Photograph by Franck Mura Fashion. Beauty. Business. DAILY EDITION29JUNE2016 Approach Blanket FASHION For more resort, see pages 4to6. indeed free of boundaries. — proving that her take onfashion is a fishnetdress andwithaclochehat ponchos, thelatter shown here over garb to sportswear Nineties to Mexican Her references ranged from military resort collection. and eras inherSacai Chitose Abe crossed borders, cultures

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BUSINESS But Parker also alluded to the chal- lenges in the market and promised Nike would push ahead. “The backdrop of our business is more OUT THIS WEEK IN Nike Profits Hit dynamic than it’s ever been,” he said. “But Nike wins because we just don’t adapt to these forces, we create and shape the change. We lead…. In retail, our industry is in the early stages of By Clearance unprecedented transformation. Mobile innovation and personal services are dominating the landscape. That’s why ● Shares also slipped 5.8 percent offers more advanced wicking and we invest in integrating digital and phys- stretching and will be showcased in the ical retail seamlessly, giving our consum- in after-hours trading. soccer, track and field and basketball ers better access to the products they BY EVAN CLARK events. want and while we are working even Nike has embraced sport as its closer with our best wholesale partners, Nike Inc.’s Mark Parker is playing the lodestar. who share our vision for the future of long game, focusing on broader indus- “We are all seeing the growing power retail.” try evolution while trying to brush past of sports,” Parker said. “Participation is The ceo said the company has areas weaker fourth-quarter profits. increasing all over the world. People are to work on, but is keeping the pressure The activewear giant’s fourth-quar- leading healthier, more active lives. At on his team, noting, “nobody is more ter net income fell 2.2 percent to $846 the same time, the rise in sport culture demanding of our business and we are million from $865 million a year earlier is bringing fitness and style together. internally.” as revenues came in slightly lower than Profoundly influencing what we all wear “While outside of Nike we face macro- expected and North American clearance every day.” economic and geopolitical volatility, our sales weighed on results. Nike is among complete offense gives us our greatest the brands taking a hit by the Sports LeBron James competitive advantage,” Parker said. Authority liquidation. featured in Nike’s ad “The complete offense puts the con- Neo Retro Earnings per diluted share were flat at campaign for Tech sumer at the center of our business.” ● New York’s men’s designers get 49 cents — 1 cent ahead of the 48 cents Knit Apparel. There was no mention on the call of ready for fashion week. Wall Street projected. And gross margins the economic ripples from the U.K. vote slipped 30 basis points to 45.9 percent to exit the European Union, which has Walter Loeb, of sales. Revenues for the three months injected a big does of uncertainty in Dean of Retail ended May 31 increased 6 percent to the market. But Parker promised a “full ● Lessons from one of the $8.24 billion — $40 million shy of the pipeline of innovation” in this fiscal year $8.28 billion analysts projected. with a broad growth agenda. industry’s leading thinkers. Shares of the company dropped 6.4 “Our focus will be to continue to drive percent to $49.68 in after-hours trad- our potential across and Florals for Fall ing as investors digested the quarterly Western Europe, to expand our leader- ● Flowers blossom all year round, on update. ship in China and across our emerging floaty dresses to coats. For the full year, Nike’s earnings markets, to unleash the power of the increased 14.9 percent to $3.76 billion Jordan Brand across multiple categories, as sales revenues gained 5.8 percent to to accelerate our complete women’s The New Place Vendôme $32.38 billion. business…. And specifically, how will we ● The Ritz renovation anchors ’ Parker, who is pushing to hit $50 get there? We invest in the transforma- rejuvenated shopping square. billion in revenues by 2020, stood by the tion of the marketplace through Nike. company’s long-term growth plans on com and stronger executions with our PLUS: a conference call with analysts, saying, best wholesale partners.” ● Bridget Foley’s Diary “This is a key moment to look ahead. To As of the end of the year, the closely ● focus on the opportunities in front of watched Nike brand future orders for Report Card us.” footwear and apparel scheduled to be ● Social Studies The company is currently gearing up delivered in the June-November period for the Summer Olympic Games in Rio totaled $14.9 billion, 8 percent higher in August when it plans to highlight its than a year earlier or an 11 percent gain “F—k democracy, we’re back in Aeroswift technology in apparel, which on currency neutral basis. the Middle Ages. For me, it’s a step backwards.” — ADRIAN JOFFE ON THE MARKETS THE BREXIT VOTE. Under Armour Opens New Global Stock Tracker Manufacturing, Innovation Lab As of close June 28, 2016 ADVANCERS ● The 35,000-square-foot UA product for athletes around the globe,” printing and rapid prototyping, where PVH Corp. Lighthouse is located in said Kevin Plank, chief executive officer ideas are turned into tangible products; +5.50% and cofounder of Under Armour. “By apparel and footwear prototyping, Baltimore. Vince Holding Corp. coupling incredible machinery, tech- where designers and developers test +4.71% BY JEAN E. PALMIERI nologies and material sourcing under and refine products and processes, and one roof, UA Lighthouse will offer the creation of apparel and footwear Under Armour Inc. immediacy in manufacturing and will pilot lines. +4.45% allow us to be more responsive to the Under Armour has partnered with Kate Spade & Co. Under Armour has opened a facility in needs of athletes in local community. Dow Chemical Company, Huntsman, +4.14% its hometown of Baltimore devoted to This venture will allow Under Armour Lectra, Bemis, Epson, Desma, 3dMD, Inter Parfums Inc. manufacturing and design innovation. to make product better, faster and more and the University of Maryland’s Engi- +4.13% The 35,000-square-foot facility, efficiently while working hand-in-hand neering Department on the facility. called the UA Lighthouse, is located with our manufacturing and factory “Under Armour’s approach to open in Baltimore’s City Garage, a location partners across the world.” innovation and collaboration can be DECLINERS that also houses The Foundery, which The processes and technology seen through our strategic partnerships provides community access to indus- developed in the UA Lighthouse will brought to life within UA Lighthouse,” The Bon-Ton Stores Inc. trial-grade tools and training, and Main be shared with the company’s facto- said Kevin Haley, president of product -1.45% Street, an incubator for early-stage ries and facilities around the world to and innovation for Under Armour. Elizabeth Arden Inc. companies with market-ready ideas and improve speed-to-market and respon- “In this center, we will establish new -0.29% products. siveness for apparel and footwear. industry standards for design and man- Express Inc. “As Under Armour celebrates 20 Among the technologies that will be ufacturing that will elevate our shared -0.07% years in business, we are more com- used are 3-D design and body scan- supply chain partners worldwide and mitted than ever to staying ahead of ning, which will allow for the design lead the advancement of product across the curve and creating cutting-edge of custom footwear and apparel; 3-D our company.” 4 29 JUNE 2016

Sacai Resort Now Maison Margiela

Maison Margiela “Cross-pollination,” the publicists at Maison Margiela (all in white lab coats) said repeatedly as they guided a journalist through the racks at its Paris showroom, with its chandeliers veiled in cotton voile and its black-and-white carpet bearing a ghostly pattern of Ver- sailles parquet. Lo and behold the model photographed wearing look Kenzo number one wore a beekeeper helmet. Cheeky, that John Galliano, Shown alongside the men’s spring collection, the Kenzo resort line offering a visual reminder that details in his couture trickle down into was inspired by the nightclub scene of the Nineties. Sacai the ready-to-wear, including pre-collections. Humberto Leon and Carol Lim cited a litany of venues in their “To be modern is to be free,” said Chitose Abe as she presented Pleats, jacquards and little black dresses all figured in this fresh show notes: Sound Factory, Area, Tunnel and Limelight, among her resort line for Sacai in a Paris showroom. She was talking about and sprightly offer, vaguely Seventies at times with its suede tunics others. They secured the rights to original club flyers and worked her borderless approach, which merged the utilitarian shapes of and narrow polo dresses; occasionally homespun Fifties with its them into busy prints, like the magnified snakeskin that was used for Nineties sportswear and army issue with folkloric touches such as tweed skirts and satin blouses in Butter Mints candy colors. Except a series of slipdresses worn with high black socks. Mexican ponchos and Afghan belt detailing. for buttoned trenchcoats sliced up the front with a razor, and striped Many looks were studded with oversize eyelets, which also Hoodies were spliced with embroidered organdy panels, while shirts patched together into shift dresses — errant collars here, extra cropped up on denim jackets, tops, pants and over-the-knee coats Windbreakers with chunky zippers came overlaid with panels of sleeves there — resort overall offered less deconstruction and more cinched with jeweled chains. The links took the collection in a more tweed. Oversize silhouettes ruled with items such as denim jacquard luxe, as Galliano rendered anoraks in suede or lemon yellow organza, dressed-up direction, as did a selection of colorful ribbed knits and smocks, a beige raincoat-cum-parka and a fringed multicolored or a short toggle coat in double-faced cashmere. long coats with gold side buckles. poncho worn over a green fishnet dress. The vast showroom also presented more commercial interpre- For pure hedonism, the duo went down the rainbow-raver route Decorative effects added a feminine to the sporty silhou- tations of the British designer’s ideas, some from several seasons with a multicolored striped sweater and a cartoonish print featuring ettes. Abe worked a Hawaiian flower print into a yellow-and-blue lace back, including handsome tuxedos and T-shirt dresses dangling bits trippy details. Cropped leather jackets and A-line minis, worn with and reinterpreted a crochet patchwork quilt as a colorful print on of lingerie. Jutting kerchiefs made a comeback, too, blending in just wedge boots, brought to mind the Spice Girls — the decade’s ultimate lace and chiffon. — JOELLE DIDERICH fine. — MILES SOCHA girl group. — J.D. Sacai photograph by Franck Mura Franck by Sacai photograph 29 JUNE 2016 5

