Varsity Outdoor Club Journal

Varsity1999 ClubJournal Outdoor Varsity1999 ClubJournal Outdoor Varsity1999 ClubJournal Outdoor Varsity1999 ClubJournal Outdoor Varsity Outdoor Club Journal

1999 –

2000

– – – –

2000 2000 2000 2000

The The VARSITY OUTDOOR CLUB VARSITY OUTDOOR CLUB JOURNAL JOURNAL

Volume XLII Volume XLII 1999 – 2000 1999 – 2000

ISSN 0524-5613 ISSN 0524-5613

The University of British Columbia The University of British Columbia Vancouver, B.C., Canada Vancouver, B.C., Canada

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Table of Contents Table of Contents

President’s Message ...... 5 President’s Message ...... 5 Vice President’s Social Report ...... 6 Vice President’s Social Report ...... 6 VOC Executive 1999-2000 ...... 8 VOC Executive 1999-2000 ...... 8 Editor’s Message ...... 9 Editor’s Message ...... 9

CLIMBING ...... 11 CLIMBING ...... 11

A Mid Autumn’s Night Climb ...... 13 A Mid Autumn’s Night Climb ...... 13 Skaha ...... 19 Skaha ...... 19 Schooled on University Wall ...... 22 Schooled on University Wall ...... 22 Smith Rocks ...... 27 Smith Rocks ...... 27 Hot and Cold Times in Cedarberg ...... 31 Hot and Cold Times in Cedarberg ...... 31 Report from the South East ...... 41 Report from the South East ...... 41 Red Rocks 1999-2000 ...... 46 Red Rocks 1999-2000 ...... 46 Synchroslurpee ...... 54 Synchroslurpee ...... 54 Victims of the African Sun ...... 59 Victims of the African Sun ...... 59 The Irony of Ice ...... 63 The Irony of Ice ...... 63

SKIING ...... 71 SKIING ...... 71

Misty Icefields Traverse in Winter ...... 73 Misty Icefields Traverse in Winter ...... 73 Connecting the Dots – The Spearheads ...... 77 Connecting the Dots – The Spearheads ...... 77 Snogasm ...... 82 Snogasm ...... 82 Club Ski Trips ...... 84 Club Ski Trips ...... 84 Upside Down Weather ...... 86 Upside Down Weather ...... 86 Brew Hut ...... 88 Brew Hut ...... 88 Cayoosh ...... 90 Cayoosh ...... 90

MOUNTAINEERING...... 93 MOUNTAINEERING...... 93

Odin’s Ice ...... 95 Odin’s Ice ...... 95 Redefining a Day Trip ...... 98 Redefining a Day Trip ...... 98

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 3 3 Mountaineering 101 ...... 103 Mountaineering 101 ...... 103 Neophyte Mountaineers ...... 115 Neophyte Mountaineers ...... 115 An Attempt on Mt. Rexford ...... 125 An Attempt on Mt. Rexford ...... 125 Sentenced by the Judge ...... 130 Sentenced by the Judge ...... 130 Tantalus Traverse ...... 139 Tantalus Traverse ...... 139 Crevasse Ball Room ...... 145 Crevasse Ball Room ...... 145

HIKING ...... 167 HIKING ...... 167

Winter Longhike ...... 169 Winter Longhike ...... 169 Black Tusk ...... 171 Black Tusk ...... 171 Spruce Lake ...... 172 Spruce Lake ...... 172 Thanksgiving PSA ...... 175 Thanksgiving PSA ...... 175 Wedgemount Lake ...... 178 Wedgemount Lake ...... 178

FEATURES ...... 179 FEATURES ...... 179

Remembering David ...... 181 Remembering David ...... 181 Brew Hut Chronology...... 185 Brew Hut Chronology...... 185 Lost & Found ...... 189 Lost & Found ...... 189 Gold Pin Award ...... 190 Gold Pin Award ...... 190 Tripping ...... 193 Tripping ...... 193 Overview of the Year ...... 195 Overview of the Year ...... 195 Thoughts on Heating ...... 197 Thoughts on Heating ...... 197

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President's Message President's Message Dave Dexter Dave Dexter

I have to start by apologising for my lack of involvement I have to start by apologising for my lack of involvement during the year. You can rest assured I miss none of the irony during the year. You can rest assured I miss none of the irony presented by the President of the Varsity Outdoor Club spending presented by the President of the Varsity Outdoor Club spending no time in the outdoors. The year is coming to a close and the no time in the outdoors. The year is coming to a close and the only trip I shared with you was Longhike. After that, and a week- only trip I shared with you was Longhike. After that, and a weekend of carpentry at Phelix Creek, I was left to live vicariously end of carpentry at Phelix Creek, I was left to live vicariously through you, the members, when I heard of the adventures you through you, the members, when I heard of the adventures you had during the year. had during the year.

Longhike in September occurred in the middle of a flurry Longhike in September occurred in the middle of a flurry of activity, in which a fresh new executive scrambled to organise of activity, in which a fresh new executive scrambled to organise Clubs' Days, Glacier School, Longhike, and rescue mission to the Clubs' Days, Glacier School, Longhike, and rescue mission to the Waddington hut. I disappeared down my hole in October, surfac- Waddington hut. I disappeared down my hole in October, surfac- ing to hear accounts of Leavenworth, Skaha, and Smith Rock, the ing to hear accounts of Leavenworth, Skaha, and Smith Rock, the push to take over Cypress on Wednesday nights, and the mount- push to take over Cypress on Wednesday nights, and the mount- ing anticipation for snow. I heard tales of desert rock climbing ing anticipation for snow. I heard tales of desert rock climbing down south and ice climbing to the east when I returned from the down south and ice climbing to the east when I returned from the break between terms. It was hearing from you folks about how break between terms. It was hearing from you folks about how much fun there is to be had out there that kept me going. much fun there is to be had out there that kept me going.

Thanks to a new timetable in January, I could host the Thanks to a new timetable in January, I could host the weekly meetings, and it was great to hear directly from people of weekly meetings, and it was great to hear directly from people of their adventures. I hope you did not tire of the question: "So their adventures. I hope you did not tire of the question: "So what did you do on the weekend?" Of course the topics now what did you do on the weekend?" Of course the topics now were snow, snow, now, ice, ice, ice. Especially encouraging were were snow, snow, now, ice, ice, ice. Especially encouraging were the many times I heard "...for the first time!" It's great to know the many times I heard "...for the first time!" It's great to know that the VOC is still fostering a willingness to try, and a hunger that the VOC is still fostering a willingness to try, and a hunger for adventure in our members as it has for over eighty years. for adventure in our members as it has for over eighty years. Keep up the good work. Keep up the good work.

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Vice President's Social Report Vice President's Social Report Robin McKillop Robin McKillop

Twas the end of a millennium, when I was VP Twas the end of a millennium, when I was VP Nothing was organized, not a single party; Nothing was organized, not a single party; Longhike was coming, but without a place, Longhike was coming, but without a place, I had to act fast, barely a moment of grace. I had to act fast, barely a moment of grace.

The AMS Lodge once was the norm, The AMS Lodge once was the norm, A great place to party in a rainstorm; A great place to party in a rainstorm; But this year was different in Pemberton, But this year was different in Pemberton, Climbing in Squamish, dry in the sun! Climbing in Squamish, dry in the sun!

The first year it's nice, I'm stuck in the kitchen The first year it's nice, I'm stuck in the kitchen But don't get me wrong, I wasn't bitchin' But don't get me wrong, I wasn't bitchin' With the place to ourselves, Jer and I cooked With the place to ourselves, Jer and I cooked A meal for a hundred, least that's how it looked. A meal for a hundred, least that's how it looked.

That evening ‘rocked' in VOC style, That evening ‘rocked' in VOC style, We crawled through mazes, drunk all the while We crawled through mazes, drunk all the while Candy necklaces on and making new friends, Candy necklaces on and making new friends, We sang by the fire until the night's end. We sang by the fire until the night's end.

Along with this party came so many more, Along with this party came so many more, Elissa's for example, girls' dresses to the floor; Elissa's for example, girls' dresses to the floor; Red drinks, black suits, in a house full of laughter, Red drinks, black suits, in a house full of laughter, All awaited their fleece they'd wear no doubt after. All awaited their fleece they'd wear no doubt after.

Potlucks and slide-shows with lots of good food Potlucks and slide-shows with lots of good food Were a nice break from midterms, improving our mood; Were a nice break from midterms, improving our mood; The Climbing Comp. went well; Anne's bash a success, The Climbing Comp. went well; Anne's bash a success, Even with what, I'm sure, was a mess. Even with what, I'm sure, was a mess.

This year's unique with a shift to ‘our tents' This year's unique with a shift to ‘our tents' A logical place to hold social events; A logical place to hold social events; Winter Longhike, Glacier School, learning they may be, Winter Longhike, Glacier School, learning they may be,

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 6 6 But in actual fact, they're outdoor parties! But in actual fact, they're outdoor parties!

In Marriott Basin on January twenty-nine In Marriott Basin on January twenty-nine The slopes saw some tracks, like no other kind; The slopes saw some tracks, like no other kind; 26 VOCers on skis and on boards 26 VOCers on skis and on boards Tracked up the powder in gigantic hordes. Tracked up the powder in gigantic hordes.

To me that's a party for a real outdoor club, To me that's a party for a real outdoor club, More than a late night, spent in a pub; More than a late night, spent in a pub; But hey what's the matter? It's all in good fun, But hey what's the matter? It's all in good fun, Besides in that pub, we'd talk about ‘that run.' Besides in that pub, we'd talk about ‘that run.'

The last thing for me is the year-end banquet, The last thing for me is the year-end banquet, A time to say hi to the people we've met; A time to say hi to the people we've met; Some get big boards and some get rewarded, Some get big boards and some get rewarded, Some will show off the person they've escorted. Some will show off the person they've escorted.

Assuming all goes well and Siwash Rock gets climbed Assuming all goes well and Siwash Rock gets climbed It'll be a great year of really fun times; It'll be a great year of really fun times; From guide book to reality, this club has brought From guide book to reality, this club has brought An outdoor appreciation that cannot be bought. An outdoor appreciation that cannot be bought.

So let's ski that line or hand-jam that crack, So let's ski that line or hand-jam that crack, Live ‘free' in the mountains, to the city turn our back; Live ‘free' in the mountains, to the city turn our back; For the outdoors does call, by day and by night, For the outdoors does call, by day and by night, Let's follow each other and never lose sight.... Let's follow each other and never lose sight....

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VOC Executive 1999-2000 VOC Executive 1999-2000

President Dave Dexter President Dave Dexter

Vice President Robin McKillop Vice President Robin McKillop

Special Projects Marsha Hamilton Special Projects Marsha Hamilton

Secretary Sarah Lilljefjors Secretary Sarah Lilljefjors

FMCBC Rep. Anne Leppert FMCBC Rep. Anne Leppert

Trips Co-ordinator Matt Gunn Trips Co-ordinator Matt Gunn

Quartermasters Jayson Warkentin Quartermasters Jayson Warkentin Roland Burton Roland Burton

Treasurer Mark Grist Treasurer Mark Grist

Membership Chair Elissa Clifford Membership Chair Elissa Clifford

Public Relations Ciro Panessa Public Relations Ciro Panessa

Archivist Caroline Wagner Archivist Caroline Wagner

Climbing Wall Kelly Franz Climbing Wall Kelly Franz

VOCene Editor Jan McPhee VOCene Editor Jan McPhee

Journal Editor Fern Webb Journal Editor Fern Webb

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Editor’s Message Editor’s Message Fern Webb Fern Webb

You pulled it off, just like I knew you would. I never had You pulled it off, just like I knew you would. I never had any doubt that in the end we would all have yet another VOC any doubt that in the end we would all have yet another VOC journal to be proud of. Compared to the fun of actually being ‘out journal to be proud of. Compared to the fun of actually being ‘out there’ writing up trip reports can sometimes seem pretty tedious there’ writing up trip reports can sometimes seem pretty tedious and trivial. Several people have said to me this year ‘I really like and trivial. Several people have said to me this year ‘I really like reading the journal, I just don’t like writing‘, a sentiment I com- reading the journal, I just don’t like writing‘, a sentiment I completely understand. So to all of you who met the challenge of de- pletely understand. So to all of you who met the challenge of describing your experiences on paper for us to enjoy: Thank you. scribing your experiences on paper for us to enjoy: Thank you. The writing was the hard part, my job was pretty easy. The writing was the hard part, my job was pretty easy.

A few people deserve special thanks for their help in put- A few people deserve special thanks for their help in putting together this journal: Jeffrey Martin for a late night doing lay- ting together this journal: Jeffrey Martin for a late night doing lay- out. Heather for her amazing efforts to collect advertising (you out. Heather for her amazing efforts to collect advertising (you may notice there aren’t actually any ads – completely my fault, not may notice there aren’t actually any ads – completely my fault, not hers). Anton Pitts, Jeremy Frimer, Kelly Franz and Conor Rey- hers). Anton Pitts, Jeremy Frimer, Kelly Franz and Conor Rey- nolds scanned photos. I also have to thank Jan McPhee for doing nolds scanned photos. I also have to thank Jan McPhee for doing a great job on the VOCene this year. The transition to a mainly e- a great job on the VOCene this year. The transition to a mainly e- mail based newsletter resulted in more people writing mini trip mail based newsletter resulted in more people writing mini trip reports from week to week, many of which I have reprinted here. reports from week to week, many of which I have reprinted here.

And finally I want to thank all the people I did trips with And finally I want to thank all the people I did trips with this past year. I don’t know about the rest of you, but for me this this past year. I don’t know about the rest of you, but for me this year has been one of the best ever, and I hope that in the future I year has been one of the best ever, and I hope that in the future I can look back on it as one of the worst. can look back on it as one of the worst.

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99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 10 10 CLIMBING CLIMBING

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David Chandler on Diedre David Chandler on Diedre Photo: Owen Driscoll Photo: Owen Driscoll

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A Mid-Autumn’s Night Climb A Mid-Autumn’s Night Climb Jeremy Frimer Jeremy Frimer

A man of the mountains am I. A man of the mountains am I. No pain in the world makes me cry. No pain in the world makes me cry. But if you hand me the rack But if you hand me the rack And say “Climb up that crack!” And say “Climb up that crack!” I’ll long for my bottle of Rye. I’ll long for my bottle of Rye.

Scene I: Scene I: The curtain rises and we are in the small Bavarian town of Leavenworth. The curtain rises and we are in the small Bavarian town of Leavenworth. Enter Marticus the Eager and Jeremeous the Brave, stage right. Enter Marticus the Eager and Jeremeous the Brave, stage right.

Marticus: Jeremeous. the Brave. The time doth near for our jour- Marticus: Jeremeous. the Brave. The time doth near for our journey into Outer Space. Pitches number one to six, the crux of the ney into Outer Space. Pitch number one to six, the crux of the class five and nine! class five and nine! Jeremeous: Aye. Marticus. the Eager. Truth indeed speaketh ye. Jeremeous: Aye. Marticus. the Eager. Truth indeed speaketh ye. On the wall of the Snow Creek shall we find the path to Outer On the wall of the Snow Creek shall we find the path to Outer Space, through and through. Space, through and through. Marticus: When the rooster doth crow, the time it shall be to Marticus: When the rooster doth crow, the time it shall be to march upon the creek which is Snow. Alas, two fair damsels march upon the creek which is Snow. Alas, two fair damsels needeth we. For the days are cold and the nights are long. And needeth we. For the days are cold and the nights are long. And what fun is bivying all alone? what fun is bivying all alone?

Enter Janicus the Fair and Tereseus the Happy, stage left. Enter Janicus the Fair and Tereseus the Happy, stage left.

Janicus: Of what mountainous nonsense heareth I? Janicus: Of what mountainous nonsense heareth I? Tereseus: What coldness and suffering suggesteth these dirty Tereseus: What coldness and suffering suggesteth these dirty peasants now? peasants now? Marticus: What doth this jabbering all amount to? Notice do I a Marticus: What doth this jabbering all amount to? Notice do I a bead of sweat on thy brow. bead of sweat on thy brow. Janicus: Fine! Fine! In the morn at the hour of five, you cow. Janicus: Fine! Fine! In the morn at the hour of five, you cow.

Scene II: Scene II: This scene begins at the edge of the wilderness with our four heroes along with This scene begins at the edge of the wilderness with our four heroes along with Fred the Fearless. Fred the Fearless.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 13 13 Fred: Aye! Aye! Fred the Fearless am I. Welcome are you for the Fred: Aye! Aye! Fred the Fearless am I. Welcome are you for the ride at this hour of five. My only request is that you do not die. ride at this hour of five. My only request is that you do not die. Our four heroes: Fair thee well Fred the Fearless. May the sum- Our four heroes: Fair thee well Fred the Fearless. May the summits come to you! mits come to you!

Our four heroes exit stage right on the path which shall lead them to the Our four heroes exit stage right on the path which shall lead them to the Creek of Snow. Over unspeakable distances they doth travel, o’er rivers and Creek of Snow. Over unspeakable distances they doth travel, o’er rivers and boulders and brush so dense it combs their hair. Two hours pass and they boulders and brush so dense it combs their hair. Two hours pass and they arrive at the edge of Outer Space. arrive at the edge of Outer Space.

Marticus: (drawing the rope from his pack) I hereby decree that on Marticus: (drawing the rope from his pack) I hereby decree that on this day, through Outer Space travel shall we. Observeth doth I this day, through Outer Space travel shall we. Observeth doth I that this pitch shall fall beneath me at a class of five and four. that this pitch shall fall beneath me at a class of five and four. Tereseus: (drawing the rack from her pack) Woa! Marticus the Eager! Tereseus: (drawing the rack from her pack) Woa! Marticus the Eager! Do remember to harness thyself before-hand. Upon slaying the Do remember to harness thyself before-hand. Upon slaying the pitch numbered one, I, Tereseus the Happy, shall face that num- pitch numbered one, I, Tereseus the Happy, shall face that numbered two. Prepared for the feared no-look downclimb am I. bered two. Prepared for the feared no-look downclimb am I. Jeremeous: (whimpering) Around me chivalrous knights of the Jeremeous: (whimpering) Around me chivalrous knights of the mountains doth I see. But what scares me most is that pitch mountains doth I see. But what scares me most is that pitch num- numbered three. Crux! Crux! I prithee, Marticus the Eager, lead bered three. Crux! Crux! I prithee, Marticus the Eager, lead us to us to its top. its top. Marticus: I beg you: Fret not! And please, from your chin, do Marticus: I beg you: Fret not! And please, from your chin, do wipe off that snot. This battle which you call pitch numbered wipe off that snot. This battle which you call pitch numbered three shall also fall far away beneath me. three shall also fall far away beneath me.

And with that, all that was said did happen. We rejoin our characters at the And with that, all that was said did happen. We rejoin our characters at the belay numbered three. belay numbered three.

Janicus: Marticus! Marticus! Bloody hell! Enough did you spill Janicus: Marticus! Marticus! Bloody hell! Enough did you spill on on that pitch to fill a well. that pitch to fill a well. Marticus: Nay! Spilled blood did I? Nay! That blood thou hath Marticus: Nay! Spilled blood did I? Nay! That blood thou hath seen was left there by Grahame the Bleeder seen was left there by Grahame the Bleeder Jeremeous: Enough of your chatter! As we have eaten a volumi- Jeremeous: Enough of your chatter! As we have eaten a volumi- nous lunch, I could not be fatter. But this pitch numbered four is nous lunch, I could not be fatter. But this pitch numbered four is up to the batter. Of the class five and six, this should not require up to the batter. Of the class five and six, this should not require too many tricks. too many tricks.

Exit Jeremeous stage up followed by Janicus. Then Marticus exits stage up Exit Jeremeous stage up followed by Janicus. Then Marticus exits stage up

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 14 14 and climbs up into the throat of the Rope Drag(on). The Rope Dragon pulls and climbs up into the throat of the Rope Drag(on). The Rope Dragon pulls and pulls until Marticus can hold himself no longer. Yelling for help, Marti- and pulls until Marticus can hold himself no longer. Yelling for help, Marti- cus looses grip and sails off into air taking a whipper of the length of three cus looses grip and sails off into air taking a whipper of the length of three grown men. grown men.

Marticus Maines embraces the crux of Outer Space Marticus Maines embraces the crux of Outer Space photo Jeremeus Frimer photo Jeremeus Frimer

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 15 15 We rejoin our heroes some time later at belay numbered five We rejoin our heroes some time later at belay numbered five

Marticus: I do declare! Pitch numbered four was not of class five Marticus: I do declare! Pitch numbered four was not of class five and six. I do say. My oh my. Much more effort was needed to get and six. I do say. My oh my. Much more effort was needed to get by. by. Tereseus: With that I do agree. But the challenge we have come Tereseus: With that I do agree. But the challenge we have come for is upon us. Jeremeous, though hath taken pitch numbered for is upon us. Jeremeous, though hath taken pitch numbered Five. Splitter Crack! Chicken Head! What do I see? Your first gear Five. Splitter Crack! Chicken Head! What do I see? Your first gear whipper, but now I do plea: Why doth thou celebrate? Why feel’st whipper, but now I do plea: Why doth thou celebrate? Why feel’st thou glee? Thou hast fallen free and free. thou glee? Thou hast fallen free and free. Jeremeous: I, Jeremeous the brave, indeed my first gear whipper Jeremeous: I, Jeremeous the brave, indeed my first gear whipper hath taken. I doth cheer as my crummy gear hast held me and yet hath taken. I doth cheer as my crummy gear hast held me and yet another day, from my bed I shall waken. Thank god of heaven I another day, from my bed I shall waken. Thank god of heaven I prithee not to tell that it was only of class five and seven. prithee not to tell that it was only of class five and seven. Janicus: Haste! Haste! Darkness is falling! Marticus, taketh my Janicus: Haste! Haste! Darkness is falling! Marticus, taketh my torch on thine red head and do not wait. Godspeed up the pitch torch on thine red head and do not wait. Godspeed up the pitch numbered Six of the class five and eight. numbered Six of the class five and eight. Marticus: Hark! Indeed I must speed up and into the dark. Marticus: Hark! Indeed I must speed up and into the dark.

Exit Marticus, stage up, up and, up. Exit Marticus, stage up, up and, up.

Jeremeous: (some time later) Marticus hath yelled of being secure. Jeremeous: (some time later) Marticus hath yelled of being secure. Tereseus, I believe the saying goes “Ladies first”, my pure. Tereseus, I believe the saying goes “Ladies first”, my pure. Janicus: The air, it hath a cold bite to-night. Shiver, shiver with Janicus: The air, it hath a cold bite to-night. Shiver, shiver with all my might. Jumping Jehosefat, Jeremeous, together we have but all my might. Jumping Jehosefat, Jeremeous, together we have but one light! one light! Jeremeous: Aye! Our troubles are not only the light. (mope mope) I Jeremeous: Aye! Our troubles are not only the light. (mope mope) I notice Marticus will belay us both on just one rope! notice Marticus will belay us both on just one rope! Janicus: Nay nay! Never fear! Let’s tie in short and get the heck Janicus: Nay nay! Never fear! Let’s tie in short and get the heck out of here. out of here.

Exit Janicus and Jeremeous stage up. Exit Janicus and Jeremeous stage up.

Scene III Scene III We rejoin Jeremeous climbing the final pitch: We rejoin Jeremeous climbing the final pitch:

Jeremeous: Golly jee! Marticus took pitch numbered six in fine Jeremeous: Golly jee! Marticus took pitch numbered six in fine style. It was indeed a challenge for below, the void measures a style. It was indeed a challenge for below, the void measures a

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 16 16 mile. Wait just a while! Outer Space. It is only of six pitches on mile. Wait just a while! Outer Space. It is only of six pitches on the file. Yet I go and go up pitch numbered seven. That author, the file. Yet I go and go up pitch numbered seven. That author, what guile! Alas, the ground becometh less steep and a tree mark- what guile! Alas, the ground becometh less steep and a tree marking the end of our trial. “Off belay! Off belay! I do say! Off belay, ing the end of our trial. “Off belay! Off belay! I do say! Off belay, I say” I say”

Voice from the darkness: Jeremeous! Jeremeous! The voice, I’m Voice from the darkness: Jeremeous! Jeremeous! The voice, certain I absorb it. It is I, Mark the Huscroft topping out on Or- I’m certain I absorb it. It is I, Mark the Huscroft topping out on bit. Orbit.

Jeremeous: Mark! What timing! Please help me, I can’t stop Jeremeous: Mark! What timing! Please help me, I can’t stop rhyming! Aye Janicus and Marticus and Tereseus they come. Hey! rhyming! Aye Janicus and Marticus and Tereseus they come. Hey! That didn’t rhyme… Up up is the thumb! That didn’t rhyme… Up up is the thumb! Janicus: Greetings greetings our dear friends. Before me I doth Janicus: Greetings greetings our dear friends. Before me I doth see Mark the Huscroft and Anya, our teams they shall blend. Let see Mark the Huscroft and Anya, our teams they shall blend. Let us eat and change and begin the descent, avoiding all the dead us eat and change and begin the descent, avoiding all the dead ends. ends. Tereseus: Down a chossy, steep, cliffed-out gully doth the de- Tereseus: Down a chossy, steep, cliffed-out gully doth the descent go. It shall be scary and dirty and dubiously slow. scent go. It shall be scary and dirty and dubiously slow.

Exit our heroes, now numbering six, stage left. Descending scary scree mixed Exit our heroes, now numbering six, stage left. Descending scary scree with cliffs. The time doth pass when a rappel was the only safe means. mixed with cliffs. The time doth pass when a rappel was the only safe means.

Anya: Weary are we from such a long day. Rappelling? Perhaps. Anya: Weary are we from such a long day. Rappelling? Perhaps. But the group is not sway. Re-ascend to the top, we must. And But the group is not sway. Re-ascend to the top, we must. And wait until tomorrow before again we play. wait until tomorrow before again we play. Mark: Agreed. We march up to the top and there, seek we shall, a Mark: Agreed. We march up to the top and there, seek we shall, cave, a shelter… hopefully not occupied by a bear. a cave, a shelter… hopefully not occupied by a bear.

As snow began falling from the autumn’s night sky, our intrepid 6 found a As snow began falling from the autumn’s night sky, our intrepid 6 found a dry but drafty cave up on the mountain quite high. dry but drafty cave up on the mountain quite high.

Tereseus: Hark! In here it shall be cold. We must huddle to- Tereseus: Hark! In here it shall be cold. We must huddle together, drape branches over ourselves, and be voraciously bold. A gether, drape branches over ourselves, and be voraciously bold. long night shall pass before it is all said and told. A long night shall pass before it is all said and told. Janicus: (lying down) Bivy bivy to my soul’s delight! Hey give me Janicus: (lying down) Bivy bivy to my soul’s delight! Hey give me that branch or I’ll pull with my might! that branch or I’ll pull with my might! Marticus: Inquire do I? Doth anyone sleep? Into dreamland doth Marticus: Inquire do I? Doth anyone sleep? Into dreamland

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 17 17 anyone fly? doth anyone fly? Tereseus: Nay. Tereseus: Nay. Janicus: Nay Janicus: Nay Mark: Nay Mark: Nay Anya: Nay Anya: Nay Jeremeous: zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz……….. Jeremeous: zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz……….. Marticus: Lucky bastard is he! Practiced in the unplanned bivy, I Marticus: Lucky bastard is he! Practiced in the unplanned bivy, I see. see.

And so, as slow as can be, the night did indeed pass and stiff as a tree, our And so, as slow as can be, the night did indeed pass and stiff as a tree, our heros emergeth and anxiously begineth from the mountain their flee. heros emergeth and anxiously begineth from the mountain their flee.

Marticus: Goodness and grief! This descent is treacherous. Marticus: Goodness and grief! This descent is treacherous. Janicus: Alas! A figure approacheth. Well I’ll be! Fred the Fear- Janicus: Alas! A figure approacheth. Well I’ll be! Fred the Fear- less cometh to rescue we! less cometh to rescue we! Anya: Fuss! Fuss!! Along cometh others to saveth us: Grahame Anya: Fuss! Fuss!! Along cometh others to saveth us: Grahame the Bleeder, Arlin, Chewy, Lissa, and Frank. Thank you Thank the Bleeder, Arlin, Chewy, Lissa, and Frank. Thank you Thank you. Forever in debt are we. For you we would goeth so far as to you. Forever in debt are we. For you we would goeth so far as to walk the plank. walk the plank. Grahame: Accepted is your thank. So the climb thou didst crank? Grahame: Accepted is your thank. So the climb thou didst Sleeping in a cave, that is no prank…But away away from here for crank? Sleeping in a cave, that is no prank…But away away from now, y’all seriously stank! here for now, y’all seriously stank!

Close curtain. Close curtain.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 18 18

SKAHA SKAHA Kelly Franz Kelly Franz

Present: Present: Many, in 2 groups, those camping at the grasslands and Many, in 2 groups, those camping at the grasslands and those living the life of luxury at Kelly's house in Okanagan Falls. those living the life of luxury at Kelly's house in Okanagan Falls. This report is mainly from those at Kelly's. Sara P, Sarah G, Yana This report is mainly from those at Kelly's. Sara P, Sarah G, Yana P, Anne L, Mark H, Thomas L, Daniel L, Ken G, and of course P, Anne L, Mark H, Thomas L, Daniel L, Ken G, and of course Kelly F all showed up at Kelly's house on Friday night. Ok, Ken, Kelly F all showed up at Kelly's house on Friday night. Ok, Ken, Yana and Sarah showed up at 4AM after the geology beer garden, Yana and Sarah showed up at 4AM after the geology beer garden, but at least they made it. Yana means frog in Spanish (I think). but at least they made it. Yana means frog in Spanish (I think).

The best part about Kelly's house is his mom. She loved The best part about Kelly's house is his mom. She loved the company and despite looking after her granddaughter, she the company and despite looking after her granddaughter, she managed to look after the whole crew camped in the living room. managed to look after the whole crew camped in the living room. This included breakfast two mornings and a huge dinner Saturday This included breakfast two mornings and a huge dinner Saturday night, including ample vegetarian fare, so important to some night, including ample vegetarian fare, so important to some VOC'ers. Also, she managed to entertain us all of her days with VOC'ers. Also, she managed to entertain us all of her days with the Mexican national circus as the woman who never slept. Not the Mexican national circus as the woman who never slept. Not true but she could be the woman who never slept because she did true but she could be the woman who never slept because she did so darn much. Good perogies Thomas? so darn much. Good perogies Thomas?

Climbing: Climbing: Was had by all on Saturday, Red Tail being the place where Was had by all on Saturday, Red Tail being the place where many VOC'ers congregated. Highlights included Assholes of Au- many VOC'ers congregated. Highlights included Assholes of Au- gust and taking falls without dying. Campers went and camped, gust and taking falls without dying. Campers went and camped, others slept in warm heated blissful house, complete with cozy others slept in warm heated blissful house, complete with cozy but very nocturnal kitten, which was fueled in the night by a cat- but very nocturnal kitten, which was fueled in the night by a cat- nip filled mouse and bouts with Mark’s head. nip filled mouse and bouts with Mark’s head.

Sunday morning, those in the house were awakened by the Sunday morning, those in the house were awakened by the niece throwing a stuffed dog on them. More toast of champions niece throwing a stuffed dog on them. More toast of champions a la Mrs. Franz and we were off. Into a storm. Word is many of a la Mrs. Franz and we were off. Into a storm. Word is many of the campers took one look at the storm and high tailed it home to the campers took one look at the storm and high tailed it home to the coast. The house-campers waited stoically in a small dark cof- the coast. The house-campers waited stoically in a small dark coffee shop, and replenished their caffeine and sugar reserves, as the fee shop, and replenished their caffeine and sugar reserves, as the storm passed and the wind dried streets, climbs, and bitter tears storm passed and the wind dried streets, climbs, and bitter tears

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 19 19 of anguish of not knowing if we'd get to climb. of anguish of not knowing if we'd get to climb. Up the stairs we headed, to check out Cave Hill and be- Up the stairs we headed, to check out Cave Hill and be-

Kelly Franz bouldering Kelly Franz bouldering Photo: Sara Price Photo: Sara Price yond. After a viewsome hike, the destination was found, along yond. After a viewsome hike, the destination was found, along with perogies packed into lunches, thanks again Ma Franz. Like with perogies packed into lunches, thanks again Ma Franz. Like perogies Thomas? The caves were spectacular, indeed spook- perogies Thomas? The caves were spectacular, indeed spooktacu- tacular due to bats inside. 2 bats. Ok not that spooky. But any- lar due to bats inside. 2 bats. Ok not that spooky. But anyhow, how, Ken, Daniel and Kelly went through, and then did another Ken, Daniel and Kelly went through, and then did another loop loop with Anne. We thought Anne would die for sure but she with Anne. We thought Anne would die for sure but she man- managed to descend into the cave with barely a hand on the al- aged to descend into the cave with barely a hand on the almost most too short rope. That was spooky. Anyhow, we all managed too short rope. That was spooky. Anyhow, we all managed to to make it through, and even made it out with hardly any claustro- make it through, and even made it out with hardly any claustro- phobic effort. Then we regrouped and decided to head out on the phobic effort. Then we regrouped and decided to head out on the

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 20 20 loop trail through Morning Glory Wall so we'd do a loop. loop trail through Morning Glory Wall so we'd do a loop.

Daniel and Kelly climbed Being There, and Daniel only Daniel and Kelly climbed Being There, and Daniel only stepped on a bolt once. Sure it was accidental. At the same time, stepped on a bolt once. Sure it was accidental. At the same time, Anne neutralized some Black Acid (what a corny phrase but I had Anne neutralized some Black Acid (what a corny phrase but I had to) and Ken had a go on Here Doing This. Good thing Sara P ate to) and Ken had a go on Here Doing This. Good thing Sara P ate her Wheaties ‘cause she caught a falling Ken, who decided to pull her Wheaties ‘cause she caught a falling Ken, who decided to pull out a bunch of rope clipping bolt 3 then not clip and fall almost out a bunch of rope clipping bolt 3 then not clip and fall almost onto Sara. So Ken was out of there, thwarted by the climb. As onto Sara. So Ken was out of there, thwarted by the climb. As Ken wept, Mark H stepped up to the plate. He made it to Ken's Ken wept, Mark H stepped up to the plate. He made it to Ken's jumping off point, but was much too wise to fall prey to this jumping off point, but was much too wise to fall prey to this climb. He went down to weep with Ken. Next Daniel was on climb. He went down to weep with Ken. Next Daniel was on the sharp end. Armed with arms and legs, he made the shitty clip, the sharp end. Armed with arms and legs, he made the shitty clip, only to fall just above it. He was weeping as he fell, and Sara was only to fall just above it. He was weeping as he fell, and Sara was pulleyed up into the air. Like I said, good belayer. pulleyed up into the air. Like I said, good belayer.

As Daniel wept and tried to climb, the dark began ap- As Daniel wept and tried to climb, the dark began ap- proaching, and Daniel could not see through all the tears. Out of proaching, and Daniel could not see through all the tears. Out of nowhere came Thomas, a "beginner". Thomas removed his shirt, nowhere came Thomas, a "beginner". Thomas removed his shirt, and we actually heard the climb cringe. Key holds crumbled, and and we actually heard the climb cringe. Key holds crumbled, and the overhang increased to became positively despicable. A cold the overhang increased to became positively despicable. A cold freezing rain doused the holds and covered everyone with icicles. freezing rain doused the holds and covered everyone with icicles. Thomas began to climb, unburdened by any gear, or for that mat- Thomas began to climb, unburdened by any gear, or for that matter clothing. ter clothing.

With style and grace he melted holds into the rock with With style and grace he melted holds into the rock with fists of fire, and ascended the climb to the falling off point of so fists of fire, and ascended the climb to the falling off point of so many others. Here he removed the rope and gear from the frozen many others. Here he removed the rope and gear from the frozen cliff, and tossed it to the weeping children below. Upward. To cliff, and tossed it to the weeping children below. Upward. To the top of the cliff he climbed, burning a line into the side of a the top of the cliff he climbed, burning a line into the side of a solid rock for others to follow. A large throaty growl was heard solid rock for others to follow. A large throaty growl was heard when he summited, and it melted the ice, and dried the rain, and when he summited, and it melted the ice, and dried the rain, and then with one mighty step he was down, and it was over. The then with one mighty step he was down, and it was over. The walk out in the dark was silent but for the weeping and the occa- walk out in the dark was silent but for the weeping and the occasional growl of Thomas the Conqueror, Protector of the Weak sional growl of Thomas the Conqueror, Protector of the Weak and Mortal. and Mortal.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 21 21

Schooled on University Wall Schooled on University Wall Jeffrey Martin Jeffrey Martin

Author's note: Author's note: This is a letter I sent to my folks and a few friends who were interested in This is a letter I sent to my folks and a few friends who were interested in what I'd been up to. I think my friends got a good laugh out of it but my what I'd been up to. I think my friends got a good laugh out of it but my parents were a little distressed. parents were a little distressed.

Hi guys. Bit of a story to tell. Hi guys. Bit of a story to tell.

My plans to climb Mt. Baker last weekend fell through at My plans to climb Mt. Baker last weekend fell through at about 9:30PM on Friday night when one of the guys got called about 9:30PM on Friday night when one of the guys got called out to work in Prince George. I decided to try to solo-aid Univer- out to work in Prince George. I decided to try to solo-aid Univer- sity Wall on the Chief in Squamish. I really hadn't done all that sity Wall on the Chief in Squamish. I really hadn't done all that much aid climbing and I'd certainly never soloed anything, but I much aid climbing and I'd certainly never soloed anything, but I figured this is the kind of challenge adventures are made of. I got figured this is the kind of challenge adventures are made of. I got on the phone to borrow some gear and started pulling my stuff on the phone to borrow some gear and started pulling my stuff together. I had everything ready by 1:00AM but was so excited I together. I had everything ready by 1:00AM but was so excited I could barely get to sleep. could barely get to sleep.

I rolled out of bed at four thirty, ate some breakfast and hit I rolled out of bed at four thirty, ate some breakfast and hit the road. After a quick stop at Greg's to borrow some more stuff the road. After a quick stop at Greg's to borrow some more stuff I rolled through town and up the Sea to Ski Highway. At six I rolled through town and up the Sea to Ski Highway. At six thirty or so I shouldered my gear in the parking lot and started thirty or so I shouldered my gear in the parking lot and started humping up the trail to the base. I had to shuttle loads up the last humping up the trail to the base. I had to shuttle loads up the last steep section and then had to wait for two guys to rappel off the steep section and then had to wait for two guys to rappel off the route, so I didn't start climbing until eight thirty or so. route, so I didn't start climbing until eight thirty or so.

Climbing on the lower sections is mostly straight foreword. Climbing on the lower sections is mostly straight foreword. The gear is all easy to place and have confidence in, but because The gear is all easy to place and have confidence in, but because of the shape and the overhang of the route it can be awkward and of the shape and the overhang of the route it can be awkward and strenuous to place. I made slow progress, and soon started to feel strenuous to place. I made slow progress, and soon started to feel the effects of two nights in a row with minimal sleep. I felt I was the effects of two nights in a row with minimal sleep. I felt I was working a little harder than I should be, but couldn't figure out working a little harder than I should be, but couldn't figure out what to do differently so I just stuck with it. The first pitch went what to do differently so I just stuck with it. The first pitch went off without a hitch. I fixed my ropes at the top and rappelled off without a hitch. I fixed my ropes at the top and rappelled

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 22 22 down to bring up the rear. down to bring up the rear.

The nice thing about solo aid climbing, as I see it, is that The nice thing about solo aid climbing, as I see it, is that you get to do all the climbing and don't ever have to sit around you get to do all the climbing and don't ever have to sit around belaying your partner. The trouble is that you have to do all the belaying your partner. The trouble is that you have to do all the climbing with no time to rest and that’s a ton of work. When you climbing with no time to rest and that’s a ton of work. When you finish leading a pitch you have to rappel down to the base and finish leading a pitch you have to rappel down to the base and then climb back up the rope retrieving your gear. When you get then climb back up the rope retrieving your gear. When you get back to the top you haul up your bag of food and overnight gear back to the top you haul up your bag of food and overnight gear and then start over again. It’s slow, strenuous business. and then start over again. It’s slow, strenuous business.

It was probably about noon when I was ready to start the It was probably about noon when I was ready to start the second pitch. I ate a bit, had a drink of water and realised that I second pitch. I ate a bit, had a drink of water and realised that I was actually very thirsty, probably dehydrated. I started drinking a was actually very thirsty, probably dehydrated. I started drinking a lot. lot.

The second pitch follows a stunning, double overhanging The second pitch follows a stunning, double overhanging corner with a thin crack in the back. There is absolutely nothing corner with a thin crack in the back. There is absolutely nothing below you for a long way down. Its really spectacular exposure. below you for a long way down. Its really spectacular exposure. However, all the climbing happens in the crack at the back of the However, all the climbing happens in the crack at the back of the corner which is so narrow and overhanging it actually feels corner which is so narrow and overhanging it actually feels cramped trying to move around. Hanging off a piece of protec- cramped trying to move around. Hanging off a piece of protection there's not even enough knee room to bring your feet up in tion there's not even enough knee room to bring your feet up in your aiders (thin webbing ladders used in aid climbing). Upward your aiders (thin webbing ladders used in aid climbing). Upward progress involves a lot of awkward pulling, leaning back and progress involves a lot of awkward pulling, leaning back and scraping of knees. scraping of knees.

Half way up the pitch I started to get muscle cramps. I'd Half way up the pitch I started to get muscle cramps. I'd try to lift a foot up and my stomach would cramp up, so I'd have try to lift a foot up and my stomach would cramp up, so I'd have to lean back to stretch it out. I'd try to manipulate some equip- to lean back to stretch it out. I'd try to manipulate some equipment and my hands would cramp up. I remember having to pry ment and my hands would cramp up. I remember having to pry my fingers against the wall or grab my thumbs in my mouth to my fingers against the wall or grab my thumbs in my mouth to straighten them out. This was more of an inconvenience than straighten them out. This was more of an inconvenience than anything. It was frustrating having to stop every couple of min- anything. It was frustrating having to stop every couple of minutes and let muscles relax. I'd climbed these lower sections with utes and let muscles relax. I'd climbed these lower sections with my friend Fern a few weeks before and hadn't found it so strenu- my friend Fern a few weeks before and hadn't found it so strenuous, so I guess I must have been rather dehydrated. I started ous, so I guess I must have been rather dehydrated. I started drinking more. drinking more.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 23 23

Near the top of the second pitch the pickings get pretty Near the top of the second pitch the pickings get pretty slim. The crack thins out and then disappears, so placing gear slim. The crack thins out and then disappears, so placing gear gets tough. I found this to be the trickiest section when I climbed gets tough. I found this to be the trickiest section when I climbed it with Fern, but I'd found my way through without incident. it with Fern, but I'd found my way through without incident. This time I couldn't find anything solid. I placed a hook on a thin This time I couldn't find anything solid. I placed a hook on a thin ledge and gained a few feet. Then I dug some lichen out of a tiny ledge and gained a few feet. Then I dug some lichen out of a tiny crack and placed the thinnest stopper you can buy in a tiny con- crack and placed the thinnest stopper you can buy in a tiny constriction. I tested it and it seemed to hold bodyweight but when I striction. I tested it and it seemed to hold bodyweight but when I got on it and started moving up in my aiders it popped. got on it and started moving up in my aiders it popped.

I was surprised to be suddenly airborne, but even more of a I was surprised to be suddenly airborne, but even more of a surprise was how long it took me to stop. When the stopper blew surprise was how long it took me to stop. When the stopper blew I was a fair distance above my last good piece (hooks don't catch I was a fair distance above my last good piece (hooks don't catch falls) but the real culprit was the slack in my self belay system. It falls) but the real culprit was the slack in my self belay system. It took much longer than expected for the rope to come tight. I took much longer than expected for the rope to come tight. I probably fell twenty-five or thirty feet and passes six or seven probably fell twenty-five or thirty feet and passes six or seven placements on the way down. That was ok because the route is so placements on the way down. That was ok because the route is so steep that there's nothing to hit, but wow, what a ride. Two of steep that there's nothing to hit, but wow, what a ride. Two of Greg's buddies were putting up a new route below me and we had Greg's buddies were putting up a new route below me and we had been chatting earlier. They started cheering and hollering: "Yip been chatting earlier. They started cheering and hollering: "Yip YipYipYip YAHOO! Good work buddy, that's what it’s all YipYipYip YAHOO! Good work buddy, that's what it’s all about. ... Oh, are you ok?" It was rather funny. I wasn't hurt, just about. ... Oh, are you ok?" It was rather funny. I wasn't hurt, just annoyed that I had to climb back up there. annoyed that I had to climb back up there.

I made my way back onto my hook at my high point and I made my way back onto my hook at my high point and started digging around. Somehow it didn't strike me as odd that started digging around. Somehow it didn't strike me as odd that the rest of the route was well travelled and clean but this section the rest of the route was well travelled and clean but this section was all gritty and covered with lichen. I dug out a slightly better was all gritty and covered with lichen. I dug out a slightly better placement, tested it and started climbing. It held my weight no placement, tested it and started climbing. It held my weight no problem but to get high enough to make the next move I had to problem but to get high enough to make the next move I had to lean back slightly. This changed the direction of load on the lean back slightly. This changed the direction of load on the piece, it popped, and I was back in the air. I remember cursing piece, it popped, and I was back in the air. I remember cursing just as it let go. It wasn't an "Oh my god this is scary" type curse, just as it let go. It wasn't an "Oh my god this is scary" type curse, but a frustrated "not again" curse. Twenty-odd feet lost again. but a frustrated "not again" curse. Twenty-odd feet lost again.

On my way back up the third time I looked back over my On my way back up the third time I looked back over my shoulder and saw an excellent secondary crack and a belay anchor. shoulder and saw an excellent secondary crack and a belay anchor.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 24 24 Those two falls and the extra work involved had been totally un- Those two falls and the extra work involved had been totally unnecessary. I was off route without even knowing about it. I made necessary. I was off route without even knowing about it. I made my way to this anchor and wrapped up the pitch. my way to this anchor and wrapped up the pitch.

The third pitch took a long time. There's a horizontal trav- The third pitch took a long time. There's a horizontal traverse and a small roof involved and they're particularly hard to erse and a small roof involved and they're particularly hard to clean (remove gear on the way up the second time). I finished the clean (remove gear on the way up the second time). I finished the third pitch and had all my stuff at the top sometime after third pitch and had all my stuff at the top sometime after 11:00PM. I was pooped but didn't have to go any further. A nice 11:00PM. I was pooped but didn't have to go any further. A nice old tree sticks out of the cliff up there. I was planning to sleep in old tree sticks out of the cliff up there. I was planning to sleep in it. it.

The tree grows straight out of the cliff and is horizontal for The tree grows straight out of the cliff and is horizontal for about a foot, and then it bends straight up. The bend makes a bit about a foot, and then it bends straight up. The bend makes a bit of a saddle where one can sit comfortably. I sat there and ate of a saddle where one can sit comfortably. I sat there and ate some canned beans for dinner, then put on some warm clothing some canned beans for dinner, then put on some warm clothing and leaned up against the tree for the night. and leaned up against the tree for the night.

As you can probably imagine, sitting in a tree is no place to As you can probably imagine, sitting in a tree is no place to get a good night’s sleep. It was a clear night and, with nothing get a good night’s sleep. It was a clear night and, with nothing below me for a couple hundred meters’ the view was spectacular. below me for a couple hundred meters’ the view was spectacular. I sat and looked at the city lights and dozed off now and then, but I sat and looked at the city lights and dozed off now and then, but didn't really sleep much. At three or four in the morning the wind didn't really sleep much. At three or four in the morning the wind came up and I started shivering, so I dug out my sleeping bag and came up and I started shivering, so I dug out my sleeping bag and wrapped it around me like a blanket. I then tried turning around wrapped it around me like a blanket. I then tried turning around and facing into the cliff. This spoiled the view but made things a and facing into the cliff. This spoiled the view but made things a little more comfortable. I slept soundly until six in the morning. little more comfortable. I slept soundly until six in the morning.

When I woke up I ate some breakfast and took stock of When I woke up I ate some breakfast and took stock of things. I had climbed three pitches; there were four more and a things. I had climbed three pitches; there were four more and a tricky descent left. I had drank five and a half litres of water, tricky descent left. I had drank five and a half litres of water, there was one and a half litres left. I was tired, not as tired as there was one and a half litres left. I was tired, not as tired as when I stopped the night before, but tired none the less. I de- when I stopped the night before, but tired none the less. I decided I'd just get myself into trouble by pressing on and racing cided I'd just get myself into trouble by pressing on and racing against the end of a second day, so I packed up my stuff and rap- against the end of a second day, so I packed up my stuff and rappelled to the ground. pelled to the ground.

I guess it’s too bad I had to bail out but I'd certainly had I guess it’s too bad I had to bail out but I'd certainly had

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 25 25 the fun I was looking for. Sunday afternoon I sat in the sun and the fun I was looking for. Sunday afternoon I sat in the sun and read the first half of an instructional book on aid climbing. I was read the first half of an instructional book on aid climbing. I was so stiff it was hard to get out of the deck chair. so stiff it was hard to get out of the deck chair.

Take care, Take care, Jeff Jeff

Jeff and Jay on Uncle Ben’s later that summer. Jeff and Jay on Uncle Ben’s later that summer. It really was this steep, I swear. It really was this steep, I swear. Photo Jeffrey Martin

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 26 26

SMITH ROCKS-I SMITH ROCKS-I Drew Brayshaw Drew Brayshaw

Smith kicked ass - warm & sunny. Lots of people climbed Smith kicked ass- warm & sunny. Lots of people climbed the Pioneer route on Monkey Face and many other classic routes. the Pioneer route on Monkey Face and many other classic routes. No epics, except for Fred T.having to lead a 5.7 on gear (his hard- No epics, except for Fred T.having to lead a 5.7 on gear (his hardest gear lead ever) and Grahame Q's car breaking down 60 miles est gear lead ever) and Grahame Q's car breaking down 60 miles south of the border. It was determined that Australians do not south of the border. It was determined that Australians do not actually call a pot gripper a "spondonicle". actually call a pot gripper a "spondonicle".

Drew would like to apologize to all those people who he Drew would like to apologize to all those people who he lied to during the campfire climbing trivia game when he insisted lied to during the campfire climbing trivia game when he insisted 'The Frizmo' was a named hold on 'Toxic'- it's on 'Bongo Fury' 'The Frizmo' was a named hold on 'Toxic'- it's on 'Bongo Fury' actually. Sorry Luke (as if anyone else would notice)! actually. Sorry Luke (as if anyone else would notice)!

SMITH ROCKS-II SMITH ROCKS-II Kelly Franz Kelly Franz

Swiss Karma was not on this trip. Daniel, Thomas, Annel- Swiss Karma was not on this trip. Daniel, Thomas, Annel- ise, Elie, Drew, Fred, Jay, Jeff, Matt, Mike, Yana, Sarah, Vlad, ise, Elie, Drew, Fred, Jay, Jeff, Matt, Mike, Yana, Sarah, Vlad, Luke, Anya, Mark, Marsha, Jeremy, Stephanie, Bec, Dora, Elise, Luke, Anya, Mark, Marsha, Jeremy, Stephanie, Bec, Dora, Elise, Jean, the Dallas Cowboy Cheerleaders, Clint, Hobie, Matt, Gra- Jean, the Dallas Cowboy Cheerleaders, Clint, Hobie, Matt, Gra- hame, Conor, Joe, Jonas, Kelly, Arlin, and a bunch more people hame, Conor, Joe, Jonas, Kelly, Arlin, and a bunch more people (but I don't know their names), were. (but I don't know their names), were.

Smith Rock State Park. The weather was unseasonably Smith Rock State Park. The weather was unseasonably warm for the most part, the days were short, yet full of climbing. warm for the most part, the days were short, yet full of climbing. The food was deep fried mixed with cheap junk, for some, The food was deep fried mixed with cheap junk, for some, washed down with cheap (to free) beer. There were no perogies washed down with cheap (to free) beer. There were no perogies on this trip, although a few chalupas were dropped. This is Kelly's on this trip, although a few chalupas were dropped. This is Kelly's account of the trip. account of the trip.

Wednesday is wedding day: November 10th. Leave Van- Wednesday is wedding day: November 10th. Leave Van- couver, drive about 9 or 10 hours, get lost only once, arrive at couver, drive about 9 or 10 hours, get lost only once, arrive at skull hollow 2am. 39 cent burritos and 49 cent cheeseburgers fuel skull hollow 2am. 39 cent burritos and 49 cent cheeseburgers fuel the crowd. the crowd.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 27 27 Thursday is a day: November 11. Up not too early, climb- Thursday is a day: November 11. Up not too early, climbing, climbing, climbing. Luke has a route for me; he says I'll do it ing, climbing, climbing. Luke has a route for me; he says I'll do it no problem. He does it first then I fall many times. So we try no problem. He does it first then I fall many times. So we try some other rOOts, not rAUts, and manage to have fun. That eve- some other rOOts, not rAUts, and manage to have fun. That evening discover swiss rolls, nutty bars, zebra cakes etc only 25 cents. ning discover swiss rolls, nutty bars, zebra cakes etc only 25 cents. That's dinner, along with a few deep fried breaded chicken strips. That's dinner, along with a few deep fried breaded chicken strips. Arlin develops a liking for poppers, deep fries jalepenos stuffed Arlin develops a liking for poppers, deep fries jalepenos stuffed with cream cheese. Also that day, Luke meets Steph Davis and with cream cheese. Also that day, Luke meets Steph Davis and thinks she will go on top. He is still mad at Anya cause she thinks she will go on top. He is still mad at Anya cause she wouldn't go on top that morning. wouldn't go on top that morning.

Mark Huscroft at Smith Rocks. Mark Huscroft at Smith Rocks. Photo Kelly Franx Photo Kelly Franx

Friday is funday: November 12. Arlin and I get up around Friday is funday: November 12. Arlin and I get up around 8 or so and head over to Monkey Face. Those who awoke hours 8 or so and head over to Monkey Face. Those who awoke hours earlier were barely started and so Arlin and I manage to get in line earlier were barely started and so Arlin and I manage to get in line for the Pioneer Route. The aid pitch, a lovely ladder of bolts, is a for the Pioneer Route. The aid pitch, a lovely ladder of bolts, is a first for both Arlin "I live for raw finger tips on hard rock and first for both Arlin "I live for raw finger tips on hard rock and mixed ice" Kalinchuk and Kelly "I live for anything but aid climb- mixed ice" Kalinchuk and Kelly "I live for anything but aid climbing" Franz. By the end of the pitch there are plans for big walls in ing" Franz. By the end of the pitch there are plans for big walls in Arghbekkischtan, spending months on a portaledge, filtering urine Arghbekkischtan, spending months on a portaledge, filtering urine

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 28 28 to redrink in effort to save water. These plans are quickly dis- to redrink in effort to save water. These plans are quickly dis- solved when some psychotic (do they come any other way?) big solved when some psychotic (do they come any other way?) big wall climber does the pitch that took Arlin and I around 1 hour in wall climber does the pitch that took Arlin and I around 1 hour in 4 minutes. Oh well, I'm content with pulling on the odd draw 4 minutes. Oh well, I'm content with pulling on the odd draw now and again. Except for Matt Gunn's attempt at base jumping now and again. Except for Matt Gunn's attempt at base jumping off the head of the monkey, the rest went well. That evening, off the head of the monkey, the rest went well. That evening, Bend was checked out, without much excitement. Bob’s Burgers Bend was checked out, without much excitement. Bob’s Burgers in Redmond was alright, however, had we the patience we would in Redmond was alright, however, had we the patience we would have seen Big O's diner around the next bend and had a much have seen Big O's diner around the next bend and had a much better time. We're sure of it. With a name like Big O's, how could better time. We're sure of it. With a name like Big O's, how could you not have a good time? Note: 79 cents for 1.89 litres of apple you not have a good time? Note: 79 cents for 1.89 litres of apple juice is a good deal, but if you drink it all in like 9 hours, it gives juice is a good deal, but if you drink it all in like 9 hours, it gives the bowels a run for their money. the bowels a run for their money.

Saturday is Stupid: November 13. That stupid goddamn Saturday is Stupid: November 13. That stupid goddamn route that Luke pointed out to me is so %$@$'ing hard, I don't route that Luke pointed out to me is so %$@$'ing hard, I don't think I’ll ever do it aaaaaaaarrrrgggggghh. I'm beginning to get a think I’ll ever do it aaaaaaaarrrrgggggghh. I'm beginning to get a sport climber's mentality, I think. Stupid route anyhow. What a sport climber's mentality, I think. Stupid route anyhow. What a dumb place to climb. Who the halrkjaq wirh'oa''iad:aaaaaahhhh!! dumb place to climb. Who the halrkjaq wirh'oa''iad:aaaaaahhhh!! Anyhow dinner that night was good, consisting of more 25 cent Anyhow dinner that night was good, consisting of more 25 cent treats, deep fried pork nugget type thingies with sweet and sour treats, deep fried pork nugget type thingies with sweet and sour sauce, three chocolate bars and 2 out of 3 for a dollar pies, berry sauce, three chocolate bars and 2 out of 3 for a dollar pies, berry pies are soooo awesome. Also in the morning, Arlin had a whip- pies are soooo awesome. Also in the morning, Arlin had a whip- ping good time on BBQ the Pope, while Anya had no problems ping good time on BBQ the Pope, while Anya had no problems with Vomit Launch. with Vomit Launch.

Sunday is a Lovely Day: November 14. Oh, what a lovely Sunday is a Lovely Day: November 14. Oh, what a lovely route. And really it wasn't that hard. Oh gee, I wish I tried it one route. And really it wasn't that hard. Oh gee, I wish I tried it one more time yesterday, I feel so at peace with my inner sport more time yesterday, I feel so at peace with my inner sport climber. Ommmm. Finally got that route. So, now I can have climber. Ommmm. Finally got that route. So, now I can have some fun. Mark and I and others do some routes until it's time to some fun. Mark and I and others do some routes until it's time to go home. Long drive but who cares, I had fun. Food on the way go home. Long drive but who cares, I had fun. Food on the way home consisted of an ice cream bar, 3 chalupas at taco bell, home consisted of an ice cream bar, 3 chalupas at taco bell, 250mL skim milk (you don't want to get FAT do you??), a berry 250mL skim milk (you don't want to get FAT do you??), a berry pie and a cherry pie too. Mmmm mmm good! Plus a few cookies pie and a cherry pie too. Mmmm mmm good! Plus a few cookies

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 29 29 at a rest stop. And some juice and candy. at a rest stop. And some juice and candy.

SMITH ROCKS-III SMITH ROCKS-III Grahame Q Grahame Q

Matt G., Jeremy, Alex and Grahame had a bit of an epic Matt G., Jeremy, Alex and Grahame had a bit of an epic driving back to Vancouver from Smith. Grahame's car broke driving back to Vancouver from Smith. Grahame's car broke down and they had to be towed from about 60 miles south of the down and they had to be towed from about 60 miles south of the border all the way back to Vancouver. Thank god for Matt's border all the way back to Vancouver. Thank god for Matt's BCAA card. BCAA card.

Holy Smokes is Anya a Good Climber! Holy Smokes is Anya a Good Climber! Photo Kelly Franz Photo Kelly Franz

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Hot and Cold Times in the Cederberg Hot and Cold Times in the Cederberg Dan Perrakis Dan Perrakis

It's hot in Africa, at least in summer. I was reminded of this It's hot in Africa, at least in summer. I was reminded of this fact on several occasions during my visit to the continent this past fact on several occasions during my visit to the continent this past year. On one blistering day in January, Jen Wild and I made our year. On one blistering day in January, Jen Wild and I made our way up a wandering route on Table Mountain in Cape Town, and way up a wandering route on Table Mountain in Cape Town, and the details of that adventure are probably recorded elsewhere in the details of that adventure are probably recorded elsewhere in this issue. We failed to learn our lesson, however, and soon found this issue. We failed to learn our lesson, however, and soon found ourselves bubbling with sweat once again as we dragged our feet ourselves bubbling with sweat once again as we dragged our feet up another sun-baked adventure. up another sun-baked adventure.

