Discover Moray Eels Turtle Conservation in GUATEMALA

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www.caribbeanreefmag.com Issue # 2 July - Sept 2010 Dive Fest Tobago’s 1st Underwater Carnival Discover Turtle Moray Eels Conservation in GUATEMALA

T H E V I L L A S AT STONEHAVEN

“If you are looking for comfort, leisure and serenity, be sure to stay at the Vil- las at Stonehaven, Tobago. As a ‘Small Luxury Hotel of the WorldTM’, the Villas at Stonehaven are by no means petite in their service to anyone who loves to experience such pleasures. Ideal for group stays, each villa is equipped with a cheer- ful resident housekeeper, allowing a very relaxed atmosphere. Each spacious villa has its own infin- ity pool overlooking the Caribbean Sea, and you can even expect to awaken each morning to the delightful sounds of sing- ing birds and humming birds hovering amongst the trees. Caribbean REEF Magazine’s editorial team can surely attest to the luxury of the Villas at Stonehaven while on assignment for Tobago’s Underwater Carnival.”

~Ife Smenkh-Ka-Ra, Managing Editor Caribbean REEF Magazine

P.O. Box 1079, Bon Accord, Black Rock, Tobago, West Indies. Tel.: +1 (868)-639-0361 Fax: +1 (868)-639-0102 Email : [email protected] www.stonehavenvillas.com Features

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Publisher Caribbean Footprints Publishing Co. Ltd. Marine Life Publication Design & Layout Dive Explored Ife Smenkh-Ka-Ra Copy Editor Hot Spot Cheryl Ng Foon Contributing Writers Raynard Burnside Arielle Aberdeen Laura-Marie Hands Wreck Alana Babb Phone Dives 1 (868) 732.5615

Skype caribbean.reef.magazine

Sales [email protected]

Submitting article ideas, reviews, event postings and other comments , write to: info@caribbean- Reef reefmag.com. Publisher > Entire contents ©2010 Conservation Caribbean Footprints Publishing Co. Ltd. ISSN 2079-6935. Published by Caribbean Footprints Publishing Co. Ltd. P.O Box 3393, Maraval, Trini- dad, W.I. Phone : 1-868-732-5615. Reproduction Awareness Corner in whole or in part without CFPCL permission is prohibited. CFPCL neither endorses nor assumes responsibility of trademark or any content published.

www.caribbeanreefmag.com 5 CONTRIBUTORS Raynard Burnside is a free-diver from Rum Cay, Baha- mas, which has a population of 57. As a young boy growing up, he explored the underwater sea world through many recreational sports and aquatic activities, such as non-competitive free-diving, water polo, free-diving photography, water volleyball, non-competitive spear fishing, underwater hunting other than spearfishing and snorkeling. He studied agribusiness management in his undergraduate work at the University of the West Indies, St. Augustine Campus. He holds an advance Masters degree in Tropical Animal Science and Production. After completing his studies, he took up temporary residence in Trinidad and Tobago where he continues to be involved in his underwater adventures and is now a free- lance writer for Caribbean REEF magazine.

Arielle Aberdeen is a 20 year old Advanced Open Water diver and Trinbagonian resident, fairly new to the world of diving. She is currently stuck on land as she completes her law degree. She is in a love affair with diving, the ocean and yoga while dreaming about combin- ing all three. She is eagerly awaiting semester break when she can get her fins back into the water.

Laura Hands is a 24-year old Marine Biologist from Liv- erpool, UK. She began diving in 2006 and has dived across the world from Indonesia to Madagascar to Tobago in the Caribbean, where she has worked with different conservation groups. She has also been involved with many Sea Turtle conservation groups both in the Caribbean and Latin America. She is currently employed at an aquatics centre in the UK but regularly returns to the Caribbean to visit friends and catch up on some diving.

6 www.caribbeanreefmag.com FULL PAGE ADVERT Message from the Editor Ife Smenkh-ka-Ra

We’re into our 2nd issue already! Here’s what we have in store for you.

