We are interviewing Julia in San Di who is interested would have to be an ego, California, where, with her hus awful clunk not to learn. Of course, band-manager Paul Child, she has come there's a difference between learning to conduct an in-person cooking dem techniques and having talent. It's like a onstration for the benefit of the Uni pianist; there will always be good musi versity of California Medical Center. cians, and then there will be the genius. The sponsoring group represents a BON APPETIT: What would you tell the growing sophistication in home cook novice about the best way to start learn ing, which has been fostered in large ing to cook?Can you learn from a book? part by Julia's own books and television appearances. One of the sessions, for JULIA CHILD: Of course, if the book is example, is to be devoted entirely to well thought out. The first thing to do pufF pastry, a subject so specialized that is to really start cooking and to remem even four or five years ago it would ber right from the beginning, as my never have filled the hall. Yet seats for husband says, that everyone falls flat on the demonstration are sold out. The his face when he starts learning to walk. San Diego connoisseurs and others like Suppose you are trying to make your them are now comfortably launched, in first mayonnaise. Naturally you are Julia's opinion, so it's time she turned going to read carefully and to try to her attention to people who love to follow the directions, but suppose it cook but still get upset when she says doesn't turn out? It's still a learning coq au vin instead of chicken stew. experience. It's like your omelets—start "Just the other day," she confides, "1 doing them. What if one falls in the told a woman to use some tomato stove? A dozen eggs doesn't cost as fondue and she seemed to think that much as $25 per lesson. INTEBVIEW would be far too difficult. So 1 said. In my books 1 like to start out giving Then just use some tomatoes sauteed something like a chocolate mousse as a WITH in a little butter with salt and pepper,' beginning recipe because you're going and she seemed very relieved. 'Yes,' she to learn how to melt chocolate, what to told me, 'I could do that!' " do with egg yolks, how to beat whites, "Julia Child and Company," which how to fold. These are fundamentals, airs on the PBS television network things you will do again and again. beginning in October, and the compan BON APPETIT: Don't you think it makes ion cookbook of the same title (which a big difference when a person has been \J will be published in conjunction with JULIA lucky enough to be raised in a home the show) represent a departure in for with good cooking? mat—but not in principle—from Julia's famous "French Chef" series. Each seg JULIA CHILD: Tremendous difference. ment will present the cooking star and You're lucky to grow up in a home with CHILD her guests (the company) at a party a big family kitchen and everybody has meal—for example; "A Kitchen Cock something to do. You learn to cook BY RITA LEINWAND tail Party," and "Dinner for the Boss." without even knowing you're doing it. Though the titles are thoroughly And I think it's terribly important to FOLLOWING A REIGN OF some fifteen years contemporary and the recipes new, take children along on shopping tours as America's best-known "French Julia's cooking still stems from the clas because if little Johnny has picked out chef," California-born Julia Child has sic cuisine which she studied in post something and later cooks it, then he come to a decision. It's time, she tells war Paris when, in her words, "Cooking will be anxious to taste it. It's like the us, that she break out of what she calls was a serious art form, nothing was too French apprentice system when you are her French "straitjacket." And in her much trouble to do absolutely beau part of a family of good cooks. new TV series, "Julia Child and Com tifully, and the feeling in the kitchen BON APPETIT: What if you weren't so was of art for art's sake." pany," we won't be hearing much about fortunate and you really needed the French cooking, only "inventive cook stimulation of live cooking classes? ing—general good cooking." BON APPETIT: So often you've been How do you pick out a good school? So saying, the doughty Julia crinkles heard to say