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Home , Abensberg, Bibra family, Buttenheim, Neustadt am Kulm, Pressath, Rauher Kulm

Dave’s Favs-Out and About in the Oberpfalz

Within 15 minutes

Speinshart monastery

A beautiful kloster just minutes from Graf. Park at the kloster and walk to the high on the Barbaraberg. About 45 minutes to the top. The church is just ruins now but the view from the top is spectacular. A small display on early humans is also near the ruins. Head back to the kloster to enjoy a refreshing beverage and meal. Make sure you stop in the church to view the magnificent interior. http://www.kloster-speinshart.de/ http://www.kloster-speinshart.de/kulturlandschaft/barbaraberg/wallfahrtsweg/index.html

Rauher Kulm

Just past the Speinshart Kloster you will come to a small town , on which lies an extinct volcano. Park near the only red light in town and head up. Several trails to the summit, most take less than 45 minutes to complete one way. At the summit you will find a tower that gives you a wonderful 360* view of the plains below. You will also see in the hillside some excellent examples of basalt rocks. Head back to the village and stop in one of the many restaurants on the mark platz for a snack or lunch. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rauher_Kulm

Pressath

Landgasthhof Kahrmuhle, only 5 minutes from Graf, a beautiful water mill/restaurant/hotel. A little pricey, but they have Zoigl on tap!

Vilseck

Vilseck has a castle with an interesting bend in the wall, hence the name Vilseck (eck meaning corner). Lots of bad luck, plundered by robber /knights in 1512, and again in 1522 by the Albrecht IV, and again during the 30 years war in 1620, and finally most of the villagers died during the Black Plague of 1631-34. Still, a beautiful small schloss you can visit or rent or for special occasions. Just keep your fingers crossed if you go inside. http://burg-dagestein.de/eng/index.php

Within 30 minutes

Maximillian Grotto

Near Auerbach, another wonderful hiking spot with tons of bouldering routes, great , and a cave with ’s largest stalactite, and it’s filled with human skulls from the Wars. What more could you ask for. There is also a nice restaurant nearby with homemade bread and cheese. http://www.maximiliansgrotte.de/

Weiden

Within 60 minutes

Oschenkopf

Oschenkopf is a neaby ma and pa . Only 45 minutes from Graf it contains many easy hiking trails to the summit. Most of the hikes should be less than an hour one way. The trails are also groomed so you should not need shoes. However, shoe treads that slip on over your boots are highly recommended and inexpensive. In the summertime these trails become great mountain biking trails. At the top you will find a futuristic weather station that is the basis of many sci fi movies including star wars. There is also a stone ski chalet that dates back to the turn of the 19th century with a restaurant inside. Stop inside for hot cocoa and cake before heading back down. Locals often drag their sled up and then ride back down. https://www.skiresort.info/ski-resort/ochsenkopf/

Tanz Linden and Thurnau

Tanzlinden are dancing halls made from living trees. Most were destroyed centuries ago when locals converted to Christianity, but several remain just north of us. This is also a great area for breaking out the . You can from site to site on mostly low traffic roads or bike lanes. Start your tour in the way cool village of Thurnau. Park down by the schloss and head out from there. The second link has the bicycle route information if departing from Thurnau. Make sure after your tour you stop by the schloss for a tour of the castle and lunch. There is also a nice pottery museum in town. https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/the-dance-linden-kasendorf-germany https://www.thurnau.de/freizeit-kultur-tourismus/sehenswuerdigkeiten/tanzlinden/

Pottenstein-hiking, murder in the castle, the legend of Elisabeth, and 1000 fires

This place is a romantic gothic’s dream. It has an old castle built by Botto and Otto. The castle also had a murder, kidnapping and ransom (the legend of Elisabeth). It fell to the peasants during the peasant’s war, but survived the Swedish army during the 30 years war. Go figure that one out. Beautiful hiking trails with unusual rock formations, and a ghost called the Schwarz Frau that haunts a cliff. It is naturally a rock climbers dream with thousands of routes, and no less than 5 breweries in town. Plus every year on the 6th of January they light 1000 small fires around the surrounding hillsides for a Catholic celebration of the Ewige Anbetung (Eternal Adoration). There is also one Christmas market shop in town on the markt platz for the shoppers. And don’t forget the cave, rodelbahn, pedal boats, and new scenic skywalk pedestrian bridge. https://www.pottenstein.de/willkommen-in-pottenstein

