black [email protected] [email protected]

VICE PRESIDENT/CFO EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Mindy Rosiejka Stephanie Lavery [email protected] [email protected] “What’s your current product obsession?”

“I’m adding Keracolor Violet EDITORIAL ART Toning Drops to Executive Editor Creative Director just about any Alyson Osterman-Kerr Danielle Caseñas shampoo and 800.442.5667 x201 conditioner to Graphic Designer [email protected] “Oribe Dry keep my balayage Laura Fenwick Texturizing blonde from Managing Editor Pre Press Manager Spray is my prematurely Karie L. Frost Sophia Freeman yellowing.” must-have to Associate Editor achieve perfectly Jasmine Brown WEB Creative Director-Web undone-looking 800.442.5667 x229 Ryan Boydstun waves.” [email protected] Director, Social and Digital Contributing Editors Media Content Emilie Branch, Francesca Moisin, Amy Dodds Tracy Morin [email protected]

“I’ve turned to ADVERTISING Digital Editor/Ad Ops ABBA Preserving David Simpson Account Executives Blow Dry Spray Shanda Ogas all summer to 800.442.5667 x220 CIRCULATION AND stave off frizz [email protected] PRODUCTION and protect my Diane Walker Circulation Director scalp from UV 800.442.5667 x221 Barbara L. Shepherd damage.” [email protected] Email Marketing Manager Steve Verba ADMINISTRATION Director of Educational Development Audience Marketing Manager Melanie Kopeikin Jamie Andrew Accounting Manager Production Director Lourdes Nuno Madlen Martinez Accounts Receivable Manager Production Assistant Viktoriya Milshteyn Claudia Marquez Special Projects Manager Sashy Rodas

ADVISORY BOARD Serena Chreky Andre Chreky Salon, Pam McNair-Wingate Gadabout Washington, D.C. Salon and Day Spa, Tucson, Arizona Mark Garrison Mark Garrison Salon, Matthew Morris-Price Planet NYC Laboratories, Denver Alex Ioannou Trio Salon, Chicago Cherry Petenbrink Salon Republic, Los Angeles

/"*130

PUBLICATION OFFICES: BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD, 7628 Densmore Ave., Van Nuys, CA 91406-2042, USA, Phone 818.782.7328, Fax 818.782.7450. The views and opinions in the articles herein are not to be taken as ofﬁ cial expressions of the publishers, unless so stated. The publishers do not warrant, either expressly or by implication, the factual accuracy of the articles herein, nor do they so warrant any views or opinions offered by the authors of said articles. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means, including photocopying, or utilized by any information storage and retrieval system without written permission from BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD. ©2018 by Creative Age Communications, Inc. All rights reserved. Some images Copyright ©2018 PhotoDisc, Inc. BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD and BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD’S logo are registered trademarks of Creative Age Communications, Inc. Subscription Customer Service: Beauty Launchpad, P.O. Box 460159, Escondido, CA 92046-0159, USA, Phone 800.624.4196, [email protected], www.beautylaunchpad.com

Back Issues & Single Copies: $10 each issue. 800.442.5667, [email protected] 8 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019

On My Radar

ALYSON OSTERMAN-KERR, Executive Editor [email protected] Good @alysonosterman

READ Business As an avid fan of Greek mythology, I was eager to read Madeline Miller’s Circe—and BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD’S it did not disappoint. Miller’s reimagining EXECUTIVE EDITOR ALYSON of Homer’s The Odyssey is told from a female perspective that’s at once sensitive, OSTERMAN-KERR SHARES subversive and strong. WHAT’S ON HER MIND THIS MONTH.

TWO UNRELATED TOPICS, both pivotal to our business, top the docket for our August issue: social media and the art of branding, as well as a (not as sexy but defi nitely as vital) conversation on hair thinning and ways to address it. Both of these discussions happen to be subjects that FOLLOW weigh on my mind. Kelsey Deuel (@kelseydeuelhair) On a professional level, there’s the social serves up swoon-worthy media discourse. We—like countless others—are blondes and vivid hues always trying to grow our IG presence via that are worth a @beautylaunchpad with images and videos that double-tap. are meant to educate and inspire; however, we also want to remain authentic to our unique voice and not simply share an image that we don’t personally endorse just because we think STYLE Wilson Collective’s it’ll net “likes.” To do so feels artifi cial, and (@wilsonhaircollective) we want to have a real relationship with our Style Both Ways cream-gel audience. It’s an ongoing battle, as I’m sure it is is as therapeutic for my for you, too. Hence, we’ve rounded up pro- tresses as it is aromatic RELIEVE beauty’s top infl uencers to share their insights for my senses, with a lively After spending a lemongrass essential oil on what makes a strong IG page and how to good chunk of June fragrance that I can’t get and July walking grow your following via strategic branding while enough of. various trade show staying true to you. Turn to page 74 to glean fl oors, my back and wisdom from the likes of Larisa Love, Jamie Sea feet were aching— and more. but after evening On a personal level for me (and perhaps applications of PARODI Professional professionally for you, in terms of your Care Comforting clientele), I’ve been waging a battle with waning Muscle Lotion strands for a few years now. While it’s relatively (@parodicare) on easy to conceal my thinning crown via strategic my sore spots, I felt styling or hair wefts, I’m dismayed that my immediate relief. hair isn’t the thick mane it once was, and—let’s WRITE face it—may never be again. For many of your Confession: I’ve long been wary of self-help/journaling clients, the same holds true. Th at’s why it’s up to books that are meant to aid in visualization and, in you to guide them on the proper styling acumen turn, life guidance. However, I recently received The and appropriate hair tonics that’ll help decrease Five-Minute Journal as a gift, and I’m offi cially on the appearance of thinning locks and, in turn, the bandwagon. Simply writing down a few notes for fi ve (or less!) minutes a day has helped to boost my increase their confi dence. To learn more, fl ip to our productivity and get a better night’s sleep. I never “Th rough Th ick and Th in” feature on page 78. would have thought! (You can order the journal from

intelligentchange.com.) VIA POST FREY/THE WASHINGTON KATHERINE AND BEAUTY COACH; SALON OF 901 COURTESY HEADSHOT: OSTERMAN-KERR ARMANDO SANCHEZ (2); ALYSON GETTY INSTAGRAM; IMAGES;

10 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019 OUTSHINE THE REST

MOROCCANOIL TREATMENT: THE ARGAN OIL-INFUSED INNOVATION THAT REVOLUTIONIZED HAIR CARE

ONE BRAND: A WORLD OF OIL-INFUSED BEAUTY

#ArganEveryDay | Learn more at MoroccanoilProfessionals.com RUNWAY CELEBRITY SALON STYLE Trendsetters INSPIRATION

R+Co Collective member Ashley Streicher masterfully uses IG to show behind-the-scenes pics of her A-list client hair creations. Flip to page 16 for her fave looks!

THE RISE OF SOCIAL MEDIA has birthed an embrace of bombastic hair trends—and we couldn’t be happier. Witness: oversize clips and barrettes—sometimes stacked to the gills—championed on Instagram by both editorial stylists and your next-door neighbor. What once seemed too fanciful for the everyday Jane—glitter- laced waves, towering fauxhawks, oversize headbands—now take up space beyond the catwalks. Certainly such whimsy is here to stay; we explore it this issue. Speaking of whimsy: Salons that subscribe to eccentricity, like Studio 285 in Evans, Georgia, easily set themselves apart from the competition. Even if quirky decor doesn’t ﬁ t your salon’s biz model, the playful ﬂ ourishes this studio contains deserve your attention. COURTESY OF R+CO COURTESY

12 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019

Trendsetters/Runway Report

Stop and Stare IF HEAD-TURNING IS WHAT THEY WANT, HEAD-TURNING IS WHAT YOU’LL GIVE YOUR CLIENTS WITH THESE GRANDIOSE TRENDS. KARIE L. FROST LOOSE WAVES? SURE. Messy braids? OK. Scrunchies? Love them. Th e most popular hair trends tend to gain traction for their universal wearability and ease of care, but what about the tress looks that elicit “whoa” stares? Best worn to occasions where stopping people in their tracks is the goal, these three trends promise to push your clients beyond their comfort zones so they can make waves—and not just the hair kind. CUSTO BARCELONA CUSTO GIAMBATTISTA VALLI GIAMBATTISTA

NEW WAVED GLITTER Moving beyond sparkles sprinkled along hair partings, backstage hair artists painted glitter ASHLEY WILLIAMS along the sinews of tress bends to catch maximum reﬂ ection and matched ﬂ ecks to pastel- dipped mid-lengths and ends for double the glistening impact. PRADA ANNA SUI

ANTONIO MARRAS ANTONIO

SIZING UP From crown-swallowing headbands to massive statement-making HEIGHT UNLIMITED rhinestone barrettes, maximalist High-rise hair fashioned into forehead-dancing fauxhawks or molded into architecturally accessories set a new gold standard

perfected peaks and valleys add inches—and miles of style. for eye-catching head candy. VIRGILE/GAMMA-RAPHO VICTOR ANDREEA ANGELESCU (5); PRADA:

14 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019 FIBER LINE

CLASSIC FIBER™ FIBER™ CREAM NEW FIBER™ FOAM PROVIDES STRONG PLIABLE HOLD COMBINES FLEXIBILITY WITH DELIVERS LONG-LASTING WITH MATTE FINISH – FOR SHORT CONTROL GIVING HAIR MEDIUM HOLD MANAGEABLE VOLUME AND NATURAL TO MEDIUM LENGTH HAIR AND NATURAL SHINE – SHINE. WITH HEAT PROTECTION – FOR MEDIUM LENGTH HAIR FOR MEDIUM TO LONG LENGTH HAIR

Mane Maven CELEBRITY STYLIST ASHLEY STREICHER DISHES ABOUT TOP LOOKS SHE HAS CREATED FOR HER CELEBRITY CLIENTELE. JASMINE BROWN Å WHEN CELEB STYLIST Ashley Streicher (@streicherhair) isn’t tending to tresses at her Los Angeles-based studio Striiike, which she co-owns with her two sisters, the R+Co Æ“The Michael Kors white sequin gown Mandy Collective member is styling the manes of celebrities like Moore wore for this year’s Critics’ Choice Awards inspired me. I felt that she needed a more Golden Globe-nominated actress Mandy Moore and Th e statuesque look to complement the dress, so we did Chilling Adventures of Sabrina starlet Kiernan Shipka. Here, a sleek style and pulled her hair back off of her face. she handpicks a few of her favorites that she has crafted for The center part gives the hair a modern look.” Hollywood’s “it girls.”

Æ“This is one of my all-time favorite Æ“I love working with Kiernan Shipka—she’s Æ“This wet look on Rachel Brosnahan styles we did on Mandy—it was for young and fearless and lets me give her big gives her such a different vibe. Not many the 2018 Emmy Awards. I love this curly hair like this! I adore this soft, spiraled people can get away with this style, soft, sexy texture; it looks and feels texture and shape on her paired with this very but she really pulls off that tough, sexy laid-back, but is still very much elevated ’70s dress. For these curls, I worked in R+Co persona. I love the texture that a wet look when paired with her elegant Rodarte TROPHY Shine + Texture Spray for sheen like this can give; it’s a gritty, sexy, rock

gown.” and hold.” ‘n’ roll feel.” R: JEFF KRAVITZ/FILMAGIC: L TO GRANITZ/WIREIMAGE; STEVE RIGHT: TOP OF R+CO COURTESY HEADSHOT INSTAGRAM; GRANITZ/WIREIMAGE; STEVE

16 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019 POWER. LUXURY. PERFORMANCE.

SILVER METALS COLLECTION

BabylissPRO® Ambassador AVAILABLE AT Soﬁ e Pok @staygold31

@BaBylissPROUSA @babyliss4barbers facebook.com/babylissprousa 19FA062174 Trendsetters/The Must List

What Moves Me WHAT’S INSPIRING EUFORA NATIONAL 1 TRAINER DANA HODGES CASCHETTA. AS TOLD TO ALYSON OSTERMANKERR 2 1 FASHION This is a key place I go to for inspiration! The textiles, the colors, the patterns, and even the concepts behind collections truly speak to me. I am always intrigued by the boundaries designers push during Fashion Week or in editorial publications. 3 2 HISTORY

I love to research trends throughout history. @DANACASH_ Oftentimes there is a particular reason as to why a look started, and I fi nd it fascinating to think about what today’s social parameters could create. 3 OCEAN It’s serene and calming. Being still and sitting by the sea keeps me grounded. The ocean’s massive size makes me feel so small yet signifi cant in that I 5 get to be in the presence of its beauty. 4 4 STREET ART As a New Yorker I have a love for all types of street art. The bright colors, the texture of its canvas and the oftentimes unique placements all captivate me. I can walk around the city day and night and fi nd inspiration through art! 5 MUSIC I’m inspired by all kinds of music, lyrics and melodies. Sometimes it’s the overall feeling I get from a particular song; other times it’s more literal and directly from the song title itself. 6 TRAVEL 6

I often travel by myself for work, yet I never feel A A T TT T

truly alone. I love to meet new people, hear their E H C S

stories and immerse myself in their culture. There’s A C

so much to learn from different parts of the world E G D

and different walks of life. O H

A N 7 MY TRIBE A D

F O

The people I choose to surround myself with (i.e. Y S E T

my salon team!) motivate me. We challenge one R U O

another and lift each other up—I’m so grateful for AIGNER: ANDREEA ANGELESCU; C (5); GETTY AND EUFORA INTERNATIONAL (2) IMAGES them. 7

18 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019 STEEL THE SHOW

New BaBylissPRO® STEELFXTM stainless steel dryer puts the element of cool in the hands of hardcore barbers, upscale salon stylists and everyone in between! The perfect blend of design, engineering and technology. High-strength stainless steel housing and a lightweight, long-life brushless motor deliver outstanding drying performance.