The Cederberg Wilderness Area is a strip of low quartzite The Cederberg Wilderness Area is a strip of low quartzite mountains (<2000m) a couple of hundred kilometres north of mountains (<2000m) a couple of hundred kilometres north of Cape Town, in Western Cape Province, South Africa. The conser- Cape Town, in Western Cape Province, South Africa. The conser- vation area ostensibly protects some gnarled old cedar trees, but vation area ostensibly protects some gnarled old cedar trees, but the diverse shrubs and herbacious plants of the fynbos ecosystem the diverse shrubs and herbacious plants of the fynbos ecosystem are certainly the most significant resource in the area. Cecil Rho- are certainly the most significant resource in the area. Cecil Rho- des planted some slopes with Monterrey Pine about a century ago, des planted some slopes with Monterrey Pine about a century ago, but most of the landscape is dry and rocky. In fact, easier access but most of the landscape is dry and rocky. In fact, easier access would make this spot (and much of South Africa, actually) a would make this spot (and much of South Africa, actually) a climbing and bouldering paradise. For now, the Cederberg is an climbing and bouldering paradise. For now, the Cederberg is an area for adventure, with a few developed cliffs separated by large area for adventure, with a few developed cliffs separated by large stretches of wilderness well-suited for hiking and wandering. stretches of wilderness well-suited for hiking and wandering.

Jen and I planned to spend most of a week in the Ceder- Jen and I planned to spend most of a week in the Ceder- berg, and had appropriate gear for hiking and climbing. In typical berg, and had appropriate gear for hiking and climbing. In typical VOC fashion, transportation was the initial crux. A few enquiries VOC fashion, transportation was the initial crux. A few enquiries around Cape Town led to a conversation with Van Wyke's around Cape Town led to a conversation with Van Wyke's (pronounced "Fan Veyk's") Transport. We were to be picked up (pronounced "Fan Veyk's") Transport. We were to be picked up by a minibus outside our house, at 83 Strubens St., at 3:30 AM. A by a minibus outside our house, at 83 Strubens St., at 3:30 AM. A near-sleepless night followed, but we were out on the sidewalk at near-sleepless night followed, but we were out on the sidewalk at the appropriate hour. By 4:30, Jen was fast asleep on the pave- the appropriate hour. By 4:30, Jen was fast asleep on the pavement, and there was no minibus in sight. At 5:30, the phone rang ment, and there was no minibus in sight. At 5:30, the phone rang in the house and I darted in to get it before it woke anyone else in the house and I darted in to get it before it woke anyone else up. "Hello, this is Van Wyke's; we're waiting for you outside 38 up. "Hello, this is Van Wyke's; we're waiting for you outside 38 Strubens St." "We're at 83 Strubens St." "Oh, ok." We were on Strubens St." "We're at 83 Strubens St." "Oh, ok." We were on

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 31 31 our way just before 6:00 am. our way just before 6:00 am.

Three hours later we rubbed our sleepy eyes and wondered Three hours later we rubbed our sleepy eyes and wondered how we had arrived on the dusty roadside in the middle of no- how we had arrived on the dusty roadside in the middle of nowhere. The park office was located at a village called Algeria, where. The park office was located at a village called Algeria, some 17 km away. We shouldered our packs and started hiking. some 17 km away. We shouldered our packs and started hiking. But or course we didn't have to go far: A friendly photographer But or course we didn't have to go far: A friendly photographer from Cape Town soon appeared and happily packed us into her from Cape Town soon appeared and happily packed us into her little car. It was the first of several terrific lifts we got in South Af- little car. It was the first of several terrific lifts we got in South Af- rica. After we picked up our permits, an amiable German fellow rica. After we picked up our permits, an amiable German fellow drove us a further 12 km up the road to our trailhead at an aban- drove us a further 12 km up the road to our trailhead at an abandoned forest station. As it was about noon, we figured we would doned forest station. As it was about noon, we figured we would avoid the hottest part of the day for hiking. We briefly worked on avoid the hottest part of the day for hiking. We briefly worked on our full-body tans, napped in the shade of lovely oak tree, and be- our full-body tans, napped in the shade of lovely oak tree, and began trudging along the dusty trail. Our destination: Tafelberg, a gan trudging along the dusty trail. Our destination: Tafelberg, a 1900 m peak with several reputedly excellent rock routes to the 1900 m peak with several reputedly excellent rock routes to the summit. summit.

The landscape was beautiful. Eroded rock formations were The landscape was beautiful. Eroded rock formations were interspersed with the old cedar trees, and protea bushes popped interspersed with the old cedar trees, and protea bushes popped out of every crevice. Across the valley we could see a chain of out of every crevice. Across the valley we could see a chain of mountain peaks parallel to the ones we were wandering along. mountain peaks parallel to the ones we were wandering along. Long, gradual slopes from one peak to the next contrasted with Long, gradual slopes from one peak to the next contrasted with steep cliffs facing the valley bottom. The trail itself was well- steep cliffs facing the valley bottom. The trail itself was well- marked for most of the way, and wound its way up the mountain marked for most of the way, and wound its way up the mountain via an endless series of switchbacks. Those readers familiar with via an endless series of switchbacks. Those readers familiar with Whistler's Wedgemount hut trail will have a good idea of the Whistler's Wedgemount hut trail will have a good idea of the route's nature: the Tafelberg trail was similar in length (about 4 route's nature: the Tafelberg trail was similar in length (about 4 hours counting a generous rest stop) and steepness, but hotter hours counting a generous rest stop) and steepness, but hotter and more barren. A flat terrace after about two and a half hours and more barren. A flat terrace after about two and a half hours offered a brief respite before the final push to the upper plateau. offered a brief respite before the final push to the upper plateau. With sweat-clouded eyes, we dragged ourselves over the rim of With sweat-clouded eyes, we dragged ourselves over the rim of the plateau and gazed up at the rocky peak. Several sections of flat the plateau and gazed up at the rocky peak. Several sections of flat bedrock provide good camping spots at this location; parties with bedrock provide good camping spots at this location; parties with energy to spare could continue up for a further 40 minutes or so energy to spare could continue up for a further 40 minutes or so to the actual cliff base and camp in a cave. We were quite happy to the actual cliff base and camp in a cave. We were quite happy to set our tent up on the plateau, among statuesque boulders and to set our tent up on the plateau, among statuesque boulders and bunchgrass. bunchgrass.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 32 32

Above us, the impressive wall of Tafelberg guarded the val- Above us, the impressive wall of Tafelberg guarded the valley. Picture a vaguely rectangular vertical face of beige and orange, ley. Picture a vaguely rectangular vertical face of beige and orange, about 150 metres high and one kilometre long. The cliff capped about 150 metres high and one kilometre long. The cliff capped the mountain like a cork in a gigantic bottle, with the scree slopes the mountain like a cork in a gigantic bottle, with the scree slopes falling away from steep cliffs on all sides of the peak. Tafelberg, falling away from steep cliffs on all sides of the peak. Tafelberg, despite a flat summit, is one of those pleasing mountain-tops with despite a flat summit, is one of those pleasing mountain-tops with no obvious easy route to the summit. (There is a scramble which no obvious easy route to the summit. (There is a scramble which is used as a walk-off for the climbs, but it is inobvious and diffi- is used as a walk-off for the climbs, but it is inobvious and difficult to find - as this story will show...) cult to find - as this story will show...)

After making camp, Jen prepared dinner while I went in After making camp, Jen prepared dinner while I went in search of water. It took longer than I expected to get up to the search of water. It took longer than I expected to get up to the cliff base and cave, and I found the simple diagram in the guide- cliff base and cave, and I found the simple diagram in the guidebook (depicting a blob of rock and an arrow: "water") rather sim- book (depicting a blob of rock and an arrow: "water") rather sim- plistic. While I scrambled around the rocks, the sun went down plistic. While I scrambled around the rocks, the sun went down without revealing the elusive stream. I got myself into all kinds of without revealing the elusive stream. I got myself into all kinds of trouble scrambling up rocks that had no easy way down and then trouble scrambling up rocks that had no easy way down and then having to downclimb technical sections in my hiking boots. After having to downclimb technical sections in my hiking boots. After a bit of dodgy stemming down an 8 metre chimney, I decided I'd a bit of dodgy stemming down an 8 metre chimney, I decided I'd had enough. The water could wait until morning. I started wan- had enough. The water could wait until morning. I started wandering back around the cliff to where I could see Jen's headlamp dering back around the cliff to where I could see Jen's headlamp in the distance - a wonderful sight. Nearly another full hour in the distance - a wonderful sight. Nearly another full hour passed before I was back at the tent, and I gratefully collapsed at passed before I was back at the tent, and I gratefully collapsed at the end of a long day. We awoke the following morning when the the end of a long day. We awoke the following morning when the sun hit the tent. A half hour walk led to an ephemeral stream and sun hit the tent. A half hour walk led to an ephemeral stream and a puddle just large enough to accommodate our water filter. We a puddle just large enough to accommodate our water filter. We were finally ready for some climbing. were finally ready for some climbing.

'Teapot Wall' ascends the left side of the main cliff face in 'Teapot Wall' ascends the left side of the main cliff face in four pitches. The guidebook text description suggests a rating of four pitches. The guidebook text description suggests a rating of '13' (5.6/7) for the crux pitch, but two separate photos on subse- '13' (5.6/7) for the crux pitch, but two separate photos on subse- quent pages bear the labels "Teapot Wall: '15'" (5.7/8). In any quent pages bear the labels "Teapot Wall: '15'" (5.7/8). In any case, the route looked doable, and we eagerly set off up the scree. case, the route looked doable, and we eagerly set off up the scree. After a half hour, we were at the base of the rock. A committing After a half hour, we were at the base of the rock. A committing scramble up a chimney and through a rabbit hole led to a scramble up a chimney and through a rabbit hole led to a spacious ledge and the start of the climbing route. spacious ledge and the start of the climbing route.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 33 33 After several glances back and forth between the guide- After several glances back and forth between the guidebook and the rock, we selected our initial line: a juggy and strenu- book and the rock, we selected our initial line: a juggy and strenuous overhang followed by a pleasant face and then another ledge. ous overhang followed by a pleasant face and then another ledge. The rock was beautifully clean and solid quartzite, with sufficient The rock was beautifully clean and solid quartzite, with sufficient protection and holds to make for fun and exciting climbing. The protection and holds to make for fun and exciting climbing. The description of the first pitch in the guidebook ends with "traverse description of the first pitch in the guidebook ends with "traverse 20 m to the left". This phrase was to be the first source of puzzle- 20 m to the left". This phrase was to be the first source of puzzle- ment for us. In the photo, it appeared that the traverse occurred ment for us. In the photo, it appeared that the traverse occurred at the start of the second pitch, and that it was considerably less at the start of the second pitch, and that it was considerably less than 20m in length. But initially, we thought we had the first pitch than 20m in length. But initially, we thought we had the first pitch figured out. After another section of face climbing, I made a long figured out. After another section of face climbing, I made a long traverse to the right, and then continued up another section of traverse to the right, and then continued up another section of steep face to a perch. When Jen followed, I hadn't realised how steep face to a perch. When Jen followed, I hadn't realised how far to the right I would need to go, and had done a poor job of far to the right I would need to go, and had done a poor job of protecting the traverse. She was less than thrilled about doing the protecting the traverse. She was less than thrilled about doing the moves, as she faced a long and nasty pendulum fall if she slipped. moves, as she faced a long and nasty pendulum fall if she slipped. I didn't disagree, but silently hoped that she didn't fall. After a I didn't disagree, but silently hoped that she didn't fall. After a brief struggle, she made it up in good style, and I breathed a sigh brief struggle, she made it up in good style, and I breathed a sigh of relief as she joined me up on the perch. of relief as she joined me up on the perch.

We checked the book again, and comprehension slowly We checked the book again, and comprehension slowly dawned on us: the text description was wrong! It was dead wrong, dawned on us: the text description was wrong! It was dead wrong, and there could be no doubt about it. The 20 metre traverse at the and there could be no doubt about it. The 20 metre traverse at the end of the pitch was to the *right* rather than to the left as stated end of the pitch was to the *right* rather than to the left as stated in the text. The photo showed the correct route along the rock, in the text. The photo showed the correct route along the rock, but the dotted line crossed another route in the photo - a consid- but the dotted line crossed another route in the photo - a considerably harder route - and where the two lines crossed we had mis- erably harder route - and where the two lines crossed we had mis- takenly followed the other route (which veered to the left). So takenly followed the other route (which veered to the left). So there we sat on this awkward perch while the spacious ledge we there we sat on this awkward perch while the spacious ledge we were supposed to be on mocked us from below. I lowered Jen were supposed to be on mocked us from below. I lowered Jen and then rappelled off a slung boulder and nut, annoyed at having and then rappelled off a slung boulder and nut, annoyed at having to abandon my red Smiley nut because of a guidebook error. But to abandon my red Smiley nut because of a guidebook error. But we were back on track, and knew to follow the photo and ignore we were back on track, and knew to follow the photo and ignore the text. A solid hex provided a secure the text. A solid hex provided a secure anchor as I contemplated the next pitch, which looked tricky. anchor as I contemplated the next pitch, which looked tricky.

The exposure suddenly hit home when I faced a scramble The exposure suddenly hit home when I faced a scramble across a bottomless notch. After that came a much-needed piece across a bottomless notch. After that came a much-needed piece

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 34 34 of protection and then an insecure pull over a bulge to a nice rest. of protection and then an insecure pull over a bulge to a nice rest. From that point a step around a corner brought me onto the main From that point a step around a corner brought me onto the main face, where a finger and hand traverse crossed a steep wall to the face, where a finger and hand traverse crossed a steep wall to the right as the ground suddenly dropped away below. right as the ground suddenly dropped away below.

Perhaps it was that many months had elapsed since my last Perhaps it was that many months had elapsed since my last exposed multipitch, but I was terrified. Even now I can vividly exposed multipitch, but I was terrified. Even now I can vividly remember fumbling with my #10 hex while I moaned and wailed remember fumbling with my #10 hex while I moaned and wailed about how much I wanted the big cams that I had left home to about how much I wanted the big cams that I had left home to save weight. In retrospect, there was plenty of good gear. But save weight. In retrospect, there was plenty of good gear. But what a difference exposure makes! It took some convincing for what a difference exposure makes! It took some convincing for Jen to join me. The truth came out: she didn't trust natural protec- Jen to join me. The truth came out: she didn't trust natural protection at all. This was ok for straightforward up-and-down cracks tion at all. This was ok for straightforward up-and-down cracks where only the leader depended on the gear placements; but on where only the leader depended on the gear placements; but on traverses, the second's safety during the climb also relies on the traverses, the second's safety during the climb also relies on the soundness of the gear. I was both amused and alarmed to hear soundness of the gear. I was both amused and alarmed to hear that each time I set off to lead a pitch Jen fully expected me to that each time I set off to lead a pitch Jen fully expected me to plummet and rip out all my gear, should I take a fall. But it was a plummet and rip out all my gear, should I take a fall. But it was a tricky pitch, and she was forced to rest on the gear once or twice. tricky pitch, and she was forced to rest on the gear once or twice. It held just fine. It held just fine.

After the second pitch, the climb went more smoothly. We After the second pitch, the climb went more smoothly. We were expecting a long struggle for the third pitch based on the were expecting a long struggle for the third pitch based on the guidebook writeup ('13', 46m - the supposed crux pitch). It ended guidebook writeup ('13', 46m - the supposed crux pitch). It ended up being less than half that length and about 4 grades easier (and up being less than half that length and about 4 grades easier (and yes, we were on the right route); it was simple, juggy and well- yes, we were on the right route); it was simple, juggy and well- protected face climbing. The fourth pitch was highly enjoyable protected face climbing. The fourth pitch was highly enjoyable and varied: a scramble onto a block was followed by a hop over a and varied: a scramble onto a block was followed by a hop over a lip and then stemming across a dihedral. A short steep face right lip and then stemming across a dihedral. A short steep face right at the top gave a brief sting in the tail, but then suddenly we were at the top gave a brief sting in the tail, but then suddenly we were at the top. It felt great to be there, even as we gazed out at the set- at the top. It felt great to be there, even as we gazed out at the setting sun... ting sun...

The landscape on top of Tafelberg was even more spec- The landscape on top of Tafelberg was even more spectacular than its surroundings. It was magical - positively lunar, ac- tacular than its surroundings. It was magical - positively lunar, actually. The summit consisted of about one square kilometre of tually. The summit consisted of about one square kilometre of rock devoid of any soil or vegetation. The surface had been rock devoid of any soil or vegetation. The surface had been carved over geologic time into countless huecos, potholes, and carved over geologic time into countless huecos, potholes, and

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 35 35 statues, and in the pink light of the setting sun, weird and wonder- statues, and in the pink light of the setting sun, weird and wonderful shadows were cast in all directions. We had little time to sa- ful shadows were cast in all directions. We had little time to sa- vour the view, however, as we suddenly faced the problem of vour the view, however, as we suddenly faced the problem of finding the descent trail in the fading light. The carved rock for- finding the descent trail in the fading light. The carved rock formations, aesthetic beauty notwithstanding, made finding cairns mations, aesthetic beauty notwithstanding, made finding cairns near-impossible. We thought we were on the right track once or near-impossible. We thought we were on the right track once or twice, only to find that what we saw as cairns were mere projec- twice, only to find that what we saw as cairns were mere projec- tions of the surface rock. We briefly followed a natural water run- tions of the surface rock. We briefly followed a natural water run- nel, hoping it might lead to an easy way down. Instead, we found nel, hoping it might lead to an easy way down. Instead, we found ourselves staring at a dizzying eroded chimney, about 5 feet wide, ourselves staring at a dizzying eroded chimney, about 5 feet wide, 200 feet deep and several hundred feet long. We came to our 200 feet deep and several hundred feet long. We came to our senses and scrambled back up. senses and scrambled back up.

Well, it was dark. We didn't have headlamps, since, after all, Well, it was dark. We didn't have headlamps, since, after all, we started at 10:00 am and it was only a 4-pitch climb! Who ever we started at 10:00 am and it was only a 4-pitch climb! Who ever heard of 10 hours to climb 4 pitches? We were feeling rather heard of 10 hours to climb 4 pitches? We were feeling rather bumbly, and were all the more eager to be safely back on the bumbly, and were all the more eager to be safely back on the ground. Finally, we found what appeared to be a long ramp and ground. Finally, we found what appeared to be a long ramp and gully that looked promising. We gingerly made our way down, gully that looked promising. We gingerly made our way down, treading carefully in the dark and holding on to tufts of wiry treading carefully in the dark and holding on to tufts of wiry shrubs. After a long hour of scratching our way downwards, we shrubs. After a long hour of scratching our way downwards, we suddenly came to a cliff. We peered around, but couldn't find a suddenly came to a cliff. We peered around, but couldn't find a way around it. We were separated from the scree slope - and ulti- way around it. We were separated from the scree slope - and ultimately our tent - by what appeared to be a 50 foot vertical cliff. I mately our tent - by what appeared to be a 50 foot vertical cliff. I started to rig up a rappel sling off of what appeared to be a horn, started to rig up a rappel sling off of what appeared to be a horn, but Jen stopped me. We really couldn't see much at all, and had but Jen stopped me. We really couldn't see much at all, and had no idea about what the anchor we were about to trust our lives to no idea about what the anchor we were about to trust our lives to really looked like. It would be a first bivvy for both of us. really looked like. It would be a first bivvy for both of us.

We selected a patch of flat rock not too close to the cliff We selected a patch of flat rock not too close to the cliff edge and set about trying to get comfortable. It's a funny thing, edge and set about trying to get comfortable. It's a funny thing, but it can be cold at night in Africa. Somehow, I never thought of but it can be cold at night in Africa. Somehow, I never thought of the insulating properties of my gear as overly important, but there the insulating properties of my gear as overly important, but there we were trying to get maximum skin coverage from our chalk we were trying to get maximum skin coverage from our chalk bags, harnesses, and even the rack. A cool wind was blowing, and bags, harnesses, and even the rack. A cool wind was blowing, and our shorts and t-shirts (Jen had a tank top) weren't doing much to our shorts and t-shirts (Jen had a tank top) weren't doing much to keep us warm. We shared a Power Bar - brought as an after- keep us warm. We shared a Power Bar - brought as an after- thought - and our last few drops of water. The rope was carefully thought - and our last few drops of water. The rope was carefully

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 36 36 coiled over our bodies, and when it didn't fall off, it was just coiled over our bodies, and when it didn't fall off, it was just barely adequate. After an hour of shivering, we rose to find a barely adequate. After an hour of shivering, we rose to find a more sheltered spot. We soon found a boulder to huddle under more sheltered spot. We soon found a boulder to huddle under and repeated the same routine. It was a long, cramped night. We and repeated the same routine. It was a long, cramped night. We tried to wait as long as possible between glances at our watches, tried to wait as long as possible between glances at our watches, but the hours crept by. but the hours crept by.

Of course, eventually the sun broke over the horizon. We'd Of course, eventually the sun broke over the horizon. We'd huddled under the rock for about 5 hours by the time we got up huddled under the rock for about 5 hours by the time we got up and stretched. I was pleased to find that the rock I had considered and stretched. I was pleased to find that the rock I had considered using as a rappel anchor the night before looked good and solid. using as a rappel anchor the night before looked good and solid. We slung the horn and rappelled off. We got back to the tent just We slung the horn and rappelled off. We got back to the tent just after 8:00 am. after 8:00 am.

That day, we shelved our plans of doing another climb. We That day, we shelved our plans of doing another climb. We napped, drank water, and took it easy. Another couple appeared napped, drank water, and took it easy. Another couple appeared in the early afternoon, carrying huge packs laden with climbing in the early afternoon, carrying huge packs laden with climbing gear. We chatted briefly, and told them of our tiring epic. They gear. We chatted briefly, and told them of our tiring epic. They asked which guidebook we were following, and we showed them. asked which guidebook we were following, and we showed them. "Oh, well no wonder. That's written by a British guy who doesn't "Oh, well no wonder. That's written by a British guy who doesn't know the first thing about South Africa!" Well, you are all hereby know the first thing about South Africa!" Well, you are all hereby forewarned about "Cape Rock", by Julian Fischer. Caveat emp- forewarned about "Cape Rock", by Julian Fischer. Caveat emp- tor.... The next day, still feeling tame, we wandered around the tor.... The next day, still feeling tame, we wandered around the plateau a bit carrying our rock shoes. We soloed up a short but plateau a bit carrying our rock shoes. We soloed up a short but impressive-looking tower. We eventually did a bit of bouldering, impressive-looking tower. We eventually did a bit of bouldering, and found some nice lines. and found some nice lines.

The following morning, we packed up and started hiking The following morning, we packed up and started hiking out. It was damp and misty, and we felt no desire to stay. The out. It was damp and misty, and we felt no desire to stay. The mountain spirits were clearly hinting that our time in the Ceder- mountain spirits were clearly hinting that our time in the Ceder- berg was at an end. We felt bad for the other couple who had ar- berg was at an end. We felt bad for the other couple who had arrived and just missed all the clear days we'd had, but such is the rived and just missed all the clear days we'd had, but such is the fickle nature of the mountains. Some baboons yelped out warning fickle nature of the mountains. Some baboons yelped out warning cries in the valley below as we came down. Just before we reached cries in the valley below as we came down. Just before we reached the valley bottom, the clouds parted and it suddenly got hot again. the valley bottom, the clouds parted and it suddenly got hot again. Once again, we were dripping with sweat as we got back to the Once again, we were dripping with sweat as we got back to the oak trees and the abandoned forest station. There's no denying it: oak trees and the abandoned forest station. There's no denying it: it sure is hot in Africa... it sure is hot in Africa...

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 37 37

Lions and Tigers and Snakes Lions and Tigers and Snakes Jeremy Frimer Jeremy Frimer

My weekend was pretty fun. I wanted to go aid climbing in My weekend was pretty fun. I wanted to go aid climbing in the rain but unfortunately, it got sunny. Aiding seemed to be my the rain but unfortunately, it got sunny. Aiding seemed to be my kind of pain... MG said "Aid is 90% work and 10% fun". I said to kind of pain... MG said "Aid is 90% work and 10% fun". I said to myself "10% ain't bad" I solo aided Exasperator, which was tres myself "10% ain't bad" I solo aided Exasperator, which was tres cool. I placed a lot of nuts and cams and didn't rip any out. I cool. I placed a lot of nuts and cams and didn't rip any out. I could see myself already: way sick big wall nailer... A5 guru... could see myself already: way sick big wall nailer... A5 guru...

Exasperator...I think it might just go free! ...Somewhere in Exasperator...I think it might just go free! ...Somewhere in the 10a to 10c range but I'm not too sure. There was a little evi- the 10a to 10c range but I'm not too sure. There was a little evidence of other human activity such as rap anchors, old pin scars, dence of other human activity such as rap anchors, old pin scars, trails, and scrubbed clean rock but I speculate that this climb was trails, and scrubbed clean rock but I speculate that this climb was the first ascent. I'd rate it A5+ but that rating requires confirma- the first ascent. I'd rate it A5+ but that rating requires confirma- tion. So I fixed it and went and slept under one of the Kacade- tion. So I fixed it and went and slept under one of the Kacade- mon boulders. I had a fire. It was good. mon boulders. I had a fire. It was good.

Jeff joined me on Sunday and we continued up the original Jeff joined me on Sunday and we continued up the original start to "Zorro's Last Ride". He led two "ugly" mixed free/aid start to "Zorro's Last Ride". He led two "ugly" mixed free/aid pitches above Exasperator. "No wonder no one makes Exasper- pitches above Exasperator. "No wonder no one makes Exasper- ator into a 3-pitch climb". They were very bushy and mossy. But ator into a 3-pitch climb". They were very bushy and mossy. But above that, I set off on an arching, flaring, right-facing corner (if above that, I set off on an arching, flaring, right-facing corner (if you can envision that). Everything was against me. This must be you can envision that). Everything was against me. This must be the hardest aid pitch the world has ever seen. Pretty "heads up". It the hardest aid pitch the world has ever seen. Pretty "heads up". It must have been 2 or 3 hundred degrees overhanging. It was really must have been 2 or 3 hundred degrees overhanging. It was really cool because we were right under the massive roof that cuts the cool because we were right under the massive roof that cuts the entire right side of the Grand. entire right side of the Grand.

The going was tough but I said to myself such words of The going was tough but I said to myself such words of encouragement such as "I must persevere" and "I think I can" so encouragement such as "I must persevere" and "I think I can" so I kept going and going. It was really awkward aid that required a I kept going and going. It was really awkward aid that required a lot of nailing (the way sick variety). Basically, there was a very lot of nailing (the way sick variety). Basically, there was a very thin, flaring crack at the back this flaring dihedral (with snakes thin, flaring crack at the back this flaring dihedral (with snakes and lions and tigers in it). So it was slow but the placements were and lions and tigers in it). So it was slow but the placements were pretty secure. Eventually, though, they began to get a little less se- pretty secure. Eventually, though, they began to get a little less secure (copper heads and tied off pins) but I kept going anyways. cure (copper heads and tied off pins) but I kept going anyways.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 38 38 I must have been 7 or 8 hundred feet from the belay when I must have been 7 or 8 hundred feet from the belay when I came face to face with a King Cobra that didn't take fancy to me I came face to face with a King Cobra that didn't take fancy to me nailing up his back. So I yelled down to Jeff "send up the .44" and nailing up his back. So I yelled down to Jeff "send up the .44" and he did. I shot that snake dead and ate him on the spot. With cobra he did. I shot that snake dead and ate him on the spot. With cobra blood still dripping from my chops, I kept going... blood still dripping from my chops, I kept going... At some point, I got to a particulary bad spot and ended up At some point, I got to a particulary bad spot and ended up bounce-testing 3 pins and an RP out in a row. I was getting frus- bounce-testing 3 pins and an RP out in a row. I was getting frustrated and started to think that I might need to place a copper

Photo: Jeffrey Martin Photo: Jeffrey Martin trated and started to think that I might need to place a copper head, but I tried one last pin. I guess I was a little frustrated so I head, but I tried one last pin. I guess I was a little frustrated so I became careless. OK, let's get this straight: when you hit a pin, are became careless. OK, let's get this straight: when you hit a pin, are you supposed to hit the pin directly with the hammer or are you you supposed to hit the pin directly with the hammer or are you supposed to put your finger on the pin and bash your finger in supposed to put your finger on the pin and bash your finger in order to transmit momentum to the pin? I got a little confused order to transmit momentum to the pin? I got a little confused there and chose the latter. So, my fingernail ripped in half and in there and chose the latter. So, my fingernail ripped in half and in started bleeding pretty gross. After scaring all the peregrine fal- started bleeding pretty gross. After scaring all the peregrine fal- cons away with a few profanities, I was able to slow the bleeding cons away with a few profanities, I was able to slow the bleeding and place a reasonable nut and a marginal cam a little lower down and place a reasonable nut and a marginal cam a little lower down to lower off. to lower off.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 39 39 Jeff, the first-grade Superman, went up to try to finish off Jeff, the first-grade Superman, went up to try to finish off the lead but after trying this and that for a while, he didn't think the lead but after trying this and that for a while, he didn't think we had the time or equipment to figure out that pitch. Besides, if we had the time or equipment to figure out that pitch. Besides, if that pitch required 10 copper heads and they are $3.95 a piece at that pitch required 10 copper heads and they are $3.95 a piece at MEC, that pitch would have cost $3.95 x 10 = WAY TOO MEC, that pitch would have cost $3.95 x 10 = WAY TOO MUCH. We couldn't afford to finish that pitch! That's the REAL MUCH. We couldn't afford to finish that pitch! That's the REAL reason why we backed off. Not lions nor tigers nor poisonous reason why we backed off. Not lions nor tigers nor poisonous snakes were formidable enough to stop us. But Uncle Sam's ab- snakes were formidable enough to stop us. But Uncle Sam's absence in our lives was the straw that broke the camels' back. So sence in our lives was the straw that broke the camels' back. So we left 2 pins and went home. we left 2 pins and went home. My finger's pretty raw right now and it might be broken My finger's pretty raw right now and it might be broken but Daddy says that they can't really do anything for it so may as but Daddy says that they can't really do anything for it so may as well not bother going to the hospital. It looks pretty grim though. well not bother going to the hospital. It looks pretty grim though. So, I went aiding and I had a pretty good time. I figure MG was So, I went aiding and I had a pretty good time. I figure MG was almost right. Aiding is 85% work, 5% fun, and 10% lions and ti- almost right. Aiding is 85% work, 5% fun, and 10% lions and tigers and snakes. gers and snakes.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 40 40

Report from the South-East Report from the South-East Michael Guité Michael Guité

The South-East of England, that is. I arrived here last Octo- The South-East of England, that is. I arrived here last Octo- ber, and I wasn’t sure that I would be able to survive for very long ber, and I wasn’t sure that I would be able to survive for very long without climbing or skiing. Oh boy, living in London. There’s no without climbing or skiing. Oh boy, living in London. There’s no better way to not climb, I said. Fortunately for me a climbing better way to not climb, I said. Fortunately for me a climbing partner had already presented himself. Stella’s Uncle Michael had partner had already presented himself. Stella’s Uncle Michael had been climbing for years, and lived only a half-hour away. So my been climbing for years, and lived only a half-hour away. So my climbing survival plan for living in London was on the right path. climbing survival plan for living in London was on the right path.

And as for the next stage, I was pleasantly surprised to find And as for the next stage, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the nearest climbing venue was not at all bad… I took back that the nearest climbing venue was not at all bad… I took back what I said! The sandstone outcrops near Tunbridge Wells offer what I said! The sandstone outcrops near Tunbridge Wells offer a great venue, and are about three-quarters of an hour’s drive a great venue, and are about three-quarters of an hour’s drive south of the city. The locale was typically Wealden, with nice little south of the city. The locale was typically Wealden, with nice little villages full of ye olde pubs and churches, surrounded by lightly villages full of ye olde pubs and churches, surrounded by lightly forested countryside and plenty of rolling fields bounded by forested countryside and plenty of rolling fields bounded by hedgerows. The sprinkling of stately homes and oast-houses hedgerows. The sprinkling of stately homes and oast-houses throughout the landscape also added a certain air of civility to the throughout the landscape also added a certain air of civility to the setting. Not pristine wilderness, but quite nice none the less. setting. Not pristine wilderness, but quite nice none the less. And to top it off, every time we have gone out we have always And to top it off, every time we have gone out we have always ended the day in one of the nice pubs. Uncle Michael’s favourite ended the day in one of the nice pubs. Uncle Michael’s favourite is the Crown in Groombridge. Nice atmosphere, low ceilings, is the Crown in Groombridge. Nice atmosphere, low ceilings, and it has been in continuous operation for something like 400 and it has been in continuous operation for something like 400 years. And there are no televisions inside! years. And there are no televisions inside!

Apparently the first recorded ascents were made some sev- Apparently the first recorded ascents were made some seventy years ago, and the first references to the rocks made in 1857, enty years ago, and the first references to the rocks made in 1857, by a then soon to be President of the Alpine Club, E.J. Kennedy. by a then soon to be President of the Alpine Club, E.J. Kennedy. He was out looking for a specimen of Hymenophyllum tunbridgense, He was out looking for a specimen of Hymenophyllum tunbridgense, the Tunbridge filmy fern. It’s a species exclusive to the southern the Tunbridge filmy fern. It’s a species exclusive to the southern sandstone, and for its sake some of the rocks are protected areas sandstone, and for its sake some of the rocks are protected areas and off-limits to climbing. Uncle Michael and I went out looking and off-limits to climbing. Uncle Michael and I went out looking for a specimen one day, but the little things are supposed to be for a specimen one day, but the little things are supposed to be borderline microscopic, so we assumed we had found it once we borderline microscopic, so we assumed we had found it once we had identified a slimy green mass growing on part of the crag. had identified a slimy green mass growing on part of the crag.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 41 41 Mmmm. Mmmm.

The rocks themselves are outcropped along ridgelines, and The rocks themselves are outcropped along ridgelines, and are generally to be found in either linear formations or in little are generally to be found in either linear formations or in little hollows, with the climbing cliffs being on average about eight or hollows, with the climbing cliffs being on average about eight or ten metres high. Not big, admittedly, but super value nonetheless. ten metres high. Not big, admittedly, but super value nonetheless. I have read that the rock is very like that which is found at Fon- I have read that the rock is very like that which is found at Fon- tainebleau, but I wouldn’t know. The sandstone is incredibly soft, tainebleau, but I wouldn’t know. The sandstone is incredibly soft, and because of that conventional protection is completely useless. and because of that conventional protection is completely useless. Not only would the equipment simply tear out if fallen upon, but Not only would the equipment simply tear out if fallen upon, but also it would scrape large bits of rock away at the same time! And also it would scrape large bits of rock away at the same time! And since the bolts have to be great long glued-in things that would since the bolts have to be great long glued-in things that would irrevocably scar the cliffs, they are only allowed as anchors. This irrevocably scar the cliffs, they are only allowed as anchors. This all means that the only acceptable techniques are either soloing or all means that the only acceptable techniques are either soloing or top-roping. Bouldering abounds! top-roping. Bouldering abounds!

Also very interesting are the occasional towers that are sepa- Also very interesting are the occasional towers that are separated from the main cliffs. To climb them either requires a highly rated from the main cliffs. To climb them either requires a highly stimulating leap of faith across the gap at the top, or a frightening stimulating leap of faith across the gap at the top, or a frightening solo up if the gap is too wide. Also, since the rock is so soft, solo up if the gap is too wide. Also, since the rock is so soft, ropes running over it have caused large scars to be filed into the ropes running over it have caused large scars to be filed into the tops of the cliffs. This has resulted in a total ban on lowering off tops of the cliffs. This has resulted in a total ban on lowering off and rappelling. That equates to walking off the sides of the cliffs, and rappelling. That equates to walking off the sides of the cliffs, or if on one of the towers, a very scary soloed downclimb! or if on one of the towers, a very scary soloed downclimb! Should one ignore the warnings and lower off, they should be Should one ignore the warnings and lower off, they should be prepared to become generally loathed, and to take a massive bar- prepared to become generally loathed, and to take a massive bar- rage of evil eyes and nasty comments. rage of evil eyes and nasty comments.

I found the climbs to be usually near vertical or occasionally I found the climbs to be usually near vertical or occasionally overhanging, and usually quite blank except for the horizontal overhanging, and usually quite blank except for the horizontal breaks across the climbs usually at about five foot intervals. I breaks across the climbs usually at about five foot intervals. I have also found the holds to fall into two general categories. The have also found the holds to fall into two general categories. The first and more common type of hold is the big sloping hard-to- first and more common type of hold is the big sloping hard-to- grip rounded bump. The kind off which you tend to slide off. grip rounded bump. The kind off which you tend to slide off. The second type is the fine, sharp little feature that has the ten- The second type is the fine, sharp little feature that has the ten- dency to chomp bits out of your fingers. This second type of dency to chomp bits out of your fingers. This second type of hold is by far the more interesting, because they usually occur in hold is by far the more interesting, because they usually occur in these little patches of harder rock that stick out from the face be- these little patches of harder rock that stick out from the face be-

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 42 42 cause they have weathered more slowly, or are found within the cause they have weathered more slowly, or are found within the really weird honeycomb patterns that adorn parts of the cliffs. really weird honeycomb patterns that adorn parts of the cliffs. They creep up on you, and always are not there when you first try They creep up on you, and always are not there when you first try to climb the route, but upon later attempts they somehow come to climb the route, but upon later attempts they somehow come into existence. Both types of holds are the sorts that make your into existence. Both types of holds are the sorts that make your forearms burn. In general, imagine a cross between those really forearms burn. In general, imagine a cross between those really fun tidal features that litter the shorelines of some of the Gulf Is- fun tidal features that litter the shorelines of some of the Gulf Is- lands, crossed with the cliffs that are opposite Siwash Rock above lands, crossed with the cliffs that are opposite Siwash Rock above the seawall. the seawall.

I have been out quite a bit over the winter, and am greatly I have been out quite a bit over the winter, and am greatly looking forward to the summer. This perhaps has something to looking forward to the summer. This perhaps has something to do with the trails into the crags, for they are usually undeveloped do with the trails into the crags, for they are usually undeveloped and run over what could be prime agricultural land. Muddy, that and run over what could be prime agricultural land. Muddy, that is. I don’t know what it is, but I think that Brits really do enjoy is. I don’t know what it is, but I think that Brits really do enjoy their mud. They go in for stomping around in big Wellington their mud. They go in for stomping around in big Wellington boots in the kind of mud that is mostly clay, which balls up boots in the kind of mud that is mostly clay, which balls up around your foot making it impossible to get a grip on the around your foot making it impossible to get a grip on the ground. The winter here was humid, and the rocks have had a ground. The winter here was humid, and the rocks have had a greasy feel even when they are truly dry. Actually, I don’t know if greasy feel even when they are truly dry. Actually, I don’t know if summer will be much better from the friction standpoint, for on summer will be much better from the friction standpoint, for on the dry days I have experienced the rock, every hold has had a lit- the dry days I have experienced the rock, every hold has had a little dune of sand on it, acting like thousands of little ball bearings. tle dune of sand on it, acting like thousands of little ball bearings. The key seems to be making sure that all the sand is off your The key seems to be making sure that all the sand is off your shoes before you start the climb. I have been told my grade will shoes before you start the climb. I have been told my grade will improve with the weather, so there is hope yet! Climbing condi- improve with the weather, so there is hope yet! Climbing conditions such as these are super, because they make you trust what tions such as these are super, because they make you trust what instinctively you shouldn’t. And on the harder climbs, you are instinctively you shouldn’t. And on the harder climbs, you are forced to perform daring moves off of at best tenuous holds. forced to perform daring moves off of at best tenuous holds. Fun stuff! Fun stuff!

Come to think of it, the combination of the sand and the Come to think of it, the combination of the sand and the ethics has played a strange roll in the development of climbing at ethics has played a strange roll in the development of climbing at these cliffs. Never before have I seen so many people using ei- these cliffs. Never before have I seen so many people using either old static or hawser-laid ropes. Many folk here are just not ther old static or hawser-laid ropes. Many folk here are just not willing to invest in new equipment just so it can be ripped to willing to invest in new equipment just so it can be ripped to shreds by the sand. And several people I have met don’t use har- shreds by the sand. And several people I have met don’t use harnesses at all, but rather the old bowline-on-a-coil. I tried this a nesses at all, but rather the old bowline-on-a-coil. I tried this a

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 43 43 while back, but it really wasn’t all that comfy. It kind of felt like I while back, but it really wasn’t all that comfy. It kind of felt like I was forcing my spleen up into my lungs when I fell off. Perhaps I was forcing my spleen up into my lungs when I fell off. Perhaps I should have tried it out on an easier climb! Many of the same should have tried it out on an easier climb! Many of the same folk also just hip belay, and loosely too, so that no one is seen to folk also just hip belay, and loosely too, so that no one is seen to be cheating on the climbs by resting on the rope. I know this be cheating on the climbs by resting on the rope. I know this next example is an anomaly, but I’m including it for entertainment next example is an anomaly, but I’m including it for entertainment value; one fellow Uncle Michael has told me about belays by just value; one fellow Uncle Michael has told me about belays by just holding the rope in his hand! It is so that he can be certain that holding the rope in his hand! It is so that he can be certain that his fellow climbers didn’t cheat on the climbs. Needless to say I his fellow climbers didn’t cheat on the climbs. Needless to say I haven’t yet nor intend to be belayed by this guy. haven’t yet nor intend to be belayed by this guy.

The other thing with climbing sandstone is that it is like The other thing with climbing sandstone is that it is like climbing a big sheet of sandpaper. When falling it is best to keep climbing a big sheet of sandpaper. When falling it is best to keep clear of the rock, because the texture of the sandstone is compa- clear of the rock, because the texture of the sandstone is comparable to standard 80 or 100 grit. My worst experience yet was not rable to standard 80 or 100 grit. My worst experience yet was not actually when I was falling, but when I was trying to get over a actually when I was falling, but when I was trying to get over a large rounded bulge from one small ledge to the next. The move large rounded bulge from one small ledge to the next. The move was a graceful seal-like lunge whist imagining that I was hanging was a graceful seal-like lunge whist imagining that I was hanging onto a sloping surface above my head. As I completed the move, onto a sloping surface above my head. As I completed the move, my feet were both pointing outwards. When I finally mantled up my feet were both pointing outwards. When I finally mantled up onto the rounded ledge, the insides of my ankles scraped their onto the rounded ledge, the insides of my ankles scraped their way up the rock. You know those little knobbly bits on your an- way up the rock. You know those little knobbly bits on your ankles? I removed all the skin from mine. I wore only sandals for kles? I removed all the skin from mine. I wore only sandals for the next week and a half while I grew some more. I now wear the next week and a half while I grew some more. I now wear socks when climbing here. socks when climbing here.

Sandstone climbing takes some getting used to, and at first I Sandstone climbing takes some getting used to, and at first I wasn’t able to climb even moderate climbs. I think the trick of it wasn’t able to climb even moderate climbs. I think the trick of it lies in trusting bad holds, and getting used to moving over horri- lies in trusting bad holds, and getting used to moving over horri- ble ground quickly so as not to test the true holding power of ble ground quickly so as not to test the true holding power of your feet or hands. I’ve had fun climbing here… in fact I’ll your feet or hands. I’ve had fun climbing here… in fact I’ll probably go out this weekend! It is actually possible to live in probably go out this weekend! It is actually possible to live in London and climb! London and climb!

For anyone who might be passing by this way, the standard For anyone who might be passing by this way, the standard guidebook is Southern Sandstone by Mike Vetterlein, alias Uncle guidebook is Southern Sandstone by Mike Vetterlein, alias Uncle Michael, published by the Climbers’ Club. As an aside, this is also Michael, published by the Climbers’ Club. As an aside, this is also a guidebook for the chalk sea-cliffs found along the South coast. a guidebook for the chalk sea-cliffs found along the South coast.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 44 44 Some of these cliffs can be climbed in the conventional fashion, Some of these cliffs can be climbed in the conventional fashion, but the more daring may opt for the softer formations near Dover but the more daring may opt for the softer formations near Dover or Beachy Head. These cliffs are climbed as if they were ice, with or Beachy Head. These cliffs are climbed as if they were ice, with the respective tools of course! Every year several more feet of the the respective tools of course! Every year several more feet of the cliffs fall into the ocean, so many of the routes that have been cliffs fall into the ocean, so many of the routes that have been completed simply do not exist any more. I’ve gone to have a look completed simply do not exist any more. I’ve gone to have a look at some of these out of curiosity, and concluded that in order to at some of these out of curiosity, and concluded that in order to attempt to climb them one would have to be moderately to com- attempt to climb them one would have to be moderately to completely insane. I’ll stick with the sandstone, thank-you very much. pletely insane. I’ll stick with the sandstone, thank-you very much.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 45 45

Red Rock 1999-2000 Red Rock 1999-2000 Yana Preston Yana Preston

After my plans of spending the holidays snowboarding in After my plans of spending the holidays snowboarding in Switzerland were dashed due to my friends excessive amount of Switzerland were dashed due to my friends excessive amount of work taking her away from her chalet in the alps, I made the deci- work taking her away from her chalet in the alps, I made the decision to get out of the Vancouver rain and go home for Christmas sion to get out of the Vancouver rain and go home for Christmas and a little boarding, then head down to Red Rocks. Sarah G. and and a little boarding, then head down to Red Rocks. Sarah G. and I jumped on a bus about 6:30 AM, Dec.26, 1999, to meet up with I jumped on a bus about 6:30 AM, Dec.26, 1999, to meet up with Sara P. in Hope at 10:30 AM. The three of us piled into her car Sara P. in Hope at 10:30 AM. The three of us piled into her car and headed off to OK Falls to fetch one Kelly Franz. The adven- and headed off to OK Falls to fetch one Kelly Franz. The adventure had begun. ture had begun.

We arrived in Red Rocks 36 hours after leaving my home We arrived in Red Rocks 36 hours after leaving my home in Kamloops with little incident (except for an hour or so at the in Kamloops with little incident (except for an hour or so at the border, a tasty lunch at the Franz residence in OK Falls, and a few border, a tasty lunch at the Franz residence in OK Falls, and a few early morning shifting problems). Good thing we had Sarah, the early morning shifting problems). Good thing we had Sarah, the Australian, to shift for me. "Ok, shift, shift, shift" Five hours Australian, to shift for me. "Ok, shift, shift, shift" Five hours later, "Sarah, wake up!" "Shift, shift, shift." later, "Sarah, wake up!" "Shift, shift, shift."

We pulled into the campground just before dusk and had We pulled into the campground just before dusk and had enough light to set up our tents and organize some food. Imme- enough light to set up our tents and organize some food. Imme- diately after dinner Kelly and Sara headed into their tent to…, diately after dinner Kelly and Sara headed into their tent to…, while Sarah and I wandered around to see what other VOCers we while Sarah and I wandered around to see what other VOCers we could locate. It wasn’t long before we ran into Matt, Jean, Ivon could locate. It wasn’t long before we ran into Matt, Jean, Ivon and Vlad, followed soon after by another group returning from a and Vlad, followed soon after by another group returning from a night in the city. Around 8:30 PM Mark’s car pulled in and we set night in the city. Around 8:30 PM Mark’s car pulled in and we set up some more tents, then crawled into bed. up some more tents, then crawled into bed.

The next morning our little group rose bright and early to The next morning our little group rose bright and early to head out to the Second Pullout to do some climbing around the head out to the Second Pullout to do some climbing around the Black Corridor and Magic Bus areas. Good times were had by all. Black Corridor and Magic Bus areas. Good times were had by all. The next day was again spent in the Second Pullout, doing a few The next day was again spent in the Second Pullout, doing a few climbs and playing on the rocks in the blazing sun as well as tak- climbs and playing on the rocks in the blazing sun as well as taking a few graphic photographs of Mark’s ass. That night we ing a few graphic photographs of Mark’s ass. That night we headed into Vegas for some feasting and gambling. Aahh! Cor- headed into Vegas for some feasting and gambling. Aahh! Cor- ruption in Sin City. Paradise Buffet fed us well that night and for ruption in Sin City. Paradise Buffet fed us well that night and for

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 46 46 The Gallery, Red Rocks The Gallery, Red Rocks Photo Elise Breyton Photo Elise Breyton

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 47 47 those of us who are ever so sneaky, it also supplied breakfast and those of us who are ever so sneaky, it also supplied breakfast and lunch for the following day. Arlin took us on a little bit of a gam- lunch for the following day. Arlin took us on a little bit of a gambling tour. Teaching us the ropes for slot machines and roulette bling tour. Teaching us the ropes for slot machines and roulette techniques. I think it paid off quite nicely. techniques. I think it paid off quite nicely.

The following morning took some of us off on a mini- The following morning took some of us off on a mini- epic. Our little epic adventure took us over 30 hours from leaving epic. Our little epic adventure took us over 30 hours from leaving the campsite to returning to the cars. Ok, so we have been in Red the campsite to returning to the cars. Ok, so we have been in Red Rocks for about 3 days and we were getting a little tired of being Rocks for about 3 days and we were getting a little tired of being only able to do the climbs in the Second pull out or at Magic bus only able to do the climbs in the Second pull out or at Magic bus without having to get someone else to set up a top rope for us. without having to get someone else to set up a top rope for us.

Sarah had been going on about wanting to do a mul- Sarah had been going on about wanting to do a multipitch with Matt since before we had left Vancouver, so it was tipitch with Matt since before we had left Vancouver, so it was decided that she, and maybe I, would head off to climb with him decided that she, and maybe I, would head off to climb with him and the French boys for the day. I had mentioned to the other and the French boys for the day. I had mentioned to the other Sara that I would actually like to go and do some bouldering that Sara that I would actually like to go and do some bouldering that day with her, but Sarah convinced me otherwise. Over breakfast, day with her, but Sarah convinced me otherwise. Over breakfast, we picked through the guide book looking for what looked like a we picked through the guide book looking for what looked like a reasonable climb. Or I guess I should say that I looked through reasonable climb. Or I guess I should say that I looked through the book for Sarah, since as usual she was disorganised or occu- the book for Sarah, since as usual she was disorganised or occupied with something else, although I’m never quite sure what that pied with something else, although I’m never quite sure what that “something else” is. I found one in the area called Lotta Balls. I “something else” is. I found one in the area called Lotta Balls. I figured there would be Matt and Sarah on the multipitch and I figured there would be Matt and Sarah on the multipitch and I could climb with Jean, Ivon and Vlad. could climb with Jean, Ivon and Vlad.

So we headed out, getting dropped off by Kelly and Ken So we headed out, getting dropped off by Kelly and Ken on their way to their multipitch and had a pick up time of 4:00 on their way to their multipitch and had a pick up time of 4:00 with Mark. We then waited for the boys to show up and started with Mark. We then waited for the boys to show up and started the hour walk in to the bottom of the cliffs. It turned out that the hour walk in to the bottom of the cliffs. It turned out that Jean had decided not to climb that day and only Matt, Ivon and Jean had decided not to climb that day and only Matt, Ivon and Vlad were there to climb, which left Matt as the only one who Vlad were there to climb, which left Matt as the only one who could lead trad. could lead trad.

We reached the base of Lotta Balls about 12:30 PM to We reached the base of Lotta Balls about 12:30 PM to find it was overrun by a large group of climbers, so we headed find it was overrun by a large group of climbers, so we headed along the wall past it. Matt set up a climb for Ivon and Vlad but along the wall past it. Matt set up a climb for Ivon and Vlad but since he was the only one who could place gear the going was since he was the only one who could place gear the going was

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 48 48 slow. I then, fatefully, noticed in the guide book another climb slow. I then, fatefully, noticed in the guide book another climb just beside the top-roped route; A “short” three pitch route called just beside the top-roped route; A “short” three pitch route called Algae on Parade, with an “easy” walk across the top of the but- Algae on Parade, with an “easy” walk across the top of the buttress to the two short rappels and walk off of the Lotta Balls tress to the two short rappels and walk off of the Lotta Balls climb. “Climb the corner in 3 short pitches to the top of the but- climb. “Climb the corner in 3 short pitches to the top of the buttress”, “Walk off left over the top then descend as per Lotta tress”, “Walk off left over the top then descend as per Lotta Balls”. Balls”.

I showed this to Sarah and suggested that her and Matt I showed this to Sarah and suggested that her and Matt go and do it. Sarah suggested that I and Matt do it and in the end go and do it. Sarah suggested that I and Matt do it and in the end all three of us went. The first pitch was the nicest, an easy 5.7 on all three of us went. The first pitch was the nicest, an easy 5.7 on black desert varnished rock, that brought us to a somewhat dodgy black desert varnished rock, that brought us to a somewhat dodgy belay station off of 3 slung chicken heads (another station was belay station off of 3 slung chicken heads (another station was visible about 10 feet below in the middle of a bush). Matt lead, I visible about 10 feet below in the middle of a bush). Matt lead, I seconded and Sarah followed me up on the rope that I had trailed seconded and Sarah followed me up on the rope that I had trailed up for her. up for her.

As Sarah approached somewhere about halfway up the As Sarah approached somewhere about halfway up the first pitch, Ivon yelled up that the rope they were using was stuck. first pitch, Ivon yelled up that the rope they were using was stuck. I suggested to Matt that we all rappel down and help them get it I suggested to Matt that we all rappel down and help them get it down. He said no, it was too dodgy of a rappel station. So we down. He said no, it was too dodgy of a rappel station. So we continued on up. Four long pitches later we reached the top. It continued on up. Four long pitches later we reached the top. It was now about 3:30. We looked around and could see no obvi- was now about 3:30. We looked around and could see no obvious route down, nor an obvious route across the buttress, and ous route down, nor an obvious route across the buttress, and most definitely no “walk off left”. most definitely no “walk off left”.

We started scrambling around, up and down numerous We started scrambling around, up and down numerous little gullies, that didn't lead anywhere but onto different rock little gullies, that didn't lead anywhere but onto different rock faces. We could not decide where to go. Basically the choice was faces. We could not decide where to go. Basically the choice was to: a) rappel down into a black canyon/chimney, the bottom be- to: a) rappel down into a black canyon/chimney, the bottom being invisible, we would be committed once we started; b) to climb ing invisible, we would be committed once we started; b) to climb up the back canyon behind the buttresses; or c) to down climb up the back canyon behind the buttresses; or c) to down climb three of the pitches and rappel off the station in the trees, sketchy three of the pitches and rappel off the station in the trees, sketchy with a lot of possibility of getting the rope stuck. with a lot of possibility of getting the rope stuck.

At this point we found a guide book that someone had At this point we found a guide book that someone had ditched. Knowing it would be dark soon we decided on b) the ditched. Knowing it would be dark soon we decided on b) the scramble up the canyon. Scrambling up the canyon, I chose scramble up the canyon. Scrambling up the canyon, I chose

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 49 49 somewhat of an easier route than Sarah and Matt. As we scram- somewhat of an easier route than Sarah and Matt. As we scrambled up, the gully seemed to be getting steeper and the panic bled up, the gully seemed to be getting steeper and the panic grew. We found a shoe. grew. We found a shoe.

Night started to settle in and so the debate began. What Night started to settle in and so the debate began. What to do? We had no food, no water and only the clothes on our to do? We had no food, no water and only the clothes on our backs, our cameras of course, plus the newly found guide book backs, our cameras of course, plus the newly found guide book and shoe. Luckily we had been climbing in the shade, so we all and shoe. Luckily we had been climbing in the shade, so we all had a least something like a jacket on, and even a down jacket for had a least something like a jacket on, and even a down jacket for

Still Smiling Still Smiling Photo: Yana Preston Photo: Yana Preston

Sarah, who found it very cold there even in the day. At the base Sarah, who found it very cold there even in the day. At the base of the climb sat the water, food, head lamp, wool shirts, and the of the climb sat the water, food, head lamp, wool shirts, and the emergency blanket. emergency blanket.

We decided to climb back down to the little alcove of We decided to climb back down to the little alcove of sand that I had seen earlier. Then Sarah, the Australian, decided sand that I had seen earlier. Then Sarah, the Australian, decided that she could start a fire by rubbing sticks together, like the Abo- that she could start a fire by rubbing sticks together, like the Abo- rigines. I, being the rock fanatic, decided on striking rocks to- rigines. I, being the rock fanatic, decided on striking rocks together, like a cave man. We collected dry leaves and branches and gether, like a cave man. We collected dry leaves and branches the competition began. Neither of us did very well but at least I and the competition began. Neither of us did very well but at

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 50 50 got some sparks. least I got some sparks.

The reasonable boy in the group, decided that we should The reasonable boy in the group, decided that we should collect some branches and leaves and make ourselves a nest to collect some branches and leaves and make ourselves a nest to keep warm in for the night. We collected as many as we could. I keep warm in for the night. We collected as many as we could. I would just like to say thank you to the trees for not all being those would just like to say thank you to the trees for not all being those damn prickle bushes. We piled leaves on the sand as insulation damn prickle bushes. We piled leaves on the sand as insulation and then piled it on top of us and placed our ropes and harnesses and then piled it on top of us and placed our ropes and harnesses on top of that. Who ever knew that a Camalot could keep you on top of that. Who ever knew that a Camalot could keep you warm? Sarah tucked us all in very nicely. warm? Sarah tucked us all in very nicely.

Just as we were all warm, snuggled up to each other with Just as we were all warm, snuggled up to each other with leaves and ropes distributed to perfection, the search party came leaves and ropes distributed to perfection, the search party came in. Of course we told them to go away. Sorry Mark. But then in. Of course we told them to go away. Sorry Mark. But then jumped out of our bed and tried to communicate. Yes we're ok, jumped out of our bed and tried to communicate. Yes we're ok, warm "enough", no we have no food or water, yes we'll see you warm "enough", no we have no food or water, yes we'll see you tomorrow, goodnight. Crawling back into our nest we just could- tomorrow, goodnight. Crawling back into our nest we just could- n't get quite the right distribution again and there seemed to be so n't get quite the right distribution again and there seemed to be so many leaves and branches missing that we had to collect some many leaves and branches missing that we had to collect some more. more.

Settled down again, I proceeded to discover a granola Settled down again, I proceeded to discover a granola bar, lifesavers (Thanks, Kelly) and toffees in my pocket. We bar, lifesavers (Thanks, Kelly) and toffees in my pocket. We saved the lifesavers and granola bar for the morning and split the saved the lifesavers and granola bar for the morning and split the toffees three ways, distributing them over the hours. I, of course, toffees three ways, distributing them over the hours. I, of course, proceeded to fall asleep almost immediately and began snoring. proceeded to fall asleep almost immediately and began snoring. Sorry guys. Sarah woke me about an hour later claiming that I Sorry guys. Sarah woke me about an hour later claiming that I was convulsing from the cold, I think she just wanted me to stop was convulsing from the cold, I think she just wanted me to stop snoring. We got up and ran around a bit, careful to not fall off snoring. We got up and ran around a bit, careful to not fall off any rocks or cliffs. Once warmed we changed positions and any rocks or cliffs. Once warmed we changed positions and curled up in our nest. curled up in our nest.

I was on the outside this time and fell asleep once again I was on the outside this time and fell asleep once again only to be awoken by the crack of a twig. I assumed that it was only to be awoken by the crack of a twig. I assumed that it was Sarah or Matt trying to get comfy. I opened my eyes and saw Sarah or Matt trying to get comfy. I opened my eyes and saw something slinking towards us through the bush. I yelled rather something slinking towards us through the bush. I yelled rather loudly, it paused and continued towards us. By this time some life loudly, it paused and continued towards us. By this time some life was showing in the other two. I pointed the thing out to them as was showing in the other two. I pointed the thing out to them as

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 51 51 it scampered by and tried to climb the rock. It didn't make it far it scampered by and tried to climb the rock. It didn't make it far and so turned back, to this time walk bravely by us. At this point and so turned back, to this time walk bravely by us. At this point I was able to identify it as a desert coyote. How it got there I will I was able to identify it as a desert coyote. How it got there I will never know. never know.

We switched positions again, placing poor brave Matt on We switched positions again, placing poor brave Matt on the outside and me against the rock. Time passed, I snored. the outside and me against the rock. Time passed, I snored. Early, early in the morning the cold got to all of us, so we moved Early, early in the morning the cold got to all of us, so we moved around and watched the beautiful sunrise and heated ourselves up around and watched the beautiful sunrise and heated ourselves up by trying to detangle the harnesses, gear and ropes from the by trying to detangle the harnesses, gear and ropes from the branches and twigs. We then ate the granola bar and headed up branches and twigs. We then ate the granola bar and headed up the gully. I was a fully shaking mess at this time but Matt and the gully. I was a fully shaking mess at this time but Matt and Sarah had it together. Sarah had it together.