Our dive adventures took us into the first ever Tobago Underwater Carnival where we metmany dive and reef lovers from around the Caribbean, US and UK. Carib- bean REEF Mag’s team undertook some wonderful dives which extended from Ar- nos Vale around Buccoo Reef to Stingray Alley on the south side of Tobago.

The oil spill hasn’t left our region un- scathed, so we share with you a poem by Alana Babb which highlights the oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico.

We’re in a moray eel mood for our marine life pages. So enjoy this sea creature from the comfort of your iPad screen maybe?

Our conservation corner allows us to trav- Follow us el to Guatemala to experience turtle conservation efforts by volunteers of ARCAS. Amazing conservation efforts are being made throughout the region and we’re excited to bring them to you.

Happy Diving :^) Ife Smenkh-Ka-Ra Publisher and Managing Editor

8 www.caribbeanreefmag.com

Tobago Underwater Carnival When it comes to dive festivals, few have tempted the Caribbean dive lovers. For this issue, our correspondent, Raynard Burnside takes us into Tobago’s very first Dive Fest.

By Raynard Burnside

Raynard, relaxing before getting wet

Our editor, Ife about to roll for a dive at Stingray Alley, Tobago!

www.caribbeanreefmag.com Tobago Underwater Carnival When it comes to dive festivals, few have tempted the Caribbean dive lovers. For this issue, our correspondent, Raynard Burnside takes us into Tobago’s very first Dive Fest.

By Raynard Burnside took many photos, capturing DIVE HOT SPOT Tobago’s diverse fauna, flora and spectacular bays along or me, Tobago Under- the way. waterF Carnival was fun, sea When I arrived, I felt the ex- and adventure! As a non-diver citement in the air. I was curi- and snorkeller, the experience ous as to what to expect from was definitely thrilling. I arrived my first Dive Festival. Local, in Tobago on Friday evening, regional and international div- and checked in at the elegant ers and non-divers were in at- and exotic Villas at Stone- tendance. There were opening Haven; from there, I went up remarks from the Association of to Extra Divers Tobago where I Tobago Dive Operators (ATDO) registered for the dive festival and Tobago Department of with Master Scuba Diver Markus Tourism representatives. SCU- Raynard, relaxing before Baumgartner who operates in getting wet BAPRO®, one of the sponsors, Crown Point. I had the option gave a presentation on their of taking the shuttle or driving latest dive gear, and show- Our editor, Ife about to roll my rental car to the eastern for a dive at Stingray Alley, cased their latest camera, the Tobago! side of the island to attend the SeaLife® DC 1200 Underwater opening party. Our destination- camera which I got the oppor- Speyside, was a beautiful and tunity to test underwater. I was scenic view, a hour and half given a one-on-one demonstra- drive to the opening party that tion of SeaLife® DC 1200 under- was held at Blue Waters Inn. I water camera by Fraser Purdon

www.caribbeanreefmag.com 11 DIVE HOT SPOT // Tobago Underwater Carnival

into the warm water, I immediately encountered various corals, schools of fish and other aquatic life forms. I photo- graphed lots of underwater sea life forms; some of which I was able to identify were Lettuce Coral, Brain Coral, Fire Coral, Sea Fan, Feather Duster Worm, French Grunt, Yellowtail Par- rotfish, Trumpetfish and Squirrelfish, because of the marine sea life chart in my gift bag. I

(Caribbean Territory Respre- served; I was then presented sentative), which proved with a gift bag, filled with an to be very easy and enjoy- array of resourceful and use- able to use. My network skills ful materials and gadgets. with other attendees were On Saturday and Sunday effective, as I was able to mornings the weather was meet various individuals who clear, the sea was calm and shared breath-taking under- I eagerly awaited some un- water world stories that cap- derwater adventure. Our tured my interest more and boat captain, George of Ex- more. The opening night was tra Divers Tobago, was very not quite over, with expres- friendly and had lots of sea sion of the islands’ Trinbago- stories, filled with adventure, nian steel pan sounds being mystery and suspense. Our played in the background, first dive and snorkel site was drinks and finger foods being Arnos Vale Bay. As I plunged

