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Free Agent | BEAUTY INC @ g-s-, ffi After a hishlv public breaku reed, marketer Lagrice Rahmd ^Bfffinair"bi.f,iii"thdis back in"thd driverbdriver's seats-eai witffirwi lateqtJenture, Bond No. 9. Wood Photographs by David Turner Scorched earth: Love her or loathe her, fewwould argue serve her ultradiscerning target market. is that it gives that Laurice Rahmd has left a trail of it in her wake. "The simple definition of a niche brand Idealistic, famously blunt and possessed of a fiery temper' the consumer choices-as many as possible," Rahmd says NoHo the fragrance industry veteran freely admits to having over a cup of tea at Bond's 3,000-square-foot us' but even with accrued a few enemies over the course ofher storied 30- flagship. "People do buy a wardrobe with have one for yeat career. 30,40 or even 50 fragrances, you still won't But here's the catch: Her admirers are legion' And with everyone. So the more the better." what her her latest venture-the Manhattan-centric Bond No.9 Of equal importance to Rahmd is determining brand-even Rahm6's detractors have to concede she's customers dorlt want. "We always hear consumers say,'I does knocked one clear out of Central Park. In fact, from just hate to be attacked by spritzers,'yet everybody still it' and the about any vantage point-the $6 million volume, the It's because the industry hasn't found another way, 'If multiple FiFiAward nominations or the aggressive growth competition is so great that there's this feeling of I don t plan-the three-year-old brand looks like a certifiable hit. spritz you, the Chanel girl will."' Take into account the fact that Bond No. 9 is booming To that end, Bond-which has a current distribution of despite the fact that it was introduced during one of the 23 Saks doors and about 100 upscale boutiques around the most challenging periods in fragrance retailing history, and country-is a militantly spritz-free zone. it's clear that Rahm6 is positioning herself to become a And don t even get Rahm6 going on another retail just major player in the fragrance arena. staple-pre-sprayed blotters. "They're sitting there on "I'm very opinionatedi'says Rahm€, who spent decades the counter, so when the customer walks up, it's'Oh, here "Are building the American presence of brands such as you go.'That makes me furiousi'she fumes' you telling even Lanc6me, Annick Goutal and Creed before striking out on me that as a salesperson, you're so busy that you dorlt her own, "and that's often misunderstood as being a tough have the time to spray a fresh blotter? You have to Pre-scent butly. But I knowwhat I believe in'" them? To me, it's all about those details. Service, service, A member of the influential artisanal pack' a group that service. Always service." includes Fr6d6ric Malle, Serge Lutens and LArtisan Despite the take-no-prisoners riffing, Rahmd can be Parfumeur, Rahm€'s brand credo blends a sense of high surprisingly sentimental at times, especially when asked "After craft with an abundance of choice for the consumer. By the how the concept for the line originally came about. New end of this year, there will be atotal of 25 scents under the Sept. I l, many people wanted to do something for to Bond umbrella, all named after a NewYork neighborhood. York," she says. "From my perspective, what to do was But to hear Rahm6 tell it, even that isn't enough to truly give it its own scent. Think about it: In the 20th century' WWDBEAUWBIZ 35 there were a lot of neighborhood scents done for Paris- wanted to get to $50 million. And to do that, I would have Rive Gauche byYves Saint Laurent, ChamPs Elys€es by to leave specialty stores and go into department stores. Guerlain,24 Faubourg by Hermds. When someone tries to force me to take a brand like Goutal "I also wanted to prove a point," Rahmd continues. to Bloomingdale's...well, let's just say I knew it would be a "NewYork is bigger, more powerful, more cosmopolitan' losing proposition. And I was proven right." In Paris, you have the French and the Arabs and that's it. Rahmd learned the art of marketing during 74 yearc at Here, each neighborhood is a village, a different culture. LOr6al. The corporation's dogged pursuit of excellence It's much richer." dovetailed well with her natural perfectionism, and she To underscore her loyalty to her adopted ciry Rahm6, rose steadily. who was born and raised in Paris, shed her decades-long ex- "They taught me everything I know," she says. "I look at pat status in 2001 