After about an hour we decided we needed to rope our- After about an hour we decided we needed to rope ourselves in. As soon as Sarah ensured that I was properly tied in, I selves in. As soon as Sarah ensured that I was properly tied in, I was all better, but Sarah's nerves and wits were leaving slowly but was all better, but Sarah's nerves and wits were leaving slowly but surely. Matt led, Sarah followed and I removed gear on the trav- surely. Matt led, Sarah followed and I removed gear on the traverse, and belayed Matt. We climbed about another 200 meters. A erse, and belayed Matt. We climbed about another 200 meters. A few very sketchy traverses were made to reach a sketchy anchor few very sketchy traverses were made to reach a sketchy anchor that I had noticed from below. that I had noticed from below.

A few slings were added to it and down we rappelled. A few slings were added to it and down we rappelled. Three, 60m rappels, a few biners, webbing, cordelette, and a pack Three, 60m rappels, a few biners, webbing, cordelette, and a pack of lifesavers (each one broken into 1/3’s by my blackened hands) of lifesavers (each one broken into 1/3’s by my blackened hands) later we reached the top of Lotta Balls and the suggested route later we reached the top of Lotta Balls and the suggested route down. Three more short rappels and the 15 min scramble and we down. Three more short rappels and the 15 min scramble and we were down to almost level ground. We made our way back to our were down to almost level ground. We made our way back to our packs, debating if we would drink or remove the climbing shoes packs, debating if we would drink or remove the climbing shoes first. first.

Thirst overcame shoes but shoes overcame food. Not Thirst overcame shoes but shoes overcame food. Not that there was much food left, it appeared that our friend the coy- that there was much food left, it appeared that our friend the coyote had discovered the stash and eaten it all up except for some ote had discovered the stash and eaten it all up except for some chocolate in the depths of Matt’s bag. Content to be back on chocolate in the depths of Matt’s bag. Content to be back on solid ground, and in our hiking boots or sandals we slowly made solid ground, and in our hiking boots or sandals we slowly made our way back to the road and the lecture that awaited us. our way back to the road and the lecture that awaited us.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 52 52 I must say on our behalf that we did make it back to the I must say on our behalf that we did make it back to the pickup spot by 4:00 PM, 3:50 PM in fact, which was early, the pickup spot by 4:00 PM, 3:50 PM in fact, which was early, the only problem was it was the wrong day! only problem was it was the wrong day!

Six of us headed off to Joshua Tree that night where we Six of us headed off to Joshua Tree that night where we enjoyed New Year’s eve in a hotel in 29 Palms. We spent a few enjoyed New Year’s eve in a hotel in 29 Palms. We spent a few days climbing in J. Tree, but then decided to hit the beaches. We days climbing in J. Tree, but then decided to hit the beaches. We spent one night sleeping on the beach, hoping that the tide spent one night sleeping on the beach, hoping that the tide wouldn't reach our sleeping bags while asleep and that the rangers wouldn't reach our sleeping bags while asleep and that the rangers and police wouldn't arrest us. The day was spent swimming in the and police wouldn't arrest us. The day was spent swimming in the icy ocean, lounging on the overheated empty beaches and imitat- icy ocean, lounging on the overheated empty beaches and imitat- ing the wild life, mainly the overgrown elephant seals. Ken, you ing the wild life, mainly the overgrown elephant seals. Ken, you really bonded with them. Good times were had by all. We drove really bonded with them. Good times were had by all. We drove home and hit the slopes the next day for a little boarding before home and hit the slopes the next day for a little boarding before going back to school. Happy times. going back to school. Happy times.

Now I'm back in school and it’s not so bad. I get to do Now I'm back in school and it’s not so bad. I get to do outdoor activities sometimes and even went to a conference in outdoor activities sometimes and even went to a conference in Calgary where I proceeded to freeze and drink copious amounts Calgary where I proceeded to freeze and drink copious amounts of alcohol. I’ve got some climbing in on the weekends in Squam- of alcohol. I’ve got some climbing in on the weekends in Squam- ish, which was exciting for Vancouver in January. Nice dry rock. ish, which was exciting for Vancouver in January. Nice dry rock. Heading off to Hawaii for my spring break to go and play in the Heading off to Hawaii for my spring break to go and play in the lava, volcanoes and surf. Yippee. lava, volcanoes and surf. Yippee.

Participants: Participants: Yana Preston Sarah Goldin Yana Preston Sarah Goldin Sara Price Kelly Franz Sara Price Kelly Franz Ken Glover Mark Huscroft Ken Glover Mark Huscroft Matt Buckle Jean The French Matt Buckle Jean The French Ivon The French (no relation to Jean) Ivon The French (no relation to Jean) Vlad The Russian Arlin Kalinchuk Vlad The Russian Arlin Kalinchuk And others… And others…

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 53 53

Synchro-Slurpee Synchro-Slurpee Fern Webb Fern Webb

Shout-out to Dru for inspiring the title Shout-out to Dru for inspiring the title

Three weeks into February and there is still ice Three weeks into February and there is still ice around?...unheard of on the "wet coast". I thought usually the lo- around?...unheard of on the "wet coast". I thought usually the local ice-climbing season was limited to one or two miserable week- cal ice-climbing season was limited to one or two miserable weekends in January teetering next to a raging torrent trying to tie off a ends in January teetering next to a raging torrent trying to tie off a stubby. But what do I know? ... this is only my 13th day ice- stubby. But what do I know? ... this is only my 13th day ice- climbing. Lucky day! climbing. Lucky day!

Joining me is Ireland's foremost ice-climber and master of Joining me is Ireland's foremost ice-climber and master of thee extreeem Conor Reynolds...OK so maybe I go too far... but thee extreeem Conor Reynolds...OK so maybe I go too far... but how many other Irish ice-climbers can you name?...the fact that how many other Irish ice-climbers can you name?...the fact that he owns his own tools has gotta put him on the list somewhere. he owns his own tools has gotta put him on the list somewhere. Also along are John Millar and Mike Spagnut, off to do their own Also along are John Millar and Mike Spagnut, off to do their own way-out-there climbing thing. way-out-there climbing thing.

I love long routes you can see from the road. I don't care I love long routes you can see from the road. I don't care what kind of climbing it is, it's just cool to be able to check out what kind of climbing it is, it's just cool to be able to check out the whole line while you drink the morning coffee with the heater the whole line while you drink the morning coffee with the heater blasting and psyche-up tunes playing. Synchronicity is perfect. blasting and psyche-up tunes playing. Synchronicity is perfect. You drive around a corner and start dropping down a steep hill You drive around a corner and start dropping down a steep hill and bam, there it is right ahead of you across the canyon. Look and bam, there it is right ahead of you across the canyon. Look down and you can see the easy approach gully climbing right out down and you can see the easy approach gully climbing right out of the creek bed. Look up and there's the top crux pitches creep- of the creek bed. Look up and there's the top crux pitches creep- ing up into the trees of the canyon rim. 600m long, 6 pitches of ing up into the trees of the canyon rim. 600m long, 6 pitches of WI 3-4, what fun! WI 3-4, what fun!

The thing with "moderate classics" is that you more often The thing with "moderate classics" is that you more often encounter the company of strangers than solitude. And sure encounter the company of strangers than solitude. And sure enough there's another car parked at the pullout with two guys enough there's another car parked at the pullout with two guys gearing up. They catch sight of us and bolt off up the creek bed. I gearing up. They catch sight of us and bolt off up the creek bed. I guess they didn't hear about the log jam that lets you hike up the guess they didn't hear about the log jam that lets you hike up the road and cross the creek right at the base of the climb thereby road and cross the creek right at the base of the climb thereby avoiding 3 kilometres of bushwhacking and snow-covered boul- avoiding 3 kilometres of bushwhacking and snow-covered boul-

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 54 54 der fields...tee-hee. We aren't in a big hurry though. If they get der fields...tee-hee. We aren't in a big hurry though. If they get there first they, get there first, no big deal. If we climb faster, we there first they, get there first, no big deal. If we climb faster, we pass them, if they climb faster we just let them get far enough pass them, if they climb faster we just let them get far enough ahead to not bother us...(shyeah right...it almost never works out ahead to not bother us...(shyeah right...it almost never works out that way). that way).

So we wander up the road and hook up with John and So we wander up the road and hook up with John and Spagnut who are headed up to do a variation, "The Synchotron", Spagnut who are headed up to do a variation, "The Synchotron", a climb provided with the oh-so-helpful guide book description a climb provided with the oh-so-helpful guide book description "possibly unclimbed, Grade 5???". A friend of John's had climbed "possibly unclimbed, Grade 5???". A friend of John's had climbed it before, but since the last published guidebook update was 4 it before, but since the last published guidebook update was 4 years ago current info is a little scarce. Dropping down the steep years ago current info is a little scarce. Dropping down the steep slopes off the road to reach the creek is casual, but the log jam slopes off the road to reach the creek is casual, but the log jam crossing looks a little sketchy. One partially submerged frozen log crossing looks a little sketchy. One partially submerged frozen log which almost reaches a big boulder. Someone has conscientiously which almost reaches a big boulder. Someone has conscientiously strung some webbing overhead as a handrail, but said altruist strung some webbing overhead as a handrail, but said altruist must have been about 7 feet tall if they could actually reach the must have been about 7 feet tall if they could actually reach the cord. I'm not keen on a trapeze act followed by a boulder prob- cord. I'm not keen on a trapeze act followed by a boulder problem in crampons above a fast flowing deep freezing water chan- lem in crampons above a fast flowing deep freezing water channel. Luckily just upstream is an ice-bridge so while Spagnut nego- nel. Luckily just upstream is an ice-bridge so while Spagnut nego- tiates the log etc. I just step across...tee hee. Hooray! the creek tiates the log etc. I just step across...tee hee. Hooray! the creek crossing was the only part of the climb that I was worried about. crossing was the only part of the climb that I was worried about.

I can see how the "300m of easy approach ice" would be a I can see how the "300m of easy approach ice" would be a lot of fun ... if it were actually ice. Maybe because the season is lot of fun ... if it were actually ice. Maybe because the season is nearly ended, or maybe because the ice never formed, we are nearly ended, or maybe because the ice never formed, we are treated to steep dirt and snow-covered rock. It's not terrible, but treated to steep dirt and snow-covered rock. It's not terrible, but it's not "special" either. Near the top I can hear that the others it's not "special" either. Near the top I can hear that the others have caught up to the speedy bushwhackers. I, of course, am a have caught up to the speedy bushwhackers. I, of course, am a ways behind them because I am slow. I can tell when somebody ways behind them because I am slow. I can tell when somebody starts climbing the first pitch above, because the gully I'm scram- starts climbing the first pitch above, because the gully I'm scrambling up morphs into a bit of an alpine bowling alley, forcing me bling up morphs into a bit of an alpine bowling alley, forcing me to scoot over into the trees on the side. to scoot over into the trees on the side.

At the first WI3 pitch John and Mike have already headed At the first WI3 pitch John and Mike have already headed up, soloing together up the broad stepped curtain. Conor is flak- up, soloing together up the broad stepped curtain. Conor is flak- ing our rope off to one side and the bushwhackers (they have ing our rope off to one side and the bushwhackers (they have names, but I'll call them Mump and Smoot) are starting to climb, names, but I'll call them Mump and Smoot) are starting to climb,

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 55 55 inexplicably belaying right in the fall line of ice that J and M are inexplicably belaying right in the fall line of ice that J and M are knocking down ( ! ). These guys don't strike me as the sharpest knocking down ( ! ). These guys don't strike me as the sharpest crayolas in the box. Mump gets about 3 moves up and one cram- crayolas in the box. Mump gets about 3 moves up and one crampon falls off ( ! ). He backs down sketchylike and we chat and pon falls off ( ! ). He backs down sketchylike and we chat and share cookies with them a bit to suss out their plan. They are share cookies with them a bit to suss out their plan. They are happy to let us head off first, since this is Smoot's first time ever happy to let us head off first, since this is Smoot's first time ever ice-climbing ( ! ). I don't want to come off as a gear snob...but I ice-climbing ( ! ). I don't want to come off as a gear snob...but I do think that there is good gear for whatever job and not-so-good do think that there is good gear for whatever job and not-so-good gear for it. Smoot is wearing the strangest get-up on his gear for it. Smoot is wearing the strangest get-up on his legs...snowboarding pants hitched up and duct-taped around his legs...snowboarding pants hitched up and duct-taped around his calves ( ? ). Also both of them are wearing borrowed boots which calves ( ? ). Also both of them are wearing borrowed boots which don't fit ( ! ). don't fit ( ! ).

Since John and Mike are still above us cheerfully knocking Since John and Mike are still above us cheerfully knocking down bits of ice I am perfectly happy to wait and cower a bit and down bits of ice I am perfectly happy to wait and cower a bit and let Mump lead up first...we can pass them at the next belay. In the let Mump lead up first...we can pass them at the next belay. In the meantime I valiantly agree to lead the first pitch, reasoning that if meantime I valiantly agree to lead the first pitch, reasoning that if I freak out higher up (which I have been known to do) at least I I freak out higher up (which I have been known to do) at least I will have contributed something to the effort. Mump reaches the will have contributed something to the effort. Mump reaches the belay and I head up alongside his rope; Smoot will hang out for a belay and I head up alongside his rope; Smoot will hang out for a bit. Blah blah...the mechanics of straight-on ice climbing aren't bit. Blah blah...the mechanics of straight-on ice climbing aren't very interesting. Whack kick kick whack kick kick kick whack very interesting. Whack kick kick whack kick kick kick whack whack kick kick pause screw screw screw screw clip pause whack whack kick kick pause screw screw screw screw clip pause whack whack kick kick etc... nothing all that thrilling except for catching whack kick kick etc... nothing all that thrilling except for catching a baseball sized chunk from above on the chin. It wasn't going all a baseball sized chunk from above on the chin. It wasn't going all that fast but it drew blood nonetheless....owwwww. I crawl up that fast but it drew blood nonetheless....owwwww. I crawl up into a happy big tree and belay Conor up and past Mump. Hooray into a happy big tree and belay Conor up and past Mump. Hooray we're in the lead! We simul-solo up the barely-even-WI2 pitch to we're in the lead! We simul-solo up the barely-even-WI2 pitch to the base of the next sunny curtain. the base of the next sunny curtain.

This pitch is looking a little sad, obviously it's been baking This pitch is looking a little sad, obviously it's been baking in the sun for a couple of weeks. Still one corner of it is tucked a in the sun for a couple of weeks. Still one corner of it is tucked a bit into the shade of a rock outcrop and is mostly solid, so Conor bit into the shade of a rock outcrop and is mostly solid, so Conor leads onward and I follow. It is stinkin' hot with the sun shining leads onward and I follow. It is stinkin' hot with the sun shining on our backs. The next pitch leads off a beautiful grassy sun-tan on our backs. The next pitch leads off a beautiful grassy sun-tan ledge but it is not looking any happier than the previous, and it's ledge but it is not looking any happier than the previous, and it's steeper to boot. I'm sure not going to lead it but, after a brief steeper to boot. I'm sure not going to lead it but, after a brief snack and divestment of extra clothing, Conor is game. Up he snack and divestment of extra clothing, Conor is game. Up he

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 56 56 not freaking out yet – Fern on Synchronicity not freaking out yet – Fern on Synchronicity Photo: Conor Reynolds Photo: Conor Reynolds

goes and, as I'm belaying, down comes a steady rain of bits and goes and, as I'm belaying, down comes a steady rain of bits and pieces of ice and snow. A few pretty big pieces whiz by and nearly pieces of ice and snow. A few pretty big pieces whiz by and nearly take out Mump and Smoot who have by now caught up and are take out Mump and Smoot who have by now caught up and are standing in the fall line (again). Normally Conor doesn't knock a standing in the fall line (again). Normally Conor doesn't knock a lot down when he's climbing so I get a little suspicious, especially lot down when he's climbing so I get a little suspicious, especially when he calls down to belay me up after only going half a rope- when he calls down to belay me up after only going half a ropelength. length.

The ice is pretty manky, easy to climb but "challenging" to The ice is pretty manky, easy to climb but "challenging" to

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 57 57 protect. I approach Conor and he grins and points at some dark protect. I approach Conor and he grins and points at some dark patches in the ice curtain. "I've been watching those holes grow as patches in the ice curtain. "I've been watching those holes grow as I belay you up here"...eep! It's actually kind of hard to hear him I belay you up here"...eep! It's actually kind of hard to hear him above the sound of running water. I climb up next to him and ask above the sound of running water. I climb up next to him and ask which of the screws in his anchor is the best. He shuts his eyes which of the screws in his anchor is the best. He shuts his eyes and spins his finger like he's playing pin-the-tail-on-the-donkey and spins his finger like he's playing pin-the-tail-on-the-donkey and points ... I clip-in to the two closest and stand very very still. and points ... I clip-in to the two closest and stand very very still. He isn't keen to lead any further, since it turns out the ice that was He isn't keen to lead any further, since it turns out the ice that was falling on Mump and Smoot was actually coming from above falling on Mump and Smoot was actually coming from above Conor. So we will go down. Finding good ice for a couple of Conor. So we will go down. Finding good ice for a couple of abalakovs takes some time, but we manage a serviceable rap an- abalakovs takes some time, but we manage a serviceable rap anchor and drop back down to the sun-tan ledge. chor and drop back down to the sun-tan ledge.

John and Mike have finished with the Synchotron and John and Mike have finished with the Synchotron and rapped back to the same ledge. The afternoon is young so they rapped back to the same ledge. The afternoon is young so they decide to head up that off which we have just backed. Mump and decide to head up that off which we have just backed. Mump and Smoot are milling about indecisively but decide they will head up Smoot are milling about indecisively but decide they will head up to our rap anchor and call it a day. John talks Conor and me into to our rap anchor and call it a day. John talks Conor and me into heading up too, following Mike and himself. Enthusiasm in infec- heading up too, following Mike and himself. Enthusiasm in infec- tious. Hooray for ropeguns! The sun has fallen a bit in the sky by tious. Hooray for ropeguns! The sun has fallen a bit in the sky by now and not nearly so much junk is falling off, but I still feel a bit now and not nearly so much junk is falling off, but I still feel a bit like I'm crawling up the spout of the 7-11 slurpee machine. like I'm crawling up the spout of the 7-11 slurpee machine.

It's hard to describe how beautiful the top pitch is. Tucked It's hard to describe how beautiful the top pitch is. Tucked in a grove of big firs, high off the ground, the late afternoon sun in a grove of big firs, high off the ground, the late afternoon sun shining beams through the branches, waves of blue twisting and shining beams through the branches, waves of blue twisting and crashing down from a gash in the trees above. So pretty I didn't crashing down from a gash in the trees above. So pretty I didn't want to climb it then. It was the sort of pitch that looks exactly want to climb it then. It was the sort of pitch that looks exactly what I imagined ice-climbing would be when I decided I wanted what I imagined ice-climbing would be when I decided I wanted to try it, the sort of pitch that I don't want just to get dragged up to try it, the sort of pitch that I don't want just to get dragged up by a ropegun. It's the sort of pitch that deserves to be climbed in by a ropegun. It's the sort of pitch that deserves to be climbed in style with enough time left in the day to just sit at the top and style with enough time left in the day to just sit at the top and look at the world. Dru says "if you didn't climb the crux you did- look at the world. Dru says "if you didn't climb the crux you did- n't climb the route", but I don't care. I'll climb it next year, or the n't climb the route", but I don't care. I'll climb it next year, or the year after, the mountains aren't going anywhere soon and I can year after, the mountains aren't going anywhere soon and I can come back come back

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 58 58

Victims of the African Sun Victims of the African Sun Jen Wild Jen Wild

By the time Dan Perrakis arrived in South Africa I was By the time Dan Perrakis arrived in South Africa I was positively itching to do some rock climbing. I had been in Africa positively itching to do some rock climbing. I had been in Africa for two and a half months already but had yet to bind my feet in for two and a half months already but had yet to bind my feet in climbing shoes. Dan flew into Capetown, a beautiful city on the climbing shoes. Dan flew into Capetown, a beautiful city on the south west coast of South Africa. In 1580 Sir Francis Drake pro- south west coast of South Africa. In 1580 Sir Francis Drake pro- claimed Capetown to be "The fairest cape in all the world". The claimed Capetown to be "The fairest cape in all the world". The most distinguishing feature of the city is the large plateau-like most distinguishing feature of the city is the large plateau-like mountain planted squarely in its middle. This is the legendary Ta- mountain planted squarely in its middle. This is the legendary Ta- ble Mountain, and on Dan's third day on African soil, January ble Mountain, and on Dan's third day on African soil, January 20th'00, we decided that it was time to climb the Table. 20th'00, we decided that it was time to climb the Table.

Our timing was not exactly superb. For the last few days Our timing was not exactly superb. For the last few days Capetown had been recording record high temperatures. In fact, Capetown had been recording record high temperatures. In fact, we were not even sure if we would be allowed to access the we were not even sure if we would be allowed to access the mountain due to wildfires burning in some parts of the surround- mountain due to wildfires burning in some parts of the surrounding vegetation. Yes, during our stay in Capetown Dan and I were ing vegetation. Yes, during our stay in Capetown Dan and I were sadly privileged to witness a phenomenon that most South Afri- sadly privileged to witness a phenomenon that most South Afri- cans have never seen...a red sun glowing brightly over the hazy cans have never seen...a red sun glowing brightly over the hazy form of Table Mountain, so hazy from the smoke that in fact it form of Table Mountain, so hazy from the smoke that in fact it wasn't really discernible to the naked eye. The Table was com- wasn't really discernible to the naked eye. The Table was completely cloaked in a blanket of smoke. These wildfires were an pletely cloaked in a blanket of smoke. These wildfires were an ecological disaster of large scale magnitude. The fynbos pro- ecological disaster of large scale magnitude. The fynbos pronounced faynbos) ecosystem of South Africa is one of the most nounced faynbos) ecosystem of South Africa is one of the most diverse ecosystems in the world. This shrubby, dry vegetation is diverse ecosystems in the world. This shrubby, dry vegetation is predominant in the Cape peninsula and is adapted to low intensity predominant in the Cape peninsula and is adapted to low intensity surface fires. Unfortunately the introduction of strongly burning surface fires. Unfortunately the introduction of strongly burning exotic trees, mainly pines and eucalyptus, increased the fuel load exotic trees, mainly pines and eucalyptus, increased the fuel load and the intensity of the fires was catastrophic for the fynbos vege- and the intensity of the fires was catastrophic for the fynbos vegetation. tation.

But on this bright and sunny day our youthful enthusiasm But on this bright and sunny day our youthful enthusiasm and eagerness to climb overrode our concerns about the burning and eagerness to climb overrode our concerns about the burning landscape. So off we went, beginning our approach near the bot- landscape. So off we went, beginning our approach near the bottom of the gondola, which slowly spins it's way up Table Moun- tom of the gondola, which slowly spins it's way up Table Moun-

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 59 59 tain. Our approach took us half way up the India-Venster trail, tain. Our approach took us half way up the India-Venster trail, which is one of the most gruelling trails on the mountain. We be- which is one of the most gruelling trails on the mountain. We began with a spring in our step, anticipating the coming climb, with gan with a spring in our step, anticipating the coming climb, with a litre of water in each of our packs. But soon we were gulping a litre of water in each of our packs. But soon we were gulping down our water at a tremendous rate and crawling into every bit down our water at a tremendous rate and crawling into every bit of shade we could find. At one point Dan checked the tempera- of shade we could find. At one point Dan checked the temperature on his watch and read 43.6°C. Ah, we were roasting! Rivu- ture on his watch and read 43.6°C. Ah, we were roasting! Rivu- lets of sweat were coursing down our bodies and with each sip of lets of sweat were coursing down our bodies and with each sip of water it felt like the water was running right back out our pores! water it felt like the water was running right back out our pores!

Eventually, with parched lips and throats, our water supply Eventually, with parched lips and throats, our water supply gone, we made it to the base of Africa Wall and the start of our gone, we made it to the base of Africa Wall and the start of our climb. Excellent! The first pitch of the route we planned to do, climb. Excellent! The first pitch of the route we planned to do, Africa Crag, led us up to a shady ledge. At this point I could feel Africa Crag, led us up to a shady ledge. At this point I could feel my motivation lagging as I dropped limply onto the ledge. It was my motivation lagging as I dropped limply onto the ledge. It was about 1 PM...the perfect time to siesta, right? And our route of about 1 PM...the perfect time to siesta, right? And our route of choice looked nastily exposed and scary for the ~5.6 it was sup- choice looked nastily exposed and scary for the ~5.6 it was supposed to be, and in full sunlight. Arghh! A mutiny was at hand posed to be, and in full sunlight. Arghh! A mutiny was at hand but it was happily avoided by our decision to try another route, but it was happily avoided by our decision to try another route, also leading up from the ledge, that looked like it would be shady also leading up from the ledge, that looked like it would be shady all day. Fantastic! This was what I wanted to hear and even with all day. Fantastic! This was what I wanted to hear and even with our lack of water to hinder us I was enthusiastic to do the climb. our lack of water to hinder us I was enthusiastic to do the climb.

The climb we completed was called Africa Corner, 6 The climb we completed was called Africa Corner, 6 pitches, and was graded a South African 13, which is equivalent to pitches, and was graded a South African 13, which is equivalent to 5.6/5.7 (although it felt more like a 5.9!). From the ledge we 5.6/5.7 (although it felt more like a 5.9!). From the ledge we scrambled up a short third class pitch, through a chimney, and scrambled up a short third class pitch, through a chimney, and along a narrow ledge to our new belay stance. It was extremely along a narrow ledge to our new belay stance. It was extremely beautiful...and exposed. Yikes! But Dan led this pitch and it beautiful...and exposed. Yikes! But Dan led this pitch and it proved to be painless and enjoyable. There were even rap bolts at proved to be painless and enjoyable. There were even rap bolts at this belay point, the only ones we saw in Africa. The fourth pitch this belay point, the only ones we saw in Africa. The fourth pitch was the crux of the route...more exposed, more burly, with poorer was the crux of the route...more exposed, more burly, with poorer protection than previous pitches. It was at this point that my protection than previous pitches. It was at this point that my grumpiness reached its high for the day, for I was feeling weak grumpiness reached its high for the day, for I was feeling weak and feeble due to six months of no climbing plus dehydration. and feeble due to six months of no climbing plus dehydration. But I finally managed to drag my shrivelling corpse to the next But I finally managed to drag my shrivelling corpse to the next belay station and on we went. belay station and on we went.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 60 60 Dan also led the fifth pitch, which was pleasant, and by this Dan also led the fifth pitch, which was pleasant, and by this time the temperature was decreasing a bit and I was feeling more time the temperature was decreasing a bit and I was feeling more adventuresome (or perhaps just slightly deranged from lack of wa- adventuresome (or perhaps just slightly deranged from lack of water) so I decided to lead the next pitch...and it was no problem. ter) so I decided to lead the next pitch...and it was no problem. Fantastic! It was an easy slabby scramble (~5.4) up to the top of Fantastic! It was an easy slabby scramble (~5.4) up to the top of the mountain for an amazing view and a creative belay station. I the mountain for an amazing view and a creative belay station. I ended up anchoring myself to the support tower of the gondola. ended up anchoring myself to the support tower of the gondola. It was by far the most secure thing in the area. The amusing part It was by far the most secure thing in the area. The amusing part was that as I set up the anchor and belayed Dan, the gondola con- was that as I set up the anchor and belayed Dan, the gondola continued to shuttle people up and own the mountain. The people tinued to shuttle people up and own the mountain. The people inside the gondola were not more than 20 metres away from me, inside the gondola were not more than 20 metres away from me, yet not a one noticed me on my strange perch. yet not a one noticed me on my strange perch.

By the time Dan reached the top we were both completely By the time Dan reached the top we were both completely weak and light headed, desperate with thirst and made a mad dash weak and light headed, desperate with thirst and made a mad dash for the bar inside the gondola station. This was one instance for the bar inside the gondola station. This was one instance where I was thankful that tourism had left its mark! We guzzled where I was thankful that tourism had left its mark! We guzzled down exorbitantly priced glasses of juice. Ahh, relief! It really is a down exorbitantly priced glasses of juice. Ahh, relief! It really is a very wise business manoeuvre. The bottled water was very ex- very wise business manoeuvre. The bottled water was very expensive as well, but I'm sure that many a poor dehydrated tourist pensive as well, but I'm sure that many a poor dehydrated tourist is thankful to fork out the cash! is thankful to fork out the cash!

At this point it was around 6 PM and we were almost ready At this point it was around 6 PM and we were almost ready to pay for the gondola ride down...but we had left gear at the bot- to pay for the gondola ride down...but we had left gear at the bottom of the climb so we began the hour and a half trek back down tom of the climb so we began the hour and a half trek back down the mountain. It was now significantly cooler and the haze of the mountain. It was now significantly cooler and the haze of smoke had lifted a bit giving us a lovely view of the city. We smoke had lifted a bit giving us a lovely view of the city. We made it down to the car park just as night was about to fall, happy made it down to the car park just as night was about to fall, happy and satisfied with our achievement, and in true VOC and satisfied with our achievement, and in true VOC style managed to scam an excellent lift to the train station with a style managed to scam an excellent lift to the train station with a family of British tourists. family of British tourists.

A few days later Dan and I discovered that we had acquired A few days later Dan and I discovered that we had acquired a legacy from our adventure on Table Mountain. We each had a legacy from our adventure on Table Mountain. We each had two large matching burn marks, Dan on the back of his right leg two large matching burn marks, Dan on the back of his right leg and I on my left. After a few days these marks began to bubble and I on my left. After a few days these marks began to bubble and fester madly, looking like we had both squeezed a curling iron and fester madly, looking like we had both squeezed a curling iron behind our knees...ouch! The only cause that we could surmise behind our knees...ouch! The only cause that we could surmise

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 61 61 was that we had sat down, next to each other, on top of a plant was that we had sat down, next to each other, on top of a plant called 'blister bush'. You can't feel the effects of the plant right called 'blister bush'. You can't feel the effects of the plant right away but after some time in the sun it comes to life. Now, a away but after some time in the sun it comes to life. Now, a month and a half after the incident, I can still see the mark, a sub- month and a half after the incident, I can still see the mark, a subtle reminder. We were not permitted to leave the Table unscathed tle reminder. We were not permitted to leave the Table unscathed after all! after all!

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 62 62

The Irony of Ice: The Irony of Ice: Eight Days on West Coast Classics Eight Days on West Coast Classics Conor Reynolds Conor Reynolds

You begin to question the sanity of the game when you You begin to question the sanity of the game when you first get the Screaming Barfies. For those of you who have not first get the Screaming Barfies. For those of you who have not experienced this sensation, let me explain. First your hands get so experienced this sensation, let me explain. First your hands get so cold that there is no feeling in them. You can climb for a long cold that there is no feeling in them. You can climb for a long time like this without much discomfort, although it is difficult to time like this without much discomfort, although it is difficult to place screws with wooden fingers. The nastiness begins when place screws with wooden fingers. The nastiness begins when your body decides to rescue you from certain frostbite and tries to your body decides to rescue you from certain frostbite and tries to push hot blood through those frozen veins. In Ireland we just push hot blood through those frozen veins. In Ireland we just called it the ‘reheats’, but that tells you nothing of the aching- called it the ‘reheats’, but that tells you nothing of the aching- burning-throbbing-want-to-curl-up-in-a-little-ball-and-hide-from- burning-throbbing-want-to-curl-up-in-a-little-ball-and-hide-from- this-world-of-pain-and-maybe-I-should-cry-but-that-wouldn’t- this-world-of-pain-and-maybe-I-should-cry-but-that-wouldn’t- make-it-better-and-I’m-definitely-going-to-pass-out-now-wow- make-it-better-and-I’m-definitely-going-to-pass-out-now-wow- tunnel-vision … You can see that the term is pretty descriptive. tunnel-vision … You can see that the term is pretty descriptive. Pretty soon your hands are glowing and the pain is forgotten. Pretty soon your hands are glowing and the pain is forgotten. Funny that. Funny that.

So where was I? Ah yes, the issue of sanity or ‘soundness So where was I? Ah yes, the issue of sanity or ‘soundness of health and mind’. What’s the story with strapping razor-sharp of health and mind’. What’s the story with strapping razor-sharp implements to hands and feet and then strapping yourself to the implements to hands and feet and then strapping yourself to the sharp end of a rope? All this takes place on an ephemeral sharp end of a rope? All this takes place on an ephemeral (JollyJohn likes that word) petrified water seepage that tends to (JollyJohn likes that word) petrified water seepage that tends to shed missile-like chunks with every knuckle-bruising axe-blow. I shed missile-like chunks with every knuckle-bruising axe-blow. I don’t want to put anyone off here, but it does seem a bit silly don’t want to put anyone off here, but it does seem a bit silly when you put it like that. OK, I’ll get to the point. I LOVE IT! when you put it like that. OK, I’ll get to the point. I LOVE IT! And it doesn’t make a whole lot of sense - and there, you see, lies And it doesn’t make a whole lot of sense - and there, you see, lies the irony. Ice climbing is such a thrill, a different feeling to any the irony. Ice climbing is such a thrill, a different feeling to any rock-climbing I’ve done. Maybe it is knowing that this piece of rock-climbing I’ve done. Maybe it is knowing that this piece of ice will never be quite the same as this moment, and possible ice will never be quite the same as this moment, and possible won’t even be climbable again for years. It could be the situation, won’t even be climbable again for years. It could be the situation, the views, the people you are with, the absence of crowds… Oth- the views, the people you are with, the absence of crowds… Oth- ers have been more successful with justification so I’ll leave it at ers have been more successful with justification so I’ll leave it at that. What I will try to do, however, is try and give an idea of that. What I will try to do, however, is try and give an idea of what some of these days on West Coast ice have been like. Re- what some of these days on West Coast ice have been like. Re-

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 63 63 member, it rarely drops below freezing for long in Ireland, so you member, it rarely drops below freezing for long in Ireland, so you can imagine what a treat these cold weekend trips have been for can imagine what a treat these cold weekend trips have been for me… me…

Saturday 22 January 2000 Saturday 22 January 2000

In Birkenhead Valley we found ‘The Plum’ in fine shape, In Birkenhead Valley we found ‘The Plum’ in fine shape, so John M., Jeff M., Greg B. and I made our way up through trees so John M., Jeff M., Greg B. and I made our way up through trees and then a streambed of unpleasantly unconsolidated snow. John and then a streambed of unpleasantly unconsolidated snow. John battled his way up a deceptively difficult first pitch and I battled battled his way up a deceptively difficult first pitch and I battled with the first screaming barfies of the season as I followed him. I with the first screaming barfies of the season as I followed him. I laid claim to the second pitch. It turned out to be the pick of the laid claim to the second pitch. It turned out to be the pick of the bunch that day… about fifty meters of steep, quality ice and a real bunch that day… about fifty meters of steep, quality ice and a real challenge. You can ask the others how long that pitch took! An- challenge. You can ask the others how long that pitch took! An- other pitch of snow-covered scrambling for John and much waist- other pitch of snow-covered scrambling for John and much waist- deep heart-breaking fluff-tunnelling brought us to the top section. deep heart-breaking fluff-tunnelling brought us to the top section. This is the plum of The Plum, I believe, but we could see very lit- This is the plum of The Plum, I believe, but we could see very little. Late hour + night-time + long descent = turn-around; John tle. Late hour + night-time + long descent = turn-around; John reluctantly agreed. We met the others a couple of hours later at reluctantly agreed. We met the others a couple of hours later at the trucks, Greg and Jeff having rapped off earlier. Fern W. and the trucks, Greg and Jeff having rapped off earlier. Fern W. and Drew B. had spent the day on ‘The Mild Thing’, somewhere up a Drew B. had spent the day on ‘The Mild Thing’, somewhere up a debris choked canyon on the other side of the valley. We hung debris choked canyon on the other side of the valley. We hung out for the evening in a laundromat as all our gear dried, cooked out for the evening in a laundromat as all our gear dried, cooked some food and then drove towards Lillooet. some food and then drove towards Lillooet.

Sunday 23 January 2000 Sunday 23 January 2000

Just below ‘Capricorn’ in the Bridge River Valley were two Just below ‘Capricorn’ in the Bridge River Valley were two interesting pillars of ice, so John and I went to have a look. Jeff interesting pillars of ice, so John and I went to have a look. Jeff and Greg drove down the road to ‘Salmon Stakes’ and Fern and and Greg drove down the road to ‘Salmon Stakes’ and Fern and Drew went to climb ‘Spray Creek Falls’. Don ‘Guru of West Drew went to climb ‘Spray Creek Falls’. Don ‘Guru of West Coast Ice’ Serl – who we had met earlier below ‘Old Dogs, New Coast Ice’ Serl – who we had met earlier below ‘Old Dogs, New Picks’ – directed us to the left column, as he believed it hadn’t Picks’ – directed us to the left column, as he believed it hadn’t formed fully before. Rope-gun John took a look and decided that formed fully before. Rope-gun John took a look and decided that the ice was better there anyway, so off he went. Steep, Difficult. the ice was better there anyway, so off he went. Steep, Difficult. He made short work of it; I got a tight rope and more SBs. Nice He made short work of it; I got a tight rope and more SBs. Nice line! A piece of old sling around a tree at the top meant that line! A piece of old sling around a tree at the top meant that someone else had got there first though. someone else had got there first though.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 64 64

Sunday 6 February 2000 Sunday 6 February 2000

After a night in Squamish and an early start, Mark H., Kelly After a night in Squamish and an early start, Mark H., Kelly F. and I reached ‘The Rambles’. Neither of the other two had F. and I reached ‘The Rambles’. Neither of the other two had ever swung an axe in anger before, so we spent a bit of time kick- ever swung an axe in anger before, so we spent a bit of time kicking and hacking. We made a little v-thread anchor and tried to ing and hacking. We made a little v-thread anchor and tried to shatter it by tying on to a rope and leaping downhill to shock load shatter it by tying on to a rope and leaping downhill to shock load it. A confidence-booster – it wouldn’t break! It was a warm day it. A confidence-booster – it wouldn’t break! It was a warm day with lots of fun ice… we bopped back to Vangroovy to the sound with lots of fun ice… we bopped back to Vangroovy to the sound of the Chemical Brothers and Propellorheads. of the Chemical Brothers and Propellorheads.

Saturday 12 February 2000 Saturday 12 February 2000

Four in a truck built for two means that a couple of climb- Four in a truck built for two means that a couple of climbers are packed in the back with the gear. It’s comfy enough with ers are packed in the back with the gear. It’s comfy enough with sleeping mats and down bags though, and that truck has lots of sleeping mats and down bags though, and that truck has lots of character. No tape player though! John M. and Ben W. went to character. No tape player though! John M. and Ben W. went to get intimate with Loose Lady, while Guy E. and I followed cougar get intimate with Loose Lady, while Guy E. and I followed cougar tracks up a narrow valley on the other side of the road – big cats tracks up a narrow valley on the other side of the road – big cats are cool. Guy had glimpsed a possible line as we were scanning are cool. Guy had glimpsed a possible line as we were scanning from the road that morning, and a couple of hours of walking from the road that morning, and a couple of hours of walking brought us to the start of the ice. brought us to the start of the ice.

Two easy pitches led us to the gem, a chandeliered thirty- Two easy pitches led us to the gem, a chandeliered thirty- meter pillar with blow-your-mind exposure. Needless to say Guy meter pillar with blow-your-mind exposure. Needless to say Guy led that one, and most of the others! The climbing continued - led that one, and most of the others! The climbing continued - pitch after difficult pitch - as the light failed, and was followed by pitch after difficult pitch - as the light failed, and was followed by a long headlamp rappel. The route is a seven-pitch beauty that has a long headlamp rappel. The route is a seven-pitch beauty that has no mention in the guide, but again some old sling at the top was no mention in the guide, but again some old sling at the top was evidence of at least one other ascent. (It seems likely that this climb is evidence of at least one other ascent. (It seems likely that this climb is Red Wall Wanderer, described in the Coast Ice Update, CAJ 1996 or Red Wall Wanderer, described in the Coast Ice Update, CAJ 1996 or Rock and Ice #90 ed.) Exhausted and pretty dehydrated, we made it Rock and Ice #90 ed.) Exhausted and pretty dehydrated, we made it back to the truck at 1 AM for a dinner of bagels and sardines and back to the truck at 1 AM for a dinner of bagels and sardines and chips and cheese. And sleep, of course: aren’t down sleeping bags chips and cheese. And sleep, of course: aren’t down sleeping bags great? great?

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 65 65 Sunday 13 February 2000 Sunday 13 February 2000

Crack of noon start! Actually, I don’t think it was that bad, Crack of noon start! Actually, I don’t think it was that bad, but we did lie in the sun until it disappeared. Meanwhile John but we did lie in the sun until it disappeared. Meanwhile John picked his way up ‘Carl’s Berg’ in one 60-meter pitch and set up a picked his way up ‘Carl’s Berg’ in one 60-meter pitch and set up a top-rope for the rest of us. Ben chose to climb axe-less for some top-rope for the rest of us. Ben chose to climb axe-less for some of the more featured sections – nice style! of the more featured sections – nice style!

Saturday 19 February 2000 Saturday 19 February 2000

‘Synchronicity’ is a long classic that gets a lot of sun. I ‘Synchronicity’ is a long classic that gets a lot of sun. I climbed with Fern W. until open water put us off and we made a climbed with Fern W. until open water put us off and we made a v-thread, (more commonly known as an abackeroffer). Luckily v-thread, (more commonly known as an abackeroffer). Luckily JollyJohn and Mike S. had finished their adventure on JollyJohn and Mike S. had finished their adventure on ‘Synchotron’ at that stage. (According to a reliable source it con- ‘Synchotron’ at that stage. (According to a reliable source it consisted of a lot of “…hold that pose John… no, stem your leg out sisted of a lot of “…hold that pose John… no, stem your leg out more to the left… that’s it…” CLICK!). They were gunning for more to the left… that’s it…” CLICK!). They were gunning for more, so we cheerfully accepted ropes over the wet section of more, so we cheerfully accepted ropes over the wet section of sketchiness. I was glad, because the top pitch was a cauliflowered sketchiness. I was glad, because the top pitch was a cauliflowered peach. (What is with all the fruit and veggies in ice climbing?) peach. (What is with all the fruit and veggies in ice climbing?)

Mike had to head home that evening but John, Fern and I Mike had to head home that evening but John, Fern and I hit the town. We cruised to Mugs ’n’ Jugs. Millar boogied in his hit the town. We cruised to Mugs ’n’ Jugs. Millar boogied in his mu-mu and I did laps of the car park on my unicycle. The locals mu-mu and I did laps of the car park on my unicycle. The locals ignored us. We ate jellies and drank hot chocolate as our gloves ignored us. We ate jellies and drank hot chocolate as our gloves steamed and melted by the fire. Don Serl and crew were at the steamed and melted by the fire. Don Serl and crew were at the next table and told tales of a secret valley just oozing with quality next table and told tales of a secret valley just oozing with quality ice, but they were letting nothing slip. The old dogs wanted to ice, but they were letting nothing slip. The old dogs wanted to bag all the first ascents, and that’s fair enough. Phair enough in- bag all the first ascents, and that’s fair enough. Phair enough indeed, as we found out on the fourth of March… deed, as we found out on the fourth of March…

Sunday 20 February 2000 Sunday 20 February 2000

To the Marble Canyon! ‘Icy BC’: “…a designer ice- To the Marble Canyon! ‘Icy BC’: “…a designer ice- climb… ice that simply demands to be climbed…” It sure looked climb… ice that simply demands to be climbed…” It sure looked good, but unfortunately there were loads of feckin’ eejits (Irish good, but unfortunately there were loads of feckin’ eejits (Irish derogatory term) top-roping it so John hopped on ‘The Deeping derogatory term) top-roping it so John hopped on ‘The Deeping Wall’ after deciding to leave a heinous bolted mixed line (No De- Wall’ after deciding to leave a heinous bolted mixed line (No De-

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 66 66 ductible) for another day. Fern and I had a great time seconding ductible) for another day. Fern and I had a great time seconding the demon. the demon.

Finally we were able to muscle in on that designer ice and Finally we were able to muscle in on that designer ice and

Conor Reynolds, the Flying Irishman on The Deeping Wall Photo: Fern Webb Conor Reynolds, the Flying Irishman on The Deeping Wall Photo: Fern Webb

I thwacked my way up the first pitch with a big grin on my face. I thwacked my way up the first pitch with a big grin on my face. On pitch two we again had to tangle with the loonies, however, On pitch two we again had to tangle with the loonies, however, who were now trying out their radio system while less than ten who were now trying out their radio system while less than ten meters apart on a beautiful day. Unstable people – it was our turn meters apart on a beautiful day. Unstable people – it was our turn to do the ignoring. John led the top pitch, which was very fea- to do the ignoring. John led the top pitch, which was very featured and looked like it hadn’t been climbed yet this year. tured and looked like it hadn’t been climbed yet this year.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 67 67 Sidebar: on Monday evening John began to fret that the ice sea- Sidebar: on Monday evening John began to fret that the ice season was finally drawing to a close. He drove back to the Marble son was finally drawing to a close. He drove back to the Marble Canyon that night, soloed Icy BC at first light, and was back at Canyon that night, soloed Icy BC at first light, and was back at UBC for his afternoon lab. UBC for his afternoon lab.

Saturday 4 March 2000 Saturday 4 March 2000

This trip was divided into two camps: those who wanted to This trip was divided into two camps: those who wanted to climb ice all weekend and those who wanted to climb ice all week- climb ice all weekend and those who wanted to climb ice all weekend but had to go home on Saturday evening. Unfortunately I end but had to go home on Saturday evening. Unfortunately I was among the latter. (While we are on this topic it is an interest- was among the latter. (While we are on this topic it is an interesting fact that this world is divided into two types of people: those ing fact that this world is divided into two types of people: those who believe that this world is divided into two types of people who believe that this world is divided into two types of people and those who know better). Anyway, Fern’s giant truck was and those who know better). Anyway, Fern’s giant truck was once again on the move, this time carrying Jeff, Marsha H. and I once again on the move, this time carrying Jeff, Marsha H. and I as passengers. We decided to camp at The Rambles. Using ice- as passengers. We decided to camp at The Rambles. Using ice- axes and a dash of inspiration, Jeff and I put up our tent on an axes and a dash of inspiration, Jeff and I put up our tent on an abandoned footbridge and slept the sleep of the just. We were abandoned footbridge and slept the sleep of the just. We were only woken briefly by Ken, Kelly, the Mu-Mu Man and his only woken briefly by Ken, Kelly, the Mu-Mu Man and his brother Hamish. They had been cruising the highways in brother Hamish. They had been cruising the highways in cramped style, in Ken’s low-slung two-door speedster. cramped style, in Ken’s low-slung two-door speedster.

On Saturday morning, accompanied by much messing and On Saturday morning, accompanied by much messing and general chaos, we made our way to Phair Valley. This was the se- general chaos, we made our way to Phair Valley. This was the secret destination, and the details had finally been released by the cret destination, and the details had finally been released by the seasoned hounds to the young pups. seasoned hounds to the young pups.

Some way along the logging road approach a vehicle had to Some way along the logging road approach a vehicle had to be abandoned (guess which!). So with eight people plus gear be abandoned (guess which!). So with eight people plus gear squeezed into Fern’s machine we battled landslides and grizzlies squeezed into Fern’s machine we battled landslides and grizzlies until… well, a locked gate finally stopped us, though Kelly did until… well, a locked gate finally stopped us, though Kelly did have other ideas. We bounded up the valley until we started to have other ideas. We bounded up the valley until we started to see ice, and there Fern, Jeff, Marsha and I decided to try ‘Phair see ice, and there Fern, Jeff, Marsha and I decided to try ‘Phair Game’. (Our cohorts continued along the logging road in search Game’. (Our cohorts continued along the logging road in search of some good starteroffer ice for the beginners in the group). Ac- of some good starteroffer ice for the beginners in the group). Ac- cess to Phair Game proved to be rather interesting. Admittedly cess to Phair Game proved to be rather interesting. Admittedly we went the wrong way, but vertical bushwhacking is no fun how- we went the wrong way, but vertical bushwhacking is no fun however it comes about. The ice looked golden though. Jeff led first ever it comes about. The ice looked golden though. Jeff led first

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 68 68 and Marsha seconded him, and then Fern and I climbed it in two and Marsha seconded him, and then Fern and I climbed it in two pitches. The sun shone, the ice was steep and chewy… and do pitches. The sun shone, the ice was steep and chewy… and do you notice how I haven’t mentioned the dreaded SBs for ages? you notice how I haven’t mentioned the dreaded SBs for ages? What more could you ask for without being greedy? What more could you ask for without being greedy?

After storming back down to the road we puzzled our way After storming back down to the road we puzzled our way on up the valley to ‘It’s Only Phair’. A nice bit of climbing left us on up the valley to ‘It’s Only Phair’. A nice bit of climbing left us with a dusk rappel. The sun even put on a bit of a show as she with a dusk rappel. The sun even put on a bit of a show as she disappeared. At ‘A Phairwell to Arms’ we met the others, and Jeff disappeared. At ‘A Phairwell to Arms’ we met the others, and Jeff and I scrambled up to take a look. Now there is a prize for an- and I scrambled up to take a look. Now there is a prize for another visit! John had led the longer first section and then the oth- other visit! John had led the longer first section and then the others had all top-roped it. ers had all top-roped it.

We walked out en masse and tried to spot shooting stars, We walked out en masse and tried to spot shooting stars, which is a dangerous game on a rough logging road. I saw one. which is a dangerous game on a rough logging road. I saw one. Does that mean that I am a lucky Irishman to be climbing in BC Does that mean that I am a lucky Irishman to be climbing in BC with all these great people? I think so – thanks! with all these great people? I think so – thanks!

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99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 70 70 SKIING SKIING

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Rutschblock test, Avalanche School Rutschblock test, Avalanche School Photo: Elise Breyton Photo: Elise Breyton

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First Winter Traverse of the Misty Icefield First Winter Traverse of the Misty Icefield Feb. 13 - Feb. 19, 2000 Feb. 13 - Feb. 19, 2000 Robin McKillop Robin McKillop

With the approach of “Reading Break” came a plethora of With the approach of “Reading Break” came a plethora of trip ideas in my mind. First, I considered areas in the Rockies trip ideas in my mind. First, I considered areas in the Rockies such as the Columbia Icefield or Rogers Pass, but I didn’t want to such as the Columbia Icefield or Rogers Pass, but I didn’t want to go somewhere crowded. After all, the point of backcountry skiing go somewhere crowded. After all, the point of backcountry skiing is to be in the “backcountry.” To me, there is not much differ- is to be in the “backcountry.” To me, there is not much difference between Red Heather on a sunny Saturday afternoon and ence between Red Heather on a sunny Saturday afternoon and resort skiing. So the possibilities drifted in and out of my head resort skiing. So the possibilities drifted in and out of my head until finally it came to me: the Misty Icefield. Two summers ago, until finally it came to me: the Misty Icefield. Two summers ago, I visited Snowcap Lake and the Mount Pitt area on foot and I visited Snowcap Lake and the Mount Pitt area on foot and dreamed of what it would be like on skis. Well, I decided I had dreamed of what it would be like on skis. Well, I decided I had better see. better see.

Looking back on it now, the hardest part of the trip was by Looking back on it now, the hardest part of the trip was by far its organisation. Numerous phone calls and a reconnaissance far its organisation. Numerous phone calls and a reconnaissance trip into the area served as essential steps toward this trip’s occur- trip into the area served as essential steps toward this trip’s occur- rence. After learning that the Lillooet River Roads were ploughed rence. After learning that the Lillooet River Roads were ploughed on the west side of the river only 5 km south of the Tenas Lake on the west side of the river only 5 km south of the Tenas Lake Bridge, some strategic thinking was needed. Hmmm.... Ski all the Bridge, some strategic thinking was needed. Hmmm.... Ski all the way down the unploughed section of road and up the spur road? way down the unploughed section of road and up the spur road? No, Reading Break was too short. Borrow a canoe from the No, Reading Break was too short. Borrow a canoe from the Skookumchuk Indian Reserve on the east side and paddle across Skookumchuk Indian Reserve on the east side and paddle across the river? No, there is no phone contact with Skookumchuk. the river? No, there is no phone contact with Skookumchuk. Frantically paddle a small rubber dingy across the narrow section Frantically paddle a small rubber dingy across the narrow section of the river near Skookumchuk without saturating all our equip- of the river near Skookumchuk without saturating all our equipment? No. Only one option remained, and unfortunately it was ment? No. Only one option remained, and unfortunately it was not the preferred one: get towed behind a snowmobile along the not the preferred one: get towed behind a snowmobile along the unploughed logging road! And this is where the trip begins. unploughed logging road! And this is where the trip begins.

The first day was crystal clear and nothing but the rank The first day was crystal clear and nothing but the rank smell of snowmobile farts filled the air! Kate Zidek, Steve Klas- smell of snowmobile farts filled the air! Kate Zidek, Steve Klas- sen, and I waved good-bye to my Dad (to whom we are grateful sen, and I waved good-bye to my Dad (to whom we are grateful for dropping us off 4 hours from home!) and hung on for dear for dropping us off 4 hours from home!) and hung on for dear life to our avalanche shovel-climbing rope towing system behind life to our avalanche shovel-climbing rope towing system behind

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 73 73 the snowmobile. Zoom!...we were off. After about 2.5 hours of the snowmobile. Zoom!...we were off. After about 2.5 hours of water-skiing on snow and back tracking on spur roads we arrived water-skiing on snow and back tracking on spur roads we arrived at what our memories told us (Steve and I) was the right spur at what our memories told us (Steve and I) was the right spur road. (It should be noted at this point that a party of Fred, Ivan, road. (It should be noted at this point that a party of Fred, Ivan, Yaron, and Josie had begun this trip one day prior to us and with Yaron, and Josie had begun this trip one day prior to us and with some road information which, let’s just say, was out of date.) some road information which, let’s just say, was out of date.) Once the snowmobile choked (literally on deep snow), the three Once the snowmobile choked (literally on deep snow), the three of us began following the tracks laid down by Fred’s group only of us began following the tracks laid down by Fred’s group only hours before. At dusk we decided to stop and make camp in a hours before. At dusk we decided to stop and make camp in a subalpine meadow (which turned out to be about 15 minutes be- subalpine meadow (which turned out to be about 15 minutes before Fred’s camp). fore Fred’s camp).

“Wake up, wake up” I said as the usual trip alarm clock. “Wake up, wake up” I said as the usual trip alarm clock. “It’s clear outside, let’s go!” Before our feet even had time to “It’s clear outside, let’s go!” Before our feet even had time to warm up completely we stumbled into the slow-to-start camp of warm up completely we stumbled into the slow-to-start camp of the other four. From this point on, each switch-back, every ice- the other four. From this point on, each switch-back, every icefield, and all the cold extremities were shared by both groups. field, and all the cold extremities were shared by both groups. The first half of this day was spent reaching treeline and a lake SE The first half of this day was spent reaching treeline and a lake SE of the Icemantle Glacier; the second half was spent slogging of the Icemantle Glacier; the second half was spent slogging across the Icemantle Glacier onto the ridge leading down to Tu- across the Icemantle Glacier onto the ridge leading down to Tu- wasus Pass. Phew! What a long day! wasus Pass. Phew! What a long day!

The third morning we woke up to strong winds and mod- The third morning we woke up to strong winds and moderate snow. So what? Knowing the route (roughly) and being erate snow. So what? Knowing the route (roughly) and being driven by time constraints (which some may argue is poor form), driven by time constraints (which some may argue is poor form), the newly accumulated seven group members pushed on. Once the newly accumulated seven group members pushed on. Once down on Lower Snowcap Lake, we were graced with a few sunny down on Lower Snowcap Lake, we were graced with a few sunny breaks which allowed us to catch sporadic yet crucial glimpses of breaks which allowed us to catch sporadic yet crucial glimpses of the broad ridge running south from the “bridge” separating the the broad ridge running south from the “bridge” separating the upper and lower lakes. Full of Logan Bread (thank you, Andre upper and lower lakes. Full of Logan Bread (thank you, Andre (see VOCJ 1997)), we tramped our way up the first half of the (see VOCJ 1997)), we tramped our way up the first half of the ridge. That evening, in strong winds, we learned how to tie down ridge. That evening, in strong winds, we learned how to tie down our tent withevery guy-line it had. our tent withevery guy-line it had.

Yippee! When we looked out of our tents the next morn- Yippee! When we looked out of our tents the next morning it was cold clear blue! With the -15°C temperature we were ing it was cold clear blue! With the -15°C temperature we were slow to go from booties to plastics but were eventually on our slow to go from booties to plastics but were eventually on our way to the high point of the trip. From the summit of Snowcap way to the high point of the trip. From the summit of Snowcap

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 74 74 Peak we could see forever...Mt. Baker, Judge Howay, Mt. Gari- Peak we could see forever...Mt. Baker, Judge Howay, Mt. Gari- baldi, Mt. Matier....Then came a fun downhill. baldi, Mt. Matier....Then came a fun downhill.

Off came the skins and within about 5 minutes I was draw- Off came the skins and within about 5 minutes I was drawing snow noodles in the fresh powder next to the others (who ing snow noodles in the fresh powder next to the others (who chose to keep their skins on)! Mind you, the pain I felt in my chose to keep their skins on)! Mind you, the pain I felt in my quads after telemarking with a 50 pound pack nearly wiped out quads after telemarking with a 50 pound pack nearly wiped out my enjoyment of the run...nearly. Next we skipped from one ice- my enjoyment of the run...nearly. Next we skipped from one icefield to the next (Wow that makes it sound so easy!). From the field to the next (Wow that makes it sound so easy!). From the Snowcap, we dropped down to the Misty, and from the Misty we Snowcap, we dropped down to the Misty, and from the Misty we dropped down to the Stave. Camping at the SE corner of the dropped down to the Stave. Camping at the SE corner of the Stave Glacier we had a chilly night in the damp sleeping bags. Stave Glacier we had a chilly night in the damp sleeping bags.

Once again waking up to clear weather we shivered into Once again waking up to clear weather we shivered into our boots and skied down from the Stave Glacier to a series of our boots and skied down from the Stave Glacier to a series of lakes. Thankfully, we became practised ice fishers before we lakes. Thankfully, we became practised ice fishers before we knew it and were able to retrieve some water through the thin ice knew it and were able to retrieve some water through the thin ice at the lake outlet. The lake crossing which followed, to me, was at the lake outlet. The lake crossing which followed, to me, was the most memorable part of the trip. On all sides, steep mountain the most memorable part of the trip. On all sides, steep mountain faces and ridges dropped down to the lakeshore. The only exit faces and ridges dropped down to the lakeshore. The only exit from the magical cage was a 10m wide lake-level gap in the other- from the magical cage was a 10m wide lake-level gap in the otherwise continuous mountain fence. About 15 minutes beyond this wise continuous mountain fence. About 15 minutes beyond this “gate” was another lake which, interestingly, is not marked on the “gate” was another lake which, interestingly, is not marked on the map! map!

Thinking we definitely chose the best route, we were sur- Thinking we definitely chose the best route, we were surprised to see the deep blue colour of glacier ice as it smirked at us prised to see the deep blue colour of glacier ice as it smirked at us in a mini icefall. Within several awkward switch-backs we were in a mini icefall. Within several awkward switch-backs we were once again on the flat top of an icefield. Standing on the ridge at once again on the flat top of an icefield. Standing on the ridge at the south side we watched the sun disappear below the horizon. the south side we watched the sun disappear below the horizon. One thousand feet of skin-skiing later we were at the bottom of One thousand feet of skin-skiing later we were at the bottom of the icefield to the north of Remote Peak. That evening while the icefield to the north of Remote Peak. That evening while cooking dinner, we gazed anxiously at the high cirrus cloud shad- cooking dinner, we gazed anxiously at the high cirrus cloud shad- owing the moon. After all, we knew that the most difficult route- owing the moon. After all, we knew that the most difficult route- finding of the trip was getting off the icefields, and to do it in finding of the trip was getting off the icefields, and to do it in stormy weather was not our first choice. stormy weather was not our first choice. To our relief, the high cloud from the previous evening did To our relief, the high cloud from the previous evening did not develop into anything more than high cloud. We skied up the not develop into anything more than high cloud. We skied up the

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 75 75 final icefield of the trip and just before falling off cliffs on the final icefield of the trip and just before falling off cliffs on the west side of the ridge, took the time to find a somewhat safe route west side of the ridge, took the time to find a somewhat safe route down. From the top of the 6600’ ridge west of Remote Peak, a down. From the top of the 6600’ ridge west of Remote Peak, a broad steep ridge drops west down to a new logging road that broad steep ridge drops west down to a new logging road that climbs to treeline in the north-facing basin below. climbs to treeline in the north-facing basin below.