12 www.caribbeanreefmag.com Dive Hot Spot // Tobago Underwater Carnival into the warm water, I immediately encoun- was able to chat with some of the locals who tered various corals, schools of fish and oth- were also on the snorkelling expedition, as er aquatic life forms. I photo- they gave me a brief history graphed lots of underwater sea “I learnt a lot about of the Bay. life forms; some of which I was sea turtles, espe- On Saturday evening, Linda able to identify were Lettuce cially how to identify and Lynn Laymon of Dive Coral, Brain Coral, Fire Coral, Training Magazine gave infor- Sea Fan, Feather Duster Worm, them” mative and practical dem- French Grunt, Yellowtail Par- onstrations on underwater rotfish, Trumpetfish and Squirrelfish, because photography. Some key areas covered were of the marine sea life chart in my gift bag. I teamwork between the model and photogra-

Discover diving for kids at Rex Turtle Beach Hotel, Tobago

Kids in their ScubaDoRags by CoCo Cheznaynay

Kids even got to test out SCUBAPRO® gear!

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pher, trusting the photographer, re- sea turtles (Hawksbill and Green), specting the model and good com- I’m now able to distinguish between munication. I was enlightened and the two, all thanks to Mrs. Cazabon- ready to put those attributes into Mannette’s interactive turtle iden- p r a c t i c e . t i f i c a t i o n On Sunday session. e v e n i n g , For the M i c h e l l e remain- Cazabon- ing week- Mannette, d a y s , a Turtle there was Conserva- continu- tion Offi- ous scuba cer for Tur- diving and tle Village snorkelling Trust fea- through- tured “Bi- out the ology and s o u t h e r n Conserva- side of tion of Tur- Long Spined Squirrellfish, Photo By : Beverly Speed the island, tles”. Her presenta- boat captain tion was very interactive, allowing George of Extra Divers Tobago not- us to participate in the discussion. I ed that Stingray Alley, Buccoo Chan- learnt a lot about sea turtles, espe- nel and Mount Irvine Wall are great cially how to identify scuba diving sites. There them in Trinidad and “Everyone was was the Discover div- Tobago; only five (5) fascinated by the ing for school kids held species are found in lo- marine life he cap- at the Rex Beach Hotel cal waters , all are en- tured” swimming pool; families dangered and there brought along their kids are only seven to eight species in the who also participated in the under- world! Of the two (2) most common water fashion show in the swimming

14 www.caribbeanreefmag.com Dive Hot Spot // Tobago Underwater Carnival pool. The underwater fashion wear week; I took several shots of the kids was provided by CoCo Cheznay- displaying their underwater fashion nay® (she-nay-nay) Suuz Martines gear while other attendees joined in who added her array of watery the fun. chimera of The turtle b e a u t i f u l watching colored Scu- e x p e r i e n c e baDoRag™. took place in The kids the evening modelled on Grafton their attire Beach; be- and they fore watch- too had the ing the tur- opportunity tles nest, the to test SCU- Save Our Sea BAPRO® kids Turtles (SOS) snorkelling conservation gear during group in To- the try-dive bago core sessions. I member vol- was given unteers and the oppor- staff gave a tunity to test talk on the my photog- organiza- raphy skills tion’s mission, with Seal- Trumpetfish, Photo by : Michael Ludwig scale and ife® underwater cam- scope of their activities eras and apply Lynn and Linda Lay- and on-going research projects. We mon’s practical demonstrations and were also briefed on turtle-friendly Fraser Purdon’s one-on-one use of tips and encounter guidelines. After the SeaLife® DC 1200 underwater the talk, we proceeded to the turtles’ camera that they gave earlier in the nesting area on the beach, where a

