Chapter I: Region, the Western gates of

1.1 Do you know Kaliningrad?

What do you know about Kaliningrad? Maybe you know that it is situated on the coast. If so, you know much more than average Russians do and even more than one Russian Parliament deputy, who was really surprised to discover one day that Kaliningrad region is separated from mainland Russia.

If you look on the map, you will find the tiny territory on the southern coast of the Baltic sea between and . The territory is also called "The Western Russian enclave" and it hosts the Special Economic Zone "Yantar" (Amber).

This land is really beautiful and special - and very different from any other region of Russia. It even doesn't look like Russia, as Russians say. Why? The answer goes back to history.

‹ Geographical Location and Climate

Kaliningrad Region, founded on 7th April 1946, is the westernmost territory of the Russian Federation. It is entirely isolated from the rest of the country by land borders with foreign states and by international sea waters. The closest Russian Regional centre – the cityt of Pskov - is 800 km away from Kaliningrad, while the distance to Moscow is 1289 km. The only Russian ice-free port on the Baltic sea is situated here. The transit communication routes crossing in the region are the shortest ways linking Russia with countries of Western Europe.

The distances to neighbouring European capitals are: 350 km to Vilnius, 390 km to Riga, 400 km to Warsaw, 600 km to Berlin, 650 km to Stockholm, 680 km to Copenhagen, 850 km to Oslo.

Kaliningrad region is located on the south-eastern coast of the Baltic Sea. It borders with the Lithuanian Republic in the north-east, with Poland in the south and it is washed by the Baltic Sea in the west and north-west. The territory of the region occupies 15,100 sq. kilometres and it is on the 85th place by its territory size among the 89 subjects of the Russian Federation and it is on the 60th place by its population. The region is divided into 18 districts including 5 city districts. Being so small, the territory is well developed: there are 22 cities and 5 . There are 1,096 villages in the region.

The sea coast length of the region is 150 km, including 100 km of sand beaches. Pregol (123 km) and Neman (115 km) are the longest rivers. The largest lake with an area of 18 sq. kilometres is Vyshtenets. There are unique natural zones and places for ecological tourism, such as National Nature Park "The Kurshskaya Spit" and "The Vislynskaya Spit" Park.

The climate of the region changes from moderate-continental to maritime. The average annual temperature is about 8ºC (like in Odessa, Lvov or Kiev). The average temperature in July is 17ºC and the average temperature in January is about -3ºC. The frost-free period lasts 180 days. The total fallout is 1,100 to 4,000 mm within 240 days a year. Spring and beginning of summer are often dry.

The soils are turfy, podzol, marsh and with combined varieties. Forestland is made of fir, pine, oak, birch, and maple. The fauna of the region is quite diverse: red deer, elk, roe, fallow-deer, wild boar, hair, etc. Natural climate and geographical conditions are good for the development of tourism, namely for the development of resort centres in the towns of Svetlogorsk, and Pionersky.

‹ Population

In 2003 the population of Kaliningrad region reached 955,200 people, including 77% of urban and 23% of rural population. Women constituted 52.2% of the population. There were 1,093 women per 1,000 men. According to the age criteria the population consisted of working population - 60.8%, younger than working - 19.5%, older than working - 19.7%. 30% of employed people work in industry and construction, 11% in agriculture and forestry, 8% in transportation and communication, 21% in the social sphere.

People belonging to more than 97 nationalities live in Kaliningrad region. The most numerous are Russians - 78%, followed by Belorussians - 7.7%, Ukrainians - 7.4%, Lithuanians - 1.9%, Armenians - 0.8%, - 0.6% and Poles - 0.5%.

The city of Kaliningrad has got 430,300 inhabitants, while the population of Sovietsk is 43,200 people, of is 42,900, of Baltijsk is 31,100 and that of Gusev is 27,800 inhabitants.

Kaliningrad region is one of the smallest territories in Russia, but it is the third for its population density (63 persons per sq. kilometre).

The strong tendency of population reduction both in the region and in Russia is considered as unfavourable due to a high share of aging population. In 2000 the number of residents reduced for 1,750 people as the number of dead exceeded the number of born by 1.9 times in the region.