Streitberg & Neideck

The most beautiful hike in der Franken Schweiz, 11 k. Did this one last weekend, lots of beautiful rock formations, caves, and two castle ruins, one in Streitberg and another in Neibeck. https://www.frankenlandler.com/2019/04/19/the-most-beautiful-trail-in-franconian-switzerland/

Fichtelgebirge Nature Park

Stones galore, hidden robber’s hideout, caves and stone carvings. A scene right out of Frozen and the trolls. https://naturpark-fichtelgebirge.org/?lang=en

Climbing in the Franken Schweiz

Easy routes with milk jug holds to world class routes like Half Life, Gossip, and Wrath of the Lichking, all V15s, all in the Franken Schweiz https://www.summitpost.org/frankenjura/311566

Sanspareil Rock Garden

One of our favorite spots. A romantic garden, full of ruins, in the middle of nowhere, with the whole place to yourself. It was abandoned for centuries until finally restored after the war. Visit in the late spring and you will see masses of rhododendron and mountain laurel blooming. There is also a hunting castle and restaurant in the tiny village. https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/sanspareil-rock-garden

Bamberg

The entire alte stadt is a world heritage site. One of Germany’s most famous bridges, a castle, and don’t forget St Michael’s cathedral. Go to the back of the church where you will find Otto’s tomb. That’s right, the same Otto from Botto and Otto of Pottenstein. Try saying that five times fast. There is hole in the middle of his tomb big enough to crawl thru. It is said crawling thru his tomb will cure you of any back pain. What fun, crawling thru tombs of dead bishops. https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/624

Heiligenstadt (Veilbronn)

The most beautiful water mill in Germany (imo) https://www.fraenkische-schweiz.com/de/touren/detail/5a1bb017975a765ece2c7fbd

Frankendorf ()

And an entire town of half-timbered houses, population 146 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frankendorf_(Buttenheim)

Bayreuth

Two opera houses, one is a Unesco world heritage site, a palace, romantic gardens, spa, a gorgeous stadt, and the Maisel's Weisse! One great brewery. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bayreuth

Amberg

Two beautiful churches, canals, almost fully intact medieval wall, and the world’s smallest hotel. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g229474-Activities-Amberg_Upper_Palatinate_Bavaria.html

Walberla-Witches Mountain

A beautiful hike to a small plateau where the ancient Celts once lived. Lots of legends about witches from the medieval time period. The first weekend of May is their annual festival, the oldest in Germany, where they specialize in selling shoes. https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/walberla

Gnadenberg

Monastery ruins only an hour away, the whole place to yourself. https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kloster_Gnadenberg

Burglengenfeld

A beautiful restored medieval castle near Schwandorf. Check opening times because usually it is closed. Currently a sanctuary for patients with disabilities, so limited access. You can still walk up to and around the castle walls. The trail to the castle is by the local museum near the river. http://burgenseite.de/html/lengenfeld.html

Falkenberg

A beautiful castle on a rocky perch near Weiden. They also have a medieval Christmas market that is one of the best in Germany. http://www.markt-falkenberg.de/

Waldsassen

Kloster just north of Weiden, one of the most beautiful libraries in the world, not to mention human skeletons hanging on the wall in the church. And a great gelato shop in the square. The kids are gonna love this one. http://www.waldsassen.de/

Ossuary, Cham, Arresting, and Dingolfing Germany

The closest ossuary, bone sanctuary, to us. You can see another ossuary at Arresting which is also near the old Roman defense line, Limes Geramicus, and at Dingolfing. The Dingolflng ossuary is very similar to the one at Hallstatt, Austria. Very tastefully done with beautiful artwork. Dingolfing is probably 90 minutes away. https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/chammunster-bone-houseossuary https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/arresting-ossuary https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/dingolfing-ossuary

Lauf an der Pegnitz

As Pollyanna would simply say, simple gorgeous. Half-timbered houses, a castle, and the Pegnitz river meandering thru town.