www.caribbeanreefmag.com 15 Raynard testing Scubapro ‘s equipment © Ife360

gigantic leatherback turtle was lay- Oswald Williams, highlighting the ing its eggs. At the time, it measured success of Tobago’s first-ever Dive 97 cm in carapace length. I count- Fest. President of ATDO, Alvin Doug- ed up to 77 eggs as it continued lay- las, spoke and shared his experience ing more. It was breathtaking to see of the dive fest. Ty Sawyer showed a such a huge sea animal on shore magnificent presentation on his un- laying several eggs. derwater photography photos. Ev- The closing reception of Tobago’s eryone was fascinated by the marine Underwater Carnival was held at life he captured. The evening closed Liz Sloper, Avion Hercules of Tobago Board of Tour- the Pigeon Point Heritage Park with off with a local steel drum pannist ism, Ife Smenkh-ka-Ra, Managing Editor of Caribbean REEF Mag, Ray Sloper of Seltab Executive Tours remarks from Tobago’s Secretary of starting the partying with a variety of © Raynard Burnside Tourism and Planning, Assemblyman calypso and Caribbean music, with Laying of eggs by Leatherback turtle Try dive of Scubapro © Ife360 © Raynard Burnside Photography

16 www.caribbeanreefmag.com Dive Hot Spot // Tobago Underwater Carnival

an all-inclusive open beach BBQ and bar drinks. As I networked, everyone shared how they all look forward to Tobago underwater dive festival 2011!!!

Fraser Purdon of Scubapro © Raynard Burnside

Liz Sloper, Avion Hercules of Tobago Board of Tour- ism, Ife Smenkh-ka-Ra, Managing Editor of Caribbean REEF Mag, Ray Sloper of Seltab Executive Tours © Raynard Burnside

www.caribbeanreefmag.com 17 T u r t l e C o n s e r v a t i o n CONSERVATION CORNER CONSERVATION in Guatemala www.caribbeanreefmag.com By LAURA HANDS T u r t l e C o n s e r v a t i o n in Guatemala

www.caribbeanreefmag.com 1919 Conservation Corner // Turtle Conservation in Guatemala

has branched out into many different aspects of conservation including education and the marine turtle conservation site. The turtle hatchery is situated in Parque Ha- waii on the Pacific coast, a 3-hectare protected area on the beach 7km east from the town of Monterrico and 2km west from the village of Hawaii. The park consists of a large comfort-

Green sea turtle with sunburst, By Idreamphotos

or this issue I would like to discuss the Fwork being done by ARCAS-ASOCIACIÓN DE RESCATE Y CONSERVACIÓN DE VIDA SILVESTRE (trans- lated Wildlife Rescue and Conservation Associa- tion) in Guatemala. ARCAS is a non-profit Gua- temalan (Non-Governmental Organisation) NGO that was formed in 1989 by a group of concerned locals wanting to do something to protect their environment and conserve their ever declining wildlife populations. It was originally set up to build a rescue centre to care for and rehabilitate wild animals that were being confiscated on the black market by the Guatemalan government. Since its establishment, ARCAS has grown and 20 www.caribbeanreefmag.com Conservation Corner // Turtle Conservation in Guatemala has branched out into many different aspects able rancho with volunteer quarters, a sepa- of conservation including education and the rate volunteer house, kitchen, bathrooms and marine turtle conservation site. a library/office. There are plenty of exhibits The turtle hatchery is situated in Parque Ha- inside the rancho to educate both the tourists waii on the Pacific coast, a 3-hectare protect- and local people about the threats to the lo- ed area on the beach 7km east from the town cal environment. There is also crocodile and of Monterrico and 2km west from the village of iguana captive breeding on-site behind the Hawaii. The park consists of a large comfort- main rancho building. A mere one hundred

Hawksbill turtle, By Greg Amptman

www.caribbeanreefmag.com 21 A little bit of Laura’s stay in Guatemala volunteering with ARCAS

New Olive Ridley hatchling ready for release

A hatchling heading out to sea

22 www.caribbeanreefmag.com A little bit of Laura’s stay in Guatemala volunteering with ARCAS Hawaii beach where collection happens