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@natalieannehair

@_emmaco_ IG TREND ALERT: BARRETTES —AMY DODDS ÅTRUTH BE TOLD, hair accessories haven’t ever truly gone out of style. However, the crop of sophisticated, oversized, bejeweled clips and pins popping up on our ’gram feed lately has us obsessed! From taking a mix-and-match approach à la Justine Marjan’s overabundant use of high- end clips on Ashley Graham for the Met Gala to a subdued yet equally chic use of a singular clip, hairstylists are elevating this trend—and their clients are reaping the beneﬁ ts. Like the clips you see here? Th en check out @bunchofscrunch, @gucci, @jenniferbehr, @kristiness, @mykitsch, and @pinkpewter to grab your own. continues >>

@hairby.brittany

@mustafaavci @hairgod_zito @brizabot INSTAGRAM

20 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019 @hairwithlinda

@chrisweberhair

@edgypynkgirl

@isabellajanehairmakeup

@hairbytashalouisec

@b.haircollective @prettylittlefawn @justinemarjan @bunchofscrunch INSTAGRAM

AUGUST 2019 beautylaunchpad.com 21 Trendsetters/Rising Star

Knit Together MICHAEL GRAY WEAVES PLAIT INSPO FROM ACROSS THE POND. —JB When searching for braided inspo look no further than Michael Gray’s dreamy boho creations. Th e London-based stylist takes classic plait WHO: Michael Gray favorites, such as the Dutch braid, and gives the looks unexpected twists @michaelgrayhair by inserting elements like peekaboo inﬁ nity strands or adding a pop of # OF FOLLOWERS: color with an accessory. Gray’s page will be your new one-stop grid when 16.2k (at time of print) searching to add a little something extra to a client’s style for a wedding, LOCATION: Freelance prom and beyond. in London

Michael Gray shares how to achieve this braided ’do. + Lightly spritz setting spray onto hair + Create two Dutch braids from the and run a detangling brush through forehead to the crown, and fan out to evenly distribute product. the braids for a fuller look. + Rough-dry the setting spray into the + Unclip the sides and smoothly join hair to create structure. them with the two Dutch braids. + Take a clean section of hair from + Secure the braids and loose hair into the front of the temples to the crown a ponytail using a hair tie, just below to create an oval shape. Then, the crown. secure the sides out of the way with + Band the ponytail in half to create a sectioning clips. loop and secure at the base of the “I love + Separate the top oval ponytail with another hair tie. Å the scarf that I section in half, from the + Tease the hair to lend a fuller effect. used in this hairstyle, forehead to the crown, which is very to ensure two even + Create loose waves with a curling summery and fresh,” sections. iron, and then add a scarf. says stylist Michael Gray. MICHAEL GRAY

22 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019 Improved Formula. Improved Package.

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Balance Moisture Stop Breakage Protect Color Maximize Volume Moisturizing Strengthening Color Maintenance Volumizing Collection Collection Collection Collection Trendsetters/Salon of the Month

Mobile stations with custom gold details ﬂ oat atop a NUMBER OF Google Earth mural ﬂ oor. CHAIRS: When Quirk Works 14 A GOOGLE EARTH FLOOR, A LIVING CEILING, A GALAXY HAIR-PROCESSING AREA: STUDIO 285’S DESIGN IS A DREAM COME TO LIFE. KLF

Studio 285 /Evans, Georgia Å INSIDE STORY: From the moment clients and staff interact with Studio 285 (@studio285) in Evans, Georgia, they come face-to- face with lions: Antique lion-head doorknobs sourced from Europe grant entrance to the highly stylized space, and a gold geometric lion head keeps watch behind the front desk. For owner Brittany Carrington, who started Studio 285 in 2009 as a one-room operation and has expanded it into the 4,000-square-foot beauty emporium it is today, the lion symbolizes everything she values in both business and life: strength, courage and leadership. “[Th e lion] represents who we are and, if you look closely, you can fi nd the image of a lion A six-foot chandelier casts a warm, hidden throughout the entire salon,” says sister Amber glamorous glow on the reception area. Carrington, who joined Studio 285 as chief operating off icer in 2012. mural walls with a glowing moon cocoon the color- While lions prowl the space, it’s the actual salon processing area—a natural fi t, says Amber, due to the fl oor—a roiling swirl of greens, blues and copper— orbital haircolor processors that resemble fl ying saucers. that commands the most attention. “Brittany gave a When clients recline to enjoy a toner rinse in the painter a Google Earth image of the Caribbean and shampoo area, their view is one of lush tropical plants told him to paint exactly that,” says Amber of the sprouting vibrantly from the ceiling à la the Rainforest stained concrete. Such otherworldly details abound in Café—another Orlando, Florida, fi nd. “Our guests love Studio 285: A striking six-foot chandelier was inspired their view from the shampoo chairs,” Amber thrills. by ones Brittany came across while visiting Universal Th en there’s what the sisters lovingly dub the “oddity”

Orlando’s Th e Wizarding World of Harry Potter; galaxy restroom. “We crafted and collected all sorts of unusual PHOTOGRAPHY KOLAR SALLY

24 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019 WHAT’S UNIQUE SELFIE WALL: An expansive gallery wall with revolving art has become the go-to backdrop for selﬁ es of clients sporting their new hairdos—a design element meant to appeal to the location’s younger, tech-forward audience. “Our stylists and clients have helped make us ‘Insta-famous,’ and we love the endorsement they give us each time they Lions play a major post an image at our salon,” says Amber. design element from welcome to departure. HEALING SPACE: To help bathe clients in positivity upon arrival, the exterior sidewalk contains large embedded healing crystals.

Picked antiques and oddities—some from the owner’s grandmother— decorate the restroom. items that are displayed; some we even found in our grandmother’s home,” Amber says, adding, “Walking through Studio 285 is like walking through Brittany’s The orbital processing brain.” lamps inspired the galaxy wall in the hair- And what a quirky brain—but all of the fl air isn’t processing area. without function. Phone-charging stations at each color-processing chair allow clients to stay plugged- in while fl oating workstations grant easy clearance to make space for regularly scheduled education events, RETAIL LINES: which Brittany encourages the 10 commissioned staff amika, PLUS... members to attend. “We only hire career-oriented Kevin.Murphy, TYPICAL CLIENT: Diverse, though stylists who understand that the work we do here isn’t Eleven Australia, typically younger with an eye for just about cuts, colors and hair extensions,” stresses Voce trendsetting beauty. Amber. But, with all the design that the space boasts, COLOR LINES: MOST POPULAR SERVICE: The Double she’s quick to relay that there’s more to Studio 285 Eufora, Blow-Dry. A tag team of two stylists than a pretty façade. “We have a passion for people Kevin.Murphy, working on one client helps cut and we appreciate that we get to be involved in some Balmain Couleurs down service time. “When clients of the greatest moments of their lives. At the end of Couture learn that two stylists can blow-dry the day, it’s actually not about the building; it’s about their hair in half the time, they light the people in it,” she says. up!” Amber exclaims.

AUGUST 2019 beautylaunchpad.com 25 EDUCATION TIPS SOCIAL MEDIA Live & Learn Q&A

WE’RE ALWAYS DISSECTING INSTAGRAM; after all, it’s the social media channel to learn when Add YouTube to your Å social media to amplify trying to amplify your hair message. But, what about YouTube? Home to longer-form videos, your message. YouTube provides a vehicle for hairstylists looking to educate both peers and clients. We break down what you need to start recording videos like a pro. And while YouTube can help attract new clients, do you even want new clients? Strange question, to be sure, but many hairstylists ﬁ nd their books full, and let their IG followers know as much by incorporating “No longer accepting new clients” in their bios. Is this smart business? Read on to ﬁ nd out. GETTY IMAGES 26 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019

Live & Learn/Quick Tips

Straight Shooting BRUSH UP ON THESE VIDEO SHOOTING BASICS—FROM LIGHTING AND SOUND TO EQUIPMENT AND EDITING—TO CRAFT VIDEOS THAT BEST SHOW OFF YOUR SKILLS. TRACY MORIN SO YOU WANT TO BUILD a YouTube empire? Done the hair look dull, but natural light brightens everything properly, it can reap a world of benefi ts. “If you want around the hair and improves the video quality.” to go the education route in hairstyling, being on [3] ELIMINATE DISTRACTIONS. A clean background YouTube is a huge advantage,” asserts Lexi McCracken allows viewers to focus on your work, not surrounding (@hairbylexidawn), stylist and owner at Indianapolis- clutter. “When I’m fi lming a tutorial in my salon, based Harbor Collective. “You can reach so many everything is clean and organized so people don’t get diff erent people—and even make a nice profi t from it if distracted and lose focus on what I’m trying to teach,” you get big enough!” We tapped video guru McCracken McCracken explains. “For a product review video, I want for her top tips on making a professional mark in the a clean background, but I also set up the camera so that ever-growing video domain. I’m the focal point and the background is blurred.” [1] START SMALL. McCracken initiated her YouTube [4] STRUCTURE FOR SOUND. You’ll likely need channel with only an iPhone. “Start with what you have a microphone if you’re talking while fi lming, but and add on later,” she advises. “I added a Sony Alpha a6000 McCracken avoids the issue by later adding voice-overs. “I camera—mirrorless, lightweight, easy to use—that can usually can’t use the original audio because it includes so send all content directly to my phone.” She also employs much background noise from other stylists and clients,” a Canon EOS Rebel T6i, a DSLR camera with “amazing” she says. “Also, I can let my fi lmed clients know that none video quality—but did her homework and experimented. of the audio from the service will be in the video, so they “I watched a lot of YouTube videos and started just messing feel more relaxed during taping.” around with diff erent cameras,” McCracken admits. “I’m not a videographer, but I love being able to use these [5] TAP EDITING APPS. Try various editing apps to fi nd cameras to show my work in the salon.” what works best for you—McCracken’s go-to is iMovie. “I edit all of my videos on my laptop now, but when I [2] MIND YOUR LIGHTING. McCracken warns that fi rst started out, I used iMovie on my phone, too,” she lighting can be tricky—especially in the salon, where notes. “I like Splice when editing on my phone, and you may not have control over conditions. “I always Rotate Video for when the video needs to be rotated. recommend natural lighting over a ring light,” she adds. You can also have fun with Filto, which allows you to put “Ring lights may read too harsh on camera and can make fi lters or cool eff ects on your videos!”

The Cisco Visual Networking Index predicts that video will make up a whopping 82 percent of all web trafﬁ c (both business and consumer) globally by 2022—up from 75 percent in 2017. GETTY IMAGES

28 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019

Live & Learn/Pretty Smart

So You Want to Own a Salon PART FOUR: HOW TO WRITE A MARKETING PLAN. FRANCESCA MOISIN

Å NOW THAT YOUR BUSINESS and marketing isn’t a luxury but a necessity, Zoot explains. Feeling overwhelmed? fi nancial plans are in place and you’ve comprised of several components. Th ink quality over quantity by posting selected a salon space, you’ll need to like a pro on only two top sites, and focus your energy on a marketing plan. Website writing captivating messages in lieu of “Every salon has a unique story, which “At minimum, if you own a salon you spamming your own feed. is told through a clear branding strategy must have a website,” says Sulimay. that distinguishes it from competitors,” Scrutinize your top three competitors’ Email Database says Chris Sulimay (@chrissulimayhair), sites: What are they doing masterfully Newsletters are back in vogue! Budget Georgia-based Salon 124 studios that makes you feel inspired? Make sure time and possibly money for thoughtful creative director of education your website includes carefully crafted salon communications sent to a current development. Executed correctly, Search Engine Optimization (SEO), database of clients; they can spike branding boosts loyalty while attracting the crucial process of increasing online interest thanks to their inherently new clients. As a rule, brands should visibility. Studies show that 33 percent personal nature, resulting in improved portray themselves consistently across of Google users visit the top-listed retention and boosted profi tability. Go all marketing channels—from online result—and SEO makes this possible. one step further with handwritten letters advertising to in-house promotions. An SEO specialist who knows the ropes or cards sent for holidays and client Th at’s why it’s important to have a plan can help boost rankings for increased birthdays. in place before you open shop. traffi c. Websites today must likewise be Budgeting for public relations mobile responsive, meaning the layout Loyalty Program and Events can feel challenging after investing adapts according to screen size, because Work in the cost of discounts or on rent and renovations, but pros smartphones and tablets now account for complimentary products to incentivize warn that nascent salons often fail by nearly 60 percent of all internet searches. guests to visit more often—and then not funneling adequate funds into encourage they spread the word to comprehensive marketing. “Ask yourself Social Media friends. “We’re often quick to reward how much you have to spend—then Facebook, Instagram, YouTube, and the referral that comes in, but I like understand that’s not enough,” laughs Pinterest remain key communication to compensate both parties by also men’s hair educator Ivan Zoot tools for telling a salon story in a giving a perk to the hero sender who (@ivanzoot), aka ClipperGuy. Aim visually engaging way. “But remember introduced a new client,” says Sulimay. for a budget between three to seven that social media is just one prong Launch events are a sure way to generate percent of total salon sales, which can on a marketing pitchfork, and it’s a interest—and potentially forge mutually be tweaked as growth occurs. Shops that mistake to believe all advertising can benefi cial partnerships with like-minded

make a lasting impression understand be done for free via these platforms,” businesses and neighbors. GETTY IMAGES

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OUR TOOLS, YOUR ART. VISIT FROMMPRO.COM Live & Learn/Social Studies

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BECOME A PARODI-PRO TODAY One for the Books AND LET US KNOW WHEN IT’S A GOOD IDEA TO ALERT CARE FOR YOU! THE INSTAGRAM WORLD THAT YOUR BOOKS ARE CLOSED. AD Å YOU’VE DOUBTLESS SEEN it on many Instagram proﬁ les, and maybe even considered stating it yourself: “No longer accepting new clients.” Why—and moreover, when— should you consider broadcasting this information? We spoke to Amy McManus (@camouﬂ ageandbalayage) and Danielle Canseco (@danielleemilie) about their experiences to shed some light. Both women are seasoned stylists and educators, and both DANIELLE have successful IG pages—McManus has more than 223,000 CANSECO followers and Canseco has 16,000-plus followers on her own page, plus another 26,500-plus followers on her education page, @three_coloreducation. In other words, they’re both very busy. But in Canseco’s case, it wasn’t until she opted to move to a new salon that she realized the scope of the LINDA GILLETTE PARODI problem. “I decided I should make the move on a slow CEO + FOUNDER week,” remembers Canseco. “But when I looked at my

books, I realized I was booked solid for many months—solid AMY MCMANUS We created our professional meaning 10- to 12-hour days.” Many, including Canseco, portal specifically to support would argue this is a good problem to have, but when you’re hard-working licensed consulting via text and communicating with new clients through IG direct messages, the tedium can take a toll. salon professionals. McManus experienced a similar situation. “I couldn’t keep up with the It’s easy. It’s free. It’s for you. amount of messages I was receiving and I was traveling a ton,” she recalls. “I wasn’t in the salon as much since I was on a plane most weekends traveling to PARODI-PROs enjoy: teach. I book only through DM on Instagram, so the messages were getting • Salon pricing daunting.” • Volume discounts Many leaders argue that when your client list becomes overbooked, rather • Special service than closing your books, the best way to free up some time is to raise prices. However, increasing their service prices didn’t curtail the amount of messaging We know you work both stylists received, so they opted to put “No longer accepting new clients” in their IG bios. And yes, even though they ran the risk of losing out on potentially hard every day. higher-paying clients, they decided that their education commitments and spending less time responding to queries was worth it. PARODI is However, when McManus decided to curtail her education responsibilities, HERE FOR YOU! she resolved to again welcome new clients. “I opened my books back up when I stopped traveling,” she relates. “My clients don’t come in that often due to the ease of their grow-out so I need more clients to fi ll my books. I’d say I now take PARODICARE.COM about fi ve to six new clients a month.” And while Canseco originally thought that not accepting new clients CLICK ON: would be a temporary fi x, she’s happy with how her life is more balanced now. Additionally, she realizes that this may not be for everyone. “I had a fairly busy LICENSED PROFESSIONALS schedule prior to gaining attention on IG, so I was confi dent about still having LOGIN enough clientele to keep my books in a comfortable place,” she explains. “My goal with these changes was to work less but not see a decrease in pay. So far, I’m

happy with the results.” OF ARTISTS COURTESY

32 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019 ED COLLECTIIO

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FOR INTENSE COOL SHADES THAT FADE ON TONE WICKED SHADOW Green-Gray Tones to combat unwanted red demi-permanent permanent

