ISSUE #24 SEPTEMBER 4, 2020

A Publication of WWD

Hope in a Bottle As the Fragrance Foundation gets ready to celebrate its first virtual awards ceremony, Beauty Inc turns the spotlight on the next generation of innovation in the category. For more, see pages 8 to 16. PLUS: Tara Simon takes the reins at Too Faced and Douglas Little’s big plans for Heretic. ILLUSTRATION BY AMBER DAY THE BUZZ 2 SEPTEMBER 4, 2020 Beauty Bulletin

synthetic with other top and base notes. Schoen said the approach Beauty enables the brand to educate customers on the fragrances and Companies the brand overall. “We’ve covered most important topics around our See Online product, as well as around our brand, and lots of little insides and Sales Gains background stories,” he said. “We’re within the trend of giving the client During a narrative, because there are so Pandemic many products on the market in The Estée Lauder Cos. each category. There’s such an and L’Oréal both overload, and you need to present generated more than yourself authentically and say, ‘This 20 percent of net sales is what we do, this is our story, this is why we do what we do.’” from e-commerce. Schoen is not the first industry BY ALLISON COLLINS entrepreneur to take on the growing WITH STORES closed in much of space, which has gone through the quarter ended June 30 due to surges in audience with the ongoing the coronavirus pandemic, beauty coronavirus pandemic. Industry companies suffered sharp losses in Escentric Molecules veteran Bobbi Brown has launched brick-and-mortar sales. launched in 2006. two, the most recent of which, E-commerce sales told a different dubbed “Beyond Beauty With story — one of consumers flocking Bobbi Brown,” launched earlier this to the web. “[E-commerce] Escentric Molecules year with iHeartRadio. Outside of increase[s], particularly brand beauty, Busy Philipps and Michelle dot-com and the platforms, is Introduces Podcast Obama have also joined the ranks increasing our direct-to-consumer of podcast hosts. business, which means increasing our data…and our ability to market ¬ Niche fragrance brand Escentric brand's most recent launches, Escentric 05 was meant to invoke [to] these consumers,” said Molecules has taken digital Molecule 05 and Escentric 05, a Mediterranean island. It focuses Estée Lauder president and chief marketing and customer education which launched in March. As with less on marine notes and more executive officer Fabrizio Freda. to new territory with the launch of Escentric Molecules' past launches, on the dry herbs that grow on the Here, see the recent e-commerce its new podcast. which launch in twos, one fragrance coast, with notes of fig, mastic, upticks from some of the world’s The podcast, called “Molecast,” is single-note, and the other cypress and rosemary. Molecule major beauty players. Coty Inc. did is available on the brand’s web pairs the starring note with other 05 is the single-note fragrance, not publicly release information site. For its inaugural episode, complementary scents. Molecule consisting only of cashmeran. around online sales during the most founder Geza Schoen discussed 05 showcases cashmeran by itself, This is the brand's first launch recent quarter. cashmeran, the starring note in the while Escentric 05 couples the since 2017. —James Manso 1. e.l.f. beauty Online sales made up 17 percent of Bulgari Introduces New Glacial Essence Fragrance for Men total sales, or about $11 million for the quarter ended June 30. the press to discover the scent in in-store and online at Macy’s, Bulgari Man 2. the estée lauder cos. Glacial Essence place of a trip to the Alps that was Bloomingdale's, Saks Fifth Avenue, +7 percent year-over-year for the canceled due to COVID-19, but the Neiman Marcus, Dillard's, Ulta fiscal year, to 22 percent of total company made the experience Beauty, and online only at Sephora. sales — $3.1 billion in sales. available for the public this week. Paltridge also spoke of how 3. l’oréal “We had to do something very men are learning to disconnect +64.6 percent for the six months quickly which broke down the to reconnect in their fast-moving ended June 30, to 25 percent of Tk Caption barriers of what we do,” said Daniel lives, and this launch is meant to total sales, or almost 3.3 billion Paltridge, president of Bulgari reflect that. euros. North America. “It was a really Paltridge said the Bulgari 4. procter & gamble quick development because of the Man fragrance series has been +40 percent year-over-year for the situation. Playing in high end, the a successful franchise for the fiscal year, to 10 percent consumer experience and press is company. Even before COVID-19, “ of the overall business — ¬ Bulgari is looking to scale very high on our list of priorities.” especially in the U.S. market, $7 billion in sales. new heights with its newest men's The scent is meant to represent we’re quite bullish about the sales 5. sally beauty scent, Bulgari Man Glacial Essence. “air” and has notes of juniper projections for it,” he said. +278 percent for the quarter, To promote the scent, launching berry, Australian sandalwood and During COVID-19, we’re “ year-over-year, to $137 million. this month, Bulgari developed Alaskan cedarwood. The glass pleasantly surprised by how many 6. shiseido a virtual-reality experience that is packaged in glass supplied by people are buying fragrances and 13 percent of total sales are introduces the perfumer to the manufacturer Stölzle Masnières the robustness of the market,” e-commerce, with a goal to get user, and then takes the user on Parfumerie SAS that uses he added. The men’s part is very to 25 percent by 2023. a journey scaling and ascending renewably sourced electricity. healthy compared to women. 7. ulta beauty the Matterhorn in the Italian Alps. Glacial Essence retails for We’ve always outperformed on Online sales were up 200 percent. The experience was created for $113 for 3.4 oz. and is available men.” —Obi Anyanwu Bulgari photograph by RZV T:11" T:16"

Customer: COTY INC Client: MARC JACOBS INKS 5594359 Campaign: PERFECT_20_USD Job Title: MJ PERFECT BEAUTY INC NEWSLETTER Cyan Magenta 11IN W X 16IN H TBD Format: Agency Job #: Yellow Bleed: 11" x 16" Material Date: 31-Aug-2020 Black Trim: 11" x 16" Cover Date: none Safety: 11" x 16" Page: 1 Current Date: 8-27-2020 2:49 AM 620 8th Ave, 10th Floor, New York, NY, 10018 Users: Janarthanan Pattabiraman (WLT IN)/Janarthanan Creation Date: 8-27-2020 2:49 AM Pattabiraman (WLT IN) Fonts: None

