3N20 (3220) 2030 FE 5120 9.95 • 2Y51 FE 6320 6.95 ZP11 ... $129.50 FE 6820 7.95 Y481 6.95 ZP15 ... $122.50 Y482 6.95 Y588 7.50 ZP26 ... $206.50
Crystal inserting tool with eleven double-sided concave A Word About FREE Pricing ... Information Available fixtures for inserting round high We try to meet or * Quartz Movements * dome crystals. beat all advertised * Crystals & Fittings * ZP15 Crystal inserting tool with prices and specials. * Resale Merchandise * If you see a move * Findings * Stones * fifteen straight wall fixtures (gents ment advertised for • Tools & Supplies * less, please check and ladies) for closing case backs with us - we may and for fitting tension ring crystals. even be lower. Esslingers "The Movement Replacement ZP26 A combination of the ZP11 Originators" and the fifteen straight wall fixtures. )~!!~~~~1iL~~-Mi ' YhN< : ' ~ :~ : ~ ~f; National Wats: 800-328-0205; MN Wats: 800-392-0334; FAX: 612-452-4298; Inquiries-Info: 612-452-7180 ~: . --. Esslinger & CO. Ill ~ P.O. Box 64561; St Paul, Minnesota 55164 Serving The Trade Since 1923 ;h:G,-- , ·-·-·-·-· _-· -·1 - ~ 6~ ~,edallion Drive, St. P~N~l : , . ~~ -o~~120 VOLUME 14, NUMBER 6 JUNE 1990
TM HOROLOGICAL
Official Publication of the American Watchmakers Institute
ROBERT F. BISHOP 2 PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE JOE CROOKS 6 BENCH TIPS Needlepoint 12
HENRY B. FRIED 8 QUESTIONS & ANSWERS Tiffany Chronograph Repeater
ROBERT D. PORTER 12 WATCHES INSIDE & OUT A Hamilton 982 An Interesting HENRY B. FRIED 20 SELF-WINDING WATCHES The Lecoultre 916 An Automatic Wrist Alarm Calendar Old Timelock
JOHN PLEWES 24 HUYGENS SYSTEM
JOHN A. NAGLE 28 HODGE PODGE LODGE 32 Don't Be Left Speechless
WES DOOR 30 SHOP TALK Sleeves
DAVID A. CHRISTIANSON 32 YALE & TOWNE TIMELOCKS Tools & Skills
JAMES ADAMS 36 NOVICE WATCHMAKER Balance Complete Required When ARCHIE B. PERKINS 38 TECHNICALLY WATCHES Antique Watch Restoration, Part LIV Sawing & Filing MARSHALL F. RICHMOND 44 PICKLE BARREL A Beginner's Course in Jewelry Crafting and Repair - Sawing 44 HENRY B. FRIED 46 BOOK REVIEW The History of Clocks and Watches Horological Hints and Helps Clocks and Watches, American, European and Japanese Timepieces DEPARTMENTS JERRY M. FUGICH 47 International Wristwatch Up Front/4 FRED S. BURCKHARDT 48 ROCK QUARRY AWi Bench Courses/10 A "Tip" On A Friend Bulletin Board/18 Ask Huck/37 Association News/49 HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSN0145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American New Products and Literature/50 Watchmakers Institute, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211, for $40.00 per year ($4.50 News in the Trade/52 per copy in the United States and $50.00 per year; $5.50 per copy outside the U.S.). Second class Classified Ads/53 postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Dates to Remember/56 Advertisers' lndex/56 OFFICE HOURS: Monday through Friday 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM (Eastern Standard Time). Closed on all national holidays. AWi HOTLINE: (513) 661-4636 (24-hour recording), FAX: (513) 661-3131. George Daniels OHOROLOGICALN™ Henry B. Fried * FELLOWS * Josephine F. Hagans *Orville R. Hagans DCJ[Jnl) OF THE AMERICAN u Gerald G. Jaeger Robert A. Nelson EXECUTIVE AND EDITORIAL OFFICES WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE Hamilton E. Pease Milton C. Stevens AWi Central Marvin E. Whitney P.O. Box 11011 *Deceased 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 Telephone: (513) 661-3838
Milton C. Stevens: Co-Editor Michael P. Danner: Co-Editor Regina Stenger: Associate Editor Harold J. Herman: Senior Technical Editor here may be those who believe that the president of an organization is the person Donna Baas: Production Director T who makes it work. This is far from the truth. While it is true that the President and Board of Nancy Wellmann: Business Manager Directors are legally responsible and give direction Margie M. Brater: Circulation Manager to AWl's operation, the people who really make it Mildred Howard: Circulation work are the employees at AWI Central. Milton C. Stevens is the executive secretary. He is responsible for the overall management of AWI TECHNICAL EDITORS: operations, specializing in educational and technical services. He is co-editor of Horological Times and is - James Adams Wes Door responsible for the editorial content. He has been with / AWI for 24 years and has been an innovative, creative Robert F. Bishop Henry B. Fried leader and a steadying force through all the changes of officers and directors. James H. Broughton Ewell D. Hartman Michael Danner, administrative director, is in charge of the total business Fred S. Burckhardt Robert A. Nelson operations and the day-to-day financial managment. He is co-editor of Horological Charles Cleves Archie B. Perkins Times, specializing in advertising and financial management. He has been with AWI Steven G. Conover Marshall F. Richmond for 12 years and has a banking background. The pleasant voice you hear most often when you call the office belongs to Joe Crook.s Marvin E. Whitney Nancy Wellmann. In addition to answering the phone, Nancy is the secretary in charge of all routine correspondence, booking workshop space, billing and accounts receivable, AWi OFFICERS: and a wide variety of office and secretarial duties. She has been with AWi four years. Margie Brater, an 11 year veteran, is the records specialist. She processes new members, keeps individual records up to date, addresses the magazine and other member Robert F. Bishop, CEWS: President ship mailings, handles shipment of books and materials, and does billing and crediting. Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CEWS: Vice President Mary ansalone has been with us only a year and already has many duties James Adams, CMW: Secretary including making seminar arrangements, reservations, and works with our audio-visual Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMC, FAWI: Treasurer library, certifications and correspondence courses, as well as other office and secretarial duties as needed. Our newest employee is Barbara Heyob. She is a data entry clerk, a very AWi DIRECTORS: important position because our computers are no better than the information entered. We now have a full-time librarian, Nancy Danner. She has worked for AWI James H. Broughton, CEWS part time since junior high school when she helped out her father, Milt Stevens. She Fred S. Burckhardt is also a technical information specialist and computer programmer. Currently she is Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CEWS entering our library into our computer using a custom program that will allow us to retrieve information better than ever before. Henry Frystak, CMW The excellence of the Horological Times can be attributed not only to Milt Ewell D. Hartman, CMW and Mike, but also to Regina Stenger and Donna Baas, both eight year veterans. Regina Gerald G. Jaeger, CMW, CEWS, FAWI is associate editor and production and art director. She is also involved in graphic arts, Donald R. Loke design development, publication specialist, typesetting and paste-up, as well as adver tising sales and development. Robert L. Macomber, CMC Donna Baas is a production specialist, camera technician, and is also involved Ben Matz, CMW in art design, layout, paste-up, and typesetting. Together they are helping put out a Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CEWS, FAWI first-class magazine. Marshall F. Richmond, CMW Harold J. Herman is senior technical editor and is on call to make sure the magazine is technically correct. He has served AWi in many capacities for 13 years. In addition to these fine people, we have a group of part-time employees: Paul D. Wadsworth: Affiliate Chapter Director Betty, Thelma, Molly, Shannon, and others who are on call when needed. Jim Lubic: Research & Education Council Director We are proud of our staff, and AWI is growing every day because of them. William Biederman, CMW: Past President
Milton C. Stevens, FAWI: Executive Secretary Michael P. Danner: Administrative Director
Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without per· mission from the American Watchmakers Institute. Copy. right ©1990 by the American Watchmakers Institute. ON THE FRONT: Fireweed by the roadside in Alaska. Slide by B.E. Lane of San Diego, CA.
2 Horological Times/June 1990 •••cleaning watcfutarts ====.-=..-=..-=...-=...-=....-:_-_-_-_-_-__-:-_ with the 11MPO 400
o other system cleans watch and Nclock parts as efficiently or effectively as l&R' s TEMPO 400. There is no need for disassembly because this system features four separate jars for varied cleaning, rinsing and drying procedures. The l&R TEMPO 400 has been the industry standard and remains the 'state of the art' cleaning system for all small parts. Comes complete and fully assembled including baskets, small parts basket multiple inserts, multi-parts holder inserts, divider partition and cover.