Down, down, down, we joyfully skied the logging road (not Down, down, down, we joyfully skied the logging road (not marked on any maps!) right to the Alvin logging camp. With rust- marked on any maps!) right to the Alvin logging camp. With rust- ing machinery and dim lights flickering in the evening glow, it had ing machinery and dim lights flickering in the evening glow, it had an eerie ghost-town-like feel. Half an hour’s walk along the logan eerie ghost-town-like feel. Half an hour’s walk along the logging road brought us to our final destination: Le Chateau (well, ging road brought us to our final destination: Le Chateau (well, almost). There is a newly built lodge which caters to fishermen almost). There is a newly built lodge which caters to fishermen and hot spring-goers. For a small fee we slept soundly in a room and hot spring-goers. For a small fee we slept soundly in a room with a wood stove, pool table, couches, and a whole lot of history! with a wood stove, pool table, couches, and a whole lot of history! You’d be surprised at the number of guests that walk into your You’d be surprised at the number of guests that walk into your room at the north end of Pitt Lake and strike up a conversation! room at the north end of Pitt Lake and strike up a conversation! Anyways, after eating at least 30 leftover fruit and chocolate bars, Anyways, after eating at least 30 leftover fruit and chocolate bars, playing cards, and drinking double-shot hot chocolates, we went playing cards, and drinking double-shot hot chocolates, we went to sleep thanking the “Weather Gods” for the clear days. to sleep thanking the “Weather Gods” for the clear days.

At 8 AM the next morning we piled into Dan’s (the water At 8 AM the next morning we piled into Dan’s (the water taxi guy) rusty old truck and rattled our way for the remaining 8 taxi guy) rusty old truck and rattled our way for the remaining 8 km to Pitt Lake where his boat was docked. What a way to end a km to Pitt Lake where his boat was docked. What a way to end a ski trip, riding on the upper deck of a sturdy old boat through the ski trip, riding on the upper deck of a sturdy old boat through the pristine waters of Pitt Lake as the morning sun casts its shadows pristine waters of Pitt Lake as the morning sun casts its shadows across the glacial fjord. across the glacial fjord.

While we lucked out on weather, one should be aware that While we lucked out on weather, one should be aware that proficient map and compass skills may be all one has to go on in proficient map and compass skills may be all one has to go on in any “normal” February. Also, if you choose to do this trip, please any “normal” February. Also, if you choose to do this trip, please keep your eyes open for a Nalgene water bottle rolling down the keep your eyes open for a Nalgene water bottle rolling down the last logging road and a bag of real fruit gummy bears at the top of last logging road and a bag of real fruit gummy bears at the top of the Snowcap Glacier! the Snowcap Glacier!

Participants: Participants: Kate Zidek Steve Klassen Kate Zidek Steve Klassen Robin McKillop Robin McKillop (Fred, Ivan, Josie, Yaron) (Fred, Ivan, Josie, Yaron)

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Connecting the Dots Connecting the Dots Spearhead Traverse, July 12-13, 1999 Spearhead Traverse, July 12-13, 1999 Fred Touche Fred Touche

Armed with John Baldwin’s new high-tech map, we set off Armed with John Baldwin’s new high-tech map, we set off on this famous ski traverse around the headwaters of on this famous ski traverse around the headwaters of Fitzsimmons creek. This creek, by the way, runs right through Fitzsimmons creek. This creek, by the way, runs right through Whistler Village. The traverse is seldom done in the summer, but Whistler Village. The traverse is seldom done in the summer, but we figured this year’s record snow-pack would simulate spring we figured this year’s record snow-pack would simulate spring conditions in July. conditions in July.

Our difficulties started right from the base of the Whistler Our difficulties started right from the base of the Whistler chair lift; some official-looking construction worker wouldn’t let chair lift; some official-looking construction worker wouldn’t let us drive up the road to the Singing Pass trailhead. He claimed that us drive up the road to the Singing Pass trailhead. He claimed that the road was impassable, and besides, the trail was closed. This the road was impassable, and besides, the trail was closed. This meant that we had to lug our packs and skis right from the village meant that we had to lug our packs and skis right from the village parking lot to the trailhead. Arriving at the trailhead, we encoun- parking lot to the trailhead. Arriving at the trailhead, we encountered a sign informing us that the trail was closed. We casually ig- tered a sign informing us that the trail was closed. We casually ignored the sign and started hiking on the trail that seemed to be in nored the sign and started hiking on the trail that seemed to be in excellent condition. excellent condition.

We eventually discovered that the runoff from the record We eventually discovered that the runoff from the record snowfall had destroyed several footbridges spanning the creeks snowfall had destroyed several footbridges spanning the creeks that cascade down from the Musical summits. Worse, many trees that cascade down from the Musical summits. Worse, many trees had been pushed over by the snow, making portions of the trail had been pushed over by the snow, making portions of the trail resemble a bushwhack. At one particularly fast-flowing creek, we resemble a bushwhack. At one particularly fast-flowing creek, we used a logjam to bypass a demolished bridge. Crossing the slimy used a logjam to bypass a demolished bridge. Crossing the slimy logs was, in my opinion, the most daring part of the whole trip; logs was, in my opinion, the most daring part of the whole trip; slipping off one of these logs would mean being swept down a slipping off one of these logs would mean being swept down a 45° body of flowing water. Amazingly, Marie crossed the logs 45° body of flowing water. Amazingly, Marie crossed the logs without any outward signs of concern, although she let me shuttle without any outward signs of concern, although she let me shuttle her pack and skis. her pack and skis.

About a kilometre before reaching Singing Pass, we were About a kilometre before reaching Singing Pass, we were able to strap on our skis, and after a few hours reached the ridge able to strap on our skis, and after a few hours reached the ridge overlooking Russet Lake and the Himmelsbach Hut. After a late overlooking Russet Lake and the Himmelsbach Hut. After a late lunch break, we skirted around the south side of Fissile Peak. This lunch break, we skirted around the south side of Fissile Peak. This

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 77 77 is when I first noticed a strange navigational problem. Baldwin’s is when I first noticed a strange navigational problem. Baldwin’s map has a very useful table with co-ordinates of all the high map has a very useful table with co-ordinates of all the high passes that you cross on the traverse. If you plug in all these co- passes that you cross on the traverse. If you plug in all these co- ordinates into your GPS and use a compass to direct you to the ordinates into your GPS and use a compass to direct you to the next pass, you can theoretically complete the whole traverse in a next pass, you can theoretically complete the whole traverse in a total whiteout. However, when I pointed my compass to the next total whiteout. However, when I pointed my compass to the next pass, it would invariably point to a mountaintop or other clearly pass, it would invariably point to a mountaintop or other clearly out of place landmark; I prematurely cursed the map. It wasn’t out of place landmark; I prematurely cursed the map. It wasn’t until after the trip that I found out that I had used the wrong map until after the trip that I found out that I had used the wrong map datum in my GPS. Baldwin’s map uses the NAD 83 datum in- datum in my GPS. Baldwin’s map uses the NAD 83 datum instead of NAD 27 that is used on the Canadian government maps. stead of NAD 27 that is used on the Canadian government maps. Luckily, the visibility was unlimited for most of our trip and we Luckily, the visibility was unlimited for most of our trip and we didn’t need any instruments to find our way. didn’t need any instruments to find our way.

We skied down the Overlord Glacier trying to contour We skied down the Overlord Glacier trying to contour around the north-west ridge of Overlord Mountain. This proved around the north-west ridge of Overlord Mountain. This proved impractical because of crevasses, so we instead used our ice axes impractical because of crevasses, so we instead used our ice axes to climb a steep couloir to gain the ridge. The upper part was an to climb a steep couloir to gain the ridge. The upper part was an exposed scramble on loose rock, which Marie was not too happy exposed scramble on loose rock, which Marie was not too happy about. We tried to bypass Overlord Mountain from the elevation about. We tried to bypass Overlord Mountain from the elevation where we had reached the ridge, but were again blocked by cre- where we had reached the ridge, but were again blocked by crevasses. Finally, after almost climbing to the top of the mountain, vasses. Finally, after almost climbing to the top of the mountain, we followed the upper reaches of the Benvolio Glacier to the we followed the upper reaches of the Benvolio Glacier to the Benvolio Shoulder; then indulged in a long, pleasant downhill ski Benvolio Shoulder; then indulged in a long, pleasant downhill ski session on the Diavolo Glacier. session on the Diavolo Glacier.

It was getting late in the day, but we were still far from the It was getting late in the day, but we were still far from the halfway point of our trip. The location of the col across Mount halfway point of our trip. The location of the col across Mount Iago’s east ridge was far from obvious, and made more difficult to Iago’s east ridge was far from obvious, and made more difficult to pinpoint because of my GPS blunder. As we struggled up the pinpoint because of my GPS blunder. As we struggled up the ridge, Marie was getting progressively weaker, despite having ridge, Marie was getting progressively weaker, despite having transferred almost everything, except her sleeping bag, out of her transferred almost everything, except her sleeping bag, out of her pack. We crossed some rock bands near the crest of the ridge and pack. We crossed some rock bands near the crest of the ridge and decided to set up camp, although there was no flat ground to be decided to set up camp, although there was no flat ground to be found. A cliff at the north side of the ridge reminded us that we found. A cliff at the north side of the ridge reminded us that we were somewhat off route. Marie prepared dinner as I dug a flat were somewhat off route. Marie prepared dinner as I dug a flat spot for our tent out of the snow. spot for our tent out of the snow.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 78 78 The author looking his best. The author looking his best. Photo: Ivan Bandic Photo: Ivan Bandic

After studying the map, I informed Marie of the possibility After studying the map, I informed Marie of the possibility of not making it home the next day; after going for 13 hours, we of not making it home the next day; after going for 13 hours, we had only covered about 40 percent of the traverse. This troubled had only covered about 40 percent of the traverse. This troubled her to no end since she had told her anxious mother that she her to no end since she had told her anxious mother that she would definitely be home before midnight the next day. would definitely be home before midnight the next day.

At 4:30 the next morning, I could hear the stove going. At 4:30 the next morning, I could hear the stove going. Marie had not slept one wink and was keen to get moving. I Marie had not slept one wink and was keen to get moving. I crawled out of my sleeping bag an hour or so later and strapped crawled out of my sleeping bag an hour or so later and strapped on crampons to scout the route ahead. I managed to find the col on crampons to scout the route ahead. I managed to find the col and returned to camp. The beautiful weather from the previous and returned to camp. The beautiful weather from the previous day was holding and, once we got moving, we made swift pro- day was holding and, once we got moving, we made swift progress. We skied down the Iago Glacier and then followed an ex- gress. We skied down the Iago Glacier and then followed an exposed snow ridge to the McBeth Glacier. This glacier was still in posed snow ridge to the McBeth Glacier. This glacier was still in the shade and the snow was hard as rock, so we kept our cram- the shade and the snow was hard as rock, so we kept our crampons on all the way to the Couloir Ridge spur. Then, we easily pons on all the way to the Couloir Ridge spur. Then, we easily

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 79 79 crossed the Naden and Ripsaw glaciers to the Platform Glacier crossed the Naden and Ripsaw glaciers to the Platform Glacier where we had a long lunch near Quiver Peak. This area was famil- where we had a long lunch near Quiver Peak. This area was familiar to me from a trip a few years earlier. Occasionally, we would iar to me from a trip a few years earlier. Occasionally, we would see helicopters overhead and I would comment that it was proba- see helicopters overhead and I would comment that it was probably Marie’s mother looking for us. bly Marie’s mother looking for us.

A long trudge bought us to the Tremor-Shudder col, then A long trudge bought us to the Tremor-Shudder col, then we did some pleasant contour skiing across the Tremor Glacier to we did some pleasant contour skiing across the Tremor Glacier to the north ridge of Mount Pattison. The usual route goes around the north ridge of Mount Pattison. The usual route goes around the south of Mount Pattison and would have been a better choice. the south of Mount Pattison and would have been a better choice. We (I) instead chose to ice axe our way up a steep gully up to the We (I) instead chose to ice axe our way up a steep gully up to the north ridge; this unnecessary waste of energy did not please north ridge; this unnecessary waste of energy did not please Marie. While skiing laterally across the Trorey Glacier, we tried to Marie. While skiing laterally across the Trorey Glacier, we tried to determine if the regular route across the Decker Northeast Spur determine if the regular route across the Decker Northeast Spur was viable this time of the year. It didn’t look good from our van- was viable this time of the year. It didn’t look good from our vantage point and we took a long break when we reached the rock tage point and we took a long break when we reached the rock ridge north of Mount Trorey. We followed this ridge to the east ridge north of Mount Trorey. We followed this ridge to the east side of Mount Decker and then stared down at the steep and cre- side of Mount Decker and then stared down at the steep and crevassed slopes of the upper Decker Glacier. vassed slopes of the upper Decker Glacier.

We started several slush avalanches as we zigzagged our We started several slush avalanches as we zigzagged our way down toward a tiny, still-frozen lake. We were both losing way down toward a tiny, still-frozen lake. We were both losing energy, but we would be home-free after one more exhausting up- energy, but we would be home-free after one more exhausting uphill to the Spearhead col. After reaching the Spearhead col, we hill to the Spearhead col. After reaching the Spearhead col, we glimpsed the top of the Horstman chair lift, temptingly close but glimpsed the top of the Horstman chair lift, temptingly close but still another down and uphill away across the Blackcomb Glacier. still another down and uphill away across the Blackcomb Glacier. A surprising rooftop ridge finally guided us to the top of the A surprising rooftop ridge finally guided us to the top of the Blackcomb ski area. Blackcomb ski area.

A female employee of ski hill approached us to warn us not A female employee of ski hill approached us to warn us not to ski under a track machine that was precariously suspended by a to ski under a track machine that was precariously suspended by a cable. She told us that quickest way down the mountain was to cable. She told us that quickest way down the mountain was to ignore the out-of-bound fences and pointed us to a suggested ignore the out-of-bound fences and pointed us to a suggested route. We enjoyed the groomed runs, slipped under the fence, and route. We enjoyed the groomed runs, slipped under the fence, and continued to a gully bounded by rock bluffs. After realizing that continued to a gully bounded by rock bluffs. After realizing that the snow was too hard and steep for safe skiing I grabbed the ice the snow was too hard and steep for safe skiing I grabbed the ice axe and started step kicking my way down. Marie protested and axe and started step kicking my way down. Marie protested and suggested that we go back up to the fence and find an easier way suggested that we go back up to the fence and find an easier way

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 80 80 down. Luckily, she was too tired to put up a convincing argument down. Luckily, she was too tired to put up a convincing argument and instead followed my steps. After an eternity we reached a and instead followed my steps. After an eternity we reached a rock outcrop and I fired up the stove for a much-needed dinner; rock outcrop and I fired up the stove for a much-needed dinner; all we had left was some soup and tea. Marie was feeling nauseous all we had left was some soup and tea. Marie was feeling nauseous and collapsed on the uneven rocks while I devoured all our left- and collapsed on the uneven rocks while I devoured all our leftover food and drink. over food and drink.

She managed to stagger onto her skis and we slid down to She managed to stagger onto her skis and we slid down to the end of the snow where a herd of ATVers was just about to the end of the snow where a herd of ATVers was just about to head down the road. Pleading for a ride down the mountain had head down the road. Pleading for a ride down the mountain had no effect and we resigned ourselves to stagger down the remain- no effect and we resigned ourselves to stagger down the remaining 11 km along the gravel road to the village. Hiking down the ing 11 km along the gravel road to the village. Hiking down the ski runs would have reduced the distance but Marie didn’t want to ski runs would have reduced the distance but Marie didn’t want to subject herself to any more slipping and sliding. A third of the subject herself to any more slipping and sliding. A third of the way down, we hitched a ride with a 4x4 and were glad to see the way down, we hitched a ride with a 4x4 and were glad to see the end of another 13-hour day. Marie dutifully called her mom when end of another 13-hour day. Marie dutifully called her mom when we reached Whistler village. we reached Whistler village.

Participants: Participants: Marie d’Anglemont Fred Touche Marie d’Anglemont Fred Touche

Postscript Postscript During a later conversation with John Baldwin, I found out that the map During a later conversation with John Baldwin, I found out that the map that we had used was not the map created by him. that we had used was not the map created by him.

Marie dedicates this trip to David P. His courage and strength were an in- Marie dedicates this trip to David P. His courage and strength were an inspiration to keep going and to appreciate beauty despite physical exhaustion. spiration to keep going and to appreciate beauty despite physical exhaustion.

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Snogasm Snogasm Robin McKillop Robin McKillop

It all began two years ago when Andre Z., Mike G., Dave It all began two years ago when Andre Z., Mike G., Dave C., Steph F., and I were skiing the Bonnington Traverse from C., Steph F., and I were skiing the Bonnington Traverse from Castlegar to Nelson in February Reading Break. There we were, Castlegar to Nelson in February Reading Break. There we were, Andre and I, powder up to our knees and eyes dancing. From Andre and I, powder up to our knees and eyes dancing. From our buried ski tips to the forest edge a modest 500ft below was our buried ski tips to the forest edge a modest 500ft below was pure, untracked powder. No, it wasn't champagne powder. No, pure, untracked powder. No, it wasn't champagne powder. No, it wasn't 3000ft of uninterrupted fluff. There were even a few it wasn't 3000ft of uninterrupted fluff. There were even a few stubbly trees showing. But it was all ours. And the only thing stubbly trees showing. But it was all ours. And the only thing preventing our squiggly vandalism from disfiguring the slope im- preventing our squiggly vandalism from disfiguring the slope immediately was the gentlemenly composure needed in waiting for mediately was the gentlemenly composure needed in waiting for the others. the others.

In my earlier days of skiing and mountaineering, my friends In my earlier days of skiing and mountaineering, my friends knew me by the distinct "Oooooo!" sound which emanated from knew me by the distinct "Oooooo!" sound which emanated from the bottom of my lungs as soon as I caught a glimpse of snow. the bottom of my lungs as soon as I caught a glimpse of snow. Well, now came the real test. Andre and I stood quivering with Well, now came the real test. Andre and I stood quivering with anticipation. An accelerated heart rate and twingling muscles anticipation. An accelerated heart rate and twingling muscles were the only things we could feel. All was silent: the trees fro- were the only things we could feel. All was silent: the trees frozen, the birds asleep; the only thing we could hear were the voices zen, the birds asleep; the only thing we could hear were the voices in our subconscious, ‘Go...Go now...dive right in...She's all in our subconscious, ‘Go...Go now...dive right in...She's all yours....' yours....'

But then our conscious thoughts took over and we realised But then our conscious thoughts took over and we realised what this was all about: FOREPLAY. That's right, innocent (?) what this was all about: FOREPLAY. That's right, innocent (?) foreplay preceding the climax. Why didn't we go? Why didn't we foreplay preceding the climax. Why didn't we go? Why didn't we track up that slope like Cerise Creek on a sunny Saturday after- track up that slope like Cerise Creek on a sunny Saturday afternoon? What held us back? noon? What held us back?

She was teasing us and we were teasing her. But it was per- She was teasing us and we were teasing her. But it was perfect. It was so good! After all, awaiting the climax is half the fun! fect. It was so good! After all, awaiting the climax is half the fun! Everything in our bodies said to go for it right then, but we were Everything in our bodies said to go for it right then, but we were engrossed in a state far more fulfilling than the final release. We engrossed in a state far more fulfilling than the final release. We didn't mind waiting...Not at all. didn't mind waiting...Not at all.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 82 82 Robin McKillop gets his kicks. Robin McKillop gets his kicks. Photo: Steve Klassen Photo: Steve Klassen

As soon as the others popped out of the forest, we were gone. Like the snow was on fire, we leaped from our stance, As soon as the others popped out of the forest, we were throwing an eddy of whirling snow up in the air behind us. gone. Like the snow was on fire, we leaped from our stance, Swish, swoosh... With each turn we sank deeper. Sparkling crys- throwing an eddy of whirling snow up in the air behind us. tals dancing around us like in a dream. Faster now, as the end Swish, swoosh... With each turn we sank deeper. Sparkling crys- was in sight and our bodies were warm. Like the spark which ig- tals dancing around us like in a dream. Faster now, as the end nites a fire, we vanished from sight. Burnt and weightless, we was in sight and our bodies were warm. Like the spark which ig- floated through the snow. Up and down we weighted our skis nites a fire, we vanished from sight. Burnt and weightless, we until finally it was all over.... The vortex of powder behind us had floated through the snow. Up and down we weighted our skis settled and all that remained was a trace of our presence. until finally it was all over.... The vortex of powder behind us had settled and all that remained was a trace of our presence. This is why we came. This is why we go back. For, a snogasm, a true frozen-water-induced joy-ride, is far better than This is why we came. This is why we go back. For, a anything.... snogasm, a true frozen-water-induced joy-ride, is far better than anything.... P.S. It should be noted that, upon consultation with Elissa, it has been proposed that removing one's ski boots after a long day of uphill slogging and P.S. It should be noted that, upon consultation with Elissa, it has been pro- downhill twisting is superior to any snogasm one may endure. posed that removing one's ski boots after a long day of uphill slogging and downhill twisting is superior to any snogasm one may endure.

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Club Ski Trips Club Ski Trips Roland Burton Roland Burton

The pages of the VOCJ are filled with Christmas ski trips The pages of the VOCJ are filled with Christmas ski trips to places like the Rockies, Macgillivray Pass, Bugaboos, Lizzie to places like the Rockies, Macgillivray Pass, Bugaboos, Lizzie Lake, Tenquille Lake, Lake O’Hara, Slocan Chief Cabin, Rogers Lake, Tenquille Lake, Lake O’Hara, Slocan Chief Cabin, Rogers Pass and so on, but recently, these trips seem to be a little less fre- Pass and so on, but recently, these trips seem to be a little less frequent and a little smaller. One of the problems with Christmas quent and a little smaller. One of the problems with Christmas trips is that they happen at a time of year when the days are short- trips is that they happen at a time of year when the days are short- est, nights are longest, weather is pretty cold, and snow is sparse, est, nights are longest, weather is pretty cold, and snow is sparse, unconsolidated, and likely to avalanche. Mid term break seems unconsolidated, and likely to avalanche. Mid term break seems to be a more sensible time for these adventures. to be a more sensible time for these adventures.

Hoping to relive some of the good experiences I have had Hoping to relive some of the good experiences I have had on the medium size, medium distance, medium length VOC trips on the medium size, medium distance, medium length VOC trips of long ago, in mid term break of 1999 I led a trip to Mt Assinibo- of long ago, in mid term break of 1999 I led a trip to Mt Assinibo- ine Park. We had nine people on our trip, helicoptered to the ine Park. We had nine people on our trip, helicoptered to the Naiset Huts, stayed four nights, and skied out the 28 km to our Naiset Huts, stayed four nights, and skied out the 28 km to our cars. We easily justified the helicopter as it runs a ten minute cars. We easily justified the helicopter as it runs a ten minute shuttle service into the area for $100 per person which saved two shuttle service into the area for $100 per person which saved two days of traveling with heavy packs, and were able to have tasty in- days of traveling with heavy packs, and were able to have tasty in- expensive food instead of expensive lightweight yucky freeze- expensive food instead of expensive lightweight yucky freeze- dried stuff. We bought apple pies in Canmore for $2 each and dried stuff. We bought apple pies in Canmore for $2 each and carried them on our laps in the helicopter. We brought presto carried them on our laps in the helicopter. We brought presto logs to burn. logs to burn.

Surprisingly, the Naiset Huts, which hold 5-10 people each, Surprisingly, the Naiset Huts, which hold 5-10 people each, can be heated quite warm with their little presto-log burning can be heated quite warm with their little presto-log burning wood heaters. Contrary to the park regulations, we did cook in wood heaters. Contrary to the park regulations, we did cook in the huts but we were careful. Once we were in the area and had the huts but we were careful. Once we were in the area and had gotten over our excitement of the helicopter ride we studied the gotten over our excitement of the helicopter ride we studied the maps and found the best slope for good steep tree skiing, and maps and found the best slope for good steep tree skiing, and skied it out most thoroughly. Some of the people on the trip skied it out most thoroughly. Some of the people on the trip were awesome tele skiers, mostly from Sweden. Besides skiing were awesome tele skiers, mostly from Sweden. Besides skiing the steep and deep, we tried to climb a local corniced lump, dug the steep and deep, we tried to climb a local corniced lump, dug holes in the snow, watched ptarmigan, and one day we did a long holes in the snow, watched ptarmigan, and one day we did a long

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 84 84 traverse down one pass and up another. Weather was not perfect traverse down one pass and up another. Weather was not perfect but pretty good. We got some fresh snow every day and tem- but pretty good. We got some fresh snow every day and temperatures were around -10°C, which is mild for the Rockies. The peratures were around -10°C, which is mild for the Rockies. The survivors claim the trip was a success, but as a leader, I cannot survivors claim the trip was a success, but as a leader, I cannot comment, except to say that I enjoyed it. comment, except to say that I enjoyed it.

This midterm break 2000 we go back to the Rockies, to the This midterm break 2000 we go back to the Rockies, to Alpine Club Stanley Mitchell Hut. We are looking for an afford- the Alpine Club Stanley Mitchell Hut. We are looking for an af- able holiday, good powder, ambiance, and hopefully good group fordable holiday, good powder, ambiance, and hopefully good dynamics. The heroic part is the driving. We will ski carefully group dynamics. The heroic part is the driving. We will ski care- and not get avalanched. We will eat moderately of tasty food and fully and not get avalanched. We will eat moderately of tasty have maybe a little red wine with dinner. We will be nice to each food and have maybe a little red wine with dinner. We will be other, most of the time. We will try and help each other. We will nice to each other, most of the time. We will try and help each try and make good memories, but not be heroic. In the end we other. We will try and make good memories, but not be heroic. may not write it up, for Journals are for describing heroic deeds In the end we may not write it up, for Journals are for describing and we’re trying to avoid that. heroic deeds and we’re trying to avoid that.

Sharkfin and Mt Garibaldi Sharkfin and Mt Garibaldi Photo: Jeffrey Martin Photo: Jeffrey Martin

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What happens when the weather is What happens when the weather is

Robin McKillop Robin McKillop

I am currently taking Geography 300, Micrometeorolgy, a I am currently taking Geography 300, Micrometeorolgy, a course which defines an inversion as ‘an increase in temperature course which defines an inversion as ‘an increase in temperature with height.’ I, however, would have to define an inversion as an with height.’ I, however, would have to define an inversion as an amazing opportunity to ski shirtless in December. Yes, this past amazing opportunity to ski shirtless in December. Yes, this past Christmas will definitely be one to remember, not because of the Christmas will definitely be one to remember, not because of the usual large amount of snow that inundates the Coast Mountains, usual large amount of snow that inundates the Coast Mountains, but because of the multiple-week temperature inversion which but because of the multiple-week temperature inversion which occurred across south western BC. occurred across south western BC.

Anyone living in Vancouver at the time will remember Anyone living in Vancouver at the time will remember waking up each morning to thick fog outside. Anyone skiing at waking up each morning to thick fog outside. Anyone skiing at the time will recall crystal clear days with daytime temperatures the time will recall crystal clear days with daytime temperatures hovering around +7°C and night time temperatures barely drop- hovering around +7°C and night time temperatures barely dropping below 5°C ! And that’s just what we were doing. ping below 5°C ! And that’s just what we were doing.

Mark Grist, Steve Klassen, my girlfriend Danielle, and I Mark Grist, Steve Klassen, my girlfriend Danielle, and I spent five days between Christmas and New Years baking in the spent five days between Christmas and New Years baking in the warm December sun (?) in and around Marriott Basin. Our trip warm December sun (?) in and around Marriott Basin. Our trip saw us starting at the large lake NW of Mt. Rohr. For an entire saw us starting at the large lake NW of Mt. Rohr. For an entire day, we yo-yo’ed the NE facing slopes W of Rohr, sometimes day, we yo-yo’ed the NE facing slopes W of Rohr, sometimes even appreciated the mellow conditions a little too much (hey, even appreciated the mellow conditions a little too much (hey, who said you need ski resorts to catch a little air!?). The evening who said you need ski resorts to catch a little air!?). The evening was spent gazing into the sunset (one that Mark rates as the third was spent gazing into the sunset (one that Mark rates as the third best he’s ever seen) from the shoulder of Mt. Rohr and then link- best he’s ever seen) from the shoulder of Mt. Rohr and then link- ing 1500 ft of turns back down to the tent. That night we slept ing 1500 ft of turns back down to the tent. That night we slept with our heads sticking out of the tent so that we didn’t miss a with our heads sticking out of the tent so that we didn’t miss a single shooting star in the white speckled sky. single shooting star in the white speckled sky.

The next morning we again awoke to warm rays of golden The next morning we again awoke to warm rays of golden sun entering our tent. After carrying our skis up one of the most sun entering our tent. After carrying our skis up one of the most horrendous frozen sun-crusted slopes I’ve ever seen, we skinned horrendous frozen sun-crusted slopes I’ve ever seen, we skinned up to the high point of the ridge stretching northward from the up to the high point of the ridge stretching northward from the

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 86 86 lake. Several bumps later we made a scary (and stupid) traverse lake. Several bumps later we made a scary (and stupid) traverse across the SW facing slopes into the head of Marriott Basin. across the SW facing slopes into the head of Marriott Basin. Amazing views in every direction (even when it was dark!). Amazing views in every direction (even when it was dark!).

After the usual slow get up, our group split into two: Steve After the usual slow get up, our group split into two: Steve and Danielle skied the hell out of a beautiful shaded slope near and Danielle skied the hell out of a beautiful shaded slope near camp and Mark and I summitted Mount Marriott. Wow, the camp and Mark and I summitted Mount Marriott. Wow, the views from the top of Mt. Marriott were incredible. We looked views from the top of Mt. Marriott were incredible. We looked down on Darcy and north to Whitecap Mountain (5000’ ski run down on Darcy and north to Whitecap Mountain (5000’ ski run anyone?!) and south to the Joffre Group standing sentinel on the anyone?!) and south to the Joffre Group standing sentinel on the skyline. When Mark and I got back we laughed at the tangle of skyline. When Mark and I got back we laughed at the tangle of ski tracks Steve and Danielle had laid down on “their” ski run. ski tracks Steve and Danielle had laid down on “their” ski run. (Of course full of jealousy, I had to do three runs on the slope be- (Of course full of jealousy, I had to do three runs on the slope before going to bed that night!). fore going to bed that night!).

Brrr... (relatively speaking, that is). The temperature was Brrr... (relatively speaking, that is). The temperature was about -7°C the next morning and the clouds had begun to build. about -7°C the next morning and the clouds had begun to build. Now was the fun part...Down... Actually, there were just enough Now was the fun part...Down... Actually, there were just enough soft snow sections to keep us from going crazy as we thrashed soft snow sections to keep us from going crazy as we thrashed our way through subalpine sun crust and 2 inch thick surface our way through subalpine sun crust and 2 inch thick surface hoar. When we got back to the truck, there was only a thick coat hoar. When we got back to the truck, there was only a thick coat of frost on the windows (an anomaly compared to past Christmas of frost on the windows (an anomaly compared to past Christmas trips that have had us digging for an hour just to reach the car!). trips that have had us digging for an hour just to reach the car!). I’ll tell you, the Weather Gods have definitely been on my side I’ll tell you, the Weather Gods have definitely been on my side this season - even when I came back a couple of weeks later with this season - even when I came back a couple of weeks later with 25 other VOCers.... Can you say tracked up?! 25 other VOCers.... Can you say tracked up?!

Participants: Participants: Danielle Bischof Steve Klassen Danielle Bischof Steve Klassen Mark Grist Robin McKillop Mark Grist Robin McKillop

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BREW HUT I BREW HUT I January 22 – 23, 2000 January 22 – 23, 2000 Roland Burton Roland Burton

The Brew Weekend was awesome. We had assorted tele The Brew Weekend was awesome. We had assorted tele people, AT people, a couple of boarders, and some people who people, AT people, a couple of boarders, and some people who travel by snowshoes if at all. And a dog. The snow was so good travel by snowshoes if at all. And a dog. The snow was so good we had to stop for an hour to ski the big bowl on the way in (and we had to stop for an hour to ski the big bowl on the way in (and to wait for the snow-shoers). It could not have been much better, to wait for the snow-shoers). It could not have been much better, and the good snow reached all the way down the mountain to the and the good snow reached all the way down the mountain to the highway. The hut was in pretty good shape, it was sticking out so highway. The hut was in pretty good shape, it was sticking out so we could find it, 3-4 metres of snow around it. It had a couple of we could find it, 3-4 metres of snow around it. It had a couple of snowdrifts in it where the roof has buckled. It was very cosy with snowdrifts in it where the roof has buckled. It was very cosy with our 16 people, plus two Norwegians who came in from Roe our 16 people, plus two Norwegians who came in from Roe Creek. Lots of laughter, kerosene fumes, and ingesting of stupe- Creek. Lots of laughter, kerosene fumes, and ingesting of stupe- fying substances, mostly red wine. We had hot showers down- fying substances, mostly red wine. We had hot showers down- stairs when Arlin who was cooking upstairs spilled his supper, as stairs when Arlin who was cooking upstairs spilled his supper, as did Elizabeth, and then Roland. One of our objectives for the did Elizabeth, and then Roland. One of our objectives for the weekend, besides having fun, was to check on a site where we weekend, besides having fun, was to check on a site where we could rebuild the Brew Hut so that it would not get destroyed by could rebuild the Brew Hut so that it would not get destroyed by snow, and where we could find it even in the winter, which is snow, and where we could find it even in the winter, which is probably mid-April. (At it's present site it gets buried, and it is not probably mid-April. (At it's present site it gets buried, and it is not a reliable destination in March because you will not find it; it is a reliable destination in March because you will not find it; it is buried.) buried.)

The new site: The new site: 1. Has most of the snow blown away, only about 20 cm 1. Has most of the snow blown away, only about 20 cm snow was there versus 3-4 metres at the hut. snow was there versus 3-4 metres at the hut. 2. Has better view, if possible. 2. Has better view, if possible. 3. Seems a good area for a hut. Snow was the best. 3. Seems a good area for a hut. Snow was the best.

It appears that the present hut may be around next sum- It appears that the present hut may be around next summer, depending on what happens to it when it gets buried in mer, depending on what happens to it when it gets buried in April. It is certainly ok to stay in right now. The next day we got April. It is certainly ok to stay in right now. The next day we got up eventually, made some wiggly tracks, and then skied home. Ex- up eventually, made some wiggly tracks, and then skied home. Ex- cellent trip. cellent trip.

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BREW HUT II BREW HUT II January 22 – 23, 2000 January 22 – 23, 2000 Mark Grist Mark Grist

Any resemblance of reality is purely coincidental, names may have been Any resemblance of reality is purely coincidental, names may have been changed to protect identities/reputations changed to protect identities/reputations

A rather successful BrewHaHa was held on the Jan 22-23 A rather successful BrewHaHa was held on the Jan 22-23 weekend with our massive party of 16 efficiently tracking out the weekend with our massive party of 16 efficiently tracking out the bowl north of the gully of death, moving on to the hut with copi- bowl north of the gully of death, moving on to the hut with copious quantities of red wine and herbal remedies. Great times were ous quantities of red wine and herbal remedies. Great times were had by all (well, maybe not the two guys who showed up after had by all (well, maybe not the two guys who showed up after sunset only to find 16 happy VOCers inhabiting the hut) and a sunset only to find 16 happy VOCers inhabiting the hut) and a short visit was paid by a peculiar giggling moose (could this have short visit was paid by a peculiar giggling moose (could this have been the same one from the last BrewHaHa?). Anyway, been the same one from the last BrewHaHa?). Anyway,

Sunday was absolutely stellar and the bowl down from the Sunday was absolutely stellar and the bowl down from the hut was quickly tracked out, with Kate Z putting in a nice line on hut was quickly tracked out, with Kate Z putting in a nice line on a snowboard (with a modest jump) and then Arlin had two im- a snowboard (with a modest jump) and then Arlin had two impressive runs (with two immodest jumps - large air) and tele'rs do- pressive runs (with two immodest jumps - large air) and tele'rs doing what they do best, in the 4-6 inches of powdahhhhhh !!! ing what they do best, in the 4-6 inches of powdahhhhhh !!!

Oh yeah, there was a real point to this trip and that was to Oh yeah, there was a real point to this trip and that was to find a new site for the hut, which Roland manage to do, so if find a new site for the hut, which Roland manage to do, so if we're keen and have the money, that could be the next big project we're keen and have the money, that could be the next big project looming on the horizon for the VOC. looming on the horizon for the VOC.

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Cayoosh Ski Trip Cayoosh Ski Trip January 14 – 16, 2000 January 14 – 16, 2000 Conor Reynolds Conor Reynolds

The best way to learn to play a new game is with people The best way to learn to play a new game is with people who have been playing it for a long time. Of course that means who have been playing it for a long time. Of course that means that they will kick your ass for the first few rounds, but it encour- that they will kick your ass for the first few rounds, but it encour- ages you to learn really fast. As Jeff said to me, it's important not ages you to learn really fast. As Jeff said to me, it's important not to forget that most of these people have had more years experi- to forget that most of these people have had more years experience on skis than you have had days... ence on skis than you have had days...

So with my pathetic six days – mostly of rental skis in ice- So with my pathetic six days – mostly of rental skis in ice- climbing boots – I headed off to Cayoosh Creek with a gang of climbing boots – I headed off to Cayoosh Creek with a gang of pros. Two trucks full of dare-devil road-surfers on Friday night pros. Two trucks full of dare-devil road-surfers on Friday night plus a carload more on Saturday morning made eleven, and when plus a carload more on Saturday morning made eleven, and when we reached the tiny secret hut (five dollars to the author will get we reached the tiny secret hut (five dollars to the author will get you directions) that seemed rather a lot. Luckily four brave souls you directions) that seemed rather a lot. Luckily four brave souls opted to sleep in tents. opted to sleep in tents.

Anyhow, on Saturday, I discovered that skinning around Anyhow, on Saturday, I discovered that skinning around the place, even with a pack, is not such a big deal – thanks (long- the place, even with a pack, is not such a big deal – thanks (long- distance) to Jer Frimer for the loan of all that great AT kit! But distance) to Jer Frimer for the loan of all that great AT kit! But trying to go DOWNHILL is a different matter. Mucho respect trying to go DOWNHILL is a different matter. Mucho respect for all those tele-gurus, I yelled as I fell into yet another tree-well for all those tele-gurus, I yelled as I fell into yet another tree-well (Marsha rescued me). So the first day was good, we ate a big pasta (Marsha rescued me). So the first day was good, we ate a big pasta meal and hit the sack cheerfully. Seven in the evening? Hey – it meal and hit the sack cheerfully. Seven in the evening? Hey – it was a wee bit chilly, ok, and twelve hours sleep is always a good was a wee bit chilly, ok, and twelve hours sleep is always a good thing. thing.

On Sunday, the posse skinned a zig-zag up through trees in On Sunday, the posse skinned a zig-zag up through trees in the wake of aspirant-guide/ox Dave, watched as he dug a pit and the wake of aspirant-guide/ox Dave, watched as he dug a pit and gave the all-clear, and then hit the ridge of some peak. At the top gave the all-clear, and then hit the ridge of some peak. At the top of our chosen descent, I peered with glee and a dash of trepida- of our chosen descent, I peered with glee and a dash of trepida- tion over the edge of some cliffs as the hard-men talked about tion over the edge of some cliffs as the hard-men talked about free-fall. Hah! Fortunately for the less-skilled in the party, Jay led free-fall. Hah! Fortunately for the less-skilled in the party, Jay led the way down a less intimidating chute and we skied super-steep the way down a less intimidating chute and we skied super-steep knee-deep (got-your-pieps?) fresh-tracks YOWWWWEEEEE... knee-deep (got-your-pieps?) fresh-tracks YOWWWWEEEEE...

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 90 90 powder! Has there ever been so many grins on the faces of so powder! Has there ever been so many grins on the faces of so few? few?

One more up and down to ice the cake and then we got One more up and down to ice the cake and then we got out of there, happy people trucking back to Vangroovy with out of there, happy people trucking back to Vangroovy with Enigma doing their funky thing on the tape machine. If you have- Enigma doing their funky thing on the tape machine. If you have- n't tried this game before, get out there – I can assure you that n't tried this game before, get out there – I can assure you that you won't lose. you won't lose.

Participants: Participants: Conor R. Jeff M. Conor R. Jeff M. Grahame Q. Jay B. Grahame Q. Jay B. Matt G. Marsha H Matt G. Marsha H Jan Mc. Gonzalo A. Jan Mc. Gonzalo A. Rowan Dave Rowan Dave Ian... and MANY others from elsewhere!! Ian... and MANY others from elsewhere!!

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99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 92 92 MOUNTAINEERING MOUNTAINEERING

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Knife Ridge on Mt Logan Knife Ridge on Mt Logan Photo: Jeremy Frimer Photo: Jeremy Frimer

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Odin’s Ice Odin’s Ice Alexander Fuglesang & David Persson Alexander Fuglesang & David Persson

Wednesday April 28 Wednesday April 28

David and Alex left Vancouver and drove to the Squamish David and Alex left Vancouver and drove to the Squamish River Road (close to the 20 mile point; Ashlu Canyon). After River Road (close to the 20 mile point; Ashlu Canyon). After parking the car we hiked up towards Mt. Ossa. After 4 – 5 hrs we parking the car we hiked up towards Mt. Ossa. After 4 – 5 hrs we reached a clear open area at about 1400 meters, where we put up reached a clear open area at about 1400 meters, where we put up tents. tents.

Thursday, April 29 Thursday, April 29

We left our tents at 6 AM, hiked up the slopes towards the We left our tents at 6 AM, hiked up the slopes towards the neighbouring Mt. Pelion, and skied down to the right towards the neighbouring Mt. Pelion, and skied down to the right towards the north face of Mt. Ossa. At the bottom of the face , I remember north face of Mt. Ossa. At the bottom of the face , I remember the following: Straight ahead was a face without too many rocks, the following: Straight ahead was a face without too many rocks, steep, but not too steep when compared to the areas to its left and steep, but not too steep when compared to the areas to its left and right. To my right was an "hourglass-shaped" route to the top - right. To my right was an "hourglass-shaped" route to the top - This became our way down. To my left, 1/3 up the mountain was This became our way down. To my left, 1/3 up the mountain was a couloir formation which became narrower and narrower as it a couloir formation which became narrower and narrower as it proceeded towards the top 0.5 – 1 metre wide). It looked steep, proceeded towards the top 0.5 – 1 metre wide). It looked steep, rocky and fairly challenging, this became our route up the moun- rocky and fairly challenging, this became our route up the mountain. tain.

We started climbing with crampons in a mix of snow and We started climbing with crampons in a mix of snow and ice. We brought tele skis, hoping to find a way to ski down. The ice. We brought tele skis, hoping to find a way to ski down. The first 300 to 400 metres, including the climb into the first narrow- first 300 to 400 metres, including the climb into the first narrow- ing formation up to the instep of the route, was climbed without ing formation up to the instep of the route, was climbed without the security of a rope. The first roped pitch (40-50 metres) was up the security of a rope. The first roped pitch (40-50 metres) was up a 2 metre wide chimney. This consisted of very difficult mixed a 2 metre wide chimney. This consisted of very difficult mixed ice/rock climbing. A section of 3 – 4 metres was slightly over- ice/rock climbing. A section of 3 – 4 metres was slightly overhanging. After two and a half more pitches, the last pitch having a hanging. After two and a half more pitches, the last pitch having a slight traverse to the right ended in a 5 – 6 metre vertical rise slight traverse to the right ended in a 5 – 6 metre vertical rise which took us exactly to the top. which took us exactly to the top.

It was by then 2 AM, Friday morning, under clear skies. We It was by then 2 AM, Friday morning, under clear skies. We

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 95 95 started the descent immediately down the ridge of Mt. Ossa. Af- started the descent immediately down the ridge of Mt. Ossa. Af- ter 300 to 400 metres, we felt slightly trapped on the top. We ter 300 to 400 metres, we felt slightly trapped on the top. We climbed down a steep section to the left along a corner about 30- climbed down a steep section to the left along a corner about 30- 40 metres, which took us to a new ledge. From that point, we 40 metres, which took us to a new ledge. From that point, we rappelled down to the right, onto the top of the "hourglass"- rappelled down to the right, onto the top of the "hourglass"- formation described earlier. We climbed down, put on our skis on formation described earlier. We climbed down, put on our skis on (this was the first time we used them), and headed back to our (this was the first time we used them), and headed back to our camp, where we arrived at 10 AM. We slept for two hours, then camp, where we arrived at 10 AM. We slept for two hours, then returned to our car down by Squamish River. returned to our car down by Squamish River.

Trip time: 2.5 days Trip time: 2.5 days Climbing time: 28 hrs round trip to camp Climbing time: 28 hrs round trip to camp

Unfortunately, all our gear was stolen in Chinatown on the same Unfortunately, all our gear was stolen in Chinatown on the same day, INCLUDING OUR CAMERAS!! (damn those junkies down day, INCLUDING OUR CAMERAS!! (damn those junkies down there) there)

The following route description was written by David and found among his The following route description was written by David and found among his guidebooks which were kindly donated to the VOC by his family. guidebooks which were kindly donated to the VOC by his family.

Odin's Ice. Alpine M4 N Face of Mt Ossa, Tantalus Range Odin's Ice. Alpine M4 N Face of Mt Ossa, Tantalus Range FA David Persson and Alexander Fuglesang FA David Persson and Alexander Fuglesang April 29 - 1999 April 29 - 1999

Climb snow (<15 degrees) on the left hand side of the N Face of Climb snow (<15 degrees) on the left hand side of the N Face of Ossa Mtn's East Summit. Continue up a gully just right of the N Ossa Mtn's East Summit. Continue up a gully just right of the N ridge on steeper snow. The gully narrows down and angles right- ridge on steeper snow. The gully narrows down and angles right- ward. This is a 50m pitch of mixed rock, ice and snow, with the ward. This is a 50m pitch of mixed rock, ice and snow, with the crux a sporty overhang -M4. Pro up to 3" (that we did not have) crux a sporty overhang -M4. Pro up to 3" (that we did not have) snow picket and a few screws. Belay on snow as the angle eases snow picket and a few screws. Belay on snow as the angle eases off to 30°, with an additional piece in a crack. (We used a piton, a off to 30°, with an additional piece in a crack. (We used a piton, a small cam should be fine). The next pitch is mostly steep snow small cam should be fine). The next pitch is mostly steep snow (~50°) with some ice for good measure. Belay as the gully angles (~50°) with some ice for good measure. Belay as the gully angles right. right.

The final pitch climbs steep snow, a steeper mixed section, The final pitch climbs steep snow, a steeper mixed section, traverses rightwards under a cornice and gains the summit. traverses rightwards under a cornice and gains the summit.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 96 96 Could be incredible in September Could be incredible in September

Odin has only got one eye, he sacrificed the other in ex- Odin has only got one eye, he sacrificed the other in exchange for the ?sent? of the runes. Our forced sacrifice was hav- change for the ?sent? of the runes. Our forced sacrifice was having all our ski, camping and climbing gear stolen while having din- ing all our ski, camping and climbing gear stolen while having dinner at a restaurant on the way home. ner at a restaurant on the way home. the name is a pun on the Swedish word for ice which is pronounced "eyes" ed. the name is a pun on the Swedish word for ice which is pronounced "eyes" Ed.

Photo: Jeremy Frimer Photo: Jeremy Frimer

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Redefining A "Day Trip" Redefining A "Day Trip" Marsha Hamilton Marsha Hamilton

(Thank you Mark Grist for the title!) (Thank you Mark Grist for the title!)

The Plan: Hike up to Lake Lovelywater Friday night, climb The Plan: Hike up to Lake Lovelywater Friday night, climb Alpha, Omega and if time permitted any other peak doable in a Alpha, Omega and if time permitted any other peak doable in a day over Thanksgiving weekend. A little ambitious? Possibly, but day over Thanksgiving weekend. A little ambitious? Possibly, but you don't always consider that as an issue when planning. you don't always consider that as an issue when planning.

The trip involved John Furneaux (a non VOCer), and my- The trip involved John Furneaux (a non VOCer), and myself. Our first challenge was to cross the Squamish River; I was self. Our first challenge was to cross the Squamish River; I was truly relying on some higher power to unlock the cable car. (An truly relying on some higher power to unlock the cable car. (An attempted Tyrolean traverse across the cable in August with Jer- attempted Tyrolean traverse across the cable in August with Jer- emy Frimer, proved utterly futile with 11 blisters on my right emy Frimer, proved utterly futile with 11 blisters on my right hand). By some miraculous force the chain was unlocked and we hand). By some miraculous force the chain was unlocked and we crossed the river in no time. That would soon prove to be about crossed the river in no time. That would soon prove to be about the only event to work in our favour. the only event to work in our favour.

It was completely dark once we unloaded from the cable It was completely dark once we unloaded from the cable car and decided our best bet was to sleep by the river and find our car and decided our best bet was to sleep by the river and find our way through the clear cut to the trail in the morning. We set up way through the clear cut to the trail in the morning. We set up camp under the cable car and soon snuggled into our sleeping camp under the cable car and soon snuggled into our sleeping bags. Not too much later, we were awoken by a sphincter- bags. Not too much later, we were awoken by a sphincter- releasing squeal made by an unidentifiable creature. It would run releasing squeal made by an unidentifiable creature. It would run back and forth between the bushes surrounding our tent, sound- back and forth between the bushes surrounding our tent, sounding seriously upset. We could hear its belly (?) dragging along the ing seriously upset. We could hear its belly (?) dragging along the ground as it raced around us. After numerous attempts to identify ground as it raced around us. After numerous attempts to identify it from the safety of the tent I, at least, became immune to it and it from the safety of the tent I, at least, became immune to it and fell asleep. fell asleep.

The morning started two hours late as we slept through our The morning started two hours late as we slept through our alarm, but we figured we could cruise up to the lake and at least alarm, but we figured we could cruise up to the lake and at least suss out the scene. We made it through the clear cut with minimal suss out the scene. We made it through the clear cut with minimal wounding, and eventually reached the ACC hut. Once there, we wounding, and eventually reached the ACC hut. Once there, we were greeted by Ron Royston , a.k.a. "Alpine Command" of the were greeted by Ron Royston , a.k.a. "Alpine Command" of the North Shore Search and Rescue who invited us in for tea. After North Shore Search and Rescue who invited us in for tea. After

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 98 98 some tea, and not enough time for any significant travel, we set some tea, and not enough time for any significant travel, we set up camp, and began route planning. We were given some tips up camp, and began route planning. We were given some tips from 'AC', but the area still unknown to us, the suggestions from 'AC', but the area still unknown to us, the suggestions seemed vague, but you can always figure it out when you have to seemed vague, but you can always figure it out when you have to right...? right...?

Saturday began at 5 AM, we were up and eating by 5:10 Saturday began at 5 AM, we were up and eating by 5:10 (yep, we were eager). Since we packed the night before we were (yep, we were eager). Since we packed the night before we were moving by 5:20. a small debate on lunch was solved by bringing 3 moving by 5:20. a small debate on lunch was solved by bringing 3 bagels, PB and jam, and 5 granola bars. We figured we would be bagels, PB and jam, and 5 granola bars. We figured we would be back in time for a late lunch. No need for comments. back in time for a late lunch. No need for comments.

Our route deviated from the initial plan, but after some Our route deviated from the initial plan, but after some sketchy steep bushwhacking, we made it to below the gendarmes sketchy steep bushwhacking, we made it to below the gendarmes by sunrise, crawled over to the North side of the summit, and by sunrise, crawled over to the North side of the summit, and through on our crampons and a rope. Minimal hazard, but a few through on our crampons and a rope. Minimal hazard, but a few rather large inconspicuous slots were scattered about. We wanted rather large inconspicuous slots were scattered about. We wanted to do more than a 'slog up' so we decided to find a more to do more than a 'slog up' so we decided to find a more 'technical' route – again no comment needed – and decided on a 'technical' route – again no comment needed – and decided on a gully involving some mixed climbing. It looked doable and pretty gully involving some mixed climbing. It looked doable and pretty fun. fun.

Our first move was to jump across a rather large Our first move was to jump across a rather large bergschrund, a jump for me was a step for John. The route then bergschrund, a jump for me was a step for John. The route then progressed into 3 pitches of rock and 2 pitches of ice climbing. progressed into 3 pitches of rock and 2 pitches of ice climbing. Dry tooling was definitely a new experience for me, but some Dry tooling was definitely a new experience for me, but some pretty interesting moves were accomplished – hopefully most pretty interesting moves were accomplished – hopefully most won't have to be repeated. We planned to reach the summit by won't have to be repeated. We planned to reach the summit by 4:30 or turn around, our descent plan was on the South side of 4:30 or turn around, our descent plan was on the South side of the summit, as it was the easiest route down...or so we were told. the summit, as it was the easiest route down...or so we were told.

The last pitch was a pretty sketchy rock pitch with some The last pitch was a pretty sketchy rock pitch with some definite funky under clinging and some "oh my god" layback high definite funky under clinging and some "oh my god" layback high stepping. Taking much longer then anticipated, we topped out at stepping. Taking much longer then anticipated, we topped out at 5:45, only slightly over an hour past our time line. We took one 5:45, only slightly over an hour past our time line. We took one super quick picture and started running down the south slope. No super quick picture and started running down the south slope. No troubles until we reached some rather large cliffs. After a double troubles until we reached some rather large cliffs. After a double rappel we reached some more cliffs, by this time, it was com- rappel we reached some more cliffs, by this time, it was com-

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 99 99 pletely dark. We managed a few more rappels, did some pletely dark. We managed a few more rappels, did some bergschrund jumping and ended up on the glacier with a sigh of bergschrund jumping and ended up on the glacier with a sigh of relief, we discussed being back to the tent within the hour to feast relief, we discussed being back to the tent within the hour to feast on a well-planned dinner. The 5-granola bars between the two of on a well-planned dinner. The 5-granola bars between the two of us were wearing thin. us were wearing thin.

We were told to stay high and work our way down to We were told to stay high and work our way down to Lambda Lake where we would find a trail leading back to Lake Lambda Lake where we would find a trail leading back to Lake Lovelywater, we definitely wanted to stay high for a while to avoid Lovelywater, we definitely wanted to stay high for a while to avoid getting cliffed out. We could almost make out the lake in the getting cliffed out. We could almost make out the lake in the shadows of the moon, and started heading down after what we shadows of the moon, and started heading down after what we thought was way past the cliffs. A few minutes later, after some thought was way past the cliffs. A few minutes later, after some harsh words of surprise we noticed we were on top of the harsh words of surprise we noticed we were on top of the dreaded cliffs. "One rappel should get us down" turned into four dreaded cliffs. "One rappel should get us down" turned into four hours of rappelling, throwing rocks over cliffs to see if there was a hours of rappelling, throwing rocks over cliffs to see if there was a bottom, losing an ice axe, a camera, a cam, some nuts and all of bottom, losing an ice axe, a camera, a cam, some nuts and all of our slings. By 10:30, having almost maxed out our patience, we our slings. By 10:30, having almost maxed out our patience, we sat down and feasted on a bagel and a half each. I think it was sat down and feasted on a bagel and a half each. I think it was there we agreed that Omega was out for tomorrow. there we agreed that Omega was out for tomorrow.

Around midnight, we finally reached the bottom of the Around midnight, we finally reached the bottom of the cliffs that we had tried so hard in vain to avoid. Fear of pulling cliffs that we had tried so hard in vain to avoid. Fear of pulling the rope and being stuck on some rock ledge (where no one in the rope and being stuck on some rock ledge (where no one in their sane mind would ever be) was interspersed with slight doz- their sane mind would ever be) was interspersed with slight doz- ing while the other rappelled or untangled the ropes. ing while the other rappelled or untangled the ropes.

From there, it was supposed to be easy, hit Lambda Lake From there, it was supposed to be easy, hit Lambda Lake and head for home. Some where in our hungered, exhausted state and head for home. Some where in our hungered, exhausted state we went wrong again! I am still mystified where this trail begins we went wrong again! I am still mystified where this trail begins on the west side of Lambda Lake, but we definitely didn't find a on the west side of Lambda Lake, but we definitely didn't find a trail. Instead, we spent the next 4 hours beating our way through trail. Instead, we spent the next 4 hours beating our way through the thickest bush I've ever set eyes on. We never actually touched the thickest bush I've ever set eyes on. We never actually touched ground in most spots as it was so dense, we just crawled through ground in most spots as it was so dense, we just crawled through the branches. We could never see each other, could sometimes the branches. We could never see each other, could sometimes make out each others’ head lamps but we would have to be within make out each others’ head lamps but we would have to be within an arms length away for even that. We followed each other more an arms length away for even that. We followed each other more or less by sounds...technically I suppose it was more like following or less by sounds...technically I suppose it was more like following each others’ cursing. each others’ cursing.

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At one point, not being able to see John and knowing we At one point, not being able to see John and knowing we were on some small cliffs directly above the lake, I heard him yell, were on some small cliffs directly above the lake, I heard him yell, drop through the branches we were crawling on and slide through drop through the branches we were crawling on and slide through the trees towards the cliffs. I was cringing, waiting for the splash, the trees towards the cliffs. I was cringing, waiting for the splash, deciding if I would have to follow to either get out or save him, deciding if I would have to follow to either get out or save him, when it went quiet. His ferocious swearing soon shattered the si- when it went quiet. His ferocious swearing soon shattered the silence. Turns out he was hanging upside down suspended by one lence. Turns out he was hanging upside down suspended by one foot caught in a root above the water, (if only I was exaggerating). foot caught in a root above the water, (if only I was exaggerating). How he got up, I'll never really know as I couldn't see anything How he got up, I'll never really know as I couldn't see anything except branches, but between the two of us, some trees and who except branches, but between the two of us, some trees and who knows what else, we crawled higher up. knows what else, we crawled higher up.

The next few hours were uneventful relatively speaking; The next few hours were uneventful relatively speaking; encountered a bear lay down, and figured since we couldn't run encountered a bear lay down, and figured since we couldn't run anywhere because it was so thick, the bear wouldn't be able to ei- anywhere because it was so thick, the bear wouldn't be able to either...and pretended to be content with that conclusion. We had a ther...and pretended to be content with that conclusion. We had a few headlamp batteries die and replaced them via feel; made it few headlamp batteries die and replaced them via feel; made it down to the water, tried traversing via the lakeshore, but after down to the water, tried traversing via the lakeshore, but after multiple slips, and a few close calls, decided higher was best. multiple slips, and a few close calls, decided higher was best.

Around 4 am, we reached the end of Lambda Lake, proba- Around 4 am, we reached the end of Lambda Lake, probably close to a state of hallucination. We had lost all hope of a trail bly close to a state of hallucination. We had lost all hope of a trail even existing and decided we might as well just walk east and even existing and decided we might as well just walk east and hope to hit Lake Lovely Water...it was big and the bush whacking hope to hit Lake Lovely Water...it was big and the bush whacking could never come close to what we had just experienced. could never come close to what we had just experienced.

A few minutes later in a small clearing, eyeing the next for- A few minutes later in a small clearing, eyeing the next forested region with some hesitation, I tripped. Ironically, it was the ested region with some hesitation, I tripped. Ironically, it was the trail heading back to Lovelywater that tripped me. Had we had the trail heading back to Lovelywater that tripped me. Had we had the energy to run, I'm sure we would have back to our tent, but we energy to run, I'm sure we would have back to our tent, but we could really only muster a fast paced stumble. could really only muster a fast paced stumble.

We reached the tent at 4:30 in the morning...only 23.5 We reached the tent at 4:30 in the morning...only 23.5 hours after we had left for our day jaunt up Alpha! We ate every- hours after we had left for our day jaunt up Alpha! We ate everything we had that didn't need to be cooked and slept till 10 the thing we had that didn't need to be cooked and slept till 10 the next morning. Deciding we had experienced enough adventure next morning. Deciding we had experienced enough adventure for one weekend, and that the forces of nature were not working for one weekend, and that the forces of nature were not working

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 101 101 in our favour, we packed up and heading down. With probably in our favour, we packed up and heading down. With probably the slowest descent recorded, we managed to get down and across the slowest descent recorded, we managed to get down and across the river uneventfully. We hitched to the Squamish Valley Road the river uneventfully. We hitched to the Squamish Valley Road junction then walked for an hour to a friend’s house along Para- junction then walked for an hour to a friend’s house along Para- dise Valley Road, got our van and drove home. dise Valley Road, got our van and drove home.