that anyone can learn to After all, anyone can put up a sign that her hazel eyes into the mischievous cook, yet some people have much better smile she's beamed at us so many times says "Cooking School." Some people luck than others. Just what is the vital feel that cooking teachers should be a c r o s s h e r T V k i t c h e n c o u n t e r . S h e element that makes the difference? credentialed. What do you think? knows she has done more than any other cooking personality to popularize JULIA child: I do think there are some JULIA child: Oh no. If the teacher and demystify French cuisine for the who are not hungry enough to be good knows more than the students—that's American public; yet she will not rest cooks and have little interest in food. fine. If I were a beginner, I would be until every man, woman and child is It's rare that those people will cook very happy to learn from anybody who totally without fear in the kitchen. well. But a normally endowed person could teach me anything. Then I would

88 BON APPETIT / SEPTEMBER 1978 PHOTOGRAPHED BY BRIAN LEATART go on to a more advanced program. I am sider indispensable in your kitchen? not against having home cooks as JULIA CHILD: A good knife and a good teachers. Of course it's one thing to frying pan. want to learn to cook for your family and quite another if you are talking BON APPETIT: What do you think about about starting a restaurant. Then you the food processor? would want to go to a school for profes JULIA CHILD: Marvelous, the most im sional chefs. portant kitchen implement invented BON APPETIT: Could you suggest a min since the electric mixer. imum library of basic cookbooks every BON APPETIT: You haven't forgotten kitchen should have. about the microwave? JULIA CHILD: Well, 1 would think my JULIA CHILD: I have one. We have two own Mastering the Art of French Cooking, freezers and 1 use the microwave a great Volume One [Knopf, $15}, because it is deal for defrosting and reheating a textbook. Then, certainly everyone chicken stock, for melting butter. I do should have the Larousse Gastronomique very little cooking with it. I find it [by Prosper Montague, Crown, $20], La much easier to bake a potato, for in Technique [by Jacques Pepin, Quad stance, in the oven. rangle/The New York Times Book Company, $20} and The Joy of Cooking BON APPETIT: Microwave seems to have [by Irma S. Rombauer and Marion large appeal among people who have Rombauer Becker, Bobbs-Merrill, $10} very limited time for cooking. What because it is one of the most thorough advice do you have for them? of the American books. I also love The "If I were a JULIA child: If you're talking about James Beard Cookbook [E.P. Dutton &. busy people who like to eat, then 1 Company, $7.95} and his fish cookery would say, the more you know about beginner I'd be book, James Beard's New Fish Cookery cooking the faster you can cook. There [Little, Brown and Company, $9.95}. is no excuse for someone to say, "I work very happy to A good way to judge a cookbook is by all day and when 1 get home at six, I learn from looking up a recipe you already know. can't make dinner." I find that I can See how a bechamel sauce is made, if make a very good meal in an hour, the roux is cooked. If it's not, then the simple, but very good. anybody who author doesn't know what he is doing. BON APPETIT: How much use do you cou d teach me BON APPETIT: Do you have any basic make of convenience foods? cooking commandments? JULIA child: We don't use much- anything." JULIA CHILD: Thou shalt read the recipe sardines, tuna fish, almond paste. For through before starting to cook. That's one of my TV shows 1 was planning a important. And certainly, thou shalt session on quiche, and our neighbor gather all the ingredients and pots and happened to tell me she was so pleased pans to begin with. It is ridiculous to with a quiche she had made in a bought start out and find you need a two-quart shell that 1 decided to use one for our cake pan and you don't have it. Or TV quiche. The main thing is to get got to produce food, anything that will you're doing a fish and there's nothing people to cook. If they make their first help is just fine. to cook it in, or if it does get cooked, quiche in a bought shell, I'm all for it. BON APPETIT: Sardines, tuna and nothing to serve