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Available at CosmoProf Beauty, Armstrong McCall & mydentitycolor.com Live & Learn/Burningrningrning QuestionQuestionss A You Asked,ed Zach Mesquit Answered ZACH MESQUIT CRAFTS PALER-THAN- THE-MOON HUES THAT GLOW WITH BEAUTY. THE WELLA PROFESSIONALS NORTH AMERICA CHIEF BLONDING OFFICER TAPS SOCIAL MEDIA TO SHARE HIS PLATINUM EXPERTISE WITH ZACH MESQUIT (@ZACHMESQUIT) 200K-PLUS FOLLOWERS, AND HERE HE ANSWERS YOUR QUERIES ABOUT GO- TO PRODUCTS AND COLOR TRICKS.

What are your top How long do you typically process your go-to blonde products clients’ roots for? —@bsweet.ta for both coloring and It depends, but when it comes to bleach, at-home care? typically 45 to 60 minutes. —@judy.coddington My go-to lightener is When you use the Wella Professionals Wella Professionals Blondor Multi-Blonde Koleston Perfect Color Powder and, as far as 12/0 on yourself, which at-home care, I’m not too picky as long as it’s developer do you use? sulfate-free. —@jajike I always mix it with 40-vol. and lift my Level 7 hair up to this color.

Do you ever get bored doing only blondes? —@theconﬁ dentcolorist Never! I don’t only do blondes, I just don’t What was your post everything I do. biggest struggle when learning how Do you always start in to lighten hair evenly the back of the hair when without breakage? coloring? Which volume —@salon_e do you start with and do That low and slow gives you ever reapply? the best results when —@jodidoeshair lightening hair. Trying to I actually always start in the speed up the process front and I don’t reapply with high developer is a volume. big no-no.

Want your burning question answered? Follow @beautylaunchpad on IG for the next opportunity! INSTAGRAM; COURTESY OF ZACH MESQUIT OF ZACH COURTESY INSTAGRAM; 34 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019 BEAUTY MEETS PROFESSIONAL

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@SkinResearchPro | #BoldlyBeautiful Become a pro at SRLProfessional.com/Buy POWERED BY SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL with thisfresh line. high-performance Readcolor performance. on tolearnhow toachieve three stunningcolorresults have beencraftedwithnaturallyderived ingredients that stillproﬀer optimum rather thanreduce orconcealnaturalhair. And,asanaddedbonus,these formulas lows toshinethrough. Authentic-looking iridescentnuancesenhanceandbeautify ensures uniquemultidimensionalresults thatallow thehair’s naturalhighsand Å NATURAL-LOOKING RESULTS. SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL EMPHASIZESGLOSSY, THE NEWTBH–TRUE BEAUTIFUL HONEST LINEFROM Authentically Hue Development time:upto 15 minutes. Rinse. Lotion 1.9% (6-vol.) 1:2oncrescent-shaped sectionsofthe hairfor aPastel Toning Service. Formula beautifulhonest 8-51C 2:tbh–true +9-49C(2:1)IGORAVIBRANCEActivator honest 9-49C+9-47W (2:1)+IGORAVIBRANCEActivator Lotion 1.9% (6-vol.) 1:2and Activator Lotion1.9% (6-vol.) 1:2to the regrowth area for a Pastel Toning Service. minutes. Rinseandtreat hairwith BCBONACURE COLOR FREEZE4.5.Towel-dry. Premium Developer 6%(20-vol.) 1:2to create more dimension.Development time:45 STEP 3: STEP 2: STEP 1: HIGHLIGHT AND PASTEL TONING SERVICE SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL’S NEW Follow Professional Schwarzkopf @schwarzkopfusa. Onmid-lengths andends,alternate between Formula beautiful 1:tbh–true beautifulhonest8-51C Applytbh–true +9-49C(2:1) +IGORAVIBRANCE Freehand highlightswith BLONDME BondEnforcing Clay Lightener +BLONDME tbh – true beautifulhonestcollection tbh –true 3 2 1

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STEP 1: Apply tbh – true beautiful honest 5-06N + IGORA ROYAL Oil Developer 3% (10-vol.) 1:1 on the regrowth area to achieve depth. STEP 2: Apply tbh – true beautiful honest 7-06N + IGORA ROYAL Oil Developer 6% (20-vol.) 1:1 on crescent-shaped sections of the mid-lengths and ends to create lowlight dimension. Development time: 30 minutes. Rinse and treat hair with BC BONACURE COLOR FREEZE 4.5. Towel-dry. STEP 3: Reﬁ ne hair with a refreshing Gloss Service: tbh – true beautiful honest 7-06N + 6-64W (2:1) + IGORA VIBRANCE Activator Lotion 1.9% (6-vol.) + tbh – true beautiful honest Tone Softener 1:1:1. Development time: 10 minutes. Rinse.

Psst! Any Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA developer can be used with this range. 1 2 3

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STEP 1: Apply tbh – true beautiful honest 7-47W + IGORA ROYAL Oil Developer 6% (20-Vol.) 1:1 evenly on regrowth area to create more depth. 1 STEP 2: For mid-lengths and ends, alternate between Formula 1: tbh – true beautiful honest 9-47W + IGORA ROYAL Oil Developer 9% (30-vol.) (1:1) to create lowlight dimension, and Formula 2: BLONDME Bond Enforcing Clay Lightener + BLONDME Premium Developer 6% (20-vol.) 1:2 on crescent-shaped sections of the hair to create 2 highlights. Development time: 30 minutes. Rinse and treat hair with BC BONACURE COLOR FREEZE 4.5. Towel-dry. STEP 3: Reﬁ ne with a refreshing Gloss Service: tbh – true beautiful honest 9-47W + 7-47W (2:1) + IGORA VIBRANCE Activator Lotion 1.9% (6-vol.) + tbh – true beautiful honest Tone Softener 1:1:1. Development time: up to 10 minutes. Rinse. 3 A-LIST HOW-TOS TRENDING PRODUCTS Beauty NEW LAUNCHES

Chop Shop FOR THE ADVENTUROUS CLIENT LOOKING TO MAKE A SERIOUS STATEMENT, CONSIDER A PIXIE CUT. —JB

IS YOUR CLIENT ready to take the pixie plunge? Follow the lead of A-listers like Katy Perry and Kristen Stewart, who are rocking the short ’do.

KATY PERRY KEVIN MAZUR/GETTY IMAGES 38 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019

Beauty/Look of the Moment

GABRIELLE KRISTEN UNION-WADE STEWART

HALSEY ROWAN BLANCHARD

Get the Look Enlist these cutting tools to get the chop done. For a ﬁ nishing touch! Mold her pixie into shape with these stylers and thermal tools.

Lakmé K.Style Water Touch Cool Flexible Gel Wax @lakmeusa Cricket Roc-it Dog RT-14 Texturizing Shear Agadir Hemp & Red Kavella Salty Sugar Texture Spray @kavellahaircare @crickettools Wine Hairspray Firm Hot Tools 2000 Turbo Ionic Dryer @hottoolspro Jatai Feather Black Styling Razor @jataifeather Hold @agadirint BaBylissPRO Nano Titanium Ultra-Thin 1”

Fromm Dare 1-Piece Shear @frommpro HAN MYUNG- KRISTEN: GRANITZ/WIREIMAGE; STEVE KEENAN/GETTY HALSEY: IMAGES; STEFANIE GABRIELLE: PRESLEY ANN/GETTY ROWAN: IMAGES; OF MANUFACTURERS GU/GETTY COURTESY IMAGE; Straightening Iron @babylissprousa 40 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019

Beauty/Launches WHAT’S TRENDING CHECK OUT THIS MONTH’S ROUNDUP OF NEW AND NOTEWORTHY GOODS.

18.21 Man Made Wash Eleman Beauty Eyeshadow Collection features four ultra- Spiced Vanilla is loaded with Crafted with the brand’s Tri-Plex pigmented palettes inspired by macadamia glycerides and Fusion technology, Stylecraft the elements of nature. hydrolyzed quinoa and jojoba STYLE STIX XL 1.5” combines (Shown: Aqua) @elemanbeauty esters to cleanse from head nanokeratin protein with ceramic to toe. @1821manmade tourmaline to create healthy, natural-looking curls. @stylecraftus

HairUWear Mother-of-Pearl Extensions combine the company’s lightest blonde shade with a silver for the base, as well as six pastel shades added in to create a unique opalescent color. @hairuwear_inc

Flaunting three fun designs, WetBrush Pro Shine Enhancer Nirvel Professional Electric Dreams Men Barber Exotic Oil Collection uses softens and moisturizes natural boar bristles SSururfafacaceCe CHHARAR GGeel beards and mustaches to detangle, enhance Mousse blends with an argan, linseed and shine and evenly seaweed extract and meadowfoam seed oil blend. distribute product. activated charcoal @nirvelprofessional_ofﬁ cial @thewetbrush powder to conjure texture and volume.

@surfacehairhealth OF MANUFACTURERS COURTESY

42 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019

Beauty/Launches

Alterna Caviar Anti-Aging Now housed in a 4oz. Smoothing Multi-Styling tube, Cuccio Naturalé Air Dry Balm allows Bronze Shimmer Butter clients to embrace their in Moringa and Mango natural texture and uses moringa oil and eliminate frizz for soft, mango seed butter to shiny hair. @alternahaircare moisturize and nourish skin while adding a touch of color. @cucciocolour

Formulated with aloe leaf extract, glycerin and silk Soma Colour Protect amino acids, Keratherapy Conditioner defends Brazilian Renewal keratin tresses against UV treatment smoothes and rays with a bounty of nourishes hair for 12 to 16 Featuring an innovative nourishing ingredients, weeks. @keratherapy mist-to-mousse including sunﬂ ower formula, Oribe Très seed extract. Set Structure Spray somahaircare.com protects and adds structure to hair prior to styling. @oribe

Sormé Treatment Cosmetics Lip Rescue Tinted Lip Balm includes three hues and is formulated with moisturizing shea butter, fatty acids and vitamins A, E and F. @sormecosmetics

Blended with cotton seed Inoar Professional extract, tapioca starch and Absolut Speed almond and avocado oils, Sexy Blond Shampoo and Hair Texture Sexy Hair High Conditioner reinforce Tide Texturizing Finishing blonde tones while Hairspray locks in texture and moisturizing through imparts medium hold. argan oil. @sexyhair @inoar_usa COURTESY OF MANUFACTURERS COURTESY

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PLAYING FAVORITES Surely, zeroing in on one perfect product isn’t an easy feat for a beauty pro. After all: It’s hard to play favorites. And yet, these top artists dug deep to reveal their all-time bestie product—many of which are poised to become yours, too.

NAME: Cherie Whitlock, NovaLash brand ambassador NAME: Cherry Petenbrink, Olivia Garden educator STAR PRODUCT: NovaLash CleanLash @novalashusa STAR PRODUCT: @oliviagardenint Olivia Garden MultiBrush “Not only does the CleanLash tub look pretty on my bathroom shelf, “My favorite tool is the innovative MultiBrush by Olivia Garden. but the product is also an essential part of the aftercare routine to keep The single-brush handle comes with ﬁ ve different-size barrels to clients’ NovaLash extensions clean and healthy. They’re saturated in switch out when needed. The barrels snap on and eject from the pomegranate seed oil to help nourish and condition lashes and remove handle and can stay in the hair to cool. With their ceramic and ion any pollutants and dirt that naturally build up throughout the day. The technology, the MultiBrush barrels ensure shiny, healthy and frizz- CleanLash pads are also amazing for removing any other eye makeup free hair after styling.” without pulling or risking the life span of the extensions.”

NAME: Mia Emilio, NAME: Paula NAME: Paul Stafford, master stylist at Marques, Malibu C Denman global creative Devachan in New educator director York City STAR PRODUCT: Malibu C Crystal STAR PRODUCT: Denman STAR PRODUCT: Gel @malibucpro D3 Iconic Styling Brush DevaCurl DevaFresh @devacurl @denmanbrush “Summer fun can alter my clients’ beautiful “It’s important that my clients not only have blonde colors, but a Malibu C Crystal “The Denman D3 Iconic Styling Brush is great hair when they leave my chair, but for Gel detox can bring brightness back by without question one of the most versatile days after—that’s why my pick is DevaCurl removing mineral buildup that causes brushes on the market. You can use it DevaFresh. It can be tempting to just resort discoloration. Using Crystal Gel before a to brush through wet or dry hair, create to a wash day, but I try to remind my curly service helps prevent chemical reactions body, add bend, and enhance shine. and super curly clients to extend the life of and allows for more predictable results. Plus, it ﬁ ts perfectly in your hand; the their curls a bit longer to ensure they aren’t After color or lightening services, I use it brush feels like it’s a part of you.” overmanipulating their spirals. Just spritz again to stop the oxidation process. I can’t this onto curls and go!” live without this product; it has made me a

better colorist.” OF MANUFACTURERS COURTESY

46 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019 HEADLINERS “UNRESTRICTED” ATLANTIC CITY, NEW JERSEY OCTOBER 27TH & 28TH www.headlinersedu.com #headlinersedu Beauty/Artist Picks

NAME: Rita Remark, Essie global NAME: Kevin NAME: Thom Priano, celebrity men’s lead educator Hughes, stylist and co-founder of R+Co Moroccanoil artistic director STAR PRODUCT: R+Co SAND STAR PRODUCT: Essie Nail Polish in Licorice @essie STAR PRODUCT: Moroccanoil CASTLE Dry Texture Crème @randco Mending Infusion @moroccanoilpro “My favorite product is R+Co SAND “My all-time favorite product is Essie’s Licorice. This is the black polish. As a “I love the way that Moroccanoil Mending CASTLE Dry Texture Crème. It adds texture to hair, absorbs oil and actually makes manicurist, I love that it gives me the best Infusion works because it visually gets rid shiny fi nish and, as a nail artist, its super- of any split ends after the hair has been tresses feel thicker and fuller. It has a semi- matte fi nish, so people never know you pigmented formula is perfect for adding styled. It’s also great for banishing any crisp, detailed nail art. It’s a classic that I’m fl yaways following a beautiful blowout.” actually have product in your hair. It looks like you spent a day at the beach.” constantly stocking up on!”