Resort Now Paule Ka Maison Rabih Karen Walker Kayrouz

Paule Ka A year into her tenure as creative director of Paule Ka, Alithia Spuri-Zampetti is growing increasingly confident in the role. Her resort line revolved around a safari theme, marking a departure from the house’s tradition and the retro couture inspirations of her earlier collections. The vintage-inspired looks — think trapeze coats and hourglass dresses — were still there, but there were lighter pieces, too, and the color palette was more experimental, with spice tones adding an exotic touch. The designer used a breezy cotton voile for frilled summer dresses in apple green or a lipstick leopard print, and chose a crisp poplin for a roomy saffron shirtdress. Spuri-Zampetti also included heavier items such as a coat and dress in tiger-print jacquard. She continued to pad out the label’s occasion wear, with dresses featuring colorful strips of satin looped through the shoulders and waist. A selection of looks were rendered in white and could form the basis of a future bridal collection, she said. — J.D.

Zuhair Murad

Zuhair Murad An imaginary conversation between British photographer David Hamilton and French artist Henri Rousseau was the starting point for Zuhair Murad’s Maison Rabih Kayrouz handcraft-intensive collection. The line split into innocent pastel concoctions Rabih Kayrouz opted out of a theme for his resort collection, instead taking in Chantilly lace, dotted plumeti tulle and macramé inspired by Hamilton’s a focused approach to clothes in a bid to create wardrobe building blocks. iconic soft-focused Seventies imagery, and structured, exotic-print jacquard The designer worked from simple shapes – a shirtdress, a split coat or a Karen Walker jackets and gowns galore, nodding to Rousseau’s fantasy-jungle world. trapezoidal evening gown – inspired by the functionality of uniforms. Karen Walker updated her folk-meets-utility aesthetic with a Spanish flair Even in his newfound prêt-à-porter mode, the Lebanese couturier likes to The same item was rendered in multiple fabrics. For everyday wear, for resort. Though the reference to Spain led to some typical, hyper-fem- ladle on the sugar and spice. The majority of the dress-centric line focused there was cotton, poplin or washed taffeta in cream, khaki or black. For inine looks — think ruffled bell sleeves, cinched waists and sensual, on demi-couture creations in delicate skin-baring fabrics for the hour, special occasions, he turned to satin in neon bright tones. “All of a sudden, off-the-shoulder silhouettes — it came into play in a masculine way as well. ranging from summery “sangallo” broderie anglaise minis embellished with the same item of clothing has two different functions,” he explained. Inspired by images of strong women during the Spanish Civil War, Walker beads, sequins and rhinestones to an elaborate black tulle dress in exotic While avoiding purely decorative effects, Kayrouz did not shirk from did voluminous men’s shirting, loose khaki trousers, a camouflage-printed appliqué motifs with thread and sequin embroidery. dramatic gestures. Sleeves were covered in sculptural knots, while coats trenchcoat and a few looks in bleached, selvage denim with frayed edges The closest this unapologetically feminine collection got to casual was and dresses sprouted oversize pockets. Meanwhile, evening gowns used — creating an ease and practicality to the looks that could take her wom- in the jet-embroidered denim, Seventies-inspired boho crochet knits in acres of fabric in minimalist folds. en (or “freedom fighters,” as she called them) throughout their whole day. tropical bead embroidery and pretty raffia-embroidered basics in black, Despite their understated approach, these outfits were not for shrinking The collection “is really about women getting on with life no matter peacock-blue or purple cotton — the plain fabric being a first for the label. violets. Think of them more as a canvas for confident women to shine. what,” Walker said. “That same functionality is always present in our But for someone who has Jennifer Lopez on speed dial, one wouldn’t expect — JOELLE DIDERICH work.” — KRISTI GARCED anything less. — KATYA FOREMAN 6 29 JUNE 2016

Resort Now Andrew Gn Au Jour Le Jour Barbara Bui

Andrew Gn Amid conversations about nations dissolving alliances and building barriers, Andrew Gn offered some escapism: a collection that offered a colorful “collage of world culture.” “It’s all about travel,” said Gn who chose to keep the cuts simple and let the prints and handiwork do all the talking. The designer brought on the busy, clashing a micro-sequin maxiskirt in a vibrant Kilim pattern with a blouse in bold Mayan motifs and paisley beaded neckline. Another highlight: a sleeveless white silk cocktail dress in a blaze of Ikat-inspired fils coupés motifs. He toned it down with black tweed suits worked in a trellis-like grid of rosebuds, folky peasant tops and zippered white tunics decorated with hand-painted birds, butterflies and dragonflies, a modern spin on the illustrated works of Buffon, the pioneering 18th-century French naturalist. It all successfully combined polish with around-the-world spice. — K.F.

Stella Jean

Barbara Bui Au Jour Le Jour Barbara Bui sought to capture the kind of laid-back attitude and Lati- Creative directors Mirko Fontana and Diego Marquez raided sportswear no spirit one would find in Florida, pepped up with vitamin hues and for resort. Shirts had chunky zippered closures; dresses, blouses and mood-booster tropical prints. “With everything that’s happened, it’s kind of jumpsuits featured huge grommets threaded with ribbons. Nylon patch- what we need right now,” said the designer, nodding to a bright coral silk work Windbreakers came embellished with the brand’s new graphic logo — cady suit with slouchy drawstring pants “to be worn with flat sandals.” Stella Jean paired, in smart contrast, with brocade jacquard pants. But many looks still There was no letting go of her signature leather “rock-chic” — or make Stella Jean played with layering for resort. The designer developed a range had a feminine feel, embellished as they were with sweet floral embroider- that “Miami Vice” — staples, though, with short-sleeved bombers and of cotton shirtdresses, decorated with stripes or micro checks, that she ies and prints (one jumpsuit was split between two different patterns, one LBDs in geometric, lasercut motifs and “armorlike” eyelet embroidery showed under a clean Mikado silk bustier dress or over a plissé skirt. on each side). Washed denim was crafted for girly flared pants. lending a hard edge. “We used different hand techniques to create a The brand’s signature flared skirt, crafted this season from South Afri- For dress-up, the sporty gave way to sequins, arranged in stripes and summery take on leather, be it an ethnic or rock ‘n’ roll vibe,” Bui said. can-patterned fabrics, was juxtaposed throughout the lineup with mascu- blooms on the skirt of one midi slipdress, or fully covering a silver jumpsuit The designer’s ornamental mood extended to her bags, which feature line silhouettes, including a sharply striped suit and fluid pajama-inspired for disco-inspired glam. interchangeable straps, and shoes, as well as to the line’s belts, used to ensembles. Outerwear ran the gamut from printed cotton coats to a sporty — ALESSANDRA TURRA tame the voluminous color-drenched jersey dresses. — KATYA FOREMAN PVC raincoat. — A.T. 29 JUNE 2016 7