Within 90 minutes

Lichtenfels

The wicker basket town. In the fall they have a wonderful fest with baskets galore. Even the traditional grape rucksacks that workers used in the vineyards decades ago. http://www.kronach.de/en/lichtenfels-the-german-basket-town-.html

Abensberg

Just south of , this small town is famous for its spargel (white asparagus) and the KuchbauerTower, built by renowned Austrian architect Friedensreich Hundertwasser.

Coburg

One of Germany’s largest castles, and I know what you are thinking, it’s just another another castle. But, this one is special. Massive walls, a romantic courtyard, and spectacular carriages and armour rooms. The town itself was mostly undamaged during the war, so it still retains it medival charm. Park in town and walk up the hill to the castle. Then after the tour head back to town for lunch and exploring the wonderful parks and architecture. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coburg

Pretty far away but worth the trip

Mespelbrunn

In my opinion, the most beautiful castle in Germany. But, it’s 2.5 hours away, between Wurzburg and Frankfurt http://www.schloss-mespelbrunn.de/start.html

The Bibra Familie Tour

The Bibra is the most prominent noble/ancient family in . One of our favorite trips was hunting down a few of their castles. The ones we were able to find in our immediate area are Burg Bibra, Bibra, Irmelhausen, , and Kleinbardorf. These are all located north of Schweinfurt, so a good weekend trip. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bibra_family

Ostheim vor der Rhon

Ostheim is a massively fortified church north of Schweinfurt. Inside you will find two statues of local patrons of the church. Apparently it is considered good luck to rub one part of the knight’s anatomy. The town contains lots of medieval structures and the Bionade factory. Nearby is a small castle/B&B. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ostheim

Burg Eltz

My wife votes for this castle as the most beautiful. Sort of a castle condo as there are several different owners each with their own floor. But, it’s almost 5 hours away, so my castle is more beautiful. https://burg-eltz.de/en/

Devil’s Bridge

This is one cool place. Another romantic garden, in the middle of nowhere, and the whole place to yourself again. You cannot walk on the bridge, but, go in the winter time and you can skate below it. Lots of Grottos are scattered about and a small schloss as well. Take this site in as you head over to Poland for pottery shopping. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Azalea_and_Rhododendron_Park_Kromlau

Muskau Park

While you are there at the Devil’s Bridge take in Muskau Park. This park straddles the German and Polish border. Take your bicycles because this park is enormous. Again, this park is totally empty, so enjoy the solitude.

Local Delicacies

Schweinfurt fruit winery

If you like sweet fruit wines, then this castle is for you. 20 different fruit wines. Packaged in a beautiful apotheke flasks. https://www.schloss-gebsattel.de

Franken Wine

Franken wines can only be produced in northern in the Wurzburg region. They are packaged in a beautiful tulip shaped bottle. Renowned for their whites and drys (trocken), but their semi drys are also quite good. In the fall they produce federweiss, a super sweet greenish wine. Tastes like lemonade but be careful how many you drink. https://www.frankenwein-aktuell.de/ Zoigl Bier

A local variety that has become very popular recently. Can only be brewed in the Oberpfalz region of Bavaria, and has a very short shelf life. Usually brewed in a town’s communal brewery, families sign up for a day to brew. A small fee is paid to maintain the brewery. The symbol of the Zoigl bier is the six sided star, each point representing fire, earth, air, water, malt, and hops. When you see the star hanging outside of a Stube then you know a fresh batch is available. One of the largest communal breweries is located in , just north of Bayreuth, called the Kulmbacher Kommunbrau. Located by the river near the castle, it’s a great place to relax after hiking to the summit to see the world’s largest collection of tin soldiers. Inner courtyard is free of charge and is a great place to see a beautiful collection of wall murals. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abensberg

Czech Republic

Loket

A beautiful Czech town only 90 minutes away. Loket translates to “elbow” in English, and you can see why they named it this as the town sits on a peninsula surrounded by a beautiful river. While you are there take in the spiral stone tower of Krasno. Built by local farmers in the 1930’s it resembles the tower of Babylon. Only 30 minutes from Loket. https://www.czechtourism.com/t/loket/ https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/spiral-tower-of-krasno

Marienbad/ Mariánské Lázně

A beautiful spa town just across the border in Czech. Lots of carbon dioxide springs and Victorian architecture. A small ski resort at the edge of town as well.