. .. the only competition we have is ourselves.
L&R Manufacturing Company 577 Elm Street, Kearny, New Jersey 07032 USA (201) 991-5330 Fax: (201) 991-5870 Out of state: 1 (800) LR CLEAN
June 1990/Horological Times 3 by lowering the quality of watches. Today many watches three years old do not have enough plating left on the cases to polish. When was the last time you saw a new gold-filled UP FRONT or stainless steel case? In many cases a new quartz movement costs about the same as a circuit or a coil. The manufacturers The Retail Jeweler Stresses ... have priced parts high enough to discourage repairs and to encourage new watch sales. Too many times a watch five Quality When Selling Diamonds vears old is declared obsolete and parts are not available. Cheapest Price When Selecting Repairers • The watch owner is part of the problem. Everyone has a treasure, but no one wants to pay a fair price for a re n our area of the country it seems that anyone who pair or restoration. I know of examples where one watch has has taken the back off of a watch goes into the been to five or six different locations for estimates, and since "repair business" when they retire or get laid off. the stores are very reluctant to charge for estimates, the watch I can't Icount the number of times I've heard "just to pick owner will continue to shop for price. Every time a store loses up some extra money" from these "repairmen," many of a repair job, they feel that the repair costs are too expensive whom will undercut the prices of the professional repair shop and start looking for lower costs. Try to get a store to accept or department and wreak havoc on the reputation of all in the a 6-month warranty. Their response is, "We've always given industry. They don't worry about modern up-to-date equip a year's warranty on repair." ment nor about a parts inventory. They will go to the local Many years ago the FTC denounced business or parts house to buy one stem, one crown, and two springbars, ganizations for publishing price surveys of its members. Yet engage in some conversation, and generally waste the counter everywhere we turn we see price fixing, from the petroleum person's time while the legitimate watchmaker's order waits industry to auto mechanics' flat-rate manuals. Still we can't to be filled . or won't do price surveys and establish minimum guidelines. When these people run into a problem they think I love working on watches and take pride and care nothing of calling the practicing watchmaker for advice, or in my work, but I couldn't, in clear conscience, recommend worse, just drop in so you can use your equipment to run this profession to anyone expecting a decent and reliable tests for them. income. I fear that message is even hidden in the Horological The retailer who will emphasize quality to a diamond Times, where a monthly feature on jewelry work is published customer looks for the cheapest watch repair. In this area, as a way to enhance our income. "to control costs," some stores and chains have sponsored Sorry for the pessimism, but to quote W.C. Fields, people for admission to the U.S., quickly trained them, "There comes a time in the life of every man when he must and have them working for a little more than minimum wage grab the bull by the tail and face the situation at hand." while they gain experience and knowledge. Richard L. Meador The watch manufacturers are hurting the industry Akron, OH ur:::m
• CRYSTAL GRINDER ...... $237.50
• F-BLK-50 ASS'T - 1 GROSS FLAT UNFINISHED TEMPERED BLANKS (1 mm. flat in variety of shapes) ...... $171.50
• RG-1 ASS'T 1 GROSS REGULAR BLANKS (inside height with no walls) ...... $205.00
• VIDEO TAPE FITTING GLASS WATCH CRYSTALS ...... $29.50 $643.60 SPECIAL PRICE TO INCLUDE ALL OF THE ABOVE ...... $550.00 In addition, each system includes a Vernier Gauge, Crystal Cement, practice crystals/bezels, and finished and blank crystal catalogues. ORDER FROM YOUR WATCH MATERIAL WHOLESALER
AMERICAN PER FIT CRYSTAL CORP. 653 Eleventh Ave. New York , NY 10036
4 Horological Times/June 1990 ZANTECB'S QUARTZ WATCH ANALYZER Look to Zantech For Quality Instruments and Helpful Service!
The ZA-900A Quartz Watch Analyzer was designed by Zantech's engineering staff, in conjunction with their expert quartz watch tech nicians, to produce a test instrumentthat is user friendly. There are no complicated connections. The hook-up cable system and the test selection buttons are color coded for easy operation. Zantech prides itself on making sure that every ZA-900A owner knows how to use the instrument to its utmost potential. In addition to the clearly written and illustrated instructions, an unlim ited telephone hotline is available to answer all technical questions and help solve quartz watch repair problems. The ZA-900A Video Tape is also available on loan, upon request Call Gregory Zanoni at (609) 586-5088. ZA900A ••••••••••••••.•••••••••.•••••••••••.•••• $995 (Test Probes and Video Tape Included)
Instructions Learn How Easy Quartz Available on loan, at no cost! Watch Repair Can Be This video tape demonstrates the numerous quartz With the ZA9r.XJA watch test procedures possible with the Quartz Watch Analyzer, Model ZA-900A. Discover how the ZA-900A Quartz Watch Analyzer will become your most valu able piece of test equipment. The VHS or BETA tape can be played on any home VCR. (25 minutes)
Clean Quartz Movements in Just 6 Seconds! Most quartz movements stop running or run slow because the oils in the pivot holes dry up and restrict the wheels from turning. By spraying the QUARTZ CLEAN solvent into the gear train, you can clean the pivot holes without disassembling the gear train. Cleaning has never been easier until now_ To clean a quartz movement, spray QUARTZ CLEAN solvent into the gear train through pivot holes and both sides of the main plate for a total of about 6 seconds with high pressure air. "The Solution The movement is clean, ready for recasing. for Cleaning Quartz Watch Choosing the Appropriate QUARTZ CLEAN KIT: Movements" •Propellant Kit: Recommended for medium volume users that need a quiet and totally portable system. This kit includes everything required for efficient cleaning of quartz movements. Quartz Clean Airbrush Propellant Kit - QC-250P..... 139.95 •Compressor Kit: Recommended for the large volume users. The most economical system for cleaning quartz movements ever developed. Freon air propellant not required. Quartz Clean Airbrush Compressor Kits - QC-355C (Compres90I' included) ..... $214.95 QC-150C (Compressor NOT included) .•••• $135.95
•Quartz Clean Aerosol: Recommended for watchmakers cleaning small quantities of quartz m 1vements. Also for the clockmaker cleaning small clocks and spot cleaning grandfather and larger clocks. Quartz Clean Aerosol (16 oz. can) QC-16 •••••$9.95 Call for Summer 1990 Catalog Call Greg Zanoni for more details.
ORDERSONLY (800)441-7569 AL HOT LINE (609) 586-5088 ~ - Prices and availability sub1ect to change without notice. Minimum order $15.00. SEND YOUR TIPS TO: Jingle Joe, AWi Central, r>enc.h Tips 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211.