BEAUTY “We were approached by our marketing FASHION team when we were planning this launch for the lipsticks and they asked us for the S&P Downgraded Shiseido Ups Digital Game usual fare. They wanted a microsite that they can patch onto existing sites that would Bon-Ton Stores’ give info about lipstick and the science With ‘Rouge Rouge Kiss Me’ and tech behind it,” Abu-Nimah said. After reviewing the request with the creative and Corporate ● The feature allows two Burberry Kisses — the technology created public relations teams, she realized this was people to kiss their by Burberry and Google three years ago something that wasn’t going to resonate Credit Rating that lets people send virtual kisses — it is. with anyone. The company could no longer smartphone screens Burberry Kisses allowed a person to send a be passive and just disseminate information. ● The rating’s agency placed its simultaneously to create a digital kiss, but Abu-Nimah wants two peo- “Consumers don’t go to web sites to outlook at “negative” and said it virtual kiss GIF. ple to kiss their smartphones at the exact learn about lipsticks,” she said with a laugh, same time and turn their unique kiss prints adding that developing a digital experience believes the company’s capital BY RACHEL STRUGATZ into fun, animated art (when asked, Abu-Ni- that was more in line with the way people structure is unsustainable. mah said he was unfamiliar with Burberry connect with their smartphones and friends BY VICKI M. YOUNG Shiseido today launched its most kitschy Kisses, while Daisuke Sakai, cofounder of — with a lipstick tie-in — was the solution. — and ambitious — digital marketing play to TeamLab, said he had heard of it, but never The idea is to make this a long-term pro- date. tried it out). motion (and hopefully evolve the technol- Shiseido’s new digital experience, Rouge Kiss Me takes Burberry’s notion of a “vir- ogy to work with other products), Abu-Ni- Rouge Kiss Me, which corresponds with the tual kiss” a step further, which is unusual for mah noted, as well as extend the launch of S&P Global Ratings has downgraded The Bon- global launch of its 16-color Rouge Rouge lip- a brand not known for its digital prowess. the Rouge Rouge line into New York Fashion Ton Stores Inc. due to its perceived weakened stick collection coming out Friday, stemmed But Abu-Nimah, who joined Shiseido in the Week with corresponding offline and con- liquidity. from the desire to humanize technology and top creative spot almost a year ago, wants tinued online initiatives. The ratings agency on Monday said the create an interactive moment between two to change that. Rouge Rouge is the first big Kiss Me goes live today in Japanese, Chi- lowered corporate credit rating to “CCC” from people — in real-time. initiative, especially from a digital perspec- nese, English and French. “CCC+,” noting that the ending of a previously Ruba Abu-Nimah, global creative director tive, that the brand has executed under her announced sale-and-leaseback agreement of Shiseido, explained to WWD that the tenure. suggested “weakened liquidity as a result of campaign encourages two people — who significant debt maturity and our expectation might be anywhere from different rooms for a protracted weakness in operating results.” to on different continents — to kiss their The agency also said it believes the company’s smartphone screens simultaneously to capital structure is unsustainable, and that there create a virtual kiss. Created in partnership is “significant refinancing risk for upcoming with Tokyo-based creative firm TeamLab, debt maturities absent meaningful performance the first person who wants to kiss someone improvement.” visits rougerougekissme-shiseido.com and More notably, the agency said it placed the enters their name so a personalized link is outlook at “negative,” reflecting the view that generated for them to send to whomever a “default could occur in the next 12 months, they wish to kiss. From here, the receiver given the company’s eroding liquidity following gets the link via text or e-mail, clicks it and the termination of the company’s sale-leaseback once both people arrive at the site, they transaction and our expectation for protracted pick the shade of Rouge Rouge they want weakness in the operating environment.” their kiss to appear in and a countdown In the agency’s report, the credit team noted will begin. Once both people “kiss” each the refinancing risk connected with an upcom- Shiseido’s Rouge Rouge other, the two lipstick marks are captured Kiss Me lets two people ing debt maturity within 12 months “absent a on-screen together and creators can design create a virtual kiss GIF meaningful turnaround in operating results.” and personalize a “Kiss Monster” GIF to and image. The S&P team said it was projecting that the share over a text, e-mail or the social media “decline in customer traffic will persist and platform of their choice. adjusted EBITDA margins will be constrained by “To share the moment is the point, and the ongoing highly promotional environment.” It social media is getting faster and faster so also said that it believes the retailer will generate we thought it should be in real-time,” she “significant negative free operating cash flow explained. in 2016,” leading the company to increase its If Rouge Rouge Kiss Me sounds similar to dependence on its asset-backed revolver to fund operations and cash interest obligations. The upcoming debt that matures in 2017 is a $330 million, with $57 million outstanding, sec- FASHION A look at Gucci Garden. ond-lien note that matures in July 2017. of red stars. The S&P cited Kohl’s Corp., J.C. Penney Co. Gucci to Unveil Along with a range of staples such as Inc., Dillard’s Inc. and Macy’s Inc. as competi- T-shirts, sweatshirts and flared jeans, tors, and said “we do not foresee any material Women’s Capsule “Gucci Garden” includes a pleated dress cut improvement to Bon-Ton’s competitive position at the ankle, a pleated miniskirt, as well as or operating scale over the next year given its shorts, all crafted from crepe de chine. For recent results and the negative trends in the Collection a sporty yet glamorous touch, a reversible operating environment.” bomber jacket is embellished with knitted The credit analysts further explained, “We ● The collection will be Lurex details, and a reversible elongated think apparel purchases are highly discretionary available online only from cardigan features a printed silk external and operating performance remains vulnerable layer. to economic conditions.” They went on to note July 5. The new pattern also appears on the that the changes are less about cyclical head- BY ALESSANDRA TURRA Dionysus bag, available in thee sizes, on a winds and more about secular change, with zippered wallet and on a silk scarf. Foot- consumers increasingly shifting their purchases wear includes low-top sneakers and mules online because of convenience, selection and with Gucci’s signature horse bit. price transparency. MILAN — Gucci is about to launch a The collection, which comes with In deciding to downgrade Bon-Ton’s corpo- women’s collection that will be available customized packaging, will be available rate rating, the credit analysts presumed an exclusively online at gucci.com from July for a limited period, and customers will operating environment in which U.S. economic 5. Shipments will be made to the U.S., be able to place orders from both their growth of 2.3 percent in 2016, GDP growth of Canada, Continental Europe, United Arab personal devices and iPads inside the Gucci 2.5 percent in 2017, and single-digit declines in Emirates, Japan, Korea and Australia. boutiques. comparable-store sales. Called “Gucci Garden,” the collection Michele has utilized a variety of natural Following the S&P downgrade, Bon-Ton on includes ready-to-wear and accessories and other symbols in both his women’s Tuesday reaffirmed its guidance for fiscal 2016 showing a new pattern conceived by and men’s wear ever since he took over and said it continues to expect adjusted EBITDA the brand’s creative director Alessandro the creative reins of the house in January at between $130 million to $140 million. The Michele. The motif features a range of 2015. His signature since then has become loss per diluted share is expected at between 95 botanical elements combined with animals, the elaborately decorated designs featuring cents to $1.45. The company is also presuming a including the bee, which is becoming a everything from animals to cartoon figures. comparable-sales performance ranging from flat key symbol for the brand. Presented on At his men’s wear show in Milan earlier this to a decrease of 1 percent. both black and an ivory backgrounds, the month, the designer sent out a series of Kathryn Bufano, president and chief oper- pattern, which references antique oil paint- sweaters featuring Donald Duck, one of his ating officer, said the company is exploring ings, shows a pink border edged with a line favorite cartoon characters growing up. options to pay down its senior notes due in 2017. 8 29 JUNE 2016

