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Varsity Outdoor Club Journal 2009–10 Varsity Outdoor Varsity Outdoor Club Journal Varsity 2009–10 Varsity Outdoor $20.00 • issn 0524-5613 Club Journal Cover design by Iva Cheung Cover photograph by Christian Veenstra vancouver Printed and bound in Canada by Hemlock www.ubc-voc.com on Forest Stewardship Council–certified paper 2009–10 Varsity Outdoor Club Journal 2009–10 Volume LII vancouver Copyright © 2010 by the Varsity Outdoor Club Texts © 2010 by individual contributors Photographs © 2010 by photographers credited All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, without the prior written consent of the publisher. TheVarsity Outdoor Club Journal (est. 1958) is published annually by The Varsity Outdoor Club Box 98, Student Union Building 6138 Student Union Mall University of British Columbia Vancouver, bc v6t 2b9 www.ubc-voc.com issn 0524-5613 Cover design, text design and typesetting by Iva Cheung Content and structural editing by Christian Veenstra and Line Veenstra Copy editing by Emily Ackroyd, Vicky Alfred, Roland Burton, Christian Champagne, Iva Cheung, Dan Eagen, Erik Frebold, Doris Leong, Madeleine Martin-Preney, Lisa Pittl, Nikola Plavakova, Julian Reitter, Gili Rosenberg, Ignacio Rozada, Kaja Sadowski, Phil Tomlinson, Lara Thompson, Christian Veenstra, Kristin Warkentin and Janine Welton Proofreading by Roland Burton, Ignacio Rozada and Christian Veenstra Advertising sales by Christian Champagne and Kristin Warkentin Production management by Christian Champagne, Christian Veenstra and Line Veenstra Cover photo: The Meager Obelisk, by Christian Veenstra Printed and bound in Canada by Hemlock Printed on paper that comes from sustainable forests managed by the Forest Stewardship Council Contents 1 President’s Message • Christian Veenstra 4 VOC Executive 2009–10 9 Photo Contest 2010 15 Skiing & Winter Mountaineering 19 Sphinx Ski Camp 2010 • Christian Veenstra 24 Skunked Again on Atwell • Fred Touche 28 In Search of Eldorado • Richard So 34 How Not to Introduce Your Girlfriend to Backcountry Skiing • Phil Tomlinson 38 Mt. Rohr on Skis • Maya Goldstein 41 Crossing the Garibaldi Neve: April 2009 • Paul Lanfranchi 46 Backcountry Virgin • Ayoe Ingemann Buhl 51 The (Not So) Misty Icefield • Evan Morris 60 Escape from Mt. Howard • Piotr Forysinski 64 Escape from Exodus Peak • Piotr Forysinski 71 Garibaldi: The Worms • Ben Singleton-Polster 75 North Creek Ski Traverse: Ascents of Mts. Sampson and Thiassi • Jordan Best, Bram van Straaten & Lee Wasilenko 80 Variant of the Squamish-Cheamus Divide • Meghan Anderson 86 Garibaldi Summit via Brohm Ridge: The Great Elevation Gain Bang • Lee Wasilenko 91 The Snow Camp Mtn. Trip Report • Marek Labecki & Michael Boni 97 Climbing & Mountaineering 101 Sky Route in the Trees • Maki Sumitani 103 Meager Obelisk: The Hard Part is Getting There• Christian Veenstra 106 Escape from Yak Peak • Jeff Mottershead 116 Where’s Old Settler? • Richard So 121 Caramba Crags • Jeff Mottershead 129 Climbing the Nesakwatch Spires • Richard So 136 Tantalus Tantalizing • Ran Zhang 143 Hiking & Scrambling 147 Red Pillar • Gili Rosenberg 152 Semi-Alcoholic Traverse • Lisa Pittl 156 Hiking Solo up the Black Tusk • Paul Lanfranchi 159 VOC Trip to Castle Towers: August 14–16, 2009 • Sam Mason 163 An Early Taste of Winter • Gili Rosenberg 166 Outrigger to Sun Peak Traverse • Ben Singleton-Polster 170 Garibaldi Lake/Panorama Ridge Faff-fest • Lewis Kitchen 173 My First, and Definitely Not Last, Totally Self-Propelled Trip: September 12–13, 2009 • Nick Matwyuk 177 When Fartzilla Attacks • Bob Lai 181 Garibaldi for Dummies • Mieke Coppes 186 The Tale of Cottonwood Trail: Kluane, Yukon • Breanne Johnson 194 Garibaldi Neve Traverse in Summer • Gili Rosenberg 199 The Old Settler Lesson • Marek Labecki 212 The North Coast Trail • Paul Lanfranchi 217 Adventure on Mount of the Holy Cross • Todd MacKenzie 227 Land & Water 229 Cycling Season • Maya Goldstein 235 Getting into Whitewater Kayaking • Anne Vialettes 241 Row, Row, Row Your Kayak: A Report of 9 Boats on the Indian Arm • Caitlin Schneider 243 So You Think You Can Kayak? • Caitlin Schneider 245 Capt. Duncan P.S. • Mike Leishman 253 Travels Abroad 255 Mexican Outdoor Adventures • Pascale Cometto 259 Ice-Age Problem • Nina Varsava 264 Maya Land • Maya Goldstein 271 北海道の山スキー: Backcountry Skiing in Hokkaido, Japan • Matt Parisien 276 Balkan Rock • Craig Alfredson 281 Ridiculously Serious, or Seriously Ridiculous • Lewis Kitchen 285 Club Life & Reflections 289 Phelix Reno Trip: August 1–3 • Kevin Burton 291 2009 Waddington Hut Renos: Why Did I Do This Twice? • Sam Mason 297 Not for the Faint of Heart: Brew Hut, October 3–4, 2009 • Artem Bylinskii 299 How to Stay in Canada after Your Exchange (or Tips and Warnings