Joe Crooks
I Needlepoint
This tip is from Henry B. Fried, A WI's Technical Director, Yeah, Henry, I get the point! You say you never saw of Larchmont, New York. a "homemade" oiler made from a needle? Now think back you know with all the instructing, teaching, and workshops you have conducted through the years, there had to be some poor watchmaker there with a set of homemade needle oilers. ile on vacation at my sister's in the Tampa area, I I'll bet you had forgotten it, but it was back there in your Woverhauled all her mechanical clocks with tools left subconscious mind. over from her watchmaking days at Benrus years ago. I managed I thought all dip oilers were handmade 'ti! I was in well enough, but when it came time to oil the pivots of these chronometer school at the Navy Yard in D.C. dun"ng WWII. timepieces, there was no oiler with which to apply the lubri There I saw my first "store-bought" dip oiler that some cants which I had been supplying her regularly. Yankee watchmaker had, along with every kind of homemade Noticing a package of sewing needles which she ones you could conceive of (yes, some were made from seems to be using a lot, I got an idea (maybe it's old to others, needles) . . . although the manufactured ones had a more but it's new to me). I would use the needles to apply oil. tailored look than our selfmade ones. The needle oilers and However, you know that the points only cause the lubricant my design fed the oil from the oiler to the pivot much more to climb up away from the needle point. So I ground down the uniformly. eye section to have the eye open and present a two-pronged appearance. Putting the point into a pegwood end, I used the j~ ··: f crescented part of the needle eye to pick up oil from the oil cup and I applied it to the pivots. The result was just fine. The oil transferred nicely; the prong allowed it to straddle the pivots without slipping away. The small needles held just the right amount of oil. For the alarm clocks, cuckoo clocks, and the pen When I was an apprentice trying to make my first dulum clocks, I used the largest needle. It too worked fine_ dip oiler, I found out all about capillary, attraction, action, So here is my tip. With an assortment of needles, a practical surface tension (or whatever you want to call it) with oil on use can be made to oil various sized pivots. Their very sharp different shapes of metal. I was amazed that capillary force on points allow them to be pushed into pegwood ends, and in oil could be greater than the pull of gravity. My first pointed various sizes one can have a full, versatile set of oilers. Get the tip showed me how the oil would scoot from the tip to a wider point? place up the shank or some place concave. The quickest and easiest way to make efficient dip oilers is with different sizes of spring brass wire. Smack the tip of the wire with a flat punch on a flat stump on the staking tool This will make a thin parallel paddle on the tip. Dress the tip square, then dress the sides with just a little bit of taper back towards the shaft. Drill a small hole 2/3 towards the tip and split from the hole to the tip with a razor blade. This dip oiler feeds almost like a fountain pen. Keep the oil in your oil cup shallow enough that the shank of the oiler doesn't dip in the oil and you will have a controlled amount for each dip. Heck, Henry, with hypo needles, tubes, and auto matic oilers we now use, I've forgotten all about dip oilers and I think you 're needling me . . . I'm going to use your tip anyway, because your drawings sure are pretty! (You ever think about taking a course in art?) 'ULIB
6 Horological Times/June 1990 ULTRASONICS /J
PC-3 T-98 w/HEATER T-148 w/HEATER List $125.00 List $305.00 List $412.00 s35goo SALE ..... s10500 SALE ..... s25000 SALE ..... PC-3 Basket .. . .. S23.00 T-9B Basket . ... . S39.00 T-14B Basket .... S49.00
SOLUTIONS
JEWELRY CLEANER CONCENTRATE List$7.85 pint .. •• .. $675 #111WATCH list$33.85gal . .. • $2560 CLEANING SOLUTION NOFOME Specify ammonlated or List$19.45gal. s1750 List$17.80gal. s1aoo non-ammonlated SALE . . gal. SALE . . gal.
ELLANAR HOME CARE PRODUCTS Buy 36 - We'll give you the gross price!
8 oz. JEWELRY 8 oz. DELUXE 8 oz. SILVER 8 oz. PEARL CLEANER JEWELRY CLEANER JEWELRY CLEANER 11 oz. SILVER DIP CLEANER us1$11.1sdoz. ust'22.50doz. ~975 ust'24.oodoz. us1'2aoodoz. list$24.60doz. ~975 SALE .. doz. s1550 SALE . . doz.• 1 SALE . . doz. s1915 SALE . doz. S2625 SALE .. doz."" I FREE! ASK FOR OUR NEW FINDINGS~TOOL AND DASON RING CATALOG
June 1990/Horological Times 7 Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, * FNAWCC
Tiffany Chronograph Repeater
Enclosed is a set of photographs a foul-up, my normal source reported evident from Mrs. Pritchard's report. of a pocket watch that my that they didn't have the Swiss patents. It is a beautiful and very desirable item. Q customer would like to have I then tried my oft unfailing source, Henry B. Fried identified. I would appreciate any history Kathy Pritchard, and as usual she came you could supply, such as the age, manu up with the following information. facturer, rarity, etc. The Swiss patent 24,118 is The photographs are of a Tiffany horological. It was issued 4 July 1901 one minute chronograph repeater. The to E. Koehn, Geneva, for a chronograph movement serial number is 78384; counter mechanism. That would fit a Swiss patent number 24118. The case minute repeating chronograph, and I is an 18K yellow gold, open face, double wouldn't be surprised if Tiffany bought back type. The watch is in absolute from Koehn. Edouard Koehn had been a extra fine to mint condition. Everything partner in Patek Philippe. He left it to is in perfect functioning order. The dial buy out HR. Ekegren in 1891, and kept was not pulled to show the repeater Ekegren on as Chief of Manufacture. mechanism. I hope the photos taken They specialized in complicated pieces. will be sufficient. I've got notes on a minute repeater Robert M. Dearmin split second chronograph watch made Santa Rosa, CA by Ekegren for Tiffany & Co. and an Ed. Koehn minute repeater chronograph I tried to trace your patent made for J.E. Caldwell & Co. that is on the very fine watch -Kathy Pritchard A shown in your photos. Due to The details and its quality are
8 Horological Times/June 1990 Borel Quartz Crown Assortmen Borel has assembled the 45 most common dustproof and waterproof types used on today's quartz watches, which SWISS require smaller sizes and taps. Includes diameters: 2.50, 2. 75, 3.00, 3.25, 3.50, 3. 75 and Taps 10, 11, 12 & 13 MADE This new updated assortment includes tap 13 sizes, more WP sizes and more tap 12 crowns than previous assort ment. 1 each yellow and white of 40 numbers, 60 bottle .Hur cl plus 5 Blue Stone Crowns, yellow only. Total of 85 Crowns, in 60 bottle cabinet. No other replacement crown approaches Borel Crown in quality, looks or effectiveness. Borel Crowns are made by the top Swiss producer of crowns for new-watch production. Borel stocks the complete range Newly updated of sizes, styles, types, tap sizes, post lengths, and tube openings. You'll find exactly the crown you need. 751/2 Asst. sgo Design Tap10 Tap11 Tap12 Tap13 Dustproof Type 2.75mm • 652/10 652/11 652/12 3.00mm • 656/10 656/11 656/12 3.25mm • 660/10 660/11 660/12 660/13 3.50mm • 664/10 664/11 664/12 3.50mm • 666/10 666/11 Diameter Tube Post Design Tap10 Tap11 Tap12 Tap13 Waterproof Type 2.50mm 1.50mm Flush • 752/10 752/11 752/12 752/13 2.75mm 1.60mm Flush • • 754/10 754/12 3.00mm 1.60mm Flush ~ e 756/10 756/11 756/12
3.00mm 1.80mm Flush a e 758/10
3.25mm 1.80mm Flush l[l]]) e 760/10 760/11
3.25mm 1.60mm Flush lliiiiiiill e 762/10 762/11 3.50mm 1.80mm Flush lllllilJ e 764/10 764/11
3.50mm 1.60mm Flush llllliiilD e 766/11 766/11 766/12 766/13 Assortment, now, includes 5 Blue Stone Crowns DP 3.00, 3.50mm 2.00mm Flush filIDI • 768/10 768/11 768/12 3.50, 4.00 and WP 3.00, 3.50. 3.75mm 1.60mm Flush miiiiia • 770/10 770/11
Borel has put together this unique assortment of crowns styled as those used on the popular Japanese brand watches: Seiko, Japanese Pulsar, Lorus and Citizen. Includes 47 numbers, most of which are the waterproof type with gasket, diameters from 2.5mm to Style Crown 5.5mm. Total 94 crowns, 1 each of yellow and white of 47 num bers. Refills available. 60 bottle cabinets. Asst. Some of the numbers in the assortment ar,~: J-506-2254 J-25N02 J-35E09 J-30E02 J-35M10 J-40M17 J-506-2614 J-40M32 J-45M30 J-50005 J-35003 J-35N57 951/2 Asst. sgg J-506-2847 J-40M24 J-45001 J-45W29 J-35M82 J-35M68 Jules Borel & Company, 1110 Grand Avenue, Kansas City, MO 64106 National Order Desk - 1 ·800·333-4646; FAX Order 1 ·800·333·4083 Borel & Frei, 712 South Olive, Los Angeles, CA 90014 .ISttrel National Order Desk - 1 ·800·654·9591 .ISttrel Otto Frei - Jules Borel, P.O. Box 796, Oakland, CA 94604 National Order Desk - 1·800·772-3456
June 1990/Horological Times 9 JULY 13-15 Advanced Clock Repair ....••..•...•.Rochester, NV liENCH COt/R~E~ 14-15 Cuckoo Clock Repair ...... • .Chicago, IL AND REGIONAL SEMINARS *14-15 Repair of the Atmos Clock ...... Reno, NV 15 Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair ..Baltimore, MD
AWi is sponsoring bench courses throughout AUGUST 1990 covering the following subjects: 10-12 Advanced Clock Repair ...... Boston, MA 12 Retrofitting, Casing & Coil Repair ...... Portland, ME Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair 12 Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair ..Kansas City, MO Instructor: Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CEWS 12 Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair ..••..Denver, CO Advanced Quartz Watch Repair 12 AWi Northeast Regional Seminar •...... Toronto, Canada Instructor: Robert Bishop, CEWS 15 Retrofitting, Casing & Coil Repair .•...... Springfield, MA *18-19 Repair of the Atmos Clock .....•..•.•.Indianapolis, IN Retrofitting, Casing & Coil Repair Instructor: James Broughton, CEWS 19 Retrofitting, Casing & Coil Repair ...... Rochester, NV 25-26 Cuckoo Clock Repair ...... •.•..Pittsburgh, PA Introduction to Clock Repair Instructor: Roland Iverson, CMC SEPTEMBER Advanced Clock Repair 7-9 Advanced Clock Repair ...•.••••...•.Detroit, Ml Instructor: John Kenyon, CMC 8-9 Cuckoo Clock Repair •...... Trenton, NJ 14 Retrofitting, Casing & Coil Repair ....•...Fargo, ND Repair of the Atmos Clock *15-16 Introduction to the Watchmaker's Lathe.•... Phoenix, AZ Instructor: Gerald Jaeger, CMW, CEWS, FAWI 15-16 400-Day Clock Repair ...... Cincinnati, OH Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair 15-16 Repair of the Atmos Clock ...... •.....Bay Area, CA Instructor: James Adams, CMW, FBH I 16 Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair .•Seattle, WA 16 Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair ...... Baltimore, MD Introduction to the Watchmaker's Lathe Instructor: Jim Lubic 16 AWi South Central Regional Seminar .....•Dallas, TX 19-20 Repair of the Atmos Clock ...... •.•Fresno, CA Cuckoo Clock Repair 22-23 Repair of the Atmos Clock .•...•...... Santa Ana, CA Instructor: James Williams 26-27 Repair of the Atmos Clock ...... Bay Area, CA 400-Day Clock Repair John A . Nagle For a complete listing of Bench Courses through March 1991 please refer to the June '90 mailing envelope. PLEASE NOTE: Courses which are marked with an asterisk (*} are full.