BUSINESS Trump Rails Against Trade in Policy Speech ● The presumptive Republican when she was Secretary of State, reiterated “We need bilateral trade deals. We do not nominee unveiled a her opposition to the trade pact on Monday need to enter into another massive, interna- and pledged to appoint a special trade pros- tional agreement that ties us up and binds us new seven-point trade ecutor to enforce trade deals and fight unfair down like TPP does.” enforcement agenda Tuesday. practices. Trade ministers signed TPP in early It was unclear how many actions on February and it now must be ratified by the Donald Trump BY KRISTI ELLIS Trump’s agenda he could take under 12 countries. TPP includes the U.S., Australia, executive authority and unilaterally without Japan, Mexico, Canada, Vietnam, Malaysia, WASHINGTON — Donald Trump, the approval from Congress. Peru, Singapore, Chile, Brunei and New Zea- in order take unfair advantage of the U.S., presumptive Republican nominee, unveiled “A Trump administration will change our land, and aims to remove barriers to trade to which is many countries, will be met with… a trade enforcement plan Tuesday, vowing failed trade policies and I mean quickly,” he encompass nearly 40 percent of the world’s [punitive action] including tariffs and taxes,” to withdraw the U.S. from the 12-nation said in unveiling the steps he would pursue gross domestic product if enacted. Trump said. Trans-Pacific Partnership trade deal, label to bring back jobs lost to global trade and Three steps in his trade enforcement plan Trump also said he would use every legal China a currency manipulator and renegoti- imports. were aimed at China. One included instruct- tool to remedy trade disputes with China and ate the North American Free Trade Agree- Topping his list was a vow to withdraw the ing his Treasury Secretary to label China go after the country if it does not stop its “ille- ment if elected. U.S. from TPP. He called the trade deal a “dan- a currency manipulator, an action he said gal activities, including its theft of American Trump, who has railed against global trade ger” and asserted it would be a “death blow “should have been done years ago.” trade secrets.” and its impact on U.S. jobs since launching for American manufacturing” by empowering The Obama administration has consistently He also said he would instruct the U.S. his bid for the presidency last year, outlined an international tribunal that he said would declined to cite China for currency manipu- Trade Representative to file trade cases a trade enforcement agenda that he will put the interests of foreign countries above lation, which could lead to sanctions at the against China, which the Obama administra- pursue if elected at a campaign event in those of the U.S., open the U.S. market to World Trade Organization, opting instead to tion has done as well. Pennsylvania. currency “cheaters” and open markets to use diplomatic tools to prod China into letting Trump also pledged to immediately rene- Presumptive Democratic presidential subsidized and cheap foreign imports. its currency appreciate. gotiate the terms of NAFTA with Mexico nominee Hillary Clinton, who supported TPP “There is no way to fix TPP,” Trump said. “Any country that devalues their currency and Canada.

FASHION Coco Rocha Takes Ownership Stake in Nomad Mgmt

● The model’s role will be brand things they didn’t like and thought could be done supporters and spoke directly with congressmen, best guidance I possibly can,” she said. director for the agency. better. “The market has changed since the Nineties. helping them draft new legislation which was She also plans to get involved in scouting, which The market is flooded with a lot of models. It’s sadly passed in 2013. That law doesn’t say that underage has changed dramatically since she BY LISA LOCKWOOD become a volume business now, and agencies keep models can’t work, but if they’re under 16, they’re was discovered. growing and growing and it’s about margins and paid correctly, they’re chaperoned on set, have “There are so many means and ways to approach Coca Rocha is putting her modeling clout to work. profits. It’s less personal. We were hoping to do food available and that 15 percent of their money girls. When I started, pretty much a scout had to Known for standing up for models’ rights, something together to find a way to change that. goes into a savings account, she said. “It’s not about find you on the street. Nowadays, it’s Snapchat, 27-year-old Rocha has teamed with industry There’s an old guard in modeling. We wanted to a girl can’t be young. They just have to have the Instagram, Vine, Weibo in China, there are so many veterans Damon Rutland and Roman Young, along apply new thinking,” he said. right laws enforced,” said Rocha. ways to do it. Our top models right now came from with her husband and longtime collaborator James In her new role, Rocha will work with models to What Rocha loves about modeling right now is being famous on TV. The next generation of girls Conran, in Nomad Mgmt, a New York modeling help them develop strategies for their careers. “It’s there are many different body types. “Most agencies will come from being famous on the Internet,” she agency. important that they have a personal relationship have a variety of girls, and we’ll have a variety of said. “I’m always looking for girls who treat this as Rocha and Conran have taken a management with their managers,” she said. “People who rooted girls. Nowadays we have to break the molds to what a business, not just a fun lifestyle. A sneaky way of and ownership stake in Nomad, which was founded for me and were impactful in my career knew it means to be a model in 2016,” she said. “If you’re doing that is check their social media. How do they by Rutland and Young in 2001, who maintain a everything about me. They knew my goals, my a skinny little girl, it doesn’t mean you have an come across and present themselves?” majority stake. Nomad will represent Rocha for likes, my dislikes, what I wanted out of my career. eating disorder.” Rocha said Nomad will offer sessions on healthy modeling. Previously, she was represented by IMG. That worked so well for me and that’s what our girls Agencies are pushing girls to lose weight, but eating and keeping oneself fit. “We’re going to WME/IMG will continue to represent Rocha in her need.” she said you wouldn’t really do that to someone have these summits, even with accountants. I told entertainment deals. As an advocate for models’ rights, she was you care about. “You really have to judge each girl my personal accountant that I’d love for him to sit Young actually discovered Rocha at a models’ instrumental in raising awareness for underage personally. I’m excited to be the big sister to these down and explain [to the models] the books and convention in Edmonton, Canada, when she was 14, models, which, for decades, had gone unnoticed girls. If they have any questions, they’ll hopefully how they keep them, and taxes, and what questions and they have worked together for many years. by law makers and the public. She helped mobilize come to me and I’ll give them the best answers and you should ask. As boring as the subject could be, With the expansion and addition of new owners it’s so important to learn early on in your career. In and managers, Nomad, which had been a model the first few years, I knew nothing about my books. management firm, becomes a full-fledged global I wish someone had taken me aside and taught booking agency. In addition to Rocha, Nomad rep- me. The same goes to styling and how to present resents 55-60 models, including Soo Joo Park, Sung yourself to a new client, working on your attitude, if Hee Kim, Matthew Hitt and Sung Jin Park. a girl has issues with eating, you have to take care of Rocha will serve as brand director for the agency them. You have to help them and guide them.” and will be personally available to each client as As for her take on Photoshopping (she previously a mentor and for career guidance, a role she has lashed out at Elle Brazil for manipulating a cover unofficially assumed for many models for years. to make it appear she was nearly nude), she said, “Having worked with many of the world’s top “Photoshop is an art. There’s a fine line that you modeling agencies for the last decade, I’ve seen shouldn’t cross.” She said she thinks it’s OK to what works and doesn’t work in managing a remove pimples so a model doesn’t look like she model’s career. In the past I’ve openly appealed just got off a plane, but some people take it to an to industry leaders for more ethical treatment extreme. of underage models, transparent accounting Asked if she still sees herself doing as much mod- practices and I’ve spoken out regarding pressures eling now that she’s got a management role, she and unhealthy expectations too often projected on didn’t hesitate. “For sure. Working alongside the models working today,” said Rocha. She has per- talent, there’s no reason, why not. It’s a great way sonally mentored models one-on-one and in group to keep your eyes open and your ears open. I love situations while she’s been at agencies. what I do. I love modeling, and I want other girls to Rutland, managing director, said that Rocha’s enjoy the experience,” she said. “I won’t necessarily success in the modeling world far exceeds his own be sitting at the desk and booking jobs. I’m there background as a model. “To bring that perspective to assist in any possible way and giving a model’s over the last 14 to 15 years is invaluable and it com- perspective to all this.” plements exactly where we want to go,” he said. And if that’s not enough, she and her husband Young, creative director, also noted that Rocha also have a “sport chic” line called Co + Co. Spring not only brings her experience to the table, but Coco Rocha was the first collection. “We are already designing Moo by Rocha REX/Shutterstock; by photograph Trump through their long friendship, there were always for next spring,” she said. 29 JUNE 2016 9