NAME: David Raccuglia, American NAME: Mackenzie Tereault, Trissola NAME: Jaimee Crew founder and photographer extension and color specialist Smith, JCPenney STAR PRODUCT: artist American Crew STAR PRODUCT: Trissola True Pomade @americancrew Keratin Treatment @trissola STAR PRODUCT: Mizani 25 Miracle Milk @mizani “My all-time favorite product is American “Trissola True Keratin Treatment is a Crew Pomade. The Pomade was part standout when it comes to smoothing “I love using the multibeneﬁ t leave-in of the original six products in American systems. I choose Trissola for my clients Mizani 25 Miracle Milk spray on every Crew’s initial launch, and was designed because it creates a better overall hair type. It has amazing moisturizing to be a modern and ﬂ exible alternative experience since there are no harsh and strengthening properties that help to traditional styling gels. The pomade’s smells and the process is quick. My detangle, control frizz and enhance shine. legacy is forever tied to the global cultural clients’ hair feels better afterward because It works as a cutting lotion to prep the hair phenomenon of the pompadour. With the treatment bestows revived strands, before all styling techniques as well as for pomade, the pompadour style became a enhances natural texture and allows body evening out porosity on color-treated and symbol of individuality—a way to slick your and shape.” relaxed hair.” hair back and say, ‘Let’s do it my way.’” COURTESY OF MANUFACTURERS; MACKENZIE: SARAH FOSTER MACKENZIE: OF MANUFACTURERS; COURTESY

48 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019 AUGUST 2019

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL PLUS unveils the new tbh - true FRESH RELEASES: beautiful honest line the hottest new hues ACHIEVE A-LIST SHADES with top celebrity formulas

cover look |

True Hue LIZ HAVEN TAPS SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL’S TBH - TRUE BEAUTIFUL HONEST TO DELIVER A RICH, NATURAL-LOOKING RESULT. —AO

“Nature inspires every color I create, including this one,” Liz Haven (@lizhaven) says of this warm auburn hue, created exclusively for Beauty Launchpad. “The questions I fi nd myself asking as I work are, ‘Where would the sun naturally lighten the client’s hair,’ ‘Where would the depth naturally live if she were wearing her hair this way or that way, in a ponytail, all down, etc.’” Indeed, the model’s rich shade looks nature- borne, thanks to Haven’s skilled artistry and the assist of the latest color launch from Schwarzkopf Professional, tbh - true beautiful honest. “I wanted her hair to look like virgin hair that has been kissed by the sun; I tried to mimic that concept in my color placement,” Haven explains. “This technique requires a guideline as far as the placement goes, but it’s defi nitely not one-size-fi ts-all! To truly capture this look, artists need to continuously ask themselves why they’re placing the light where they’re placing it … why they’re maintaining the depth where they’re choosing to keep it. These questions will organically shape the placement to cater to each guest.” The end result, Haven assures, will Formulated to create multidimensional permanent color with authentic-looking results, tbh - true be a bespoke creation wherein it beautiful honest consists of 26 shades across three distinct color families (Natural, Cool and Warm) to ignite colorists’ creativity, and are imbued with naturally derived ingredients such as shea butter and appears that the sun is casting its

COLORIST: LIZ HAVEN O’NEILL; STYLIST: LUIS LOPEZ; PHOTOGRAPHER: ARMANDO SANCHEZ; MAKEUP: JOLEEN RIZZO; LUIS LOPEZ; PHOTOGRAPHER: ARMANDO SANCHEZ; MAKEUP: JOLEEN RIZZO; O’NEILL; STYLIST: LIZ HAVEN COLORIST: PROFESSIONAL SHERAH JONES; MODEL: MICALA KUMMER; PRODUCTS: COURTESY OF SCHWARZKOPF WARDROBE: argan and macadamia oils. (@schwarzkopfusa) light across varying strands.

beautylaunchpad.com | AUGUST 2019 | The Colorist 51 SAFE DEPOSIT Harnessing the brand’s tried-and-true hair mender, argan oil, these pigment-depositing masks work to repair while tamping down frizz, and allow for commitment-free color experimentation. Available in seven shades. (Shown: Hibiscus) Moroccanoil Color Depositing Mask @moroccanoilpro tip sh eet tip WHAT’S NEW. METALLIC WHAT’S HOT. WHAT WORKS. ILLUMINATION Blending ultra-refl ective shine with extreme depth and coverage, three new metallic shades, Cool Bronze Elumenated Pearl Beige, Cool Copper Elumenated Pink and Steel Violet Elumenated Pink, join the brand’s Topchic and Colorance lines. (Shown: Cool Reds and Cool Blondes) Goldwell @Elumenation Metallics @goldwellus

BE GONE, BRASS! Working to banish brass, these WHEN A DAB WILL DO YA color savers tap quinoa extract When all you need is a smidge of formula, to help fortify tresses as the these mini bottles do the job, housing 2oz. formula leaves blonde, gray and liquids and featuring color-coded caps white locks brighter. Framesi Color that make identifying contents a breeze. Lover Dynamic Blonde Shampoo, Available in packs of three. Product Club Conditioner and Serum Mini Applicator Bottles @productclub @framesiusa COURTESY OF MANUFACTURERS

52 The Colorist | AUGUST 2019 | beautylaunchpad.com

| tip sh eet

BLONDE INTERVENTION This three-part in-salon system revives and fortifi es towheads with a clarifying shampoo (in back bar and take-home sizes) that brightens blondes by removing dust, pollution, product residue, and hard water minerals;minerals; a Detoxifying Shot that, when mixed with thehe BLONDME Keratin Restore Bonding Masask foror All Blondes, further reinforces removaemoval of dulling debris; and a Bi-Phase BoBonding & Protecting Spray that shields agagainst environmental aggressors that cause yellowing. Schwarzkopf PrProfessional BLONDME Detoxifying System @s@schwarzkopfusa NEUTRAL TERRITORY The newest launch from everyone’s #hairbestie (aka Guy Tang!) consists of 10 super cool and ashy shades that control warmth and help neutralize unwanted red and brassy tones. #mydentity @Guy_Tang Shadow Ash SOLID START Collection @guytang_mydentity Providing a healthy starting point, this pigment-depositing shampoo amps up clarity as it delivers antioxidant-rich fi g oil to resurface CLEANSED + COLORED roughed-up cuticles Simultaneously ridding hair of dirt and oil, and orchid extract these unique dry shampoos use quinoa to protect and fortify extract and charcoal powder to detoxify— weakened tresses. plus, a temporary hue washes out in only Biolage ColorLast Purple one shampoo. Available in Rose Gold, Shampoo @biolage Purple, Platinum, and Charcoal. Keracolor Color Me Clean Dry Shampoo @keracolorhair GLOSSED CAUSE Featuring marine extracts and oleic acid for maximum NEED A LIFT? softness and shine, three new Ideal for both on- and off-scalp glosses work to neutralize or lightening, this blue-tone powder enhance tones of prelightened lifts hair up to nine levels. Zotos hair. (Shown: Beige Blue Gloss Professional AGEbeautiful Ultra Bond Toner) Rusk Deepshine Gloss Demi Powder Lightener @zotosprofessional Permanent Color @ruskhaircare COURTESY OF MANUFACTURERS

54 The Colorist | AUGUST 2019 | beautylaunchpad.com

Be An BEFORE Unbreakable Blonde

THE NEW Zotos Professional AGEbeautiful Ultra Bond lightener range protects and strengthens hair to minimize breakage while lifting, highlighting and coloring. Here, colorist Elle Kinney shares how she used the line to achieve this striking blonde. *Combing breakage on damaged hair with Ultra Bond ™ Cleanse and Condition/Deep Treatment.

LIGHTENING TIP: A double process (or “bleach STEP 1: Apply AGEbeautiful Ultra and tone”) gets its name from GET THE LOOK Bond Powder Lightener+ with Ultra the two-step process. The toning Natural Base Level: 6 to 7/Fine Hair Bond 20-vol. Crème Developer to step is essential for achieving the existing natural hair only—half an desired platinum color. Pre-Existing Color: Inch of inch off the scalp through the mid- new regrowth and heavy highlights TONING lengths. Keep lightener off of the with natural base color throughout STEP 3: Apply equal parts scalp and previously highlighted AGEbeautiful Topcoat Toner Pearl Target Level: Platinum hair to avoid breakage. Blonde and AGEbeautiful 10-vol. TIP: When doing a double- Heat Used: None Crème Developer. Process until process blonde, apply a ribbon of underlying warmth has been Timing: 2½ hours cotton to the root of each section neutralized. Leave on hair for up of hair to ensure that the sections to 45 minutes. TIP: Choose your remain clean and protected as you toner based on any underlying DAILY MAINTENANCE work. For best results, use Ultra Bond pigment in the hair. Incorporate Cleanse + Condition/ STEP 2: Process hair until it reaches blue into your formula to counteract Deep Treatment between a yellow/orange color and then apply any orange tones and add both lightening, highlighting or color Ultra Bond Powder Lightener+ with violet and blue to counteract applications to keep hair looking Ultra Bond 20-vol. Crème Developer yellow-orange tones for a cool healthy and youthful. to the roots. Watch closely to ensure result. color lifts evenly.

AGEBEAUTIFUL ULTRA BOND DISCOVER THE FULL LINE! ALSO AVAILABLE IN POWDER LIGHTENER+ CRÈME LIGHTENER+, HYPER LIFTS, DEVELOPERS, In Blue-Tone Powder AND HAIRCARE.

COLORIST: ELLE KINNEY; STYLIST: ANTONIO DIAZ; PHOTOGRAPHER: EREZ SABAG; WARDROBE STYLIST: AMIT STYLIST: WARDROBE EREZ SABAG; DIAZ; PHOTOGRAPHER: ANTONIO STYLIST: ELLE KINNEY; COLORIST: PROFESSIONAL OF ZOTOS COURTESY BILLINGTON; MAKEUP: GEORGINA GAJWANI; Follow @zotosprofessional #AGEbeautiful CELEBRITY COLORISTS GIVE YOU THE SCOOP ON THEIR STAR-WORTHY FORMULAS SO YOU TOO CAN MAKE YOUR CLIENT LOOK LIKE A MEMBER OF THE Star A-LIST.

Brightby ALYSON OSTERMAN-KERR

THE COLORISTS

TRACEY CUNNINGHAM SONYA DOVE NIKKI LEE

RONA O’CONNOR GEORGE PAPANIKOLAS MARIE ROBINSON COURTESY OF ARTISTS

58 The Colorist | AUGUST 2019 | beautylaunchpad.com

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Perfect Partnership PROS SHARE THE BENEFITS OF PARTNERING WITH R+CO IN THEIR SALON.

Å R+CO IS DEDICATED TO ELEVATING THE STYLIST COMMUNITY. Th e brand, founded by industry-leading stylists Howard McLaren, Th om Priano and Garren, features 100-percent vegan plus gluten-, paraben- and sulfate-free formulas that deliver optimum performance behind the chair while meeting the demands of today’s discerning clients. Salons that partner with R+Co receive a full line of stylist station products and complimentary back bar supplies with their opening order—these rewards continue to build via a point accrual system. As soon as the fi rst order is placed the brand is on call, with representatives from the corporate offi ce and within the local area available to assist in maintaining profi tability. R+Co stylists are also encouraged to take advantage of education classes, which are off ered consistently throughout the year. To learn fi rst-hand about the benefi ts of partnering with R+Co for your salon, Beauty Launchpad checked in with two salon owners to hear about their motivation for carrying R+Co products, and how this has contributed to their overall success.