That night as I lay in bed awaiting sleep and recovery, re- That night as I lay in bed awaiting sleep and recovery, re- flecting on the descent...and the undoubtedly worst bushwhacking flecting on the descent...and the undoubtedly worst bushwhacking experience ever, I seriously pondered the definition of an "epic experience ever, I seriously pondered the definition of an "epic adventure"... adventure"...

Photo: Jeremy Frimer Photo: Jeremy Frimer

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Mountaineering 101 Mountaineering 101 Mt. Logan – East Ridge Mt. Logan – East Ridge Jay Burbee Jay Burbee

“Officer, you must be mistaken. This truck can’t go that fast in free fall!” “Officer, you must be mistaken. This truck can’t go that fast in free fall!”

A speeding ticket. So began my summer vacation. Greg A speeding ticket. So began my summer vacation. Greg Brown and I were driving to my folk’s place in Prince George Brown and I were driving to my folk’s place in Prince George where we met up with Martin Maines, Jeremy Frimer and Jeff where we met up with Martin Maines, Jeremy Frimer and Jeff Martin. From there we were heading to the Saint Elias Range for Martin. From there we were heading to the Saint Elias Range for a Real Adventure™. With our requisite dose of bad luck over, we a Real Adventure™. With our requisite dose of bad luck over, we knew that nothing could stop us. Until we ran out of gas south of knew that nothing could stop us. Until we ran out of gas south of 100 Mile House that evening... 100 Mile House that evening...

As a group of fledgling mountaineers, our main objective As a group of fledgling mountaineers, our main objective for the summer was to do the sort of trip that can’t be done in a for the summer was to do the sort of trip that can’t be done in a long weekend on the Coast. Jer wanted to go back to the Yukon long weekend on the Coast. Jer wanted to go back to the Yukon for a rematch (see last year’s journal), and the rest of us weren’t for a rematch (see last year’s journal), and the rest of us weren’t too fussy. We headed for the library, and an ambitious tick-list too fussy. We headed for the library, and an ambitious tick-list was drawn up. With the primary objective defined (climb every- was drawn up. With the primary objective defined (climb everything in sight that doesn’t scare us off immediately), preparation thing in sight that doesn’t scare us off immediately), preparation began in earnest. Gear was bought and made. Food was dehy- began in earnest. Gear was bought and made. Food was dehydrated and packaged. Bodies were subjected to long hours of drated and packaged. Bodies were subjected to long hours of studying in cold, damp basement apartments. All that remained studying in cold, damp basement apartments. All that remained was to whip ourselves into shape, but we figured that could wait was to whip ourselves into shape, but we figured that could wait until we started climbing. until we started climbing.

We were all pretty green at this extended mountaineering We were all pretty green at this extended mountaineering game. A lot of books had been read, and we had binders full of game. A lot of books had been read, and we had binders full of checklists, but did we really know what we were doing? It could checklists, but did we really know what we were doing? It could be argued (probably quite convincingly) that we didn’t know be argued (probably quite convincingly) that we didn’t know enough to head into this area on our own. We all had relatives enough to head into this area on our own. We all had relatives who asked some pretty hard questions before we left. However, who asked some pretty hard questions before we left. However, solid judgement, knowledge of our limitations and big-time enthu- solid judgement, knowledge of our limitations and big-time enthusiasm count for a lot. After all, you can only learn so much by siasm count for a lot. After all, you can only learn so much by reading books and setting up tents in the back yard. It was time reading books and setting up tents in the back yard. It was time

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 103 103 for some hands on work – a co-op term, if you will. Everybody for some hands on work – a co-op term, if you will. Everybody knows the fastest way to learn something is to jump in with both knows the fastest way to learn something is to jump in with both feet. feet.

May 4 May 4

The weather’s all that’s holding us back now. All the paper The weather’s all that’s holding us back now. All the paper work is done, and anything that isn’t here is obviously not impor- work is done, and anything that isn’t here is obviously not important or it would’ve been missed. After talking with the Rangers tant or it would’ve been missed. After talking with the Rangers and viewing some pictures at the Parks Office in Haines Junction, and viewing some pictures at the Parks Office in Haines Junction, it’s been decided that the East Ridge of Mt. Logan is what we it’s been decided that the East Ridge of Mt. Logan is what we should concentrate on. If there’s time left over, we’ll ski around a should concentrate on. If there’s time left over, we’ll ski around a bit and maybe climb something smaller. Mts. Vancouver and Au- bit and maybe climb something smaller. Mts. Vancouver and Au- gusta look promising. We’ve been killing time around the Kluane gusta look promising. We’ve been killing time around the Kluane Lake airstrip for a few days now, and are anxious to get going. Lake airstrip for a few days now, and are anxious to get going. Waiting out weather isn’t something I really wanted to practice. Waiting out weather isn’t something I really wanted to practice.

May 5 May 5

Woke up without a cloud in sight. I heard Marty muttering Woke up without a cloud in sight. I heard Marty muttering about why Andy Williams wasn’t flying. It was the second day of about why Andy Williams wasn’t flying. It was the second day of seemingly gorgeous skies, and we were beginning to wonder how seemingly gorgeous skies, and we were beginning to wonder how good the weather has to be in order to fly. Then we heard the good the weather has to be in order to fly. Then we heard the plane, and all hell broke loose. Jer ran off to find out what was up plane, and all hell broke loose. Jer ran off to find out what was up (Andy had flown a couple of times, but only for weather checks), (Andy had flown a couple of times, but only for weather checks), and the rest of us started loading the truck for the trip to the run- and the rest of us started loading the truck for the trip to the run- way (just in case). Word comes back – we’re on deck. We throw way (just in case). Word comes back – we’re on deck. We throw down a hurried breakfast, and then wait anxiously, wondering if down a hurried breakfast, and then wait anxiously, wondering if all our gear will make it in two loads. all our gear will make it in two loads.

It goes, and we’re on our way. Gorgeous views on the way It goes, and we’re on our way. Gorgeous views on the way in, but I’m feeling quite nervous. Never did like air travel. I’m in, but I’m feeling quite nervous. Never did like air travel. I’m wearing earplugs, and the lack of noise makes the landscape float wearing earplugs, and the lack of noise makes the landscape float eerily by. There's nothing but white and grey for as far as you can eerily by. There's nothing but white and grey for as far as you can see in any direction. We touch down softly, and after an unpack- see in any direction. We touch down softly, and after an unpack- ing frenzy, the plane roars away. The Hubbard Glacier stretches ing frenzy, the plane roars away. The Hubbard Glacier stretches away towards Kluane. Logan dominates the rest of the picture. away towards Kluane. Logan dominates the rest of the picture. Wow. Wow.

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A bunch of our gear is left here, while the rest heads up the A bunch of our gear is left here, while the rest heads up the glacier with us. After about five km of skiing towards the ridge, glacier with us. After about five km of skiing towards the ridge, advance base camp is set up just below the snow slope where we advance base camp is set up just below the snow slope where we plan to gain the ridge. We’re in a huge bowl beneath the face of plan to gain the ridge. We’re in a huge bowl beneath the face of Logan which separates the East and Hubsew ridges, and the in- Logan which separates the East and Hubsew ridges, and the in- timidation factor is high. Thankfully, there's no avalanche debris timidation factor is high. Thankfully, there's no avalanche debris around, and the sun soon drops behind the skyline, firming things around, and the sun soon drops behind the skyline, firming things up. Sleep comes easily. up. Sleep comes easily.

Mt Logan’s East Ridge Mt Logan’s East Ridge Photo: Jeffrey Martin Photo: Jeffrey Martin

May 6 May 6

The major benefit of waiting for really good weather before The major benefit of waiting for really good weather be- flying in is that you’re pretty much guaranteed a lengthy high pres- fore flying in is that you’re pretty much guaranteed a lengthy high sure system once you arrive. We’re anxious to get established on pressure system once you arrive. We’re anxious to get established the ridge, as there are other teams hot on our heels. Cam (former on the ridge, as there are other teams hot on our heels. Cam VOC VP) and JF are two climbers we know from Vancouver (former VOC VP) and JF are two climbers we know from Van- who flew in just ahead of us (after waiting for almost twenty couver who flew in just ahead of us (after waiting for almost days!). They pass us as we’re packing up, but head for the wrong twenty days!). They pass us as we’re packing up, but head for the

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 105 105 access snow-slope, and end up waiting while we break trail. As wrong access snow-slope, and end up waiting while we break trail. there are five of us versus two of them, this becomes a bit of a As there are five of us versus two of them, this becomes a bit of a theme for the entire climb. theme for the entire climb.

The snow is deep, but in no danger of sliding. Jer and I The snow is deep, but in no danger of sliding. Jer and I drop our packs at the bergschrund and beat a path to the ridge. drop our packs at the bergschrund and beat a path to the ridge. After the packs are retrieved, camp is set up without climbing any After the packs are retrieved, camp is set up without climbing any higher, as we’re unsure where the next campsite should be. That higher, as we’re unsure where the next campsite should be. That afternoon Jeff, Greg and Marty do a bit of exploring through the afternoon Jeff, Greg and Marty do a bit of exploring through the next rocky bit, while Jer and I relax. After all, there's no point in next rocky bit, while Jer and I relax. After all, there's no point in moving too fast – we’ve got to acclimatise. The views from this moving too fast – we’ve got to acclimatise. The views from this camp are impressive. I could get used to this sort of scenery! camp are impressive. I could get used to this sort of scenery!

May 7 May 7

On today’s menu – a delicious entree of alpine rock, with a On today’s menu – a delicious entree of alpine rock, with a beautiful sunrise to cleanse the palate and a savoury snow ridge to beautiful sunrise to cleanse the palate and a savoury snow ridge to top it all off. Jer found the rock bit quite trying last year, and top it all off. Jer found the rock bit quite trying last year, and from what we’ve heard it could be the overall crux. Although we from what we’ve heard it could be the overall crux. Although we managed to find some tricky bits, for the most part it was just managed to find some tricky bits, for the most part it was just straightforward scrambling, albeit with packs upwards of eighty straightforward scrambling, albeit with packs upwards of eighty pounds. The rock gear carried to this point definitely wasn’t pounds. The rock gear carried to this point definitely wasn’t needed. Today’s target was a large snow-dome at about ten thou- needed. Today’s target was a large snow-dome at about ten thousand feet, which we arrived at earlier than expected. Camp was sand feet, which we arrived at earlier than expected. Camp was set up, and we did a substantial carry up to the next noticeable set up, and we did a substantial carry up to the next noticeable bergschrund. Jeff and Marty work out a route across it while the bergschrund. Jeff and Marty work out a route across it while the rest of us descend to start dinner. rest of us descend to start dinner.

May 8 May 8

It doesn’t take long to move back up to the bergschrund, It doesn’t take long to move back up to the bergschrund, where we decide to climb through the cache dropped off last where we decide to climb through the cache dropped off last night. The ridge continues gracefully up, winding in and out of night. The ridge continues gracefully up, winding in and out of the clouds as they blow by. Unfortunately, as the ridge narrows the clouds as they blow by. Unfortunately, as the ridge narrows and steepens, the snowpack thins out and becomes rather rotten. and steepens, the snowpack thins out and becomes rather rotten. Feeling a little overextended, I set a belay on an exposed rock, and Feeling a little overextended, I set a belay on an exposed rock, and we all unsheathe our second tools. Soon Marty is leading off we all unsheathe our second tools. Soon Marty is leading off from my sugary stance. He runs up about a rope-length only to from my sugary stance. He runs up about a rope-length only to

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 106 106 have the lower knife ridge hit him full in the face. Now Jer had have the lower knife ridge hit him full in the face. Now Jer had talked about this "au cheval" thing, where you literally ride along a talked about this "au cheval" thing, where you literally ride along a narrow section of ridge like a horse, but no one had really taken narrow section of ridge like a horse, but no one had really taken him seriously. Until now, that is. Giddyup! After a bit of this, him seriously. Until now, that is. Giddyup! After a bit of this, and some intense views down past each foot, the knife ridge was and some intense views down past each foot, the knife ridge was over, and we jumped down into a small snowfield to set up camp. over, and we jumped down into a small snowfield to set up camp. The exposure and unsettled weather has drained us, and all The exposure and unsettled weather has drained us, and all thoughts of going back for the cache are abandoned. thoughts of going back for the cache are abandoned.

Knife Ridge Knife Ridge Photo: Jay Burbee Photo: Jay Burbee

The committing nature of this route is becoming apparent. The committing nature of this route is becoming apparent. Escape is only possible by down-climbing what’s been climbed, Escape is only possible by down-climbing what’s been climbed, and even then, you’re a long way from anywhere. Not that I’m and even then, you’re a long way from anywhere. Not that I’m worried. We’re competent, and coping with stress is part of the worried. We’re competent, and coping with stress is part of the game. And it’s not as though we’re not having fun – this place is game. And it’s not as though we’re not having fun – this place is spectacular!

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 107 107 spectacular! May 9 May 9

The cache we passed yesterday has to be retrieved, so Jer, The cache we passed yesterday has to be retrieved, so Jer, Greg and I head down. Marty and Jeff spend a relaxing day mov- Greg and I head down. Marty and Jeff spend a relaxing day moving the camp up to the next visible bump on the ridge. A short ing the camp up to the next visible bump on the ridge. A short day elevation-wise, but still lots of work. day elevation-wise, but still lots of work.

The sun was beating down heavily, but the steps we kicked The sun was beating down heavily, but the steps we kicked in the ridge yesterday make for an easy trip down. We certainly in the ridge yesterday make for an easy trip down. We certainly aren’t plunge-stepping, but without the packs, the knife ridge is aren’t plunge-stepping, but without the packs, the knife ridge is almost enjoyable. Still, as some caution is called for, it’s easily almost enjoyable. Still, as some caution is called for, it’s easily lunchtime when we reach the cache. After drinking a lot, and eat- lunchtime when we reach the cache. After drinking a lot, and eating a bit, we saddle up and head on home. There are a few inter- ing a bit, we saddle up and head on home. There are a few interesting sections on the way to the upper camp, but nothing is too esting sections on the way to the upper camp, but nothing is too technically difficult. However, the distance travelled and the sun technically difficult. However, the distance travelled and the sun have taken their toll. I’m more than happy to collapse into bed. have taken their toll. I’m more than happy to collapse into bed.

May 10 May 10

The section above us is the upper knife ridge, and we climb The section above us is the upper knife ridge, and we climb it quickly, utilising gear kindly left in place by Cam and JF. We it quickly, utilising gear kindly left in place by Cam and JF. We had tied our ropes together, and this, coupled with the full loads, had tied our ropes together, and this, coupled with the full loads, has us moving quite slowly. Once easier snow is reached, we stop has us moving quite slowly. Once easier snow is reached, we stop for lunch, and break into two rope teams. From here, the techni- for lunch, and break into two rope teams. From here, the technical difficulties are over - steep snow slopes lead on to the summit cal difficulties are over - steep snow slopes lead on to the summit plateau proper. A fair amount of distance is covered, and camp is plateau proper. A fair amount of distance is covered, and camp is set up on a snowfield facing back towards the Hubbard. Marty set up on a snowfield facing back towards the Hubbard. Marty likens the view to that from the top of a really big basketball. The likens the view to that from the top of a really big basketball. The ground just rolls off out of sight. ground just rolls off out of sight.

Our efforts while digging in here probably would’ve been Our efforts while digging in here probably would’ve been quite entertaining to watch. The air was noticeably thinner than quite entertaining to watch. The air was noticeably thinner than we were used to, and it was hard to cut more than a block or two we were used to, and it was hard to cut more than a block or two for the snow wall before we had to rest. Jer was all hopped up on for the snow wall before we had to rest. Jer was all hopped up on Diamox, and worked with a bit more zeal than the rest of us, but

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 108 108 he ended up in bed knackered just the same. Diamox, and worked with a bit more zeal than the rest of us, but he ended up in bed knackered just the same. May 11 May 11

Today we’re going to do a carry up to the summit plateau. Today we’re going to do a carry up to the summit plateau. There’s talk of trying to establish high camp, but that seems aw- There’s talk of trying to establish high camp, but that seems awfully ambitious. You need to be quite a ways across the flats be- fully ambitious. You need to be quite a ways across the flats before you’re close enough to realistically have a shot at the true fore you’re close enough to realistically have a shot at the true summit, which is our plan. summit, which is our plan.

We head on up some steep snow, with Jer having a bit of a We head on up some steep snow, with Jer having a bit of a wobbler at the first major bergschrund, but he pulls through. We wobbler at the first major bergschrund, but he pulls through. We stop for lunch at a bit of a flat spot below the icefall forming the stop for lunch at a bit of a flat spot below the icefall forming the edge of the summit glacier. That sounds kind of risky, but it was- edge of the summit glacier. That sounds kind of risky, but it was- n’t as though unsupported blocks were leaning out at thirty de- n’t as though unsupported blocks were leaning out at thirty degrees over our heads. After lunch, the two teams head in separate grees over our heads. After lunch, the two teams head in separate directions to try and find a route through the icefall. Our rope directions to try and find a route through the icefall. Our rope consists of me on point with the probe sniffing out slots, while consists of me on point with the probe sniffing out slots, while Jeff and Jer provide an attentive belay. Mom says thanks. Jeff and Jer provide an attentive belay. Mom says thanks.

Once a reasonable route had been scouted, we return for Once a reasonable route had been scouted, we return for our packs and start up through what seemed to be an endless se- our packs and start up through what seemed to be an endless series of false skylines. We trudge for what seems like forever, only ries of false skylines. We trudge for what seems like forever, only to fight our way over a lip and see another snowfield tilted a few to fight our way over a lip and see another snowfield tilted a few degrees off what we just came from. A halt is called when the degrees off what we just came from. A halt is called when the East summit comes into view. A cache is dug, loads are dropped East summit comes into view. A cache is dug, loads are dropped and the snowfields are descended. We get down quickly, and and the snowfields are descended. We get down quickly, and cook up in a hurry. Sleep came easily, yet again. cook up in a hurry. Sleep came easily, yet again.

May 12 May 12

Everyone but Marty is feeling a little bagged, so when we Everyone but Marty is feeling a little bagged, so when we look out the door and find it not exceptionally cheery outside, we look out the door and find it not exceptionally cheery outside, we kick back and relax. I believe I only got out of my sleeping bag kick back and relax. I believe I only got out of my sleeping bag once, and then only for the want of a pee bottle. If Jeff hadn’t once, and then only for the want of a pee bottle. If Jeff hadn’t been watching his water bottle so closely... been watching his water bottle so closely...

This day was probably good for us although we did get a This day was probably good for us although we did get a

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 109 109 little silly trying to kill the time between meals (this proved to be little silly trying to kill the time between meals (this proved to be good training). Aside from the fears of losing Marty to the exces- good training). Aside from the fears of losing Marty to the excessive loft of his sleeping bag, the day passed fairly uneventfully. sive loft of his sleeping bag, the day passed fairly uneventfully.

May 13 May 13

Today also dawned somewhat uncheerfully, but another Today also dawned somewhat uncheerfully, but another one inside couldn’t be faced (plus all of the reserve gorp had been one inside couldn’t be faced (plus all of the reserve gorp had been left at the cache on the plateau). Packs are shouldered, and we set left at the cache on the plateau). Packs are shouldered, and we set our sights on high camp. It took quite a bit of positive thinking our sights on high camp. It took quite a bit of positive thinking to get going (“I think I can, I think I can”), but once we hit the to get going (“I think I can, I think I can”), but once we hit the icefall we’re back in full stride. It’s a slog to the cache, with not icefall we’re back in full stride. It’s a slog to the cache, with not much to liven it up. Wind on the plateau is a little nippy, so face much to liven it up. Wind on the plateau is a little nippy, so face masks and goggles come out. The snow is hard, and our cram- masks and goggles come out. The snow is hard, and our crampons squeak in time with our steps. The landscape it vast and al- pons squeak in time with our steps. The landscape it vast and almost lunar, with amazing wind features. The “small” crevasse we most lunar, with amazing wind features. The “small” crevasse we spot on the horizon turns out to be big enough to swallow an air- spot on the horizon turns out to be big enough to swallow an airplane. When we finally cross the crest of a small rise, we find a plane. When we finally cross the crest of a small rise, we find a slightly sheltered area and drop the packs. If the last wall went up slightly sheltered area and drop the packs. If the last wall went up slowly, this one evolved on a geological time scale. Unfortunately, slowly, this one evolved on a geological time scale. Unfortunately, the winds necessitate the building of a robust wall, and eventually the winds necessitate the building of a robust wall, and eventually we’re satisfied. we’re satisfied.

From here, the east summit is a giant pyramid on the west- From here, the east summit is a giant pyramid on the western skyline. It is impressive, but not nearly as elegant as I had ern skyline. It is impressive, but not nearly as elegant as I had hoped. But when viewed in context, with the ten thousand or so hoped. But when viewed in context, with the ten thousand or so feet of ridge beneath us, I suppose I was suitably impressed. feet of ridge beneath us, I suppose I was suitably impressed.

May 14 May 14

Another rest day. The weather wasn’t terrible, but none of Another rest day. The weather wasn’t terrible, but none of us had been incredibly spry yesterday, and we are well past every- us had been incredibly spry yesterday, and we are well past everyone’s personal elevation records. So we write letters, read our one’s personal elevation records. So we write letters, read our books, play cards and just generally, well, rest. Plans were made books, play cards and just generally, well, rest. Plans were made for the big day, but there wasn’t really much to do. I mean, for the big day, but there wasn’t really much to do. I mean, what’s to say beyond “If it’s good, we go up”? There was a bit of what’s to say beyond “If it’s good, we go up”? There was a bit of a discussion concerning teamwork, but it was deemed unneces- a discussion concerning teamwork, but it was deemed unnecessary. We had climbed as a team so far, and would continue to do sary. We had climbed as a team so far, and would continue to do

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 110 110 so. so.

Oh yeah, it was Marty’s birthday. Before turning in, Greg Oh yeah, it was Marty’s birthday. Before turning in, Greg and I raided a week’s worth of gorp and picked out all the choco- and I raided a week’s worth of gorp and picked out all the chocolate and cranberries. I don’t know what you’d call the mess that late and cranberries. I don’t know what you’d call the mess that was created, but it sure tasted good! Even cleaning up was enjoy- was created, but it sure tasted good! Even cleaning up was enjoyable! Early to bed in preparation for our 4:30 weather check. able! Early to bed in preparation for our 4:30 weather check.

May 15 May 15

At 4:30, the weather stank. Not as bad at 5:30, but still At 4:30, the weather stank. Not as bad at 5:30, but still nothing to write home about. Around 7:00 Cam and JF came by nothing to write home about. Around 7:00 Cam and JF came by and get us out of bed. They’re heading up, and suggest we do the and get us out of bed. They’re heading up, and suggest we do the same. “Beats trying to sleep away another day, I suppose.” After same. “Beats trying to sleep away another day, I suppose.” After getting our gear together, we march down across the plateau and getting our gear together, we march down across the plateau and up to the ridge leading to the summit. The weather was variable, up to the ridge leading to the summit. The weather was variable, to say the least. It never truly whited out, but there were clouds to say the least. It never truly whited out, but there were clouds moving all about, and the wind wasn’t slowing down at all. This moving all about, and the wind wasn’t slowing down at all. This (and our late start) nixed the plans for the true summit. However, (and our late start) nixed the plans for the true summit. However, it never really got bad enough to merit turning around, so we kept it never really got bad enough to merit turning around, so we kept going. I was feeling the altitude at this point, and really slowed going. I was feeling the altitude at this point, and really slowed down. But the guys just let me set the pace, and I kept putting down. But the guys just let me set the pace, and I kept putting one foot in front of the other (with more breathes in between one foot in front of the other (with more breathes in between than I care to admit) and we ended up on top. than I care to admit) and we ended up on top.

We were above the clouds, but most of our surroundings We were above the clouds, but most of our surroundings were socked in. We could see to the north, but nothing big stood were socked in. We could see to the north, but nothing big stood out. To the south and west was a huge cloudbank, although the out. To the south and west was a huge cloudbank, although the true summit was peeking through. The East wasn’t any better, as true summit was peeking through. The East wasn’t any better, as all the peaks are substantially below us. After the obligatory sum- all the peaks are substantially below us. After the obligatory summit dogpile, and a handful of photos, we headed down. Gravity mit dogpile, and a handful of photos, we headed down. Gravity pretty much took over, and Jer and I found ourselves stumbling pretty much took over, and Jer and I found ourselves stumbling across the plateau to high camp. My head is pounding pretty across the plateau to high camp. My head is pounding pretty good (not enough water) and I didn’t really feel like eating. Greg good (not enough water) and I didn’t really feel like eating. Greg managed to force some soup down me, but I couldn’t handle managed to force some soup down me, but I couldn’t handle crackers. I was soon sawing logs. crackers. I was soon sawing logs. May 16 May 16

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 111 111 The weather has gone totally to crap. It’s probably a good The weather has gone totally to crap. It’s probably a good

Mt Logan, East Summit Mt Logan, East Summit Photo: Jeffrey Martin Photo: Jeffrey Martin thing we went up when we did. After a slow morning we pack up thing we went up when we did. After a slow morning we pack up and head down. The route is known, and gravity makes our work and head down. The route is known, and gravity makes our work much easier. The packs are shrinking and the air’s getting thicker much easier. The packs are shrinking and the air’s getting thicker with every step. We make good time until the upper knife ridge, with every step. We make good time until the upper knife ridge, which slows us down considerably, and we end up rappelling which slows us down considerably, and we end up rappelling down one pitch of ice. Back in our old tent site between the knife down one pitch of ice. Back in our old tent site between the knife ridges, there’s a bit of a celebration with Cam and JF, who have ridges, there’s a bit of a celebration with Cam and JF, who have followed us down. followed us down.

May 17 May 17

The weather’s really bad now. We descend to the lower The weather’s really bad now. We descend to the lower knife ridge slowly, and then pick up steam from there. There knife ridge slowly, and then pick up steam from there. There have been quite a few teams across it now, and we’ve got a verita- have been quite a few teams across it now, and we’ve got a veritable sidewalk to run across. The rock has melted out considerably, ble sidewalk to run across. The rock has melted out considerably, and what we considered tricky on the way up, we don’t even de- and what we considered tricky on the way up, we don’t even de- tect. We begin to entertain thoughts of reaching base camp to- tect. We begin to entertain thoughts of reaching base camp to-

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 112 112 night. The snow slope leading off the ridge looks ugly. We dig a night. The snow slope leading off the ridge looks ugly. We dig a pit, and decide it’s a go, but the snowpack changes considerably pit, and decide it’s a go, but the snowpack changes considerably within a ropelength of the ridge. Whatever - we’re on a mission. within a ropelength of the ridge. Whatever - we’re on a mission.

Crossing the bergschrund (which has grown substantially) Crossing the bergschrund (which has grown substantially) is rather exciting, and leaves Marty limping a bit. Visibility has is rather exciting, and leaves Marty limping a bit. Visibility has been off and on all day, but now it’s gone entirely. We manage to been off and on all day, but now it’s gone entirely. We manage to find our skis, and suit up for the haul back to base camp. While find our skis, and suit up for the haul back to base camp. While weaving our way back through the crevasses, there are wands and weaving our way back through the crevasses, there are wands and old tracks spaced close enough that navigation is somewhat possi- old tracks spaced close enough that navigation is somewhat possible. However, once we’re onto the glacier proper, the wands are ble. However, once we’re onto the glacier proper, the wands are spaced too far apart and there’s absolutely nothing to get a bear- spaced too far apart and there’s absolutely nothing to get a bearing against. After trying to take bearings on clouds of spindrift ing against. After trying to take bearings on clouds of spindrift and shadows, I end up just skiing along while staring at the com- and shadows, I end up just skiing along while staring at the compass in my hand. To make a long story short, I ended up skiing pass in my hand. To make a long story short, I ended up skiing straight into the only crevasse between us and base camp. After straight into the only crevasse between us and base camp. After sorting things out, I flatly refused to lead any further in these con- sorting things out, I flatly refused to lead any further in these conditions. No one else really wanted to either, so although we were ditions. No one else really wanted to either, so although we were only about an hour away from base camp, we crashed. only about an hour away from base camp, we crashed.

May 18 May 18

The visibility has improved substantially, and we hit base The visibility has improved substantially, and we hit base camp by 10:00. Feast. We get the tents up and dig a huge camp by 10:00. Feast. We get the tents up and dig a huge kitchen. Then we just lay into the cache. We managed to raise kitchen. Then we just lay into the cache. We managed to raise Andy on the radio. He agreed to meet us at Augusta Base camp Andy on the radio. He agreed to meet us at Augusta Base camp in ten days, so we loaded up the sleds and headed out the next in ten days, so we loaded up the sleds and headed out the next day. day.

You've probably heard the story. After our Augusta jaunt, You've probably heard the story. After our Augusta jaunt, we ended up spending about ten days waiting to fly out. We ate we ended up spending about ten days waiting to fly out. We ate all of our food, and had to rely on the generosity of other teams at all of our food, and had to rely on the generosity of other teams at the East Ridge base camp. You know you’ve been to a low place the East Ridge base camp. You know you’ve been to a low place when you start to beg, and your standard of living goes up. when you start to beg, and your standard of living goes up.

I’d have to say that this was far and away the most memo- I’d have to say that this was far and away the most memorable trip I’ve ever done. We chose an objective with an uncertain rable trip I’ve ever done. We chose an objective with an uncertain outcome and pulled it off. I learned a lot about myself and the outcome and pulled it off. I learned a lot about myself and the

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 113 113 people I was with. Better yet, we can honestly say we’re all still people I was with. Better yet, we can honestly say we’re all still good friends. I don't need to spew a bunch of clichés here. The good friends. I don't need to spew a bunch of clichés here. The best way to learn something is to get out and do it. So go out best way to learn something is to get out and do it. So go out there and bite off more than you think you can chew. You’d be there and bite off more than you think you can chew. You’d be amazed at what you can swallow. amazed at what you can swallow.

Photo: Jeremy Frimer Photo: Jeremy Frimer

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Neophyte Mountaineers: Neophyte Mountaineers: five young climbers learn a thing five young climbers learn a thing or two in the St. Elias or two in the St. Elias Jeff Martin Jeff Martin

I believe in learning to swim by jumping in the deep end. I I believe in learning to swim by jumping in the deep end. I suppose it's a good idea to get some pointers ahead of time, but I suppose it's a good idea to get some pointers ahead of time, but I figure anyone who can keep from panicking will do fine. I also figure anyone who can keep from panicking will do fine. I also believe in learning to climb by tying in and heading for the hills. believe in learning to climb by tying in and heading for the hills. It important to understand the basics of rope work, wilderness It important to understand the basics of rope work, wilderness travel and the like, but good judgement and a good attitude are travel and the like, but good judgement and a good attitude are the most important things. the most important things.

When the boys and I started talking about planning a trip When the boys and I started talking about planning a trip for the summer of '99 I'd never been on a big mountain and I had for the summer of '99 I'd never been on a big mountain and I had very little winter rock and ice climbing experience. Jer had very little winter rock and ice climbing experience. Jer had climbed a few big hills, and the rest of us felt we could hold our climbed a few big hills, and the rest of us felt we could hold our own, but we were by no means experienced mountaineers. We own, but we were by no means experienced mountaineers. We chose to go to the St. Elias Range anyway. The East Ridge on the chose to go to the St. Elias Range anyway. The East Ridge on the mighty Mt Logan would be our main objective. Our attitude was mighty Mt Logan would be our main objective. Our attitude was unstoppable, and our collective judgement should be good unstoppable, and our collective judgement should be good enough. I figured we knew enough, and knew each other well enough. I figured we knew enough, and knew each other well enough that we could figure things out along the way. enough that we could figure things out along the way.

Our trip up Mt Logan went off without a hitch. The Our trip up Mt Logan went off without a hitch. The bergschrund and lower rock sections were overcome with only bergschrund and lower rock sections were overcome with only minor difficulty. The upper snow slopes, ice pitches and knife minor difficulty. The upper snow slopes, ice pitches and knife ridges kept us on our toes, but provided relatively safe passage. ridges kept us on our toes, but provided relatively safe passage. The weather didn't try to throw us off the mountain, the crevasses The weather didn't try to throw us off the mountain, the crevasses didn't open suddenly underfoot and swallow us whole, and the didn't open suddenly underfoot and swallow us whole, and the altitude couldn't suck the life out of us. It was a spectacular, chal- altitude couldn't suck the life out of us. It was a spectacular, challenging climb and I was pretty pleased we found our way up and lenging climb and I was pretty pleased we found our way up and back without meeting any big surprises. back without meeting any big surprises.

With the energy and excitement that came from our suc- With the energy and excitement that came from our success on Logan we immediately turned our sights on our second cess on Logan we immediately turned our sights on our second objective, the north ridge on Mt. Augusta. We had ten days to ski objective, the north ridge on Mt. Augusta. We had ten days to ski

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 115 115 Sunset on Mt Agusta’s North Ridge Sunset on Mt Agusta’s North Ridge Photo: Jeffrey Martin Photo: Jeffrey Martin the 45 km approach and climb the mountain before we had to the 45 km approach and climb the mountain before we had to catch a plane home again. Everyone felt that, weather permitting, catch a plane home again. Everyone felt that, weather permitting, we would have lots of time. However, unlike our route on Logan, we would have lots of time. However, unlike our route on Logan, we really didn't know anything about Augusta's north ridge. We we really didn't know anything about Augusta's north ridge. We knew it had been climbed, probably five or six times, but we had knew it had been climbed, probably five or six times, but we had no real idea of how hard it would be. The uncertainty surround- no real idea of how hard it would be. The uncertainty surrounding Augusta made it all the more exciting for me. ing Augusta made it all the more exciting for me.

The ski over to Mt. Augusta was long. It was also incredi- The ski over to Mt. Augusta was long. It was also incredibly scenic, and we did have some troubles navigating over Water bly scenic, and we did have some troubles navigating over Water Pass in a white out, but the length really sticks out in my mind Pass in a white out, but the length really sticks out in my mind The mountains and glaciers of the St. Elias are so big that you The mountains and glaciers of the St. Elias are so big that you need to move for two or three hours just to notice that the scen- need to move for two or three hours just to notice that the scenery was changing. We scheduled rest stops by the clock, stopping ery was changing. We scheduled rest stops by the clock, stopping only after an hour or two on the go. It was impossible to set little only after an hour or two on the go. It was impossible to set little goals like: "Oh, let’s ski to that pass, or maybe to that big rock goals like: "Oh, let’s ski to that pass, or maybe to that big rock and then take a break", because the immediate landscape was a and then take a break", because the immediate landscape was a blank, wide open whiteness and the mountains just didn't seem to blank, wide open whiteness and the mountains just didn't seem to get any closer. get any closer.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 116 116 We stopped on the second day of travel a few kilometres We stopped on the second day of travel a few kilometres north east of Mt Augusta. We spent the next day resting and north east of Mt Augusta. We spent the next day resting and pondering our route. Augusta's north ridge reaches several kilo- pondering our route. Augusta's north ridge reaches several kilometres out into the Seward glacier, but we could gain it at a col metres out into the Seward glacier, but we could gain it at a col much closer to the mountain. The map suggested the col could much closer to the mountain. The map suggested the col could be accessed from either side, but from our camp we could only be accessed from either side, but from our camp we could only see the approach on the side close to us. It looked pretty good, see the approach on the side close to us. It looked pretty good, but we couldn't really tell how close to Augusta's north face we but we couldn't really tell how close to Augusta's north face we would have to go, and how big a hazard the hanging glaciers on would have to go, and how big a hazard the hanging glaciers on that face would be. We decided to approach the col from the side that face would be. We decided to approach the col from the side facing us. If it looked hairy from up close we would to carry on facing us. If it looked hairy from up close we would to carry on to the other side. to the other side.

It was a hot and sunny morning when we struck camp and It was a hot and sunny morning when we struck camp and headed up toward Augusta. I had stripped right down and was headed up toward Augusta. I had stripped right down and was sweating buckets within the first hour of travel. The closer I got sweating buckets within the first hour of travel. The closer I got to the mountain the more menacing the glaciers on the north face to the mountain the more menacing the glaciers on the north face looked. We wouldn't have to cross right under them, but the ava- looked. We wouldn't have to cross right under them, but the avalanche hazard just seemed too high. When I'd seen enough I lanche hazard just seemed too high. When I'd seen enough I turned to speak to Greg and just as the words "I don't like it" left turned to speak to Greg and just as the words "I don't like it" left my lips a monster avalanche came down. My back was turned my lips a monster avalanche came down. My back was turned when I heard it rumble but I had time to turn and face it before it when I heard it rumble but I had time to turn and face it before it really picked up speed. I'm not sure how to classify avalanches, really picked up speed. I'm not sure how to classify avalanches, but this was the "annihilate the better part of a city block" variety. but this was the "annihilate the better part of a city block" variety. Everyone agreed to take a look at the other side of the col. Everyone agreed to take a look at the other side of the col.

We made our way around the toe of the ridge and up to- We made our way around the toe of the ridge and up towards the other side of the col. Just as our route started to come wards the other side of the col. Just as our route started to come into view another monster avalanche came down in front of us. into view another monster avalanche came down in front of us. This one didn't actually cross our intended path, and neither did This one didn't actually cross our intended path, and neither did the five or six other slides that came down that afternoon, but it the five or six other slides that came down that afternoon, but it was clear the mountain wanted nothing of us that day. It was just was clear the mountain wanted nothing of us that day. It was just too hot and humid to go anywhere near a big snow and ice face. too hot and humid to go anywhere near a big snow and ice face. We set up a camp well back on the glacier. We set up a camp well back on the glacier.

At about nine or ten o'clock that night Marty and I went up At about nine or ten o'clock that night Marty and I went up to check out the col. It had cooled down dramatically and the to check out the col. It had cooled down dramatically and the rumble of avalanches hadn't been heard in over an hour. Just as rumble of avalanches hadn't been heard in over an hour. Just as

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 117 117 we got to where we could see what we needed we heard a rumble we got to where we could see what we needed we heard a rumble off in the distance. It seemed so far off we thought nothing of it. off in the distance. It seemed so far off we thought nothing of it. Then, after a minute of two of silence a cold, wet wind came up Then, after a minute of two of silence a cold, wet wind came up from the direction of the rumble. It brought with it a thick, silent from the direction of the rumble. It brought with it a thick, silent cloud of powder snow. The avalanche's dying breath had carried cloud of powder snow. The avalanche's dying breath had carried all the way across the glacier to blow on us. With a few quick all the way across the glacier to blow on us. With a few quick words Marty and I turned and headed back to camp. words Marty and I turned and headed back to camp.

The whole gang was packed and on the go by five the next The whole gang was packed and on the go by five the next

“...it was clear the mountain wanted nothing of us that day.” “...it was clear the mountain wanted nothing of us that day.” Photo: Jeffrey Martin Photo: Jeffrey Martin morning. It had been a clear night and the air was now frightfully morning. It had been a clear night and the air was now frightfully cold. Within an hour we were kicking steps up hard snow to gain cold. Within an hour we were kicking steps up hard snow to gain Augusta's north ridge. Augusta's north ridge.

The skies were as blue and the sun as hot as the day before, The skies were as blue and the sun as hot as the day before, but there was the first hint of high, sweeping clouds overhead. but there was the first hint of high, sweeping clouds overhead. We all knew they were cirrus clouds, a sign of incoming weather, We all knew they were cirrus clouds, a sign of incoming weather, but no one voiced a feeling of concern. We were trying to climb a but no one voiced a feeling of concern. We were trying to climb a multi-day route on a big mountain, so shouldn't the threat of multi-day route on a big mountain, so shouldn't the threat of changing weather been a major concern? Perhaps if we had more changing weather been a major concern? Perhaps if we had more experience it would have been. experience it would have been.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 118 118

Mt. Augusta's north ridge is far more glaciated than what Mt. Augusta's north ridge is far more glaciated than what we had seen on Logan. While we had only had to cross two we had seen on Logan. While we had only had to cross two bergschrunds on Logan, on Augusta we had to negotiate another bergschrunds on Logan, on Augusta we had to negotiate another open slot every time the grade of the slope changed. The deep, open slot every time the grade of the slope changed. The deep, loose snow made this quite an undertaking. In fact the deep snow loose snow made this quite an undertaking. In fact the deep snow was a concern in itself. For one thing, the thigh deep trail break- was a concern in itself. For one thing, the thigh deep trail breaking took a bit of an effort, and for another we were a little worried ing took a bit of an effort, and for another we were a little worried that the whole ridge might avalanche beneath us. The ridge we that the whole ridge might avalanche beneath us. The ridge we were climbing was not nearly as steep as the slopes that had slid were climbing was not nearly as steep as the slopes that had slid the day before, but stability was still a bit of a concern. At a quick the day before, but stability was still a bit of a concern. At a quick snack break at about ten o'clock in the morning I took the time to snack break at about ten o'clock in the morning I took the time to dig a snow pit and found the most uniform snowpack I'd ever dig a snow pit and found the most uniform snowpack I'd ever seen. The snow changed seamlessly from light powder to stiff seen. The snow changed seamlessly from light powder to stiff styrofoam in about six feet. There was not a layer to be found. styrofoam in about six feet. There was not a layer to be found. Everyone felt pretty good about that so we carried on, but not be- Everyone felt pretty good about that so we carried on, but not before someone said: "Hey, I wonder if the snow is so uniform before someone said: "Hey, I wonder if the snow is so uniform because it fell all in one dump?" cause it fell all in one dump?"

At about two o'clock in the afternoon we came to an ugly, At about two o'clock in the afternoon we came to an ugly, shattered icefall. Tall, thin seracs stood side to side like a domino shattered icefall. Tall, thin seracs stood side to side like a domino set arranged so as to fall in all directions at once. The largest block set arranged so as to fall in all directions at once. The largest block of snow was easily eight meters tall and forty meters long but only of snow was easily eight meters tall and forty meters long but only three meters wide. When we hopped up top to get a better look three meters wide. When we hopped up top to get a better look around Jer mentioned that it would have made spectacular camp- around Jer mentioned that it would have made spectacular campsite if not for the threat of sudden collapse. The icefall would site if not for the threat of sudden collapse. The icefall would have made for some spectacular pictures as well, except that the have made for some spectacular pictures as well, except that the light had become quite flat by this time in the afternoon. The sky light had become quite flat by this time in the afternoon. The sky was entirely hazed over. was entirely hazed over.

Navigating the icefall proved to be quite a challenge. Greg Navigating the icefall proved to be quite a challenge. Greg found a route down into a relatively open area and then Jay and I found a route down into a relatively open area and then Jay and I picked our way over to the far side. Jay, who was in the lead, said picked our way over to the far side. Jay, who was in the lead, said he felt like Indiana Jones negotiating the second challenge at the he felt like Indiana Jones negotiating the second challenge at the temple of the holy grail; if he chose wisely his foot would find temple of the holy grail; if he chose wisely his foot would find solid ground, but if he chose poorly his foot would punch solid ground, but if he chose poorly his foot would punch through a thin crust of snow into a bottomless pit. After an hour through a thin crust of snow into a bottomless pit. After an hour or so of poking around we found a blister of ice that bridged a or so of poking around we found a blister of ice that bridged a

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 119 119 crevasse at the back of the icefall and gave us access to the snow crevasse at the back of the icefall and gave us access to the snow wall on the far side. The chunk of ice was a little sketchy, how- wall on the far side. The chunk of ice was a little sketchy, however, so we used the only fixed belay of the entire trip when cross- ever, so we used the only fixed belay of the entire trip when crossing it. ing it.

I had the honour of leading out of the icefall and building I had the honour of leading out of the icefall and building the anchor at the top. I remember checking my watch just as I sat the anchor at the top. I remember checking my watch just as I sat down to belay Jay across. It was four o'clock. The skies were down to belay Jay across. It was four o'clock. The skies were thick. Just as Jay started moving it started to snow, hard. In less thick. Just as Jay started moving it started to snow, hard. In less than a minute I couldn't see my dark green pants through the than a minute I couldn't see my dark green pants through the snow that had fallen. By the time everyone was up with me we snow that had fallen. By the time everyone was up with me we had full blown blizzard on our hands. Wet concrete was coming had full blown blizzard on our hands. Wet concrete was coming down so fast we could hardly see each other at a rope's length. down so fast we could hardly see each other at a rope's length. "Hey guys," Jeremy laughed, "this is just like ski touring back "Hey guys," Jeremy laughed, "this is just like ski touring back home!" home!"

It was clear we had to set camp, but where? There was no It was clear we had to set camp, but where? There was no flat ground for a fair distance below us. There might be flat flat ground for a fair distance below us. There might be flat ground above, but we didn't know. We chose to dig a platform ground above, but we didn't know. We chose to dig a platform out of the thirty-degree slope right at the crest of the ridge. It out of the thirty-degree slope right at the crest of the ridge. It wasn't an ideal spot, but it minimised the avalanche hazard. We wasn't an ideal spot, but it minimised the avalanche hazard. We figured the snow was more likely to slide off one side of the ridge figured the snow was more likely to slide off one side of the ridge than roll down the crest. Two hours work had us in tents and than roll down the crest. Two hours work had us in tents and working on dinner. working on dinner.

I remember lingering in my sleeping bag after dinner, not I remember lingering in my sleeping bag after dinner, not quite ready to go to sleep. I was quite satisfied with how the day quite ready to go to sleep. I was quite satisfied with how the day had gone: up at five in the morning, moving hard all day, tricky had gone: up at five in the morning, moving hard all day, tricky obstacles met and overcome. I eventually rolled over and closed obstacles met and overcome. I eventually rolled over and closed my eyes to sleep, but it seems the mountain had another idea. my eyes to sleep, but it seems the mountain had another idea. The fresh snow that had fallen on the slope above our tents The fresh snow that had fallen on the slope above our tents sluffed off. There was a low hissing sound, the tent walls sagged sluffed off. There was a low hissing sound, the tent walls sagged and it was suddenly quite dark. I could just make out the muffled and it was suddenly quite dark. I could just make out the muffled sound of Marty screaming from the other tent. It seems his tent sound of Marty screaming from the other tent. It seems his tent hadn't just been buried by the sluff but had collapsed and had hadn't just been buried by the sluff but had collapsed and had pinned him to the ground. I pulled on some clothing and went pinned him to the ground. I pulled on some clothing and went outside to dig. outside to dig.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 120 120 The storm was swirling around us like a milk shake in a The storm was swirling around us like a milk shake in a blender. Each gust of wind would kick up the spindrift so thick I blender. Each gust of wind would kick up the spindrift so thick I couldn't see my own hands. It was kind of a bummer to be couldn't see my own hands. It was kind of a bummer to be dragged out of bed to deal with the worst blizzards of my life, but dragged out of bed to deal with the worst blizzards of my life, but somehow it wasn't the least bit distressing. I remember catching somehow it wasn't the least bit distressing. I remember catching Marty's eye as we were digging the tents out and we both broke Marty's eye as we were digging the tents out and we both broke out laughing. I guess we knew we could look after each other so out laughing. I guess we knew we could look after each other so there was nothing to do but laugh at the situation. The five of us there was nothing to do but laugh at the situation. The five of us spent the next two or three hours digging out and repairing the spent the next two or three hours digging out and repairing the tents and then chopping a cave back into the ridge to hide them tents and then chopping a cave back into the ridge to hide them in. We weren't able to completely hide the tents, however, be- in. We weren't able to completely hide the tents, however, because we punched through the wall of a crevasse at the back of cause we punched through the wall of a crevasse at the back of the cave. When we finally got to bed there was a blue glow from the cave. When we finally got to bed there was a blue glow from the crevasse shining through the wall of the tent. We slept until the crevasse shining through the wall of the tent. We slept until the storm subsided sometime after noon the next day. the storm subsided sometime after noon the next day.

With the added snow and the day lost to weather we had a With the added snow and the day lost to weather we had a choice to make. We could keep climbing but the new snow would choice to make. We could keep climbing but the new snow would certainly add to the difficulty if not the hazard we would face. We certainly add to the difficulty if not the hazard we would face. We could just sit and wait for the new snow to settle and hope that could just sit and wait for the new snow to settle and hope that the weather would improve dramatically. We could also pack up, the weather would improve dramatically. We could also pack up, descend immediately and not risk the chance that another dump descend immediately and not risk the chance that another dump of snow. The group was split on the issue. Greg, Martin and I all of snow. The group was split on the issue. Greg, Martin and I all wanted to keep climbing if the weather and snow conditions al- wanted to keep climbing if the weather and snow conditions allowed. Jer felt that spending any more time on the mountain was lowed. Jer felt that spending any more time on the mountain was to risk further complications and possibly missing our ride home. to risk further complications and possibly missing our ride home. Jay sat somewhere in the middle. Jay sat somewhere in the middle.

We decided to split the group: Greg, Martin and I would We decided to split the group: Greg, Martin and I would assess the conditions at daybreak the next day and push for the assess the conditions at daybreak the next day and push for the summit if we felt it was safe. Jay and Jer would descend, weather summit if we felt it was safe. Jay and Jer would descend, weather permitting. No one was pleased to be splitting the group, in fact permitting. No one was pleased to be splitting the group, in fact before this I could not have imagined how splitting the group before this I could not have imagined how splitting the group could be anything less than tragic, but it seemed to be the best could be anything less than tragic, but it seemed to be the best choice. It didn't snow anymore that night. choice. It didn't snow anymore that night.

When the sun broke the horizon to the north east the next When the sun broke the horizon to the north east the next morning the skies looked less than perfect. It wasn't the bomber morning the skies looked less than perfect. It wasn't the bomber

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 121 121 day we were hoping for, but it was worth getting out of bed for. day we were hoping for, but it was worth getting out of bed for. This was the first day we'd had reason to get out of bed before This was the first day we'd had reason to get out of bed before the sun had warmed things up a little and it was frightfully cold. the sun had warmed things up a little and it was frightfully cold. We rushed to get moving but had to fight cold, stiff hands. I lead We rushed to get moving but had to fight cold, stiff hands. I lead out of camp at twenty to six. out of camp at twenty to six.

For the first few hundred meters the snow was ridiculously For the first few hundred meters the snow was ridiculously deep. My technique was to dig a trench as deep and as far in deep. My technique was to dig a trench as deep and as far in front of me as I could and then to step up into it. The snow at front of me as I could and then to step up into it. The snow at the front of trench came up to mid-chest. At the back of the rope the front of trench came up to mid-chest. At the back of the rope with the trail already broken by two people the snow was still with the trail already broken by two people the snow was still thigh deep. Greg took over after an hour and used a shovel to dig thigh deep. Greg took over after an hour and used a shovel to dig his way uphill. It was super fun to be out in such incredible snow his way uphill. It was super fun to be out in such incredible snow but the summit, 1800 meters above our camp, would have been but the summit, 1800 meters above our camp, would have been totally unattainable at the rate we were moving. Fortunately it totally unattainable at the rate we were moving. Fortunately it firmed up considerably as we crossed the last bergschrund and the firmed up considerably as we crossed the last bergschrund and the grade got much steeper. grade got much steeper.

The climbing above the bergschrund was on spectacular The climbing above the bergschrund was on spectacular mixed snow and ice. We were totally psyched by the incredible mixed snow and ice. We were totally psyched by the incredible situation and climbed very quickly. Unfortunately clouds were situation and climbed very quickly. Unfortunately clouds were starting to creep across the sky from the south. I raised some con- starting to creep across the sky from the south. I raised some concerns about the weather and the others tried to discuss it, but cerns about the weather and the others tried to discuss it, but there was really nothing to say. there was really nothing to say.

"How do you feel about the weather?" "How do you feel about the weather?" "It doesn't look too bad yet." "It doesn't look too bad yet." "Do you think we should be worried? Is something moving in?" "Do you think we should be worried? Is something moving in?" "I don't know." "I don't know." "Me neither, lets keep going." "Me neither, lets keep going."

Would more experienced mountaineers have understood Would more experienced mountaineers have understood something and turned back? Perhaps they would have under- something and turned back? Perhaps they would have understood something and kept going. Being inexperienced mountain- stood something and kept going. Being inexperienced mountaineers we didn't know. With no reason to turn back we kept mov- eers we didn't know. With no reason to turn back we kept moving. ing.

At eleven o'clock we were past the steep section on the At eleven o'clock we were past the steep section on the

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 122 122 ridge. What we'd just climbed was steep and broad, more like a ridge. What we'd just climbed was steep and broad, more like a face then a ridge, but what lay before us was low and narrow, like face then a ridge, but what lay before us was low and narrow, like a sidewalk leading to the summit. The ridge was about three feet a sidewalk leading to the summit. The ridge was about three feet wide with seventy degree drops off to either side and rose in a wide with seventy degree drops off to either side and rose in a gentle arc to the summit. We still had six hundred meters of ele- gentle arc to the summit. We still had six hundred meters of elevation to gain but it looked really straightforward. Martin tied in vation to gain but it looked really straightforward. Martin tied in to the end of the rope and took off as fast as he could. to the end of the rope and took off as fast as he could.

As we raced along the ridge I began to feel for the first As we raced along the ridge I began to feel for the first time the toll the trip was having on by body. The soreness and time the toll the trip was having on by body. The soreness and fatigue in my legs began to make itself known, but my excitement fatigue in my legs began to make itself known, but my excitement kept it at bay. In an hour and a half we gained another three hun- kept it at bay. In an hour and a half we gained another three hundred meters. dred meters.

The whole time we moved along the upper ridge a bank of The whole time we moved along the upper ridge a bank of thick, grey clouds sat in waiting just behind the summit. It was as thick, grey clouds sat in waiting just behind the summit. It was as if a great cat lay crouched behind the grass waiting for its prey to if a great cat lay crouched behind the grass waiting for its prey to come within reach. We could see the cat's tail slowly waving high come within reach. We could see the cat's tail slowly waving high above our heads. As we got within an hour of the summit the cat above our heads. As we got within an hour of the summit the cat pounced and the weather was suddenly very bad. pounced and the weather was suddenly very bad.

Greg, Marty and I lingered for a while in the blowing storm Greg, Marty and I lingered for a while in the blowing storm not sure what to do. Maybe we thought it would blow itself out, not sure what to do. Maybe we thought it would blow itself out, but more likely we just didn't want to turn back so close from the but more likely we just didn't want to turn back so close from the summit. It seemed so pointless to stop! The bomb was built and summit. It seemed so pointless to stop! The bomb was built and it was hidden in the baby carriage which was parked beside the it was hidden in the baby carriage which was parked beside the embassy and all that had to do now was blow up! We were so embassy and all that had to do now was blow up! We were so close! But unlike the bomb that doesn't go off, it was worth get- close! But unlike the bomb that doesn't go off, it was worth getting as far as we did. We'd had our fun and it was time to turn ting as far as we did. We'd had our fun and it was time to turn around if we ever wanted to have any more. I snapped a might-as around if we ever wanted to have any more. I snapped a might-as -well-be-on-the-summit picture and started back down. -well-be-on-the-summit picture and started back down.

The descent was an adventure in itself. The whiteout made The descent was an adventure in itself. The whiteout made navigation tricky but the deep snow allowed us to jump blindly navigation tricky but the deep snow allowed us to jump blindly across crevasses without worrying about the landing. We stopped across crevasses without worrying about the landing. We stopped to collect our camp at half past two and continued down the to collect our camp at half past two and continued down the mountain, understanding that things really could get worse. The mountain, understanding that things really could get worse. The visibility didn't improve until we were off the mountain and half visibility didn't improve until we were off the mountain and half

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 123 123 way to base camp. We found Jay and Jer waiting in way to base camp. We found Jay and Jer waiting in the sun at about six thirty. It was all laughs and story telling for the sun at about six thirty. It was all laughs and story telling for the next half hour. We ate lots and slept hard that night. the next half hour. We ate lots and slept hard that night.

Well, I guess we learned a thing or two about mountaineer- Well, I guess we learned a thing or two about mountaineering, but there was another lesson waiting for us: you might be able ing, but there was another lesson waiting for us: you might be able to climb in marginal weather but you sure can't fly. The weather to climb in marginal weather but you sure can't fly. The weather wasn't even bad where we were sitting, but it must have been wasn't even bad where we were sitting, but it must have been pretty poor at the east end of the range because we spent the next pretty poor at the east end of the range because we spent the next ten or twelve days waiting for the buzz of an incoming airplane. ten or twelve days waiting for the buzz of an incoming airplane. Favourite pastimes included reading books a second time, skiing Favourite pastimes included reading books a second time, skiing off into the distance and then back again, and wishing we had off into the distance and then back again, and wishing we had more to eat. One afternoon I lay perfectly still for almost four more to eat. One afternoon I lay perfectly still for almost four hours without falling asleep. In the end we skied back to Logan's hours without falling asleep. In the end we skied back to Logan's east ridge to bum food and borrow a radio from whoever might east ridge to bum food and borrow a radio from whoever might be waiting there. The weather eventually cleared up and we were be waiting there. The weather eventually cleared up and we were carried home. carried home.

During the first few hours of driving back to Vancouver I During the first few hours of driving back to Vancouver I toyed with the idea of forgetting the job for which I was already toyed with the idea of forgetting the job for which I was already more than a week late, and heading back into the hills. It was a more than a week late, and heading back into the hills. It was a good trip. good trip.

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An attempt at Mt. Rexford An attempt at Mt. Rexford (Or my first real Alpine experience) (Or my first real Alpine experience) Adrian Bolden Adrian Bolden

For all you seasoned alpinists, this is going to seem a trivial For all you seasoned alpinists, this is going to seem a trivial story without any real achievement. But remember back to your story without any real achievement. But remember back to your first mountain adventure, how serious it seemed, how you became first mountain adventure, how serious it seemed, how you became totally hooked on mountaineering. totally hooked on mountaineering.

The talk had floated around the office for weeks. Dan was The talk had floated around the office for weeks. Dan was looking to burn off some pounds. What better way than a late looking to burn off some pounds. What better way than a late winter mountaineering trip. Did I want to try Mt Rexford? Sure, winter mountaineering trip. Did I want to try Mt Rexford? Sure, I’ll give it a try. My mountaineering experience consisted of an ex- I’ll give it a try. My mountaineering experience consisted of an extended 4 day trip to Strathcona to basically view the Golden tended 4 day trip to Strathcona to basically view the Golden Hinde. Much time was spent sleeping and eating our huge stock Hinde. Much time was spent sleeping and eating our huge stock of food. I was assured Mt. Rexford would be long, but easy. of food. I was assured Mt. Rexford would be long, but easy.

A trip was organised. The night before the trip we paid the A trip was organised. The night before the trip we paid the co-op rental department a visit. Snowshoes for all! Interesting co-op rental department a visit. Snowshoes for all! Interesting contraptions. I had never used them before. contraptions. I had never used them before.

We set out a little late. Dan and Octavian were waiting for We set out a little late. Dan and Octavian were waiting for me. We reached the fish hatchery gate at 9 AM. Locked. After me. We reached the fish hatchery gate at 9 AM. Locked. After much debate on how to remove the gate, a fisheries guy showed much debate on how to remove the gate, a fisheries guy showed up in his pickup. He kindly drove us as far as he could, shaving 6 up in his pickup. He kindly drove us as far as he could, shaving 6 km or so from the approach. He explained that locking the gate km or so from the approach. He explained that locking the gate prevents people from getting in and messing with the fish traps. prevents people from getting in and messing with the fish traps. That would explain the dirt-bike tracks everywhere. That would explain the dirt-bike tracks everywhere.

We notice we are missing some equipment, Octavian has We notice we are missing some equipment, Octavian has forgotten his gaiters, and curses for about 10 minutes. We have forgotten his gaiters, and curses for about 10 minutes. We have two headlamps, one is mine (more later) and Octavian’s is low on two headlamps, one is mine (more later) and Octavian’s is low on batteries. Dan seemed hell bent on losing weight, he had only batteries. Dan seemed hell bent on losing weight, he had only brought two sandwiches. We did have more than enough food brought two sandwiches. We did have more than enough food between us all, including a disproportionate amount of pot noo- between us all, including a disproportionate amount of pot noodles. dles.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 125 125 We started up the approach road, changed to snowshoes We started up the approach road, changed to snowshoes and continued. The snow was good for about an hour. Even with and continued. The snow was good for about an hour. Even with the co-op MSR snowshoes with the big tails, we were sinking in the co-op MSR snowshoes with the big tails, we were sinking in about 5 inches. There was 10 km of this to slog through. We about 5 inches. There was 10 km of this to slog through. We planned to be out for 3 days, and had food and fuel for at least planned to be out for 3 days, and had food and fuel for at least this. So much for light and fast! this. So much for light and fast!