about Marrying a VOCer) • Line Lund Veenstra 303 Frosty • Emily Ackroyd 306 VOC Memory • Ignacio Rozada 310 Life Is Hard • Lewis Kitchen 313 A Year with the VOC • Roland Burton 330 Secretary’s Story • Janine Welton “Now I CaN CheCk The CoNDITIoNS Before I SkIN UP.” Get avalanche bulletins on your iPhone with this free application. Proof DocKet # 4041-3 lAnguAge english version iphone App ProJect community Ad insertion 15 Apr 2010 size 5.375” x 8.375” PuBlicAtion uBc voc Ann. Journal Designer Michael, [email protected] colours B & W FA ProoF DAte 15 Mar 2010 File nAMe 4041-3_community_uBc_voc_Annual_Journal_FA MoUNTaIN eQUIPMeNT Co-oP 149 West 4th Avenue, vAncouver, Bc v5Y 4A6 604.707.3300 “Now I CaN CheCk The President’s Message CoNDITIoNS Before I SkIN UP.” christian veenstra i’m overwhelmed by the club yet again. This journal is the product of a massive quantity of energy from many high-quality individuals. Just flip back to the credits page and check them all out. Completed on a very accelerated schedule, this would not have been possible without the love and help of all of them. With only 2 weeks remaining before the printing deadline the club sprung into action, producing 40 more articles and editing all 60 in under a week. Iva Cheung typeset the whole thing in an amazing 3 days (thanks to a flood at her workplace, which took out their electricity, giving her a day off) while Christian Champagne, my wife, Line, and I managed the influx of keen helpers, articles and photos. The journal is always somewhat of a last-minute scramble and requires the love and help of many—but this year was a bit different in that its completion did not depend on the journal editor alone but hinged on many individuals. A whole club, perhaps. Although this is my second year as president, still the VOC never ceases to amaze me. Despite all the crazy and ambitious projects and trips I’ve watched succeed during my past years in the club, it still gets me every time (success is a spectrum, of course). From new faces finally organizing that first trip at Red 1 Get avalanche bulletins on your iPhone with this free application. Heather, my own Phelix Creek Trail, to epic projects like Jeff Mottershead’s Europa (which, if it seems like a distant legend Proof DocKet # 4041-3 lAnguAge english version iphone App ProJect community Ad insertion 15 Apr 2010 size 5.375” x 8.375” PuBlicAtion uBc voc Ann. Journal Designer Michael, [email protected] colours B & W FA ProoF DAte 15 Mar 2010 File nAMe 4041-3_community_uBc_voc_Annual_Journal_FA MoUNTaIN eQUIPMeNT Co-oP 149 West 4th Avenue, vAncouver, Bc v5Y 4A6 604.707.3300 varsity outdoor club journal 2009–10 to you, consider reading Ignacio’s article on VOC Memory, and then finding a copy ofVOCJ 50). Somebody harnesses the club’s energy, makes that jump of commitment to get it started, and afterwards leaves the club with more energy than before and the community a better place. Usually it comes at great personal effort, but the organizers always seem to enjoy it. At least in retrospect. During the Phelix renos this summer we moved the out- house. An oversized structure to allow for solar composting (which never worked out) and built of 3/4" ply and 2 × 4s the thing must weigh over 500 pounds. We started by digging a new hole, levelling the ground around it, and faffed around remov- ing heavier pieces. But I didn’t really feel the commitment until we tipped it over—as the edge cleared the ground and daylight appeared through the crack underneath. When the structure was belayed to a rest the commitment settled in and I wondered, for a minute (as I always do), if we’d bit off more than we could chew. Then, as some 20 VOCers (and 3 or 4 BCMCers as well) picked it up and carried it over to its new home, I knew it was going to work out. It was upright again the next day, a big stinky monument of accomplishment, with a whole crew who knew it as their outhouse. Last Monday I got a similar feeling about the journal—was it worth getting people roused up? What if it fails? Will enough of the right people appear? But the people appeared—new faces and old friends. Some people with time, some with experience, and (thankfully) even some with both. It came together. Here it is; you’re reading it. It’s your journal. It’s been a great honour for me to help harness and channel this club’s energy over these past two years. Thank you for that opportunity—seeing the club as a part of you has been a big part of me. I love it all—from getting people out on that first trip to watching slideshows from people climbing at a level I 2 know I’ll never reach myself. It hasn’t always been perfect, but it’s been a damn good time and I’ve made a lot of friends along President’s Message the way.
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