it on. Then maybe the next time they'll make corned beef hash sound like the nu BON APPETIT: Equipment can be a prob t h e i r o w n . cleus for an emergency shelf. Is there lem especially for a novice cook. 1 also use corned beef hash. That's anything else you would suggest that one thing Paul and 1 love. I have Italian JULIA CHILD: If you don't have the right every cook have on hand? plum tomatoes and canned cannellini equipment, pick another recipe. I think JULIA child: 1 think you can have some beans and canned black Mexican beans the best thing a good cook can do, and on hand. Also canned peaches because pastry dough and some puff pastry in I'm talking about a serious cook, not your freezer, and homemade bread. the one-upmanship type, is to get you can boil down the syrup with cin namon and wine to give it more flavor Lately we've been buying pasteurized canned crab from Chesapeake Bay that equipment that will last. Saucepans and then put the peaches in. I have also should be solid heat conductors with keeps indefinitely in the refrigerator. used a combination of both canned and handles that won't fall off. There is a lot You open the can and let it sit in the fresh fruits. of junk around. Get good knives and refrigerator for an hour. Rather than learn how to sharpen them and store BON APPETIT: Obviously you don't feel washing the crab you let it aerate. It can them in a place where the blades won't that a cook must suffer to produce a be turned into a crab quiche or crab be knocking together. wonderful dish. salad. You should always, of course, BON APPETIT: What tools do you con- JULIA CHILD: Of course not! If you've continued on page 93

BON APPETIT / SEPTEMBER 1978 89 JULIA CHILD Most of my equipment is on open continued from page 89 shelves. We do have some closed cup have eggs and cheese in the refrigerator. boards but everything is hanging and we have two great sinks so when 1 am R K i 1 / V 1 1 1 > . J n o o i v r g j r BON APPETIT: When you decide to diet, through with something, 1 put it into Classic recipes from 175! to the how do you handle it? the sink and put a tray over it. That way present for otitstanding clio\vders~-r - ■ " ' 1 don't have a mess. Besides it's profes ol' lish. slielHish. corn, parsnips, ciiicketi. JULIA child: I go down to 1200 calo veai. and tiiitch more. Chowder makes a ries—of anything. I write everything sional to clean up as you go along. 1 like satisfying, delicious one-dish meal. "Good down. I try to have 150 at breakfast, 200 the open kitchen because 1 want to be reading, good eating" (Virginia Bentlev). for lunch and always a glass of wine or at my dinner party along with every S6.95 paper. SI2.50 eioth At your bookstore, or from two at dinner, but no cocktails. Small body else. .a. The Harvard Common Press helpings, no seconds, that's the way to BON APPETIT: What about food cliches? Harvard, Mass. 01451 do it. And we do exercises in the morn Do you keep track of what's in and ing. Paul has a rowing machine, I do my w h a t ' s o u t ? own set of exercises. JULIA CHILD: One thing that's gotten to C H E E S E C A K E C O O K B O O K BON APPETIT: Speaking of weight be a cliche in French restaurants is the Simple instructions, time-saving tips, last- minute serving suggestions. Includes 40 watching, what's your opinion of ubiquitous little nouvelle cuisine stew of cheesecakes, traditional & exotic. Detailed nouvelle cuisine and the emphasis on fish in white wine with julienne of sections on crusts, glazes, toppings, etc. starchless sauces? lOOO's of variations. S5 ppd. from; carrots, celery, leeks, mushrooms and Licorne Publishing JULIA CHILD: We all know it's unhealth- truffles. 