‹ Public holidays

Public holidays in Kaliningrad are the same as in mainland Russia.

January 1st – 2nd New Year’s Day January 7th Russian Orthodox Christmas February 23rd Day of Fatherland Defenders March 8th International Women’s Day May 1st – 2nd Labour Day May 9th Victory Day (end of the Great Patriotic War) June 12th Independence Day (celebrated since 1991) November 7th Day of Reconciliation and Consent December 12th Constitution Day

‹ Local Time

Kaliningrad is situated in the East European Time Zone, GMT + 2 hrs. During daylight saving time (from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October) the time is GMT + 2 hrs. When it is 12:00 o’clock in Kaliningrad Region it is 10:00 o’clock in London, 11:00 o’clock in Rome and 13:00 o’clock in Moscow.

1.2 Historical background of the region

The City of Kaliningrad and the Region can truly be proud of their colourful and unique past as this territory had always found itself on the crossroads of European history. Among numerous important events that took place in the life of this region we shall mention just those that played a primary role in the formation of Kaliningrad Region as it is nowadays. Namely, they are related to the and to the foundation of Koenigsberg, to Napoleonic invasion, to the First and Second World Wars, to the acquisition of the region by the USSR.

‹ Teutonic Order and Foundation of Koenigsberg First settlers who lived here in the III millennium B.C. were mainly hunters. Thick forests rich with wild animals were perfect for hunting. The hunters lived among the lakes full of fish. In the middle of the III and in the end of the IV century some Germanic tribes moved into the Zemland peninsula. These events initiated the development of Prussian culture. By the beginning of the VI century Prussians took over the western part of the Mazur Lakeland having absorbed and edged out other Germanic tribes that settled there in the III - IV centuries B.C.

In the beginning of the XII century faced an impending danger. The Teutonic Order invasion at the end of the XII century wrote sanguinary pages in the history of Prussia. More than 50 years Prussians heroically struggled against the invaders. But they couldn't resist the rush of conquerors who had a higher cultural potential. Gradually Prussians assimilated, began speaking German and abandoned their customs. The Teutonic Order established its rule in the invaded lands. As the Order was proceeding eastwards, each successful crusade was immediately followed by the construction of fortresses and castles. In 1253-57, after a second crusade of the Teutonic Order led by the Bohemian King Ottokar II against the Prussians, a castle was built and called Koenigsberg (King’s mountain) in king’s honour. Fortress Koenigsberg became the most important outpost of Zemland germanization. In its heyday (XIV - XV centuries) the Order gained secure economic and political positions. But strong enemies opposed it. In winter of 1410 Poland and Lithuania began an active preparation to a joint military campaign against the Order. There were Russian units within the Lithuanian army as well. On 15th July a decisive battle took place near Grunvald. It lasted more than 6 hours and finished with the full triumph of Polish-Lithuanian- Russian forces. As a result, Teutonic knights were weakened and were brought thereafter under Polish sovereignty control.

‹ Koenigsberg during In 1812 became an area of powerful French armed force concentration. The forces were grouped for the campaign in Russia. arrived in Koenigsberg right before the beginning of the invasion. Here he passed muster to his army comprising also Prussian units that didn't participate in the military actions. On 6th January 1813 Russian troops marched into Koenigsberg, and by the end of the month Prussia was totally liberated from the Napoleon army.

‹ World War I The First World War took its great toll in East Prussia. Military disruptions, exacerbation of social, political and national contradictions in , Poland and Lithuania destroyed economic relations with neighbouring states and violated the historical openness of the region. This caused public discontent. Thus in November 1918 revolutionary events burst out in East Prussia and in entire Germany. But the revolutionary action fell through. On 4th - 5th March the last rebels were driven from the barracks in the Lithuanian Wall. Repression began in Koenigsberg and in other towns of East Prussia.