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-EXCLUSIVE- Lauder is looking to Simon to help reverse that trajectory. “We didn’t buy Too Faced to be a niche brand,” said Tara Simon Headed to Too Faced Demsey. “Granted, it’s been faced by The retail veteran has been named senior vice president and global general the same challenges as everyone else, but we believe it has an extraordinary manager of the makeup brand. BY JENNY B. FINE opportunity. It lives well in the world TARA SIMON HAS been named of selling, we thought this was an of digital and influence, and has the senior vice president and global extraordinary opportunity.” ability to move and inspire a younger general manager of Too Faced, Simon has also worked closely with generation.” effective Aug. 31. brand founders Jerrod Blandino and Demsey said Simon’s top Simon is a retail veteran who was Jeremy Johnson, and her outgoing priorities will be establishing a most recently senior vice president personality aligns well with the platform for growth in the U.S. and of merchandising at Ulta Beauty, brand’s ethos. internationally, doubling down where she is credited with “We’ve loved working with her on attracting new customers and establishing the retailer as a in retailer market meetings over identifying white space that makes player in the prestige sector. the years and truly appreciate her sense for the brand. She left that role in November. enthusiasm and support throughout That could include hybrid products At Too Faced, she will report to our relationship,” said Blandino. “She that capitalize on the “skin-ifcation” John Demsey, executive group always had a uniquely Too Faced spark of makeup, rather than completely president of parent company and great perspective and outlook on separate treatment products as Too The Estée Lauder Cos. Inc., the brand and the business.” Faced launched last year. and succeeds Eric Hohl, who Lauder acquired Too Faced for $1.4 “Having a merchant as the head is leaving the brand. billion in 2016, its largest acquisition of the brand, shaping the innovation “Tara is a brand-builder,” to date. The brand was one of the and the levers of brand development said Demsey, who noted buzziest players in what was a and helping Jerrod and Jeremy he met Simon more boom time for makeup. Since, then, channel their creativity and leverage than two decades ago though, the category has declined the Estée Lauder strengths will be when she was a buyer dramatically, particularly in the hugely helpful,” said Demsey, who at Foley’s in Houston. U.S., a situation exacerbated by the added that it’s also good for overall “She is inspirational, coronavirus pandemic. category growth. tough-minded and While Too Faced ranked number “Our industry needs a few things she is Texan-bold. eight in the makeup category in the to be successful for other things to Given her strength in U.S. for the 12 months ending May be successful,” he said. “When people building makeup in 2020, according to The NPD Group, start to buy, they buy more. Having multi-specialty retail overall category sales plummeted, some products or successful new and understanding down 52 percent in the second branded activities is good for the digital and new ways quarter of this year. overall business.”

The Latest Beauty Executive Hires DpHue gets a new chief executive officer, along with other changes at Beth Bennett RichardTk Caption Simpson J.P. McCary Peace Out Skincare and Maesa. BY JAMES MANSO Beth was most recently vice experience growing e-commerce company in a consultant role, J.P. president of global product and and the company's customer McCary has joined Peace Out Skincare Beth Bennett Named Chief promotional marketing and consumer development on Amazon, specifically full time as its chief commercial officer. Executive Officer of DpHue engagement inclusive of digital, social, while Johnson & Johnson's head of Starting this fall, McCary will Direct-to-consumer hair-care CRM and p.r. initiatives at Origins e-commerce in the U.S. Prior to that, transition from a consultant capacity brand DpHue has named a new chief Natural Resources. She also held he was in charge of customer strategy — which he has filled for two years — executive officer: Beth Bennett. several marketing roles at Clinique. in the U.S. for Johnson & Johnson's into the long-term, c-suite role. In a statement from the brand, beauty and personal-care brands, In a statement from the brand, he which has fared particularly well Maesa Taps Richard Simpson as including Aveeno, Roc and Band-Aid. will oversee business growth, notably during the coronavirus pandemic, Senior Vice President, Customer “I could not be more excited to with existing markets and expansion president and chief operating officer Development, North America join the amazing team at Maesa; a efforts into Southeast Asia, the U.K. Martin Okner said its objectives and International company that continues to transform and the United Arab Emirates. moving forward were working with Longtime Johnson & Johnson the beauty incubation model he said In the statement, the brand cited his salon professionals while maintaining executive Richard Simpson has in the statement. expertise in digital, brand development new customer acquisition and joined brand incubator Maesa as its and management, sales and P&L retention rates. “Beth is a visionary, senior vice president of customer J.P. McCary Joins Peace Out growth as strong points. The brand also and talented executive with a deep development, both for North America Skincare Full-time as Chief highlighted his experience with Milk understanding of marketing, consumer and International. Commercial Officer Makeup, the LVMH Group, Pat McGrath needs and experience,” he said. A statement from Maesa cited his After working with the skin-care Labs and The Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. McCary photograph byJulian Marques; Bennett courtesy of DpHue; Simpson by Richard Monsieurs CONGRATULATES OUR 2020 FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION AWARD NOMINEES

and All the 2020 Fragrance Foundation Award Nominees

EsteeLauderCompanies www.ELCompanies.com NEWS FEED 6 SEPTEMBER 4, 2020 Renegade Scent Wave Douglas Little is bringing some good, clean fun to the fragrance category. BY PETE BORN