DEEP ROOTS SALON Beauty Launchpad: Why did you choose to carry R+Co? Melanie Packer and Haven Tibbetts: R+Co has a modern feel and eye- catching packaging that fi ts well with our image. We trust R+Co products to meet our quality and performance expectations. BLP: What are the benefi ts of partnering with the brand? MP AND HT: R+Co does a great job educating its clients and offering support through product knowledge as well as cutting/styling courses. We also enjoy the option of using points we’ve earned toward education or product. BLP: What makes R+Co unique? MP AND HT: Our location [Austin, Texas] is a city where people value safe, natural and quality ingredients in their products. Our clients Haven Tibbetts and Melanie appreciate that R+Co is formulated without Packer, owners of Deep Roots parabens or sulfates and is vegan, cruelty-free, Salon in Austin, Texas gluten-free, and color-safe. BLP: How do customers respond to the products? MP AND HT: The products smell great and transition well from the chair to at-home use, and our clients like the variety of options for styling ddiifferent hair types and needs. BBLLP: How has the partnership helped your bbuusiness? MMPP AND HT: New clients seek us out for being an R+Co salon. In addition, R+Co offers cutting and educational courses to help keep our stylists current with the latest trends and techniques. BBLPLP: What would you say to a salon owner who iiss unsure of what product line to carry? MMPP AND HT: Identify what your clients want while ccoonsidering costs. R+Co is sold at a great price point, easily transitions to at-home use, and uses quality ingredients—all in attractive packaging. It’s a Deep Roots Salon great fi t for any high-end salon! OF R+CO COURTESY Melanie Guzzo, owner of Virtue Salon in Columbus, Ohio

Guzzo at work in Virtue Salon

Virtue Salon

VIRTUE SALON Beauty Launchpad: Why did you we purchase and can redeem the The products each have a unique choose to carry R+Co? NFR points at any time. As a midsize name, packaging and purpose, which Melanie Guzzo: We’re a 100-percent salon, we consistently take advantage our clients love—and they’re obsessed vegan salon—once we caught word of the points to replenish our back bar. with the way the products smell. that R+Co was reformulating to make We never have to wait until the quarter BLP: How has the partnership its line fully vegan by 2019, we were ends to take advantage of our loyalty helped your business? ready to jump in with both feet. points or fi gure out where to store MG: R+Co is easily the most exciting R+Co’s artistry in packaging and excess product. The online ordering brand we’ve ever partnered with. We overall branding always attracted us; platform is also exciting and easy haven’t even tried to push the line we care a lot about the atmosphere to use. Last but not least, the brand because there’s no need; it fl ies off the and vibe of our space and wanted to leaders are extremely inspiring and shelves. We’ve had our best year in carry the line because it matched us we appreciate their commitment to retail sales to date simply because the so well. making and sharing art. products work for our people. BLP: What are the benefi ts of BLP: What makes R+Co unique? BLP: What would you say to a partnering with the brand? MG: The products themselves are salon owner who is unsure of what MG: R+Co constantly innovates and extremely versatile (they work well product line to carry? keeps us in the loop on everything— on wet or dry hair). R+Co provides MG: My advice is to fi nd a product we hear about products before informative videos for each product line that is obviously innovating. they launch! We’ve had amazing so you can learn about their specifi c Innovation is exciting for hairdressers, classes and inspiration opportunities uses. In my opinion, the fact that and people want to be part of the next since we joined with R+Co—even consumers are aware of the brand is big thing—which R+Co defi nitely is. experiencing education with Douglas also a unique selling point. R+Co’s The products do what they say and McCoy and Howard McLaren. R+Co Instagram presence is excellent, are user-friendly in every way. When does an excellent job marketing to which makes our team more excited we were in the beginning stages of the consumer; our guests recognize to be part of the brand’s mission. trying out the line, the people at R+Co the products and are eager to try BLP: How do clients respond to the were extremely generous. We’ve them out. Plus, the rewards system products? never once had to pay out of pocket for “NFR” (not for resale) products is MG: Honestly, the products sell for back bar, which is very helpful for honestly an incredible perk of carrying themselves. Clients always say, “Oh! any salon business; R+Co offers great R+Co. We earn points based on what You carry this line? I’ve seen it before!” support!

To become an R+Co partner visit randco.com/join or call 855.RANDCO.5. PORTFOLIO

ALL HER STRENGTH “This look is all about strength and the diversity of hair,” notes Tracey Devine- Smith. “I played with balancing blunt edges and spontaneous lines. I wanted to show that sharp and strong hair doesn’t have to be about straight lines! You can add so much texture and movement by varying the length of sections within the hair and keeping the edges crisp. I added lift to the style with ASP Kitoko ARTE Texture Perfect Soft Clay.” TEXTURE THE LATEST ENDEAVOR FROM AFFINAGE SALON PROFESSIONAL IS AN EXPLORATION IN VARYING TEXTURES. —ALYSON OSTERMAN-KERR

68 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019 NEW HEIGHTS “This is a perfect gravity-defying look,” notes Devine-Smith. “ASP Kitoko ARTE Crystal Clear Sculpting Wax was integral in creating the style as it helped to add lift and soft texture without clumping the hair together. This look is focused on controlled movement. The hair appears free and natural, but at the same time, every piece is exactly where it should be.”

Twilight Texture, by Tracey Devine-Smith for Affi nage Salon Professional (@affi nageamerica), is a collection of varying looks that shine the spotlight on organic-looking (yet fi ne-tuned!) fi nishes on diverse hair types. “Since the focus of this shoot was on the styling, we wanted to showcase the looks in black and white to really emphasize that element,” says Devine-Smith. “It was defi nitely a different experience for our team, as we still had to color the hair, but get the balance of shades and tones just right so that they would read well in black and white and complement the models’ textured looks. We put in long hours to execute this collection, but seeing the fi nal results

HAIR: TRACEY DEVINE-SMITH FOR AFFINAGE SALON PROFESSIONAL; STYLING: DESIREE LEDERER; MAKEUP: MADDIE AUSTIN; STYLING: PROFESSIONAL; DESIREE LEDERER; MAKEUP: MADDIE AUSTIN; SALON AFFINAGE DEVINE-SMITH FOR HAIR: TRACEY PROFESSIONAL SALON ASP AFFINAGE RICHARD MILES; PRODUCTS: PHOTOGRAPHY: made the work worth it!”

AUGUST 2019 beautylaunchpad.com 69 PORTFOLIO

TAP INTO TEXTURE “Our team really transformed this model’s hair,” enthuses Devine-Smith. “Our aim for this look was to take volume to the next level. To achieve this, I crimped small sections of hair, making sure that the crimping wasn’t perfectly in line in order to stop the waves from sitting within each other; I wanted them to sit irregularly to enhance texture and depth. I added a lot of volume to the roots with ASP Kitoko ARTE Style Extend Dry Shampoo, which also bestowed a matte ﬁ nish.”

70 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019 THE CALI-FLY D DHH1 HEAD HUGGER D200 VENT BRUSH 1 7

FROM THE C U

PAUL STAFFORD COLLECTION R L

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Modern with just the right amount of depth at the M E

roots, melting out to give a beautiful blonde ﬁ nish. R

Explore our full range at denmanbrushus.com O M B PORTFOLIO

MAKE WAVES “For this look, I wanted to portray that texture could be soft and delicate,” says Devine-Smith. “The model had incredible long hair, so I focused on enhancing the volume with a mixture of waves and curls. Along the roots and upper sections, I kept the style loose and very free-ﬂ owing with strong bountiful curls toward the ends.”

72 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019 NOVEMBER 9-12, 2019

PHILLIP WILSON SUE PEMBERTON NICHOLAS FRENCH

RENDEZVOUS WITH BRITISH HAIR ROYALTY IN LUXURIOUS PALM SPRINGS AT THIS EXCLUSIVE, THREE DAY INTENSIVE LEARNING EXPERIENCE.

Spend 3 glorious days in two mid-century modern masterpiece homes in beautiful Palm Springs, California. Take a deep dive into the creative brains of three of the most talented, creative and dynamic artists to jump the pond and work in the U.S. Nicholas French, Sue Pemberton and Phillip Wilson. Never before has there been so much talent gathered in the same place at the same time!

FOR DETAILS AND REGISTRATION: www.wilsonhaircollective.com/thebritishinvasion Beyond Branding

Basicsby Francesca Moisin

Top inﬂ uencerscreate a sharewinning advice brand. on how to

Any stylist with a smartphone and a head of hair can snap a photo and launch an Instagram account. Posting is that simple—but branding is an altogether diﬀ erent beast. Th ose online gurus we call inﬂ uencers are successful precisely for one reason: Th ey cracked the branding formula. Success often followed bouts of failure, yet no online authority with established credibility grew their subscriber count or client base by accident. Because few industries rely on social media more than beauty, we tapped top influencers for their tried- and-true tips on how to create a winning personal brand, and stay on message while promoting it. GETTY IMAGES

74 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019 WHAT IS A BRAND? “Many people mistakenly think a brand is a logo, or a name written in cool font or vibrant colors compiled together, but those are just elements that comprise a larger picture,” says Jamie Dana (@jamiedanahairstylist), educator and owner of Pin and Plait Studio in Lake Forest, California. “Th e Jamie Dana way you speak, the types of images you post, how you show up on videos or connect with your audience—these are the core facets of a successful brand.” WHY YOU SHOULD CARE On a deeper level, branding Here’s the truth: We’re oversaturated means determining who you with online infl uencers. Th e world are as a hairdresser or artist, and doesn’t need just another beauty then compressing those disparate blogger, which is why it’s more components into a single unifi ed essential than ever to identify presence that can stand out in and highlight those qualities that the sea of social media. “From make you a braid buff or master of styling to color to signature #unicornhairdontcare. “In other looks, consistency is key,” says words, when you’re speaking to Larisa Love (@larisadoll), Joico everyone, you speak to no one,” brand ambassador and owner of Sea explains. Th ink quality over Larisa Love Salon in Studio City, volume. “Th e niche you occupy in California. real life is the same one you want to A social media brand is share online,” agrees Elizabeth Faye a powerful connection tool. (@heyelizabethfaye), educator and “Platforms can simultaneously owner of Elizabeth Faye Salon in reach existing consumers, ideal Saint George, Utah. “You don’t have prospective clientele and members to be good at everything, just one or of your working teams,” says two things.” Marketing strategies, Jamie Sea (@prettylittleombre), which may loom as overwhelming educator and owner of SALT salon tasks, suddenly feel simple when the in Cheshire, Connecticut. “If your pivot point becomes a pro’s proven brand has a strong heartbeat, it skill set. From tutorials to tags will energetically attract the right to testimonials, all elements of a people.” personal brand should circle back to COURTESY OF JAMIE DANA; COURTESY OF LARISA LOVE COURTESY DANA; OF JAMIE COURTESY the distinguishing factor that makes each stylist unique. “I screwed it up a lot,” laughs Faye. “I had to self- refl ect, then rebrand many times, because I’d get inspired by other people’s pages or designs rather than focusing on what fi lls me with joy.”

Larisa Love

AUGUST 2019 beautylaunchpad.com 75 SOCIAL MEDIA BRANDING TIPS

FIND YOUR AUDIENCE Dana started by inventing her dream client. She considered a wide variety of qualities, such as her consumer’s physical attributes, preferred hobbies and pastimes, and top life and beauty challenges. Th en the pro dove into deeper detail: Where does she shop? What’s her favorite cocktail? “I Jamie Sea created this person I speak with and listen to, and even gave her a name, which is ‘Brynn,’” says Dana. Every action she now takes on social media—photos, captions, Stories—is in consideration of how GET PERSONAL Brynn, the myopic representation A cool logo alone can’t make a brand of Dana’s vast audience, will because viewing it evokes little emotion. At respond. Th at’s enabled her, the the end of the day, people use social media stylist, to form deeper, more because they want to feel something— meaningful connections within connected, validated and elevated. “My page the abstract blogosphere. Here’s initially started with transformative hair the ironic side note: A real woman photos,” says Sea. “But as time went on, I named Brynn, who looked realized I needed to disclose more of myself identical to the conjured avatar, did and what I believe in order to convey the start following Dana shortly after happiness I feel when creating magic behind the completion of that exercise. the chair.” A random professional posting “I used to wonder if I manifested before-and-after imagery is less accessible her,” laughs the pro. than a real stylist with a story. “It can feel uncomfortable or even narcissistic to stand in front of a camera, but your audience can’t bond with you unless they get to know you,” says Dana. Get past any initial “ick factor”—you’re not being braggadocious!— and flip the lens to show up on Instagram Stories or Facebook Live. At minimum, each profi le must include a headshot, and one out of every 10 posts should include a more Elizabeth personalized snapshot that exposes some Faye aspect of the stylist’s life, from work reveals to glimpses of time spent servicing other parts of the community. Whether serious or off beat, here’s the chance to take a chance. “Th e point is to reveal the stylist behind the curtain, because ‘the Great and Powerful Oz’ is not an engaging fi gure,” Dana explains. COURTESY OF JAMIE SEA; COURTESY OF ELIZABETH FAYE SEA; COURTESY OF JAMIE COURTESY

76 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019 TEACH IT FORWARD Only post great content—that goes without saying. PRACTICE TACTICAL TAGGING “If the background is busy, blurry or messy, scrap that shot,” says Love. “Edit for clean, visually compelling Hashtags are essential tools for helping users work.” Th en, think beyond still images. Strong easily discover messaging and content, which brands educate their followers via short tutorials, is precisely what makes them so ubiquitous. how-to instruction videos or inviting product demos. “Use hashtags,” urges Love. “More importantly, Overstimulated millennials and Gen Z viewers generate a memorable personal hashtag that’s won’t stick around for long-form content, so keep on-brand for your business, so that with a the lessons bite-size. “Education content always single click anyone can access all your images hits well,” says Love. Apart from informing existing and work.” Not all hashtags are created equal, clients, quick video guidance on how to blow-dry so get imaginative with lettering. Th ink bangs or correctly use dry shampoo can help attract #wakeupandmakeup or #curlsforthegirls, as potential new ones. “A stylist giving away valuable free opposed to their less-catchy counterparts. information will appeal to customers who are eager Companies like Sprout Social provide media- to discover what more they might learn when actually management software plus analytics tools to sitting in that chair,” says Dana. help brands identify hashtags and platforms that Th is year, the pendulum swung back to earlier can trigger greatest growth. days of Instagram, when photos and videos were less perfectly curated. Th at means you can look undone online. “I turn up without makeup or ﬁ lters, because I’m a real human and I know my audience likes to REVISE YOUR DEFINITION know that,” Dana continues. Instagram Live, on “Don’t think of your followers as customers,” the other hand, has become more useful thanks to suggests Faye. “Rather, tweak that a modern revamp that now lets participants save characterization so that clients become members and repurpose videos to IGTV. (Videos previously of your community.” Each stylist is uniquely expired after 24 hours.) “Posting videos allows positioned as an expert in her tribe. When viewers to stay on your page longer, meaning the brands evolve through the natural process of algorithm changes and your content gets shown expansion, a stylist might lose customers—but more on their feeds,” says Love. YouTube is a community members remain loyal. “I’ve grown powerful channel for sharing tips and techniques, from working behind the chair to being an though it may require a larger time investment independent instructor to owning a salon to than Instagram, Snapchat or Facebook. Says Dana, heading an education company, yet through “I have a video editor and help behind the scenes those many shifting phases I’ve continued because of the extra eﬀ ort needed to craft content.” serving the same people,” says Faye. “Your community will want to help you and tell others about you.”

What Not To Do You’re well on your way to creating a personal brand, but with all exercises in brand-building, there are pitfalls that might not be easy to spot. Our pros share their branding no-nos to avoid.

“Don’t only post hair,” says Sea. “My with other artists.” Think: images “Don’t highlight professional work COPE Method workshops relay the shot by a photographer in exchange that goes off-brand,” says Dana. “If importance of evoking emotion, not for a free makeover. This win-win you don’t like doing unicorn hair, just putting up good work.” is collaborative and helps build don’t post it—even if you think your community. vivid color will get a lot of likes.” “Don’t think you need a large Attract the audience you hope to investment to launch a brand,” says “Don’t copy other artists,” says Love. serve. Faye. “Consider trading services “Be original and authentic.”