‹ World War II For about five years of the Second World War there were no military actions in East Prussia. But in 1944 a rush construction of the so-called "East Wall" began. The entire German defence system in the area was built as an in-depth defence and it stretched along the border of East Prussia up to the Baltic coastline. It represented a serious obstacle on the way of Soviet troops. But the first strike on East Prussia was not made by the , it was made by the British aviation. During the nights of the 27th and the 30th August 1944 the British dropped about 40,000 aerobombs on Koenigsberg. The centre of the old city was totally destroyed and almost 50,000 people became homeless. By the end of Summer 1944 the Red Army came up to the border of East Prussia. On 18th October 1944 the fighting troops of the 3rd Belorussian Front entered the area. The elimination of isolated nazi groups began on 10th February 1945. The defence system of Koenigsberg comprised the external defence line, which was overcome by Russian troops in January, and three internal defence lines. The traces of these lines are noticed even today, dozens of years after the battles.

‹ Acquisition of Koenigsberg by the USSR On 6th April 1945 the storm over the city began. The unified defence system of Koenigsberg held only for the first day and by the end of 9th April Koenigsberg capitulated. In July-August 1945, when the war in Europe was over, the victor countries - USSR, USA and Great Britain agreed on the liquidation of East Prussia at the Conference in Potsdam. The northern part with a total area of 15,100 sq. km including Koenigsberg, the adjacent territory and bays (about one third of the territory of the region) was given to the and the remaining part to Poland as a historical possession. These borders were fixed definitely in the Final Act of the Conference on security and co-operation in Europe held in Helsinki in 1975.

On 7th April 1946 the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the USSR adopted the Decree "On the Organisation of Koenigsberg Region within the RSFSR". On 4th July the administrative centre was re-named into Kaliningrad and the entire region into Kaliningrad region. According to the Potsdam Conference decision, the German population was to be resettled to Germany from the areas split off the German State. The relocation of German population from East Prussia began in 1947 and terminated by the beginning of 1948. On 21st June 1946 the Supreme Soviet of the USSR adopted the Decree "On Economic Arrangements in Koenigsberg Region" which envisaged the settlement of the population in the new area on principles of volunteerism, plan and state stimulation.

The formation of the region went on in difficult conditions. Out of 360 industrial enterprises located on the Soviet territory of East Prussia 182 of them were totally destroyed and the rest survived for 50-60%. The situation aggravated because of the lack of energy and raw material base. Plumbing and sewage systems could not function. Koenigsberg was 80-90% destroyed. Out of all administrative buildings only 8% of them were still standing. 60% of Tilsit (now Sovietsk), the second in size, and about 90% of Insterburg (now Chernyakhovsk) were in ruins.

Kaliningrad was to become one of the major fishing regions of the country. By 1st January 1947 four fishing factories, a wharf, foundry repair and engineering works, a refrigerated warehouse and other enterprises were already functioning. Two big seaports were organised in Kaliningrad on the basis of the former Lesnaya harbour and in Pionersky on the territory of the fishing harbour. The reconstruction of food industry began. Working capacity of electric power stations increased twice, the production of cellulose and paper grown. In August 1947 wagon works started mass production of four axis 50 ton dump cars.

In 1991, when the Baltic States declared independence and thus separated Kaliningrad from the rest of the country, Kaliningrad region automatically became a part of the newly independent Russia. Beginning from that time profound changes took place in the region. First of all they were related to abolition of the Kaliningrad region status. Formerly it used to be a closed area for foreigners, where major formations of Russian army and Navy were dislocated. This event stimulated economic activity in the region, made it attractive to foreign investments. In January 1996 the region was declared a Special Economic Zone.

By the third millennium Kaliningrad region has become a unique Russian area where many cultures of East, Central and West Europe co-exist.

As a result of all historical developments, there’s a special ethnic situation in Kaliningrad region. There are plenty of newcomers from different parts of the former Soviet Union. As the Soviet Union used to be a multinational state, some of the newcomers were certainly not Russians, having their own habits and traditions. Migrant waves came one after another. To some extent the region is very attractive by the same reason as the USA is: everybody is a stranger here, but in the same time everyone is entitled to live in this region.

On the other hand there are "real citizens" who feel their Kaliningrad identity. The major part of them are those who have lived here for a long time and feel themselves strangers in Russia... Isn't it really strange?

