FREE WOVEN INTO THE EARTH: TEXTILE FINDS IN NORSE GREENLAND PDF

Else Ostergaard | 256 pages | 20 Nov 2004 | Aarhus University Press | 9788772889351 | English | Aarhus, Denmark , Østergård, Woven into the Earth | The Medieval Review

In Poul Norlund discovered dozens of garments from a graveyard in the Norse settlement of Herjolfsnaes, Greenland. Preserved intact by the permafrost, these medieval clothes displayed remarkable similarities to those worn elsewhere in Europe and which, until then, had been known only from illustrations. This volume reports on the reults of eighty years of research and scientific investigation into this remarkable discovery. Else Ostergard describes the events of the excavation, the materials and methods used in making the clothes and the sophisticated weaving and sewing techniques despite the harsh conditions the women undoubtedly had to work in. Ordren behandles senest 3 hverdage fra modtagelse. Og husk at der Woven into the Earth: Textile Finds in Norse Greenland er gratis adgang til Museumsbutikken. Log ind. View in English. Toggle navigation. Produkter Nyt i Shoppen. Musik og film Musik Film. Museumskopier Norden Europa Egypten. Se hele kategorioversigten. Modtag vores nyhedsbrev. Textiles from Norse Greenland. Woven into the Earth. Indgravering tekst. Relaterede varer PNM vol. Laughlin ,00 DKK. Opret ny bruger Glemt adgangskode Log ind Log ind Glemt adgangskode. Forkert Email, Mobil nr. Kodeordet er nu sendt til din email! Woven Into the Earth: Textiles from Norse Greenland - Else Østergård - Google книги

Preserved intact for centuries by the permafrost, these mediaeval garments display remarkable similarities to western European costumes of the time. Previously, such costumes were known only from contemporary illustrations, and the Greenland finds provided the world with a close look at how ordinary Europeans dressed in the Middle Ages. She describes what the finds tell us about the materials and methods used in making the clothes. The weaving and sewing techniques detailed here are surprisingly sophisticated, and one can only admire the talent of the women who employed them, especially considering the harsh conditions they worked under. Exhibitions of Norse textiles 19 2. Exhibitions in Greenland 19 3. Results of earlier analyses of Norse textiles 20 4. Sheep and goats 37 2. Sheep-farming and the use of the sheep 39 3. Everything was used 39 4. Disease among the sheep 40 5. The wool 42 2. Washing and sorting the wool 43 3. Spinning 45 2. Woven into the Earth: Textile Finds in Norse Greenland spindle 45 3. Top-whorl spindle 46 4. Bottom-whorl spindle 47 5. Spinning without a whorl 47 6. The distaff 49 7. Norse spindles 49 8. Spindle whorls 51 9. Presentation of the warp-weighted loom 53 2. The warp-weighted loom in use 53 3. Loom weights 54 4. Sword beaters 56 5. Working height 57 6. The weaving room 58 7. The weaves 62 2. Weaving width 63 4. Weaving length 63 Woven into the Earth: Textile Finds in Norse Greenland. Starting borders 64 6. Selvedges Woven into the Earth: Textile Finds in Norse Greenland 7. Weaving density 66 8. Tabby weaves 67 9. Repp 67 Panama weaves 67 Diamond twill 70 Striped weaves 71 Check weaves 72 Pile weaves 72 Goat-hair textiles 75 Garment construction 95 3. Comparative material 95 4. Sewing 97 5. Sewing of pleats 99 6. Embroidery 7. Buttons 8. Borders 2. Hairwork 2. Costume pins 3. Needles 2. Needle whetstones 3. Needle cases 4. Weaving tablets 5. Seam smoothers 6. Sails 2. Textile fragments from Inuit settlements on Ellesmere Island and in Greenland 3. Tents Caulking Footwear Viking Age Comparison with preserved fragments and whole garments Comparison with Nordic pictorial material from theViking Age The Middle Ages Fully dressed male bodies Garment lengths relative to the heights of people from the Middle Ages The last Norse Greenlander Explanation of the Catalogue Text Where the Garments were placed Catalogue Garment Type Ia Garment Type Ib Garment Type Ic Garment Type Id Garment Type Ie Garment Type If Garment Type II Hoods Type I Hoods Type II Caps Stockings The Lengths of the Garments Analytical Tables of all Textile Finds NOTES Garments D Hood D Stocking D Preserved intact for centuries by the permafrost, these mediaeval garments display Herjolfsnes - Wikipedia

It was established Woven into the Earth: Textile Finds in Norse Greenland Herjolf Bardsson in the late 10th century and is believed to have lasted some years. The fate of its inhabitants, along with all the other Norse Greenlandersis unknown. The site is known today for having yielded remarkably well- preserved medieval garments, excavated by Danish archaeologist Paul Norland in Its name roughly translates as Herjolf's Point or Cape. Landing on Greenland's southwest coast, Erik and his other kinsmen almost invariably chose to settle further inland away from the open Labrador Sea, at the heads of the fjords where the land was better suited to farming. By contrast, Herjolf's decision to establish himself at the end of a fjord directly facing the open ocean near Greenland's southernmost tip suggests that his primary intention was not farming, but rather the establishment of the new