DOUGLAS LITTLE, the 45-year- old mold-breaking founder of Heretic Parfum, has a flair for the provocative and a taste for alchemy. Working out of a small studio in downtown Los Angeles, he has produced a string of unusual products, all featuring naturally derived ingredients, right down to the alcohol base. Heretic founder Douglas Little. “Fragrance has the ability to alleviate stress, lift depression and “He understands that consumers instantaneously transform the are craving uniqueness and self- ordinary into the extraordinary,” expression and [he] transforms Little said. “It’s magical.” the traditional approach to an An example is his new line ingredient or olfactive structure by of Striptease candles, which he allowing it to be seen through an created with his old friend Dita Von unconventional lens for modern day.” Teese, under the Bougie Burlesque Now Little is spreading his wings, brand. When the candle heats to reflected in the renaming of his a certain temperature, the layer of company to Heretic Beauty. He ink of peek-a-boo clothing cheekily intends to “venture into spaces that disappears, then reappears when the are not your traditional territory for temperature cools. a fragrance brand,” such as the hand Candles from Bougie Burlesque. Little earlier achieved a flash of sanitizer he has been working on for always being 100 percent naturally divisional merchandise manager of notoriety for collaborating with two years. derived,” he said. “There still is a fragrance in the specialty chain. Gwyneth Paltrow on two candles “The future for us is that we are lack of products within the lubricant “It‘s one of our first fragrances with risqué names: “This Smells Like really going to be stepping heavily market. [I want to offer] something with CBD, an ingredient which has My Vagina” and “This Smells Like My into functional.” that is relevant, contemporary, safe been trending in skin care for some Orgasm.” His stable of 15 naturally based and also very effective.” time. “In a short time, the brand Little is unapologetic, noting scents will be flanked by launches This fall Heretic will also introduce has established a strong connection the industry could use a dash of slated for next spring of personal- a couple new fragrances, but Little is with our clients, prompting high irreverence. “Fragrance has become care products, including a sexual keeping his eye on the future. levels of social engagement and too pretentious, and the element lubricant containing CBD, and a “Eventually we will be looking at overwhelmingly positive online of fun, innovation and surprise has body wash scented with essential oils color cosmetics,” he said, noting he is reviews,” she said. been lost,” he said. “I really want to used in his Dirty Lemon fragrance. aiming for a 2022 launch. Little had no comment when asked echo the concept of what it means to There are plans for three more Body care is being planned as a about Heretic’s overall volume, but be a heretic in product development.” Striptease candles. Not surprisingly slow rollout in fall 2021, with prices industry sources estimate that the But Little is interested in in this coronavirus era of heightened expected to fall between $22 to $25; business, which was founded in 2016, much more than being an agent domestic living, Little is stepping up the lubricant will be $45. could hit the $21 million sales mark provocateur. He’s thinking big, his home fragrance effort. But Little hasn’t lost sight of his by the end of 2023. particularly when the conversation The body wash launch is meant as core business of natural fragrances, While there hasn’t been a lot of turns to his devotion to building a a prelude to a full body-care regime. which he produces at the rate of large-scale innovation in the market, full-fledged beauty house founded Little stressed that the personal perhaps four a year. According to aside from the advent of perfumer on products using 100 percent lubricant will contain CBD. “[CBD] design, roughly 65 to 75 percent collections, Little has noticed naturally derived ingredients, provides a relaxing effect and it is of his business was meant to be changes requiring strategy shifts. and demonstrating the efficacy suitable for both partners, specifically direct-to-consumer, with additional “It’s so much better to start off with of those substances for particular for women who have any pain. It also distribution in Credo, Goop, Sephora, an edgy philosophy,” he said. “It’s not types of products. provides relief for anxiety. I have been Bergdorf Goodman and Maxfield’s niche anymore…it’s like you have This is not lost on Dionisio doing a tremendous amount of work in Los Angeles plus sales points in to be a niche of a niche. The days of Ferenc, group president, global fine with various doctors within the sexual London, Paris and Australia. appealing to everyone are over.” fragrance at International Flavors wellness space. There is so much Heretic took another step this year The biggest change, of course, was & Fragrances. “Douglas’ passion anxiety and stress that surrounds sex.” by launching some of its natural the emergence of types of customers, for discovery, his knowledge of The formula is in synch with his fragrances—Florgasm, Dirty Mango, along with new consumer tastes. ingredients, and his desire to do determination to stick to a natural Dirty Grass and Dirty Lemon—into “They are looking for what is the something truly unconventional regime, right down to the organic the Clean at Sephora lineup in April, next thing in fragrance and they are is not only disruptive, but it sugar cane alcohol. “I want our where the fragrances “performed looking for [scents] that have a real is driving new energy into the progress into the expansion of exceptionally well,” according to point of view and a brand that is fragrance industry,” Ferenc said. new products to follow suit with Carye Campbell, vice president and honest in what it is doing,” he said. CONGRATULATIONS TO THE FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION AWARD WINNERS!

FRAGRANCE is CULTURE is FUTURE

Regeneration is our STORY. Radical optimism. Informed creativity. Activist design. Create the way FORWARD. Sustainable. Positive. Powerful. Trust in the COLLECTIVE. Us over other. Diverse over different. Inclusive over separate. Join the MOVEMENT. FirmenichFine #FragranceisCulture #RegenerationReset

Firmenich.com/Regeneration DEEP DIVE The 2020 Fragrance Foundation Awards 8 SEPTEMBER 4, 2020

Designer Diane von Furstenberg with unidentified guests at the Fragrance Foundation Awards in New York.

Steve Bock and John Demsey.

Elizabeth Hurley and Hugh Grant. What to Expect From the 2020 Fragrance Foundation Awards Fragrance Foundation president Linda Levy plans to keep democratization at the forefront of the Foundation’s efforts, both in this year's virtual awards and beyond. BY JAMES MANSO

THIS YEAR’S Fragrance Foundation it’s a bit of a somber time, given all Kilian among its nominees. The other director Julee Wilson, the program Awards ceremony is going online, but that the U.S. has been through, this new category, for Innovative Fragrance aims to highlight voices from that’s not the only change to expect. is exciting,” Levy said, adding she’s Product of the Year, includes ignitable marginalized communities. “There Following closures due to the hoping to make this year’s attendees resin from the Amazon and scented is a tremendous amount of talent coronavirus pandemic, The Fragrance and lineup less insular. “We have a jewelry from Diptyque as nominees. [in the Foundation] but we already Foundation’s 2020 Awards has gone lineup of presenters who are all new Three Consumer Choice Awards will had a very specific heritage, and now the way of most in-person events, with to the fragrance community, and be presented — Women’s Popular, is the time to change,” Levy said. free webinar access for all who wish they’re going to speak about their Women’s Prestige, and Men’s Prestige; Levy also mentioned widening to attend when it airs on Sept. 10 from passion for fragrance,” she said. voting closed on Aug. 31. membership opportunities for niche 12:00 p.m. EDT to 1:30 p.m. EDT. Those presenters include superstars Although Levy is democratizing founders, including networking, Linda Levy, president of the Cher and Lionel Richie, among others. the event, her inclusion efforts are mentorship and media visibility Foundation, predicts turnout will be The event will kick off with not limited to the ceremony’s air opportunities, as points of note. the same as last year’s event in the opening remarks from Fragrance date. Levy will also take the time to However, the Foundation is David H. Koch theater with 1,000 Foundation chairman Jerry Vittoria, highlight some of the Foundation’s extending its outreach to the attendees. “This year to last year, who is also the head of fine fragrance, initiatives, such as its latest, titled consumers and community, as well, we have an endless capacity. Even North America at Firmenich. Diversity, Equity & Inclusion. Based organizing self-care packages of though this was the biggest income- The awards will also feature new off of a core team of entrepreneurs, product and fragrances to the generating event of the year, we’re categories, including Universal including The Phluid Project’s Rob New York City nurses of Mount making it free to everyone,” Levy said. Prestige and Universal Luxury Smith, designer Jason Wu, Chris Sinai, and continuing its fundraising One goal is to buoy up an industry categories for genderless products, Collins from The World of Chris partnership with Next for Autism