So, it is very difficult to read Kaliningraders. Their modern history is only 50 years old and it is still painful for people, whose families lost at least one member during the II World War. Kaliningraders are VERY different. So, it's better to consider the region as a tiny multinational area.

‹ History of the region in dates

1239 Foundation of castle as the first Teutonic Order fortification on the territory of the region. 1255 Foundation of Koenigsberg. 1257 King Ottokar II of Bohemia as the head of Teutonic Order conquers Prussian tribes that lived along the Baltic coast. 1283 The Teutonic Order colonizes the entire area. The only remaining of Prussian culture is just the name of the territory: Prussia. 1333 A Cathedral is built in Koenigsberg on the island of Kneiphof (nowadays called Central Island). 1339 Koenigsberg becomes a member of Hansa, the Trading Union of Baltic cities. 1360 First amber workshop is organised in Koenigsberg castle. 1384 Lithuania, a large part of Poland and the region of Koenigsberg are united by the Order becoming a very powerful state in the north of Europe 1409 Polish forces defeate the knights of the Teutonic Order at Tannenberg. A century long decline of the Order begins to end up in 1525 when the Order is dissolved and Prussia goes under Polish control. 1544 Foundation of Koenigsberg University under the name of Albertina. 1618 A marriage unites Prussia and the German State of Brandenburg. 1626 Swedish forces attack Prussia and the war against Swedish domination will last until the end of the century. 1640 First newspaper published in Koenigsberg. 1701 Friedrich Wilhelm I, the king of Brandenburg is crowned King of Prussia as well. 1716 Tzar Peter I receives the Amber Study (Amber room) as a present from Friedrich Wilhelm I. 1724 22nd April - , philosopher, was born in Koenigsberg. 1756 Seven Year War. Austria, Prussia, and Russia struggle one against the other for the dominion of the region. Eventually Prussian forces are defeated in the battle at Gross Egersdorf and Russia takes control of Prussia. 1776 24th January - Ernst Theodor Amadeus Hoffmann was born in Koenigsberg. 1800 The population of Koenigsberg reaches 55,000 inhabitants. 1805 A meeting of the emperors Alexander I and Napoleon takes place in Tilzit (now Sovietsk). 1807 In battle at Preisich Eilau German command abandons the city to the French army, which occupies Prussian territory. Napoleon enters Koenigsberg. 1813 Russian troops enter Koenigsberg as the French are retreating from the town. 1865 The railroad Koenigsberg - Pillau is opened. 1871 Koenigsberg becomes a part of Germany within East Prussia. 1892 The stadium Walter-Simon-Platz (now stadium "Baltica") is built. 1896 Koenigsberg Zoo opened. 1914 The First World War begins. Russian troops approach the suburbs of Koenigsberg. Battle at Tannenberg (Grunvald), defeat of Russian troops by the German army of general Hindenburg. 1919 In accordance with the Treaty of Versailles, Prussia becomes an independent province of German in spite of the fact that its territory is separated from the rest of Germany by the so called “Polish Corridor”. 1919 The Devau airport is opened in Koenigsberg. 1922 Establishment of an air connection between Koenigsberg and Moscow. 1933 Adolf Hitler comes to power in Germany, nazi dictatorship is established. The last Ober-president of East Prussia, V. Kutcher, ousted by gauleiter E. Koch. 1944 In August the British aviation makes two air raids on Koenigsberg destroying central districts of the city. On 17th August Soviet troops approach the boarder of East Prussia. On 17th October the first East Prussian town, Schirwindt (now the village of Kutuzovo, Krasnoznamensk district), is taken. 1945 In January, several towns, such as Insterburg (Chernyakhovsk), Tapiau (Gvardeisk), Wellau (Znamensk), Darkemen (Ozersk), Tilzit (Sovietsk) and Gumbinen (Gusev) are taken. In March, Heiligenbal () and the Balga castle are taken. On 6th April the Koenigsberg storm begins. On 9th April the capitulation of Koenigsberg is signed. Moscow salutes in the honour of troops that took the city. 1946 7th April - The decree of the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the USSR "On the Organisation of Koenigsberg Region within the RSFSR" is adopted. On 4th July the Decree of the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the USSR renames the city of Koenigsberg in Kaliningrad, and Koenigsberg region into Kaliningrad region. On 9th December the first newspaper "Kaliningradskaya Pravda" is printed. 1947 9th July - The resolution of the Government "On the Assistance in Restoration and Development of the National Economy of the Region" is adopted. 1962 First sea line Kaliningrad - Gdansk is opened. Beginning of sea communication with Germany, Poland, Finland and by sea-river vessels. 1979 29th December - Amber Museum is opened. 1980 Concert hall in the restored Church of the Holy Family is opened. 1990, 1991 As the Soviet Union collapses and the Baltic States (Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia) declare independence, Kaliningrad Region finds itself separated from the mainland. At the same time it automatically becomes a part of the Russian Federation. 1995 16th December - The monument to the famous Russian marshall M. Kutuzov, who commanded Russian army against Napoleon troops is erected. 1997 International Fleet Festival dedicated to the 300th anniversary of the Russian Fleet takes place. 1998 Danish and Swedish Consulates, as well as the office of Belarus Embassy in Moscow are opened in Kaliningrad. 1999 Kaliningrad receives the honorary flag of the Council of Europe. 2000 In November Vladimir Egorov is elected Governor of the region. 2002 In August regular air connection between Kaliningrad and Warsaw is established. 2002 Honorary Consulate of Greece opens in Kaliningrad. 2003 Lithuanian Consulate opens in Sovetsk (former Tilsit), second largest city of Kaliningrad region neighbouring Lithuania. 2003 From July 1st new visa regulations are in effect for passengers travelling between Kaliningrad and mainland Russia passing through the territory of Lithuania in transit. Poland is expected to require visas for Kaliningrad citizens from October 1st.