FASHION supported by the French Ministry of Industry and is known for its academic and market research. Nina Ricci’s Guil- laume Henri and Ami designer Alexan- Paris Fashion Schools to dre Mattiussi are among graduates of the IFM’s design program. Pierre Bergé, president of IFM’s board of administration, said joining forces Unite Diverse Disciplines with the École de la Chambre would foster diversity by “welcoming students from all backgrounds, from vocational ● The IFM is to consolidate training to master level.” with the École de la Chambre Pascal Morand, executive president of the Fédération Française de la Couture Syndicale over a multiyear du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des process. Créateurs de Mode, and Dominique Jacomet, dean of IFM, are to head a BY MILES SOCHA steering committee in charge of the alliance. PARIS — In a bid to build a world-class “We want the school to attract the fashion school uniting business, design best talents, because we have many very and savoir-faire, ’s IFM manage- big companies in France,” Toledano ment school and École de la Chambre said, noting hires from many gradu- Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne have ations of both schools. Peers such as formed a strategic alliance. , and Hermès also chief executive officer Sidney choose from the bunch, he added. Toledano, who is president of the École “The world is transforming and our de la Chambre, told WWD the fusion industry is changing, so we need to give would take place over the next few priority to education,” Toledano said, years, ultimately bringing the two insti- adding that technology’s impact on fash- tutions under one roof. ion would be another key element in the In an interview, he said it reflects the consolidated curriculum. fact that managers, designers and tech- Ralph Toledano — who is president of nicians collaborate closely at fashion Puig fashion, president of the Fédéra- companies, whereas these disciplines Sidney tion Française and unrelated to Dior’s tend to be remote in France’s rigid Toledano Toledano — noted that the consolidated educational system, now undergoing school would offer the highest levels consolidation and liberalization. of education, up to five-year courses, “Why shouldn’t designers know across all disciplines and industry exactly how to technically make a strata. “It will of course be for luxury, dress?” he asked. “Likewise, managers but it also for textiles, for retail and should know what an atelier does and for more mass products,” he said in an how to deal with designers.” interview. The combined school is expected to The development comes on the eve of unite 700 students, including about 200 a packed couture week in Paris, whose apprentices, about 40 percent of them numerous new entrants — including international. Francesco Scognamiglio, Vetements and Founded in 1927, the École de la “Why shouldn’t designers know exactly J.Mendel — speaks to a growing need for Chambre Syndicale offers vocational specialized artisanal skills. training and higher education programs Earlier this month, when the École in design and patternmaking, blending how to technically make a dress? de la Chambre exhibited the work of creativity and technical expertise. It has fourth-year students, it highlighted the turned out such famous alumni as Yves Likewise, managers should know what growing technical focus of the fashion Saint Laurent, Valentino Garavani, Issey academy, as it seeks to turn out skilled Miyake, André Courreges and Tomas an atelier does and how to deal workers that meet the needs of the Maier. industry. Some students presented a The IFM, an acronym for French creative concept alongside their grad- Fashion Institute, offers postgradu- with designers.” uate collections, while others skewed ate programs in textile, fashion and — SIDNEY TOLEDANO, DIOR toward interpreting sketches in three luxury, welcoming some 200 students dimensions — what is known in French and 2,000 executives each year. It is as “modélisme.”

FASHION and Adam El-Zayat Hjorth, Tonsure was shimmering embroideries. lunched with the fall 2014 season and “I’m really honored to win this was immediately picked up as an challenge,” Labenda said. “I’m happy to exclusive by United Arrows. The represent Europe in the final.” Woolmark Reveals designer duo presented a layered The winner of the International look, featuring an oversize peacoat Woolmark Prize in the women’s wear worn over an elongated vest category will be revealed in February crafted from embossed cotton fleece, during . European Winners which was also used for the relaxed The other finalists of the European cuffed pants. regional competition included Cockerel, ● Tonsure and Tim Labenda Woolmark Prize. “It’s quite overwhelming,” exclaimed Etienne Deroeux, Giuseppe di Morabito, won in the men’s and women’s Danish label Tonsure and German Flagstad. “We are looking forward to Gülçin Çengel, Kimstumpf, Leandro designer Tim Labenda took the prizes . It will be exciting,” he added, Cano, Nicholas Nybro, Peet Dullaert categories, respectively. in the men’s and women’s categories, referring to the international final to be and Roshi Porkar, who all competed in respectively. Both Tonsure and Labenda held in January during the men’s shows the women’s wear category. Men’s wear BY ALESSANDRA TURRA received a cash prize of 50,000 Austra- in London. finalists included Benanbal, Brach- lian dollars, or about $36,990 at current The women’s winner, Labenda, who mann, Devon Halfnight Leflufy, Evan MILAN — Woolmark on Tuesday exchange rate. established his namesake women’s wear Menswear, Luca Larenza, Mareunrol’s, revealed the winners of the European Cofounded by Malte Flagstad, who label in 2013, showcased a chubby, Matières Paris, Mirka Horká and

Photograph by Stéphane Feugère Stéphane by Photograph regional awards for the International cut his teeth at Maison Martin Margiela, furry wool jacket embellished with Pablo Erroz. 10 29 JUNE 2016

I want to focus on my brand’s strategic With his new chief executive officer Alexander Wang growth. Now is the right time to fully role, Wang joins a short list of designers synchronize the creative and business who run both the business and creative Named CEO and aspects of the company and to continue sides. Many young designers consider strengthening the dialog we have with both hero and role model our customers. It has always been my for the way he famously stewarded his Chairman of goal to create brand value, and to be a company from start-up to industry pow- brand with integrity and purpose.” erhouse. Last September, Lauren turned Alexander Wang Inc. Within 10 years, Wang built the com- over the ceo reins for the first time CONTINUED FROM PAGE 1 pany from a tiny collection of unisex in his company’s near-50 years when cashmere intarsia sweaters to a $100 Stefan Larsson came into the company, million women’s and men’s contempo- though Lauren remains co-ceo. Then aunt, recently joined the company as rary brand, which produces Alexander there’s Burberry’s Christopher Bailey, executive vice chairman, representing Wang and the T by Alexander Wang line who was an unconventional choice to the board and reporting directly to of more casual sportswear. There are replace Angela Ahrendts as ceo in 2013 Alexander Wang. With a 30-year career also shoes and handbags. In 2014, Wang while retaining his position as chief in information technology, Caroline launched denim, distinguishing himself creative officer. comes from IBM where she was vice in a very crowded category with highly Ralph Lauren and Burberry are president of marketing, information provocative ad campaign that depicted a both public companies, while Wang technology and business transformation model masturbating while wearing little remains privately held. Still, it’s rare in Asia-Pacific. besides a pair of his jeans. A small range for a designer to inhabit the role of ceo. As Wang takes on his expanded of jewelry was introduced on his spring Gabrielle Chanel served as ceo of her responsibilities, his mother Ying Wang Alexander Wang 2015 runway and expanded for pre-fall. company and had several thousand and sister-in-law Aimie Wang, who held Last year reports began circulating employees, while took the positions of chairwoman and ceo that Wang was actively seeking an up the role of ceo after his business respectively, will step down from their 2010 during its first major growth investor, and in August, WWD reported and life partner Sergio Galeotti died. Jil roles. Both will remain shareholders phase, overseeing the expansion of new that he was in negotiations with General Sander also helmed her company before and board members. The two women product categories and retail mar- Atlantic, the New York-based growth it went public, while cofounded the company with Wang, kets, including the rollout of 26 stores equity firm that is headed by chief was briefly president of his namesake along with his brother Dennis Wang, worldwide. executive officer William Ford. To date, company. was famously who will continue as an advisor. Such changes reflect the implemen- the Alexander Wang company remains involved in the commercial and finan- “My family and I have been prepar- tation of a significant growth strategy. family-owned, though during an April cial side when he was creative director ing for this shift all along, and after 11 Since Alexander Wang left his role as 2015 interview with WWD, Wang said of Gucci, working closely with Domen- years all family members feel the time creative director of in Octo- that his goals would eventually call for ico De Sole, then Gucci’s ceo. is right,” Alexander Wang told WWD. ber 2015 after his contract expired, the financial partnership. For Alexander Wang, taking on the “The family are still board members designer has been vocal about his total “There’s definitely an openness,” he duties of ceo is symbolic as well as and give their full support. In addition, dedication to his own brand. As much as said at the time. “Capital to open retail practical, an alignment of leadership as executives will gradually be added to he appears to personally live his label’s is definitely a very important part of the company plans for the future. “The the company’s senior management team cool-kid street image, fueled by the the next phase for us, and supply chain company has been strong and grow- to support continued growth.” underground music and party scene, and resources, IT — those things can be ing in a challenging climate,” he said. Things have been stirring at the com- not to mention “models off duty” — the aided by having a partner.” Wang also “There will not be a shift in philosophy, pany for a while. The first indication look and phrase that put Wang, 32, on noted that infrastructure, retail, human but rather a focus on what my brand that shifts in management were to come the map when he launched the company resources and aligning the efforts of stands for and a continued emphasis on occurred in May, when Rodrigo Bazan — he has demonstrated shrewd business his three offices in New York, Paris and brand integrity.” stepped down as president, moving to instincts from a young age. Hong Kong, with close to 300 employ- Whether working from a creative or Thom Browne as chief executive officer. “The business side has always come ees, were the next steps. The Wang financial standpoint, Wang is clear on Bazan was Wang’s first brand presi- naturally to me,” said Alexander Wang. business is currently 60 percent interna- his professional mission: “Stay true to dent, joining the company in December “With my full-time return to New York, tional and 40 percent domestic. yourself,” he said.

