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Ethnic Tourism and the Kayan Long-Neck Tribe in Mae Hong Son, Thailand

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Ethnic Tourism and the Kayan Long-Neck Tribe in Mae Hong Son, Thailand Ethnic Tourism and the Kayan Long-Neck Tribe in Mae Hong Son, Thailand Jinranai Ismail Master of Arts in Asian and Pacific Studies Victoria University 2008 Ethnic Tourism and the Kayan Long-Neck Tribe in Mae Hong Son, Thailand Jinranai Ismail A minor thesis submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts (Asian and Pacific Studies – General Stream) School of Social Sciences Faculty of Arts, Education &Human Development Victoria University 2008 i Tourism ... to become one of the world’s largest industries – sponsored by governments, regulated by international agencies, and supported by multinational enterprises as well as local businesses – presupposes that tourism is a positive or beneficial force. But whom does it benefit? (Smith 1978: 4) ABSTRACT The long-neck Kayans have long been subjected to scrutiny by both Thai and foreign writers. This study traces the historical existence of the Kayans in Burma and their status as refugees within Thailand. Since the arrival of the first group of Kayans in late 1984, this tribe have been of interest to the provincial government of Mae Hong Son, the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees, NGOs and tourism developers. All of these groups, in one way or another, claim to be protecting the interest of the Kayans. This thesis investigates the validity of claims that Kayan interests are being protected. It further questions the government’s move to centralise the Kayans into one settlement at Huay Pu Kaeng. I argue that the Kayan race is the most marginal beneficiary of the Kayan ethnic tourism and illustrate how their vulnerability has been exploited both by government agencies and tourism developers. Keywords : Kayan long-neck, ethnic tourism, human zoo, relocation, government of Mae Hong Son, stakeholders, exploitation ii DECLARATION I hereby declare that this submission is my own work and that, to the best of my knowledge and belief, it contains no material previously published or written by another person nor material which to a substantial extent has been accepted for the award of any other degree or diploma of the university or other institute of higher learning, except where due acknowledgment has been made in the text. .................................................................. ............................................................... Jinranai Ismail Date iii ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Firstly, I would like to thank my Supervisor, Dr. Russell Wright without whose encouragement, guidance and support, I would not be able to complete all the tasks required to complete this thesis. My grateful thanks also to the following people: The Governor of Mae Hong Son province, Mr. Thongchai Wongrientong, for granting me an audience, and in-depth interiew of the current situation with the hill tribes of Mae Hong Son. Mr. Waritchart Panchoo, Deputy District Officer of Mae Hong Son province and head of the Security Unit, who has been so supportive during my fieldwork, freely giving his advice and briefs of the refugee situation in Mae Hong Son, and supplying me with government publications on Kayan issues. Mr. Chartchay Noisakul, Director of Education, Mae Hong Son Municipality, with whom I spent many sessions discussing ethnic minorities issues, introducing me to other personalities of interest for my research and supplying me with materials on historical and current affairs in Mae Hong Son. Dr. Kwanchewan Buadaeng, Researcher and Senior Lecturer, Faculty of Social Sciences, Chiang Mai University, for sharing her ideas on the issues of ethnic groups in Thailand and providing me numerous materials and books on refugee matters. Ms. Urara Furukawa, Head of UNHCR, Mae Hong Son office, for briefing me on the role of UNHCR in Mae Hong Son and for arranging an in-depth interview with the UNHCR Protection Officer. Miss Phitsanee Khamnoi, my former lecture-mate at Rajabhat Chiang Mai University, for assisting in making contacts with the Mae Hong Son provincial office for securing official approval to conduct my fieldwork with the Kayans in Mae Hong Son. Kayan friends, who were my guides to the Kayan settlement at Huay Pu Kaeng, and assisting and directing me to suitable Kayan participants for my in-depth interviews. All the participants, Kayans, Thais and foreigners who had kindly consented to participate in the in-depth interviews. My husband Mohamad Ismail, for his support throughout my graduate career and who has been my company on my fieldtrip to Mae Hong Son, being my motorcycle rider, photographer and proof-reader of the finished product. My parents Sawang Chainiwayt and Pan Panya for their concern about my safety when I was doing my fieldwork at the Thai-Burma border area. iv TABLE OF CONTENTS ABSTRACT........................................................................................................................ i DECLARATION............................................................................................................... ii ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ............................................................................................iii TABLE OF CONTENTS ................................................................................................ iv LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS AND TABLES ............................................................... iv Introduction: Thai Tourism and The Kayan ................................................................. 1 News Domains: Methodology and Background to the Study......................................... 7 Limits of the study .......................................................................................................... 9 Chapter 1 – The Kayan: Identity, Genealogy, History................................................ 11 The Kayans in Thailand: Neck-ring culture and tourism.............................................. 14 In memory of the dragon mother .................................................................................. 15 Kayan costume and adornments – the past and the present.......................................... 19 Kayan rituals and ceremonial practices ........................................................................ 24 Chapter 2 - Inside Ethnic Tourism................................................................................ 31 Ethnic tourism............................................................................................................... 31 Tourisms’ neo-colonialists............................................................................................ 33 Socio-cultural impact.................................................................................................... 36 Cultural commodification and authenticity .................................................................. 39 Exploitation................................................................................................................... 42 Conclusion .................................................................................................................... 44 Chapter 3 - Locating The Kayan Today....................................................................... 46 The original Huay Pu Kaeng village............................................................................. 46 The new addition to Huay Pu Kaeng village ................................................................ 50 Chapter 4 – Cultural Impact and Kayan Ethnic Tourism in Mae Hong Son........... 53 Blessings of the neck-ring............................................................................................. 55 Kayan Ethnic Tourism: a neo colonial enterprise?....................................................... 57 Staging Authenticity ..................................................................................................... 60 Changes in gender roles and occupations ..................................................................... 62 Illusions of Opportunities and Freedom ....................................................................... 63 CHAPTER 5 – Relocation, Tourism, Politics............................................................... 67 The opening of the new settlement at Huay Pu Kaeng: “The Village for the Preservation of Kayan’s Traditional Way of Life and the Security of Mae Hong Son” ....................................................................................................................................... 67 Resettling the Kayan..................................................................................................... 68 Ensuing headaches........................................................................................................ 71 Misery in the “promised Land”..................................................................................... 74 Tale of a Wall hanging.................................................................................................. 75 Chapter 6 – Re-inventing the Kayan: ........................................................................... 77 Bibliography.................................................................................................................... 82 v LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS AND TABLES Illustrations Figure 1: Location map of Kayan villages in Mae Hong Son ............................................ 6 Figure 2: Kayan’s original homeland in Burma ............................................................... 13 Figure 3: Kayan women and a Burmanised Kayan woman in their traditional clothes, 1920s................................................................................................................................
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