colony's major port of call for incoming ships from Iceland and Europe. Herjolf's homestead was situated on the west shore of a fjord that came to bear his name, Herjolfsfjordand was the southern- and easternmost major homestead of the colony's Eastern Settlement. Herjolf's son Bjarni had been conducting business in Norway and returned to Iceland to spend Yule at the family's homestead, only to learn Herjolf had joined the exodus to the new Greenland colony. Bjarni set out to follow Herjolf, but was blown off course to the southwest, becoming the first known European to skirt, if not land on, the North American coast. Realizing he had overshot Greenland, Bjarni reversed course to the northeast and came to a land that matched the description he had been given. The saga states, " Erik is said to have treated him well, but others in the court criticized Bjarni's lack of initiative for failing to explore the new lands he had seen. Upon Bjarni's return to Herjolfsnes, he is said to have given up seafaring and lived there with his father, and upon Herjolf's death " afterwards dwelt there " presumably as the chieftain of the homestead and the immediate district. In Erik The Red's Saga which covers essentially the same events as the Greenlanders Sagathe famous Icelander Gudrid Thorbjornsdottir is said to have landed at Herjolfsnes after a difficult journey, and lived there for a while. Curiously, this saga describes the homestead as being owned by a man named Thorkell, and makes no mention of Herjolf or Bjarni. Helge and Anne Stine Ingstad believed that the saga's author may have written the two men out of the story in order to elevate the exploits of Leif Erikssonthe first known European to land in North America. After the colony's conversion to Christianity in ADHerjolfsnes was one of 16 known sites in the Eastern Settlement on which a church was raised. The ruins that are visible today are those of a church built in the 13th century, which was likely raised on the site of an older, conversion-era church. It had a rectangular foundation similar to that of the churches at Hvalsey and Brattahlid further north in Woven into the Earth: Textile Finds in Norse Greenland style that was common in medieval northern Europe. The Herjolfsnes church was the 3rd largest in the Norse Greenland colony, behind Gardar and Brattahlid. The church's graveyard contained the remains of local inhabitants and also of those who had died during ocean voyages to the colony. One account tells of 12th century Icelanders who were shipwrecked on the east coast and perished while trying to cross the inland glaciers in an attempt to reach Herjolfsnes, only to be buried there instead. For bodies lost or buried at sea, it appears to have been the custom to carve commemorative Woven into the Earth: Textile Finds in Norse Greenland onto a stick which was then placed in the Herjolfsnes graveyard when the ship made landfall there. One such runestick found at Herjolfsnes reads, " This woman, whose name was Gudveg, was laid overboard in the Greenland Sea. Some of the deceased at Herjolfsnes had been laid to rest in wooden coffins. However, perhaps owing to the scarcity of wood, it increasingly became the practice to wrap the deceased in layers of wool clothing. Ivar Bardarson, a Norwegian priest who lived in the colony for nearly 20 years in the mid 14th century as a representative of the Norwegian Crown and the Catholic church, wrote that Herjolfsnes served as the major harbour for Greenland's inbound and outbound traffic and was well known to North Atlantic sailors, who referred to it as "Sand". The nearby Makkarneq Bay, which offers much better shelter than Herjolfsnes proper, features several Norse ruins that appear to include the foundations of stone warehouses, and is thus a possible site of the Sand harbour that Bardarson described. Prior to the arrival of the Norse, successive waves of Paleo-Eskimo cultures had inhabited Greenland, perhaps as far back as BC. However, the island is believed to have been uninhabited by the time of the Norse arrival, except perhaps for the extreme northwest region, by the Dorset culture. The Little Climatic Optimum then under way would have made the southwest coast especially unsuited to the Dorset's arctic hunter-gatherer way of life; they are believed to have had great difficulty adapting to this warm period, and retreated progressively farther north. As a result, it is believed that the first North American aboriginals that Norse Greenlanders encountered were actually the Beothuk in Newfoundland. It was only later that the Norse came into direct contact with related peoples in Greenland itself, the Thule culture, who supplanted the Dorset throughout the North American Arctic starting circa AD These contacts likely started when the Norse began to make regular hunting trips far north of their settlements - or to the island's east coast - to obtain walrus and narwhal ivory. With the advent of the Little Ice AgeGreenland's cooling climate prompted the Thule to increase their southern range, and brought them into greater contact with the Norse than had been the case with the Dorset. Modern Inuit Greenlanders have