‹ Memorials and cultural heritage

Koenigsberg is known all over the world for its University named Albertina after its founder Prince Albert, for its culture and science, for the greatest philosopher Immanuel Kant, for the discoveries of the physicist and astronomer Frederick Bessel, for the great founder of Lithuanian literature Kristionis Doileitis, for the artist Kete Kolvin, for the writer and story teller Ernst Theodor Amadeus Hoffmann.

Modern Kaliningrad is often called a park, as one third of its grounds is covered with numerous parks, public gardens, promenades, and reservoirs. The Botanical Garden boasts close to 600 varieties of trees and bushes. On the city streets one can see Caucasian rhododendrons, chestnut trees, hawthorns, blue spruce trees, rare Bolle`s poplars and even gingo.

The dunes of the Kurshskaya Spit are very beautiful and Kalinigrad is renowned for its coastline where amber can be found on the beaches. The Ornithological branch of the Zoological Institute of the Russian Academy of Sciences, founded in 1901, is still operating here.

For 746 years of ancient Koenigsberg history its visage has been changing. Every passing epoch left monuments and memorials of history and culture. The testimonies of the passed times as ramparts and moats, towers and bastions, ravelins and forts are characteristic of Kaliningrad and the . On this territory fusion and inter- penetrating of Germanic and Slavic cultures took place.

That is why today there are monuments erected in honour of outstanding individuals in the history and culture of these peoples. There are 1853 monuments of culture, history, architecture and archaeology registered by the State. The central cult building of East Prussia is the Cathedral (Pic. 6, 7, 8). It was founded in 1333 and it was built in the northern germanic gothic style. The altar part of the Cathedral was the burial place of outstanding people of Koenigsberg. In 1588, a "professor crypt" was erected in the external part of the north nave. In 1804, an outstanding thinker and philosopher, Immanuel Kant, was buried here (Pic. 62). The Cathedral was reconstructed a few times during several centuries of its history. In August 1944 it severely suffered after the British air-raid. Beginning from 1992 the reconstruction of the Cathedral by the Kaliningrad craft masters with participation of the Centre of Restoration and Crafts of the city of Fulda (Germany) has started. Today the Museum with expositions dedicated to Immanuel Kant and to the history of the island Kneiphof (Central island – Pic. 9, 10) is located in the building of the Cathedral.