AUGUST 2019 beautylaunchpad.com 77 THICKTh r o u g h THINand

IN HONOR OF HAIR LOSS AWARENESS MONTH, LEARN THE SCIENCE BEHIND THINNING TRESSES, BROWS AND LASHES—AND HOW TO COMBAT AND PREVENT THEM WITH THICKNESS- PROMOTING TIPS, TRICKS AND PRODUCTS.

by TRACY MORIN GETTY IMAGES

78 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019 Jim Markham, founder and CEO of ColorProof Color Care Authority, notes that, according to the American Academy of Dermatology, 40 percent of American women will experience thinning hair at some point in their lives. But the causes—and therefore prevention and treatment techniques—can vary greatly. Here, we check in with leading haircare, lash and brow experts to determine how beauty pros can best proceed when faced with clients who crave a dose of added fullness.

ROOT CAUSES medications for blood pressure, diabetes, Heather Ka’anoi, artistic director for John heart disease, or acne. Paul Mitchell Systems, notes that aging, NUTRITION AND DIET: High stress, hormonal imbalance, excessive consumption of animal fats, rapid styling, inadequate nutrition, pregnancy, weight loss and liquid protein diets can an unhealthy scalp, heredity, breakage, result in a lack of amino acids, biotin, dramatic weight loss, hypothyroidism, iron, protein, and zinc—all essential for or an iron defi ciency can cause hair loss. healthy-looking hair. To identify the range of causes, Syrenthia With these main culprits in mind, Quinones, brand education manager experts can break down how each aff ects for Nioxin, sums them up in six general the hair. Amir Yazdan M.D., founder categories. of GroMD, explains that hormonal GENETICS: A family predisposition to concerns, generally caused by elevated thinning hair involves natural, age- levels of DHT or menopause, create an related hormonal changes caused by the imbalance of estrogen and progesterone, conversion of testosterone into the toxin while conditions like polycystic ovarian dihydrotestosterone (DHT), which can syndrome (which can increase testosterone be inherited from a mother or father. levels) or a thyroid imbalance may be to STRESS AND TRAUMA: Stress can blame. April Cox, national trainer for produce increased levels of testosterone, Eufora, adds that everyone has testosterone which converts to DHT, interrupting the in their bodies, as well as the enzyme hair growth cycle. Stress also constricts 5-alpha reductase—but when testosterone the blood supply through the capillaries, and 5-alpha reductase couple together, restricting oxygen, nutrient uptake and that forms DHT, creating havoc on scalps, vitamins to the follicle. thinning the hair bulb and, in turn, HEALTH: Underlying issues may creating thin hair and lock loss. include a malfunction of the hormone- Markham remarks that at various times producing thyroid or the natural changes of life, the capability of hair follicle stem women experience after pregnancy and cells decreases, inhibiting the ability to menopause. regenerate the cells responsible for new ENVIRONMENTAL: Air and water growth. Rising levels of DHT cause follicles pollutants, chlorine, metals, and minerals to shrink and produce thin, atrophied left in the hair and on the scalp—as well hair (and eventually stop producing new as pseudo-estrogens and toxins from hair altogether). Stem cells, which contain within our bodies—can contribute to the chemical messengers responsible for thinning. hair production, increasingly fail as we MEDICATION: Hair follicles are extremely age, and the follicle is unable to generate sensitive to changes in the body—e.g. a new, healthy growth phase—resulting hormonal therapies like birth control, in aging scalp tissue, thinning hair and steroids, specifi c chemotherapies, and graying. “Th ere’s also poor microcirculation

AUGUST 2019 beautylaunchpad.com 79 and buildup. A poor blood supply results in sluggish cell turnover, leading to the buildup of sebum and dead skin cells that plug the follicle, preventing hair growth,” Markham notes. “Finally, there’s the failure of new growth to anchor: As tissue repair mechanisms fail, the new, weakened hair ANY TYPE OF is unable to anchor properly and begins to TRAUMATIC fall out.” To complicate matters further, Michelle EVENT CAN ALSO Blaisure, product development director DISRUPT THE HAIR for Bosley Professional Strength, reports CYCLE, LEADING TO that hair loss is often multifactorial; your SUDDEN EXCESSIVE client could have a myriad of causes at play, including genetics. “About 20 percent of SHEDDING.” —MICHELLE BLAISURE women thin due to an inherited condition known as female pattern hair loss—the same inherited predisposition (androgenetic and may notice it in their mid-30s and 40s, time “steals” hormones and nutrients the alopecia) that causes up to 66 percent of when perimenopause starts.” Additionally, body needs to function well, leading to men to lose their hair by age 60,” Blaisure aging causes the hair growth cycles to slow, imbalance and defi ciencies. “Since we don’t details. “Th is genetic predisposition causes leading to a higher percentage of hair staying need hair to live, hair is last in line to get the follicle in the crown and hairline to in the resting cycle—which, over time, leads what it needs to grow in a healthy manner,” be sensitive to DHT, which, over time, to density and diameter changes: less hair, Blaisure explains. “Any type of traumatic shortens the hair life cycle, producing fi ner texture alterations, and weaker, drier, frizzier event can also disrupt the hair cycle, leading and weaker tresses, and can lead to changes locks as hair loses its lipid layer. to sudden excessive shedding (typically in density. Men can go completely bald, Stress, a more common agent for happening about three months after the often starting in their late teens or early 20s, hair loss in women, causes an increase in event), but this will usually self-correct while women experience diff used thinning cortisol (the stress hormone), which over after a few months.” Additional culprits,

THINNING TLC Whether at home or in the salon, certain measures can help care for hair that’s thinning so the problem doesn’t worsen. Syrenthia Quinones shares 10 tips you can give your clients.

1| Wash regularly to help rid the hair and scalp of buildup and causes stress along the hairline, contributing to breakage. from products and oils. Use a cleanser and conditioner that 7| A three-minute scalp massage helps increase blood moisturize both the hair and scalp. circulation to the roots and thereby carry nutrients to the scalp. 2 | Towel-dry gently. Use as little force as possible when drying 8| Hair growth begins inside the body, so maintain a proper diet to help reduce breakage and tangles. and lifestyle. Avoid smoking and heavy alcohol consumption. Eat 3| Dry with medium heat; high heat can cause signifi cant nutrients and foods important for hair growth. breakage and damage. Or let hair dry naturally! 9| For long hair, styling in a braid before sleeping helps reduce 4| Invest in a boar bristle brush. Softer bristles are gentler on breakage. the scalp and strands; the density of the bristles spreads out 10| Condition regularly—it’s essential for nourishing strands pressure more evenly. and makes them stronger and more resistant to damage. Use 5| Brush the ends fi rst. Avoid using too much force, and gently an occasional deep-conditioning mask or in-salon treatment for work toward the roots to avoid tangles and breakage. added benefi ts. 6| Wear a loose ponytail. Pulling hair too tight strains the roots GETTY IMAGES

80 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019 she adds, can be chemical processes (think culprits. “Medications such as hormone relaxers and bleach) if they cause damage replacement and birth control pills, steroids THE HAIR LOSS PLAN to the scalp, leading to infl ammation, and, of course, chemotherapy, may cause breakage and hair loss; this can even extend hair loss, but diff erently in diff erent clients,” AND PRODUCTS TO to overuse of dry shampoo. adds Blaisure. Side eff ects of medications TREAT REACTIONAL Health states or conditions also play a or chemotherapy treatments can generally THINNING WILL BE role: During pregnancy, hormone levels be reversed if treated early, Dr. Yazdan NEEDED TEMPORARILY, are high, but after childbirth, hormones explains, and notes that trauma, such as return to their normal range—so all traction alopecia, accidents, surgeries, etc., WHEREAS A of the hair that didn’t fall out during can lead to short-term loss that can pass GENETICS-RELATED pregnancy suddenly sheds at once. “Th is over time. Furthermore, Blaisure says, HAIR LOSS PLAN also starts at about three months and studies show that defi ciencies in certain AND PRODUCTS usually self-corrects over time,” Blaisure nutrients—namely vitamins C, D and notes. “Alternatively, many autoimmune B12, and minerals such as iron, zinc and WOULD INVOLVE A disorders can cause hair shedding, and omega-3 fatty acids—may contribute to LIFETIME CHANGE IN women seem to be more prone to hair loss. And, as hair is part of the skin HER OVERALL HAIR these conditions.” Dr. Yazdan points to structure, when the scalp receives sun REGIMEN.” —BRIDGETTE HILL autoimmune conditions—a classifi cation damage, this injury can also impair the of conditions wherein the body attacks follicle. itself, which can include destroying the hair Finally, according to Bridgette Hill, aka cause is reactional or genetic. “Th inning follicles—such as alopecia areata, frontal “Th e Scalp Th erapist,” the location of the around the hairline generally indicates fi brosing alopecia and many more—as thinning can assist with determining if the a genetic predisposition, while allover thinning with no defi nitive bald patches typically points to reactional thinning,” Hill TECH SAVVY details. “Th e hair loss plan and products to treat reactional thinning will be needed New formulas and gadgets temporarily, whereas a genetics-related hair feature cutting-edge technology loss plan and products would involve a lifetime change in her overall hair regimen.” to tackle thinning hair. PREVENTATIVE MEASURES According to Markham, the best defense against hair loss is preventative care. “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure—you wouldn’t wait for your teeth to fall out before you start brushing,” he says. “Just like using skincare products early on Created by NASA scientist Tamim HairMax, a pioneer in laser hair growth, helps prevent wrinkles, treating your scalp Hamid, Theradome EVO LH40 recently launched HairMax for den•si•ty home-use laser helmet contains 40 that incorporates a targeted delivery system, and hair, while you still have it, will help proprietary lasers that deliver at 680 a proprietary NRG8-pLEXTM formula and stave off hair loss.” His advice: Educate nanometers “the optimal wavelength a light-activated ingredient to help protect your clients on how to care for their scalp for the deepest penetration of up to against biological aging and transform properly to deter future loss. 5 millimeters into the hair follicle,” thinning hair. Th e new system targets the However, Dr. Yazdan explains that according to the company. “It delivers scalp directly with various active ingredients maximum power by increasing blood to energize and nourish hair and scalp: prevention depends on what’s causing the fl ow and allowing the nutrients your adenosine triphosphate (ATP), apple stem hair loss. “For trauma or traction alopecia, hair needs to stop hair loss, thicken cell, reishi mushroom, caff eine, niacinamide remove whatever is causing pulling on the existing hair and promote new growth.” (vitamin B3), along with a custom zinc and follicles,” he advises. In the case of traction Th e helmet, featuring a built-in speaker amino complex. A unique targeted delivery alopecia, examine the client’s lifestyle with voice command to update the user system utilizes liposome technology to carry of its status, automatically turns off the active ingredients that help protect hair for common culprits—think ponytail when the treatment is completed. against biological aging and environmental holders, tight-fi tting hats, headbands, @theradome stress. @hairmax clips, hairstyles, and non-water-soluble

AUGUST 2019 beautylaunchpad.com 81 styling products with petrochemicals (e.g. THIN LINES petroleum-based gels and alcohol-based sprays) that clog the follicle and dry the Recommend these scalp-nourishing and hair-thickening scalp. “Repetitive points of tension or pressure on points throughout the hair products for those with stressed tresses. and scalp can lead to broken hair patches and thinning spots,” Hill says. “To combat traction alopecia, lubricate and moisturize more than normal if your client wears a ponytail or headband; a layer of moisture gives the hair fi bers more elasticity, so they’re less prone to breaking. Also advise that she avoids clipping or wrapping the hair with too much tension.” With medications that interfere with hair 5 growth, Dr. Yazdan notes that clients can 12 3 4 consult with their doctors on alternatives. “Autoimmune conditions require steroid and anti-infl ammatory injections, followed by close supervision from a doctor,” he says. “And hormonal causes are treated by lowering levels of DHT or balancing out hormones that aren’t within normal range.” If hair loss runs in the family, Blaisure advocates products that support healthy hair growth. “Minoxidil has been shown to be eff ective, especially for women, but 697 8 since there is no cure for genetically driven loss, this must be incorporated into daily 1Bosley Professional Strength with Cleanser Shampoo, Scalp Therapy routines to maintain results,” she explains. Follicle Energizer boasts stimulating Conditioner and Scalp & Hair Treatment. Her other tips for clients: Periodically use activators and keratin-strengthening @nioxin a scalp scrub to help stimulate and remove pentapeptides, increasing cellular energy and microcirculation in the scalp to support 6Rejuvenol Nioclinic Care is a synergistic cellular and product buildup from the healthy hair growth in areas of low density. regimen of products for fi ne and thinning scalp and hair. Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP) @bosleypro hair, combining gentle cleansing with scalp injections, administered by a licensed treatment and therapy products to improve professional, have also shown promise in 2ColorProof Color Care Authority the scalp’s environment and sustain visually younger and thicker hair. [Not all products helping to stimulate growth. BioRepair-8 Anti-Aging Scalp & Hair Therapy Kit is designed to prevent and shown] @rejuvenol Hill agrees that a multipronged approach combat thinning hair by working at the bio- is required for thinning hair. “Th e key to cellular level to stimulate, energize, nourish, 7Surface Awaken Scalp Elixir features prevention and/or minimizing hair loss: and restore the scalp. @colorproofhair sandalwood extract to stimulate the scalp, Incorporate scalp care and take action early,” speeding the delivery of D-biotin, vital 3 nutrients and essential microminerals to the she stresses. “Hair loss prevention must Eufora Thickening Regimen Kit assures 30 days to thicker, fuller hair with advanced cellular generation area of hair. address the cell, the surrounding tissue technology—including the exclusive ProAmino @surfacehairhealth and the blood—working internally and Cell Complex, which helps to nourish and externally.” For family history-related hair protect the scalp, stimulate the follicle, and 8Tea Tree Scalp Care Anti-Thinning loss, Hill recommends quality supplements, prevent follicular atrophy. Regimen—including Shampoo, Conditioner @euforainternational and Tonic—is a preventative system that as well as topical solutions that increase contains proprietary Regeniplex Botanical cellular turnover and keep the hair in its 4GroMD Hair Loss Shampoo & Blend to promote healthy hair and scalp. growing phase for longer periods of time. Conditioner tackles thinning hair with a @teatreehaircare But, she adds, one simple change to help proprietary blend of DHT blockers, plus combat hair loss is to create scalp care anti-infl ammatory ingredients to help 9Kenra Professional Platinum Thickening Mousse increases the routines by pretreating domes with oils that reverse thinning and revert the follicles to produce healthy hair again. @gro.md density of the hair shaft by up to 150% in aid in circulation—for example, orange addition to providing humidity defense. and lavender oils, which encourage cellular 5Nioxin System Kit 1 strengthens, @kenraprofessional