oral histories about their ancestors' contact with Woven into the Earth: Textile Finds in Norse Greenland Norse, which recount instances of both friendship and hostilities. One legend tells of a Norse chieftain named Ungortoq and his enemy, an Inuit leader named K'aissape who was said to have burned the Hvalsey settlement and pursued Ungortoq from Hvalseyfjord all the way down past Herjolfsnes to Cape Farewell. Recent archaeological soil testing of Norse and Thule building ruins in Makkarneq Bay a few kilometres west of Herjolfsnes suggests that both peoples occupied the area at the same time. Having endured for nearly a half-millennium, the exact fate of the Woven into the Earth: Textile Finds in Norse Greenland settlers in Herjolfsnes and the entirety of Greenland remains unknown, although several factors were likely involved. The Greenlanders' pastoral way of life would have been severely challenged by the onset Woven into the Earth: Textile Finds in Norse Greenland the Little Ice Age, much more so than their counterparts in Europe. DNA analysis of human remains from Herjolfsnes and other settlements shows that marine-based protein especially from seals became an increasingly large part of their diet, compared Woven into the Earth: Textile Finds in Norse Greenland the pastoral diet of Erik the Red's time. Other theories include the possibility of conflict with Thule Inuit and predation by European pirates. There is no indication from archaeology or human remains that the Norse intermarried with the Thule or adopted their way of life, nor Woven into the Earth: Textile Finds in Norse Greenland record from Iceland or Norway that hints of an exodus out of Greenland. Historical records do suggest that ships from Europe arrived less frequently owing to the worsening sea conditions. ByPope Nicholas V lamented reports that Greenland "a region situated at the uttermost end of the earth" had been without a resident Bishop for 30 years although the last known one, Bishop Alf, actually died earlier, in These concerns were echoed in a letter dated circa by Pope Alexander VIwho believed that no communion had been performed in Greenland for a century, and Woven into the Earth: Textile Finds in Norse Greenland no ship had visited there in the past 80 years. However, even after the colony was forsaken by the Church and well into the 16th century, the empty title "Bishop of Gardar" continued to be held by a succession of Woven into the Earth: Textile Finds in Norse Greenland least 18 individuals, none of whom visited their nominal diocese and only one of whom Bishop Mattias Knutsson reportedly expressed any desire to do so. Although there is no first-hand account of Norse Greenlanders living afteranalysis of the clothing buried at Herjolfsnes suggests that there was a remnant population who continued to have some sort of contact with the outside world for at least a few more decades. One Woven into the Earth: Textile Finds in Norse Greenland account comes from a sailor dubbed Jon The Greenlander, not from origin of birth, but because " Once when he was sailing with some German merchants from Hamburg, they entered a deep still Greenland fjord There they found a dead man lying face downwards. On his head was a well-sewn cap. The rest of his garments were partly of wadmalpartly of sealskin. Beside him lay a sheath-knife, much worn from frequent whetting This account comes from the early 16th century, but it is not clear when the incident actually happened. Early examination of human remains from the Herjolfsnes churchyard gave rise to a belief that its inhabitants had died out from inbreeding and overall degeneration from extreme cultural and geographic isolation. However, Helge Ingstad disputed this as Woven into the Earth: Textile Finds in Norse Greenland faulty assumption that was made after only a cursory analysis of a particularly bad sample of remains. Ingstad asserted that on balance, the Herjolfsnes graveyard shows the picture of a relatively healthy and prosperous people who generally reflected the social and religious mores of Northern European Christendom. A growing volume of explorers and whalers were once again beginning to land in Greenland by the 16th century, but it was not until the early 18th century that a comprehensive official effort was made by the then-unified Danish-Norwegian crown to re-connect with the lost colony, [15] a job given to Apostle Hans Egede. From reading Icelandic sagas, Egede knew the names of the old Norse homesteads and their associated fjords, but not their locations. A major source of confusion was that the Norse Greenlanders' EasternMiddle and Western settlements, despite their names, were all located on Greenland's west coast, running south to north respectively. Egede held the then-common Woven into the Earth: Textile Finds in Norse Greenland belief that major Eastern Settlement homesteads such as Herjolfsnes were to be found on Greenland's forbidding east coast. By the early 19th century, visitors and local Inuit had begun finding artifacts and bits of clothing Woven into the Earth: Textile Finds in Norse Greenland in the western shoreline nearest the Herjolfsnes church