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10 Horological Times/June 1990
Robert D. Porter, CMW
Hamilton 2
he Hamilton grade 982 is a % plate, 14/0 size, 19- while the hands were pulled. The dial screws were backed off jewel, gent's wristwatch movement, circa late 1930s (Figure 4) and the dial removed from the movement. Tor early '40s. Figure 1 shows the dial side and Figure The mainspring was let down and the movement 2 the movement side of this well-made watch. This movement disassembled in the normal manner. Figure 5 shows the bal is housed in a pink 14K gold-filled case. The dial color also ance wheel with its broken upper pivot. Figure 6 illustrates the matches the case and has contrasting white gold hands and location of the hairspring stud and roller jewel in relation to numerals. The 982 had a broken balance staff and also needed certain screws on the balance. A rough sketch was made of cleaning and lubricating. this relationship. It is considered good craftsmanship not to Figure 3 shows how the hands were set to 12 o'clock scratch the balance rim to show the position of the roller and a slotted piece of 35 mm film used to protect the dial jewel or hairspring stud.
Figure 3 Figure 2 Figure 1
Figure 4 Figure 5 Figure 6
12 Horological Times/June 1990 Figure 7 illustrates the balance assembly on a piece of Figures 9, 9A, and 98 show one of the best (Wyler) pithwood prior to inserting a flat-tapered hairspring remover double roller removers and how it works to push the balance (made from an old oiler) into the collet slot to spread the col staff out of the roller while capturing the roller after the staff let very slightly, and then using a twisting motion to lift the is out. It will handle several roller sizes. hairspring off the staff as shown in Figure 8.
Figure 7 Figure 8 Figure 9
Figure 9A Figure 9B WA
I want to buy displays, boxes, catalogs, parts, dials, whole or partial movements and anything else pertaining to Patek Philippe.
Also needed: Boxes for Rolex, Vacheron & Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Movado, Le Coultre, Tiffany, Cartier & Piaget - any age, any condition.
1920-1940 boxes for Gruen, Hamilton, Bulova, or other early wristwatch boxes- mens only for these more common companies.
Always needing movements by Patek Philippe, Piaget, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron & Constantin, Rolex, European Watch & Clock Co., Cartier, especially complicated movements by these companies.
CHARLES CLEVES WANTED - Patek Philippe Member: AWI, NAWCC moonphase calendar. This 319 FAIRFIELD A VE. one pictured: 1969 model, BELLEVUE, KY 41073 paying $15,000 and up. l (606) 491-0354
June 1990/Horological Times 13 Figure 10 Figure 10A Figure 11
Figure 13 ONE
No. 607440 Staff, Balance
GENUINE Hamilton Material
Figure 12
Figure 14
A keenly sharpened carbide graver is removing the staked-over portion of the balance staff in Figure 10. The up the hole in the staking tool that best fits the hub of the bal graver must not touch the arm of the balance during this oper ance staff. The balance wheel was placed into position and a ation. In addition to a sharp graver, good lighting is important staff remover (Figure 12) used to hold the balance arm flat as is a comfortable and relaxed position at the lathe to make against the plate_ This may seem to be redundant because the this operation a success as shown in Figure 10A. When trying staked-over portion of the staff has been removed, but I have this method of staff removal for the first time, it is probably found that it helps to hold everything firm and square while better to practice on several scrap balance wheels before work the staff is pushed out by hand pressure on the punch, or with ing on a customer's watch. a very light tap of the brass-headed hammer. The reason for removing the staked-over portion of Figure 13 illustrates the disassembled 982 in the the balance staff is to avoid ruining the fit of the hole in the cleaning basket after cleaning and drying. One of my ultra balance arm to the new staff. It also saves time in the long run sonic cleaners is a McKenna that does not spin and uses a by reducing the amount of poising and adjusting that must warm air fan to dry the parts. The McKenna operates at one be done if the staff were crudely driven out of the balance. megahertz and still does an excellent cleaning job even after A centering punch is being used in Figure 11 to line 20 years of use.
14 Horological Times/June 1990 Figure 16
Figure 15
A genuine Hamilton staff was found for the 982 as pictured in Figure 14. The new staff is shown in position in Figure 15 and is being staked to the balance wheel with one firm tap of the brass-headed hammer to the flat-faced punch in Figure 16 (no round-faced punch was needed first because of the close fit of the staff and balance wheel). The neatly staked staff and balance assembly shown in Figure 17 is a tribute to the micro-inch tolerance machining capabilities of the Hamilton Watch Co. at the time this watch was manufac tured. Figure 17
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Ju ne 1990/Horological Times 15 Figure 18 Figure 19 Figure 20
In order to see the next operation better, the punch hairspring stud screw while the balance wheel is in a vertical used to stake the balance staff was then inverted in the K & D position (like a Ferris wheel), this allows the hairspring and staking tool and centered in Figure 18. Figures 19 and 20 il stud to "float," thereby seeking its own dynamic level position lustrate the pressing of the double roller onto the staff with and a better rate will result because the hairspring is not biased the roller jewel pointing toward the same space between bal higher or lower than it might be if leveled by eye. The stud ance screws it did originally, according to our sketch. screw is then tightened. Time can be saved by using the movement to test the It is always a pleasure to service one of these "golden truth of flatness and poise of the balance. Figure 21 shows the oldies" such as the Hamilton 982. IJCII3 balance being tested in the flat and round in its own jewels (do not oil the jewels prior to testing as the oil will reduce the sensitivity of the poising test). A hand blower is used to cause the balance to rotate so the trueness of the staking operation can be observed. The movement is turned vertically as illustrated in Figures 22 and 23 to test the poise of the balance, which means that the balance should not display a heavy side falling to the bottom when placed in any vertical position. No correc tion to flatness, roundness, or poise was required. The bal ance assembly was then removed from the watch and the hair spring pressed onto the balance staff (Figure 24) with its stud pointing toward a particular balance screw according to our sketch. The movement was then assembled and lubricated in the normal manner. The positional timing rates were within a Figure 22 few seconds per day of each other in the dial up, dial down, and pendant down (Figure 25) positions after a slight beat adjustment was made. One tip that may be helpful is, while the watch is running in the movement holder, to loosen the
Figure 21 Figure 23
16 Horologi.cal Times/June 1990 Figure 24 WATCH BATTERIES PRICES SLASHED! AS LOW AS -
"' . ·" ·-· Figure 25
I~ No. 362 ...... 30C No. 364 ...... 27C WITSCHI No. 371 ...... 36C No. 377 ················-·--··-····················· ····· 35C '-.../ No. 379 ···························-·······-···········--··· 42C No. 389 ...... 32C No. 392 ...... 21 C No. 397 ·································-·······-·········· 36C No. 399 ...... 38C No. 2016 ...... - ...... 51C
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"Everything For The Watchmaker!" TOLEDO JEWELERS WITSCHI ELECTRONIC AG. a name known throughout the watch industry for making quality time measuring machines is 245 Twenty Third Street pleased to announce the establishment of a sales and service center Toledo, Ohio 43624 in the United States: WITSCHI ELECTRONICS U.S.A., Ltd. Sale ends June 30, 1990! P.O. Box 2 Palmyra, N.J. 08065-0002 24-Hour Toll Free Ordering 1(800) 537-0260 Tel.: 1-800-882-7977 Order Now ... Fax (419) 241-4594 An example of their craft is the Wicometre High Tech (pictured above), which has set new standards for the testing of mechanical watches and clocks.