1 got thoroughly sick of it, Box 84/309. Los Angeles, CA 90073 ful to eat too much of anything, but though it was awfully good the first few what's wrong with a little flour? You've times. And in this country, of course. got to thicken things with something. If Beef Wellington is out, but if it's beau 201 Creole Reclpes-M. you want a puree of artichokes that tifully done, 1 think it's still a delicious N E W O R L E A N S C O O K B O O K g u i d e s y o u i n t h e ; preparation of 201 famous Creole specialties. A tastes like artichokes or a puree of dish. And 1 also like Veal Orloff, which ; treasury of gourmet delights! carrots that tastes like carrots, use flour. is supposed to be out. If you're in a veal Only $1.00, postpaid! if——— Box 19221-X, 2919 Lafitte, It's neutral. Maybe flour has such a bad country, a plain roast of veal can get iki i 7 New Orleans, LA. 70179 name because people aren't making boring as a plain broiled lobster can. You ^azins/ their sauces properly. They don't pay wouldn't want that every day. 1 could attention to the proper cooking of the eat chicken day in and day out because roux. With a properly cooked roux you you can do so many things with it. have a perfectly good sauce, so what's BON APPETIT: Do you enjoy eating in PURE QUEBEC wrong with flour? restaurants? BON APPETIT: Do you worry about con MAPLE SYRUP JULIA CHILD: Good restaurants we love, trolling cholesterol in your diet? but 1 think it's painful when they're Made by local Quebec farmers in the traditional not. 1 am not terribly pro the three star JULIA child: 1 just don't know what to way learned from the In believe anymore. 1 am continually ask restaurants in France, but it depends on dians over 200 years ago. Guaranteed completely free from additives or ing doctors, our own doctor at home: what time of year you go. If you go preservatives. Money refunded if not satisfied. "How do you feel about butter and during tourist season, it's mass cook Shipped duty-paid. cream?" His answer always stresses ing. 1 like smaller ones that take about I Post House Products moderation in all things and a varied 40 people. Then you get personal food. I Box 423. Victoria Station. Montreal. Quebec H3Z2V8 ■

diet plus weight watching and exercise. BON APPETIT: In all the world who 1 □Please I jug (SOCcc) rush Quebec me Maple the Syrup follo'wing: @ $4.95. . | □ A varied diet means you would not eat I - jUgs (2 or more) @ $4.65 each. | would you like most to cook for you? I I enclose check or money order for $ fl too much butter or cream. How much I (Add 50c, to each order for shipping and handling I truth there is to all the cholesterol JULIA CHILD: 1 would be happy to have Paul Bocuse cook for me. 1 hear Danny business, 1 have no idea; 1 keep reading different things all the time. 1 do know Kaye is very good. We have worked with A delicious discovery! ] it's terribly dangerous for people to be Jim Beard in our kitchen. Marcella afraid of their food. 1 understand that Hazan has cooked for us and that was '^Hungarian delicious. Michel Guerard. Anybody fear raises blood serum cholesterol. Culinary Art" who enjoys eating and is interested in by j. Venesz. . world renowned Hun BON APPETIT: Because of Paul's career cooking. 1 also enjoy my own cooking. garian chef. 160 pages of authentic in the diplomatic service, you must Naturally, food is important to me— Hungarian recipes. have moved around a great deal and it's my hobby and my business. But 1 Only $2.98 postpaid. designed many kitchens. notice that people are traveling more Includes free H. Roth catalog of more JULIA CHILD: Well, about fourteen. and after they've had a taste of good than a thousand hard-to-find gourmet food, they're not satisfied with poorly utensils, foods and spices that make BON APPETIT: Which is your favorite? cooked meals. More and more they are good cooking great cooking. Many marvelous gift ideas. JULIA CHILD: 1 think it is our present reaching the conclusion that often the H . R O T H & S O N D E P T 4 Cambridge kitchen. Everything is out way to get good food is to cook it ^ 1577 1 St Ave. n(y., N .Y. 10028 J in the open. My guests watch me cook. yourself. □

BON APPETIT / SEPTEMBER 1978 93 CHOULIBIAC Fillets of Sole Baked with Mushrooms and Fish Mousse

Choulibiac is Julia Child's cloudlike version of Russian Coulibiac, or fish pie. 1. With help from assistant Rosemary Manell, Julia turns out an oversize crepe in which fish will be wrapped. 2. Tradition calls for sal mon or pike, but Julia prefers the lightness of sole fillets. 3. Sole is sea soned with shallots and Cognac. 4. Another variation on the original — Julia substitutes pate a chou for the more substantial brioche dough. 5. Food processor takes over the job of beating eggs into chou paste and (6) quickly minces mushrooms for duxelles. Julia further shortens duxelles-making process by pressing juices from mushrooms before cook ing. 7. Trimming edges of crepe.

