ISSUE #24 SEPTEMBER 4, 2020 A Publication of WWD Hope in a Bottle As the Fragrance Foundation gets ready to celebrate its first virtual awards ceremony, Beauty Inc turns the spotlight on the next generation of innovation in the category. For more, see pages 8 to 16. PLUS: Tara Simon takes the reins at Too Faced and Douglas Little’s big plans for Heretic. ILLUSTRATION BY AMBER DAY THE BUZZ 2 SEPTEMBER 4, 2020 Beauty Bulletin synthetic with other top and base notes. Schoen said the approach Beauty enables the brand to educate customers on the fragrances and Companies the brand overall. “We’ve covered most important topics around our See Online product, as well as around our brand, and lots of little insides and Sales Gains background stories,” he said. “We’re within the trend of giving the client During a narrative, because there are so Pandemic many products on the market in The Estée Lauder Cos. each category. There’s such an and L’Oréal both overload, and you need to present generated more than yourself authentically and say, ‘This 20 percent of net sales is what we do, this is our story, this is why we do what we do.’” from e-commerce. Schoen is not the first industry BY ALLISON COLLINS entrepreneur to take on the growing WITH STORES closed in much of space, which has gone through the quarter ended June 30 due to surges in audience with the ongoing the coronavirus pandemic, beauty coronavirus pandemic. Industry companies suffered sharp losses in Escentric Molecules veteran Bobbi Brown has launched brick-and-mortar sales. launched in 2006. two, the most recent of which, E-commerce sales told a different dubbed “Beyond Beauty With story — one of consumers flocking Bobbi Brown,” launched earlier this to the web. “[E-commerce] Escentric Molecules year with iHeartRadio. Outside of increase[s], particularly brand beauty, Busy Philipps and Michelle dot-com and the platforms, is Introduces Podcast Obama have also joined the ranks increasing our direct-to-consumer of podcast hosts. business, which means increasing our data…and our ability to market ¬ Niche fragrance brand Escentric brand's most recent launches, Escentric 05 was meant to invoke [to] these consumers,” said Molecules has taken digital Molecule 05 and Escentric 05, a Mediterranean island. It focuses Estée Lauder president and chief marketing and customer education which launched in March. As with less on marine notes and more executive officer Fabrizio Freda. to new territory with the launch of Escentric Molecules' past launches, on the dry herbs that grow on the Here, see the recent e-commerce its new podcast. which launch in twos, one fragrance coast, with notes of fig, mastic, upticks from some of the world’s The podcast, called “Molecast,” is single-note, and the other cypress and rosemary. Molecule major beauty players. Coty Inc. did is available on the brand’s web pairs the starring note with other 05 is the single-note fragrance, not publicly release information site. For its inaugural episode, complementary scents. Molecule consisting only of cashmeran. around online sales during the most founder Geza Schoen discussed 05 showcases cashmeran by itself, This is the brand's first launch recent quarter. cashmeran, the starring note in the while Escentric 05 couples the since 2017. —James Manso 1. e.l.f. beauty Online sales made up 17 percent of Bulgari Introduces New Glacial Essence Fragrance for Men total sales, or about $11 million for the quarter ended June 30. Bulgari Man the press to discover the scent in in-store and online at Macy’s, 2. the estée lauder cos. Glacial Essence place of a trip to the Alps that was Bloomingdale's, Saks Fifth Avenue, +7 percent year-over-year for the canceled due to COVID-19, but the Neiman Marcus, Dillard's, Ulta fiscal year, to 22 percent of total company made the experience Beauty, and online only at Sephora. sales — $3.1 billion in sales. available for the public this week. Paltridge also spoke of how 3. l’oréal “We had to do something very men are learning to disconnect +64.6 percent for the six months quickly which broke down the to reconnect in their fast-moving ended June 30, to 25 percent of Tk Caption barriers of what we do,” said Daniel lives, and this launch is meant to total sales, or almost 3.3 billion Paltridge, president of Bulgari reflect that. euros. North America. “It was a really Paltridge said the Bulgari 4. procter & gamble quick development because of the Man fragrance series has been +40 percent year-over-year for the situation. Playing in high end, the a successful franchise for the fiscal year, to 10 percent consumer experience and press is company. Even before COVID-19, “ of the overall business — ¬ Bulgari is looking to scale very