MEDIA a laptop. These updates, Kendall said, go back to Pinterest’s mission of helping people discover and do what they love — and Pinterest Zeros In on Shopping increasingly, that means helping people find and buy. ● In addition to the ability to Kendall said after introducing Buyable Pinterest also plans to add a camera visually search any object Pins with two million products in June of search feature that lets users take a photo last year, there are now 10 million prod- of an object in the real world and find in any image, Pinterest has ucts for sale on Pinterest. He emphasized related products on Pinterest. improved the process of that the platform is increasingly being seen This tool will be introduced in the next shopping on the platform. as a shopping tool and that research has couple of months, and will come with shown 55 percent of people come to Pin- additional enhancements to Pinterest’s BY MAGHAN MCDOWELL terest to shop. By comparison, only about existing visual shopping tools. This means 12 percent of users turn to social networks that any image can be used as a search Pinterest is open for business and trying to shop. query, whether they are Pins, screen grabs to make the world “buyable.” “One hundred percent of the time, from the web or photos snapped in the The social sharing platform outlined people are looking for ideas — not for news real world. All of the objects in the image a number of commerce-minded updates or pictures of friends and family, but for are detectable, and by providing related Tuesday that will help consumers buy as ideas,” he said. recommendations, Pinterest essentially they pore over the pins for inspiration and Forrester analyst Sucharita Mulpuru-Ko- enables all of the items to become shop- use their cell-phone camera as a shopping dali said these updates “should improve able on the platform. search tool. their conversion rates and hopefully they’ll Pinterest software engineer Dmitry Kis- Users can be inspired to shop at any see greater gross merchandise volume. I lyuk said in addition to the more than two point and across devices in the digital think the buyable Pins had a lot of execu- billion monthly idea searches on Pinterest, world as well as off-line, said Pinterest’s tion problems, starting with the fact that there are about 130 million visual searches Automatic object each month. With this new capability, he Tim Kendall during a presentation at the you couldn’t really save a cart and you detection on Pinterest. company’s San Francisco headquarters. had to complete the transaction in that said, “You can walk into a room and get Some of the shopping updates are session.” devices, consumers are device-agnostic recommendations from every object that available today, including the addition of She said this gets Pinterest closer to how and the shopping journey is far more you see — on Pinterest and the real world.” Buyable Pins to the web, expanding the people really shop. diverse than a conversation surrounding It’s still early days in the world of visual feature that had previously only been avail- Kendall noted that when someone sees a “desktop or mobile.” search, though. able on the platform’s mobile app. Users product on the platform, they are twice as “Many of the things we accept as EMarketer analyst Debbie Williamson will also start to see recommended items likely to buy it in store. And when a mer- common knowledge don’t apply to online said: “I wonder about how the camera and can add purchases to a shopping bag chant promotes a Pin, users are five times shopping,” she said. search feature will work in the wild. Will that works across all devices. more likely to buy it in person. Brown said she has found that 80 they have a library of images so large that Merchants will also get some love with Pinterest stylist and researcher Lar- percent of people who use Pinterest use it you can aim your camera at anything, even profiles that let users browse for products kin Brown added that although so much on their phones, but 84 percent of people off-line, and get linked to a pin about it?

from specific retailers. focus of late has been shopping on mobile who shop on their phones also shop on That seems like an enormous endeavor.” Nigel Parry by photograph Wang 29 JUNE 2016 11

Yifang Wan Designer Liu Min & Xiamen Aims husband Ian Hylton To Be China’s New Fashion Hub CONTINUED FROM PAGE 1

Yifang Wan; Min Liu of Ms Min; Cotton Yu of Mymymy, and Dido Liu of Deepmoss are just some of the designers based in Xiamen. Local labels such as Ports, Jorya, Anta and Septwolves also call the city home. In 2013, a New York Times Chinese language article compared the city and its designers to the Antwerp Six, referring to them as the “Xia- men Gang.” In September, Beijing-based designer Vega Wang will join the fold, moving her produc- tion from the capital to Xiamen, citing rising labor costs and general quality of life. A graduate of Central Saint Martins in London and a former intern at Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen, 30-year- old Wang said she arrived in Xiamen after graduation looking to work for an inde- pendent designer. That’s where she found and the development and reform committee, she said. president of her label Ms Min, said Xia- Zhe from Sankuanz. Noticing their differing adding that 2015 figures will be revealed in “At the beginning, the samples were a men is a great place to be based due to its designs, Zhe encouraged Wang to branch out October. disaster,” Wan said, explaining how she coastal nature. The only drawback: “Finding on her own. Since then, she launched her Apart from Zhe and Yu, the rest of the carefully taught her team how to make her models.” own label, which has received high praise for designers moving here graduated from Cen- minimalistitc, chic clothes from scratch. “We were in a cab in Shanghai looking for its British equestrian-inspired aesthetic. She tral Saint Martins or the London College of “But after some practice, it became much studio space and the traffic was terrible. [Min] said returning to Xiamen, where she lived for Fashion. Speaking about the trend of Chinese better,” the designer said as builders worked and I just looked at each other and thought: a year before moving to Beijing in 2007, is a designers returning home to launch their own on the new extension of her studio in the this is not for us,” Hylton said of their Shang- homecoming of sorts. labels, designer Yifang Wan said this is partly background. “Being here also changed my hai hunt five years ago. “Our company is growing fast and Beijing is due to the U.K.’s visa restrictions that previ- designs. In London, it was all about fashion, Ms Min is stocked at her flagship in Shang- not a good place to stay to make production,” ously required international students to leave making the garments look beautiful, doing a hai as well as at Lane Crawford in Hong Kong, Wang said, explaining how Xiamen, being the country after graduation. However, these lot of draping and not paying too much atten- Shin Kong Place in Beijing, United Arrows located in Fujian, is also near to Guangdong rules have relaxed in recent years. Now more tion to comfort. But now, being here, I really in Tokyo and her original sales spot Taobao, province — both major textile hubs. Wang’s Chinese designers can stay in London to start pay attention to comfort and think about how though Liu and Hylton said they’ve been clothes are sold at Opening Ceremony, Shin their own businesses under the entrepreneur to make the garment relaxed for my clients.” dealing with a slew of counterfeiters on the Kong Place, Galeries Lafayette and local mul- visa whereby candidates need to have access Former LVMH Prize finalist Zhe of e-commerce site, trying to catch vendors who tibrand shops across China. Her sales have to a minimum of 50,000 pounds, or about Sankuanz is an unlikely designer. Trained as are ripping off their designs and selling for been increasing 15 to 20 percent each season, $65,000 at current exchange, in investment a graphic designer, the 32-year-old is referred less. “I’d be here all day if I were to tell you she said. funds to qualify. to as a “big brother” for the young designers how many [counterfeiters] there are,” Liu “Since 2008, I preferred to stay in a bigger The recipient of the L’Oréal Professional in the city, always willing to offer words of said. city because I needed to build my team and Award in 2010 and the Lane Crawford bur- encouragement and his studio space if need Hylton said they’re working on expansion make some noise and Beijing is a good place sary award during her studies, Wan started be. in Asia and Europe. Asked if it’s difficult because all the media is based here and it has her namesake label in 2012, traveling between “When I returned from London I didn’t to work with her spouse, Liu said: “It was lots of artists and musicians here, too,” she London and her hometown of Xiamen. Due have a working space and Zhe generously let difficult at first, but we made a rule: work talk said. to her new life as a parent and also to save me use his studio,” Wan said stops at the bedroom door.” But as labor costs rise and Beijing’s air costs, Wan decided to move production to Last year, Zhe launched his own multi- Xiamen’s old quarter is a neighborhood in quality worsens, Wang thought about a better China. At first, she wanted to be based in brand shop in Xiamen called AKP, selling the transformation whereby antiquated build- quality of life for her and the business. She Shanghai but the difficulty of finding a studio collections of local designers as well as offer- ings are being razed, making way for rows plans to keep her Beijing studio, located in became overwhelming. “I had to get started ing lifestyle items and a café. After The New of new restaurants, design and art shops. a traditional alleyway hutong, where her right away because of orders and couldn’t York Times’ article, Zhe said the government Businesses open closer to the noon hour and marketing, public relation and sales staff will spend more time looking for a studio, so by tapped him for meetings to brainstorm ideas. nearby is Cotton Yu’s vintage-style café and remain, but move the rest to Xiamen. default, I returned home to Xiamen,” “Previously, the government put a lot of , Thank You, opened seven years ago with “[Xiamen] is always chill, the people are emphasis on science and tech. After [the arti- her DJ husband, Dave. The former editor of nice and every day you wake up to the ocean. Designer Shangguan Zhe cle], they paid attention to fashion. In Fujian the now-defunct culture magazine titled M The environment is very beautiful,” said the of Sankuanz at studio. province, the fashion and production indus- Style, Cotton launched her casual street wear designer, who is building a beachside studio. try is really big here. But in recent years, some label Mymymy after her former intern, Zhe, “The rent is very cheap [in Xiamen] and that’s production companies didn’t do so well, so encouraged her to do so when the magazine a reason, too. But [in Xiamen], it’s region- I think the government wanted to help more folded. ally known for quality pattern makers and young designers [as well as the] production “[Xiamen’s] not like Beijing, or Guangzhou, machinists. side of the industry,” he said. it doesn’t have a bright local culture…it’s an “Now Beijing is cleaning up. Lower level Sankuanz’s playful pop prints and sporty environment that gives you so many chances workers are getting kicked out and the fabric androgynous street designs are stocked in to slow down and focus on what you want to markets are getting pushed out and moved to Joyce, I.T, 10 Corso Como, Opening Ceremony do. It’s not about chasing really fast returns. Tianjin and Hebei. All of this news made me and H. Lorenzo. Everybody here is really focused on doing think about my next move,” she added. Designer Liu Min, an LVMH Prize final- things step-by-step and doing it perfectly,” Xiamen’s tranquil surroundings and ist this year, said a common question she Cotton said. proximity to the country’s southern textile received during the contest was: “Are [these Mymymy is sold on Taobao and has grown belt and fashion cities such as Hong Kong, clothes] really made in China?” from an initial staff of two people to now, 10. Shanghai and Taiwan make it an attractive The 35-year-old designer said the judges Yu declined to provide sales figures. base for business. Recently, the Xiamen were impressed by the quality of her elegant “This is the Amoy life,” Dave explained, government has been fervently promoting the and modern clothes, but constantly went recalling the city’s ancestral name. “People island as China’s fashion hub. It has rolled out back for second looks to be sure they were like to enjoy life here and don’t like to work its own fashion week and awarded onetime products of the Middle Kingdom. The former too much,” he said, with a bright smile, beck- government grants to designers who decide Viktor & Rolf intern and Ports 1961 designer oning his staff for a round of . “It’s to base themselves here. To qualify, designers added, “For a long time, China has been con- better to have a drink first,” he said, serving must meet an intricate scheme of require- sidered to be the place to produce something his custom cocktails. ments covering everything from the amount fast and cheap and now there are more and Most nights, one can find the designers of international press coverage to the level of more luxury products coming up,” Liu said, having a meal or drink at Thank You. The sales revenue. describing her designs as combining “edge only downside about Xiamen, Dave said, is In 2014, Xiamen’s apparel industry gener- with ease.” that everything pretty much shuts down at ated $35 billion in revenue, according to Weng Her husband, Ian Hylton, former men’s 10 p.m. Xiaolan, head of the city’s social development wear designer for Ports 1961 and current “That’s why I started this bar,” he beamed. 12 29 JUNE 2016