Bag of turtle eggs ready for their new nest Laura digging a new nest site

www.caribbeanreefmag.com 23 Conservation Corner // Turtle Conservation in Guatemala

metres away on the beach is the turtle ness) during nesting season. The best hatchery, turtle hospital and educational situation occurs when the turtle is ob- tanks containing baby turtles. served nesting and eggs can be collect- The Parque Hawaii site was established ed easily without causing stress to the in 1993 to help improve turtle population animal and with minimum damage to the numbers after a swift decline. Despite eggs. It can be quite exhilarating racing their endangered status, virtually all poachers to the turtle and claiming it as turtle nests in Guatemala are raided of your own. The sight of a female turtle their eggs. The local people believe that laying its eggs is one of the most memo- turtle eggs have aphrodisiac qualities so rable moments of my life, especially on consid- the oc- er them casions a deli- where I c a c y . was able ARCAS to place runs the my hand m o s t under- produc- n e a t h tive of her to the 21 c a t c h hatch- the eggs eries in ( a n d Gua- w a r m t e m a l a m u c u s ) with an as she average laid. In- of 40,000 Olive Ridley and Leatherback credible! When local egg collectors/ sea turtle eggs rescued every year. poachers get to the turtle first, they are This accounts for about 50% of all turtle expected to give a 10% donation of all eggs collected in Guatemala. collected eggs to ensure the continua- Turtle eggs are collected by volunteers tion of the population. All eggs are then walking in small teams along the beach reburied in the secure hatchery and for anything up to 16km every night around 50 days later the hatchlings re- (personal choice dependent upon fit- appear and are released into the sea 24 www.caribbeanreefmag.com Conservation Corner // Turtle Conservation in Guatemala with the help of the volunteers. I would highly recommend this conser- Community education is a major part vation trip as it was so rewarding. To of the work at Parque HawaiI. ARCAS feel like you have saved hundreds of ensures that economic, social and ed- baby turtles gives you an incredible ucational needs of the community are sense of achievement and a feeling that also met. They realise that for some you are truly helping to save the envi- people the collection and sale of these ronment. The staff and locals are ex- eggs is a major part of their income so tremely friendly and it is an extremely without it they would suffer to survive. beautiful place to stay in.

Hawksbill turtle cruising above coral reef © Mark Doherty

Therefore as part of the programme, Although ARCAS is a conservation they offer egg collectors the chance to group it is indirectly associated with sell their eggs to the hatchery therefore diving and reefs, I feel it is important to enabling the survival of the turtle eggs include sea turtles in this magazine as along with providing the local commu- they are an extremely important aspect nity with a source of income. of life on the coral reef and spend the

www.caribbeanreefmag.com 25 Conservation Corner // Turtle Conservation in Guatemala majority of their lives there. So whether you are a diver or not you can still fully “I would highly rec- enjoy the good work of helping out a ma- ommend this conser- rine animal. If you would like to become vation trip as it was involved in this programme please visit www.arcasguatemala.com for more infor- so rewarding” mation.

www.caribbeanreefmag.com 27 Conservation Corner // Turtle Conservation in Guatemala

28 www.caribbeanreefmag.com www.caribbeanreefmag.com 29 REEF AWARENESS // Lion of the Sea Oil...Spilled

It started as a leak and turned into a spill From the Gulf of Mexico it flowed until It gushed into parts of America As well as Panama City in Florida Resulting in a lack of warm tropical breeze For life on earth, save our Caribbean seas

This greasy substance is adversely affecting the rich biodiversity Of our Caribbean countries Oil being burned Pelicans and birds are under threat in an attempt to Sea turtles are quite upset ‘kill’ the oil spill The contaminated water will spread disease © Kris Krug For life on earth, save our Caribbean seas

The fishes can’t survive in this polluted water Soon their marine life will be over The chocolate-brown blanket of oil Has caused much pain and toil This flow of oil must cease For life on earth, save our Caribbean seas

By ALANA BABB Oil covered pelicans found off the Louisiana coast and affected by the BP Deepwater 30 www.caribbeanreefmag.com Horizon oil spill © heeavenmelee Mark Dodd, wildlife biologist from Georgia’s Depart- ment of Natural Resources, surveying oiled sargas- sum in the Gulf of Mexico. © Georgia Department of Natural Resources.