hard-hit by the pandemic. “Although which features Gucci, Byredo and Collins, and Cosmopolitan beauty with a virtual AARMY exercise class. Furstenberg photograph by John Bright; Hurley and Dempsey Fairchild Archive

DEEP DIVE The 2020 Fragrance Foundation Awards 10 SEPTEMBER 4, 2020

The 2020 Fragrance Foundation Awards Nominations The Fragrance Foundation Awards honor the year’s top introductions, and reflect the evolving fragrance scene. Joining traditional category segments like men’s and women’s, this year there's also a universal category for gender-neutral scents. BY JAMES MANSO

Fragrance of the Year: Women’s Luxury Editions de Parfums Jo Malone London Gucci The Alchemist's Frédéric Malle Violet & Amber Absolu YSL Libre Eau de Parfum Garden A Song for the Rose Tom Ford Soleil Neige The Estée Lauder The Estée Lauder L'Oréal Companies Coty Companies Tom Ford Beauty Supplier:IFF Perfumer: Supplier:Firmenich Supplier:IFF Supplier:Givaudan Perfumers:Anne Flipo, Jean-Claude Ellena Perfumer:Alberto Morillas Perfumer:Anne Flipo Perfumer:Olivier Gillotin Carlos Benaïm

Fragrance of the Year: Women’s Prestige Lancôme Idôle L'Interdit Givenchy Nest New York Wild L’Oréal Eau de Toilette Poppy Eau de Parfum Tiffany & Love for Her Supplier:Givaudan LVMH Chanel Gabrielle Nest New York Coty Perfumer: Adriana Supplier:IFF Chanel Essence Medina, Shyamala Perfumer:Dominique Supplier:Robertet Supplier:Firmenich Supplier:Chanel Maisondieu, Nadege Ropion, Anne Flipo, Perfumer: Perfumer:Honorine Blanc, Perfumer:Olivier Polge Le Garlantezec Fanny Bal Jérôme Epinette Marie Salamagne

Fragrance of the Year: Men’s Prestige Montblanc Explorer John Varvatos JV x NJ Interparfums Silver Edition K by Dolce & Gabbana Ralph Lauren Polo Versace Eros Flame Supplier:Givaudan Revlon Shiseido Blue Gold Blend EuroItalia Perfumer: L’Oréal Supplier:Symrise Supplier:Firmenich Olivier Pescheux, Supplier:Givaudan Perfumer:Carlos Viñals, Perfumer:Daphné Bugey, Antoine Maisondieu, Supplier:IFF Perfumer: Nathalie Benareau Nathalie Lorson Jordi Fernandez Perfumer:Carlos Benaïm Olivier Pescheux

Fragrance of the Year: Men’s Luxury Gucci the Alchemist's Straight to Heaven Dior Sauvage Parfum Garden the Voice House of Sillage Ignacio Figueras Extreme by Kilian the Formal LVMH of the Snake Buenos Aires The Estée Lauder House of Sillage Supplier:Parfums Coty The Lovely Distribution Companies Company Christian Dior Supplier:Firmenich Supplier:Givaudan Supplier:Robertet Supplier:IFF Perfumer: Perfumer: Perfumer: Perfumer: François Demachy Alberto Morillas Rodrigo Flores-Roux Perfumer:Yves Cassar Sidonie Lancesseur DEEP DIVE The 2020 Fragrance Foundation Awards 11 SEPTEMBER 4, 2020

Fragrance of the Year: Universal Luxury

Creed Aventus Cologne Gucci The Alchemist's International Cosmetics Rolling in Love by Kilian Tom Ford Lavender Byredo Sundazed & Perfumes Garden The Eyes of the Tiger The Estée Lauder Extreme Byredo Supplier:The House Coty Companies Tom Ford Beauty Supplier:Robertet of Creed Supplier:Firmenich Supplier:IFF Supplier:Givaudan Perfumer:Jérôme Epinette Perfumer:Olivier Creed Perfumer:Alberto Morillas Perfumer:Pascal Gaurin Perfumers:Olivier Gillotin

Fragrance of the Year: Universal Prestige

Atelier Cologne Gucci Mémoire d'une Kilian After Sunset Allsaints Sunset Riot Pacific Lime Odeur Eau de Parfum The Estée Lauder Revlon L’Oréal Coty Companies Supplier:Firmenich Supplier:Robertet Supplier:Firmenich Supplier:Givaudan Perfumer:Gabriela Chelariu Perfumer:Jérôme Epinette Perfumer:Alberto Morillas Perfumer:Calice Becker

Fragrance of the Year: Popular

Kylie Jenner by KKW Wild Spirit Fragrances Ariana Grande Hello by Lionel Richie Fragrance (Nude) The Phluid Project Rosy Glow Thank U Next The Lovely Distribution KKW Fragrance Transcend Raw Spirit Luxe Brands Company Supplier:Givaudan Scent Beauty Supplier:Mane Supplier:Robertet Supplier:Firmenich Perfumer:Nicole Mancini, Supplier:Firmenich Perfumer: Perfumer:Jérôme Epinette Perfumer:Dora Baghriche Rodrigo Flores-Roux Perfumer:Gabriela Chelariu Gino Percontino