turnover. nourishes and bestows thicker-looking hair OF MANUFACTURERS COURTESY

82 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019 CONSULTATION KEYS EXTENSION LEARNING EXPERTS AGREE: The consultation is a must for thinning-hair clients. Th ough Cox admits that hair loss or The consultation is where you can “establish yourself as the expert, but thinning-hair clients often request know your limits,” says Syrenthia Quinones, brand education manager extensions or wigs, too-tight “solutions” for Nioxin. “Educate yourself on the topic. As the professional, it’s your can cause traction to the already stressed job (and duty) to identify and address any concerns you or your client hairline, while extensions may potentially may have, so don’t wait for your client to uncomfortably bring up the pull on the follicle, causing even more loss topic.” Here, pros offer top advice for broaching this sensitive subject—as and possible damage. “I try to evaluate for well as providing solutions. each guest the pros and cons, and have a conversation about which weft system is best for her particular hair type and Speak plainly. Impart your knowledge in a way she will understand. Ask need,” Cox says. “For instance, with a direct questions and discuss your observations. Sounding judgmental or guest who suff ers from trichotillomania fl ippant could shut down the dialogue right away. Active listening plays (pulling out her own hair), more long- a major part: Your client needs to know she is being heard, so repeat her term extension solutions and wigs provide concerns back to her so she knows you’re listening. Finally, the mirror is a great option.” for refl ections, not consultations. Instead, get on her level: Pull up a chair, Monique Hale, owner of Extension seated next to or in front of your client, to create a relaxed environment. Be Bar LA, believes that with proper mindful of your posture and body language; for example, folded arms can consultation and stylist education, send the message of a closed-off stance. Don’t rush the conversation. Th is is extensions can be suitable for about a sensitive topic for some, so it may take time for your client to open up; book 90 percent of clients. “But ask the yourself ample time for an uninterrupted consultation. Before you touch right questions,” she warns. “Why do your client’s hair or scalp, hear her concerns, build trust and then ask to they want them? Why is their hair perform a thorough hair/scalp analysis (going right into the analysis without thinning—are they on any medication; asking may put her on the defense and feel rushed).” —Syrenthia Quinones, have they had any surgery and been brand education manager, Nioxin under any anesthesia; or is it alopecia? If they’re the right candidate, extensions Asking the right questions is the key: ‘What are you enjoying about your change lives!” In cases of clients with hair?’ ‘What are your challenges?’ ‘Are you achieving your desired amount of traction alopecia, Hale recommends fullness and volume?’ ‘How has your scalp been?’ Th ese questions give you a hair vitamin—and does not apply the opportunity to help.” —Jackie Yochim, development, Surface; manager, extensions unless cleared by the client’s Visions Salon & Spa doctor. “But I have seen extensions over the course of six months make Be empathetic, respect your client’s privacy by being discreet, and be open to hair stronger, longer and healthier with any questions she may have. We teach our stylists to lead the conversation by proper installation and educating clients gently asking one of the following questions: ‘Have you noticed any changes to on how to take care of them at home,” your hair and scalp?’ ‘Does hair loss or thinning run in your family?’ ‘Your hair Hale adds. density does not seem as full as it did during your last visit; have you noticed Hill agrees that integrating extensions more shedding than usual?’” —Jim Markham, founder and CEO, ColorProof and wigs into a long-term haircare Color Care Authority plan can be done in a healthy way, and properly applied extensions can be an When recommending products based on specifi c thinning concerns, it’s excellent tool for transitioning into a important to suggest the products be applied to the entire hair and scalp to healthier haircare regimen. “All hair types address and prevent future hair loss.” —Heather Ka’anoi, artistic director, benefi t from investing in a quality pair John Paul Mitchell Systems of clip-in extensions to add temporary fullness and length,” Hill concludes. For new clients, creating a checklist that you can have them fi ll out can be an “But fi ner-hair clients should minimize easy way to gather information. Also, look at clients’ grooming practices. Do any technique that puts tension on they shampoo frequently or once a week? Do they want volume or just need to the individual strands of hair (such as slow the thinning? Some products need to be used when the clients shampoo, beading).” but others can be used daily on the scalp, even if they don’t shampoo—a Quinones believes that extensions great option if they need to protect their hairline or have just one area that and wigs are ideal for temporary is thin. However, if thinning is extreme, recommend they see a doctor or enhancement—if the client is willing to dermatologist.” —Michelle Blaisure, product development director, Bosley invest in maintenance to keep their scalp Professional Strength

AUGUST 2019 beautylaunchpad.com 83 EDUCATING YOUR CLIENTS NOT ONLY PRESERVES THE HEALTH OF THEIR HAIR AND SCALP, BUT PROTECTS YOUR WORK AND KEEPS THEM COMING BACK TO YOU!” —VICKI CASCIOLA and natural hair healthy. “With a variety Vicki Casciola, educator for Hairtalk, them coming back to you!” Casciola says. of extensions on the market (clip-in, notes that the client’s hair length and Kristen Colon, educator for bonded, tape-in, sew-in wefts, etc.), lifestyle are two of the most important Hotheads, believes that everyone each has a speciﬁ c maintenance regimen considerations for successful extensions is a good candidate for tape-in to ensure longevity, integrity and best results. “If your client is experiencing extensions, so long as they’re not results,” Quinones details. “Adhering to more extensive hair thinning/loss currently experiencing hair loss for these regimens is imperative. Wigs, with and the scalp is exposed, look for nongenetic reasons (such as medications both synthetic and natural hair options, options with maximum coverage and a or chemotherapy). For her clients, typically cover the entire head, creating comfortable, safe and semipermanent Colon takes before-and-after pictures, a barrier over the scalp and the natural solution,” Casciola advises. “Th e weight as well as a photo at each touch-up hair.” She recommends giving the scalp of the enhancement should be evenly appointment before reapplication so a chance to “breathe” by removing distributed around the head to relieve clients can see the continued growth, the wig, cleansing and moisturizing any tension stress in certain areas.” strength and protection of the natural the scalp and natural hair with Meanwhile, stylists can help clients hair’s integrity. “It also ensures that conditioner—all essential to maintain a prevent traction alopecia by showing there isn’t any damage happening,” healthy environment for hair and scalp. them proper styling and haircare, Colon adds. “I use single-sided tape And, to help combat traction alopecia, and how to avoid repetitive stress to with the use of a single extension piece advise clients to take breaks between the hair in any particular direction or around hairline areas so there isn’t too braiding services, and ensure styles aren’t area. “Educating your clients not only much weight in those ﬁ ner spots. It’s too tight (especially around the hairline preserves the health of their hair and all about customizing based on clients’ area, where locks are more fragile). scalp, but protects your work and keeps natural existing hair.” LAY IT ON THICK Fill out thinning hair safely with these enhancements.

Hairtalk Hairwear Smart Part provides a semipermanent hair enhancement solution for clients with severe hair loss in a customizable, easy-to-apply, tape- in format. @hairtalkusa

Hairdreams MICROLINES System Hotheads Hairwear offers top-of-the- easily adds volume for ﬁ ne and thinning head hair enhancement without shaving strands—even for clients with serious hair or bonding, secured between two Great Lengths USA Tapes Plus offer loss and bald spots—via high-grade, hand- tape tabs that provide nondamaging the appearance of natural hair growth at selected 100-percent real human hair, attachment sites that seamlessly secure the top of the adhesive—ideal for parted plus a gentle, nondamaging integration the piece to the client’s head. areas or for clients with very ﬁ ne hair.

process. @hairdreamsusa @hotheadshairextensions @greatlengthsusa OF MANUFACTURERS COURTESY

84 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019 AS WE AGE, BROWS AND LASHES CAN BECOME SPARSE, JUST LIKE THE HAIR ON OUR HEAD DOES.” —MICHELLE BLAISURE

LASH AND BROW LOSSES are too heavy and fall off , clients will What happens when hair loss or notice gaps and broken lashes, and they thinning aff ects the lashes and/or brows? end up blaming the technician. Or, Lynn La Palermo, owner of Occhi’ when using more adhesive to get heavier Lash & Brow Studio and Occhi’ Lash lashes to hold, the clients return and say Institute, explains that lash and brow they hurt.” In other words, direct the thinning can diff er from hair thinning, client; take into consideration what she but similarities exist. For example, lash/ wants, but know what the client’s lashes brow loss can also be caused by traction can handle. Educate the client and use alopecia—for example, longtime wearing encouragement—for example, say, “As of strip lashes or waterproof mascara, or your lashes get healthier, we can do more, tweezing brows thinly for so long that but we need your lashes in a more stable a fuller brow is no longer possible. “We place to give you fuller or longer looks.” try to determine the source: clients’ own Dr. Yazdan agrees that traction self-abuse, medications, illness, drastic alopecia aff ects brows via repeated weight loss, etc.,” Palermo explains. plucking, but can also be related to “For illness, if they’re in the recovery medication side eff ects. Blaisure adds cycle, we recommend a supplement (a that eyebrow and eyelash thinning can biotin complex) combined with a topical also occur with specifi c conditions like growth and conditioning serum to help alopecia areata and thyroid disorder. “As regrow brows or lashes.” we age, brows and lashes can become However, brow loss from ongoing sparse, just like the hair on our head medications may not respond to these does,” she notes. “But products on the solutions, leading clients to permanent market are designed to support growth makeup options like microblading or of lashes and brows.” powdered brows. For combating lash loss, Palermo opts for a soft Volume lash extensions set—but only if it LUSHER LASHES AND BROWS won’t damage the integrity of clients’ Tend to sparse lashes and brows with these own lashes. “Never compromise the integrity of the lashes by going too visual helpers. long or too thick,” Palermo stresses. Ardell Stroke a Brow neuLash Professional “Th e application technique remains the Feathering Pen fi lls Lash Enhancing Serum same, but you might use thinner lash in thinning brows with is fortifi ed with patented extensions and less adhesive, focusing natural-looking results Active Eyelash Technology thanks to a fi ne, tapered and WideLash to help more on maintaining the health of precision tip that creates lashes appear noticeably natural lashes.” Palermo’s advice: Look the look of individual brow softer and longer in as for natural lashes in a growth stage as hairs. @ardellbeauty little as three to four well as lashes that can hold a minimum weeks. @skinresearchpro of two .05- or .03-millimeter lashes, Grande Cosmetics GrandeLASH-MD Lash NovaLash Lash+Doctor, and evaluate the overall health of the Enhancing Serum an advanced eyelash and eyelid—e.g. no existing infl ammation helps improve length, eyebrow serum, contains or irritation. “Th e technician needs to fullness and thickness a powerful revitalizing be the professional and take the upper via a proprietary blend of complex that uses hand,” Palermo concludes. “Th e lash vitamins, peptides, amino peptides, natural plant acids, and conditioning extracts and multivitamins extensions clients want might not be ingredients that promote to combat lash loss best for them, especially for weak or shiny, lush, longer-looking caused by follicle aging.

GETTY IMAGES; COURTESY OF MANUFACTURERS GETTY COURTESY IMAGES; thinning natural lashes. If the extensions ﬂ utter. @grandecosmetics @novalashusa

AUGUST 2019 beautylaunchpad.com 85 Addition

by MISSIONFrancesca Moisin More bang for each buck: how add-on services help boost salon sales.

Th e bulk of a salon’s revenue may come from core menu items including cuts and color, but there’s no question that add-on services make for proﬁ table perks. Expanding beyond the basics shows clients you’re current with top trends while also helping boost your business’ bottom line. Hair extensions, strand smoothers and eyelash extensions are recommended add-on options because they don’t always require too much extra time. Further, it follows that a conversation regarding a smoothing hair treatment, for example, may naturally arise with a client already lamenting her frizzy tresses. In other words, the suggestion of an add-on treatment should never feel forced—hard sells are a sure way to lose customers. Here’s what you need to know about incorporating these three meaningful services into daily repertoires. GETTY IMAGES