Ritz Paris Marks Colonne Vendôme Restoration Karl Lagerfeld, Giambattista Valli and Christian Louboutin attended the cocktail party and illumination ceremony.

PARIS — Mohamed Al-Fayed trade, the promotion of pleased, since he has been threw open the doors of the tourism and French nationals collecting photographs of recently reopened Ritz Paris abroad, gave speeches the Colonne Vendôme — by Heini Al-Fayed, hotel on Monday for a party praising his generosity. At everyone from Brassaï, Mohamed Al-Fayed, celebrating the restoration of sunset, guests headed to Robert Doisneau, Vik Muniz the Colonne Vendôme, which the first-floor Suite Impériale, and Stephen Shore — for 20 and Karl Lagerfeld. he financed to the tune of 1.45 where his son Dodi and years. million euros, or $1.6 million. Princess Diana ate their final “It’s amazing for Paris to for Paris, because there is a really nice about the Ritz is Karl Lagerfeld, Bernadette meal, to watch the illumination have a fully restored column real problem of discrepancy seeing a lot of the same faces Chirac, Giambattista Valli, of the monument. and on top of this, the Ritz is between the perception of from when I used to come Christian Louboutin, Farida First erected in 1810 as a going to attract a lot of events, France overseas and what it’s four years ago. That’s also Khelfa, Lorenz Bäumer and military tribute to Napoleon tourism and traffic. It’s very really like.” part of the idea of continuity executives from neighboring I, the column had not been stimulating to have such a The jeweler said he is and finding things as you left luxury houses turned out restored since it was put back dynamic place right next already back in the habit of them,” he said. for the event, co-hosted by in place in 1872, following a door,” he said. “I’m pleased visiting the hotel. “What’s — JOELLE DIDERICH Béatrice de Plinval, president period of political turbulence of the Comité Vendôme, during which it was briefly which groups 109 members torn down. A video mapping located in and around the projection highlighted its his- square. tory as well as famous guests Over cocktails in of the hotel, like Marcel Proust the hotel’s redesigned A view of the Colonne and Ernest Hemingway. 17,000-square-foot jardin à Vendôme from the Imperial Khelfa, spokeswoman for la française, producer Jerry Suite at the Ritz Paris. neighboring Schiaparelli, was Bruckheimer said he’s been feeling elated. “Schiaparelli staying there for 40 years. “It’s to hang out at the Heming- patina of the column opposite reopened in 2012 and the Ritz a masterpiece,” he opined. way Bar, was sipping a blue the hotel. closed a month later, so we “When you’re traveling — and cocktail concocted by head Al-Fayed, who has spent were only able to enjoy it for a lot of us travel a lot — it’s nice a month before it went into Colin Peter Field 400 million euros, or $442 Mélita Toscan du four years of construction. It’s to come to a place that’s very for the celebration. A mix million, on renovating the Ritz, Plantier, Christian great to have it back - it brings homey and elegant to spend of vodka, blue curaçao and listened in silence as guests Louboutin and Stéphane Bern and life to the square,” she said. your time.” grapefruit, it was designed including Matthias Fekl, Melissa Bouygues. Giambattista Valli Bruckheimer, who likes to reproduce the verdigris France’s minister for foreign Bäumer was particularly

took a while for him to find his footing and all of it was driven to become a musician. During World War I, when Chicago Museum to his music career doesn’t come into fruition, he ends up at Harper’s Bazaar doing fashion illustrations. Then Mount Mainbocher Exhibit from there, he becomes an editor of French Vogue, then “Making Mainbocher: The First American Couturier” opens Oct. 22. he becomes editor in chief of French Vogue,” Slinkard said. “His story is one that is very inspiring — particularly to people today who are con- CHICAGO — The Chicago stantly trying new things and History Museum will explore challenging themselves to the life and legacy of Main stretch and grow in different Rousseau Bocher in an choker and bracelets from people today — at a time directions. I wish he was here upcoming exhibit entitled fall 1947 and another from fall when everyone is pushed to so I could talk to him, but my “Making Mainbocher: The 1951; a sleeveless tea-length learn new skills and evolve perception of him is that he First American Couturier,” cocktail gown from spring professionally. was very resourceful, driven which opens on Oct. 22. 1954; a black velvet opera “He was really a strug- and he just didn’t give up.” The exhibition, which will cape with sable fur trim from gling artist for so long. It — KRISTIN LARSON mark the first of its kind ded- fall 1955, and two pieces icated solely to the work of donated by the couturier him- Garments to be the Chicago-born designer, self in 1968, including a plaid featured at the will feature about 30 gar- wool coat from fall 1937 and Mainbocher exhibit. ments from the museum’s a two-tiered sleeveless tulle permanent collection as well evening gown from spring as fashion illustrations, early 1937, both with a Paris label. drawings, photography, audio “We have some nice presentations and video. documentation between “All of the mannequins Phyllis Healy, the curator at will be fully styled — pearls, the museum at that time and gloves, the whole nine yards. him. There are some letters He was very particular about many roles Bocher held be- get there. That’s the crux of for the Navy WAVES during back and forth between the way his women dressed. fore achieving acclaim under the exhibit, hence the title World War II, the Girl Scouts him and her discussing the He had strong views on what his fashion label. “He was an ‘Making Mainbocher,’ looking and nursing students donation and those will be on it meant to be dressed like a extremely interesting man. at all these steps he took to at Chicago’s Passavant display,” Slinkard said. lady. People would seek him He wore a lot of different go on to achieve international Memorial Hospital. Known for In 1992, the museum had out as a voice of guidance hats. When he started off in success and be regarded as his innovative and elegant a small exhibition focused on and what was happening in Chicago, he had no intention a well-respected couturier in designs, the designer is the designer’s uniforms, with fashion,” said Petra Slinkard, to go into fashion; he wanted the mid 20th century.” credited with introducing the eight pieces, called “Uniform- curator of costumes at the to study music. He wanted to Born in 1890, the designer first strapless evening dress ly Feminine.” The only other Chicago History Museum, sing professionally, that was grew up on Chicago’s west and helping to popularize the show devoted to the de- adding that it is making paper his first love. He lived a lot of side and rose to fashion cocktail dress. signer is an online exhibition wigs for each mannequin to lives before he decided to fame when he designed the Exhibit highlights include hosted by the Museum of the complete each ensemble. open his couture salon when wedding dress and trous- a suit identical to the style City of New York. From aspiring artist to was 40 years old,” Slinkard seau for Wallis Simpson, the chosen by the duchess for Slinkard said she thinks magazine editor to designer, said. “He had a pretty multi- Duchess of Windsor, in 1937. her trousseau; two strapless the exhibit and Bocher’s

