M2 Travel Boston Sunday Globe APRIL 3, 2016

By Ann Parson Two of Da Vinci’s flying GLOBE CORRESPONDENT machines in the exhibit f you’re headed to London, “The Mechanics of Genius” here’s some blasphemous ad- at London’s Science vice. Put the kings and queens, Museum. art museums, and Shake- speare on hold, and instead window and landed in a Petri dish in jumIp down a rabbit hole into London’s which Fleming was growing bacteria, unparalleled history of science. leading to his famous 1928 discovery. London has more than two dozen The Faraday Museum at The Royal museums devoted to science and med- Institution maintains the original lab icine, some large, some small, some of another important scientist, Michal spiffy, some dusty, and all vastly inter- Faraday, inventor of the first electric esting. (There’s no such thing as an un- transformer and generator. An added interesting science museum, some of bonus is an array of keepsakes tied to us would argue.) other important scientists. Here’s the Clearly, the English themselves ap- glass tube that helped John Tyndall de- preciate what they have. On a sunny duce why the sky is blue. Here’s the day in February, a handful of people spectrometer that Rosalind Franklin stood outside the Victoria and Albert used to find DNA. waiting for it to open, while across the Wherever you go in London’s sci- street — “Exhibition Road,” it’s called ence underground, you’ll run into the — the lines in front of the Science Mu- name “Wellcome,” as in Henry Well- seum and the Natural History Muse- come, the Wisconsin-born researcher um were endless, quite literally. Grant- who ended up a knighted Brit at the ed, it was school vacation week, but forefront of pharmaceuticals in the adults far outnumbered children, I UK. The Wellcome Trust, a major couldn’t help but notice. funder of biomedical research world- London’s Science Museum is an ex- wide, is also a generous supporter of cellent first stop. Once there, just keep science museums, mirroring Henry moving. Or its exhibits, which span ANN PARSON FOR THE BOSTON GLOBE Wellcome’s obsession with collecting. over 250 years of technology, could The Wellcome Collection’s perma- steal you away for a week. nent exhibition “Medicine Man” gives To mention a few: “James Watt and a fine sense of this hungry collector, Our World” is a dramatic display of who, by the time he died in 1936, had early steam engines and a perfect pref- The science of London acquired over one-million medical ob- ace to “Making the Modern World,” a jects. vast assembly of revolutionary objects Clocks, flight, and natural history have their place beside royalty Here’s dedication and quirkiness — the first sewing machines, the first too: amputation saws and artificial typewriters, the first motor cars, and limbs dating back to the 16th-century; so on. A new addition, the “Clockmak- sils to animated life-sized models. me as “London’s best-kept secret.” But Babbage’s brain. glass eyeballs, phallic amulets, and ers’ Museum” illustrates, by way of Owen, who is remembered as “can- I’m not so sure that’s true anymore, There’s much more to the Hunteri- early stethoscopes. Wellcome was criti- hundreds of exquisite timepieces, Lon- tankerous” but brilliant, was a harsh judging by how crowded it was. an than bottled parts. You’ll find a riv- cized for muddying his collection with don’s famous clock and watchmakers critic of Charles Darwin, and one of Hunter and his assistants bottled eting history of surgery as well as the non-medical items. Lucky for us he of old. the monkey heads carved on an arch- more than 4,000 animal and plant Evelyn Tables, the oldest anatomical did! Darwin’s walking cane, for in- Flight is a constant theme, from a way in Hintze Hall is said to bear Dar- specimens, particularly to compare an- relics in existence. Acquired by The stance, comes with the story of how stable of early aircraft to Leonardo Da win’s likeness. But Darwin seems to atomical parts and look for answers Royal Society in the 1600s, they repre- much Darwin loved to walk — it was Vinci’s flying machines, some based on have won out. His statue now occupies about disease, about form and func- sent a person’s arterial and venous sys- his thinking time — and how the cane’s helical forms in nature that, like a ma- the Hall’s seat of honor, while Owen’s tion, about reproduction. Two-thirds tems laid on thick board. Noticeably striking the ground alerted people of ple seed, can spin great distances. statue has been moved to a back room. of the specimens were destroyed when missing is the heart, since its role in his approach. Like a maple seed, I was blown At the center of London’s well-pre- the College was bombed in 1941. Still, circulation wasn’t yet understood. All these museums can be reached away by this awesome museum. served past