The building of the railway station (Pic. 36), the Palace of Culture of Seafarers (former Stock Exchange) (Pic. 60, 61), the Puppet theatre – up to now (former Queen Louise Church) (Pic. 24), St. Nicholas Cathedral (former Juditten Church), the Concert hall of the philharmonic (former Church of the Holy Family) (Pic. 63, 64), the Church Arnau (village Marjino, Gurievsk district), the barracks "Kronprinz", the villas in Kutuzova, Komsomolskaya streets and in Prospect Pobedy are among the objects of great historical and cultural inheritance. Special place among historical buildings is held by remnants of medieval castles: "Balga" ( district, 1239), "Preisich-Eilau" (town of Bargrationovsk, 1325), "Tapiau" (town of Gvardeisk, 1265), "Brandenburg” (village Ushakovo, Gurievsk district, 1266), "Kaimen" (village Zarechje, Gurievsk district, 1352), "Ragnit" (town of Neman, 1408), fortress Pillau (town of Baltijsk, XVIt century). Visitors of Kaliningrad may find of particular interest city gates of ancient Koenigsberg wall fortifications: "Rossgarter Gate" (Pic. 22) (Vasilevskogo Sq.), Sackheimer Gate (Moskovsky Prospect), King's Gate (Litovsky Wall), Brandenburg Gate (Suvorova St.), Fredland Gate (Prospect Kalinina), gate of the fortress Friedrichsburg (Portovaya St.), towers and forts of defence systems: Dohna Tower (Pic. 21), Vrangel Tower, Fort No. 5 (Pic. 23). There are monuments and places of interest in the oblast related to historical events and important people. In the town of Sovietsk (Tilsit) there is the famous Queen Louise Bridge constructed across the river Neman to mark the 100th anniversary of the Tilsit peace in 1807. Sculptures of Nymph (bronze, city promenade at the sea), of the Girl with a jug (marble, town park) (Pic. 113) by German Brachert decorate the town of Svetlogorsk (Rauschen). The sculpture Aqua- belle and the monument to Schiller (Pic. 56) by S.Kauer, the Fighting wisents (Pic. 5) by Gaul, the statue of Immanuel Kant (Pic. 19) by Rauch are located in Kaliningrad. In Gvardejsk there is a house where the artist Lovis Korint lived and created. There are monuments to great people of Russian and world history and culture: monuments are dedicated to Immanuel Kant, to Alexander Pushkin, to Schiller, to Alexander Suvorov, to Michail Kutuzov (Pic. 32). There are many monuments in the oblast related to the events of the Second World War and to East Prussia operations of 1945. There is a memorial complex "To 1200 warrior guards" in Kaliningrad (Pic. 39. 40, 41) dedicated to the participants of the Koenigsberg storm, monuments to A. Vasilevsky and to A. Marinesko.

1.3 German Kaliningrad

‹ Amalienau Between Mira Pr. and Pobedy Pr. A large area of very nice German villas and tree-lined avenues. Evidently, this part of town was spared by British air-raids and remains much as it was before the war… including the street pavement.

‹ Brandenburg Gate Vasilevskogo Sq. Named after General Friedrich Graf zu Dohna, and now the seat of the Amber Museum. The building was erected in 19th century and the main tower has a diameter of 34 metres. The Rossgaerter gate embodies the German Generals Scharnhorst and Gneisenau, heroes of the war bravely fought against Napoleon.

‹ Fighting wisents sculpture Mira Pr., by the State Technical University This sculpture is located by the main building of the Kaliningrad State Technical University. The building itself used to be the former Land Court House. The sculpture symbolizes the struggle between prosecution and defense.

‹ Kant Statue Universitetskaya St. This is not the original Kant statue, sculpted by Christian Daniel Rauch in 1857. The first statue was lost during the war, but the copy of the monument returned to his post in front of the university in 1992.

‹ King`s Gate Litovsky val & Frunze St. The King`s Gate depicts king Ottokar II, Prussian King Friedrich I and Duke Albrecht, the founder of Albertina University. During the war it remained relatively unharmed, but the present look badly lacks restoration and maintenance.