Fragrance of the Year: Hall of Fame

Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle Musc Victoria's Secret Curve for Men Ravageur Lancôme Trésor Philosophy Very Sexy Amazing Grace Revlon The Estée Lauder L’Oréal Victoria’s Secret Supplier:IFF Companies Supplier:IFF Coty Supplier:Firmenich Perfumer: Supplier:Symrise Perfumer: Supplier:Mane Perfumer: Jean Claude Delville Perfumer:Maurice Roucel Sophia Grojsman Perfumer:Cecile Hua Jean Claude Delville DEEP DIVE The 2020 Fragrance Foundation Awards 12 SEPTEMBER 4, 2020

Indie Fragrance of the Year

Miller Harris Blousy Thom Browne Eric Buterbaugh Notorious Oud by Miller Harris 09.27.65 Vetyver Absolute Byredo Slow Dance Los Angeles Oud Saffron D. S. & Durga Supplier: Thom Browne New York Byredo Puig Accords & Parfums D. S. & Durga Supplier:Givaudan Supplier:Robertet Supplier:Firmenich Perfumer: Supplier:Firmenich Perfumers: Perfumer:Jérôme Epinette Perfumer:Ilias Ermenidis Bertrand Duchaufour Perfumer:David Moltz Rodrigo Flores-Roux

Consumer Choice: Women’s Popular Philosophy Ariana Grande Eau De Juice Pure Sugar Amazing Grace Magnolia Thank U Next Cher Eau de Couture Luxe Brands in partnership Coty Luxe Brands Scent Beauty with Cosmopolitan Supplier:IFF Supplier:Robertet Supplier:Firmenich Supplier:Firmenich Perfumer: Perfumer:Jérôme Epinette Perfumer:Clément Gavarry Perfumer:Clément Gavarry Laurent Le Guernec

Consumer Choice: Women’s Victoria's Secret Prestige Bombshell Intense Victoria’s Secret Carolina Herrera Good Marc Jacobs YSL Libre Eau De Parfum Daisy Love Eau So Sweet Supplier:Givaudan Girl Eau de Parfum Légère L’Oréal Perfumer: Puig Coty Adriana Medina, Supplier:IFF Supplier:Givaudan Supplier:Firmenich Stephen Nilsen, Perfumer:Anne Flipo, Perfumer:Louise Turner Perfumer:Alberto Morillas John Gamba Carlos Benaïm

Consumer Choice of the Year: Men’s Montblanc Explorer Interparfums

BOSS Bottled Infinite Supplier:Givaudan Versace Eros Flame Coty Perfumer: EuroItalia Olivier Pescheux, Supplier:Firmenich Antoine Maisondieu, Supplier:Givaudan Perfumer:Annick Menardo Jordi Fernandez Perfumer:Olivier Pescheux

Fragrance Innovative Product of Diptyque the Year Prêts-à-Parfumer Nest New York Smart Costa Brazil Diptyque Hyascent Home Fragrance Diffuser Resina de Breu Hourglass Diffuser Powered by Pura Supplier:Firmenich, Mane, Miller Harris Scherzo Costa Brazil Hyascent Nest New York Fragonard, Givaudan Tattoo Pen Supplier:Natural Resin Supplier:Cosmo Supplier:IFF Perfumer: Miller Harris from the Amazon Fabrice Pellegrin, International Fragrances Perfumer: Perfumer: Serge Kalouguine, Perfumer: Supplier:Robertet Anja Van Kippersluis The Amazon Rainforest Olivier Pescheux Constance Georges-Picot Perfumer:Mathieu Nardin Brain, Laura French Robertet warmly congratulates the 2020 Fragrance Foundation Awards Finalists DEEP DIVE The 2020 Fragrance Foundation Awards 14 SEPTEMBER 4, 2020

from top left: Chris Collins, Camille Le Feuvre, Veronique Gabai, Rob Smith, Cat Chen. from bottom left: Sue Phillips, Eric Korman, David Moltz, BeeTk Shapiro. Caption

DOES SEX STILL SELL? The category itself was down For fragrance, at least, the answer is 32 percent in the second quarter, Indie Fragrance increasingly unclear. Battered by the according to The NPD Group, with fallout from the coronavirus pandemic ancillaries and home fragrances as and confronted with a consumer bright spots. But niche fragrances are Founders Redefine base who wants accountability and outperforming the general market, accessibility from the brands they and greater success for the industry’s patronize, the category is facing a independent owners suggests Relevance reckoning as consumer interest in consumer interest in personal traditional modes of scent marketing fragrance hasn’t disappeared — it Traditionally built on luxury and seduction, fragrance starts to wane. just relies on a customer who expects marketers are looking at new ways to reestablish the While the category was struggling product education, empowering category's relevance. even before the coronavirus messaging and an authentic brand BY JAMES MANSO COLLAGE BY LIDIA MOORE pandemic and the social justice story, even from a category whose movement, in the first half of the appeal was in its mystery. year, scent has been among the Even Macy's Inc., the largest hardest hit categories in beauty. retailer of prestige fragrances in the Part of the problem lies in the U.S., is adjusting its approach. While fact that people are going out less customer replenishment is fueling and simply wearing less scent. online sales, the retailer is pivoting to But at a time when consumers are bring the beauty counter experience more interested than ever about the home, according to Nata Dvir, senior products they use and the companies vice president and general manager that produce them, traditional of beauty and center core at Macy’s. fragrance marketing often seems out “We have a quiz online that narrows of step. High-budget ad campaigns down our assortment for customers. focused on seduction aren’t appealing Sampling is really important, so we to consumers the way they used to, sample pretty heavily with all of our and supporting social causes is much Macy’s purchases,” she said. more en vogue. Dvir has noticed a shift toward„ DEEP DIVE The 2020 Fragrance Foundation Awards 15 SEPTEMBER 4, 2020