At 2 PM we arrived across from Rexford. Mountains al- At 2 PM we arrived across from Rexford. Mountains always look small from a distance. We had heard that the summit ways look small from a distance. We had heard that the summit buttress takes a full day up and back, which put its size in better buttress takes a full day up and back, which put its size in better perspective. We crossed the river on the branches of a tree on the perspective. We crossed the river on the branches of a tree on the opposite bank that leaned over. If you supported yourself with opposite bank that leaned over. If you supported yourself with enough branches under the snowshoes, you remained about an enough branches under the snowshoes, you remained about an inch above the water. Spooky. Now the real fun begins. inch above the water. Spooky. Now the real fun begins.

The NW Buttress of Rexford does not completely meet the The NW Buttress of Rexford does not completely meet the ground. It bluffs out and forms a wall with continual small ava- ground. It bluffs out and forms a wall with continual small avalanches on it. The route to the bottom of the buttress starts up lanches on it. The route to the bottom of the buttress starts up the left of this wall, and follows a line of trees above the wall to the left of this wall, and follows a line of trees above the wall to the start of the buttress proper. Camping at the start of the but- the start of the buttress proper. Camping at the start of the buttress was our goal. tress was our goal.

We made a bee line straight up to a relatively sheltered cor- We made a bee line straight up to a relatively sheltered corner to the left of the wall. The snow was very wet and heavy. The ner to the left of the wall. The snow was very wet and heavy. The avalanches coming down the main chute to the left of the buttress avalanches coming down the main chute to the left of the buttress were slow and soggy. Watching one come down was like watching were slow and soggy. Watching one come down was like watching Hawaiian lava flows on PBS, slowly crossing roads, eating cars. Hawaiian lava flows on PBS, slowly crossing roads, eating cars. Changing to crampons from snowshoes was anticlimactic. For the Changing to crampons from snowshoes was anticlimactic. For the first few hundred feet, we were sinking in to our knees. We first few hundred feet, we were sinking in to our knees. We started up a tree lined gully. All the trees were missing their uphill started up a tree lined gully. All the trees were missing their uphill branches, or were snapped off. Hmmm… very artistic. branches, or were snapped off. Hmmm… very artistic.

The slope continued to get steeper until we were on 60+ The slope continued to get steeper until we were on 60+ degree snow. Octavian was about a foot ahead of me, and his degree snow. Octavian was about a foot ahead of me, and his crampons were at my head level. Night was falling. The ledge de- crampons were at my head level. Night was falling. The ledge described in the guidebook was nowhere to be seen. I was starting scribed in the guidebook was nowhere to be seen. I was starting to get spooked, so I suggested we rope up. Dan was having trou- to get spooked, so I suggested we rope up. Dan was having trouble continuing up the slope. I broke out my headlamp, really the ble continuing up the slope. I broke out my headlamp, really the

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 126 126 only useful one since Octavian’s battery was dying a slow Duracell only useful one since Octavian’s battery was dying a slow Duracell death. death.

A note about my headlamp. I am an electronics geek. Need A note about my headlamp. I am an electronics geek. Need I say more? Anyway, I have a Sony lithium-ion camcorder battery I say more? Anyway, I have a Sony lithium-ion camcorder battery pack wired to a Petzl Micro. The pack attaches to the back of the pack wired to a Petzl Micro. The pack attaches to the back of the headlamp with Velcro, while the battery compartment in the front headlamp with Velcro, while the battery compartment in the front is filled with a homebrew DC-DC switching converter made out is filled with a homebrew DC-DC switching converter made out of an LM317 (VERY non-textbook application). You can faintly of an LM317 (VERY non-textbook application). You can faintly hear the DC-DC converter singing at about 20 kHz, when it is hear the DC-DC converter singing at about 20 kHz, when it is working. If it is not working, you can hear me smacking the head- working. If it is not working, you can hear me smacking the headlamp and cursing my “inventiveness”. This occurs for most of the lamp and cursing my “inventiveness”. This occurs for most of the night. I imagine the headlamp would also make a dandy avalanche night. I imagine the headlamp would also make a dandy avalanche transceiver in a pinch. Did I mention we didn’t have these either? transceiver in a pinch. Did I mention we didn’t have these either? (it turned out later that the problem was with the bulb contact, (it turned out later that the problem was with the bulb contact, not my circuit.) not my circuit.)

It is now 7 PM or so. It is now 7 PM or so.

We decide to continue upward, or should I say they decide We decide to continue upward, or should I say they decide to continue upward. Dan and Octavian are discussing what to do to continue upward. Dan and Octavian are discussing what to do in Romanian. I assume they are talking about what to do…. Oc- in Romanian. I assume they are talking about what to do…. Oc- tavian’s feet are swimming, his plastic boots have become expen- tavian’s feet are swimming, his plastic boots have become expensive portable puddles. My leathers with cheapo gaiters are toasty sive portable puddles. My leathers with cheapo gaiters are toasty and dry. How very old school. and dry. How very old school.

Dan is leading the snow pitches. We have a few very steep Dan is leading the snow pitches. We have a few very steep pitches, then the slope levels off into a huge gully. We aim straight pitches, then the slope levels off into a huge gully. We aim straight up this. The image of Dan way out on the 60M line, headlamp up this. The image of Dan way out on the 60M line, headlamp shining in front of him like a weird upside down deep sea subma- shining in front of him like a weird upside down deep sea subma- rine, is one I will not forget. The snow almost glows with the rine, is one I will not forget. The snow almost glows with the moonlight. The darkness of the buttress can be seen above us. I moonlight. The darkness of the buttress can be seen above us. I am tired. I lean back on the snow at the belay, I sleep for a min- am tired. I lean back on the snow at the belay, I sleep for a minute. Suddenly a rumble, louder than the average. Oh shit. Dan’s ute. Suddenly a rumble, louder than the average. Oh shit. Dan’s headlamp looks up at the wall…. Nothing. Must have been some- headlamp looks up at the wall…. Nothing. Must have been somewhere else. We decide to head for the large trees on the right. where else. We decide to head for the large trees on the right. They look so close, but there is a huge slope of broken snow to They look so close, but there is a huge slope of broken snow to get up. For all the magic bridges the snow had given us on the ap- get up. For all the magic bridges the snow had given us on the ap-

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 127 127 proach slog, here the snow was distinctly uncooperative. Blocks proach slog, here the snow was distinctly uncooperative. Blocks of snow trapped knees and feet, and crumbled when weighted. of snow trapped knees and feet, and crumbled when weighted. Frustrating. Frustrating.

We made it into the trees. We had hoped to find a flat spot We made it into the trees. We had hoped to find a flat spot to setup the tent. Instead we found steep snow here too. We dug to setup the tent. Instead we found steep snow here too. We dug a big ledge and contemplated our next move. It was now 11 PM. a big ledge and contemplated our next move. It was now 11 PM. We had been hiking for 14 hours. Dan believed we only had to We had been hiking for 14 hours. Dan believed we only had to stay in the trees to gain the top of the face, and the start of the stay in the trees to gain the top of the face, and the start of the buttress. Octavian’s feet were soaking. My headlamp was singing buttress. Octavian’s feet were soaking. My headlamp was singing like Tom Waits. It was snowing. We would either have to spend like Tom Waits. It was snowing. We would either have to spend the night here, or go back down and admit defeat. We ate as the night here, or go back down and admit defeat. We ate as much food as we could, drank water, and thought. We decided to much food as we could, drank water, and thought. We decided to head back down. head back down.

The descent went fairly smoothly. We stayed roped up, and The descent went fairly smoothly. We stayed roped up, and down climbed on belay. Kicking steps in reverse down the steep down climbed on belay. Kicking steps in reverse down the steep sections was creepy. I suddenly realised I no longer had my right sections was creepy. I suddenly realised I no longer had my right crampon on. Right on the steepest section too! Somehow I had crampon on. Right on the steepest section too! Somehow I had managed to loosen the strap, and kicked one right off! The phys- managed to loosen the strap, and kicked one right off! The phys- ics of that made no sense. Squirm to get it back on, keep going. ics of that made no sense. Squirm to get it back on, keep going. After a final ice axe belay, we were back on the lower slopes. Oc- After a final ice axe belay, we were back on the lower slopes. Oc- tavian ran ahead to the flats to set up the tent and warm his feet. I tavian ran ahead to the flats to set up the tent and warm his feet. I slowly post-holed down the slope. Mental note, crazy carpets slowly post-holed down the slope. Mental note, crazy carpets must be one of the most underused tools in mountaineering, at must be one of the most underused tools in mountaineering, at least underused by me! least underused by me!

At 4 AM we had the tent set up. Sweet sleep, after 19 hours At 4 AM we had the tent set up. Sweet sleep, after 19 hours of straight exertion. of straight exertion.

The next day we ate like kings, then snow-shoed out. Once The next day we ate like kings, then snow-shoed out. Once again the snow was co-operating. We crossed the river on a beau- again the snow was co-operating. We crossed the river on a beautiful corniced log, just wide enough for one shoe in front of the tiful corniced log, just wide enough for one shoe in front of the other. On the other side of our buttress a huge slide had come other. On the other side of our buttress a huge slide had come down right from the top all the way to the river. As we finished down right from the top all the way to the river. As we finished our slog down, we met four “hunters” complete with jean jackets. our slog down, we met four “hunters” complete with jean jackets. “seen any bear?”. I was laughing (inside) at the image of three “seen any bear?”. I was laughing (inside) at the image of three overloaded platypus’s talking to a bunch of hockey-haired- overloaded platypus’s talking to a bunch of hockey-haired-

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 128 128 hunters. So much for the fisheries hopes of keeping people out. hunters. So much for the fisheries hopes of keeping people out. These guys had showed up, rifles and all, on dirt-bikes. As Dan These guys had showed up, rifles and all, on dirt-bikes. As Dan pointed out: “I am more scared of these guys than of any bears”. pointed out: “I am more scared of these guys than of any bears”. Indeed. Indeed.

The area around Mt. Rexford is truly beautiful. The lack of The area around Mt. Rexford is truly beautiful. The lack of access is disappointing, although some type of mountain bike and access is disappointing, although some type of mountain bike and trailer contraption may work to quicken the approach. Maybe trailer contraption may work to quicken the approach. Maybe some kind of access can be negotiated with the fisheries depart- some kind of access can be negotiated with the fisheries department. I will be back! ment. I will be back!

Flying over the Rockies Flying over the Rockies Photo: Elise Breyton Photo: Elise Breyton

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Sentenced by the Judge Sentenced by the Judge Mount Judge Howay Attempt Mount Judge Howay Attempt August 15-17, 1999 August 15-17, 1999 Fred Touche Fred Touche

Mount Judge Howay (2248 m), visible from parts of the Mount Judge Howay (2248 m), visible from parts of the Fraser Valley, has a legendary reputation for subjecting climbers Fraser Valley, has a legendary reputation for subjecting climbers to humiliating defeats, mainly because of approach difficulties. to humiliating defeats, mainly because of approach difficulties. Despite the history of the mountain and a marginal weather fore- Despite the history of the mountain and a marginal weather forecast for the next few days, we remained optimistic. Where others cast for the next few days, we remained optimistic. Where others had failed, we would beat the Judge into submission with our se- had failed, we would beat the Judge into submission with our secret weapons of approach, sea kayaks and a frail rubber raft. cret weapons of approach, sea kayaks and a frail rubber raft.

Although a logging road passes just east of the base of Although a logging road passes just east of the base of Mount Judge Howay, its only connection to the rest of the British Mount Judge Howay, its only connection to the rest of the British Columbia road system is via a private barge across Stave Lake. Columbia road system is via a private barge across Stave Lake. Most climbers reach Judge Howay by canoeing from a launch site Most climbers reach Judge Howay by canoeing from a launch site at Cypress Point, on the east side of the lake. Since we weren’t at Cypress Point, on the east side of the lake. Since we weren’t sure of the condition of the logging roads to Cypress Point, we sure of the condition of the logging roads to Cypress Point, we decided instead to launch from Sayers Point (E506 N620), on the decided instead to launch from Sayers Point (E506 N620), on the west side of Stave Lake. west side of Stave Lake.

We reached the Sayers Point logging camp at noon and We reached the Sayers Point logging camp at noon and were met by a rabid-looking dog and some shake block cutters. were met by a rabid-looking dog and some shake block cutters. One of the loggers generously offered us a free parking spot be- One of the loggers generously offered us a free parking spot beside his trailer, and we hauled our kayaks across mounds of bark side his trailer, and we hauled our kayaks across mounds of bark and other wooden debris to the shore of the lake. We were soon and other wooden debris to the shore of the lake. We were soon paddling across debris-choked water toward the mouth of the paddling across debris-choked water toward the mouth of the Stave River at the head of the lake, 18 km to the north. Stave River at the head of the lake, 18 km to the north.

Near the head of the lake, a forest of dead trees sticking Near the head of the lake, a forest of dead trees sticking out of the shallow water is a testament to the dam that flooded out of the shallow water is a testament to the dam that flooded this area in 1908. We found the mouth of the Stave River and fol- this area in 1908. We found the mouth of the Stave River and followed the river upstream for about 3 km until the current became lowed the river upstream for about 3 km until the current became too strong. There, we resorted to dragging our kayaks a few 100 too strong. There, we resorted to dragging our kayaks a few 100 meters through shallow water until we arrived at the junction with meters through shallow water until we arrived at the junction with the North Channel of Winslow Creek. Here, the current relented the North Channel of Winslow Creek. Here, the current relented

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 130 130 momentarily and we paddled a short distance further to where the momentarily and we paddled a short distance further to where the river meets the road (E544 N808). Drizzling rain and assault- river meets the road (E544 N808). Drizzling rain and assault- mosquitoes made life miserable as we transferred gear into our mosquitoes made life miserable as we transferred gear into our backpacks. backpacks.

We hiked along the logging road, passing a series of tre- We hiked along the logging road, passing a series of tremendous rock bluffs that line the east side of the valley. After 5 mendous rock bluffs that line the east side of the valley. After 5 km, we reached a point just past the 15-km marker (E524 N855) km, we reached a point just past the 15-km marker (E524 N855) where we bushwhacked to the river. Here, we took turns blowing where we bushwhacked to the river. Here, we took turns blowing up the rubber raft, intermittently going dizzy while the mosqui- up the rubber raft, intermittently going dizzy while the mosquitoes where having a feast. After about an hour, the raft looked in- toes where having a feast. After about an hour, the raft looked in- flated enough for a river crossing. flated enough for a river crossing.

I loaded my pack onto one end of the raft and apprehen- I loaded my pack onto one end of the raft and apprehen- sively pushed into the current. I should mention that this raft was sively pushed into the current. I should mention that this raft was designed for children playing in swimming pools, not crossing designed for children playing in swimming pools, not crossing wild rivers. The limited paddling power of the two plastic oars de- wild rivers. The limited paddling power of the two plastic oars decided the outcome; I rapidly drifted downstream while making cided the outcome; I rapidly drifted downstream while making only marginal progress across the river. Josie looked on in amuse- only marginal progress across the river. Josie looked on in amuse- ment as I finally managed to scramble onto the opposite gravel ment as I finally managed to scramble onto the opposite gravel bank where I carried the raft upstream as far conveniently possi- bank where I carried the raft upstream as far conveniently possible, and once again pushed into the current. Soon, I regained the ble, and once again pushed into the current. Soon, I regained the original shoreline and dragged the raft back through the bush to original shoreline and dragged the raft back through the bush to Josie. Josie.

I repeated the crossing with Josie’s pack and was on the I repeated the crossing with Josie’s pack and was on the return trip when one of the small plastic oars broke in half. Josie return trip when one of the small plastic oars broke in half. Josie heard me blurt “Oh Shit” as I pulled the remaining oar out of the heard me blurt “Oh Shit” as I pulled the remaining oar out of the oar-ring and paddled like mad toward shore. Paddling with only oar-ring and paddled like mad toward shore. Paddling with only one oar caused the raft to spin wildly, but somehow I managed to one oar caused the raft to spin wildly, but somehow I managed to grab a tree branch that was sticking into the river. The branch grab a tree branch that was sticking into the river. The branch broke, but I drifted toward another branch that held. The raft in- broke, but I drifted toward another branch that held. The raft in- stantly filled with water and I hauled myself soaking wet onto stantly filled with water and I hauled myself soaking wet onto shore. I returned to Josie who by now had decided that she was shore. I returned to Josie who by now had decided that she was not going to cross the river. “What are we going to do with our not going to cross the river. “What are we going to do with our packs on the other side”, I pleaded. packs on the other side”, I pleaded.

Returning to the road, we hid our ski poles behind a pile of Returning to the road, we hid our ski poles behind a pile of

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 131 131 logs, and found a slab of cedar wood that we could use as a sec- logs, and found a slab of cedar wood that we could use as a second paddle. We squeezed into the raft facing each other and ond paddle. We squeezed into the raft facing each other and pushed into the current once more. Soon, we were spinning pushed into the current once more. Soon, we were spinning around in circles while swiftly drifting downstream. We were inad- around in circles while swiftly drifting downstream. We were inad- vertently counteracting each other’s paddling efforts by inspired vertently counteracting each other’s paddling efforts by inspired but poor technique. Uppermost in our minds were the Class 3 but poor technique. Uppermost in our minds were the Class 3 rapids half a kilometre downstream that we had seen while hiking rapids half a kilometre downstream that we had seen while hiking on the logging road. Somehow this contemplation improved our on the logging road. Somehow this contemplation improved our synchronisation and we managed with great effort to reach calm synchronisation and we managed with great effort to reach calm water on the other side and then the gravel bank. Thoughts of water on the other side and then the gravel bank. Thoughts of how we would re-cross the river on our way home were sup- how we would re-cross the river on our way home were sup- pressed as we set up camp on the gravel bank about 1 m above pressed as we set up camp on the gravel bank about 1 m above the water level. the water level.

We were camped on an island, and had to cross a narrow, We were camped on an island, and had to cross a narrow, knee-deep channel before starting the next morning’s hike. The knee-deep channel before starting the next morning’s hike. The bushwhack that followed offered some reprieve from the annoy- bushwhack that followed offered some reprieve from the annoy- ing river crossings, but after 15 minutes Josie gave up. She looked ing river crossings, but after 15 minutes Josie gave up. She looked white as sheet and was complaining about flu-like symptoms. I white as sheet and was complaining about flu-like symptoms. I returned with her to the river and then set off on a scouting expe- returned with her to the river and then set off on a scouting expedition up the Judge. dition up the Judge.

After 20 minutes, I stumbled onto an 8-m high section of After 20 minutes, I stumbled onto an 8-m high section of Class 3-4 rock. According to Robin Tivy’s article, Reinhard Class 3-4 rock. According to Robin Tivy’s article, Reinhard Fabische who has climbed the Judge several times claims that “if Fabische who has climbed the Judge several times claims that “if you're doing anything hard you're off route”. I wondered if you're doing anything hard you're off route”. I wondered if “anything hard” includes slippery rock. Rather than risking my life “anything hard” includes slippery rock. Rather than risking my life to find out, I contoured north and went up an easier, but just as to find out, I contoured north and went up an easier, but just as slippery path around the rock. From there, I fought my way slippery path around the rock. From there, I fought my way through steep bush to a creek (E520 N852). Could this be the wa- through steep bush to a creek (E520 N852). Could this be the water platform that people had been talking about? Apparently not! I ter platform that people had been talking about? Apparently not! I continued through the bush diagonally upward and south. Now, continued through the bush diagonally upward and south. Now, bluffs above to my right and a cliff below to my left forced me bluffs above to my right and a cliff below to my left forced me into an increasingly narrow passage that eventually squeezed me into an increasingly narrow passage that eventually squeezed me right into the real water platform. On the north side of the plat- right into the real water platform. On the north side of the platform, a bluff with a distinct right-angle top would be my guide for form, a bluff with a distinct right-angle top would be my guide for finding this spot on my return. finding this spot on my return.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 132 132 I used hanging branches to pull myself up the south side of the I used hanging branches to pull myself up the south side of the water platform and hiked diagonally upward through the bush for water platform and hiked diagonally upward through the bush for about an hour. Higher up, I turned south to avoid some massive about an hour. Higher up, I turned south to avoid some massive rock bluffs above and at last came out of the bush with the snow- rock bluffs above and at last came out of the bush with the snow- covered hanging valley about 50 m below me. After sliding down, covered hanging valley about 50 m below me. After sliding down, grass, bush, and rock, I reached the bottom end of this valley grass, bush, and rock, I reached the bottom end of this valley (E512 N848) and had a much-deserved lunch. I was soaked to the (E512 N848) and had a much-deserved lunch. I was soaked to the bone; apparently, Gore-Tex does not keep you dry when you’re bone; apparently, Gore-Tex does not keep you dry when you’re forcing your way though wet bushes. So far, I had covered 1.3 km forcing your way though wet bushes. So far, I had covered 1.3 km in 4 hours. in 4 hours.

From here, Fairley’s guide suggests “… climb to ridge to From here, Fairley’s guide suggests “… climb to ridge to the N, following this and a snow gully above to the north east the N, following this and a snow gully above to the north east ridge”. Tom Fyles’ description of his successful climb in 1921 ridge”. Tom Fyles’ description of his successful climb in 1921 sounds a lot different: "The basin still held a large amount of the sounds a lot different: "The basin still held a large amount of the previous winter's snow and from 2500 feet elevation, offered a previous winter's snow and from 2500 feet elevation, offered a continuous route to the peak”. I opted for Fyles’ directions, as continuous route to the peak”. I opted for Fyles’ directions, as they sounded a lot more attractive, especially with this year’s they sounded a lot more attractive, especially with this year’s heavy snow pack. heavy snow pack.

I strapped on my crampons and followed the main valley I strapped on my crampons and followed the main valley for a couple of hours. This valley initially points to the south, then for a couple of hours. This valley initially points to the south, then gently curves to the east. At no time did I encounter any technical gently curves to the east. At no time did I encounter any technical difficulties and came to the nonsensical conclusion that since difficulties and came to the nonsensical conclusion that since you’re off-route if you’re doing anything hard, then you must con- you’re off-route if you’re doing anything hard, then you must con- versely be on-route if you’re doing something easy. I turned versely be on-route if you’re doing something easy. I turned around at 3:45 p.m., not wanting to bushwhack back to camp in around at 3:45 p.m., not wanting to bushwhack back to camp in the dark. the dark.

The GPS altimeter showed my high point as 1700 m. Later, The GPS altimeter showed my high point as 1700 m. Later, when I marked this position (E494 N840) on the map, the con- when I marked this position (E494 N840) on the map, the contour lines put me at an elevation of about 2000 m, just 200 hori- tour lines put me at an elevation of about 2000 m, just 200 horizontal meters from the summit assuming that the main peak is zontal meters from the summit assuming that the main peak is correctly marked on the map. If this is true, and if the standard correctly marked on the map. If this is true, and if the standard approach to the main peak is from the north east, then Fairley’s approach to the main peak is from the north east, then Fairley’s guide describes a more convoluted way to the top. Of course, I guide describes a more convoluted way to the top. Of course, I had no way of confirming this hypothesis because of poor visibil- had no way of confirming this hypothesis because of poor visibility; all I could see was the snow slope getting steeper ahead. ity; all I could see was the snow slope getting steeper ahead.

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Glissading down to the bottom of the hanging valley took Glissading down to the bottom of the hanging valley took less than an hour. Here, I decided to reduce the elevation gain less than an hour. Here, I decided to reduce the elevation gain needed to climb out of the valley by following a more direct line needed to climb out of the valley by following a more direct line toward the water platform. By the time I realised the futility of toward the water platform. By the time I realised the futility of trying to minimise hardship, I was deep in an alder jungle. In due trying to minimise hardship, I was deep in an alder jungle. In due course, I crawled to the nearest patch of big trees where the going course, I crawled to the nearest patch of big trees where the going was easier, and eventually ran into the precipice marking the edge was easier, and eventually ran into the precipice marking the edge of the gully that runs down to the water platform. Further down, of the gully that runs down to the water platform. Further down, I spotted the distinct right-angle rock bluff that hovers over the I spotted the distinct right-angle rock bluff that hovers over the water platform. Using branches, I lowered myself down to the water platform. Using branches, I lowered myself down to the platform, continued on the other side through the narrow pas- platform, continued on the other side through the narrow passage, and then back into the bush. I rappelled down the rock that sage, and then back into the bush. I rappelled down the rock that I had avoided on the way up and soon returned to camp where I had avoided on the way up and soon returned to camp where Josie has spent most of the day eating chocolate bars. For her, Josie has spent most of the day eating chocolate bars. For her, food seems to be the best medicine and she had made a remark- food seems to be the best medicine and she had made a remark- able recovery from her illness. able recovery from her illness.

We awoke to brilliant sunshine and anticipated a leisurely We awoke to brilliant sunshine and anticipated a leisurely trip home, the Stave River being the only apparent obstacle be- trip home, the Stave River being the only apparent obstacle between civilisation and us. Unfortunately, the river crossing proved tween civilisation and us. Unfortunately, the river crossing proved to be no trivial matter, the lack of paddling power of our remain- to be no trivial matter, the lack of paddling power of our remaining plastic oar turned into a nearly insurmountable problem. Opt- ing plastic oar turned into a nearly insurmountable problem. Opt- ing to play it safe, we rolled a log to the edge of the river and tied ing to play it safe, we rolled a log to the edge of the river and tied one end of our climbing rope to this log. Then we laced a piece of one end of our climbing rope to this log. Then we laced a piece of webbing into four tie-points on the raft and connected the other webbing into four tie-points on the raft and connected the other end of the rope to this webbing via a carabiner. The plan was to end of the rope to this webbing via a carabiner. The plan was to string the rope across the river and then use the taut rope to pull string the rope across the river and then use the taut rope to pull the raft back and forth until all our gear and Josie were safely the raft back and forth until all our gear and Josie were safely across. across.

I pushed out into the current with Josie feeding the rope I pushed out into the current with Josie feeding the rope and was soon drifting downstream. Before I could reach the other and was soon drifting downstream. Before I could reach the other side, the rope jerked tight against the anchor. Immediately, a bow side, the rope jerked tight against the anchor. Immediately, a bow wave materialised on the upstream side of the raft, swamping the wave materialised on the upstream side of the raft, swamping the raft with water. I tried to pendulum across the river by paddling raft with water. I tried to pendulum across the river by paddling on the downstream side of the raft but to no avail; no matter how on the downstream side of the raft but to no avail; no matter how hard I tried, the current just kept pushing me back. Josie pulled hard I tried, the current just kept pushing me back. Josie pulled

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 134 134 me back to shore and we repeated the whole procedure half a me back to shore and we repeated the whole procedure half a dozen times before giving up and taking a lunch break. dozen times before giving up and taking a lunch break.

For the next series of attempts, we bushwhacked 100 m up For the next series of attempts, we bushwhacked 100 m up the river and used a tree as an anchor. Here we had the advantage the river and used a tree as an anchor. Here we had the advantage of a strong current on the near side of the river and relatively calm of a strong current on the near side of the river and relatively calm water on the other side, exact opposite conditions to where our water on the other side, exact opposite conditions to where our first attempts were made. The outcome was however identical and first attempts were made. The outcome was however identical and after several useless attempts we gave up again. It was time for after several useless attempts we gave up again. It was time for some inspired thinking. some inspired thinking.

An apparent solution to our problem was staring us right in An apparent solution to our problem was staring us right in the face. Just upstream, two deciduous windfalls were laying in the the face. Just upstream, two deciduous windfalls were laying in the river, parallel to each other and the current. Stringing the rope river, parallel to each other and the current. Stringing the rope around the branches of these trees would reduce the distance around the branches of these trees would reduce the distance needed to pendulum across the river, effectively moving the ful- needed to pendulum across the river, effectively moving the ful- crum of the pendulum formed by the anchor, rope, and raft to- crum of the pendulum formed by the anchor, rope, and raft toward the centre the current. I unclipped the rope from the raft, ward the centre the current. I unclipped the rope from the raft, tossed it around the branches, and let the end of the rope drift tossed it around the branches, and let the end of the rope drift downstream. The rope disappeared under the water. I pulled it downstream. The rope disappeared under the water. I pulled it out, tied a small branch to the end, and threw it back into the out, tied a small branch to the end, and threw it back into the river. The branch bobbed in and out of the water like a dolphin as river. The branch bobbed in and out of the water like a dolphin as I fed out half the rope length. I fed out half the rope length.

We anchored the middle of the rope to a tree, clipped the We anchored the middle of the rope to a tree, clipped the second end of the rope to the raft, and I once again paddled into second end of the rope to the raft, and I once again paddled into the river while Josie let out the leftover rope. Reaching the bob- the river while Josie let out the leftover rope. Reaching the bobbing branch wasn’t easy. Just as I was about to grab it, the branch bing branch wasn’t easy. Just as I was about to grab it, the branch dove under water, and as soon as I stopped paddling, I drifted dove under water, and as soon as I stopped paddling, I drifted away from it. Several frustrating tries later, Josie pulled me back to away from it. Several frustrating tries later, Josie pulled me back to shore as I triumphantly held the branch. The victory was however shore as I triumphantly held the branch. The victory was however short lived; I lost the branch when I disembarked, and then it short lived; I lost the branch when I disembarked, and then it floated downstream and resumed its bobbing. Half a dozen more floated downstream and resumed its bobbing. Half a dozen more attempts brought final reprieve. This time I didn’t let the trophy attempts brought final reprieve. This time I didn’t let the trophy escape and we tied this end of the rope to the raft. It was time for escape and we tied this end of the rope to the raft. It was time for a drying session and another lunch. a drying session and another lunch.

With some apprehension, I again drifted into the river and With some apprehension, I again drifted into the river and

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 135 135 paddled all-out for the other shore. Regrettably, I could not quite paddled all-out for the other shore. Regrettably, I could not quite reach the other side and got pushed back into the middle of the reach the other side and got pushed back into the middle of the river. Several additional attempts to pendulum across resulted in a river. Several additional attempts to pendulum across resulted in a raft full of water but no opposite shore. The first stage of hypo- raft full of water but no opposite shore. The first stage of hypo- thermia was setting in when I decided to return to the shore of thermia was setting in when I decided to return to the shore of departure. This proved impossible because of the position of the departure. This proved impossible because of the position of the rope and the current kept me firmly trapped near the middle of rope and the current kept me firmly trapped near the middle of the river. I yelled at Josie to haul me in but there was too much the river. I yelled at Josie to haul me in but there was too much rope friction around the branches for her to pull the raft. rope friction around the branches for her to pull the raft.

A new technique was called for. Using my end of the rope, A new technique was called for. Using my end of the rope, I pulled myself a short distance upstream and then let her quickly I pulled myself a short distance upstream and then let her quickly pull in the slack. This worked like magic and we repeated the pull in the slack. This worked like magic and we repeated the process until the raft butted against the first tree. Josie suggested I process until the raft butted against the first tree. Josie suggested I climb onto the tree and then try to flip the raft over to the other climb onto the tree and then try to flip the raft over to the other side of the tree. This advice did not appeal to me because the side of the tree. This advice did not appeal to me because the small tree did not have any bark and looked awfully slippery. Lack small tree did not have any bark and looked awfully slippery. Lack of other obvious options forced the issue and I crawled onto the of other obvious options forced the issue and I crawled onto the tree with the oar in one hand. When I tossed the raft over the tree with the oar in one hand. When I tossed the raft over the tree, I lost the oar and barely managed to grab it. tree, I lost the oar and barely managed to grab it.

I dove into the raft and it immediately flipped upside I dove into the raft and it immediately flipped upside down. One of my feet snagged in the webbing as I fell into the down. One of my feet snagged in the webbing as I fell into the water and I was left hanging upside down from the raft. All I water and I was left hanging upside down from the raft. All I could think was “this is not good” as I instinctively grabbed a could think was “this is not good” as I instinctively grabbed a branch on the second tree. While I untangled my foot with my branch on the second tree. While I untangled my foot with my free hand, I again noticed the oar drifting away but retrieving it free hand, I again noticed the oar drifting away but retrieving it was, at the moment, low on my things-to-do list. Josie pulled the was, at the moment, low on my things-to-do list. Josie pulled the raft tight against the second tree while I crawled onto this tree. raft tight against the second tree while I crawled onto this tree. This time, the raft was completely stuck in some branches and I This time, the raft was completely stuck in some branches and I was unable to flip it over the tree. was unable to flip it over the tree.

A final hard tug from Josie broke the raft loose but it punc- A final hard tug from Josie broke the raft loose but it punc- tured on one of the branches. I dove onto the raft and hung onto tured on one of the branches. I dove onto the raft and hung onto it with a bear hug; the raft was almost completely deflated by the it with a bear hug; the raft was almost completely deflated by the time Josie hauled me onto shore. The irony in our situation was time Josie hauled me onto shore. The irony in our situation was now evident: we were literally “up the creek without a paddle” now evident: we were literally “up the creek without a paddle” and with no raft. and with no raft.

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Josie came up with a creative idea: “I’m swimming across”. Josie came up with a creative idea: “I’m swimming For several minutes, I was unable to argue against the plan be- across”. For several minutes, I was unable to argue against the cause of uncontrollable shivering. We hiked back to our packs, plan because of uncontrollable shivering. We hiked back to our consumed another lunch, and agreed on a compromise plan. packs, consumed another lunch, and agreed on a compromise Josie would swim across but tied to the rope. Although she is a plan. Josie would swim across but tied to the rope. Although she triathlete and a strong swimmer, the water was so cold that she is a triathlete and a strong swimmer, the water was so cold that would go numb in a minute. After crossing the river, she would she would go numb in a minute. After crossing the river, she try to flag down a logging truck. Hopefully, someone in the log- would try to flag down a logging truck. Hopefully, someone in ging camp would have some kind of boat to get our gear and me the logging camp would have some kind of boat to get our gear across. and me across.

First, she went for a short test swim attached to the rope First, she went for a short test swim attached to the rope and I pulled her back to shore without difficulty. Then with one and I pulled her back to shore without difficulty. Then with one end of the rope anchored to the tree, she swam out into the cur- end of the rope anchored to the tree, she swam out into the current, facing diagonally upstream and toward the other shore. The rent, facing diagonally upstream and toward the other shore. The current quickly caught the bite of the rope that I was feeding out current quickly caught the bite of the rope that I was feeding out and it became increasingly difficult for her to swim against the and it became increasingly difficult for her to swim against the rope drag. Luckily, she managed to plant her feet in shallow wa- rope drag. Luckily, she managed to plant her feet in shallow water on the other side just as the rope ran out. She took a few ter on the other side just as the rope ran out. She took a few steps forward, and when she finally reached dry land, the rope steps forward, and when she finally reached dry land, the rope almost pulled her back into the river. After a struggle, she walked almost pulled her back into the river. After a struggle, she walked around a tree and tied the rope to it. I tightened the rope and around a tree and tied the rope to it. I tightened the rope and now we would have been able to shuttle our gear across the river now we would have been able to shuttle our gear across the river if our raft had been intact. if our raft had been intact.

Five hours later, I heard voices from up the river. A two- Five hours later, I heard voices from up the river. A two- person whitewater raft containing Josie and some guy was head- person whitewater raft containing Josie and some guy was heading toward me. Stefan, a Danish logging contractor, introduced ing toward me. Stefan, a Danish logging contractor, introduced himself. Josie had hiked barefoot for 5 km to our kayaks. There himself. Josie had hiked barefoot for 5 km to our kayaks. There she had retrieved her sandals and started running toward camp. she had retrieved her sandals and started running toward camp. After covering 1 km, she decided it was too far to jog to camp After covering 1 km, she decided it was too far to jog to camp and returned to the kayaks. She paddled down the river to the and returned to the kayaks. She paddled down the river to the lake and eventually neared the log dump at the 0-km marker. A lake and eventually neared the log dump at the 0-km marker. A couple of loggers who were just about to take off in a boat no- couple of loggers who were just about to take off in a boat noticed a frantic woman yelling in a kayak. ticed a frantic woman yelling in a kayak.

We used a carabiner to clip Stefan’s raft onto our taut rope We used a carabiner to clip Stefan’s raft onto our taut

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 137 137 and Stefan shuttled all our gear to the other side. Then we let go rope and Stefan shuttled all our gear to the other side. Then we of the rope and easily crossed the river using kayak paddles. We let go of the rope and easily crossed the river using kayak pad- lugged his raft and our gear through the bush to the logging road dles. We lugged his raft and our gear through the bush to the and loaded everything onto his truck. When we reached my logging road and loaded everything onto his truck. When we kayak, we loaded it crossways on the truck and continued to the reached my kayak, we loaded it crossways on the truck and con- log dump. There, Stefan bid us goodbye as we paddled off into tinued to the log dump. There, Stefan bid us goodbye as we pad- the encroaching darkness. dled off into the encroaching darkness.

Once again, the Judge had prevailed. Once again, the Judge had prevailed.

Participants: Participants:

Josie Hetyei Fred Touche Josie Hetyei Fred Touche

Photo: Photo: Jeremy Frimer Jeremy Frimer

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Tantalus Traverse Tantalus Traverse Jeffrey Martin Jeffrey Martin

Adventure seems to be an easy thing to find in these parts. Adventure seems to be an easy thing to find in these parts. In the year or two I'd been climbing and skiing in the coast range In the year or two I'd been climbing and skiing in the coast range I'd had some high times, often only a few hours from the car and I'd had some high times, often only a few hours from the car and often when I was hardly expecting it. I've found that it really often when I was hardly expecting it. I've found that it really doesn't matter here you go, but that the people you go with and doesn't matter here you go, but that the people you go with and the attitudes you share make all the difference. Sometimes you the attitudes you share make all the difference. Sometimes you start chatting with a buddy about getting out for the afternoon or start chatting with a buddy about getting out for the afternoon or taking off for the week and you can smell the adventure coming taking off for the week and you can smell the adventure coming around the corner. When Jeremy asked me if I'd like to try to around the corner. When Jeremy asked me if I'd like to try to traverse the Tantalus range over spring break, my nose started to traverse the Tantalus range over spring break, my nose started to twitch. twitch.

I didn't know much about the Tantalus range. I'd seen it I didn't know much about the Tantalus range. I'd seen it from the road driving up to Squamish, but had no reason to be- from the road driving up to Squamish, but had no reason to believe it was somehow more rugged or remote then the other local lieve it was somehow more rugged or remote then the other local ranges I'd seen. When Jeremy pulled out a map in class one day ranges I'd seen. When Jeremy pulled out a map in class one day and showed me what he had in mind, I soon got interested. Then and showed me what he had in mind, I soon got interested. Then he told me we'd be following a route Don Serl had described in he told me we'd be following a route Don Serl had described in the Canadian Alpine Journal a few years back. I read the article, the Canadian Alpine Journal a few years back. I read the article, spoke to a few people and tried to take stock of things. The Tan- spoke to a few people and tried to take stock of things. The Tan- talus range: steep slopes, big cliffs and gnarly glaciers everywhere talus range: steep slopes, big cliffs and gnarly glaciers everywhere you turn. Winter traverse: short, cold days, bad weather, and po- you turn. Winter traverse: short, cold days, bad weather, and po- tentially murderous trail breaking. Don Serl's route: hard climb- tentially murderous trail breaking. Don Serl's route: hard climbing, which I've done in the summer but this time we were going ing, which I've done in the summer but this time we were going to have our ski boots on. It sounded like a challenge. We might to have our ski boots on. It sounded like a challenge. We might have to skip a few of the peaks and take an extra day or two, but have to skip a few of the peaks and take an extra day or two, but we could probably pull it off. I was sold. we could probably pull it off. I was sold.

We didn't end up in the Tantalus range that spring break; a We didn't end up in the Tantalus range that spring break; a bright eyed girl with a sailboat and a contagious laugh wanted to bright eyed girl with a sailboat and a contagious laugh wanted to tour me around the gulf islands and I just couldn't say no. We tour me around the gulf islands and I just couldn't say no. We went a month later instead, and invited Jay, Greg and Marty to went a month later instead, and invited Jay, Greg and Marty to come along. The five of us were heading up to the St Elias that come along. The five of us were heading up to the St Elias that summer and this trip seemed like a good warm up. summer and this trip seemed like a good warm up.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 139 139

We left from Jer and Marty's place early Friday evening. We left from Jer and Marty's place early Friday evening. Before heading out the door we put back a big meal of pasta and Before heading out the door we put back a big meal of pasta and dumpster dive delights that Marty had salvaged from the bin be- dumpster dive delights that Marty had salvaged from the bin behind Safeway. Jay thought something didn't taste quite right so hind Safeway. Jay thought something didn't taste quite right so Greg and I ate his portion. We camped that night at the Sigurd Greg and I ate his portion. We camped that night at the Sigurd creek trail head after dropping a car to the Lake Lovely water ac- creek trail head after dropping a car to the Lake Lovely water access point where we would end up in four days. cess point where we would end up in four days.

Our plan the first day was to cover as much distance and Our plan the first day was to cover as much distance and gain as much elevation as possible. The first few kilometres and gain as much elevation as possible. The first few kilometres and few thousand feet would be a slog up a muddy trail through the few thousand feet would be a slog up a muddy trail through the forest. It would be typical west coast stuff: hiking with your skis forest. It would be typical west coast stuff: hiking with your skis on your back. When we hit snow we would put our skis on and on your back. When we hit snow we would put our skis on and push up into the alpine below Mt Pelion, the most northern peak push up into the alpine below Mt Pelion, the most northern peak of the range. Unfortunately, whatever hadn't tasted right in Jay's of the range. Unfortunately, whatever hadn't tasted right in Jay's dinner the night before didn't sit well either. He spent the night dinner the night before didn't sit well either. He spent the night puking outside the tent and woke up with little motivation to puking outside the tent and woke up with little motivation to hump a pack up hill. We were able to convince him to move, but hump a pack up hill. We were able to convince him to move, but we couldn't get him to move quickly. Jay would feel awful, but we couldn't get him to move quickly. Jay would feel awful, but when he threw up a wave of renewal would come over him. He'd when he threw up a wave of renewal would come over him. He'd be strong for a while, but his condition would deteriorate until it be strong for a while, but his condition would deteriorate until it was a struggle to move. Eventually he'd puke again and the cycle was a struggle to move. Eventually he'd puke again and the cycle would start over. It really wasn't fair to drag him along behind us would start over. It really wasn't fair to drag him along behind us so we set up camp just below the tree line at about three o'clock so we set up camp just below the tree line at about three o'clock that afternoon. that afternoon.

We were up before the sun the next morning. Jay was feel- We were up before the sun the next morning. Jay was feeling well and the skies were clear, so we started up towards Pelion ing well and the skies were clear, so we started up towards Pelion and Ossa. The ridge that connects and extends beyond these two and Ossa. The ridge that connects and extends beyond these two summits is quite jagged and dramatic and there are several small summits is quite jagged and dramatic and there are several small passes to choose from. We made our way across and started ski- passes to choose from. We made our way across and started skiing down towards the bowl below Mt Zenith. This was all fine ing down towards the bowl below Mt Zenith. This was all fine and good, but it turns out we could have chosen a pass further to and good, but it turns out we could have chosen a pass further to the west and followed a high bench towards Tantalus' north ridge. the west and followed a high bench towards Tantalus' north ridge. As it was we were trapped on the north side a rock rip on Pelion's As it was we were trapped on the north side a rock rip on Pelion's west face and were forced way down into the valley. west face and were forced way down into the valley.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 140 140 After a few hours of unnecessary descending and ascending After a few hours of unnecessary descending and ascend- we were back on the ridge system leading towards Tantalus. ing we were back on the ridge system leading towards Tantalus. Travel was exciting. We had to down climb at least one steep sec- Travel was exciting. We had to down climb at least one steep tion and there were several steep slopes above big cliffs to cross. section and there were several steep slopes above big cliffs to We made it to the north end of the rumbling glacier by dusk. The cross. We made it to the north end of the rumbling glacier by terrain was overwhelmingly rugged and beautiful. dusk. The terrain was overwhelmingly rugged and beautiful.

By the third day the pre dawn start was getting easier as we By the third day the pre dawn start was getting easier as

The Mighty Tantalus Range The Mighty Tantalus Range Photo: Jeremy Frimer Photo: Jeremy Frimer

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 141 141 had a pretty good system. Before getting out of our sleeping bags we had a pretty good system. Before getting out of our sleeping we'd eat a bowl of Greg's homemade granola and drink a liter of bags we'd eat a bowl of Greg's homemade granola and drink a kool-aid. This meant we were well fed and alert before having to liter of kool-aid. This meant we were well fed and alert before deal the wind and the cold outside. On this particular morning having to deal the wind and the cold outside. On this particular Marty took a look outside and decided to put on his avalanche morning Marty took a look outside and decided to put on his ava- transceiver even before getting out of the tent. I guess that's a lanche transceiver even before getting out of the tent. I guess sure sign of an adventure because his first words that morning that's a sure sign of an adventure because his first words that were: "This is so freaken' awesome!" His high spirit was conta- morning were: "This is so freaken' awesome!" His high spirit was gious. contagious.

Unfortunately the weather was a little unsettled. It was al- Unfortunately the weather was a little unsettled. It was almost whited out when we woke up and it looked like we might be most whited out when we woke up and it looked like we might be pinned to our tents all day. We were camped on the north edge pinned to our tents all day. We were camped on the north edge of the rumbling glacier, which can be seen below Mt Tantalus of the rumbling glacier, which can be seen below Mt Tantalus from Squamish. We had to cross over to Tantalus' south shoul- from Squamish. We had to cross over to Tantalus' south shoulder and Mt Dione. As the name suggests, the Rumbling glacier is der and Mt Dione. As the name suggests, the Rumbling glacier is a mess of seracs and crevasse fields, so we would need to see to a mess of seracs and crevasse fields, so we would need to see to find our way across. Fortunately the clouds seemed to be thin- find our way across. Fortunately the clouds seemed to be thin- ning and there were stretches of good visibility by the time we ning and there were stretches of good visibility by the time we were ready to move. were ready to move.

Of course the sky was just toying with us and the visibility Of course the sky was just toying with us and the visibility didn't hold. We were allowed enough visibility to get into the didn't hold. We were allowed enough visibility to get into the thick of the glacier and then the sky closed in like a bowl of oat- thick of the glacier and then the sky closed in like a bowl of oatmeal. We spent hours navigating by map, compass and the blue meal. We spent hours navigating by map, compass and the blue shadow of the crevasses lurking about us. Progress was slow and shadow of the crevasses lurking about us. Progress was slow and frustrating; at the front of the rope, often nauseating. With noth- frustrating; at the front of the rope, often nauseating. With nothing to use as a bearing except the feel of the slope underfoot it ing to use as a bearing except the feel of the slope underfoot it was easy to lose one's balance. Fortunately we all love that kind was easy to lose one's balance. Fortunately we all love that kind of thing so enthusiasm was still felt and the battle cry we'd of thing so enthusiasm was still felt and the battle cry we'd adopted for the trip, "Summit or DIE!" was still occasionally adopted for the trip, "Summit or DIE!" was still occasionally heard. We were all smiles when we gained the ridge above the heard. We were all smiles when we gained the ridge above the glacier late afternoon. glacier late afternoon.

Rumour has it that the ACC has a hut (the Red Tit hut), on Rumour has it that the ACC has a hut (the Red Tit hut), on the ridge between the Serratus and Dione glaciers only a few kilo- the ridge between the Serratus and Dione glaciers only a few kilometres from where we then stood. It would take some tricky metres from where we then stood. It would take some tricky navigation to get there, but Jer had spoken to Don Serl before we navigation to get there, but Jer had spoken to Don Serl before we

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 142 142 left and he had given us specific advice on how to negotiate this left and he had given us specific advice on how to negotiate this particular section. We were planning to stay at or near the hut particular section. We were planning to stay at or near the hut that night but the slow progress on the Rumbling glacier had put that night but the slow progress on the Rumbling glacier had put us behind schedule. Furthermore, Jer had forgotten Serl's advice. us behind schedule. Furthermore, Jer had forgotten Serl's advice. We decided to give it a go anyway. We decided to give it a go anyway.

It started out ok, but we were soon faced with the choice of down It started out ok, but we were soon faced with the choice of down climbing some gullys we couldn't see the bottom of, or trying to climbing some gullys we couldn't see the bottom of, or trying to follow the ridge we couldn't really see either. We chose the ridge follow the ridge we couldn't really see either. We chose the ridge and Jer took the lead. and Jer took the lead.

First there was walking, then gentle down climbing, then steep, First there was walking, then gentle down climbing, then steep, nerve-racking down climbing and finally a terrifying awkward step nerve-racking down climbing and finally a terrifying awkward step onto a narrow, sloping ledge. There seemed to be nowhere to go. onto a narrow, sloping ledge. There seemed to be nowhere to go. It was getting cold, getting dark and the length of the day was It was getting cold, getting dark and the length of the day was starting to wear on all of us. starting to wear on all of us.

It's interesting how people assume different roles in such a It's interesting how people assume different roles in such a situation; Jer wanted to keep leading us downward. Hoping for situation; Jer wanted to keep leading us downward. Hoping for the best he vainly tried to build an anchor so we could rappel off the best he vainly tried to build an anchor so we could rappel off the ledge into the abyss below. Marty wanted to find another op- the ledge into the abyss below. Marty wanted to find another option, so he tried traversing out along the snow-covered rock to tion, so he tried traversing out along the snow-covered rock to either side. Jay, by far the most worn out of the group, focused either side. Jay, by far the most worn out of the group, focused his efforts on trying to keep warm. Greg stood back in search of his efforts on trying to keep warm. Greg stood back in search of a sober second thought. I tried to take the best of everyone's a sober second thought. I tried to take the best of everyone's opinion and lead a constructive discussion. The discussion went opinion and lead a constructive discussion. The discussion went something like this: something like this:

"Rappelling of this cliff is madness. We have no anchor and we don't know "Rappelling of this cliff is madness. We have no anchor and we don't know what is down there. If we spend the night huddled on this ledge it will be, by what is down there. If we spend the night huddled on this ledge it will be, by far, the worst time of our lives. There is nowhere to go other than back the far, the worst time of our lives. There is nowhere to go other than back the way we came. Lets get the hell out of here and try again in the morning when way we came. Lets get the hell out of here and try again in the morning when we can see." we can see."

Within half an hour we were back on level, relatively shel- Within half an hour we were back on level, relatively sheltered ground. Tents were soon pitched, dinner cooked, and sleep tered ground. Tents were soon pitched, dinner cooked, and sleep welcomed. welcomed.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 143 143 The next morning the sun rose over Mt. Garibaldi across The next morning the sun rose over Mt. Garibaldi across the valley. It was a cold, windy and utterly spectacular morning. the valley. It was a cold, windy and utterly spectacular morning. One of the blind gullys of the night before gave easy access to the One of the blind gullys of the night before gave easy access to the Dione glacier below. We moved quickly in the cold, peaceful air Dione glacier below. We moved quickly in the cold, peaceful air and found the Red Tit hut at about ten in the morning. and found the Red Tit hut at about ten in the morning.

To date we hadn't taken the time to climb anything, but To date we hadn't taken the time to climb anything, but this clear day gave us the opportunity to attempt Mt Serratus be- this clear day gave us the opportunity to attempt Mt Serratus before heading out. We probably could have done it but we didn't fore heading out. We probably could have done it but we didn't like the thought of getting stranded in more weather like the day like the thought of getting stranded in more weather like the day before. We carried on instead, crossing the slopes west of Serra- before. We carried on instead, crossing the slopes west of Serra- tus and gaining the pass between Serratus and Ionia visible high in tus and gaining the pass between Serratus and Ionia visible high in the back of the cirque above Lake Lovely water. the back of the cirque above Lake Lovely water.

It felt like every slope we had to cross had a grade of at It felt like every slope we had to cross had a grade of at least forty degrees and ended in a hundred foot cliff. Take a look least forty degrees and ended in a hundred foot cliff. Take a look up from Lovelywater and you'll see what I mean. I've never felt up from Lovelywater and you'll see what I mean. I've never felt so exposed ski touring. Fortunately the snow conditions and visi- so exposed ski touring. Fortunately the snow conditions and visibility were good and sunburns were the only trouble we ran into. bility were good and sunburns were the only trouble we ran into.

The trip out was an adventure in itself. The good people at The trip out was an adventure in itself. The good people at the ACC Keep the Lake Lovely Water hut locked so we couldn't the ACC Keep the Lake Lovely Water hut locked so we couldn't check their map to see where the trail down to the river might be. check their map to see where the trail down to the river might be. I suppose that's par for the course. Those last few hours of I suppose that's par for the course. Those last few hours of thrashing down through the woods, crossing the river via the ca- thrashing down through the woods, crossing the river via the cable car and making our way back to the car seemed to go on for- ble car and making our way back to the car seemed to go on forever, but it was a satisfying end to an excellent trip. ever, but it was a satisfying end to an excellent trip.

I think part of me would have been disappointed if the last five I think part of me would have been disappointed if the last five kilometres had been easy. kilometres had been easy.

This trip was the most fun I had all year. This trip was the most fun I had all year.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 144 144

Crevasse Ball Room Crevasse Ball Room Mount Fairweather Attempt Mount Fairweather Attempt April 17 – May 16, 1999 April 17 – May 16, 1999 Fred Touche Fred Touche

For sheer splendour and discomfort, try a kayak/ski ap- For sheer splendour and discomfort, try a kayak/ski approach to Mount Fairweather (4663 m), a rugged peak straddling proach to Mount Fairweather (4663 m), a rugged peak straddling the Alaska-British Columbia border. The mountain is renowned the Alaska-British Columbia border. The mountain is renowned for its elaborate access and unpleasant weather. for its elaborate access and unpleasant weather.

April 13-16 April 13-16

Kayaks and skis were strapped to the roof of the over- Kayaks and skis were strapped to the roof of the overloaded Tercel while the trunk and backseat were crammed with a loaded Tercel while the trunk and backseat were crammed with a bewildering mix of saltwater and glacier-travel gear. On the drive bewildering mix of saltwater and glacier-travel gear. On the drive from Vancouver to Skagway, an air-blast from an oncoming trac- from Vancouver to Skagway, an air-blast from an oncoming trac- tor-trailer partially separated the roof rack from the car. Fortu- tor-trailer partially separated the roof rack from the car. Fortu- nately our possessions stayed on. We camped in a snow bank nately our possessions stayed on. We camped in a snow bank somewhere between Prince George and Dawson Creek for our somewhere between Prince George and Dawson Creek for our first night. first night.

The next day, a service station attendant in Fort St. John, The next day, a service station attendant in Fort St. John, who had conceivably never seen a sea kayak before, questioned who had conceivably never seen a sea kayak before, questioned our sanity. His assessment was reinforced when he saw me stand- our sanity. His assessment was reinforced when he saw me standing in the slush wearing T-shirt, jeans, sandals, and no socks. His ing in the slush wearing T-shirt, jeans, sandals, and no socks. His parting comment was “you’re gonna freeze your ass off”. parting comment was “you’re gonna freeze your ass off”.

In Fort Nelson, we ran into Ed Zenger, a former co- In Fort Nelson, we ran into Ed Zenger, a former co- worker and mountaineer from the Vancouver area, who was in worker and mountaineer from the Vancouver area, who was in town to assess an engineering project. He wished us good luck, town to assess an engineering project. He wished us good luck, especially with the kayaking. especially with the kayaking.

On our second morning, we got our first workout of the On our second morning, we got our first workout of the trip on an un-maintained spur road where the car got stuck in the trip on an un-maintained spur road where the car got stuck in the snow. We shovelled snow and hacked ice for one and a half hours snow. We shovelled snow and hacked ice for one and a half hours before getting the car back onto the highway. Most of the service before getting the car back onto the highway. Most of the service

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 145 145 stations along the Alaska Highway are closed in the off-season stations along the Alaska Highway are closed in the off-season and we nearly ran out of gas near Jakes Corner. and we nearly ran out of gas near Jakes Corner.

The third night, we slept in the freezing car parked beside The third night, we slept in the freezing car parked beside the White Pass border station. A snowstorm and associated ava- the White Pass border station. A snowstorm and associated avalanche had blocked the highway, and we worried about missing lanche had blocked the highway, and we worried about missing our ferry from Skagway, which only departed once a week to our our ferry from Skagway, which only departed once a week to our destination, Hoonah. The highway crews eventually cleared the destination, Hoonah. The highway crews eventually cleared the road and we arrived at the ferry terminal with time to spare. Den- road and we arrived at the ferry terminal with time to spare. Den- nis Bousson, an Alaska Ferry employee and an avid kayaker, used nis Bousson, an Alaska Ferry employee and an avid kayaker, used his computer to check the weather forecast for us. The following his computer to check the weather forecast for us. The following day would be the only one with predicted sunshine. day would be the only one with predicted sunshine.

We dragged a mountain of gear onto the MS Le Conte, and We dragged a mountain of gear onto the MS Le Conte, and after stops in Haines and Juneau reached Hoonah, a native village after stops in Haines and Juneau reached Hoonah, a native village on Chichagof Island, just off the coast of the Alaska Panhandle. on Chichagof Island, just off the coast of the Alaska Panhandle. The scenery along the way was spectacular. The scenery along the way was spectacular.

April 17 April 17

Arriving in the middle of the night, we immediately looked Arriving in the middle of the night, we immediately looked for a suitable place to launch our kayaks. The only apparent for a suitable place to launch our kayaks. The only apparent launch site was under the ferry ramp. At first, it seemed impossi- launch site was under the ferry ramp. At first, it seemed impossible to pack everything into the kayaks. Our skis and backpacks ble to pack everything into the kayaks. Our skis and backpacks were strapped to the outside; similarly, sleeping bags, down par- were strapped to the outside; similarly, sleeping bags, down par- kas, and foam pads were stuffed into dry-bags and tied to the out- kas, and foam pads were stuffed into dry-bags and tied to the outside. Ivan discovered an excellent way to increase gear density; he side. Ivan discovered an excellent way to increase gear density; he simply used his paddle to pound stuff into the bow and stern. simply used his paddle to pound stuff into the bow and stern. Four hours after arriving, we filled our bottles with water from a Four hours after arriving, we filled our bottles with water from a creek running though a nearby graveyard, and were ready to go. creek running though a nearby graveyard, and were ready to go.

Our trip started innocently in calm seas and dense fog. All Our trip started innocently in calm seas and dense fog. All around, we could hear noise from diesel engines and envisioned around, we could hear noise from diesel engines and envisioned various ramming scenarios. We used a compass to navigate a zig- various ramming scenarios. We used a compass to navigate a zig- zag course across Port Frederick Inlet, reaching a sandy beach just zag course across Port Frederick Inlet, reaching a sandy beach just as the fog lifted. To stabilise Ivan’s narrow kayak, we had attached as the fog lifted. To stabilise Ivan’s narrow kayak, we had attached inflatable pontoons (sponsors) to the side of his kayak. This inflatable pontoons (sponsors) to the side of his kayak. This caused so much drag that he could barely make any headway. caused so much drag that he could barely make any headway.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 146 146 Shortly after crossing the inlet, we removed the pontoons and Shortly after crossing the inlet, we removed the pontoons and never used them again. never used them again.

By following the shore of Chichagof Island we were guided By following the shore of Chichagof Island we were guided to Point Adolphus, a feeding ground for Humpback Whales. to Point Adolphus, a feeding ground for Humpback Whales. Now we were faced with a 13-km open water crossing of Icy Now we were faced with a 13-km open water crossing of Icy Strait to reach the mainland. The conditions were perfect, but Strait to reach the mainland. The conditions were perfect, but Ivan and I were both novice kayakers and fearful of any minor Ivan and I were both novice kayakers and fearful of any minor ripples on the otherwise glassy ocean surface. A powerful outgo- ripples on the otherwise glassy ocean surface. A powerful outgoing tide helped us along for the first half of the crossing. Then we ing tide helped us along for the first half of the crossing. Then we reached a zone where the tidal currents from Glacier Bay were reached a zone where the tidal currents from Glacier Bay were pushing us backward. By paddling like maniacs we were eventu- pushing us backward. By paddling like maniacs we were eventually rewarded with the mudflats of Point Gustavus at the mouth ally rewarded with the mudflats of Point Gustavus at the mouth of Glacier Bay. The crossing had taken about 3 hours. We of Glacier Bay. The crossing had taken about 3 hours. We dragged and carried our overloaded kayaks to above the high-tide dragged and carried our overloaded kayaks to above the high-tide line and set up camp. So far our progress had been excellent, al- line and set up camp. So far our progress had been excellent, already we had paddled 45 km. ready we had paddled 45 km.