Julia Child's demonstration of her fanciful Serve the Choulibiac as an elegant first 6 ounces (l'/2 sticks) butter, cut fish baked in chou pastry was photographed course for an important dinner, or into '/2-inch pieces by Bon Appetit during her appearance in make it the plat de resistance for a 1 teaspoon salt San Diego last winter. luncheon party, following it with fresh 1 cup flour (measure by scooping asparagus vinaigrette, or artichokes, or dry-measure cup into flour and THE CHOULIBIAC is first cousin to the a composed salad, and a fruit or sherbet sweeping cff c .tess) Coulibiac, but while both are free-form dessert. The Chouilibiac is also an ex 4 to 6 larg .;,s fish structures, the Coulibiac is encased cuse to bring forth your best white in puff pastry or brioche, while the Burgundy, like a great Meursault or Filling ingre ients Choulibiac is baked in a puffing pate d Corton-Charlemagne. 16 skinlc s and boneless sole fillets chou, making it both lighter in texture (about 9 by 2 inches) or about and easier to execute. Its bottom is a For a rectangular Choulibiac about 2 pounds giant French crepe which encloses 12 by 5 by ZVz inches, serving 8 Vz pound (1 cup) skinless and layers of fillets of sole sandwiched in people. boneless halibut, or more sole between wine-flavored mushroom dux fillets elles, all surrounded by a delicate fish Batter for giant crepe, b.iked in a nonstick jelly roll pan, U by 17 inches 1 cup (Vz pint) heavy cream, mousse which in turn is then covered if p'-:sible. chilled with a thin cloak of chou pastry, and 1 quart (about 10 ounces) fresh handsomely decorated with pastry '/ ^ :up instant-blending flour mushrooms curlicues. Although elegant and cer '/2 zup milk tainly grande cuisine, it is a dish you can 1 large egg Miscellaneous assemble bit by bit, as you have time. 1 tablespoon cooking oil Several shallots or scallions The bottom crepe, for instance, you can Vz teaspoon salt A little Cognac, and dry Port make days ahead and either refrigerate wine or Sercial Madeira or freeze, as you can the mushroom Pate a Chou (about 3 cups), for fish mousse and for encasing Choulibiac. Salt, freshly ground white duxelles, and even the fish mousse. The pepper, ground nutmeg rest is quickly done, and assembling can IV2 cups water in a heavy- 4 or more tablespoons butter, for take place several hours before baking. bottomed 21/2 quart saucepan greasing pans, sauteing, etc.

90 BON APPETIT / SEPTEMBER 1978 in a Chou Pastry Crust

8. Creamy fish mousse, made in food processor or with a meat grinder, is spread down the middle of cooled crepe. 9. Careful layering of sole fih lets and duxelles stabilizes the struc ture, which is topped (10) with a final layer of mousse. 11. Assembly completed, edges of crepe are wrap ped around sides of fish, and the "package" is spread with chou paste. 12. Remaining paste is packed into pastry tube and used to decorate sur face. 13. Sprigs of parsley camouflage holes left behind by foil funnels in serted into comers to drain off bak ing juices. Layers of egg glaze create glossy coating.

Egg glaze (1 egg beaten with 1 brown top of crepe slowly and lightly— The pate a chou. Bring the IVi cups teaspoon water in a small bowl) it will seethe and bubble a bit as it water rather slowly to the boil with the 4 funnels made of aluminum foil browns but do not let it overcook and cut-up butter and the salt. As soon as (twisted around a pencil), Vs- stiffen. Remove from oven and with butter has melted, remove from heat inch opening, 1 inch long flexible-blade spatula carefully loosen and immediately dump in all of the cup- 3 cups hollandaise, mousseline crepe all around from edges to center of of flour at once, beating vigorously with s a u c e o r s a u c e v i n h l a n c t o pan—if it sticks it has not cooked quite a portable mixer and/or wooden serve with the Choulihiac long enough; return to lower level of spoon. (This is a thin mixture.) When oven 2 to 3 minutes more; slide crepe smooth, set over moderately high heat Special equipment. A portable electric off onto a cake rack. (When cool, you and beat for several minutes until mix mixer and electric food processor are ture begins to film the bottom of the desirable but not