Karlsbad/Karlovy Vary

Another beautiful spa town in Czech with carbon dioxide springs as well. Try to spot the Karl Marx monument.

Bicycling in

Fuenf Flusse Radweg

This is one fun bike trail. A little over 300 k, you can begin is several different spots, but Amberg is a great place to park the car at the Congress Centrum to take off. The trail heads down the Vils river, intersects with the Nab at a cool town called Kallmunz, and from there to Regensburg. Along the way you will pass two monasteries. From Regensburg head to to see the Liberation Hall, then a detour to the monastery Weltenburg, world’s oldest brewery. Now head towards Nuremburg along the Main Canal. You will eventually merge with the Ludwig Danube Main Canal at Berching. This canal resembles the Erie Canal in Pennsylvania. Over 40 of the old locks are still working, plus the old tow path has been converted to a bike path with shady trees. You really feel you have stepped back in time on this section of the trail. A lot of the old lock master stone offices have been sold and now converted to private homes. The trail ends at Nuremburg-Gartenstadt. Continue on to Nuremburg and now home via the Pegnitz river and Neuhaus on the Pegnitz. Along this river you will pass a beautiful small schloss at Artelshofen, and then another in Neuhhaus an der Pegnitz. From here it’s a straight shot back to Amberg. Happy trails! https://fuenf-fluesse-radweg.info/en/home.html http://kanal.andre-kraut.de/heute_en.html

Main River Bicycle Trail

Highest rated bicycle trail in Germany, and that means a lot. Beautiful, and I mean beautiful villages along the entire route. This is the one to do with kids, very flat and lots of playgrounds. http://bicyclegermany.com/main_river.html Romantic Strasse Bicycle Trail

Wurzburg to Fussen stopping by beautiful villages along the way. https://www.romanticroadgermany.com/general/biking.php

Claudia Augusta Bicycle Trail

Old Roman military road over the . A nice route, one of the easier ways over the Alps, or just stop in Fussen and train back home. https://www.komoot.com/collection/759/on-the-via-claudia-augusta-across-the-alps

Danube River Bicycle Trail

From Donaworth, Germany to Constanta, Romania on the Black Sea if you have the time https://www.danube-cycle-path.com/

Paddling in Europe Freizeitsee Dießfurt. Between Graf and Weiden on highway 470 you will find the Freizeitsee Dießfurt. Great for stand up board paddling, water is quite clean. No bathroom facilities.

The Vils River and the Naab River

Both have liveries. Swift water in some areas but flat, so class 1 rating. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vils_(Naab) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naab

Tour International Danube

Every summer you can paddle 1 or up to 8 weeks on the Danube, all the way to the Black Sea if you have the time. http://wwf.panda.org/wwf_news/?21532/The-TID-begins

Venice Vogalonga

My daughter did this several years ago. It was one of the best trips ever. Camp overnight for free at the Venice parking garage. Next morning slip into the water and head down the grand canal. It is not for the faint hearted, 30 kilometers of open water. Every boat imaginable will be on the water, shells, Canadian , sea , dragon boats, and of course gondolas. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vogalonga

Websites to check for places to visit

Odd, off the beaten path, right in front of your nose, not very many tourists kind of places https://www.atlasobscura.com/

UNESCO world heritage site, world’s greatest treasures and links, natural and man made https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/

Great hiking and biking site with the best mapping services anywhere https://www.komoot.com/login

Euro Velo: site with all of the long distance bicycle tours in Europe. Their site is difficult to navigate, but it does give you lots of ideas. http://www.eurovelo.com/en

European Long Distance Hiking Trails: their answer to the Appalachian, Continental Divide, and Pacific Crest trail https://worldtrailsnetwork.org/portfolio-item/european-long-distance-trails-e1-e12/

DAV: Deutsch Alpenverein. Their version of the Sierra Club. Membership brings lots of perks and discounts at the mountain huts and meals, plus a way to meet the locals and travel. For guided trips to anywhere in the world check out their summit club catalog. https://www.alpenverein.de/ https://www.dav-summit-club.de/