June 1990/Horological Times 17 STEAM JEWELRY CLEANER BULLETIN Edward Moon, Menasha, WI, is seeking direction for using a steam cleaner. He is particularly interested in what can and OARD cannot be done with the equipment, and what are the safe ty precautions to consider both for the jewelry being cleaned A. NEW REQUESTS and safety precautions for the operator.
COLONIAL CLOCK COMPANY MULLEN'S RUST REMOVER FIVE TUBULAR CHIME Arthur Brown, Memphis, TN, is seeking a source for a Billy E. Young, Dallas, TX, has the colonial clock pictured product known as Mullen's Rust Remover, X3-100. Mr. here which was manufactured by Miller of Germany. It Brown says it is the best product he has ever used, and he has a serial number 4829 and was patented Jan. 12, 1909. cannot seem to locate a source for it. A check of the patent office records developed a "glitch" and we were unable to obtain any patent information on this unit. Mr. Young is seeking the following information: B. RESPONSES I. The chime setting sequences. 2. The weights of the chime and strike trains* NOISY MUSIC BOX 3. The chime notes required. Charles Avellino, Brooklyn, NY, responded to the request *This could easily be determined using the method sugges for information on how to deal with a noisy music box. ted in J.E. Coleman's book. He contacted Black Forest Imports who responded by calling him with this advice. The noise is coming from the cone on the music box. In back of the cone there is plas tic on each strip of the cone. The plastic comes off the cone and makes a noise much like the unit needs oiling. Some clockmakers put the music box in solu tions to be cleaned, and the solution causes the plastic to come off NEVER put the music box in solution that will attack plastic. Once the plastic is destroyed, the music unit will have to be replaced.
NOT SYMPATHETIC VIBRATION Thomas Morgan, Newport, PA, had described a condition in a clock that sounded like a classic case of sympathetic vibration. We referred him to the article J.E. Coleman has in his book on the subject. SURPRISE! This was not the problem; it was magnetized weights. Tom Morgan writes: I had a customer call me because her clock stopped every time the weights got down to the same level as the bob on the pendulum. I found the clock was very sturdy. I took the movement, weights, and the pendulum along home to fur ther investigate the problem. I sat it up on my stand and got it running. When the weights got close to the bob, two of the weights started to swing. The third weight stood perfectly still. I then shifted the two weights from left to right. Instead of the right one standing still, now the left one stood still. I got my compass out and realized two weights indicated strong mag netism. I had a choice of doing one of two things. I could use solder or lead to replace the FOLIOT CLOCK KIT cast iron, or use a degausser coil like the ones Richard Dreibelbis, Fair Lawn, NJ, is trying to find a source TV repairmen use to demagnetize TV screens. for a Foliot Clock Kit (sometimes called a Columbus Clock). I decided to buy a degausser coil for myself, The kits come ready to assemble, requiring little or no work which I did, and it worked perfectly, solving on the part of the assembler. A stone is provided for the the problem. driving weight. We have seen these kits offered from time to I then had a second clock with the same prob time in various hobby-type magazines but fail to recall lem. I used my degausser coil again, and it which. worked perfectly as well. Maybe this informa-
18 Horological Times/June 1990 tion could help someone else having the same problem. Thomas Morgan
CAL VIN KLEIN Carl Kimberly, Barnesville, GA, advises that Calvin Klein case parts, etc. can be obtained from Gruen Marketing Corp., 117 Seaview Dr., Secaucus, NJ 07094.
REPAIR OF HAMILTON ELECTRIC WATCHES We have received responses from a number of readers who repair Hamilton Electric watches so long as no parts are needed. Of course, the 505 usually needs a balance wheel because of the gold contact being worn. No one indicated that they could repair a 505 if the gold contact on the bal ance was worn.
ADDITIONAL RESPONSES We continue to receive responses on a variety of subjects for which we have already reported positive responses. When this happens, we always send the additional responses to the reader making the request.
C. ITEMS STILL NEEDED VIGOR STEAM MACHINE The most modern steam cleaner available today! In CHICAGO SCHOOL OF WATCHMAKING only seconds, the Vigor Steam Machine has all your A recent request made us aware that the Chicago School of jewelry and jewelry trays sparkling clean. 2.4 gallon Watchmaking, last known address Fox River Grove, IL, is tank with .70 gallon refill capacity permits longer no longer at this address. Perhaps it is no longer in ex periods of uninterrupted work flow. Outstanding istence. We would like to know if it has relocated and, if features include: quick heatup, stainless steel outer so, to where? Also, who has the records of the school? By cabinet, uses conventional 120V/60 cycle, pressure records, we refer to the roster of former students of the school. gauge, safety valve, water fill funnel and valve, adjustable thermostat, fill vent, on/off light, True TAP FOR 18 SIZE WALTHAM Mist jet nozzle, and complete operating instructions. Terry 0. Smith, Tucson, AZ would like to know where Maximum operating pressure 85-90 PSI, pounds of to buy, borrow, or rent a tap for chasing banking pin steam per hour 5.2. Measures 14 1/2" H x 1O" D x threads in the plate of an 18 size Waltham. The thread 12 1/2" W. This deluxe model is complete with diameter is about 52.5 thousandths of an inch and there solenoid foot pedal to allow you to keep both hands are about 90 threads per inch. free during the cleaning process. American made and UL and CSA listed. DISTRIBUTOR FOR SANKYO CLOCKS CL-870A ...... •....•. $745.00 James Pickard, Glendale, AZ needs spare parts for a Sankyo ALSO AVAILABLE digital timer model #551. We have been unable to locate the distributor for Sankyo. Regular model with pull chain spring release. CL-875A ...... $689.00 JUNGHANS SPARE PARTS Several of the sources who formerly handled spare parts Please Note: These machines can be for Junghans clocks and watches have disappeared. A shipped UPS! member in Denver, CO specifically is looking for spare parts for Junghans J30E clocks. BOLEY LATHE REPAIR S. (ifaRoSJ'Inc. Paul Jahnke, Monroe, CT is looking for someone in the Worldwide Distributors to Horolouists United States who repairs Boley lathes. 0 '~~ Xls ' l////
Do you have information regarding our requests? Do you 234 Commerce Place, P.O. Box 21208 need information? Write to: Bulletin Board, Horological Greensboro, N.C., 27420, U.S.A. Times, 3700 Harrison Ave., P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, Phone (919) 275-0462 OH 45211. FAX Number 1-800-537-4513
June 1990/Horological Times 19 SELF-WINDING WATCHES
Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, * FNAWCC
THE LeCOULTRE 916 An Auto1natic Wrist Alarm Calendar
rist alarm watches which also include a calendar mechanism need more complicated adjustments; Wnot only must the alarm be coordinated with the hour and minute hand indications, but the calendar indica- tion must also change at midnight. When the watch is automatically wound as well (however, not the alarm) and the vibration count is a fast train of 28,800 times an hour, you need some skill and prior knowledge to service it. LeCoultre's previous wrist alarm automatic winding system used an oscillating weight with restricting bumper LeCoultre 916 movement and dial. springs so that the alarm hammer could strike the case's resonating bar. This meant that the case back had to have anism winds in both directions from gravitational energy a positioning tab and a threaded ring with its attendant limita supplied by the 360° rotor. The ball-bearing axle, around tions. which the rotor pivots, has a large diameter and is hollow. This In the LeCoultre 916, the automatic winding mech- design allows the case's resonating post, which is centrally