a more ingredient-conscious mind- for Shapiro’s strategy. “The basis a brand or as a brand owner,” said set. “There’s two types of customers: of fragrance is about attraction. Chris Collins, founder of The World those who really care about the But what does ‘sexy’ mean? That of Chris Collins. brand, and the other [who] is Key has changed,” Shapiro said. “Sex Collins has seen a burgeoning really engaged with the ingredient will always be a part of fragrance interest in discovery sets, but has still story, what ingredients are in the Takeaways marketing, but I just want to feel rethought his overall communications juice. We’ve seen a lot of emerging good. I want that little moment, this strategy to offer consumers an 1. Fragrance is about fragrances that are more clean and attraction, but overtly sexual little escape. You’re transported away experience more consistent with his sourced differently,” she said. marketing is giving way to the for a second,” she added. brand. “There’s been an emphasis on Sustainability in packaging is feel-good factor. Shapiro also underscored that storytelling and my concentration also of much greater interest. the Coronavirus pandemic and on being able to translate my story “There’s more conversation around 2. Storytelling is the new social unrest contributed to her through my site: my story, the story sampling. ingredients and packaging. Brands positioning of fragrance as self-care. of the fragrances,” he said. “We all are thinking about eco-friendly 3. Inclusivity and authenticity “The circumstances we’re living in, have no choice but to pay attention to packaging and how they source their is top of mind, as consumers it’s really hard. Beauty, what we can our online presence, because it’s the ingredients, and it’s a bigger part of move from a luxury mindset to offer as a beauty brand and not just a only way to get people to engage.” what’s happening.” one of conscious consumption. fragrance brand, is that mini escape.” Along with engagement, other Beyond the juice itself, innovation Also shifting the conversation brands are taking a long view in their has also shifted. “Different brands is an increasingly discerning approach to messaging, either by have done a nice job of thinking Shapiro, founder of Ellis Brooklyn. consumer base, for whom the word talking up to a customer discerning about how to talk to the customer,” “What is the impact of a glossy “parfum” on an ingredient list about fragrance or using language Dvir said. “From marketing, I’ve magazine? Not that much. What’s doesn’t cut it. “Consumers are really that doesn’t cater to a gendered seen more investment in digital and the impact of TV when everybody savvy. Everybody today is a brand. consumer base. social display. We love to animate is streaming?” she continued. “If Everyone's on their cell phones. For the fragrance brand Phlur, our stores, and we’ve seen a lot of you think about those methods Everybody's got a YouTube channel, a white space in the category for a the marketing to be more for social of marketing, those distribution Instagram, Twitter, Facebook,” said fine fragrance that doesn’t adhere to engagement,” she said. channels have gone down.” Sue Phillips of Sue Phillips Fragrance, traditional notions of sex and gender For younger niche brands without Shapiro herself is expanding Ellis a bespoke perfumer on New York’s was the impetus for its founding in hefty marketing budgets, though, the Brooklyn’s reach beyond social Upper East Side. 2016. “The fragrance industry writ challenge is more of an uphill battle. media with a foray into Shoploop, Phillips, who developed fragrances large hasn’t changed anything about “How do you sell fragrance without a video-based social commerce for Avon and Burberry before their go-to market strategy for 50, 60 putting it on your skin?” said Mindy platform incubated by Google. “You venturing out on her own, sees years,” said founder Eric Korman. “The Yang, founder of the Perfumarie, a go on, make a video talking about traditional campaigns as staid. “We messaging is still driven by celebrity niche fragrance retailer and brand the products, and talk about the all have the opportunity to reflect our and designer fragrances, but that’s incubator on Lafayette Street in New details and why you like something,” individuality, our personality,” she really not about fragrance, it’s just an York. “If a product is beautiful and has she said, thereby giving potential said. “As a result, the old marketing entry point for a brand,” he said. really good claims, but luxury in terms customers a skin-care-like, education- of, ‘be gorgeous so that you can be Phlur focuses on clean ingredients of price point and you don’t get that based approach. sexy so that the man will whisk you and unisex offerings, with an emphasis song-and-dance at Bergdorf Goodman, She also oversaw the brand’s social off and take you to the promised on reimagining how consumers how is that going to help the brand expansions onto Instagram Reels and land,’ that doesn't fly anymore interact with the juice itself, rather connect with the consumer?” TikTok. “We care a lot about traditional because that isn't what happens.” than on traditional marketing. “It For niche founders, the white space channels but we’re just super open to To that end, the aspirational represents that brands were really is in the marketing: traditional tactics anything that’s new. We want to stay sexiness of traditional ad campaigns stuck in how they communicated like attraction and aspiration feel open in how we communicate to our ultimately rings false for a younger to customers, using sex[ist] and dated to many Millennial and Gen Z customers,” she added. customer. “Each brand’s identity misogynistic images, rather than consumers, especially in the digital The shifting conversations has to be believable, and you can’t talking about what fragrance is, what age. “I haven’t seen many fragrance around gender, sex, seduction and just take on that sexy, romantic aura role it can play in your life, and how brands activate online,” said Bee equality serve as the undercurrent unless that’s something you exude as you wear it,” Korman said.„ DEEP DIVE The 2020 Fragrance Foundation Awards 16 SEPTEMBER 4, 2020