One of 10 heavily oiled Kemp’s Rid- ley turtles recov- ered © NOAA, National www.caribbeanreefmag.coOcean mService31 MORAY EELS By ARIELLE ABERDEEN

A brightly coloured and spotted Golden Tail Mo- ray Eel eyes us from the coral reef. By Debrorah Coles 32 www.caribbeanreefmag.com tures averaging around 3 m in length, with individuals growing up to be larger. s you swim near a Their dorsal fins extend from rockA crevice, you suddenly the back of their heads and notice this snake-like head, are joined with their caudal with small beady eyes and and anal fins, with no pec- a mouth which opens and toral and pelvic fins. They closes menacingly, peeping have a narrow head, small through a rock crevice, eyes beady eyes, a strong jaw, glued to you. Congratula- and a full set of sharp teeth. tions! You have just seen our These physical characteris- marine creature of this issue, tics give them their anacon- the Moray Eel, which be- da-like appearance. They longs to the are nocturnal, family of Mu- “Despite their men- consume fish- r a e n i d a e . acing and intimi- es and crusta- These mys- dating appearance, ceans and like terious crea- these are relatively warm waters; tures are the they are found snakes of shy and harmless mainly in the the ocean. creatures” tropics, near There are reefs and make over 200 species, with the rock crevices and small Green Moray Eels (Gym- caves their homes. nothorax funebris) and the Despite their menacing and Spotted Moray Eels (Gym- intimidating appearance nothorax moringa) being and aura, these are rela- the most visible in the Carib- tively shy and harmless crea- bean, especially while div- tures. By that I mean they ing in Tobago. won’t attack divers, unless LIFE EXPLORED MARINE Moray eels are provoked or we invade their thick, elongated crea- habitats. So proceed with www.caribbeanreefmag.com 33 MARINE LIFE EXPLORED // Moray Eels caution when swimming near any open- up to 30 m in depth, have a green-yellow- ings. If bitten, seek medical attention im- ish appearance. I have encountered two mediately since their bites can become of these magnificent creatures, while div- infected. They can usually be observed ing in Tobago: in Man-Of –War Bay, Char- safely from a distance, usually peeking lotteville and the other, a local legend through the opening of their dwellings, and called Tyson, in Pirate’s Bay. Tyson’s name- rarely come out fully. But have no fear as sake is fitting - he is huge! My dive buddy threateningly opening and closing of their and I were pleasantly surprised when we mouths, revealing their sharp teeth, is a stumbled across his path, for his reputa- harmless movement to aid in respiration. tion made us curious to see him up close. The Green Moray Eel which averages This 8-foot giant is known to be generally around 2.5 m in length and can be found harmless towards divers. However, on that

Single spotted moray eel with open mouth emerg- ing from coral reef of caribbean island of Bo- naire, Dutch Antilles By Debra James

34 www.caribbeanreefmag.com MARINE LIFE EXPLORED // Moray Eels up to 30 m in depth, have a green-yellow- ish appearance. I have encountered two of these magnificent creatures, while diving in Tobago: in Man-Of –War Bay, Char- lotteville and the other, a local legend called Tyson, in Pirate’s Bay. Tyson’s name- sake is fitting - he is huge! My dive buddy and I were pleasantly surprised when we stumbled across his path, for his reputa- tion made us curious to see him up close. This 8-foot giant is known to be generally harmless towards divers. However, on that

Single spotted moray eel with open mouth emerg- ing from coral reef of caribbean island of Bo- naire, Dutch Antilles By Debra James

A pair of moray eels search for food among a pile of clay pots in the cargo hold of a sunken ship By Centrill

www.caribbeanreefmag.com 35 MARINE LIFE EXPLORED // Moray Eels dive, when we accidently encoun- in me but it was a good reminder tered him, a staring match erupt- that while moray eels don’t attack ed between us for a full minute, as divers unless provoked, caution is he kept charging towards us, be- needed whenever you encounter fore finally making a threatening them and they are best observed circle around us and disappearing at a comfortable distance between back into his home. Needless to both parties. say, some fear was instilled with-

Spotted moray eel By John Anderson

36 www.caribbeanreefmag.com MARINE LIFE EXPLORED // Moray Eels

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