and became a U.S. citizen. "I'm authentic LOr6al like a university." now," she says. "For this line, I had to be." Rahmd was initially hired to do skin care training in Conjuring Bond from scratch proved a welcome respite France. "Every little city, every little perfumery," she says' "If there, she from a decidedly stickier situation-the embarrassingly you can survive that, you can do an1'thing." From public unraveling of her business alliance with Olivier moved on to the Lanc6me Institute project, opening small Creed, proprietor of Creed fragrances. Charging that he in-store spas in Eg1pt, fordan and other Middle East greenlighted the dumping of vast amounts of Creed markets. In 1976,a call came in from the NewYork office. product into the Middle East gray market, Rahm6 began Would she be interested in relocating to the States to open making noises about ending her U.S. distribution Institutes at Bloomingdale's? agreement. By early 2004, she had ceased distribution' Rahm6 couldn't get on a plane fast enough. converted the Creed stores into Bond boutiques and taken "Laurice was a little French fireball," recalls one of her out ads in The New York Times andr+MWD thattead, in part: best friends, longtime IjOrdal USA executive Margaret "Clear the way. Creed fragrances'liquidation sale 50 percent Sharkey, who was on the Lanc6me brand at the time of off. (Cheaper than the Internet.)" Rahm6's arrival. "she can be very strong; we know that In retaliation, Creed initiated legal proceedings against about her. But she's also very diligent. She works very hard Rahm€, alleging she had not paid invoices totaling $1 for her success. Very, very hard." million. Additionally, he charged that he was not given the In addition to opening the Institutes, Rahm6, then 24 opportunity to buy back unsold stock before Rahm€ began years old, was also challenged by Salmon to crack open the discounting. duty-free market for skin care at New York s )FK airport. Reached in Europe, Olivier Creed takes the high road- "The buyers nixed the idea, saying,'People are in a hurry, at least initially. they just buy a gift and go, there are many more men than "It's difficult to discuss the matter because we are in women'and on and on," she recalls. process with her," he says. "So, I really can't talk about her. Not one to be denied, Rahmd concocted a plan. "I But if I could, I would only have very bad things to say'' bought a folding camping table, and I said,'You don't have One of Rahm6's mentors and biggest champions- to give me a case, you don't have to give me space. fust buy a retired LOrdal executive Robert Salmon-isn t entirely small order, and let me come and unfold mylittle table and surprised at the way the Creed contretemps unfolded. I'll work on my own,"'she says. "I knew I would have to sell "Laurice is the type of person who, if she trusts you, she out of all the product in order to convince them. And I did." doesn't always ask you to sign papers," he says, speaking Fast-forward 30 years, and Rahm6's powers of from his home near Lausanne, Switzerland. "So sometimes persuasion are even more formidable. "Rahm6 is brilliant," people can cheat her. She has always suffered, because to a says Kate Oldham, divisional merchandise manager of certain extent, she's very pure. And too often, people were fragrances for Saks, which recently re-upped its specialty not always fair with her." store exclusive with Bond for a second year. "The piece of Not that Salmon hasn't seen the legendary Rahm€ the business that's'theater'-the dramming, the custom temper kick into high gear on occasion. "Oh, she can get pumps-is different from the approach of other brands and crazy)' he says, chuckling. "She asks a lot of herself, and she it makes it very appealing." would like a lot from the other side, too." Rochelle Bloom, president of the Fragrance Foundation' While the split was less contentious, Rahm6's earlier agrees. "In a David & Goliath scenario, she's the David. parting of the ways with Goutal is another reason why she There's nothing that she can't do, because she doesn't see now prefers to go it alone. After acquiring a sizable stake in that she can't do it." the brand in 1989, she introduced it to the U.S. market and As a member of the Fragrance Foundation board of painstakingly built its volume over the next seven years' "It directors, Rahmd can be counted on to make her thoughts was a great adventurej' she says. "But they wanted to grow known.
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