The demand for social justice her eponymous fragrances earlier this the clean sector, are revealing their product on your skin, and safety. is also having an impact on the year, the story is of her own childhood ingredient lists. Two, we thought about it from an fragrance category. For a category in the south of France. “Consumers are way more environmental footprint, and are once predicated on exclusivity, “When I launched the brand a intelligent and conscious. Conscious the ingredients sustainable and not inclusivity is now paramount. Rob few months ago, I was talking about consumerism is what I’d definite drawing negatively on the earth’s Smith, founder of The Phluid Project, the source of inspiration, and the it as,” said Yang. “I welcome this resources,” he said. which launched its first scents earlier sensation it gives you, and the feeling movement, it’s really important to Gabai ran into a similar problem, this year, thinks brands needs to it gives you,” she said. “I have not have options and choose what you and ultimately settled on offsetting her appeal to broader audiences if they spoken very often about what’s in my need and what works for you.” environmental impact by planting trees ever hope to capture their spending fragrances necessarily because that’s a For clean fragrance brand Skylar, in the Mediterranean with part of her power. “If [advertising] doesn’t reflect secondary message.” the brand is just as much about safety sales revenue. “We’re trying to bridge a broader community, if it looks like Gabai’s take on the messaging is less as it is about transparency. “The luxury with sustainability. Each bottle a skinny, beautiful white woman, it that seduction is irrelevant, and more fragrance itself is not necessarily bad, is refillable, so the idea is you have one feels like a disconnect if a brand isn’t that the idea of escape, à la Shapiro, there’s some ingredients that can beautiful object you’ll buy once, and able to communicate the diversity of has a stronger connotation with potentially produce harm to the body the refill bottles are recyclable, so it’s their consumer base,” he said. customers. “The bulk of fragrances that’s often in fragrance, those are this idea that you can surround yourself Authenticity, both in lived values are sold as a social tool or as a way to the bad ones,” said Cat Chen, founder. with beautiful design but it doesn’t have from a brand and its messaging, seduce the other kind, and if you look “Some customers feel like they can’t to land in the landfill,” she said. hasn’t escaped customers’ zoomed- at the bulk of fragrance marketing, it’s get enough information so they write Other brands have found success in scrutiny, especially in an election all about that. It’s a seduction play,” she off the entire category.” bringing a clean rulebook to other year. Some brands have struggled said. “In periods when you can’t even Younger consumers show more formats. Camille Le Feuvre, founder with striking the right tone with a go out, is that message resonating?” interest than older customer bases, of Paris-based pH Fragrances, has socially conscious audience, but for Rather, Gabai agrees with a Chen said. She tracks site clicks to brought her clean-minded approach David Moltz, cofounder of D.S. & transparent brand story, especially product ingredient labels, and sees a to fine fragrance to home fragrance, Durga, which launched in 2007, it’s as the new generation of customers real interest from younger customers including her hero laundry detergent. all about staying positive. shows a stronger sense of marketing on what goes into a product. “They’re She was even able to get the regulated “It's a very delicate time to try to spins than past ones. “Young people going onto our web site and figuring product claims on detergent in France, appeal to any consumer — you should are extremely marketing-savvy. They out our ingredient lists. They’re regarding bioaccumulating ingredients, not try to appeal to the consumer. can read through the line quicker curious intellectually about what removed from her product labelling. You should be who you are, do your than anyone else,” she said. “There are specifically is in and not in the “Our laundry detergent is research and be careful what you also a lot more people today looking products,” she said. biodegradable with fragrance say and try to be supportive and for an authentic connection with a Clean fragrance is also fertile ingredients selected and sourced respectful of other people,” Moltz said. sustainably,” Le Feuvre said. “The That being said, Moltz isn’t afraid younger generation is looking for to take a stance. “There is a fear in “It sounds corny, but this idea of a brands engaged with the planet, the cancel culture that you have to especially during this COVID-19 be careful about what you say and genuine message and authentic story period, and they don’t want the same how you say it. I would rather use resonates much more with them than fragrances as my generation.” my voice for things I believe in and Several niche founders discovered for positive messages,” he said. For traditional rules of the game.” that younger customers don’t example, he points to a hypothetical: just want different scents from ­—veronique gabai instead of voicing disdain for the their parents, but different scents presidential administration, from everyone else. Phillips has he’d rather urge followers on the found success with her lifestyle brand’s business accounts to vote brand. It sounds corny, but this idea ground for innovation, especially questionnaire, which asks customers in November’s general election. of a genuine message and authentic with the conception that brands about everything from their favorite Beyond politics, Moltz counts story resonates much more with them based entirely on naturals are foods to their favorite artists, and she transparency between him and than traditional rules of the game.” less complex olfactively than narrows down olfactive families and partner/wife Kavi Ahuja as equally Similarly, Phillips thinks a cluttered traditional fragrances. “Naturals notes via its results. crucial. “Having a specific voice that's market has led to a growing sense of are wonderful, but just saying it Yang has a similar approach for her real is something, having access to skepticism from consumers. “There is not enough,” said Shapiro, who Lafayette Street atelier, likening it to us,” he said. “You can tell that we're is not enough differentiation. There uses green chemistry alongside a tasting room. “It’s a little more of just two people. We're a couple of are so many fragrances that are not naturally sourced ingredients. “We a hospitality approach, cultivating a kids from Brooklyn and we're not developed for the brand itself, but as use a high percentage of naturals, but relationship without the branding,” she always on top of the world.” another category in a portfolio. So innovation is super key. We have ISO- said. The purpose is twofold, giving Chris Collins, on the other hand, if they have 10 fragrances, then they Gamma Super, which is made with Perfumarie’s brands a low entry point knows politics play a role, but sees his say, ‘let's have another two, three or green chemistry and is allergen-free,” to the retail landscape, and moving fragrances as an extension of himself. four,’” Phillips said. she said. The synthetic note can act product. “A maker can have access to Buying into his glamorous point of This also makes consumers as a stand-alone scent or amplify any retail by applying and learning before view is what resonates the most with question the personalities attached other fragrances in the line. spending a lot of money on introducing consumers for him. “There are very to their fragrances, which either Korman also sees a similar drive for a product into the market,” she said. few brand owners of color, so that capitalize on the personas of the cleaner, more sustainable fragrances Gabai sells two booster fragrances separates me from most of the brands celebrities they’re attached to, or that compete in complexity with alongside her normal scents, which can on the market, and there’s this sense act as an inexpensive entry point to leading producers. “Young consumers be blended with any of her stand-alone of the stories. It’s my stories and luxury goods. “There have been so are demanding smarter moves on scents. Not only do they give customers perspective on fragrance, my style many celebrity fragrances. Now, they materials choices whereas in the past, a chance to blend a fragrance to their and packaging. Everything exudes are no longer sort of the fragrance du they may not have,” he said. “Equally liking, it also provides a one-of-a-kind elegance and luxury and an all-around jour, the designer fragrances, celebrity as important, thinking about their reprieve from the sweet fragrance comfortability in perfume,” he said. fragrances,” Phillips added. “So many environmental and packaging choices.” signatures that have driven Gabai to Otherwise, authenticity can steer fragrances are just me-toos.” Sustainability and clean nausea in the past decade. clear of politics altogether. In the Perhaps most notably, many ingredients, though, often don't go Part of the boosters’ efficacy is in case of Veronique Gabai, former brands have translated the desire hand-in-hand. Naturals, for example, their quality. “Being a perfumer is chief executive officer of Vera Wang for authenticity as transparency on often have a greater environmental being an artist and a craftsman,” she and brand group president of the their ingredient lists. Opting away impact than synthetics. “We thought said. “We’re going to rediscover the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc., Aramis and from the “parfum” wording on most about what goes in the bottle from whole fragrance community, and then Designer Fragrances, who launched labels, many brands, particularly in two lanes. One, the efficacy of that we’ll rediscover craft.” ■ CUL U R E CONFERENCE Sustainability & the Human Element