lie unique collections an amazing display remains, and it’s Of the museums I visited, my own via one of London’s most historic inno- Next door, the colossal cathedral- amassed by physicians and naturalists not for the squeamish. vote for London’s best-kept secret goes vations, the Tube, the world’s oldest like Natural History Museum and its to better understand our own and oth- Here floats, in their original bottles to the Alexander Fleming Laboratory underground railway (1863). Many founder Richard Owen, a paleontolo- er species. and bleached by alcohol, isolated tu- Museum, which is tucked away in St. have free admission, although chances gist, make for an interesting chapter. The Hunterian Museum at the Roy- mors and hernias, an orangutan’s Mary’s Hospital in northwest London. are you’ll want to make a contribution. Dinosaurs, or “terrible lizards” (from al College of Surgeons provides an eye- head, mice testicles enlarged in spring (I nearly ended up in a men’s room try- Thanks, London, for keeping centu- the Greek, Dinosauria), were named popping look at the collection of John and reduced in fall, sets of teeth, nor- ing to find it.) It was in this very lab, as ries of science so wonderfully alive. by Owen. So it’s appropriate they turn Hunter, Europe’s celebrated 18th-Cen- mal bone and syphilis-affected bone, curator Kevin Brown masterfully rec- up everywhere, from “Dippy” the Di- tury anatomist and surgeon. Time and the alimentary canal of a stick insect, reates, that a bit of mold, Penicillium Ann Parson can be reached at parson- plodocus in Hintze Hall to marine fos- again the Hunterian was described to and half of mathematician Charles notatum, blew in through an open [email protected].

By Diane Bair wildlife watching, biking, and moun- and Pamela Wright Have teens, will travel tain hiking. GLOBE CORRESPONDENTS Cruises are a fun option for families he mother-son trip to traveling with teens, Poirot notes, Florida should’ve been a Tips to make vacations with young adults fun for all in the family since you can do onboard activities to- total bust. The cool cous- gether and spend some time apart. ins had bailed, the horse- Pick a cruise line that offers teen-only surfing trip was canceled Know thy teens programs so kids can make new (theThorses didn’t show up), the guest Should you get your teens involved friends and hang with their tribe. room was super-tiny (the son’s giant in the planning of your trip? That de- Cruise lines known for this include shoes stayed outside), and the weather pends on the kid. Jim Kackley, general Princess, Royal Caribbean, Carnival, was breathtakingly hot — 100 degrees manager of Thomson Family Adven- and NCL. with 90 percent humidity. And yet . . . tures, says . . . maybe. “One of my teens Family resorts can offer a similar Connor and Diane spent a happy three tends to say ‘no’ to everything in ad- experience on land. Some resorts pull days sleeping late, bodysurfing in the vance, but when he’s there, he has the out all the stops when it comes to teen Gulf of Mexico, and eating at Mr. greatest experience. We know him and programming. For example, the Tama- Bones, a barbecue-slash-Indian food prod him because of this. The other rind resort (www.tamarindbarba- joint famous for its coffin full of bever- one loves to experience new cultures dos.com) in Barbados offers activities ages, every single day. and new people, so he is very flexible. like aerial cinematography, a teen spa Moo Bishop of Thomson Family We all know our kids well and have to day, and stand-up paddle-boarding les- Adventures (familyadventures.com) in decide individually how much to in- sons expressly for teens, so they can Watertown has her own teen-trip- clude them in the process.” Other teens try something new and fun (and Insta- with-a happy-ending tale. “I dragged are super-opinionated, and know what gram-worthy). The resort also offers my kids to Alaska one summer, where they want to see and do. Get them in- complimentary teen-friendly water they had zero interest in going. In no volved in planning, and they’ll have a sports, like catamaran sailing, water- time, they thought it was the coolest stake in the outcome. skiing, kayaking, windsurfing, tubing, thing they’d ever done,” and they even Even more important is to plan and banana boat rides. With this age thanked her, Bishop says. events that play to your kids’ enthusi- group, there’s no such thing as too Of course, either of these trips asms, Kackley says. That nature-loving much of a good thing, we’d say. could’ve gone horribly wrong. (Cue teen would probably adore Costa Rica, Closer to home, a camping or RV slamming doors and teens spending or Yellowstone National Park, and trip to one of the US national parks is a days communing with an iPhone.) It what teenage Sox fan wouldn’t