TABLE 1 - REPAIR PARTS LIST
100 Pl•to 710 Jewelled pallet fork and staff 7196 Alarm barrel arbor 110 0 721 Balance with flat hairspring, regulated 7198 Alarm barrel, complete (with mainspring) 121 / 30 ~~~~n"~h=!:~~ halrspr f nQ hold•r and shock· 963 .._ Winding stem for waterproof case (case por- 7286 Unlocking wheel protecting devic:o., mounted tion) 7290 Alarm wheel 125 Pt\Jlfet coc~ 1142 Uppnr lxid9e for nutom11tic device 7292 Intermediate unlocking wheel 126 Center whe(:I cock 1143/1 Oscillotlng wnfght .e... mbly 7294 Alarm setting connection wheel 166 (2) Ca$1ng clamp 1429 Double alternating click 7296 Intermediate setting wheel for alarm 180/ 1 1 1447 Driving geat bridee 205 ~~l~,~~e':,,~w~~~:: 'd'ft1f:J. w11h canr)Ort 1480 Windrng,·1JP whieoel 7305 Coupling yoke for alarm setting pfnlon fmentfo.n ha1gfit or cannon plnlDnl 1482/1 Driving gear assembly for ratchet wheel 210 Th1rd wheel alld plrf~n 1555 Bolt for winding-up wheel 7416 Intermediate crown wheel seat for alarm 227 Sweop second wheel aod p1n1on 1660 Bushing for winding·up wheel, upper 255 Hour wheel ror $weep second 1661 (3) Bushing for winding-up wheel, lower 7416 Alarm ratchet wheel 260 Minute wheel Bushing for driving wheel of ratchet wheel, 7425 Intermediate crown wheel core for alarm 307 SPIAOFIN Qi::;;Stoemblv, comple 1.e upper and lower 7428 Intermediate crown wheel for alarm 307/1 1 2535 Date indicator guard 7434 Alarm spring-dick 343 ::;r~~·~1~~~-~~i::1/':1."f.~ ~~~~d:cond 7443/ 1 Alarm setting lever assembly wheel 2542 Double calendar setting wheel 7459 Disconnector 374 HalPSprin9 holdet with parts 378. 5378 and 2556/1 Date indicator driving wheel mounted 7480 Disconnector spring regutato, arhttr'"' moun\ed 7486 Alarm bolt yoke • not ob1aina'ble:1opareUJ1 2557/ 1 Date indicator with transferred figures (state 7496 Alarm bolt 378 exactly the position of the indicator window on 7498 Alarm hammer 380 ~~~~r~~~~=p '"KIF ELASTOR'". upperblock the dial and the orientation of the dial figures In 7654 (2) Bushing for alarm wheel, upper and rower t:ampletu relation with the winding stems) 381 Shocl<"'b"'"'°' "KIF !"lASTOR-. low.,,bloclc 7656 Bushing for alarm hammer, uppM complctle 2575 Date jumper spring 2576 401 Wmdtng ••om Date jumper ~;~l2 (3) ~~ar~~ 'fo~i~~~~%r i dge of ' utomatic device 404 Winding stdm. for w.etetptool Clt50: tmovamen1 3802 (2) Bladespring for shock-absorber Endstone for shock-absorber 51143 (3) Screw for o..,m.,in~ wolg~I panlonl 3803 (2) 51555 Screw for boli of winding-up wheel In-setting for shock~absorber 407 Ch.1 fch w.ht!el 3804 (2) 52535 (3) Screw for dstt!! lndlQ!ltor g.uord 410 5101 (2) Case screw Train wheel bridge screw 414 ~~;:1~~~~1°:0l) t . 5110(4) 52556 Screw for date indicator driving wheel 415 Aatche1 wheol, movomen1 Alarm bridge screw 5125 (6) Balance cock screw 418 Rotcliel wn.. 1 C11P 57151 (3) Screw for unlockins wheel bridge 420 ... Crawn whee.I Pallet cock screw 57428 Screw for intermediate alarm crown wheel 423 ... Crown wheel cor1 Center wheel cock screw 424 tntcrmedusto movement (;town wheel Minute work cock screw Screw for alarm bolt yoke Driving gear bridge screw 57486 (2) 434 CUcking ttpring. movernesit Screw for alarm bolt 435 ... Yol
20 Horologi.cal Times/June 1990 Figure 1 Distributor of Watch Batteries, Manufacturer of Smiles 1143:'1 Low, low prices are not the only reason why our customers are wearing smiles. Swiss made Renata batteries and same day shipping on orders received before 4:00 p.m. have something to do with it, too. If you would like to make your life a little happier, then 1142 give us a call. We'll make a smile just for you!
LUBRICATION r------, .-: Oil for pallets I I (Moebius 941) NOTICE: <• Oil for large wheels :These are our regular prices,: (MoebiLOS 8141) I t •1 • f I ...., Grease for winding mechanism 1 no spec1a pnces. 1 (PML Hamilton) L------~ 317 ...... ••.. $0.65 31.9 ...•...... 0.45 321 •••.•••.•..••• 0.41 A 362 ...•.•.....••• 0.26 364 ....•••...... • 0.25 37D ••.••.••.•..•• 0.39 371 •••.•.••••..•• 0.33 Self-winding Device 377 .....••...... 0.34 379 •••••...•.•••• 0.41. located, to reach down into the movement area with room to spare. The alarm hammer, positioned to strike this post 3~9 •••....••.•... 0.3~ through an opening in the axle tube, emits a satisfactory 391 ••••.•.•.•.••. 0.36 audible noise. Shown first are the LeCoultre 916's movement and 392 ••..••..•..••• 0.24 dial views. Specifications are: casing diameter 30.00 mm, overall height 7.45 mm, alarm, movement is self-winding 395 ..•.•••...... • 0.36 with rotor on ball bearing, direct sweep second, 28,800 beats 396 •...•••.•••••• 0.33 per hour ( 4 HZ), 20-toothed escape wheel, hairspring held by "Spirofix" arrangement with micro-regulator, calendar mech 397 .....•••...... 0.3~ anism, and 17 jewels which include Kif "Elastor" shock absorber. To place an order, or to request a This model should be treated as containing five separate sections: (I) the movement, (2) the automatic wind complete battery price list, call us ing section, (3) the alarm, ( 4) the winding and setting mech toll-free at ansim, and (5) the calendar mechanism. Table I is a list of official number and name desig (800) 634-1070. nations to help you order spare parts and to help you read the figures which follow.
DISASSEMBLY If the case opens from the rear, remove the self winding device first , possibly while it is in the case . If the case is one in which snap-stems are used, you may remove the dial and hands initially to prevent marring the dial. SUPPLIES 425 Livingston Street, Suite #5 SELF-WINDING DEVICE Norwood, NJ 07648 You can remove the self-winding device (Figure I) by unscrewing the three blue screws in the movement (51142). When you have removed the self-winding unit, you can under-
June 1990/Horological Times 21 take releasing the mainspring, but you must leave the driving Figure 2 gear for the ratchet wheel (1482/1) in place with its bridge. To release the mainspring's power, disengage the clock from Dis.qu&-cadr11n de sonnerie Alarm dial disc the ratchet wheel (Figure 1, A) through the aperture in the train bridge. Do this slowly by controlling the winding stem. On movements fitted with split stems for waterproof cases, pull the stem into the setting position and place a wide screwdriver into the slot of the ratchet wheel screw as a LUBRICATION control (Figure 1, B). ...~Oil for large wheels (Moebiu' 8 141) Never open the mainspring barrel. It is sealed and
•Grease for winding mechanism permanently lubricated. When there is a defect in this unit, (PML Hemilton) replace the whole barrel assembly. (Refer to 180/1 in Figure 5.) Next you can remove the calendar mechanism (Figure 2). First lift off the alarm dial disc and then the three screws (52535) for the date indicating guard. Then take out the date indicatirtg guard itself (2535). Now you can take out the date indicator (2557/1). Remove the date jumper sprirtg (2575) and the date jumper (2576). Complete the removal of the calendar parts by removing the screw (52556) and the date indicator driving wheel (2556/1 ). Referring to Figure 3, dismantle the alarm section next. Let down its mainspring power. Control the stem and the click and spring (7434) through an aperture above it in the train bridge. When the two alarm bridge screws (5110) are out, you can lift off the alarm bridge, then the barrel (7198), its ratchet (7418), the alarm hammer (7498), and the alarm wheel (7290). If necessary, you can remove in order: the alarm bolt yoke (7486), and its screw (57486); the alarm bolt (7496) and its screw (57486). The upper left of Figure 3 shows the underside of Calendar Mechanism the alarm bridge, the alarm spring click and screw (7434 and 5434), the intermediate crown wheel for alarm, its seat (7416),
Figure 3 Figure 4
LUBRICATION Oil for large wheels ~ (Moebius 8 141)
I, .,.. Grease for wi nding mechanism IPML Hamilton) 71B2 ~ "''
G> .,.,.