the exhibit will look at the faceted and varied journey to He also created uniforms gowns, one with a matching life will resonate well with Dominique Maître by Ritz photographs CEOSUMMIT

OCTOBER 25 – 26, 2016 NEWX YORK CITY

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® 14 29 JUNE 2016

An image from Bottega Veneta’s fall Memo campaign. Fashion Scoops Pad Costume Drama bloody windows.” Mary Katrantzou. The cos- Meanwhile, a row of fashion tumes have been labeled with Confidence Ahead of the U.K. release Booster of “Absolutely Fabulous: The show attendees are decked stickers reading: “Not for sale has unveiled Frances Valentine Movie” on July 1, a series of out in clothing from designers darlings.” its second advertising campaign, costumes curated by Rebecca including Dries Van Noten Liberty’s head of visual iden- for fall. Hale is on display in a 10-win- and Valentino. One wears a tity Liz Silvester told WWD the “This is the first campaign where dow installation at Liberty. bespoke Vivienne Westwood windows are “one of the funni- we got into the groove of what the Mannequins resembling ensemble, while another is est we have done all year. They company narrative is,” managing decked in a red Alexander chatter ‘More Champagne’ and and Forty Five Ten for fall. Dutch photographer and artist the film’s stars Joanna Lumley partner Andy Spade said, describ- and Jennifer Saunders are McQueen dress. are plastered with our giant ing the shoot’s concept as “urban “This time around, I’m 10 years Viviane Sassen — who also shot On the shop floor, the retail- Ab Fab bubble stickers, with older, it’s been 10 years — you are the brand’s most recent spring posed against a pink-purple suburbia.” sequin backdrop surrounded er has dressed mannequins some of the great phases from not a different person, I didn’t come campaign — lensed models Simon A cast of petite characters by — what else? — shoes and in costumes from the film. the film.” back with a punk rock collection. Fitskie and Rianne Van Rompaey is shrouded in babushka head- bottles of Champagne as well They’ve been merchandised The window installation will I feel more comfortable and less at “The Great Cretto,” a landscape scarves, pictured wearing mixed- as a bold sign declaring: “Look with pieces from designers be up until July 17. nervous about my decisions, some- artwork undertaken by Burri in 1984 print heels and ankle boots. The ads darling, we’re in the that Liberty carries, such as — LORELEI MARFIL were photographed by Susanna times they are not cohesive and [I and completed in 2015. A memorial Howe in Andy and Kate Spade’s don’t feel the need] to design with a to the Sicilian village of Gibellina, theme,” said Valentine Spade. which was completely destroyed Upper East Side townhouse. They The AbFab Movie Both Spades said they are in no by an earthquake in 1968, the work will appear on the brand’s digital window display at rush to enter categories outside the consists of blocks of concrete, channels, beginning in July. Liberty “Definitely with more years of accessories fray. “We are not trying featuring cracks between them, experience, now we are older and it to come out of the gate saying we covering a surface of about 86,122 has a level of refinement we didn’t are going to be this big lifestyle square feet. know before,” said Spade. company. We are making bags The artwork was celebrated Frances Valentine — Kate Val- and shoes. If we move into other with a documentary screened at entine Spade’s first venture since categories, that will happen on its the Alberto Burri retrospective held departing her namesake brand own — we’re not forcing anything last year at New York’s Solomon R. in 2007 — said it has exceeded its right now,” she said. Guggenheim Museum. sales targets for the first quarter, — MISTY WHITE SIDELL “Viviane’s photography has an but declined to reveal actual figures. inescapable, enigmatic quality to The brand sells at U.S. department it, a refinement and acute inde- stores including Nordstrom and Burri’s Turn pendence,” said Bottega Veneta Bloomingdale’s, and online with Bottega Veneta pays homage to creative director Tomas Maier. Shopbop and Zappos. It will enter Alberto Burri with its fall advertising “Together we have explored both retailers including Lane Crawford campaign. the artistic landmarks for the Frances Valentine’s Fall A visual from the Campaign Jimmy Choo fall 2016 campaign.

campaigns that are more than a its 20th anniversary, WWD has minimal background, the idea was backdrop, but rather an added voice learned. to allow the seven women featured to our collaboration.” In a bid to include women of in the campaign to command the Maier started collaborating with different ages and backgrounds frame and have an authoritative visual artists on the Bottega Veneta who embody the brand spirit, presence. McDean and Richardson advertising campaigns in 2001. The Jimmy Choo has tapped seven also worked on the label’s men’s list of personalities who teamed models: Amber Valletta, Sasha fall 2016 campaign, which was with the company over the years Pivovarova, Milla Jovovich, Lexi released earlier this month and includes Nobuyoshi Araki, Philip-Lor- Boling, , Jasmine Tookes features James Jagger. ca diCorcia, Pieter Hugo, Peter and Xiao Wen Ju. The anniversary campaign Lindbergh and Juergen Teller. “The fall 2016 campaign is a re- images feature key fall styles The advertising campaign will flection of the characters who em- including velvet pumps and lace-up break in international titles begin- body the Jimmy Choo brand values boots, as well as Jimmy Choo ning next month. both during the past 20 years and signatures such as classic, point- — ALESSANDRA TURRA into the future. It’s a modern vision ed-toe pumps and strappy sandals. of our woman and it signals a bold The ads will break in September new chapter,” said Sandra Choi, the issues worldwide, and will be Power Cast label’s creative director. accompanied by a video campaign Jimmy Choo is going the extra mile Styled by Sarah Richardson and that will appear on the brand’s web for its fall campaign as it marks shot by Craig McDean against a site. — NATALIE THEODOSI

FASHION Rosie Assoulin Wins Swarovski Collective Award

● The New York-based designer and Christopher De Vos of the London will receive a monetary prize label Peter Pilotto. earmarked for developing her Assoulin told WWD the designers taking part in the Collective have access collections. to a vast catalogue of crystals, all with different applications. “It gives us the BY LORELEI MARFIL ability to play and explore, which is a huge part of the creative experience.” “For fall 2016, we were excited to con- LONDON — Rosie Assoulin was named tinue our Swarovski concept that began the winner of the annual Swarovski in the spring 2016 collection, using heat Collective Award, WWD has learned. fixing, color and shapes differently, The New York-based designer — who while keeping it casual and fun. We used will receive a 25,000 euro, or $28,610, Polly Apfelbaum’s art as a springboard prize — earmarked for developing her for that idea,” she said. collections. Assoulin teamed with the Austrian The Collective was founded by Nadja crystal maker previously on an Atelier Swarovski in 1999 and aims to support Swarovski by Rosie Assoulin jewelry 150 emerging and established designers, collection for fall 2016. urging them to use crystals in inventive Nadja Swarovski, a member of the ways for their catwalk designs. This is Swarovski executive board, said Assou- the second edition of the prize, which lin’s “playful yet powerful” collections Looks from Rosie Assoulin. was awarded last year to Peter Pilotto appeal to both critics and consumers.”