love to fun family adventure at a good price almost makes that screaming infant hit spring training in Fort Myers? point. Parks in the southwest are espe- seem charming. cially intriguing to East Coast kids, Travel is always a crapshoot, but Some things are universal since the landscape is so different. The the stakes are higher with teens. They Teens sleep in. That’s just the way parks offer loads of outdoor recreation can be a tough bunch to please, and they’re designed. So travel according- options, plus “Days can be organized some resist the idea of a family vaca- ly; maybe plan to hit the spa or golf so that the teens can sleep late, and tion altogether. “You’d think I was links or a local museum while they then join the family for a late-morning signing him up for a week of root ca- snooze in the morning. Also a given: or afternoon activity,” Kackley notes. nals, not a week at the beach,” said one teens like their privacy. Multi-room Cities can be surprisingly budget- mom we spoke to. (Blame FOMO — suites or home rentals can be a great friendly for families, Poirot says. “They fear of missing out — on fun with option, Poirot says. “If you can, find can be fantastic destinations because friends at home.) So we asked the ex- ways to give teens their own rooms — they have so much to offer, like muse- perts for their advice on vacationing it will give everyone some breathing ums, shows, and historic districts.” with teens. Here’s what they said. space.” Since many families flock to resorts, Allow teens some time to chill and city hotels can be very affordable, espe- Just do it already to mix it up with other kids their age, cially on weekends. And if you pick a Sure, they can be moody and sul- Bishop advises. And give your teen domestic locale, you might be able to len, but teens can also be delightful some freedom, if the destination al- drive there. DIANE BAIR traveling companions. “With teens, lows. “Allow them to venture away If it sounds like we’re recommend- travel can be especially fun, as they from you, with a set meeting time or ing several kinds of trips, that’s really seek adventurous experiences,” says curfew,” Poirot says. “They’ll relish the Adventures in Tanzania the point. As Bishop says, “Teens can Lissa Poirot, editor in chief of Family freedom, you get some alone time, and (top), zip-lining in New love anything new if it is presented in a Vacation Critic (www.familyvacation- it will help instill confidence when Hampshire (above), or fun and active way.” They’re keen to try critic.com). “Instead of standing in they eventually go off on their own.” meeting a giant turtle in new things, and to be treated like the line to ride kiddie rides, you can the Galapagos turned into almost-adults they are, she says. “This choose adventures you both like, such Plan for some spontaneity fun vacations for both is why getting everyone out of their as hiking, horseback riding, scuba div- Yes, we know how that sounds! But adults and teens. The key? normal routine and into something ing, and zip lining.” rather than plan every moment, allow Know your teenagers and unfamiliar can work so well to change Shared travel experiences with your some time to just go with the flow. what they like. the family dynamic, if only for a week.” teenager can also give you some good “Leave some decisions to be made Kackley agrees. “When we take our memories to fall back on when things while you’re there, to add a sense of teens out of the home setting and on get rocky at home. Bishop, who trav- adventure and allow you to adjust with active and challenging elements and the Galapagos for young adults, the road, we leave behind some of the eled to China with her then-15-year- plans based on the interests of your are a hit with teens. Planning too too, thanks to the adventure options parent/child issues,” he says. old daughter, recalls, “Our crazy expe- teen at the moment,” Poirot says. Let many museums and city tours is a ma- and unique settings. “You can hike one “We can watch them experience the riences there gave us things to laugh your teen make the call. (See: Mr. jor turn-off. Popular far-flung destina- day, zip line through rain forests, and world as young adults, and not just as about and reminisce about over the Bones.) tions for this age group are Croatia, learn to surf and dive,” she notes. our kids.” years since, and this got us through Thailand, Peru, Italy, Costa Rica, Baja, Kackley says Thomson’s Tanzania safa- some tougher times. I’ve always been Action and adventure? Yes, please. Mexico, and the Galapagos, the folks ri is a hit with families with teens, Diane Bair and Pamela Wright can be grateful for that trip.” Our experts were unanimous: Trips at Thomson say. Poirot likes Costa Rica thanks to activities like nighttime reached at [email protected].