LUBRICATION , Oil for large wheels ~.:.(Moeb iu s 8 141 l
- Grease for winding mechanism ~ WML Hamilt on)
Alarm Mechanism Winding and Setting Device
22 Horological Times/June 1990 the crown wheel core (7425), and the crown wheel screw Figure 5 LUBRICATION (57428). Now! One Diagnostic Machine Incorporates both ... , 1:30 17,997 / H ~ LINEAR GRAPH ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: And '"DEV + 10 SID 18,000 I H ~ DIGITAL READOUT... LCD display provides diagnostic information Introducing for testing mechanical watches and clocks. the New TIMOPRINT NO PAPER REQUIRED FROM 4500 VIBROGRAF "For Over 50 Years - Quality Products, THREE Backed by Dependable Service." PAYMENT PLAN WITH For more intormation~or VIBROGRAF U.S.A. CORP. APPROVED the name of your local 504 Cherry Lane, Floral Park, NY 11001 CREDIT distributor contact: Tel: (516) 437-8700 Fax: (516) 437-8708 June 1990/Horological Times 23 HUYGENS SYSTEM by John Plewes ©1990. All rights reserved by the author. request to fix an old time and strike 30-hour long tician and astronomer. It is undoubtedly an ingenious arrange case clock, with its single weight, is not likely to ment, but in practice it is not noted for smooth, quiet running. A make the average clock repairer shout with joy. To keep the endless driving loop on the spiked These clocks are often very dirty, badly worn, their sprocket pulleys or sprockets, a counterweight is required. This is drive discs adrift and bent out of shape, and their chains either usually a doughnut-shaped ring of lead. A weight, usually useless or missing altogether. During the discussion, the owner of about nine pounds, then provides the driving power. One of the masterpiece may use the word "challenge," with which of the pulleys is on a ratchet to enable winding to occur. you very sincerely agree. Eventually, however, you wade in . One advantage of th is system is that maintaining power is The one-weight-for-two-jobs idea is credited to built in, for power is not removed from the time train during Christian Huygens ( 1629-1695), a notable Dutch math em a- winding. In England, clocks using this system far outnumbered FIGURE 1 TIME STRIKE & WIND HUYGENS SYSTEM INDENT LAND (b) (c) PULL TO WIND COUNTERWEIGHT LINK CLEARANCE GROOVE LAND LAND (d) (a) APX (e) 9 LBS 24 Horological Times/June 1990 the 8-day variety because they were cheaper to make. The clocks have to be wound daily, running for about 30 hours between windings. :.·.-~~;·•·>.«, ' Either rope or chain was used for the loop. The pulleys have spikes, usually six in number, which prevent slippage and so provide drive. The joining of the rope calls for a staggered splice since the double thickness of a normal . ~~'-~f!f3 · splice will not pass between the pulley sides. A disadvantage of rope is that it sheds fibers which, caught in the oil, are '. W,n.othsit~:aeiQetery& :\fal~ii.m'~ief. ~QppJie.!~ detrimental to the lubrication in the movement. Nowadays :7·' ~ · 4$tiW~$1 O'Q1uaibus .Dllve heat-joined plastic rope is sometimes used as a substitute, Tampa, Flotltta 3~602 but the joint is always somewhat of a problem whatever is used. Plastic cable of certain types can be joined by means Super Low Prices ! Untv~I Prfee -Uri!Ver'8.iil P'rlc;e of a heated old knife held horizontally in the vise. Cut a :· : ~ ...... 'J\iumbef EaCh Number Eaeh suitable length of 0.25" diameter braided polypropylene 301 .56 373 .57 rope (not nylon) and bind each end separately to within 3®. :69' 376 ,_58 0.1" of the end to stop it fraying. Run the rope through the 309 .59 3n .41 ... clock, over the sprockets, and through the weight pulley and 313 .55' 37!9 ;56 315 .61 381 .47 the counterweight, in the correct order, and make sure that 317 ;$6. 384 39 the rope is at peace with itself-that it is not stressed or 319 .55 386 .48 twisted. Keeping it that way, stroke the two ends upwards 32-1 ,44 ~ -~ across the hot, opposite sides of the knife so that they meet 323 .52 388 .69 : ~5 ~ ;, .-w 3~ .~ in a molten state above the knife edge and weld themselves 329 .61 390 .49 together. As the joint hardens quite quickly, a good, first-time ·333 (112) 7;:;e 89.1 .41 alignment is essential. It is best to practice on a scrap piece 335 .92 392 .26 of rope before joining the real thing. The idea is to bond 3~ (5_2) 2 , ~ 3~ A3 341 .91 394 .48 every strand without creating a projecting ring of melted 34~ .41 3$5 AO plastic around the joint and to make the joint as short as 344 .68 396 .42 possible, for it is not flexible when set. This method creates 346 .99 397 .4:1 a strong joint which is not easy to break and will pass over 350 .87 399 .41 ~ .64 RENATA the sprockets without jumping or jamming between their side 357 .65 44 8.75 discs. Remove the binding when the joint is satisfactory. 361 .38 750 7.60 There is no such problem in joining a chain, of 362 .39 752 I 7.60 course. With a chain loop, the pulleys have a slightly different 364 28 LITHIUM 365 .85 CR2025 .79 configuration and the spikes need not be as sharply pointed; 366 .71 CR2032 .79 however, they tend to wear to a point just the same. The rope 370 .39 BR2016 .95 loop runs quietly, but the chain gives out sundry bumping 371 ,. ,3$ 8Rio2o .95 372 1.35 BR2320 .95 and grinding noises when it twists, as it inevitably does while ABOVE REPRESENTS ONLY PARTIAL BATTERY LISTING. passing over the pulleys. Because chain systems are most FREE COMPLETE BATTERY PRICE LIST AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST. commonly used (rope-to-chain conversion kits tend to make Battery Startup Kit them even more so), the chain system is the most important. The wear on many old chains is, in some cases, almost • 260 Assorted Popular Batteries enough to sever the links. As chain wear may cause these • 50 Drawer Battery Cabinet ~ •AW/ Cross-Reference Book ~ clocks to stop, sometimes permanently, it is important to • Battery Tester analyze just what happens to them during normal running. • Battery Replacement Instruction Sheet Wear in the links, Figure 1 (b). lengthens the chain appreciably 0 so that eventually there are only, for example, 38 links per s141° w1thout too•• foot instead of the original 40. Grooves which form in the 50 ends of the Iinks can also stiffen the chain so that it does not $163 wlthtooll run as easily over the pulleys. Call or FAX.for Free Tool, Findings, and Watch Catalogs! ·-· .. ' - . .. The pulleys' chain-bearing surfaces (lands) on both Phq11~ Ordets . - sides of the spikes also wear down, as do the spikes, until the pulley becomes effectively smaller. A smaller pulley calls •· ~ 1-SOG-476~271 · 51'1' ~~ for more, rather than fewer, links per foot; yet, as mentioned above, the number of links per foot in the worn chain has decreased. The chain and pulleys therefore wear away in ~ · ~~;~:.4i;s::a~;~· ~ opposing directions and in terms of the many years of a Tampa (813)229-2715 Lo~I Fax (813)221-8016 clock's lifespan, become incompatible relatively quickly. '*All state$ Toll Free-Including Al'1skB, Hawaii, Puerio 690 Rico., and th.e Vli;gfiJ. Islam~~ . More complications arise from the pulleys themselves. June 1990/Horological Times 25 Generally, the separately driven no. 1 arbors of weight-driven one, on a firm-fitting mandrel in the lathe and machine the clocks, as well as those of many spring-driven clocks, turn tips of the spikes and the link-bearing lands at their bases to roughly the same number of times per day. In Huygens system a common size. Leave both diameters as large as possible, clocks this is unfortunately not the case. The strike-side machining very little off the lowest surfaces. Machine the sides pulley, in addition to running the strike train, sustains all the of any new oversize spikes which have been fitted so that the stresses of daily winding and therefore wears away from the spikes are effectively centered across the width of the pulley. chain even faster than the time-side pulley. The lands on both sides of the spikes must be of equal height. In view of this destructive wear pattern, it will no Now turn down the larger pulley-the time side-to longer come as a surprise if the fitting of a new chain does the same dimensions as those just machined for the strike-side not by itself cure the problem, for a chain that fits one pulley pulley. It may be possible to use the T1 (time no. 1) arbor to will not suit the other one. It is obvious, therefore, that the do this with a live center in the tailstock for stability. pulleys must be equalized before a new chain can be con For both pulleys file the tips of the spikes to uni sidered at all. If they are beyond redemption, there is no formity wherever required. Machining the lands will naturally alternative to replacement. In that event, the most convenient have lengthened them, so file out the indents between them, solution is probably to use the above-mentioned conversion Figure 1 (c). making