86 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019 BODY BUILDERS SMOOTH OPERATORS LASH ENHANCERS

EXPERT: Andrea Adams, stylist at EXPERT: Rachel Chambers, owner of EXPERT: Brittany Wilson, stylist at Nicole LifeSpa in Gaithersburg, Maryland, and Identity Salon in Stanwood, Washington Marie’s Salon in Syracuse, New York international trainer for easihairpro BREAK THE ICE: “Clients are there for BREAK THE ICE: “Guests should feel like BREAK THE ICE: To start the add-on your knowledge,” says Chambers. “As they’re coming to the salon to get pampered, conversation, think show, not tell. Avoid professionals, it’s our job to provide not because it’s an obligation,” says Wilson. turning off a client by suggesting an authentic solutions to tress problems.” Building trust opens the door to organic expensive extra service, and instead Don’t be shy—most non-pros crave a communication about how customers might illustrate how hair extensions can infuse glimpse inside your expert head. A get even more out of their beauty experience. va-va-voom volume and length by sporting solid consultation is the foundation of Wilson likes this follow-up: “I think you them on your own head. “Wear it to share this relationship, when customers ask would look gorgeous with lash extensions, it is my best piece of advice,” says Adams. questions and hairdressers deliver tips. and I know the perfect look to fl atter your “When you specialize in hair additions, WHAT TO CHARGE: There are as many eye shape.” you gain credibility by acting as a model.” smoothing treatment options as individual WHAT TO CHARGE: A new, full set runs Get the person in your chair to ask how strand issues, so it won’t make sense to from $150 to $400 for both eyes. “I like to you achieved fab hair, and the service is as establish a single, universal price. Instead, offer a small deal if clients book their hair and good as booked. “Our guests look to us for Chambers suggests creating a guide that lash appointments with me on the same day,” advice on hot trends,” continues Adams. follows this equation: hair type (texture, says Wilson. Ten percent off a service won’t Staying in the know is part of a stylist’s job. porosity, condition; with higher costs for break the salon bank, but may go a long way WHAT TO CHARGE: Consider a formula damaged hair) plus product price plus toward helping clients feel better about costs. based on client need plus the look she time investment equals price point. HOW TO PLAN: Full (as opposed to partial) hopes to achieve. Many companies (like HOW TO PLAN: Suggest the hair lash applications generally take two hours easihairpo) take the guesswork out of smoother that most specifi cally addresses to complete. (Most can be maintained with pricing by providing fi xed amounts for each each guest’s need. For example, regular monthly touch-ups that require half specifi c style, along with à la carte options. Chambers loves to recommend a Keratin the time.) Combined with a hair service, HOW TO PLAN: Extension application Complex Express Blowout or Vitalshot however, this same-day add-on might be too times run the gamut, anywhere from fi ve Bond Rebuilder to color clients. “I can much to take on. “I’m a balayage specialist, minutes (clip-ins) to upwards of four hours complete that treatment in only 15 so clients may already be spending more (keratin hot fusion), with prices varying minutes, while also ensuring a smooth than three hours in my chair,” shares Wilson. accordingly. Generally speaking, think fi nish and locking in color,” she explains. As a compromise, she schedules extensions simple if you’re suggesting add-ons, as If the solution to a problem is a smoothing to coincide with glossing appointments that most guests won’t have extra chair hours treatment that requires too much additional typically take place fi ve weeks out. Urge to spare. Tape-in and clip-in wefts (15 to time, she offers a discount for a later date. guests to consider this a day of pampering 45 minutes) are best bets. “I also pride MARKETING MATTERS: Promotions that will result in refreshed color plus eye- myself on being on time for clients, so I are effective ways of retaining clientele. “I popping lashes. know well in advance if I’m falling behind include the cost of the retail component MARKETING MATTERS: Make this service and can adjust my options accordingly,” into the treatment cost, then send clients readily available on booking apps and shares Adams. home with an aftercare product,” says list it as a business card item. The power MARKETING MATTERS: Signage is a Chambers. “This ensures longevity and of visual aids can’t be overestimated: great conversation-starter, but in this case, supports the next retail purchase.” Stylists Post before-and-after photos on social less is more. “Too much signage feels are the ones who close each sale behind media. Wilson further advertises verbally overwhelming,” warns Adams. She further the chair, so educate staff (or stay up to to existing clients, but twice is the max advocates for contests that require online date) on upcoming salon offers, goals and amount of times to have that talk. “I bring engagement. “It’s 2019, and if you’re not overarching plans. And strengthen your up eyelash extensions during a hair marketing yourself on social media, you’re caché as a pro with your regulars; they’ll be service, then once more when scheduling killing your business,” she adds. As an your walking advertisements. “It’s easier to follow-up appointments,” she says. After inherently visual platform, Instagram is a suggest extra services to an existing client, two “nos,” Wilson wraps up by saying, useful tool—especially for weft-assisted rather than pitch a brand-new customer,” “Okay! If you’re ever interested, here’s how

GETTY IMAGES hairstyles. shares Chambers. to book online.”

AUGUST 2019 beautylaunchpad.com 87 Industry Feed —EMILIE BRANCH

Sideswept twisted strands come together in coiled perfection. Copper Stone Collection by Ivan Rodriquez, BioSilk Hairstyling Ambassador Inspiration: The beauty of nature’s stones and minerals—namely the essential element of copper—inspire the radiant and voluminous waves pictured in this compilation.

Fiery waves get added lift via a faux bang. HAIR: IVAN RODRIGUEZ; PHOTOGRAPHER: JELL LOYA; MAKEUP ARTIST: EL SALON MAKE EL SALON MAKEUP ARTIST: JELL LOYA; PHOTOGRAPHER: RODRIGUEZ; HAIR: IVAN GAMEROS REBECCA STYLIST: WARDROBE UP STUDIO;

88 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019 Education for the Colorist

The American Board of Certifi ed Haircolorists (ABCH) hosted its annual Energizing Summit June 9 to 10 at the Marriott Hotel in Los Angeles, attracting the country’s leading colorists eager for education and inspiration. This year MISSY PETERSON saw top-notch classes led by the likes of Cassandra McLaughlin, Joe Santy, Shannon King, and Nina Kovner, the latter who also moderated a lunch interview with Riawna Capri and Nikki Lee of Nine Zero One salon . We caught up with Beauty Launchpad education team member Missy Peterson of Malibu C and asked her a few questions about why this is one of her can’t-miss events of the year. Beauty Launchpad: Why is it so important to be at this event? Missy Peterson: At the Energizing Summit, you’re talking to top colorists about the science of color and hair, rather than marketing a product. All of the education at the Summit is brand neutral, which really puts the focus on education. I’ve been ABCH-certifi ed for years, so for me to be asked to teach there is like going to the Super Bowl! There really is nothing else like it. BLP: Tell us about the class you taught, “Ravishing Reds: Friend or Foe.” MP: I talked about the science behind redheads. Many people love creating redheads, but they can be very challenging because of where the color deposits in the shaft and so on. I debunked myths and discussed how important it is to prep your canvas properly. You wouldn’t repaint your kitchen without washing off any grease from the walls fi rst, so the same goes for your hair painting. We discussed why it’s diffi cult to keep your reds vibrant, why it’s hard to lift redheads and why they tend to brown out. Reds don’t brown out just because of the color line—it’s because of the minerals in the hair. —AMY DODDS

PARTNERING FOR HAIR RESTORATION Bosley Professional Strength, the largest nonsurgical hair restoration practice in the U.S., has teamed up with Hair Club, a leading provider of surgical hair solutions, to form BioGraft. BioGraft combines Follicular Unit Extraction, a less invasive surgical technique, in which the hairline is recreated using hair from the back or sides of the head, with Xstrands+, a nonsurgical approach to ﬁ lling in thinner areas of the hair. After undergoing BioGraft, clients can expect more volume in the hair and a natural-looking, blended hairline. Th e strategic partnership between these like-minded companies was arranged by the Japanese-based Aderans Co. Ltd., a global conglomerate focused on total hair loss solutions, including counseling, custom wigs and scalp care. COURTESY OF MALIBU C COURTESY AUGUST 2019 beautylaunchpad.com 89 Industry Feed Getting to Know You MEET THE INDIVIDUALS BEHIND THE INDUSTRY’S LEADING BRANDS.

MY MAIN GOALS WITH THE COMPANY ARE: Celebrating the foundation of who we are as a brand while establishing what that looks like in a changing beauty landscape, as well as taking an omnichannel approach to education with increased oﬀ erings and opportunities. I’m also focusing on creative expansion of the Moroccanoil look, and a heightened commitment to corporate social responsibility and sustainability. LEADERSHIP MEANS: Servant leadership. I always ask myself, “Am I focusing on and bettering the people and communities around me?” IN FIVE YEARS I SEE THE HAIR INDUSTRY: ÅROBERT HAM, Vice Committing to the needs of a busy, President of Global diversiﬁ ed consumer market and meeting consumers Education for Moroccanoil where they’re at with experiential touch points. I GET INSPIRED BY: My husband, a strong work ethic and the “everyday” woman. MY FAVORITE WAY TO UNWIND IS: Th is Southern boy likes some good food, good red wine, good company, and watching a good ball game. MY TOP VACATION DESTINATION IS: Napa, California. WHEN I THINK OF BEAUTY, I THINK OF: Th e strength and grace that comes from dedicated individuals persevering against adversity. I WORK IN PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BECAUSE: I’ve seen the impact that helping someone look her best can have.

MY MAIN GOAL WITH THE COMPANY IS: Supporting our family of stylists in achieving their defi nition of success, whether it’s becoming a master stylist, an educator or a salon manager, or simply having the fl exibility to pick their kids up from school. JCPenney believes that when we invest in our people and help them live the lives they’ve imagined, they invest in their clients and we get great results as a team. LEADERSHIP MEANS: Recognizing talent in others and helping to remove barriers to achieving our shared ÅRACHEL JUD, Vice objectives. President of Salons for IN FIVE YEARS I SEE THE HAIR INDUSTRY: Continuing to JCPenney elevate, innovate and off er even more exciting experiences for our clients. I GET INSPIRED BY: Th e talent of the JCPenney Salon by InStyle stylist family. Th ey’re artists, informal therapists and confi dence magicians; they hold so much power in their hands to make people feel better, and that ability (and the ripple eff ect it can create) gets me excited! MY FAVORITE WAY TO UNWIND IS: Spending time in nature with my family. We love to be near the water or in the woods enjoying the great outdoors. WHEN I THINK OF BEAUTY, I THINK OF: Unlimited possibilities. Beauty is ultimately about focusing on the positive; you can fi nd beauty in anything or anyone if you try. I WORK IN PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BECAUSE: It’s exactly where I belong. Serving this incredible community of stylists and delivering incredible experiences to our clients is

what gets me up every morning. OF MANUFACTURERS COURTESY

90 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019 THE MAKEUP ARTIST’S SECRET WEAPON!

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Getting to Know You MEET THE INDIVIDUALS BEHIND THE INDUSTRY’S LEADING BRANDS.

MY MAIN GOAL WITH THE COMPANY IS: Creating an education team with the talent and passion to teach the most advanced aspects of our amazing industry. LEADERSHIP MEANS: Knowing where you’re leading, constantly trying to achieve more, pulling those you’re leading up beside you, and giving credit where it’s due. Th e biggest responsibility of leading is sharing yourself—you need a team that believes in you before you can be a true leader. IN FIVE YEARS I SEE THE HAIR INDUSTRY: Th riving. It’s ÅWILLIAM WHATLEY, often said that our industry is recession-proof; everyone Creative Artistic wants to be made to feel and look beautiful. Th e great Education Director for thing about our industry is that it runs in cycles; what Robanda International was in 10 years ago is guaranteed to come back with a little twist. I GET INSPIRED BY: Everything from the masters of art, music and literature to the most current pop culture. Mainly what inspires me is other people, like seeing beauty school students get excited when they learn something new. MY FAVORITE WAY TO UNWIND IS: Having a quiet night at home with my soul mate of 22 years, a glass of wine and a good movie. MY TOP VACATION DESTINATION IS: Europe. I especially love the Netherlands and the Dutch people. WHEN I THINK OF BEAUTY, I THINK OF: All the faces that have been in my chair and in my life. I truly believe that beauty is in the eye of the beholder and is all around us. I WORK IN PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BECAUSE: I’ve been in this industry since I was 18 years old, and I can’t imagine doing anything else.

IN MEMORIAM It is with a heavy heart that we announce the passing of Patrick Alès at 88 years old. Th e legendary Parisian hairdresser, who styled everyone from Catherine Deneuve to Jackie Kennedy, notably went on to found plant-based hair and skincare company PHYTO. Alès served in various leadership positions with the brand for more than 50 years, up until his retirement in 2018. He will be missed by those in his network as well as the industry at large, and is survived by his family and tremendous legacy of plant-based beauty. PATRICK ALÈS COURTESY OF MANUFACTURERS COURTESY

92 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019 September2019 15-16

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SPONSORING SUSTAINABILITY Aveda served as the presenting sponsor of the Fashion Institute of Technology’s 13th-annual Sustainable Business and Design Conference: Innovation in Sustainability. The brand kicked off the conference with a panel discussion led by Barbara De Laere, senior vice president and Phillip Lim, creative director global general manager of and cofounder of 3.1 Phillip Lim, shares his belief that sustainable Aveda, and featuring Phillip fashion is a journey at the Aveda- Lim, creative director and hosted panel. THE RACK — Haircolor Organizer cofounder of fashion label 3.1 Create your own “haircolor lab” with The Rack, Phillip Lim, Hannah Bronfman, director of sustainability for SH the professional haircolor organizer. Visual inventory Hotels & Resorts, and Lauren Letta, chief operating offi cer of Charity: Water. The panel participants shared their thoughts control, no mess, no waste. Stack them over the on the impact and challenges of sustainability, as well as its counter or attach to a wall with two screws. integration into luxury and future goals, contributing a fashion, Easy ordering online or by phone or email hospitality and nonprofi t perspective. [email protected] 239.596.6178 Beauty haircolor-rack.com Changes 500 Lives … and Counting Update: Now in its sixth year, Beauty Changes SHOW US Lives (BCL) has awarded more than 500 scholarships to aspiring and licensed beauty professionals since YOUR Kristyl Rodgriguez (center) takes its inception. To celebrate the Premiere Orlando stage with top stylists Sam Villa (left) and Jen this major milestone, Planck (right). BCL ambassadors and Best scholarship recipients took to the 2019 Premiere Orlando stage, relating how the nonprofi t is equipping the future generation of beauty professionals for Work success. Former U.S. Marine and Bellus Academy barbering/ cosmetology student Kristyl Rodgriguez moved the crowd while speaking about her personal achievements, made possible because of the Sydell & Arnold Miller Family Art Tag your best images with of Haircutting Student Scholarship. She has since been campaigning for the industry, meeting with legislators from #beautylaunchpad California to Washington D.C. about the job opportunities to be featured on available in beauty. BCL recipients have an outstanding success record—95 our social channels percent graduate from beauty school and approximately one- third go on to start their own business. “We’re honored to have reached the 500-plus scholarship milestone and are well on our way toward changing 1,000 lives. Through initiatives like the Get Your Dream Job campaign, Beauty Changes Lives is changing perceptions about careers in beauty while changing the lives of next-gen professionals,” states BCL

president Lynelle Lynch. OF MANUFACTURERS COURTESY

94 BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD AUGUST 2019 Is your salon an ICA salon? The Intercoiffure America Canada Member Salons are fashion oriented and are always expanding their professional knowledge through ICA’s Ateliers as well as learning from other key members of the beauty industry.

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Boss Babe SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL ARTIST MAGGIE MAY HANCOCK’S TAKE-CHARGE ATTITUDE IS REFLECTED IN HER BODY ART.

FOR YEARS I SWORE I’d never have any tattoos! But here I am, three tats later. Th e ﬁ rst tattoo I got is the date of my son’s birthday—the best and most signiﬁ cant day of my life—written over my heart. My second tattoo is a small rose behind my ear with my best friend’s initials; I loved her deeply, and she O O

unfortunately passed away a little more than a year C N A R

ago. My most recent tattoo, a ﬂ ower with a stem F

L E reading “self made,” is behind my other ear and A H C I M

extends down my neck. Th e ﬂ ower symbolizes my : T O H

growth and journey, as I am personally responsible S D A E H

for who I am today and all that I have worked for. ; ; HEADSHOT: MICHAEL FRANC ; HEADSHOT: ) ) 2 2 ( (

—as told to AO R E K C E H R RHECKER I A

Follow Maggie May Hancock @maggiemh.h. H @ @HAI

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