Each summer, thousands of tourists stacked inside cruise Each summer, thousands of tourists stacked inside cruise ships and tour boats congregate in Glacier Bay, a 100-km long ships and tour boats congregate in Glacier Bay, a 100-km long inlet, to view the spectacle of ice tumbling into the sea. In 1780, inlet, to view the spectacle of ice tumbling into the sea. In 1780, the whole bay was covered with a kilometre-thick layer of ice. the whole bay was covered with a kilometre-thick layer of ice. Then, the seesaw tidal motion in Icy Strait broke up the snout of Then, the seesaw tidal motion in Icy Strait broke up the snout of the glacier, triggering the most rapid retreat of any glacier wit- the glacier, triggering the most rapid retreat of any glacier wit- nessed by humans. When Captain George Vancouver charted nessed by humans. When Captain George Vancouver charted these waters in 1794, a 10-km inlet had opened up, and by 1880, these waters in 1794, a 10-km inlet had opened up, and by 1880, the ice covering the West Arm had retreated about 80 km. A the ice covering the West Arm had retreated about 80 km. A powerful earthquake in 1899 destroyed most of the Muir Glacier powerful earthquake in 1899 destroyed most of the Muir Glacier that still covered the East Arm, choking the bay with ice frag- that still covered the East Arm, choking the bay with ice frag- ments for several years. Today, the retraction has slowed, with ments for several years. Today, the retraction has slowed, with some glaciers feeding the bay advancing. some glaciers feeding the bay advancing.

As soon as the ice disappeared, life started moving in. As soon as the ice disappeared, life started moving in. Cruising toward the head of Glacier Bay is like travelling back in Cruising toward the head of Glacier Bay is like travelling back in time. Near the mouth of the bay were the ice has been gone the time. Near the mouth of the bay were the ice has been gone the longest, mature spruce-hemlock forests have taken over the land- longest, mature spruce-hemlock forests have taken over the landscape. In contrast, the upper reaches look like moonscapes with scape. In contrast, the upper reaches look like moonscapes with gravel moraines and occasional patches of alder. The bay abounds gravel moraines and occasional patches of alder. The bay abounds

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 147 147 with marine life and the tidal shorelines are covered with clams, with marine life and the tidal shorelines are covered with clams, limpets, kelp, and seaweed. A large number of moose, deer, limpets, kelp, and seaweed. A large number of moose, deer, wolves, and bear live along the shore line. wolves, and bear live along the shore line.

April 18 April 18

A morning tidal current around Point Adolphus created A morning tidal current around Point Adolphus created waves that we didn’t feel comfortable paddling through. We waves that we didn’t feel comfortable paddling through. We waited until low tide, positioned the kayaks near the water line, waited until low tide, positioned the kayaks near the water line, and ingeniously waited for the incoming tide to lift us off, thereby and ingeniously waited for the incoming tide to lift us off, thereby avoiding getting our feet wet. On the way to Bartlett Cove, we avoiding getting our feet wet. On the way to Bartlett Cove, we gained appreciation for what sea kayaks can do. They appeared gained appreciation for what sea kayaks can do. They appeared able to handle rough surf if you didn’t panic and just kept pad- able to handle rough surf if you didn’t panic and just kept paddling. dling.

At Bartlett Cove the park headquarters still hadn’t opened At Bartlett Cove the park headquarters still hadn’t opened for the season, so we didn’t registered our expedition. From a for the season, so we didn’t registered our expedition. From a payphone we called Yaron Kiflawi, our contact in Vancouver, to payphone we called Yaron Kiflawi, our contact in Vancouver, to notify that we had survived the Icy Strait crossing and would call notify that we had survived the Icy Strait crossing and would call again in about a month. again in about a month.

The Beardslee Islands are located just north of Batlett The Beardslee Islands are located just north of Batlett Cove. The land around these islands and other areas in Glacier Cove. The land around these islands and other areas in Glacier Bay are rebounding from the released weight of the former ice Bay are rebounding from the released weight of the former ice sheet. Because of this, the next channel along our route was only sheet. Because of this, the next channel along our route was only passable at high tide. A couple of kilometres up this narrow chan- passable at high tide. A couple of kilometres up this narrow channel, the current became so strong that we were getting nowhere in nel, the current became so strong that we were getting nowhere in spite of paddling all out. We gave up and pitched our tent on Les- spite of paddling all out. We gave up and pitched our tent on Les- ter Island beside a couple of large boulders. The day’s progress ter Island beside a couple of large boulders. The day’s progress had been a measly 12 km. I went for a long walk around the north had been a measly 12 km. I went for a long walk around the north perimeter of the island where I spotted a grazing Moose and came perimeter of the island where I spotted a grazing Moose and came across fresh Black Bear tracks. across fresh Black Bear tracks.

April 19 April 19

The good weather that we had experienced on our first day The good weather that we had experienced on our first day was an anomaly. After hauling the kayaks though deep mud, we was an anomaly. After hauling the kayaks though deep mud, we set off with the wind in our face. At one occasion we beached in set off with the wind in our face. At one occasion we beached in

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 148 148 breaking surf and almost swamped our kayaks trying to get breaking surf and almost swamped our kayaks trying to get ashore. Our next stop was a picturesque island where a curious ashore. Our next stop was a picturesque island where a curious Black Bear appeared as we were having lunch. Ivan and I quickly Black Bear appeared as we were having lunch. Ivan and I quickly retrieved bear spray and ice axes from the kayak holds and pre- retrieved bear spray and ice axes from the kayak holds and prepared for a fight. Our shouts initially scared the bear off, but the pared for a fight. Our shouts initially scared the bear off, but the slab of salted meat that Ivan had been carving into proved too slab of salted meat that Ivan had been carving into proved too tempting. The bear returned several times, forcing us to cut lunch tempting. The bear returned several times, forcing us to cut lunch short. We scrambled into our boats and retreated into the ocean. short. We scrambled into our boats and retreated into the ocean.

The waves kept getting higher as we reached the last island The waves kept getting higher as we reached the last island of the Beardslee group. When we rounded the furthest point on of the Beardslee group. When we rounded the furthest point on the island, Ivan yelled that things were getting too dangerous and the island, Ivan yelled that things were getting too dangerous and we should turn around. I agreed, but wondered if doing a 180- we should turn around. I agreed, but wondered if doing a 180- degree turn in the prevailing conditions would flip our kayaks. We degree turn in the prevailing conditions would flip our kayaks. We both managed to turn safely and surfed downwind for a short dis- both managed to turn safely and surfed downwind for a short distance to a sheltered area where we pulled in for the night. tance to a sheltered area where we pulled in for the night.

April 20 April 20

To avoid hauling our fully loaded kayaks too far, we would To avoid hauling our fully loaded kayaks too far, we would usually do our final packing as close to the water line as possible. usually do our final packing as close to the water line as possible. During outgoing tides, this would turn into a cat-and-mouse game During outgoing tides, this would turn into a cat-and-mouse game where we would try to pack quickly before the shoreline receded. where we would try to pack quickly before the shoreline receded. Inevitably, we would lose the battle. Inevitably, we would lose the battle.

It rained most of the day but the wind was light. We de- It rained most of the day but the wind was light. We decided conditions were good enough for a crossing to the west side cided conditions were good enough for a crossing to the west side of the bay via the north end of Willoughby Island. For the first of the bay via the north end of Willoughby Island. For the first time, we switched kayaks and Ivan was initiated to paddling a flat- time, we switched kayaks and Ivan was initiated to paddling a flat- bottomed kayak with no rudder in a crosswind. In this type of bottomed kayak with no rudder in a crosswind. In this type of situation, you’re often forced to paddle for long stretches on one situation, you’re often forced to paddle for long stretches on one side only, like paddling a canoe. By the time we reached Wil- side only, like paddling a canoe. By the time we reached Wil- loughby Island, he had rubbed a gash through the left side of the loughby Island, he had rubbed a gash through the left side of the kayak skirt because of his low-arm paddling style and for the rest kayak skirt because of his low-arm paddling style and for the rest of the trip I had the honour of paddling the rudderless. of the trip I had the honour of paddling the rudderless.

We camped on compact snow north of Geikie Inlet. Too We camped on compact snow north of Geikie Inlet. Too soaked to bother cooking, we ate dry rations, crashed out, and soaked to bother cooking, we ate dry rations, crashed out, and

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 149 149 went to sleep. went to sleep.

April 21 April 21

Starting late to take advantage of an incoming tide, we Starting late to take advantage of an incoming tide, we quickly crossed the mouth of Hugh Miller Inlet, and tried to quickly crossed the mouth of Hugh Miller Inlet, and tried to squeeze between shore and a nearby island. Sadly, our map squeeze between shore and a nearby island. Sadly, our map showed a wide channel while reality confronted us with a land showed a wide channel while reality confronted us with a land bridge. This was a classic example of where the land had risen bridge. This was a classic example of where the land had risen since the last map update. Rather than backtrack and circumnavi- since the last map update. Rather than backtrack and circumnavi- gate the island, we portaged. In places, the mud was well above gate the island, we portaged. In places, the mud was well above the ankles, and several times our shoes stayed in the mud while the ankles, and several times our shoes stayed in the mud while our feet pulled out of the shoes. our feet pulled out of the shoes.

Rounding the Gilbert Peninsula, we noticed chunks of ice Rounding the Gilbert Peninsula, we noticed chunks of ice of various shapes and sizes floating around the bay. We stopped of various shapes and sizes floating around the bay. We stopped for a break at a beach near Scidmore Bay and then continued for a break at a beach near Scidmore Bay and then continued north west for about 2 km. Ivan all of a sudden noticed that his north west for about 2 km. Ivan all of a sudden noticed that his sunglasses were missing and remembered leaving them on the sunglasses were missing and remembered leaving them on the beach. I waited by a Viking-shaped iceberg as he paddled back to- beach. I waited by a Viking-shaped iceberg as he paddled back toward the beach. ward the beach.

Ivan had decided that walking was easier than paddling so Ivan had decided that walking was easier than paddling so he pulled to shore short of where he had left the sunglasses, then he pulled to shore short of where he had left the sunglasses, then walked rest of the distance along the beach. He retrieved the sun- walked rest of the distance along the beach. He retrieved the sunglasses that were by now under water and then started back to- glasses that were by now under water and then started back toward his kayak. I could see a distant dot moving rapidly along the ward his kayak. I could see a distant dot moving rapidly along the shore. Apparently, Ivan’s kayak had been carried away by the ris- shore. Apparently, Ivan’s kayak had been carried away by the ris- ing tide and he had barely got to it in time. ing tide and he had barely got to it in time.

We camped 3 km short of Reid Inlet. We camped 3 km short of Reid Inlet.

April 22 April 22

In the morning while Ivan was still asleep, I hiked through In the morning while Ivan was still asleep, I hiked through deep snow to a ridge above camp, trying to catch a glimpse of the deep snow to a ridge above camp, trying to catch a glimpse of the Reid Glacier. Unfortunately, some hills blocked the view. Reid Glacier. Unfortunately, some hills blocked the view.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 150 150 Returning to camp, a storm from the south rolled in, bring- Returning to camp, a storm from the south rolled in, bringing strong winds and heavy rain. Realising that it would be suicide ing strong winds and heavy rain. Realising that it would be suicide to paddle in those conditions, we confined ourselves to the tent to paddle in those conditions, we confined ourselves to the tent all day. The rain turned to snow that continued falling through the all day. The rain turned to snow that continued falling through the night. night.

April 23 April 23

The snow turned to sleet, then back to rain. By evening, The snow turned to sleet, then back to rain. By evening, the rain had stopped but the wind was still blowing hard. That’s the rain had stopped but the wind was still blowing hard. That’s when I finished reading my first novel. when I finished reading my first novel.

April 24 April 24

The water was still somewhat choppy and our altimeter The water was still somewhat choppy and our altimeter showed that the air pressure was dropping but we decided to showed that the air pressure was dropping but we decided to move because conditions looked much better than they had been move because conditions looked much better than they had been for the last few days. We saw our first tidewater glacier while for the last few days. We saw our first tidewater glacier while crossing Reid Inlet. Then, just around the corner, the Lamplugh crossing Reid Inlet. Then, just around the corner, the Lamplugh Glacier came into view as we crossed John Hopkins Inlet. The Glacier came into view as we crossed John Hopkins Inlet. The latter inlet is completely packed with ice at its upper reaches. A latter inlet is completely packed with ice at its upper reaches. A huge sea lion lying on a rock greeted us at the start of Tarr Inlet, huge sea lion lying on a rock greeted us at the start of Tarr Inlet, the most remote inlet in Glacier Bay. On a hill above, two Grizzly the most remote inlet in Glacier Bay. On a hill above, two Grizzly Bears ran off as we paddled by. Regrettably, they seemed to be Bears ran off as we paddled by. Regrettably, they seemed to be escaping toward our next intended campsite. escaping toward our next intended campsite.

Ivan’s feet were going numb from the cold water that had Ivan’s feet were going numb from the cold water that had accumulated on the bottom of his cockpit and we pulled into a accumulated on the bottom of his cockpit and we pulled into a beach covered with small icebergs to warm his feet. After his feet beach covered with small icebergs to warm his feet. After his feet warmed up, we continued to the head of Tarr Inlet where we warmed up, we continued to the head of Tarr Inlet where we forced our kayaks through bands of floating ice to set up camp on forced our kayaks through bands of floating ice to set up camp on a snow-covered gravel moraine that was squeezed into a 300-m a snow-covered gravel moraine that was squeezed into a 300-m gap between the Margerie and Grand Pacific tidewater glaciers. gap between the Margerie and Grand Pacific tidewater glaciers.

Our earlier worries about finding a suitable place for camp- Our earlier worries about finding a suitable place for camping and stashing our kayaks had been groundless. We deemed our ing and stashing our kayaks had been groundless. We deemed our

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 151 151 location near perfect, about 15 m above the high tide mark and location near perfect, about 15 m above the high tide mark and safe from being swamped by waves caused by ice falling into the safe from being swamped by waves caused by ice falling into the ocean. Also, the moraine looked stable despite sitting on top of ocean. Also, the moraine looked stable despite sitting on top of old ice. We erroneously believed that an area between two glaciers old ice. We erroneously believed that an area between two glaciers would be free of bears. would be free of bears.

All night long we listened to the thunder of calving ice. All night long we listened to the thunder of calving ice.

East Side Camp East Side Camp Photo: Fred Touche Photo: Fred Touche

April 25 April 25

Our choice of routes to reach the plateau north of Mount Our choice of routes to reach the plateau north of Mount Fairweather involved travelling on either the Margerie Glacier or Fairweather involved travelling on either the Margerie Glacier or the Grand Pacific/Ferris Glacier. From our campsite, the Grand the Grand Pacific/Ferris Glacier. From our campsite, the Grand Pacific route looked easy, like a snow highway, but according to Pacific route looked easy, like a snow highway, but according to the map its final path to the plateau was much steeper than the the map its final path to the plateau was much steeper than the Margerie route. Margerie route.

The Margerie’s surface was an unbelievable jumble of bro- The Margerie’s surface was an unbelievable jumble of broken ice blocks and crevasses, but a creek bed that ran along its ken ice blocks and crevasses, but a creek bed that ran along its north west flank appeared to offer easy passage to higher, and we north west flank appeared to offer easy passage to higher, and we hoped, smoother ground. I spent several hours on skis scouting hoped, smoother ground. I spent several hours on skis scouting out this route. The upper creek bed crossed numerous avalanche out this route. The upper creek bed crossed numerous avalanche paths but a steep gully further up looked like a viable way to get paths but a steep gully further up looked like a viable way to get

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 152 152 onto the glacier. onto the glacier.

We spent the rest of the day getting ready for the second We spent the rest of the day getting ready for the second phase of our trip, stuffing mountain gear and 16 days of food into phase of our trip, stuffing mountain gear and 16 days of food into our backpacks and Crazy Carpet sleds. Salt water had corroded our backpacks and Crazy Carpet sleds. Salt water had corroded our ice screws, pitons, carabiners, ski edges, and other metal items our ice screws, pitons, carabiners, ski edges, and other metal items and steady drizzle kept things from drying out. To prevent the and steady drizzle kept things from drying out. To prevent the kayaks from sliding off the moraine and into the ocean as the kayaks from sliding off the moraine and into the ocean as the snow melted, we dug a deep trench in the snow and placed the snow melted, we dug a deep trench in the snow and placed the kayaks upside down in this trench. kayaks upside down in this trench.

April 26 April 26 We strapped on our skis and followed a progressively nar- We strapped on our skis and followed a progressively narrower path between seracs and rock walls. The skins on Ivan’s rower path between seracs and rock walls. The skins on Ivan’s skis weren’t gripping too well and his Crazy Carpet sled would of- skis weren’t gripping too well and his Crazy Carpet sled would often flip over. By the time we reached a point where the glacier ten flip over. By the time we reached a point where the glacier touches the side of the valley, slush and rock avalanches triggered touches the side of the valley, slush and rock avalanches triggered by the morning sun were coming down. Alarm bells were clearly by the morning sun were coming down. Alarm bells were clearly sounding in my mind but Ivan didn’t seem overly concerned as sounding in my mind but Ivan didn’t seem overly concerned as we temporarily abandoned our sleds and scrambled up the gully we temporarily abandoned our sleds and scrambled up the gully to safety. to safety.

While waiting for the sun to move away from our side of While waiting for the sun to move away from our side of the valley, I went for a long route finding mission on Ivan’s skis. the valley, I went for a long route finding mission on Ivan’s skis. A jumble of snow-covered ice blocks blocked the route straight A jumble of snow-covered ice blocks blocked the route straight ahead. Amazingly, just 100 m from the edge of the glacier, a snow ahead. Amazingly, just 100 m from the edge of the glacier, a snow -covered gravel moraine bridged the broken surface. The moraine -covered gravel moraine bridged the broken surface. The moraine ended after about 1 km, but by now, the glacier surface was cov- ended after about 1 km, but by now, the glacier surface was covered only by ordinary crevasses. I zigzagged through the crevassed ered only by ordinary crevasses. I zigzagged through the crevassed section and reached a second moraine that I followed until it also section and reached a second moraine that I followed until it also ran out, and then continued through more crevasses to a point ran out, and then continued through more crevasses to a point just past the Margerie Fork. Here I turned back because of dehy- just past the Margerie Fork. Here I turned back because of dehydration but smooth snow was visible beyond the last crevasse dration but smooth snow was visible beyond the last crevasse field. field.

I returned to Ivan via a slightly different route. We waited I returned to Ivan via a slightly different route. We waited until the whole ridge facing our side of the valley was in the shade until the whole ridge facing our side of the valley was in the shade and no avalanches had come down for a couple of hours. Then, and no avalanches had come down for a couple of hours. Then,

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 153 153 we climbed down to our sleds and used a rope to haul them we climbed down to our sleds and used a rope to haul them across a cracked up section. One skin had come off one of my across a cracked up section. One skin had come off one of my skis during the morning panic but I found it by backtracking a skis during the morning panic but I found it by backtracking a short distance past the sleds. short distance past the sleds.

Hauling the sleds to the top of the gully was pure grunt Hauling the sleds to the top of the gully was pure grunt work and we stopped for the night at the beginning of the first work and we stopped for the night at the beginning of the first moraine. moraine.

April 27 April 27

Under partly cloudy conditions and after a late start, we fol- Under partly cloudy conditions and after a late start, we followed my previous day’s tracks to the end of the first moraine. lowed my previous day’s tracks to the end of the first moraine. We unsuccessfully tried to find an easier path though the cre- We unsuccessfully tried to find an easier path though the crevasses that followed and instead cut back to the scouted route. vasses that followed and instead cut back to the scouted route. Past the second moraine, the next zone of crevasses was easier to Past the second moraine, the next zone of crevasses was easier to negotiate and we reached smooth snow at last. negotiate and we reached smooth snow at last.

Through the deteriorating visibility, another crevassed area Through the deteriorating visibility, another crevassed area emerged along our path. This required more scouting. It started emerged along our path. This required more scouting. It started snowing about an hour after leaving the last crevasses, and we snowing about an hour after leaving the last crevasses, and we called it a day. Through the fog, we could see yet more crevasses called it a day. Through the fog, we could see yet more crevasses ahead, but they would be the next day’s problem. ahead, but they would be the next day’s problem.

April 28 April 28

Because of whiteout conditions we used a GPS and com- Because of whiteout conditions we used a GPS and compass to navigate. Luckily, a strip of smooth snow ran through the pass to navigate. Luckily, a strip of smooth snow ran through the middle of the next set of crevasses. Then we made swift progress middle of the next set of crevasses. Then we made swift progress through a vast undulating crevasse-free region. Although we through a vast undulating crevasse-free region. Although we couldn’t see very far through the fog, we became gradually aware couldn’t see very far through the fog, we became gradually aware of something unpleasant lying ahead. of something unpleasant lying ahead.

According to the map, the upper section of the valley According to the map, the upper section of the valley steepens and widens to about 3 km. As we approached, a wall of steepens and widens to about 3 km. As we approached, a wall of snow-covered seracs came into view and we stopped, waiting an snow-covered seracs came into view and we stopped, waiting an hour for better visibility. The visibility didn’t improve and we hour for better visibility. The visibility didn’t improve and we pitched our tent for the night. pitched our tent for the night.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 154 154

April 29 April 29

A snowstorm kept us inside our tent the whole day. By A snowstorm kept us inside our tent the whole day. By evening, it cleared a bit, revealing fuzzy scenery but we could still evening, it cleared a bit, revealing fuzzy scenery but we could still not see what lay ahead. not see what lay ahead.

April 30 April 30

At last clear weather! A veritable Maginot Line of broken At last clear weather! A veritable Maginot Line of broken ice and crevasses stretching right across the valley lay ahead of us. ice and crevasses stretching right across the valley lay ahead of us. Initially we had entertained the notion of skirting the icefall along Initially we had entertained the notion of skirting the icefall along a ridge to the right or through avalanche slopes to the left, but a ridge to the right or through avalanche slopes to the left, but now a potential route revealed itself right through the centre of now a potential route revealed itself right through the centre of the ice field. the ice field. I started a long reconnaissance ski trip and followed an ob- I started a long reconnaissance ski trip and followed an obvious path through the snow-covered ice blocks. The route was vious path through the snow-covered ice blocks. The route was initially easy, became progressively more difficult, and ended in a initially easy, became progressively more difficult, and ended in a series of tightly packed series of tightly packed crevasses somewhere near crevasses somewhere near the upper icefall. The ter- the upper icefall. The terrain ahead didn’t look rain ahead didn’t look passable but I thought passable but I thought that with more scouting that with more scouting we would find a way we would find a way through. I returned to through. I returned to camp. Ivan who had a camp. Ivan who had a better perspective from better perspective from his vantage point about 3 his vantage point about 3 km away had seen me km away had seen me near the top of the icefall near the top of the icefall and wondered why I had- and wondered why I had- n’t continued all the way n’t continued all the way to the top. to the top.

Below the Icefall. Mt Faiweather Below the Icefall. Mt Faiweather Photo: Fred Touche Photo: Fred Touche

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 155 155 We started hauling up our gear along the scouted tracks. We started hauling up our gear along the scouted tracks. The snow bridges somehow seemed more dangerous when carry- The snow bridges somehow seemed more dangerous when carrying heavy loads. The weather rapidly deteriorated and Ivan was ing heavy loads. The weather rapidly deteriorated and Ivan was going snow-blind so we stopped, camping on a hump right in the going snow-blind so we stopped, camping on a hump right in the middle of the icefall. middle of the icefall.

Ivan did all the cooking and cleaning, as I was too ex- Ivan did all the cooking and cleaning, as I was too exhausted too be of much use. In a strange twist, the ice briefly hausted too be of much use. In a strange twist, the ice briefly moved beneath our tent. We couldn’t decide if the cause was an moved beneath our tent. We couldn’t decide if the cause was an earthquake or just normal glacial movement. earthquake or just normal glacial movement.

May 1 May 1

A storm that dumped 40 cm of snow kept us readig novels A storm that dumped 40 cm of snow kept us reading nov- for most of the day. Venturing more that a few meters from the els for most of the day. Venturing more that a few meters from tent without skis looked suicidal because of the ever-present the tent without skis looked suicidal because of the ever-present cracks that surrounded us. cracks that surrounded us.

May 2 May 2

Another 30 cm of snow fell overnight but it cleared up in Another 30 cm of snow fell overnight but it cleared up in the morning and we redoubled our route finding efforts. While the morning and we redoubled our route finding efforts. While searching for an alternate route, I got myself into an unnerving searching for an alternate route, I got myself into an unnerving situation as I side-stepped down a steep slope. First my left ski situation as I side-stepped down a steep slope. First my left ski pole punched into a deep chasm and then two steps further my pole punched into a deep chasm and then two steps further my right pole broke through on the other side of me. By continually right pole broke through on the other side of me. By continually probing I managed to reach my tracks from two days earlier but probing I managed to reach my tracks from two days earlier but was now reluctant to explore any new terrain. was now reluctant to explore any new terrain.

Ivan managed to find a difficult route through the final part Ivan managed to find a difficult route through the final part of the ice field, while I shuttled the rest of our stuff to the end of of the ice field, while I shuttled the rest of our stuff to the end of my initial tracks. We used the rope to pull our loads up a bulge my initial tracks. We used the rope to pull our loads up a bulge and then roped up through an area of harrowing crevasses. Above and then roped up through an area of harrowing crevasses. Above the icefall, we set up camp. The temperature dropped to -13° C, the icefall, we set up camp. The temperature dropped to -13° C, which we hoped meant that a high-pressure system was building. which we hoped meant that a high-pressure system was building. Our effort had brought us a paltry 1 km past our last camp. Our effort had brought us a paltry 1 km past our last camp.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 156 156 May 3 May 3

The first section above camp was crevasse-free, but we The first section above camp was crevasse-free, but we soon encountered huge, kilometre-long crevasses perpendicular to soon encountered huge, kilometre-long crevasses perpendicular to our line of travel. Extensive scouting revealed no viable way our line of travel. Extensive scouting revealed no viable way through and we instead moved laterally to the north side of the through and we instead moved laterally to the north side of the valley. Here, our only obstacle was one lone crevasse. I dropped valley. Here, our only obstacle was one lone crevasse. I dropped my pack and sled at the rim of the crevasse to search for a snow my pack and sled at the rim of the crevasse to search for a snow bridge. I found a narrow, scary bridge and yelled at Ivan, who was bridge. I found a narrow, scary bridge and yelled at Ivan, who was several hundred meters behind me, to short cut directly to the several hundred meters behind me, to short cut directly to the snow bridge rather than follow my tracks. snow bridge rather than follow my tracks.

Just before returning to my pack, I heard him repeatedly Just before returning to my pack, I heard him repeatedly calling my name; the tone of his voice spelled trouble. Later he calling my name; the tone of his voice spelled trouble. Later he told me that he had mistook my pack for me sitting down and told me that he had mistook my pack for me sitting down and sipping tea. I couldn’t see him because of a strategically placed sipping tea. I couldn’t see him because of a strategically placed bump but skied at full speed toward him. A couple of minutes bump but skied at full speed toward him. A couple of minutes later, I found him in a precarious position spanning across a nar- later, I found him in a precarious position spanning across a narrow but deep crevasse. He had kept himself from falling by stem- row but deep crevasse. He had kept himself from falling by stemming his body across the lip of the crevasse. His chest and elbows ming his body across the lip of the crevasse. His chest and elbows were against one wall. One of his legs was pushing against the op- were against one wall. One of his legs was pushing against the opposite wall and the other leg dangling in free space. Every time he posite wall and the other leg dangling in free space. Every time he tried to move, parts of the snow around his elbows would give tried to move, parts of the snow around his elbows would give way and his stemming leg was going numb from exertion. Luckily, way and his stemming leg was going numb from exertion. Luckily, his sled had not fallen in. his sled had not fallen in.

First, I reached for the rope inside his sled and passed one First, I reached for the rope inside his sled and passed one end of the rope to him. It proved impossible for Ivan to wrap the end of the rope to him. It proved impossible for Ivan to wrap the rope around himself without disturbing his tenuous position and I rope around himself without disturbing his tenuous position and I didn’t dare risk falling in by getting too close. Instead I probed the didn’t dare risk falling in by getting too close. Instead I probed the extents of the crevasse with a ski pole and discovered that Ivan extents of the crevasse with a ski pole and discovered that Ivan had skied into the crevasse at an angle of about 45°. I removed had skied into the crevasse at an angle of about 45°. I removed my skis, and managed to jamb one ski under his body and across my skis, and managed to jamb one ski under his body and across the crevasse. This lessened the urgency of the situation and he the crevasse. This lessened the urgency of the situation and he slowly unbuckled his pack, which he passed over to me. Then I slowly unbuckled his pack, which he passed over to me. Then I hauled him to safety by grabbing one of his arms. hauled him to safety by grabbing one of his arms.

Disturbingly, there was no surface indication that a cre- Disturbingly, there was no surface indication that a cre-

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 157 157 vasse lurked below and this incident exposed the serious danger vasse lurked below and this incident exposed the serious danger of travelling un-roped. of travelling un-roped.

Ivan sensibly insisted on a full belay when we crossed the Ivan sensibly insisted on a full belay when we crossed the snow bridge. The last of the unavoidable crevasses was now be- snow bridge. The last of the unavoidable crevasses was now behind us and we angled back toward the south side of the valley. hind us and we angled back toward the south side of the valley. Later that day we reached the broad, 3000-m high plateau below Later that day we reached the broad, 3000-m high plateau below Mount Quincy Adams where we set up camp. Mount Quincy Adams where we set up camp.

May 4-6 May 4-6

A vicious storm pounded us without interruption for three A vicious storm pounded us without interruption for three days. The temperature dropped to -22 C and the wind drove snow days. The temperature dropped to -22 C and the wind drove snow sideways across the plateau with the intensity of a sandblaster. sideways across the plateau with the intensity of a sandblaster. Going outside the tent would invite rapid frostbite to any exposed Going outside the tent would invite rapid frostbite to any exposed skin. On several occasions, our tent was in danger of being flat- skin. On several occasions, our tent was in danger of being flat- tened by the build-up of snow. tened by the build-up of snow.

With each passing day, our goal of reaching the summit of With each passing day, our goal of reaching the summit of Mount Fairweather would slip away. Ivan however took full ad- Mount Fairweather would slip away. Ivan however took full advantage of our situation to catch up on months of insufficient vantage of our situation to catch up on months of insufficient sleep. sleep.

May 7 May 7 By the time the storm let up, in excess of one meter of soft By the time the storm let up, in excess of one meter of soft snow covered the ground. The surrounding mountains were still snow covered the ground. The surrounding mountains were still hidden by fog but patches of blue sky appeared here and there. hidden by fog but patches of blue sky appeared here and there. We had left most of our gear outside and spent a considerable We had left most of our gear outside and spent a considerable amount of time trying to find stuff under the snow. With only five amount of time trying to find stuff under the snow. With only five days of food left and the summit at least two days away, we made days of food left and the summit at least two days away, we made the painful but prudent decision to abandon our climb and search the painful but prudent decision to abandon our climb and search for an easier descent route to the kayaks. Little did we know that for an easier descent route to the kayaks. Little did we know that we would be blessed with fine weather for the next 8 days. we would be blessed with fine weather for the next 8 days.

We pulled our sleds through deep snow to the north edge We pulled our sleds through deep snow to the north edge of the plateau, trying to find a reasonable way down to the Ferris of the plateau, trying to find a reasonable way down to the Ferris Glacier. Intermittent breaks in the fog revealed three steep, cre- Glacier. Intermittent breaks in the fog revealed three steep, crevasse-infested, and avalanche-prone descent routes. After a brief vasse-infested, and avalanche-prone descent routes. After a brief

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 158 158 discussion, we decided it would be safer to return along the Mar- discussion, we decided it would be safer to return along the Mar- gerie Route. We retraced our track, which now resembled a bob- gerie Route. We retraced our track, which now resembled a bob- sled run, to our last campsite. sled run, to our last campsite.

May 8 May 8

We skied roped together because many previously visible We skied roped together because many previously visible crevasses were now hidden by snow. By now, the snow was rea- crevasses were now hidden by snow. By now, the snow was rea- sonably compact and we quickly moved down toward the dreaded sonably compact and we quickly moved down toward the dreaded Maginot Line. This time, we managed to avoid most of the upper Maginot Line. This time, we managed to avoid most of the upper crevasses by travelling close to the northern edge of the valley but crevasses by travelling close to the northern edge of the valley but further down, a snow bulge blocked our path. We un-roped and further down, a snow bulge blocked our path. We un-roped and started carving a snow bollard to use as a rappel anchor. As I was started carving a snow bollard to use as a rappel anchor. As I was setting up the rappel, Ivan broke through a hidden crevasse and setting up the rappel, Ivan broke through a hidden crevasse and again managed to jamb himself across the two ice walls. This time again managed to jamb himself across the two ice walls. This time he stayed perfectly calm and I easily pulled him to safety. The un- he stayed perfectly calm and I easily pulled him to safety. The un- derlying principle puzzled me, why was he always falling through derlying principle puzzled me, why was he always falling through while I seemed to float above the mayhem? while I seemed to float above the mayhem?

Ivan’s troubles weren’t quite over yet. Because of the awk- Ivan’s troubles weren’t quite over yet. Because of the awkward location of the rappel anchor, he unwillingly rappelled into a ward location of the rappel anchor, he unwillingly rappelled into a small, preciously unseen crevasse below the bulge. He cursed his small, preciously unseen crevasse below the bulge. He cursed his way down to the bottom of the crevasse where he left his pack way down to the bottom of the crevasse where he left his pack tied to the end of the rope. Then he used the rope to climb out tied to the end of the rope. Then he used the rope to climb out and pull the pack out. and pull the pack out.

Shortly after leaving the bulge behind, I was rudely re- Shortly after leaving the bulge behind, I was rudely reminded of my complacency. Unwittingly I had tried to cross a minded of my complacency. Unwittingly I had tried to cross a weak snow bridge spanning a 2-m wide crevasse with 180-cm skis. weak snow bridge spanning a 2-m wide crevasse with 180-cm skis. In a blur, I remember falling headfirst and being pelted by snow In a blur, I remember falling headfirst and being pelted by snow and ice. I saw blood on the ice wall and was absolutely certain that and ice. I saw blood on the ice wall and was absolutely certain that I was simultaneously being smashed to pieces and buried alive. I was simultaneously being smashed to pieces and buried alive. The rope stopped me in mid-air. Ivan had evidently held my fall, The rope stopped me in mid-air. Ivan had evidently held my fall, which surprised me given the severity of the forces and the down- which surprised me given the severity of the forces and the down- slope between him and the crevasse. The weight of my pack kept slope between him and the crevasse. The weight of my pack kept me hanging upside down and the waist belt of my pack had slid me hanging upside down and the waist belt of my pack had slid across my chest, preventing me from breathing. across my chest, preventing me from breathing.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 159 159 I managed to undo the shoulder straps of the pack but for I managed to undo the shoulder straps of the pack but for some reason could not reach the latch of the waist belt. I gave up some reason could not reach the latch of the waist belt. I gave up trying and instead undid my skis, which I jammed into a crack. trying and instead undid my skis, which I jammed into a crack. With great effort, I could now keep my body almost horizontal With great effort, I could now keep my body almost horizontal and was able to take a few short breaths. After several minutes of and was able to take a few short breaths. After several minutes of frantic struggle, I found the waist belt latch and was just about to frantic struggle, I found the waist belt latch and was just about to let go of my pack when I realised that its contents would soon be let go of my pack when I realised that its contents would soon be needed. needed.

Being upright and able to breathe calmed me down consid- Being upright and able to breathe calmed me down considerably and I began assessing the situation. All my limbs seemed to erably and I began assessing the situation. All my limbs seemed to work and a gash above my left eye was not causing any pain. work and a gash above my left eye was not causing any pain. Judging from the narrow slit of light above me, I had fallen about Judging from the narrow slit of light above me, I had fallen about 10 meters and had stopped just above a constriction. I reached 10 meters and had stopped just above a constriction. I reached into my pack, piled on layers of clothing, strapped on my cram- into my pack, piled on layers of clothing, strapped on my crampons, stood up on the constriction, and unclipped from the rope. pons, stood up on the constriction, and unclipped from the rope.

Thankfully, I had connected the back of the Crazy Carpet Thankfully, I had connected the back of the Crazy Carpet to the rope with prussik cord and now the sled was hanging off to the rope with prussik cord and now the sled was hanging off the rope above me. The crevasse wall on the side that I had fallen the rope above me. The crevasse wall on the side that I had fallen from was vertical with an overhang near the top. The far side from was vertical with an overhang near the top. The far side looked better: 75-degree ice on the lower portion, then vertical, looked better: 75-degree ice on the lower portion, then vertical, compact snow higher up with no overhang. Ivan threw down the compact snow higher up with no overhang. Ivan threw down the free end of the rope, which I tied into. He then belayed me as I free end of the rope, which I tied into. He then belayed me as I climbed up using my two ice axes. A few meters below the lip, the climbed up using my two ice axes. A few meters below the lip, the snow was too soft to provide any appreciable grip. By jamming snow was too soft to provide any appreciable grip. By jamming the shafts of the ice axes into the snow I slowly progressed up- the shafts of the ice axes into the snow I slowly progressed upward until one ice axe popped out; I fell but was caught by Ivan’s ward until one ice axe popped out; I fell but was caught by Ivan’s belay. I hung off the harness for a while and then attempted to belay. I hung off the harness for a while and then attempted to climb the near wall. Plunging the shafts of the ice axes into the climb the near wall. Plunging the shafts of the ice axes into the snow got me to the overhang where my upward progress came to snow got me to the overhang where my upward progress came to a frustrating halt. Using the bite of the rope, Ivan lowered down a a frustrating halt. Using the bite of the rope, Ivan lowered down a loop of prussik cord that I tied onto the rope with a slipknot. loop of prussik cord that I tied onto the rope with a slipknot. Standing on the loop, I hacked away part of the overhang with the Standing on the loop, I hacked away part of the overhang with the ice axe and, with the help of the rope, finally dragged myself into ice axe and, with the help of the rope, finally dragged myself into the sunshine. the sunshine.

Ivan volunteered to be lowered into the crevasse to retrieve Ivan volunteered to be lowered into the crevasse to retrieve

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 160 160 the gear; the only items he couldn't find were my sunglasses and a the gear; the only items he couldn't find were my sunglasses and a snow picket. I was too spooked to continue, so we set up camp snow picket. I was too spooked to continue, so we set up camp right beside the crevasse. Worries about the numerous crevasse right beside the crevasse. Worries about the numerous crevasse crossings that we would have to negotiate before reaching the crossings that we would have to negotiate before reaching the ocean kept me awake all night. ocean kept me awake all night.

May 9 May 9

We spent most of he day route finding and double-carrying We spent most of he day route finding and double-carrying though a never-ending series of bulges and cracks. On one occa- though a never-ending series of bulges and cracks. On one occasion, probing with a ski pole uncovered a hole right beside us. sion, probing with a ski pole uncovered a hole right beside us.

In the end, the tedious work paid off and we made it In the end, the tedious work paid off and we made it through most of the icefall without further incidents. through most of the icefall without further incidents.

May 10 May 10

Just past camp, we belayed across one last crevasse and Just past camp, we belayed across one last crevasse and then un-roped for long stretch of pleasant skiing. In perfect visi- then un-roped for long stretch of pleasant skiing. In perfect visibility, we completely avoided a crevasse field that we had partially bility, we completely avoided a crevasse field that we had partially gone through on the way up. About 13 km short of the water, we gone through on the way up. About 13 km short of the water, we roped together and zigzagged our way through crevasses to the roped together and zigzagged our way through crevasses to the second moraine. second moraine.

May 11 May 11

Remarkably, faint outlines of our upward tracks were still Remarkably, faint outlines of our upward tracks were still visible from two weeks earlier. The last stretch toward the water visible from two weeks earlier. The last stretch toward the water was treacherous. Several small, green-coloured lakes had formed was treacherous. Several small, green-coloured lakes had formed on top of the glacier and many new crevasses had opened up, on top of the glacier and many new crevasses had opened up, some right across our old tracks, compelling us to take several de- some right across our old tracks, compelling us to take several de- tours. tours.

By early afternoon, we reached the lower end of the first By early afternoon, we reached the lower end of the first moraine. Avalanches were tumbling down across our route so we moraine. Avalanches were tumbling down across our route so we took a long break. By evening, the avalanches stopped and we took a long break. By evening, the avalanches stopped and we down-climbed to the bottom of the gully. The snow-bridges that down-climbed to the bottom of the gully. The snow-bridges that we had used on our way up were completely gone and we used we had used on our way up were completely gone and we used

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 161 161 the rope to rappel, and shuttle our gear, across a portion of the the rope to rappel, and shuttle our gear, across a portion of the glacier that was pressing against a rock bluff. A waterfall was cas- glacier that was pressing against a rock bluff. A waterfall was cas- cading under the ice below us. cading under the ice below us.

Two mountain goats gazed at us from above on our last leg Two mountain goats gazed at us from above on our last leg toward the water. We had stashed food in one of the kayak’s bulk- toward the water. We had stashed food in one of the kayak’s bulk- head. Fresh tracks showed that a Grizzly had wondered very close head. Fresh tracks showed that a Grizzly had wondered very close to our kayaks. If the bear had smelled our food, the kayak would to our kayaks. If the bear had smelled our food, the kayak would doubtless have been destroyed. We spotted the bear on a hill doubtless have been destroyed. We spotted the bear on a hill above us as we were eating dinner but it was fortunately moving above us as we were eating dinner but it was fortunately moving away from us. away from us.

May 12 May 12

We lounged in our sleeping bags listening to the distant We lounged in our sleeping bags listening to the distant drone of a diesel engine. A cruise ship was floating near the termi- drone of a diesel engine. A cruise ship was floating near the termi- nus of the Margerie Glacier. I could see camera flashes from the nus of the Margerie Glacier. I could see camera flashes from the ship as I went for my usual morning urination routine. Later, an- ship as I went for my usual morning urination routine. Later, another cruise ship arrived followed by several smaller tour boats, other cruise ship arrived followed by several smaller tour boats, giving us a sense that we were no longer in real wilderness. giving us a sense that we were no longer in real wilderness.

After launching our kayaks through a dense band of float- After launching our kayaks through a dense band of floating ice chunks, we paddled to the east side of the bay to skirt ing ice chunks, we paddled to the east side of the bay to skirt around the worst of the ice, occasionally glancing back at the Mar- around the worst of the ice, occasionally glancing back at the Mar- gerie Glacier, our home for the last couple of weeks. Perfect gerie Glacier, our home for the last couple of weeks. Perfect weather, an outgoing tide, and the wind in our backs, made us feel weather, an outgoing tide, and the wind in our backs, made us feel like on a leisure holiday. Further down the inlet, we bumped into like on a leisure holiday. Further down the inlet, we bumped into a couple from Colorado who were on a three-week ski/paddle a couple from Colorado who were on a three-week ski/paddle trip. We held our kayaks together in a cluster while exchanging trip. We held our kayaks together in a cluster while exchanging stories and goodies; they were desperate for chocolate and we stories and goodies; they were desperate for chocolate and we wanted anything that didn’t resemble our daily diet. They told us wanted anything that didn’t resemble our daily diet. They told us to avoid certain areas of the bay because of bears. to avoid certain areas of the bay because of bears.

Continuing around Russel Island, we found an excellent Continuing around Russel Island, we found an excellent campsite just short of Rendu Inlet. Eagles swooped down around campsite just short of Rendu Inlet. Eagles swooped down around us as we prepared dinner. us as we prepared dinner.

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While Ivan was asleep, I couldn’t resist going for a morning While Ivan was asleep, I couldn’t resist going for a morning walk along the magnificent shoreline. The rocks were covered in walk along the magnificent shoreline. The rocks were covered in clams, limpets, and other assorted marine life. clams, limpets, and other assorted marine life.

Hoping for a repeat of the previous day’s conditions, we Hoping for a repeat of the previous day’s conditions, we started late to take advantage of an outgoing tide. Just after cross- started late to take advantage of an outgoing tide. Just after crossing Queens Inlet, the waves reached a height of about 2 meters, ing Queens Inlet, the waves reached a height of about 2 meters, scaring us out of our comfort level. We miraculously found a scaring us out of our comfort level. We miraculously found a small, sheltered cove and pulled to shore for a 5-hour wait. small, sheltered cove and pulled to shore for a 5-hour wait.

By evening the ocean calmed down a bit and we paddled By evening the ocean calmed down a bit and we paddled toward the mouth of Muir Inlet. It turned dead calm as night ap- toward the mouth of Muir Inlet. It turned dead calm as night approached and we continued in the dark, determined not to miss proached and we continued in the dark, determined not to miss an opportunity to cross Muir Inlet. Halfway across, we got broad- an opportunity to cross Muir Inlet. Halfway across, we got broad- sided by waves from Muir Inlet, and like a bad dream, it seemed sided by waves from Muir Inlet, and like a bad dream, it seemed like we were paddling and paddling but not getting anywhere. like we were paddling and paddling but not getting anywhere.

Eventually, the sound of surf breaking against Sturgess Is- Eventually, the sound of surf breaking against Sturgess Is- land indicated that we were getting close. The near beach had no land indicated that we were getting close. The near beach had no good campsites, so we curled around to the lee side of the island good campsites, so we curled around to the lee side of the island and found an excellent spot except that no water was available and found an excellent spot except that no water was available there. there.

May 14 May 14

We landed by a beautiful waterfall to fill up our water bot- We landed by a beautiful waterfall to fill up our water bottles, then took a beeline to the Beardslee Islands. As usual, the tles, then took a beeline to the Beardslee Islands. As usual, the waves grew higher in the afternoon. A few kilometres short of waves grew higher in the afternoon. A few kilometres short of Bartlett Cove, we took a wrong turn in the maze of islands and Bartlett Cove, we took a wrong turn in the maze of islands and found ourselves at a dead end just as a low tide was about to cut found ourselves at a dead end just as a low tide was about to cut off our retreat. We paddled back across increasingly shallower wa- off our retreat. We paddled back across increasingly shallower water and then right into the teeth of the wind. After rounding a ter and then right into the teeth of the wind. After rounding a point, the wind was again in our backs and Ivan recognised the point, the wind was again in our backs and Ivan recognised the two big boulders on Lester Island where we had camped on the two big boulders on Lester Island where we had camped on the way up. A short distance further the channel was dry. We were way up. A short distance further the channel was dry. We were only 2 km from Bartlett Cove, but decided to stay put until the only 2 km from Bartlett Cove, but decided to stay put until the

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 163 163 next day’s high tide. next day’s high tide.

We hiked along the sometimes-muddy shore to the Bartlett We hiked along the sometimes-muddy shore to the Bartlett Cove park headquarters, which was open for the season but Cove park headquarters, which was open for the season but closed for the day. I called Vancouver on the pay phone and left a closed for the day. I called Vancouver on the pay phone and left a message that we were doing fine despite a few crevasse incidents. message that we were doing fine despite a few crevasse incidents. Ivan returned to our camp after filling up some water bottles Ivan returned to our camp after filling up some water bottles while I wandered to the dock where I met a beautiful young while I wandered to the dock where I met a beautiful young woman writing a letter on the planks. A food tasting contest was woman writing a letter on the planks. A food tasting contest was underway in a nearby lodge where she worked. She said that I underway in a nearby lodge where she worked. She said that I could probably sneak in for some tasty snacks but I declined, wor- could probably sneak in for some tasty snacks but I declined, worrying that my primitive appearance and body odour would scare rying that my primitive appearance and body odour would scare away the guests. away the guests.

On my way back to camp, a shortcut across a mudflat On my way back to camp, a shortcut across a mudflat turned into a knee-deep mud slog. Ivan had apparently used the turned into a knee-deep mud slog. Ivan had apparently used the same return route and had fallen face-first into the goo. same return route and had fallen face-first into the goo.

May 15 May 15

We paddled hard against an incoming tide through the nar- We paddled hard against an incoming tide through the narrow channel to reach Bartlett Cove. The park headquarters was row channel to reach Bartlett Cove. The park headquarters was now open and we dutifully submitted our delayed registration. now open and we dutifully submitted our delayed registration. Unknown to us, two other teams had been climbing Fairweather. Unknown to us, two other teams had been climbing Fairweather. One team was successful but members of the second group were One team was successful but members of the second group were not so fortunate; at some point, they were forced to crawl along not so fortunate; at some point, they were forced to crawl along the ground, using their ice axes to keep themselves from being the ground, using their ice axes to keep themselves from being blown away. blown away.

The good weather was ending and we decided to follow the The good weather was ending and we decided to follow the shoreline for 20 km to the village of Gustavus rather than directly shoreline for 20 km to the village of Gustavus rather than directly attempt to cross Icy Strait. Like on our outgoing journey, the tidal attempt to cross Icy Strait. Like on our outgoing journey, the tidal rips near Point Gustavus caused high waves. By now, we felt less rips near Point Gustavus caused high waves. By now, we felt less threatened by the seas but were still terrified of flipping our kay- threatened by the seas but were still terrified of flipping our kayaks. East of Point Gustavus, a broad, shallow mud flat stretches aks. East of Point Gustavus, a broad, shallow mud flat stretches well past the village. well past the village.

We pitched our tent on a windy beach near the Gustavus We pitched our tent on a windy beach near the Gustavus

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 164 164 dock and I walked into town to replenish our dwindling food sup- dock and I walked into town to replenish our dwindling food supply. The only store in town was closed and I caught a ride back to ply. The only store in town was closed and I caught a ride back to the beach with a local. the beach with a local.

May 16 May 16

I once again wandered over to the store to be confronted I once again wandered over to the store to be confronted by outrageous prices but a friendly owner. The weather forecast by outrageous prices but a friendly owner. The weather forecast called for moderate conditions that would worsen over the next called for moderate conditions that would worsen over the next few days. few days.

Pointing the kayaks toward Point Adolphus we primed Pointing the kayaks toward Point Adolphus we primed ourselves for one last push. Our only escape possibility if we ourselves for one last push. Our only escape possibility if we found ourselves in trouble would be Pleasant Island. The weather found ourselves in trouble would be Pleasant Island. The weather held and we soon left the island behind. After crossing, we didn’t held and we soon left the island behind. After crossing, we didn’t even bother landing at Point Adolphus despite the sight of spray- even bother landing at Point Adolphus despite the sight of spray- ing humpback whales in the vicinity. Like horses heading back to ing humpback whales in the vicinity. Like horses heading back to the barn, nothing would slow us down. the barn, nothing would slow us down.

Continuing for several unrelenting hours along the shore of Continuing for several unrelenting hours along the shore of Chichagof Island and across Port Frederick Inlet brought us near Chichagof Island and across Port Frederick Inlet brought us near the abandoned fish cannery just north of Hoonah. Several young the abandoned fish cannery just north of Hoonah. Several young native women, who were lounging around the beach by the old native women, who were lounging around the beach by the old building, shouted encouragements as we paddled by. Ivan looked building, shouted encouragements as we paddled by. Ivan looked happier than I’d ever seen him. happier than I’d ever seen him.

Postscript Postscript

We found out that the ferry had just left and we would We found out that the ferry had just left and we would have to wait four days for the next one to arrive. The ferry man- have to wait four days for the next one to arrive. The ferry man- ager said we could camp on a grassy spot beside the car ramp as ager said we could camp on a grassy spot beside the car ramp as long as we didn’t destroy her roses. The main recreation activity long as we didn’t destroy her roses. The main recreation activity of the local population consisted of driving their pickup trucks of the local population consisted of driving their pickup trucks back and forth along a 3 km stretch of pavement that ended at the back and forth along a 3 km stretch of pavement that ended at the ferry terminal. Before long, looking at our campsite turned into ferry terminal. Before long, looking at our campsite turned into prime entertainment. Once, someone saw our stove flash and prime entertainment. Once, someone saw our stove flash and called the cops because they though we were trying to burn down called the cops because they though we were trying to burn down the ticket office. the ticket office.

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Hoonah, which means “village by the cliff”, was created in Hoonah, which means “village by the cliff”, was created in part by Huna T’lingits who were forced out of Glacier Bay be- part by Huna T’lingits who were forced out of Glacier Bay because of advancing ice. In 1944, a fire destroyed much of the vil- cause of advancing ice. In 1944, a fire destroyed much of the village and many priceless T’lingit cultural objects. Several historic lage and many priceless T’lingit cultural objects. Several historic graveyards with Native totem poles mixed together with Russian graveyards with Native totem poles mixed together with Russian Orthodox and Christian crosses are located near the village. Orthodox and Christian crosses are located near the village.

Shortly after returning home, I received the tragic news of Shortly after returning home, I received the tragic news of the deaths of two fellow adventures: Jim Haberl in the St. Elias the deaths of two fellow adventures: Jim Haberl in the St. Elias Range and David Persson on Mount Rainier. I have no doubt that Range and David Persson on Mount Rainier. I have no doubt that both of them considered a life without adventure not worth liv- both of them considered a life without adventure not worth living. ing.

Participants: Participants: Ivan Bandic Fred Touche Ivan Bandic Fred Touche

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 166 166 HIKING HIKING

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Joshua Tree Joshua Tree Photo: Elise Breyton Photo: Elise Breyton

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Winter Long Hike 2000 Winter Long Hike 2000 Sally Kingsland Sally Kingsland

an Australian new to Canada, Vancouver and the cold...... an Australian new to Canada, Vancouver and the cold......

Sunny blue skies and stunning scenes of snow covered Sunny blue skies and stunning scenes of snow covered slopes of fir trees greeted me on my first trip out of Vancouver slopes of fir trees greeted me on my first trip out of Vancouver on the way to Manning Park. I thought that Roland was kidding on the way to Manning Park. I thought that Roland was kidding when he said you throw your gear over an embankment on the when he said you throw your gear over an embankment on the side of the road and crawl to your campsite when on a Winter side of the road and crawl to your campsite when on a Winter Long Hike - he wasn't. The trip to the clearing, which later took Long Hike - he wasn't. The trip to the clearing, which later took less than five minutes on a compacted snow path, took a good 20 less than five minutes on a compacted snow path, took a good 20 minutes and I discovered that crawling on all fours is actually an minutes and I discovered that crawling on all fours is actually an excellent method for traveling Through deep powdery snow - excellent method for traveling Through deep powdery snow - standing up was simply not practical. standing up was simply not practical.

During the next four or five hours the beautiful pristine During the next four or five hours the beautiful pristine clearing we came upon was transformed into a snow cave village clearing we came upon was transformed into a snow cave village to house almost twenty people. A further ten or so camped to house almost twenty people. A further ten or so camped nearby in tents and more snow caves. Having helped create the nearby in tents and more snow caves. Having helped create the hole in the snow which was our snow cave I happily helped some hole in the snow which was our snow cave I happily helped some other adventurers build an igloo as a social way of not freezing. other adventurers build an igloo as a social way of not freezing. The igloo looked very cool when lit by a flashlight even if it was a The igloo looked very cool when lit by a flashlight even if it was a funny shape. funny shape.

The weekend was intended as an introduction to snow The weekend was intended as an introduction to snow camping and the thing which impressed me above all else was the camping and the thing which impressed me above all else was the fire some clever people (thanks Jayson!) made on the snow. It fire some clever people (thanks Jayson!) made on the snow. It provided not only heat and something to gather around but also provided not only heat and something to gather around but also an excuse not to go to bed in the snow cave. Eventually though it an excuse not to go to bed in the snow cave. Eventually though it had to be done and after a few false starts my house-mate for the had to be done and after a few false starts my house-mate for the night and I managed to convince ourselves that it was in fact in night and I managed to convince ourselves that it was in fact in our best interest to get in. Considering that once inside I could our best interest to get in. Considering that once inside I could not see my toes without getting ice on my toque or bend my not see my toes without getting ice on my toque or bend my knees or elbows in a vertical direction it is hardly surprising we knees or elbows in a vertical direction it is hardly surprising we felt slightly constricted and nervous. Having shoveled a fair pro- felt slightly constricted and nervous. Having shoveled a fair pro- portion of the snow above me I knew how much the stuff portion of the snow above me I knew how much the stuff

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 169 169 weighed! The snow had continue to settle (compress) as we built weighed! The snow had continue to settle (compress) as we built it up - a very unsettling thing to watch, especially from the inside. it up - a very unsettling thing to watch, especially from the inside. We tried to ignore the crack in the roof and the little voice in our We tried to ignore the crack in the roof and the little voice in our heads which was saying "get out, get out, get out" and eventually heads which was saying "get out, get out, get out" and eventually the desire to be warm and to sleep won over and I got in and lay the desire to be warm and to sleep won over and I got in and lay there with a shovel by my side. there with a shovel by my side.

Whoomph! Whoomph!

A huge clump of snow fell from where it had collected on A huge clump of snow fell from where it had collected on the top of a tree on to the place where several people had been the top of a tree on to the place where several people had been sitting but a few moments before. It was morning and we had sur- sitting but a few moments before. It was morning and we had survived the night in our snow cave. Although it was snowing lightly vived the night in our snow cave. Although it was snowing lightly outside we were glad to leave our cosy accommodation as the outside we were glad to leave our cosy accommodation as the crack we had suspiciously eyed the night before was about three crack we had suspiciously eyed the night before was about three times wider and the roof noticeably closer to our noses. With times wider and the roof noticeably closer to our noses. With moves which would draw envy from the greatest escape artist I moves which would draw envy from the greatest escape artist I changed back into my clothes which lay underneath me and changed back into my clothes which lay underneath me and inched my way out of the now even narrower entrance. inched my way out of the now even narrower entrance.

A ski/snow shoe over some beautiful nearby trails saw my A ski/snow shoe over some beautiful nearby trails saw my carload right for the drive home leaving me dehydrated, exhausted carload right for the drive home leaving me dehydrated, exhausted and well introduced to snow camping Canadian style. and well introduced to snow camping Canadian style.

Snowcaving at Winter Longhike Snowcaving at Winter Longhike Photo Sally Kingsland Photo Sally Kingsland

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Black Tusk - Aug. 16-17, 1999 Black Tusk - Aug. 16-17, 1999 Rupi Cheema Rupi Cheema

I wasn't sure if this trip was going to be a go because of the I wasn't sure if this trip was going to be a go because of the usual Vancouver weather (clouds and rain) on Monday. How- usual Vancouver weather (clouds and rain) on Monday. How- ever, after much deliberation and delay, we decided to just go for ever, after much deliberation and delay, we decided to just go for it… it…

Monday, August 16th, Monday, August 16th, 3:15 pm: What a surprising trip...our first surprise was seeing a 3:15 pm: What a surprising trip...our first surprise was seeing a cute, baby bear jump out of the bushes and run across the road in cute, baby bear jump out of the bushes and run across the road in the Rubble Creek parking lot... the Rubble Creek parking lot... 5:45 pm: The second surprise was at the camping site in Taylor 5:45 pm: The second surprise was at the camping site in Taylor Meadows where we were immediately swarmed by families of Meadows where we were immediately swarmed by families of mosquitoes – leaving us with bites the size of brazil nuts and forc- mosquitoes – leaving us with bites the size of brazil nuts and forcing us to run, really, really fast to the sheltered cooking area for ing us to run, really, really fast to the sheltered cooking area for some relief!! some relief!!

Tuesday, August 17th, Tuesday, August 17th, 7 am: We awoke to a beautiful, sunny, clear blue sky and quickly 7 am: We awoke to a beautiful, sunny, clear blue sky and quickly prepared our breakfast...which brings me to the third surprise of prepared our breakfast...which brings me to the third surprise of the trip – the discovery of rice in my morning oatmeal. Dave the trip – the discovery of rice in my morning oatmeal. Dave Way, what were you thinking? Way, what were you thinking? 9:15 am: We start our hike and slosh through mud, snow, and 9:15 am: We start our hike and slosh through mud, snow, and over rock, reaching the summit of Black Tusk at noon. The view over rock, reaching the summit of Black Tusk at noon. The view of the lake was absolutely magnificent and breathtaking...as always of the lake was absolutely magnificent and breathtaking...as always the magical aura of the lake, the view of Mt. Garibaldi, and the the magical aura of the lake, the view of Mt. Garibaldi, and the surrounding snow topped mountains took our breaths surrounding snow topped mountains took our breaths away...which brings me to the fourth surprise when Jordi from away...which brings me to the fourth surprise when Jordi from SFU, who was feeling really care free, started to peel off his SFU, who was feeling really care free, started to peel off his clothes at the top of the Tusk...just kidding Jordi! The time flew clothes at the top of the Tusk...just kidding Jordi! The time flew by so quickly, because before we knew it we were back at the by so quickly, because before we knew it we were back at the parking lot at 6 pm. It was a great trip--we survived yet another parking lot at 6 pm. It was a great trip--we survived yet another adventure, and we were fortunate that the weather decided to adventure, and we were fortunate that the weather decided to work with us today! work with us today!