ruins: the sea level had risen considerably since the Norse period and was eroding the grounds around the old church. The formal re-discovery of the graveyard by Europeans was in the early 19th century when a missionary observed that a nearby Inuit house had a load-bearing doorway that was fashioned from an old tombstone bearing the name Hroar Kolgrimsson. A trading clerk was also said to have found a Norse wool "sailor's jacket" near the church ruins. This prompted a formal excavation attempt in and the discovery of fair-haired human remains confirmed the site was a Norse cemetery. The diggings also revealed other buildings besides the church, including the main house and adjoining banquet hall, a byre and some outbuildings. In the ruins of the church, archaeologists found a significant quantity of charcoal, suggesting a conflagration at some point. The local Inuit's name for the site, Ikigait "the place destroyed by fire" is further evidence of this. More recent soil-testing indicates a landslide occurred at some point in the 18th century, and may have eradicated the remains of other Norse buildings at the site. The increasing number of wadmal fragments and garments being pulled from the ruins - and concern that the rising water line would soon submerge the site - prompted the Danish National Museum to launch an urgent formal excavation in led by Paul Norland. He estimated that the shoreline had retreated another 12 metres into the cemetery since its rediscovery less than a century before, and was by then nearly touching the remains of the church's southern wall. Comparing Norland's site plan drawing against modern photographs, the high water line does not appear to have risen significantly since then. Norland stated in his book, Buried Norsemen at Herjolfsnes, that he'd never worked on a project that attracted such keen interest from the local inhabitants. One woman informed him that she had become so accustomed to finding pieces of preserved Norse wool that she had fashioned children's garments from the centuries-old fabric, but the wool unsurprisingly was not strong enough to make the clothing practical. Working under difficult conditions during the short digging season, Norland and his crew were eventually successful in recovering full and partial costumes, hats, hoods Woven into the Earth: Textile Finds in Norse Greenland stockings. The recovery of these clothes is considered one of the most significant European archaeological finds of the 20th century. Prior to the Herjolfsnes diggings, these types of garments had essentially only been seen in medieval paintings. Careful analysis and reconstruction of the garments revealed the skill of the Herjolfsnes inhabitants at spinning and weaving, as well as their desire to follow European fashions such as the cotehardiethe liripipe hood and hats in the Burgunderhuen and Pillbox styles. Later analysis using carbon dating suggests that garments were being manufactured at Herjolfsnes as late as the s. The garments had been stained a dark brown from being buried, but testing revealed the presence of iron on some of them that appeared to have been deliberately and selectively introduced during manufacture rather than through ground contamination. This suggests that the Herjolfsnes weavers created a non-vegetation-based red dye from a local source of mineral ferric oxide. Although iron was historically used as a mordant for dyes, the Herjolfsnes samples are believed to be the only known instance of medieval Europeans using the mineral to create the red dye itself, presumably in the absence of the madder plant that was commonly used to make red dye back in Europe. In one sense, the quality, innovation and fashion awareness shown in the Herjolfsnes garments throw even more mystery on the disappearance of the settlement and the Norse colony. As Helge Ingstad observed, "Many of these garments were not worn by common people of Europe, but only by the well-to-do middle class. Altogether the finds testify to a cultivated and fairly prosperous community; certainly not to a people on the brink of extinction. By the time of the Danish-Norwegian re-colonization of Greenland starting in the 18th century, the former site of Herjolfsnes was Woven into the Earth: Textile Finds in Norse Greenland as Ikigait by local Inuit Greenlanders. The community was abandoned at some point in the early 20th century, with the inhabitants perhaps having moved to nearby Narsarmijit on the other side of the fjord. A few concrete and wooden foundations from the Woven into the Earth: Textile Finds in Norse Greenland can be seen in current photographs of the site. In The Greenlandersa historical fiction novel by Jane SmileyHerjolfsnes is depicted as being set apart from the other districts in the Eastern Settlement owing to its location and its wealthy inhabitants, who wore distinct clothing and took pride in their greater knowledge of the outside world. From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. John's: Breakwater, pg. Martin's,pg. Hurst, pg. Abandoned sites in Greenland. Greenlandic Inuit Danish. Nipisat Island. Clavering Island Pituffik Sabine Island. Camp Century Camp Fistclench.