‹ Schiller statue Mira Pr., opposite the Drama Theatre This monument was shaped by Stanislaus Cauer and stands in front of the theatre since 1910. The poet was respected both by Germans and Russians as nobody had destroyed his pedestal during the war.

‹ Stock Exchange 83, Leninsky Pr. A former centre of commercial activity of the city. Even if someone says that the building is designed in the Italian renaissance style it still looks more like northern German style. It stands on the Pregol river bank and now serves as the Sailor`s House of Culture, casino and nightclub called Monetny Dvor (The Mint).

1.4 Soviet Kaliningrad

‹ Cosmonauts Memorial Mira Pr., opposite Leonova St. This is a really nice monument to Kaliningrad cosmonauts. The most well-known is Alexei Leonov, who became in 1965 the first man walking into the open space.

‹ House of Soviets Shevchenko, across from Hotel Kaliningrad This is a huge building, the largest in Kaliningrad that local people call “The Monster”. It stands in the area where King Ottokar II built the castle in 1280 and where the whole city originates from. In spite of the fact that it was an outstanding architectural relics and that many letters were sent to the Kremlin, it was destroyed to make room for the new building that had to become a symbol of Soviet power. The building stands huge, sad and useless, in this way strangely fulfilling its envisaged aim.

‹ Kalinin Statue Kalinina Sq. As a matter of fact Kalinin had nothing to do with the City and never came himself to the region that bears his name. In Soviet times it was an everyday practice to name cities after famous revolutionaries. This is why Kaliningrad was named after Mikhail Ivanovich Kalinin, in 1946 the President of the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the USSR. Now his monument stands on the square in front of the Railway Station greeting all travellers.

‹ Lenin Statue Pobedy Sq. Much surprising to a foreign visitor who is not accustomed to Russian reality, there is a statue of Vladimir Ilyich on the main square in Kaliningrad, who is still considered the father of post-czarist Russia. The monument represents Lenin’s arm outstretched, grasping his coat whipping in the wind. Art in Soviet times had political meaning. So, if you consider this monument from this point of view - it is really nice. Nowadays, an Orthodox Cathedral is being erected just behind this statue and that neighborhood is getting really awkward. When the construction of the Cathedral will be completed, it is likely that Lenin’s statue will be placed in a different site.

‹ Memorial & Burial Ground of the 1200 Guards Gvardeysky Pr. An outstanding memorial to Soviet soldiers who defeated nazi army conquering Koenigsberg. It consists of an obelisk, bronze statues and the eternal flame, where brides put their bouquets.

‹ Memorial to Heroes-Sailors near 60, Moskovsky Pr. An impressive real torpedo boat, floating in the sky.

‹ Memorial to Heroes Tank-drivers 28, Sommera St. As usual in Soviet cities this T-34 tank, which fought in Koenigsberg in 1945, now brings a lot of joy to kids who like to climb it.

1.5 Russian Kaliningrad

‹ Kutuzov Corner of Kutuzova & Pobedy In 1995 a memorial was unveiled to celebrate the 200th birthday of the Russian marshall Kutuzov, who defeated Napoleon, sweeping away his mighty army from Koenigsberg in 1813.

‹ Marshall Vasilevsky Marshall Vasilevsky Sq. This monument was erected in honour of the marshall who took part in the storming of Koenigsberg during the World War II.

‹ Submarine Hero A. Marinesko Bank of the Lower Pond This is one of the most recent monuments opened in Kaliningrad in 2002 in honour of the submarine hero that destroyed the famous German ship Kaiser Wilhelm during Second World War. As it turned out later, the destroyed ship was full of civil citizens running away from Koenigsberg. Guenther Grass, the German Nobel prize winner and writer wrote a book on this matter named Crabwalk.

‹ Peter the Great Beginning of Mira Pr. This statue is the most recent one in Kaliningrad. It was erected in front of the Headquarters of the Russian Baltic Fleet in honour of its founder on July 26th 2003, on the day of fleet’s 300th anniversary. This monument has its own particular style.