high on our list of priorities.” especially in the U.S. market, $7 billion in sales. new heights with its newest men's The scent is meant to represent we’re quite bullish about the sales 5. sally beauty scent, Bulgari Man Glacial Essence. “air” and has notes of juniper projections for it,” he said. +278 percent for the quarter, To promote the scent, launching berry, Australian sandalwood and During COVID-19, we’re “ year-over-year, to $137 million. this month, Bulgari developed Alaskan cedarwood. The glass pleasantly surprised by how many 6. shiseido a virtual-reality experience that is packaged in glass supplied by people are buying fragrances and 13 percent of total sales are introduces the perfumer to the manufacturer Stölzle Masnières the robustness of the market,” e-commerce, with a goal to get user, and then takes the user on Parfumerie SAS that uses he added. The men’s part is very to 25 percent by 2023. a journey scaling and ascending renewably sourced electricity. healthy compared to women. 7. ulta beauty the Matterhorn in the Italian Alps. Glacial Essence retails for We’ve always outperformed on Online sales were up 200 percent. The experience was created for $113 for 3.4 oz. and is available men.” —Obi Anyanwu Bulgari photograph by RZV T:11" T:16" Customer: COTY INC Client: MARC JACOBS INKS 5594359 Campaign: PERFECT_20_USD Job Title: MJ PERFECT BEAUTY INC NEWSLETTER Cyan Magenta 11IN W X 16IN H TBD Format: Agency Job #: Yellow Bleed: 11" x 16" Material Date: 31-Aug-2020 Black Trim: 11" x 16" Cover Date: none Safety: 11" x 16" Page: 1 Current Date: 8-27-2020 2:49 AM 620 8th Ave, 10th Floor, New York, NY, 10018 Users: Janarthanan Pattabiraman (WLT IN)/Janarthanan Creation Date: 8-27-2020 2:49 AM Pattabiraman (WLT IN) Fonts: None Link Names: MJ_PERFECT_PACKSHOT_F600_RGB.tif (912 ppi, RGB), MJ_PERFECT_SNGL_MDL_LILA_COLLAGE_F600_RGB.tif (521 ppi, RGB); Perfect_EPS_ASIAM.eps; Perfect_EPS_EAU.eps; PERFECT_MJ_PMS_July2019_LOGO.eps NEWS FEED 4 SEPTEMBER 4, 2020 -EXCLUSIVE- Lauder is looking to Simon to help reverse that trajectory. “We didn’t buy Too Faced to be a niche brand,” said Tara Simon Headed to Too Faced Demsey. “Granted, it’s been faced by The retail veteran has been named senior vice president and global general the same challenges as everyone else, but we believe it has an extraordinary manager of the makeup brand. BY JENNY B. FINE opportunity. It lives well in the world TARA SIMON HAS been named of selling, we thought this was an of digital and influence, and has the senior vice president and global extraordinary opportunity.” ability to move and inspire a younger general manager of Too Faced, Simon has also worked closely with generation.” effective Aug. 31. brand founders Jerrod Blandino and Demsey said Simon’s top Simon is a retail veteran who was Jeremy Johnson, and her outgoing priorities will be establishing a most recently senior vice president personality aligns well with the platform for growth in the U.S. and of merchandising at Ulta Beauty, brand’s ethos. internationally, doubling down where she is credited with “We’ve loved working with her on attracting new customers and establishing the retailer as a in retailer market meetings over identifying white space that makes player in the prestige sector. the years and truly appreciate her sense for the brand. She left that role in November. enthusiasm and support throughout That could include hybrid products At Too Faced, she will report to our relationship,” said Blandino. “She that capitalize on the “skin-ifcation” John Demsey, executive group always had a uniquely Too Faced spark of makeup, rather than completely president of parent company and great perspective and outlook on separate treatment products as Too The Estée Lauder Cos. Inc., the brand and the business.” Faced launched last year. and succeeds Eric Hohl, who Lauder acquired Too Faced for $1.4 “Having a merchant as the head is leaving the brand. billion in 2016, its largest acquisition of the brand, shaping the innovation “Tara is a brand-builder,” to date. The brand was one of the and the levers of brand development said Demsey, who noted buzziest players in what was a and helping Jerrod and Jeremy he met Simon more boom time for makeup. Since, then, channel their creativity and leverage than two decades ago though, the category has declined the Estée Lauder strengths will be when she was a buyer dramatically, particularly in the hugely helpful,” said Demsey, who at Foley’s in Houston. U.S., a situation exacerbated by the added that it’s also good for overall “She is inspirational, coronavirus pandemic. category growth. tough-minded and While Too Faced ranked number “Our industry needs a few things she is Texan-bold.