essential; otherwise, may roll crepe between 2 sheets of waxed paper and refrigerate, or wrap pan—indicating excess moisture has you will need wooden spoons and a boiled off. meat grinder. Also needed: a pastry hag, airtight and freeze.) a jelly roll pan and baking sheet, both If you have a food processor, scrape hot nonstick if possible. Seasoning the fiish fillets. Mince 3 ta blespoons shallots or scallions and set paste into machine, activate it, and The giant crepe. Do not use food aside in a small bowl, reserving half for break in 4 eggs rapidly, one after the processor. Place the flour in a mixing the mushrooms later. Choose a rec other, then stop the machine. Do the bowl and beat in the milk, egg, oil, and tangular or oval dish 10 to 12 inches same if you have a table model mixer, salt; let rest for 10 minutes. Meanwhile long, sprinkle a teaspoon of shallots in beating just until each egg is absorbed preheat oven to 400 degrees, smear jelly the bottom, and arrange over them an before adding the next. By hand, make a roll pan with a tablespoon of soft but overlapping layer of sole fillets; season well in center of hot paste in saucepan, ter, roll flour in it, and knock out lightly with salt and pepper, a few drops then beat in 5 eggs one by one either excess. Pour crepe batter into pan to a of Cognac, and continue with the rest with a portable mixer or a wooden depth of about Vk inch, and set in lower of the fillets, making probably 3 layers spoon. Break 6th egg into a bowl, blend level of oven for 4 to 5 minutes, until in all. Cover with plastic wrap and yolk and white with a fork, and how batter has set. Then place 4 to 5 inches refrigerate. (Set over ice if wait is more much to add to the paste depends on its under a medium-hot broiler element to than a few hours.) recipe continued on page 92

BON APPETIT / SEPTEMBER 1978 91 CHOULIBIAC Assembling the Choulibiac. Spread continued from page 91 the giant crepe, browned side down on a buttered baking sheet (nonstick if thickness—it should just hold its shape possible), and trim off any stiff edges in a spoon. Beat in as much of the final with scissors. Spread '/t of the fish egg by droplets as you judge safe, re mousse in a rectangle about 12 inches membering the more egg the more the long and 5 inches wide down the center, pastry puffs, but you don't want it to and over it arrange half the fish fillets, Make America smarter. thin out too much. slightly overlapping. On top of that Remove Vi cup of the chou pastry to a spread Vz the mushroom duxelles, then Give to the college medium-sized metal mixing bowl and the rest of the fish fillets, and remaining of your choice. reserve for fish mousse, next step. If you duxelles. Beat any fish-seasoning juices have used a food processor, scrape paste into reserved mousse, and spread CounctI for Financial Aid to Education, Inc MKi 680 Fifth Avenue. New York, N.Y. 10019 back into saucepan (and do not wash mousse over top and sides of fish struc out processor, simply replace blade); ture, then bring the ends and sides of A Public Service of This Magazine & The Advertising Council. cover pastry with plastic wrap, set in a the crepe (cutting out the corners) up pan of hot but not simmering water, over the fish. Trim off excess crepe, and hold for final assembly. leaving a side edging on top of only an inch. Using a flexible-blade spatula The fish mousse. In processor, set the reserved Vz cup of chou pastry over ice dipped in cold water, spread a '/s-inch and stir several minutes with a wooden layer of chou pastry evenly over top and A C l a s s i c sides, masking the structure com spoon to chill. If you have a food pletely—but leave Vz cup or so of pastry processor, cut the halibut and one of for final decorations. Poke holes '/s inch Island Cake the sole fillets into '/2-inch pieces and Sanibel Island's famous across and Vz inch deep, angled toward place in the processor with the cold center of structure, in the lower part of Lemon Pecten Cake. Get the chou paste, 14 cup of chilled cream, Vz original recipe, a history and each of the 4 corners, and insert but teaspoon salt, several grinds of white tered foil funnels (to drain out any Jhe beautiful sheii cake pepper, and a