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FRAGRANCE HAS HAD a tough first half of the year. According to NPD, the category fell 13 percent in the first quarter, and 37 percent in the second, but consumer interest A Bounty for Fall seems to be on the rebound ahead of the holidays. “It’s a critical time, New launches are a cause for optimism for the second half of the year. but it seems like demand is there,” BY JAMES MANSO said Larissa Jensen, vice president of beauty at the NPD Group. “It’s a question of whether or not the supply will be there.” Brands are responding with newness, including launches

3 from Dior, Valentino, Giorgio Armani, 2 and a first fragrance from Rebecca Minkoff. Sustainability is also top of mind, as with Acqua di Parma's newest eau de cologne. 1 1. REBECCA MINKOFF EAU DE PARFUM, $55 TO $95. For the designer’s first fragrance, jasmine and tobacco coupled with patchouli match her rough-meets- soft, rocker-chic aesthetic.

2. GIORGIO ARMANI MY WAY EAU 4 DE PARFUM, $74 TO $126. Jasmine, tuberose and orange blossom are layered over base notes of vanilla and cedarwood for the latest blockbuster from the house.

3. ROSES ON ICE BY KILIAN, $195. 5 One of two new scents in Kilian’s new “Liquors” olfactive family, the fragrance 7 encapsulates gin on the rocks with cucumber and juniper berries, alongside rose centifolia and sandalwood. 10 4. VALENTINO VOCE VIVA, $100. 6 With ginger for spice and orange blossom for florality, the scent is rounded out with vanilla and sandalwood.

5. TUMI AWAKEN EAU DE PARFUM, $100. Meant to stimulate on-the-go travelers (or even those grounded by COVID-19), this has uplifting notes of grapefruit, clary sage and cedarwood.

9 6. DIOR J’ADORE EAU DE PARFUM 8 INFINISSIME, $115 TO $145. For the latest iteration of the J’Adore powerhouse franchise, sandalwood and tuberose enhance the original floral formula.

7. ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA FURTURA EAU DE COLOGNE, $170. A first for the brand with 99 percent natural ingredients, top notes of bergamot, citrus and pink pepper and base notes of vetiver play to the brand’s Italian heritage.

8. JO MALONE FIG & LOTUS FLOWER COLOGNE, $72 TO $142. The more floral of the two new scents in Jo Malone's “Lost in Wonder” collection, fig leaf and lotus flower reference the line’s inspiration: ancient hanging gardens.

9. PERFECT MARC JACOBS EAU DE PARFUM, $96 TO $128. Top notes like rhubarb and daffodil give the fragrance its floral quality with base notes of almond milk and cashmeran for warmth.

10. MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN L’HOMME À LA ROSE, $165 TO $275. Two different roses — damask and centifolia — pair with grapefruit for the masculine iteration of the perfumer’s

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Learning Curve For this year’s virtual Awards, the Fragrance Foundation corralled an all-star lineup of presenters, each of whom has recently entered the fragrance category. Here, their thoughts on their adopted industry. BY JENNY B. FINE

THE DAYS OF celebs putting their name on a scent and waiting for the “My first journey to the Amazon was a royalties to roll in are long gone. Today, personal trip. I felt compelled to go so I simply most are intimately involved in the went on my own. It was the most challenging process, working along perfumers to trip I have ever been on. Spiritually, physically, channel their olfactive memories into mentally, it was a trip of expansion. a tangible product that represents “I did not really know what to expect until their essence and will resonate with On this trip is where I first encountered Théo Spilka from Firmenich brought me to consumers. Here, WWD Beauty Inc breu, a resin used by the Yawanawa tribe my first Fragrance Foundation Awards two asked four recent entrants into the freely throughout the day as a homeopathic years ago. I was asked by a journalist on category about their experience in antimicrobial and mosquito repellent but also the red carpet what fragrance I wore and venturing into a new métier. during their most special ceremonies. What I responded, ”I haven’t found that perfect drew me to breu is the scent of the smoke it scent…because I haven’t created it yet.” emitted; it is rich, earthy and intoxicating. It I said it spontaneously, but I realized that has become the epicenter of Costa Brazil. we were really going to do it…and soon. Breu is perfect, in its rawness, this naturally I was filled more than ever, with the passion occurring sap of the earth. The smell brings to create my first men’s and women’s me right back to the center of the forest and fragrances with perfumer Dora Baghriche. to this feeling of being so small in the clutches I learned about the materials, the exotic of Mother Nature.” — Francisco Costa places they are responsibly sourced from, and the families of the farmers who benefit from every bottle that’s sold. I learned how, like music, the notes are composed and a beautiful, timeless memory brings all the emotions together. I learned what a beautiful place the perfume world really is. I plan to be in it for a long time...” — Lionel Richie

“The process was detailed, long, fun and thought-provoking. In our minds and hearts, we had been creating the memories and thoughts for many years, and they were the sparks for the soul of the collection. Throughout the “I learned that I wore everyone’s last nerve creation process, I was able to revisit all in my effort to get the scent just right. I’m of the emotions connected to our travels really picky. The team and Théo Spilka — and then captured them in each of the who were wonderful — would fly in with a fragrances. I learned how many facets working version and I would wear it for a there are to a memory and by working with few days and then decide, ‘I do not want to the different amazing teams we could turn wear this anymore’ and they had to go back emotions into scents, packaging, and the and work on it some more. I would not put brand itself…and it was super exciting and my name on something that I didn’t love. In fun to create as a family.”

the end, it was worth it.” — Cher — Delfina Blaquier and Nacho Figueras Costa photograph by Weston Wells