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Spruce Lake - Aug. 22-25, 1999 Spruce Lake - Aug. 22-25, 1999 Jason Brown Jason Brown

a combined SFU-ORC and VOC trip a combined SFU-ORC and VOC trip

Starting out on Sunday at 3:00pm; John, Anna, Rakesh, Starting out on Sunday at 3:00pm; John, Anna, Rakesh, Sean, Julie, Wes, Josh, Karl, Rupi, myself, and a bulk package of Sean, Julie, Wes, Josh, Karl, Rupi, myself, and a bulk package of 100 rolls of toilet paper had our first challenge of the day while 100 rolls of toilet paper had our first challenge of the day while trying to fit ourselves and packs in a VW Cabriolet, a Toyota Ter- trying to fit ourselves and packs in a VW Cabriolet, a Toyota Ter- cel, and my well-aged vehicle. (Believe it or not, it is possible - al- cel, and my well-aged vehicle. (Believe it or not, it is possible - although the toilet paper complained most of the trip about being though the toilet paper complained most of the trip about being squished). After this minor organizational obstacle, we headed out squished). After this minor organizational obstacle, we headed out of Vancouver to the Chilcotins and the Spruce Lake area. of Vancouver to the Chilcotins and the Spruce Lake area.

While stopping at the gas station in Pemberton, we called While stopping at the gas station in Pemberton, we called up to the Claimjumper (aka Clamjumper) Bar and Grill in up to the Claimjumper (aka Clamjumper) Bar and Grill in Bralorne and got them to keep the grill warm for us until we got Bralorne and got them to keep the grill warm for us until we got there. After a leisurely dinner, we spent the night at the Gun there. After a leisurely dinner, we spent the night at the Gun Creek Hydro Site (probably passing Mark and Kobus on their way Creek Hydro Site (probably passing Mark and Kobus on their way out). out).

The next morning we started up Gun Creek from the Jewel The next morning we started up Gun Creek from the Jewel Creek trailhead, in hotly pursued by 36 horses and 24 city cow- Creek trailhead, in hotly pursued by 36 horses and 24 city cowboys. The inexperienced cowboys were none too pleased with us, boys. The inexperienced cowboys were none too pleased with us, as the sight of 10 backpackers seemed to spook the horses. Sev- as the sight of 10 backpackers seemed to spook the horses. Sev- eral times we were amused by the sight of horses wanting to go eral times we were amused by the sight of horses wanting to go galloping through dense forest - inexperienced rider in tow - while galloping through dense forest - inexperienced rider in tow - while we were sitting peacefully by the trail having lunch. we were sitting peacefully by the trail having lunch.

The scenery up to Spruce Lake was especially nice - grass- The scenery up to Spruce Lake was especially nice - grasslands, meadows, wild flowers, and aspens - even if we did end up lands, meadows, wild flowers, and aspens - even if we did end up on the wrong trail. Topping a rise at one point, our group (with on the wrong trail. Topping a rise at one point, our group (with me in the lead, unfortunately) managed to startle a black bear sow me in the lead, unfortunately) managed to startle a black bear sow and her two cubs - 50 feet away. After rearing up to get a good and her two cubs - 50 feet away. After rearing up to get a good whiff of us, she decided that she didn't really want to face 10 scary whiff of us, she decided that she didn't really want to face 10 scary -smelling hikers and charged off into the underbrush, leaving her -smelling hikers and charged off into the underbrush, leaving her cubs to escape themselves. However, these little critters decided cubs to escape themselves. However, these little critters decided

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 172 172 we were quite interesting, and no amount of yelling (10 people we were quite interesting, and no amount of yelling (10 people can yell really loud) would deter them, but fortunately Rupi's can yell really loud) would deter them, but fortunately Rupi's whistle did the trick. After this, the newly formed Spruce Lake whistle did the trick. After this, the newly formed Spruce Lake Marching Whistle Band, featuring solos by Rupi and Jason at the Marching Whistle Band, featuring solos by Rupi and Jason at the bottom of every major hill, continued on to the lake without any bottom of every major hill, continued on to the lake without any more bear sightings. more bear sightings.

Day 2 on the trip consisted of everyone on the trip going Day 2 on the trip consisted of everyone on the trip going completely insane and deciding to climb Mt. Sheba (aka Mt. She- completely insane and deciding to climb Mt. Sheba (aka Mt. She- Rah!). There is actually a trail for this purpose, going from the Rah!). There is actually a trail for this purpose, going from the lake to Mt. Sheba, but we hadn't counted on the 70-80 kph gusts lake to Mt. Sheba, but we hadn't counted on the 70-80 kph gusts of wind near the top, or the extremely loose, steep, gravelly of wind near the top, or the extremely loose, steep, gravelly slopes. However, most of our group made the summit and no- slopes. However, most of our group made the summit and nobody was blown off the top - although Josh looked ready to jump body was blown off the top - although Josh looked ready to jump at one point. at one point.

Day 3 saw our group split into two groups - those who still Day 3 saw our group split into two groups - those who still had summit fever, and those who had contracted a case of lake had summit fever, and those who had contracted a case of lake fever (or some other injury which would prevent them reaching fever (or some other injury which would prevent them reaching the summit.) One group headed toward Castle Peak, spurred on the summit.) One group headed toward Castle Peak, spurred on by its cool look. The other group headed up to Hummingbird by its cool look. The other group headed up to Hummingbird Lake. Unfortunately for the Peakers, the trail ended on the other Lake. Unfortunately for the Peakers, the trail ended on the other side of Tyaughton Creek and in their enthusiasm, they had re- side of Tyaughton Creek and in their enthusiasm, they had remembered the maps but forgot the compass - and for once on an membered the maps but forgot the compass - and for once on an SFU ORC trip, sanity prevailed, as they turned around after hunt- SFU ORC trip, sanity prevailed, as they turned around after hunt- ing extensively for a trail (or a compass). ing extensively for a trail (or a compass).

The last day of our trip we made it down the trail in record The last day of our trip we made it down the trail in record time, some of the group going on ahead. Frequent bear tracks at time, some of the group going on ahead. Frequent bear tracks at one point had the vanguard a bit worried about our advance skir- one point had the vanguard a bit worried about our advance skir- mish units, but two hikers coming up the other way assured us mish units, but two hikers coming up the other way assured us that our missing people had not been eaten by bears. that our missing people had not been eaten by bears.

Reaching the trailhead, the ten of us and the rolls of toilet Reaching the trailhead, the ten of us and the rolls of toilet paper piled into the three vehicles and set off down the Hurley paper piled into the three vehicles and set off down the Hurley Road for the paved roads of Pemberton - the finish line for the Road for the paved roads of Pemberton - the finish line for the Hurley 500. I, of course finished first (what does it mean when Hurley 500. I, of course finished first (what does it mean when your speedometer needle is stuck all the way to the right?), Rupi your speedometer needle is stuck all the way to the right?), Rupi

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 173 173 came in a respectable second, with Josh in third (although I swear came in a respectable second, with Josh in third (although I swear he and everyone else in the car slept the entire way down - the he and everyone else in the car slept the entire way down - the only one I've ever met who could drive the Hurley while asleep). only one I've ever met who could drive the Hurley while asleep).

It was an excellent trip, thanks to everyone from SFU ORC It was an excellent trip, thanks to everyone from SFU ORC and the VOC who participated, and I have to say that it was the and the VOC who participated, and I have to say that it was the best thing since, well...Calamine lotion! best thing since, well...Calamine lotion!

Participants: Participants: Josh Ho Wes Narciso Josh Ho Wes Narciso Karl Manzer Rakesh Marwaha Karl Manzer Rakesh Marwaha John Drewoth Rupi Cheema John Drewoth Rupi Cheema Anna Janecka Julie Stevens Anna Janecka Julie Stevens Sean Nicolson Jason Brown. Sean Nicolson Jason Brown.

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Attention all, this is a Public Service Announcement: Attention all, this is a Public Service Announcement:

MARK GRIST HAS GONE SOFT MARK GRIST HAS GONE SOFT

Thanksgiving Weekend, 1999 Thanksgiving Weekend, 1999

Over the past weekend the VOC suffered a terrible loss. Over the past weekend the VOC suffered a terrible loss. Mark Grist (Moose) acquired a fatal case of "soft coreness". His Mark Grist (Moose) acquired a fatal case of "soft coreness". His symptoms included: symptoms included:

-insisting the whole group fuel up on chocolate before even step- -insisting the whole group fuel up on chocolate before even stepping into the car. ping into the car.

-the need of a two hour nap in the cabin after an approach of less -the need of a two hour nap in the cabin after an approach of less than an hour. than an hour.

-getting "the snacks" after a five course gourmet meal. -getting "the snacks" after a five course gourmet meal.

-the desire to spend many hours sitting around a crackling fire be- -the desire to spend many hours sitting around a crackling fire before going to sleep. fore going to sleep.

-urges to garnish everything (including fried sausage) with choco- -urges to garnish everything (including fried sausage) with chocolate late

-plotting a 10 km return hike for the group. But after 20 minutes -plotting a 10 km return hike for the group. But after 20 minutes of fresh air, persuading everyone to make a short loop around the of fresh air, persuading everyone to make a short loop around the basin in order to go back to the cabin to prepare more food. basin in order to go back to the cabin to prepare more food.

- after eating a dinner that included crepe suzette flambe and fresh - after eating a dinner that included crepe suzette flambe and fresh fruits soaked in brandy, wrapped in crepes, and topped with fruits soaked in brandy, wrapped in crepes, and topped with melted German chocolate, he exclaimed "is that it?" (with choco- melted German chocolate, he exclaimed "is that it?" (with chocolate still dripping from his chin) late still dripping from his chin)

-insisting he was suffering from nausea, but mysteriously able to -insisting he was suffering from nausea, but mysteriously able to gobble down flaming apple brandy crepes at 8 am. gobble down flaming apple brandy crepes at 8 am.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 175 175 It is general opinion that he needs a weekend of steep deep It is general opinion that he needs a weekend of steep deep turns to cure him of his ailments. turns to cure him of his ailments.

Witness to these atrocities were Andre Zimmermann, Crystal Witness to these atrocities were Andre Zimmermann, Crystal Huscroft, and Kate Zidek Huscroft, and Kate Zidek

And now : And now :

MARK'S VERSION OF THE STORY MARK'S VERSION OF THE STORY

Thanksgiving Weekend, 1999 Thanksgiving Weekend, 1999

Noticing at the last minute that the weather was shaping up Noticing at the last minute that the weather was shaping up to be good for the long weekend, I planned to undertake a mod- to be good for the long weekend, I planned to undertake a modest traverse: the length of the Cayoosh range. Going fast and light, est traverse: the length of the Cayoosh range. Going fast and light, I took only my bivvy sac, and a half dozen powerbars. Water and I took only my bivvy sac, and a half dozen powerbars. Water and other foodstuffs would no doubt be found along the way. I man- other foodstuffs would no doubt be found along the way. I managed to make swift progress, spending a rather chilly night out on aged to make swift progress, spending a rather chilly night out on Saturday. Sunday morning I happened upon an A-frame hut Saturday. Sunday morning I happened upon an A-frame hut whereupon I decided to bid a cheery "Hello" to its occupants. whereupon I decided to bid a cheery "Hello" to its occupants.

Upon opening the door, my eyes were assaulted by the Upon opening the door, my eyes were assaulted by the sight of what can only be described as the hideously repulsive face sight of what can only be described as the hideously repulsive face of sheer gluttony. Veritable mountain ranges of food were visable, of sheer gluttony. Veritable mountain ranges of food were visable, as was almost every kind of cheese known in the western world. I as was almost every kind of cheese known in the western world. I was on a tight schedule, however, and had no time for the ram- was on a tight schedule, however, and had no time for the ram- pant hedonism displayed by the trio (Andre, Crystal and Kate pant hedonism displayed by the trio (Andre, Crystal and Kate were their names) as they mumbled unintelligibly between cram- were their names) as they mumbled unintelligibly between cram- ming mouthfuls of crepe-filled whatevers smothered in a dark ming mouthfuls of crepe-filled whatevers smothered in a dark choklit-like substance. Ugh! choklit-like substance. Ugh!

I was somewhat dehydrated from the cold night, and with I was somewhat dehydrated from the cold night, and with so much snow in the alpine, water was rather scarce. As such, I so much snow in the alpine, water was rather scarce. As such, I timidly asked if I might be able to drink a half cup of their tepid timidly asked if I might be able to drink a half cup of their tepid dishwater from the slop bucket, in order to be sociable, and to dishwater from the slop bucket, in order to be sociable, and to "wet my whistle," so to speak. "wet my whistle," so to speak.

Upon drinking, the trio were stunned and remarked that I Upon drinking, the trio were stunned and remarked that I

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 176 176 had "gone soft" in accepting outside help in my journey. Is this had "gone soft" in accepting outside help in my journey. Is this true? Perhaps I have gone soft in accepting a half cup of tepid true? Perhaps I have gone soft in accepting a half cup of tepid dishwater from a slimy slop bucket, but I somehow don't think dishwater from a slimy slop bucket, but I somehow don't think so. Anyway, shortly thereafter I moseyed on my merry way. It was so. Anyway, shortly thereafter I moseyed on my merry way. It was clearly the case that my presence was only slowing down their me- clearly the case that my presence was only slowing down their me- thodical demolition of the stockpile, and that the old French dic- thodical demolition of the stockpile, and that the old French dic- tum was ever true: tum was ever true:

qui accuse, s'accuse qui accuse, s'accuse

Heather and Jayson and a very big hole Heather and Jayson and a very big hole Photo Sally Kingsland Photo Sally Kingsland

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Wedgemount Lake - Oct. 18, 1999 Wedgemount Lake - Oct. 18, 1999 Rupi Cheema Rupi Cheema

We started off early--Claudio picked me up at 6:30 am and We started off early--Claudio picked me up at 6:30 am and off we drove out towards Whistler in his newly purchased Honda. off we drove out towards Whistler in his newly purchased Honda. On the way to our destination, we stopped at a breakfast place in On the way to our destination, we stopped at a breakfast place in West Van and chowed down on sweet breakfast food and coffee. West Van and chowed down on sweet breakfast food and coffee. We arrived at the trail head at about 10 am and parked in the We arrived at the trail head at about 10 am and parked in the empty parking lot. The day was clear and sunny, but it was chilly. empty parking lot. The day was clear and sunny, but it was chilly.

We started the hike prepared for a very challenging and We started the hike prepared for a very challenging and "very steep" ascent--and steep it was. However, the beginning "very steep" ascent--and steep it was. However, the beginning part of the trail was a nice, easy stretch. We trod along happily, part of the trail was a nice, easy stretch. We trod along happily, passing many beautiful trees, with leaves the colours of bright yel- passing many beautiful trees, with leaves the colours of bright yel- low, orange, and red, until finally we arrived to the steep section low, orange, and red, until finally we arrived to the steep section of the hike--the ever lasting stair-master. We continued up the of the hike--the ever lasting stair-master. We continued up the master climb at a steady, leisurely pace--hardly ever taking our master climb at a steady, leisurely pace--hardly ever taking our eyes off the trail. As we slowly ascended to the top, the ground eyes off the trail. As we slowly ascended to the top, the ground became frosty and icy and very slippery--many times we slipped became frosty and icy and very slippery--many times we slipped and banged our knees on rocks (ouch!). The final section of the and banged our knees on rocks (ouch!). The final section of the trail was even more interesting--very rocky and icy. The stream trail was even more interesting--very rocky and icy. The stream was completely frozen over and so we had to get creative and hike was completely frozen over and so we had to get creative and hike around the very dangerous sections of the trail. But, once we got around the very dangerous sections of the trail. But, once we got to the top (in 2.5 hours), we were mesmerised by the amazing to the top (in 2.5 hours), we were mesmerised by the amazing views of the turquoise lake and surrounding pointy glaciers. The views of the turquoise lake and surrounding pointy glaciers. The sun beamed on our faces while we enjoyed our quiet Monday af- sun beamed on our faces while we enjoyed our quiet Monday afternoon sitting by the lake, munching our lunches and discussing ternoon sitting by the lake, munching our lunches and discussing the social, psychological, and spiritual aspects of life. I can't think the social, psychological, and spiritual aspects of life. I can't think of anything better to do on a sunny Monday afternoon. Can you? of anything better to do on a sunny Monday afternoon. Can you?

Lunch ended at about 2:30 pm and so we trod back down Lunch ended at about 2:30 pm and so we trod back down to the parking lot, passing by some hikers and a hungry chip- to the parking lot, passing by some hikers and a hungry chip- munk. By the time we got down to the car, our legs felt like jello- munk. By the time we got down to the car, our legs felt like jello- -shaky and tired from the long descending climb. We drove back -shaky and tired from the long descending climb. We drove back down the highway and stopped by at the usual spot--Starbucks – down the highway and stopped by at the usual spot--Starbucks – for a cafe americano and arrived back in the city at 7:00 pm. Boy, for a cafe americano and arrived back in the city at 7:00 pm. Boy, what a stressful day! I think I'll sleep in tomorrow! what a stressful day! I think I'll sleep in tomorrow!

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 178 178 SPECIAL FEATURES SPECIAL FEATURES

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 179 179

David Persson climbing out of the Monkey’s Mouth David Persson climbing out of the Monkey’s Mouth Smith Rocks, Oregon, 1998 Smith Rocks, Oregon, 1998

Photo: Marsha Hamilton Photo: Marsha Hamilton

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Remembering David Remembering David Jeremy Frimer Jeremy Frimer

On May 23, 1999, David Persson lost control while making a ski descent of On May 23, 1999, David Persson lost control while making a ski descent of Mt. Rainier’s Liberty Ridge and fell 800m to his death. Mt. Rainier’s Liberty Ridge and fell 800m to his death.

We were finally going home… Twelve days of waiting to We were finally going home… Twelve days of waiting to fly out from Mt. Logan were finally over! I relaxed and sunk into fly out from Mt. Logan were finally over! I relaxed and sunk into my seat feeling totally at ease beside Andy Williams in his old my seat feeling totally at ease beside Andy Williams in his old Helio Courier plane. “Hey Andy, everyone must have been really Helio Courier plane. “Hey Andy, everyone must have been really worried sick about us since we’re so overdue… Anyone call?” worried sick about us since we’re so overdue… Anyone call?”

“Yeah.” Andy started in his typically casual tone. “There “Yeah.” Andy started in his typically casual tone. “There were a few messages. But let’s get on the ground before we deal were a few messages. But let’s get on the ground before we deal with them.” with them.”

Something wasn’t right. I sensed uneasiness in his voice Something wasn’t right. I sensed uneasiness in his voice and l knew right away that something had gone terribly wrong. and l knew right away that something had gone terribly wrong.

On the ground, Andy came walking out from his radio On the ground, Andy came walking out from his radio shack. Staring down at his piece of paper, he avoided watching a shack. Staring down at his piece of paper, he avoided watching a part of each of us die as he informed us of the accident. part of each of us die as he informed us of the accident.

Sadness gripped my throat, making it burn till my eyes Sadness gripped my throat, making it burn till my eyes gave up their fight. Why! Why did you go out and get yourself gave up their fight. Why! Why did you go out and get yourself killed? Then anger encased me in a thick fog. You knew that crazy killed? Then anger encased me in a thick fog. You knew that crazy stuff was dangerous! You didn’t only hurt yourself in that acci- stuff was dangerous! You didn’t only hurt yourself in that accident, you bastard! Why did you always have to push it so much? dent, you bastard! Why did you always have to push it so much? Was it really worth it? Was it really worth it?

The answer to that seemingly rhetorical question is yes. The answer to that seemingly rhetorical question is yes. To David, it was worth it. It was worth putting it all on the line To David, it was worth it. It was worth putting it all on the line for that ultimate experience in the mountains. David was the for that ultimate experience in the mountains. David was the keenest, most dedicated person I’ve ever known. For him, it was- keenest, most dedicated person I’ve ever known. For him, it was- n’t a matter of finding time to get into the mountains; it was a n’t a matter of finding time to get into the mountains; it was a struggle to keep himself in his office. His endless supply of enthu- struggle to keep himself in his office. His endless supply of enthusiasm for being out of doors was ever-present when he always siasm for being out of doors was ever-present when he always

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 181 181 voted to continue on. If there was light in the sky, there was voted to continue on. If there was light in the sky, there was climbing left to be had… and then some. For him, nightfall was a climbing left to be had… and then some. For him, nightfall was a good time to finish off those last pitches or snatch one last run. good time to finish off those last pitches or snatch one last run.

Last February, Marty Maines, John Millar, David, and I Last February, Marty Maines, John Millar, David, and I went on a snowy day for a little skiing on Needle Peak. As went on a snowy day for a little skiing on Needle Peak. As David’s custom would have it, we were already in the parking lot David’s custom would have it, we were already in the parking lot before dawn. With extreme vigour, we charged up through the before dawn. With extreme vigour, we charged up through the forest, over the ridge, and into the bowl behind. After numerous forest, over the ridge, and into the bowl behind. After numerous fantastic deep powder runs, we decided to go for the “Todo fantastic deep powder runs, we decided to go for the “Todo Madre”, a 500m line that blasted way down into the valley. We Madre”, a 500m line that blasted way down into the valley. We skinned up and began shredding down. The heavenly glade, skinned up and began shredding down. The heavenly glade, shrouded in the deep and deluxe, made for the best run of the shrouded in the deep and deluxe, made for the best run of the season. Upon reaching the dense trees at the bottom, I stopped season. Upon reaching the dense trees at the bottom, I stopped and began putting my skins on just as Marty went blasting by and and began putting my skins on just as Marty went blasting by and into the thick forest. I quickly de-skinned and followed. Eventu- into the thick forest. I quickly de-skinned and followed. Eventu- ally, Marty’s tracks led to the man himself, who was on cloud nine ally, Marty’s tracks led to the man himself, who was on cloud nine in elation with the experience. I stopped as did John. in elation with the experience. I stopped as did John.

But, there came David. And there went David! Here we But, there came David. And there went David! Here we go again… It was about letting go. Who cares that we’ll have to go again… It was about letting go. Who cares that we’ll have to ski 800m up before descending to the car? Who cares that it’s al- ski 800m up before descending to the car? Who cares that it’s almost dark and we are out of food? It felt like a familiar setting: we most dark and we are out of food? It felt like a familiar setting: we were voluntarily getting ourselves into an epic! Surprisingly, it was were voluntarily getting ourselves into an epic! Surprisingly, it was fully worth it. The discomfort and possible danger associated with fully worth it. The discomfort and possible danger associated with what we were getting into was acknowledged and subsequently what we were getting into was acknowledged and subsequently put aside. David’s spirit for adventure was in all of us as we con- put aside. David’s spirit for adventure was in all of us as we continued further and further down into the valley. It was at times tinued further and further down into the valley. It was at times such as that one that I began to understand him for the driven in- such as that one that I began to understand him for the driven in- dividual that he was. I have nothing but respect for the shy, fear- dividual that he was. I have nothing but respect for the shy, fearless guy we called “Perseus”. less guy we called “Perseus”.

I remember on our St. Elias trip in August ’98… We I remember on our St. Elias trip in August ’98… We were a couple of weeks into the most serious and committed were a couple of weeks into the most serious and committed climb I’ve ever been involved in. The possibility of escape off our climb I’ve ever been involved in. The possibility of escape off our route was slim and rescue was even less likely. We truly were on route was slim and rescue was even less likely. We truly were on our own. Upon descending a section of the ridge where it was our own. Upon descending a section of the ridge where it was steep, broad, and heavily-loaded, the dreaded happened: A ridicu- steep, broad, and heavily-loaded, the dreaded happened: A ridicu-

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 182 182 lously steep overhanging cornice blocked us. We were forced to lously steep overhanging cornice blocked us. We were forced to leave the relative safety of the ridge top and descend onto the face leave the relative safety of the ridge top and descend onto the face below. Hundreds of meters of 40° to 60° snow and ice, all at the below. Hundreds of meters of 40° to 60° snow and ice, all at the top of a 1000m face, separated us from the place where we could top of a 1000m face, separated us from the place where we could regain the ridge. Before long, David had taken the best possible regain the ridge. Before long, David had taken the best possible line, and led across a 60° snow-loaded bowl. It was a terrifying line, and led across a 60° snow-loaded bowl. It was a terrifying moment. Next, we spent hours regaining the ridge up a diabolic, moment. Next, we spent hours regaining the ridge up a diabolic, 80m-long ice pitch. The position was dangerous, exposed, yet 80m-long ice pitch. The position was dangerous, exposed, yet necessary to get out of there. necessary to get out of there.

Upon regaining the ridge, I was more than spent. It was Upon regaining the ridge, I was more than spent. It was too much for me and I coveted the security of my bed at home. too much for me and I coveted the security of my bed at home. But David was just getting into it: “Now even I’m excited!” he But David was just getting into it: “Now even I’m excited!” he sparkled. I feel genuinely lucky to have seen David in his element. sparkled. I feel genuinely lucky to have seen David in his element.

But David wasn’t just the fearless Scandinavian that most But David wasn’t just the fearless Scandinavian that most people saw him as. There was a subtle yet strong compassionate people saw him as. There was a subtle yet strong compassionate side to him. After basically being told that I was expendable to an side to him. After basically being told that I was expendable to an expedition that I really wanted to be a part of, David said one of expedition that I really wanted to be a part of, David said one of the nicest things to me. Exactly what was said is not important. the nicest things to me. Exactly what was said is not important. But it couldn’t have been further from the truth—and we both But it couldn’t have been further from the truth—and we both knew it well. He said it to make me feel better and that’s what knew it well. He said it to make me feel better and that’s what mattered. David always listened to those around him and (after mattered. David always listened to those around him and (after trying to convince them to be brave), understood and accepted trying to convince them to be brave), understood and accepted how they felt and never questioned them again on the subject. how they felt and never questioned them again on the subject. That was what made climbing with David so great: I knew that if That was what made climbing with David so great: I knew that if I felt it was time to go home, David would understand. But until I felt it was time to go home, David would understand. But until that moment of pulling the pin, it was full-on intensity. that moment of pulling the pin, it was full-on intensity.

David’s spirit lives on in all his friends, family, and me. David’s spirit lives on in all his friends, family, and me. Whenever I find apathy setting in, I remember David and make Whenever I find apathy setting in, I remember David and make myself useful. Whenever I find myself thinking I can’t, I remem- myself useful. Whenever I find myself thinking I can’t, I remember David and I find myself thinking I will. Whenever I remember ber David and I find myself thinking I will. Whenever I remember David, I find myself smiling. David, I find myself smiling.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 183 183 David Persson ready for a ski descent of Ski Pilot David Persson ready for a ski descent of Ski Pilot Photo: Jeffrey Martin Photo: Jeffrey Martin

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Brew Hut Chronology Brew Hut Chronology Roland Burton Roland Burton

Here’s an attempt to summarise the history of the Brew Here’s an attempt to summarise the history of the Brew Hut. Much of this is not known firsthand but gathered from old Hut. Much of this is not known firsthand but gathered from old VOC Journals. “We” does not mean I was there. VOC Journals. “We” does not mean I was there.

Previous VOC huts included Sphinx, which we built in fall Previous VOC huts included Sphinx, which we built in fall of ‘69 at the edge of Garibaldi Lake. It’s still there, a beautiful lo- of ‘69 at the edge of Garibaldi Lake. It’s still there, a beautiful location. The Neve Hilton was built in the fall of ‘70 on the flank cation. The Neve Hilton was built in the fall of ‘70 on the flank of Mt. Garibaldi, but unfortunately it was totally and immediately of Mt. Garibaldi, but unfortunately it was totally and immediately destroyed by snow creep. After the humiliating experience with destroyed by snow creep. After the humiliating experience with the Neve Hilton, VOC was not in the mood to mess with huts for the Neve Hilton, VOC was not in the mood to mess with huts for a number of years. a number of years.

Now long ago, before most of us were even born, VOC Now long ago, before most of us were even born, VOC had built a huge structure at Whistler, now called the AMS Ski had built a huge structure at Whistler, now called the AMS Ski Cabin. Visit it some time and wonder. VOC and AMS soon fig- Cabin. Visit it some time and wonder. VOC and AMS soon figured out that the Club was too disorganised to operate a full-time ured out that the Club was too disorganised to operate a full-time ski chalet for downhillers, and a bitter dispute arose as to whether ski chalet for downhillers, and a bitter dispute arose as to whether it was an AMS asset or a VOC asset, as VOC is part of AMS. it was an AMS asset or a VOC asset, as VOC is part of AMS. This dispute was settled in Student Court with the cabin going to This dispute was settled in Student Court with the cabin going to AMS and VOC getting about $30,000 to spend on two huts. Sud- AMS and VOC getting about $30,000 to spend on two huts. Sud- denly VOC had to find places for these two huts. We don’t have denly VOC had to find places for these two huts. We don’t have a record of why Brew was chosen, maybe it was the name, or the a record of why Brew was chosen, maybe it was the name, or the good access for skiers and the bad access for snowmobiles, the good access for skiers and the bad access for snowmobiles, the high snowfall and excellent backcountry skiing. high snowfall and excellent backcountry skiing.

Anyway, VOC received an occupancy permit in ‘82, and Anyway, VOC received an occupancy permit in ‘82, and contracted a Richmond Company to prefab two identical huts. contracted a Richmond Company to prefab two identical huts. The first became Brew Hut and the second became Harrison Hut. The first became Brew Hut and the second became Harrison Hut.

Brew Hut was erected during two epic weekends, 10 and Brew Hut was erected during two epic weekends, 10 and 17 September 1982, apparently at the outlet of the small lake. 17 September 1982, apparently at the outlet of the small lake. The weather was foul, snowing, the helicopter stopped hauling The weather was foul, snowing, the helicopter stopped hauling with the materials only partially hauled in, the leader’s tent blew with the materials only partially hauled in, the leader’s tent blew into the nearby lake along with his sleeping bag and the two-way into the nearby lake along with his sleeping bag and the two-way

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 185 185 radio, and time was spent building survival shelters among the radio, and time was spent building survival shelters among the building materials. Still it did get built, and pretty well at that. building materials. Still it did get built, and pretty well at that.

When the hut was visited that winter (‘82-‘83), we found When the hut was visited that winter (‘82-‘83), we found the hut totally buried, and snow creep had almost demolished it. the hut totally buried, and snow creep had almost demolished it. Obviously this site was not going to work. Obviously this site was not going to work.

Brew hut Construction Round 1 Brew hut Construction Round 1 Photo VOC archives Photo VOC archives

Fall of ’83, we tried without success to get a Skycrane heli- Fall of ’83, we tried without success to get a Skycrane helicopter to move the hut. We cut off one section to make it lighter. copter to move the hut. We cut off one section to make it lighter. In the end the hut was collapsed to prevent it being destroyed In the end the hut was collapsed to prevent it being destroyed completely. completely.

Fall of ’84 a small helicopter was used to move the lumber Fall of ’84 a small helicopter was used to move the lumber to the hut’s present site. The hut was partially rebuilt, a little to the hut’s present site. The hut was partially rebuilt, a little shorter and with fewer structural support beams. The second shorter and with fewer structural support beams. The second time you use the building materials, they never fit right. Again a time you use the building materials, they never fit right. Again a snowstorm interfered with completion. snowstorm interfered with completion.

Fall of ’85 rebuilding of the hut was completed. Fall of ’85 rebuilding of the hut was completed.

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For about five years, either nobody could remember where For about five years, either nobody could remember where the Brew Hut was, or else they didn’t want to visit it. There were the Brew Hut was, or else they didn’t want to visit it. There were rumours that it got pretty well buried every winter, but snow rumours that it got pretty well buried every winter, but snow creep was not such a problem at this site. creep was not such a problem at this site.

Fall of ‘94, a big fix-up and $1100 lumber, another helicop- Fall of ‘94, a big fix-up and $1100 lumber, another helicopter. It seems the west end had been pushed in by snow creep. ter. It seems the west end had been pushed in by snow creep.

Feb ’96, a trip to use the hut arrives at the hut 8:30 PM af- Feb ’96, a trip to use the hut arrives at the hut 8:30 PM after thoughts of bivouac. Hut ok. ter thoughts of bivouac. Hut ok.

Fall of ’98, MEC donated money for a helicopter to fly out Fall of ’98, MEC donated money for a helicopter to fly out garbage and building debris. At the same time we flew in a re- garbage and building debris. At the same time we flew in a re- placement upstairs access window and some kerosene, naphtha, placement upstairs access window and some kerosene, naphtha, and candles. Installed the window Jan 1999. and candles. Installed the window Jan 1999.

Spring ’99, M Grist, K Zidek arrived at the hut around Spring ’99, M Grist, K Zidek arrived at the hut around midnight and found about 7 metres of snow. They dug for sev- midnight and found about 7 metres of snow. They dug for several hours but could not get down to the hut, chose to bivouac eral hours but could not get down to the hut, chose to bivouac instead. Exceptional snowfall this winter. instead. Exceptional snowfall this winter.

June ’99, received a report that the hut was crushed by the June ’99, received a report that the hut was crushed by the excessive snow of last year. A trip to the hut in July found exten- excessive snow of last year. A trip to the hut in July found extensive damage. The roof is stove in and all the structural beams are sive damage. The roof is stove in and all the structural beams are broken. Snow creep has not been damaging the hut, but it has broken. Snow creep has not been damaging the hut, but it has pushed it some five feet to the east, so it no longer sits on its pushed it some five feet to the east, so it no longer sits on its foundation skids. The floor is no longer level, or flat. It looks foundation skids. The floor is no longer level, or flat. It looks like the hut should be either removed or replaced. A new site 500 like the hut should be either removed or replaced. A new site 500 m away was chosen in case the hut is to be replaced; there seems m away was chosen in case the hut is to be replaced; there seems to be much less snow accumulation there. to be much less snow accumulation there.

Fall ’99, a party of 12 arrived to demolish the hut to salvage Fall ’99, a party of 12 arrived to demolish the hut to salvage boards, instead decided to try and strengthen it for another year. boards, instead decided to try and strengthen it for another year. Some cross-bracing was added, and a honeymoon suite was built Some cross-bracing was added, and a honeymoon suite was built upstairs, providing two more sleeping spaces. upstairs, providing two more sleeping spaces.

Jan ’00, a party of 16 at the hut (and what a party it was). 3 Jan ’00, a party of 16 at the hut (and what a party it was). 3

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 187 187 -4 m of snow at hut. Confirmed the new site is clear of snow. -4 m of snow at hut. Confirmed the new site is clear of snow.

At this time the hut has a fine sleazy ambience. It’s not At this time the hut has a fine sleazy ambience. It’s not structurally sound but the snow is holding it up, so it can be used. structurally sound but the snow is holding it up, so it can be used. It’s dry inside, and it gets warm when you cook. Too bad it gets It’s dry inside, and it gets warm when you cook. Too bad it gets buried in the Spring so it is not a reliable destination at this site. buried in the Spring so it is not a reliable destination at this site. Because the beams are broken, it will become unusable some time Because the beams are broken, it will become unusable some time in the next couple of years. in the next couple of years.

What have we learned from this? What have we learned from this? 1) Checking the site while snow is on the ground seems to 1) Checking the site while snow is on the ground seems to be a good idea. Strange nobody thought of that before. be a good idea. Strange nobody thought of that before.

2) Building in September does not guarantee good 2) Building in September does not guarantee good weather. Summer may be better. weather. Summer may be better.

3) When you rebuild something crushed by snow, the 3) When you rebuild something crushed by snow, the parts don’t fit very well. parts don’t fit very well.

What to do now? The area is good for backcountry snow What to do now? The area is good for backcountry snow adventures, and it is handy to Vancouver. Should we replace the adventures, and it is handy to Vancouver. Should we replace the hut using a new design and the new site, and some of the old ma- hut using a new design and the new site, and some of the old materials? Who wants to spend money on a new hut? Who wants to terials? Who wants to spend money on a new hut? Who wants to put in the effort? Can we get it right this time? put in the effort? Can we get it right this time?

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LOST ITEM LOST ITEM

On January 9, 2000, around 2 PM. On January 9, 2000, around 2 PM.

One necklace, mostly of little brown wood beads, centre- One necklace, mostly of little brown wood beads, centre- piece beads in front include some larger black ones, a few white piece beads in front include some larger black ones, a few white ones, a red shiny one, and a metallic washer that comes with ones, a red shiny one, and a metallic washer that comes with presta valve bike tubes. Clasp is chrome plated with some brass presta valve bike tubes. Clasp is chrome plated with some brass showing through, approximately 6mm long and screws together. showing through, approximately 6mm long and screws together. Cord is nylon. Cord is nylon.

Lost at Cypress mountain during Varsity Outdoor Club Lost at Cypress mountain during Varsity Outdoor Club Telemark Ski School, just in the trees off a run to the skiers right Telemark Ski School, just in the trees off a run to the skiers right near the top of the quad chair. Located perhaps 1cm to 60cm be- near the top of the quad chair. Located perhaps 1cm to 60cm beneath the top of the snow in meter-scale depression immediately neath the top of the snow in meter-scale depression immediately downhill from a jump. Beads could be scattered over a sizeable downhill from a jump. Beads could be scattered over a sizeable area, as nylon likely broken due to tip of left ski ramming right area, as nylon likely broken due to tip of left ski ramming right shoulder/neck (and necklace) area of loser. shoulder/neck (and necklace) area of loser.

Anyone with information as to the whereabouts of this Anyone with information as to the whereabouts of this item is asked to contact Kelly Franz. Arrangements can be made item is asked to contact Kelly Franz. Arrangements can be made to meet in the clubroom. A small reward is being offered. Possi- to meet in the clubroom. A small reward is being offered. Possi- bly edible. bly edible.

FOUND ITEM FOUND ITEM

Somebody left a chest harness for a person of the female Somebody left a chest harness for a person of the female type (read a bra) in Roland's car after glacier school. And he says type (read a bra) in Roland's car after glacier school. And he says it doesn't fit him. The owner should get in touch with him to it doesn't fit him. The owner should get in touch with him to claim it, or he will pin it to the Clubroom notice board. claim it, or he will pin it to the Clubroom notice board.

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GOLD PIN AWARD: Andre Zimmerman GOLD PIN AWARD: Andre Zimmerman Jeremy Frimer Jeremy Frimer

On March 17, 1999, a VOC referendum was held with the question: On March 17, 1999, a VOC referendum was held with the question: “Should Andre Zimmerman be awarded a VOC Gold Pin Award?” The “Should Andre Zimmerman be awarded a VOC Gold Pin Award?” The vote was a unanimous YES. As a result, on March 24, 1999, at the An- vote was a unanimous YES. As a result, on March 24, 1999, at the An- nual VOC Banquet, Jen Wild and Jeremy Frimer presented Andre with a nual VOC Banquet, Jen Wild and Jeremy Frimer presented Andre with a VOC Gold Pin Award. VOC Gold Pin Award.

1. What is a Gold Pin and who should get one? 1. What is a Gold Pin and who should get one?

A VOC Gold Pin is the highest form of recognition the A VOC Gold Pin is the highest form of recognition the club can make. There is also a VOC Silver Pin for extensive ser- club can make. There is also a VOC Silver Pin for extensive service to the club. But the Gold Pin is recognition for going way vice to the club. But the Gold Pin is recognition for going way beyond the call of duty. beyond the call of duty.

The VOC Constitution states (Bylaw 13) "In recognition The VOC Constitution states (Bylaw 13) "In recognition of outstanding club work by members, the following awards may of outstanding club work by members, the following awards may be given…1. Silver VOC Pin… 2. Gold VOC Pin. In very excep- be given…1. Silver VOC Pin… 2. Gold VOC Pin. In very exceptional circumstances, the committee may see fit to award a Gold tional circumstances, the committee may see fit to award a Gold VOC Pin." VOC Pin."

The Membership Handbook states "… awarded to a The Membership Handbook states "… awarded to a member who has made an exceptional contribution to the club." member who has made an exceptional contribution to the club." Darlene Anderson was substantially more verbose with "Gold pin Darlene Anderson was substantially more verbose with "Gold pin awards are given to those club members who not only have de- awards are given to those club members who not only have de- voted much of their time, over a number of years, to the VOC, voted much of their time, over a number of years, to the VOC, but have also done some form of outstanding work for the but have also done some form of outstanding work for the club." (1983 VOCJ (P.5)) club." (1983 VOCJ (P.5))

2. Why should Andre get a Gold Pin? 2. Why should Andre get a Gold Pin?

Andre was an exec for 2 years (FMCBC Rep in 97-98 and Andre was an exec for 2 years (FMCBC Rep in 97-98 and President in 98-99) and an active member for 4 years. He has al- President in 98-99) and an active member for 4 years. He has always been very involved in club activities on all fronts: outdoor, ways been very involved in club activities on all fronts: outdoor, social, and executive. His contributions as an exec are quite nota- social, and executive. His contributions as an exec are quite nota- ble. However, Andre's claim to fame came with the Brian Wad- ble. However, Andre's claim to fame came with the Brian Wad-

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 190 190 dington Memorial Hut. dington Memorial Hut.

In a nutshell, the Brian Waddington hut would have In a nutshell, the Brian Waddington hut would have never happened if it were not for Andre. Blair Hammond, Dave never happened if it were not for Andre. Blair Hammond, Dave Dexter, Brian Gaulley, and many others were crucial in the project Dexter, Brian Gaulley, and many others were crucial in the project as well but Andre's contribution excelled and was ultimately the as well but Andre's contribution excelled and was ultimately the driving force behind the hut's completion. driving force behind the hut's completion.

Two years ago (1997-1998), Andre worked overtime to Two years ago (1997-1998), Andre worked overtime to get the things in order to fly in over the summer. At one point, get the things in order to fly in over the summer. At one point, there was serious doubt about whether the hut should even hap- there was serious doubt about whether the hut should even happen. It was Andre that really backed the hut in its final hour and pen. It was Andre that really backed the hut in its final hour and kept the project on its rails. At every exec meeting, Andre would kept the project on its rails. At every exec meeting, Andre would have a full itinerary dealing with the bureaucracy that was in- have a full itinerary dealing with the bureaucracy that was involved with the hut such as permits, helicopters, etc. This gave volved with the hut such as permits, helicopters, etc. This gave the exec only a glimpse into the huge amount of work that was the exec only a glimpse into the huge amount of work that was involved. When the spring came, Andre was part of the crew that involved. When the spring came, Andre was part of the crew that spent several days at the hut sight, digging through meters of spent several days at the hut sight, digging through meters of snow to uncover the foundations. Following a fly-by the pilot de- snow to uncover the foundations. Following a fly-by the pilot decided that the flight would have to wait until summer. So, while cided that the flight would have to wait until summer. So, while working in the Interior, Andre spent countless hours on the working in the Interior, Andre spent countless hours on the phone preparing for the proposed day in late July. Finally D-day phone preparing for the proposed day in late July. Finally D-day arrived and Andre was there directing VOC traffic. Spending al- arrived and Andre was there directing VOC traffic. Spending almost two weeks at the hut site, the bulk of the work was accom- most two weeks at the hut site, the bulk of the work was accomplished. In late August, Andre was part of the finishing crew, plished. In late August, Andre was part of the finishing crew, spending another 9 days at the hut. In total, he spent about 30 spending another 9 days at the hut. In total, he spent about 30 days at the hut site over that summer and spring. This along with days at the hut site over that summer and spring. This along with the countless hours spent over the previous year made the project the countless hours spent over the previous year made the project happen. happen.

I had the pleasure of helping out on the final 9-day push I had the pleasure of helping out on the final 9-day push to get the hut finished in late August of 1998. It was only at that to get the hut finished in late August of 1998. It was only at that time that I gained a full appreciation for the tremendous amount time that I gained a full appreciation for the tremendous amount of time and effort required to put a hut together. I really got a of time and effort required to put a hut together. I really got a sense of how pivotal Andre was to the project and how improb- sense of how pivotal Andre was to the project and how improb- able the hut would have been without him. The VOC members able the hut would have been without him. The VOC members feel that Andre's contributions excelled to the same magnitude as feel that Andre's contributions excelled to the same magnitude as those of the previous Gold Pin recipients and should be recog- those of the previous Gold Pin recipients and should be recog-

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 191 191 nised and celebrated by awarding him a Gold Pin. nised and celebrated by awarding him a Gold Pin.

3. Why a Gold Pin and not Silver? 3. Why a Gold Pin and not Silver?

It's a judgement call. Only 4 (or 5; the records are not It's a judgement call. Only 4 (or 5; the records are not clear) people have received Gold pins: Roland Burton (planning clear) people have received Gold pins: Roland Burton (planning and building the Burton (Sphinx) Hut, 1970), Karl Ricker and and building the Burton (Sphinx) Hut, 1970), Karl Ricker and Byron Olson (planning, designing, and building the Whistler Byron Olson (planning, designing, and building the Whistler cabin, 1966) and Ron Leslie (building the Seymour cabin, 1950). cabin, 1966) and Ron Leslie (building the Seymour cabin, 1950). Clearly, it is only outstanding contributions that are worthy of the Clearly, it is only outstanding contributions that are worthy of the honour. Looking at what the four other recipients received their honour. Looking at what the four other recipients received their pins for makes me optimistic. They each made major contribu- pins for makes me optimistic. They each made major contributions to the creation of huts as well as being active members. An- tions to the creation of huts as well as being active members. An- dre's contribution was comparable to those of the other recipi- dre's contribution was comparable to those of the other recipients. ents.

Andre Zimmerman in his element Andre Zimmerman in his element Photo Fern Webb Photo Fern Webb

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Tripping Tripping Roland Burton Roland Burton

Looking over the past couple of years, I’ve either been ex- Looking over the past couple of years, I’ve either been extremely lucky or else I’m getting sneaky, because I’ve been on a tremely lucky or else I’m getting sneaky, because I’ve been on a lot of really good trips lately. Assiniboine reading week ’99, lot of really good trips lately. Assiniboine reading week ’99, Sphinx and Mt Garibaldi in the spring of ’99, Baker on skis, when Sphinx and Mt Garibaldi in the spring of ’99, Baker on skis, when we sat in the tents and told stories, Spearheads Traverse May 24th, we sat in the tents and told stories, Spearheads Traverse May 24th, Sphinx in the Summer, red wine at Brew (twice), just to mention Sphinx in the Summer, red wine at Brew (twice), just to mention some highlights. We’ve tried to decide what make a trip great and some highlights. We’ve tried to decide what make a trip great and here are a few factors we’ve isolated. here are a few factors we’ve isolated.

First of course is the weather. An outdoor club doesn’t get First of course is the weather. An outdoor club doesn’t get to ignore the weather very much. Skiing powder in the sun versus to ignore the weather very much. Skiing powder in the sun versus navigating in a wet white-out. Be nice to the weather gods, and navigating in a wet white-out. Be nice to the weather gods, and maybe they’ll be nice to you. maybe they’ll be nice to you.

Next is group dynamics. It seems that if the right people Next is group dynamics. It seems that if the right people are along, you can’t help but have a good time. Somehow you are along, you can’t help but have a good time. Somehow you don’t even need to know the people before the trip, as long as don’t even need to know the people before the trip, as long as they are keen, and you can achieve some agreement as to the pur- they are keen, and you can achieve some agreement as to the purpose of the trip. pose of the trip.

A third factor is style. People who do the entire West Coast A third factor is style. People who do the entire West Coast Trail in 18 hours are showing a certain style. People who spend Trail in 18 hours are showing a certain style. People who spend the whole summer hiking the whole Pacific Crest Trail, have a dif- the whole summer hiking the whole Pacific Crest Trail, have a different style. Then there’s those who get up to see the sunrise but ferent style. Then there’s those who get up to see the sunrise but make camp at 4 PM because that’s enough for one day. These are make camp at 4 PM because that’s enough for one day. These are all different styles. If you are going to have a happy trip, there all different styles. If you are going to have a happy trip, there should be some agreement on trip style. should be some agreement on trip style.

It’s interesting to look at why people climb mountains. It’s interesting to look at why people climb mountains. Historically, it seems the original documented mountaineers Historically, it seems the original documented mountaineers claimed that they were doing it for science. They hauled ther- claimed that they were doing it for science. They hauled ther- mometers up mountains and checked the boiling point at the top, mometers up mountains and checked the boiling point at the top, looked for large deposits of gold along the way, or even higher looked for large deposits of gold along the way, or even higher mountains, which could be seen from the top. mountains, which could be seen from the top.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 193 193

If those people were scientific mountaineers, the next If those people were scientific mountaineers, the next batch were heroic mountaineers. If they conquered all those in- batch were heroic mountaineers. If they conquered all those insurmountable obstacles and endured all those hardships and surmountable obstacles and endured all those hardships and maybe even if some of their friends got killed, then they must maybe even if some of their friends got killed, then they must really be heroic. People are dismayed to find that Heinrich Harrer really be heroic. People are dismayed to find that Heinrich Harrer was a colleague of Adolph Hitler. But what do you expect? There was a colleague of Adolph Hitler. But what do you expect? There was a war and lots of heroic things were being done. was a war and lots of heroic things were being done.

There seems to be two other kinds of mountaineers. One There seems to be two other kinds of mountaineers. One is the commercial mountaineer or professional guide. As moun- is the commercial mountaineer or professional guide. As mountaineering is their main source of income, we are not surprised taineering is their main source of income, we are not surprised that they sometimes get stuck with taking people up mountains at that they sometimes get stuck with taking people up mountains at the expense of their own, and their client’s lives. Like prostitutes, the expense of their own, and their client’s lives. Like prostitutes, they do it for money. But hey you gotta earn a living somehow. they do it for money. But hey you gotta earn a living somehow.

Finally there seems to be a small group who actually just do Finally there seems to be a small group who actually just do it for fun, plan it carefully to not be heroic, don’t take notes so it it for fun, plan it carefully to not be heroic, don’t take notes so it isn’t science, and pay their own way and don’t get paid by any- isn’t science, and pay their own way and don’t get paid by any- body else, so it isn’t commercial. These people are just plain body else, so it isn’t commercial. These people are just plain weird. weird.

Do you recognise yourself or any articles in this Journal, as Do you recognise yourself or any articles in this Journal, as fitting any of these descriptions? fitting any of these descriptions?

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Overview Of The Year Overview Of The Year from an international perspective from an international perspective Elise Breyton Elise Breyton

Sorry for the people who are looking for the story of an Sorry for the people who are looking for the story of an other epic adventure. I didn’t fall in a crevasse in Alaska, I was other epic adventure. I didn’t fall in a crevasse in Alaska, I was not caught in a avalanche on the way to Mt Logan, I didn’t even not caught in a avalanche on the way to Mt Logan, I didn’t even spend a night on a cliff , freezing to death in the desert of Red spend a night on a cliff , freezing to death in the desert of Red Rocks! Rocks!

I could have told you about my trips to Leavenworth, I could have told you about my trips to Leavenworth, Smith Rock, Red Rocks, Joshua Tree, Squamish, Duffey Lake, Smith Rock, Red Rocks, Joshua Tree, Squamish, Duffey Lake, Cerise Creek, Marriot Basin, Yoho Valley, Wapta Icefield... But I Cerise Creek, Marriot Basin, Yoho Valley, Wapta Icefield... But I thought it would be long and boring. So I would rather give you thought it would be long and boring. So I would rather give you my global impression of the year. my global impression of the year.

I didn’t expect so much from my year in Canada. As an ex- I didn’t expect so much from my year in Canada. As an exchange student from France, I have to say that being an active change student from France, I have to say that being an active member of the VOC did a lot to make it an incredibly rich experi- member of the VOC did a lot to make it an incredibly rich experience. ence.

For climbing, skiing and mountaineering, I learned a lot For climbing, skiing and mountaineering, I learned a lot from the experience of other members, especially during the Gla- from the experience of other members, especially during the Gla- cier School, the Avalanche School, the Summer Longhike and the cier School, the Avalanche School, the Summer Longhike and the Winter Longhike. Winter Longhike.

But I also learned a lot about the people. I realise now that But I also learned a lot about the people. I realise now that I met most of my close friends here in Canada thanks to the VOC I met most of my close friends here in Canada thanks to the VOC trips. I realise too, that the interest for outdoor activities, the pas- trips. I realise too, that the interest for outdoor activities, the pas- sion for mountains, the respect of nature and the solidarity among sion for mountains, the respect of nature and the solidarity among the people doesn’t know borders. You don’t need to have the the people doesn’t know borders. You don’t need to have the same nationality to feel the same when you look at the sunrise on same nationality to feel the same when you look at the sunrise on top of a mountain. It was just incredible for me , to come here, top of a mountain. It was just incredible for me , to come here, more than 10 000 km, far from home, and to share with people more than 10 000 km, far from home, and to share with people these unique moments that make us live life fully. these unique moments that make us live life fully.

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 195 195 So I would like to tell all the VOC members two things: So I would like to tell all the VOC members two things:

- The first is a big THANK YOU ! Thank you to all the - The first is a big THANK YOU ! Thank you to all the climbing partners , the ski partners, the trip leaders , the instruc- climbing partners , the ski partners, the trip leaders , the instruc- tors, the drivers and so on who made all these trips possible for tors, the drivers and so on who made all these trips possible for me. Thank you for giving your time organising the trips, sharing me. Thank you for giving your time organising the trips, sharing your experience. Thank you to all the people who took the risk of your experience. Thank you to all the people who took the risk of investing their time in a friendship, despite the fact that I was ‘ investing their time in a friendship, despite the fact that I was ‘ just’ an exchange student here for one year. just’ an exchange student here for one year.

This was one of the best years in my life. This was one of the best years in my life.

- The second is an ‘INVITATION AU VOYAGE’. Don’t - The second is an ‘INVITATION AU VOYAGE’. Don’t think that mountains, climbing routes, ski slopes etc. look the think that mountains, climbing routes, ski slopes etc. look the same anywhere in the world. There is so much beauty to see and same anywhere in the world. There is so much beauty to see and so many interesting people to meet So don’t think about the price so many interesting people to meet So don’t think about the price of the trips, the lack of time or any other excuse. Take your back- of the trips, the lack of time or any other excuse. Take your back- pack and let’s GO! pack and let’s GO!

If you don’t go now, you will never go. If you don’t go now, you will never go.

“ I am now able to see that there may be the risk of dying doing something “ I am now able to see that there may be the risk of dying doing something I’d love to do, but there is certain death in being afraid and not doing it.” I’d love to do, but there is certain death in being afraid and not doing it.” “ I hope that your dreams will no longer be your dreams but your reality.” “ I hope that your dreams will no longer be your dreams but your reality.” - Brock Tully, Coming Together, a 10 000 mile bicycle journey - Brock Tully, Coming Together, a 10 000 mile bicycle journey

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Some Thoughts on Heating Some Thoughts on Heating Roland Burton Roland Burton

Watching steam rise from a pot of boiling noodles. It Watching steam rise from a pot of boiling noodles. It forms a moist cloud in the hut, up where the socks are hung to forms a moist cloud in the hut, up where the socks are hung to dry. In the morning the boots are frozen to the floor. I put my dry. In the morning the boots are frozen to the floor. I put my socks in the top of my bag to dry them, but by morning they are socks in the top of my bag to dry them, but by morning they are in someone else’s bag. How do they do that? in someone else’s bag. How do they do that?

Outside the hut, the skins lie in the snow, abandoned by Outside the hut, the skins lie in the snow, abandoned by the party which arrived after dark. Inside the hut it is all down, the party which arrived after dark. Inside the hut it is all down, clammy down, steamy smelly fuzzy clothes. Sweaty, steamy, clammy down, steamy smelly fuzzy clothes. Sweaty, steamy, smelly people. Ice on the floor. Water running down the walls. smelly people. Ice on the floor. Water running down the walls.

Thought without action accomplishes nothing. Action Thought without action accomplishes nothing. Action without thought sometimes accomplishes strange undesirable without thought sometimes accomplishes strange undesirable things. Here is some thought. things. Here is some thought.

This is the evolution of a hut. First we start with nothing. This is the evolution of a hut. First we start with nothing. It rains/snows. We get wet from the stuff falling from the sky, It rains/snows. We get wet from the stuff falling from the sky, and from the stuff we are lying upon. A roof might be nice. Sit- and from the stuff we are lying upon. A roof might be nice. Sit- ting under a tree all night doesn’t work very well. Wet stuff falls ting under a tree all night doesn’t work very well. Wet stuff falls on you off the branches. on you off the branches.

We get a tent. Good. We can carry it wherever we want. We get a tent. Good. We can carry it wherever we want. We can put it anywhere, and it might survive. We learn not to put We can put it anywhere, and it might survive. We learn not to put it in avalanche slopes, or in wind funnels. Even wind-blown snow it in avalanche slopes, or in wind funnels. Even wind-blown snow can make a tent uninhabitable in a few hours. And a tent is a frag- can make a tent uninhabitable in a few hours. And a tent is a frag- ile thing. A few weeks of ultraviolet light will turn it into useless ile thing. A few weeks of ultraviolet light will turn it into useless fabric scraps. fabric scraps.

We build a shelter, or a hut. Altruistically, we can invite We build a shelter, or a hut. Altruistically, we can invite others to our house. Couldn’t do that with the tent, it was too others to our house. Couldn’t do that with the tent, it was too small. Party time! We have a roof that doesn’t leak...much. Walls small. Party time! We have a roof that doesn’t leak...much. Walls where the wind doesn’t blow through. And it doesn’t flap. We’d where the wind doesn’t blow through. And it doesn’t flap. We’d better think real well about where we stick our hut; it may be better think real well about where we stick our hut; it may be

99–VOCJ–00 99–VOCJ–00 197 197 there for a while if we do it right. there for a while if we do it right.

Next we make it an insulated shelter. Some insulation Next we make it an insulated shelter. Some insulation comes by accident, as when your hut gets buried by snow. Or comes by accident, as when your hut gets buried by snow. Or maybe it is made out of logs. But insulation is cheap and we are maybe it is made out of logs. But insulation is cheap and we are building for quality and permanence. An insulated shelter can be building for quality and permanence. An insulated shelter can be heated a little, by body heat, by cooking stoves, by a kerosene heated a little, by body heat, by cooking stoves, by a kerosene heater. But it is still clammy. And it still smells. heater. But it is still clammy. And it still smells.

Finally, we add the crowning achievement of the 20th cen- Finally, we add the crowning achievement of the 20th century, a heater with a chimney. By venting combustion products tury, a heater with a chimney. By venting combustion products outside we don’t have to breathe them, and the stale air going up outside we don’t have to breathe them, and the stale air going up the chimney forces fresh dry air to be drawn into the hut. The the chimney forces fresh dry air to be drawn into the hut. The walls don’t stream. The snow on the floor melts. Now we can dry walls don’t stream. The snow on the floor melts. Now we can dry clothes. Maybe we can dry those socks. Maybe the skins will work clothes. Maybe we can dry those socks. Maybe the skins will work tomorrow. tomorrow.

Postscript: Postscript: This has not explored a great many issues associated with the building This has not explored a great many issues associated with the building of huts. Among things left un-discussed are “It’s nice to invite the world into of huts. Among things left un-discussed are “It’s nice to invite the world into your hut, but not if there’s no room in it for you”, what if it’s full when you your hut, but not if there’s no room in it for you”, what if it’s full when you arrive? If you don’t build a trail to your hut, is this a responsible way of limit- arrive? If you don’t build a trail to your hut, is this a responsible way of limit- ing use? Can wood fuel be gathered economically from nearby without doing ing use? Can wood fuel be gathered economically from nearby without doing irrevocable ecological damage, or must it be flown in inefficiently at great ex- irrevocable ecological damage, or must it be flown in inefficiently at great expense? Will the presence of a hut increase traffic into an area and will the in- pense? Will the presence of a hut increase traffic into an area and will the increased traffic destroy the area? How do you realistically stop people in the hut creased traffic destroy the area? How do you realistically stop people in the hut from snoring? Why do you want to spend time with these inconsiderate slobs from snoring? Why do you want to spend time with these inconsiderate slobs anyway? I believe that all these questions can and should be answered on a anyway? I believe that all these questions can and should be answered on a case-by case basis. case-by case basis.

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Photo Credits Photo Credits

Front Cover: Front Cover:

Tracking out Yoho in true VOC style Tracking out Yoho in true VOC style Photo: Elise Breyton Photo: Elise Breyton

Back Cover: Back Cover:

Rapping off Monkey Face, Smith Rocks Rapping off Monkey Face, Smith Rocks Photo: Owen Driscoll Photo: Owen Driscoll

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Varsity Outdoor Club Club Outdoor Varsity Journal – 1999 2000

Varsity Outdoor Club Journal 1999 – 2000