big pinch of nutmeg; I pan. Only $6.50 , activate the processor for about a min juices during baking). Refrigerate the plus $1 postage Choulibiac if you are not continuing— ute, until fish is ground into a fine but plan to bake it within a few hours. paste. If still stiff, beat in more cream by the unpressured cooker dribbles—mousse must be just firm Final decorations and baking. (Bak 32 Periwinkle Place. Sanibel. Fla. 33957 enough to hold its shape for spreading; ing time-about 45 minutes.) Preheat scrape out of food processor into chou- oven to 425 degrees and set rack in paste bowl (do not wash processor, lower middle level. If chou pastry has simply replace blade and use for mush cooled and stiffened, beat over hot rooms, next step). Lacking a processor, water to soften and warm to tepid only; mIcroujQve put fish twice through finest blade of spoon it into a pastry bag with '/2-inch meat grinder and beat resulting puree cannelated tube. Paint Choulibiac with into the chou paste over ice, then, with a coating of egg glaze, then pipe chou- designed: a portable mixer, beat in the seasonings pastry decorations onto it—such as the E n d G u e s s w o r k ^ .. .with our super Micro- and by driblets as much of the cream as fanciful outline of a fish with mouth, Weigh Scale. Easy to use. the mixture will take while still holding Just place food on scale and eyes, fins; or a zigzag border all around pointer indicates cooking its shape. the edge, and a number of rosettes on time and power setting. Adjustment knob deducts Cover bowl with plastic wrap and, still top. Glaze the decorations and the rest the weight of utensil. Makes of the pastry with 2 coatings of egg. converting conventional over ice, refrigerate. (Or cover airtight recipes a cinch! and freeze if wait will be longer than S29 $20.p[usS1.50s.&h. Immediately set in oven and bake for 15 12 hours.) to 20 minutes at 425 degrees, or until Send for FREE BROCHURE of exciting new cookware the pastry top has begun to brown and designed and tested to give the best microwave results. The mushroom duxelles. Trim the to puff slightly; turn thermostat down mushrooms, wash rapidly, and if you to 375 degrees and continue baking micro-cook PRODUCTS are using a food processor, chop by DEPT. BA 11, P.O. BOX 159, GLENCOE. ILLINOIS 60022 another 20 minutes or so. Choulibiac is hand into '/z-inch pieces, then mince a done when you begin to smell a deli cup at a time in the processor—flipping cious odor of pastry, fish, and mush it on and off every second just until mushrooms are cut into '/s-inch pieces; rooms, and, finally, when juices start to d PAKKIh/XMit exude onto baking sheet. (Pastry will UIEISS IMPORTER otherwise, mince by hand with a big not puff a great deal, just slightly.) knife. To extract juices, either squeeze in a potato ricer, or twist by handfuls in Plan to serve as soon as possible, al ^t's cook Hungarian! the corner of a towel. Saute in a frying though the Choulibiac will stay warm You don't have to be in turned-off oven, door ajar, for 20 to Hungarian to love pan in 2 tablespoons hot butter and a homemade goulash and tablespoon of minced shallots or scal- 30 minutes—the longer it sits the more dumplings and strudel. lions, until mushroom pieces begin to its vital fish juices will exude. Loosen Hungarian Cookery is the most complete separate from each other—4 to 5 min bottom of Choulibiac carefully from Hungarian cookbook utes over moderately high heat, stir pastry sheet, using a flexible blade spat published in English. Over 1,000 authentic ring. Season lightly with salt and ula, and slide it onto a hot platter or a recipes! Hard cover. pepper, pour in 3 tablespoons Port wine serving board. $9.95, 3 for $28.. 6 for or Madeira and boil down rapidly to $50. ppd. Catalog free To serve, cut into crosswise pieces from with order. MC Visa evaporate liquid. Scrape the duxelles one of the short sides, and surround into a bowl and reserve. (If done in each portion with whatever sauce you Paprikas Weiss Dept. BA 103 advance, cool, cover, and either refriger have chosen. □ 1546 Second Avenue NYC 10028 ate for 4 to 5 days, or freeze.) Copyright © 1978 by Julia Child. All rights reserved.

92 BON APPETIT / SEPTEMBER 1978