all the indents as uniform as possible. kit which contains two pulleys and a matching chain. Any Keep trying the chain until it fits snugly round the pulley. other old pulleys which may be available are very likely to Despite the small reduction in diameter due to machining, be afflicted by the same disease, though perhaps to a lesser it is unlikely that the spikes will be too long as they were degree. probably on the short side initially. However, if the chain is in To preserve as much original equipment as possible, any way reluctant to come off the pu Iley, the spikes must be however, it is desirable to remachine both old pulleys to a slimmed at their tips or even shortened very slightly but left common size, whenever feasible, and then to buy or make as long as possible. a new chain to suit them. As for wear in other parts, the counterweight usually To do this, remove the no. 1 arbors and their pulleys wears away in one place rather than equally all around. If the from the movement. Punch out the pin that holds the strike groove is unacceptably deep, it is best to cut through it and side pulley on its arbor and slide the pulley off. Unpin the join the ring again. Since the ring is generally made of lead, fixed, time-side pulley and work it off the arbor. Examination it will soft solder readily. The reduced size will not present will show that the sides of each pulley are pinned to the a problem and the counterweight will perform as before. pulley's center section. Drill out and remove these pins, which The weight pulley may require attention; if it fails will be lightly riveted, and then take off the two sides, mark to keep the chain in alignment, a twist may develop. Figure ing each one for easy reassembly. 1 (d) shows a cross section of a chain pulley. The two bearing Check that the spikes are all present and equispaced; surfaces, or lands, must take all the weight, so it is essential their positioning is critical. Occasionally they are unequally that the clearance groove be deep enough to enable them to spaced, off center, or not set radially. Frequently they are do so. The groove must also be wide enough to avoid jamming grooved by long contact with chain links of slightly differing the chain. shapes. They are constantly involved in steel-to-steel con Figure 1 (e) shows a cross section of the common type frontation with the chain; in fact, they lead a very hard life of pulley used in a wide variety of applications. When cable indeed. Often they are worn down so far that replacement rather than chain is used in a Huygens system, both the weight is necessary. pulley and the spiked pulleys have this configuration. When The shortcomings of the Huygens arrangement chain is used, the type shown in Figure 1 (e) is a poor choice have already been described. If it is t o work even reasonably for the weight pulley because the links rotate at random we ll , it is essent ial that t he spikes of both pulleys be radial, when passing over the pulley; this promotes the development equispaced, positioned on t he center line, equal in length, of twists. In contrast, the pulley of Figure 1 (d) tends to keep and identical in shape. Although this may seem a tall order, the links in line with those on the spiked pulleys. short or displaced spikes stand out quite plainly to an eye In all Huygens systems where a chain is used, it is that is deliberately looking for them. Check the spacing with essential to examine every single link and correct any that calipers or dividers or by any other means you wish to employ. are malformed. Clean the chain and fit it on the pulleys, taking Check that all the spikes are set centrally between the edges care not to include a built-in twist when joining the ends. of the pulley. Do not oil it. Spikes are often difficult to remove, so if one needs Because there were no noticeable standards around replacing or shifting it is best to t'ile it off flush and drill it when these old clocks were made, it is hard to find two out. Use a rattail file to enlarge the hole in the desired direc that are alike. Although replacement chains are available, tion and then round it out with a larger drill. (A punch can be it may be that none of them are quite right as to link size inserted into the hole to knock out the spike diametrically for your particular clock. opposite if necessary.) In the next article I will give details of a small, Turn down a stub of 1/8" or 3/16" mild steel rod hand-operated chain maker which, if you have time to build on the lathe until it is a tight press fit for the hole just drilled it, can get you off the hook, as it were. and hammer it into place. Cut the rod off, leaving it a little too long. Repeat the process as required with other spikes. Mount the smallest pulley, invariably the strike-side 26 Horological Times/June 1990 SELF-WINDING WATCHES VIGOR.I!\' (Continued from page 23) POWER PLUS FLEXIBLE Having released the mainspring previously, it is now SHAFT safe to remove the pallet and bridge. If you need dismantling MACHINE instructions, the balance bridge components are shown in the exploded view of Figure 5. Note that there is no hairspring 1/8 HP- 16.500 RPM stud-only a hairspring clamp (378) which grasps the hair Includes: spring's end. • #30 Handpiece Remember to secure the casing clamps (166) so you • 13 piece Buff/ do not lose them during the cleaning process. Brush Assortment First, remove the driving gear bridge (1447) and its #HT-130WO screw (5125). This will let you take out the driving gear assembly (1482/1). LIST PRICE $163.25 When you have taken out the two train wheel bridge SALE PRICE! screws (5110), you can lift off the train wheel bridge. Then you can remove the sweep second wheel and pinion (227), $119.95 the third wheel and pinion (210), the escape wheel (705), the screw (5410), the ratchet wheel cup (418), and the ratchet wheel and barrel. After removing the non-jeweled bearing plate (343), J_ewelers remove the center wheel cock (126) and screw (5125) and the Supply, Inc. center wheel itself (205). The lower right view of Figure 5 shows the under side of the train bridge with the two crown wheels ( 420), 13310 Industrial Park Blvd. their cores (423), and seats (414). The movement's click-click Suite 190 spring ( 434) is secured by the click spring screw (5434). Minneapolls, Minnesota 55441 Orders Only---1-800-328-0614 CAUTION lnformation-----612-553-1977 Fax------612-553-0588 You can clean the 916 in the normal manner. How ever, remember that the sealed barrel should not be opened or lubricated beyond indications contained in the oiling directions. The escape wheel and pallet have been treated with "STOP OIL" for better oil retention. Therefore, clean these CONOJ!EB parts separately only with liquids having a benzine base or with chlorine solvents. Otherwise the "STOP OIL" treat ment will be affected. ~ 01/AYLE (CONTINUED NEXT MONTH) We have it all I And we ship todaql ROLEX MATERIAL OUR SPECIAL TY. GR EAT BATTERY PR ICES ON CAREERS for the 90's EVEREADY & PANASONIC. -and beyond SUPER FAST SERVICE Watchmaking Engraving Clock Repair Jewelry TO ANYWHERE!! GEM CITY COLLEGE 1-800-448-7786 700 State Street Quincy, IL 62301 217-222-0391 FINANCIAL AID GRANTS, LOANS NEW YORK STATE (212) 840-1606 PLACEMENT ASSISTANCE FOR GRADUATES June 1990/Horological Times 27 G=O@@@~ [p@[Q)@~ ~@@@~ John A. Nagle Don't Be Left Speechless o you have a family doctor? A good, old-fashioned A good method of gaining good standing in the com General Practicioner? Due to specilization in medi munity is by speaking to organizations. Social, fraternal, pro Dcine, few enter into a family practice. I guess you fessional groups, and even schools are always in need of pro could say that it's a dying field! grams for their meetings. However, doctors are on top of things. They main A clockmaker who can present an interesting talk tain a positive, professional image and go about their business. about local clockmakers and their clocks is going to get a GPs know that they are in demand and competition is vir jump on his competition. One program that I frequently use is tually nonexistent. Seldom if ever do you read of a doctor nothing more than slides of my shop. Pictures of the shop and crying about a vanishing trade. We should take notice and fol the work that goes on with some talk thrown in, and that's low their example. all there is to it. It usually provokes a good question-and Don't you get tired of seeing articles about clock and answer session and everyone has a good time. watch repairmen, when the gist of the article is a crybaby's The neat thing about public speaking is that it is a lament about the lack of people doing the work? Often the skill that anyone can learn. The Dale Carnegie Speaking individual featured in the story is wearing an old flannel Course is one of the best that I have seen. Another way to shirt or clothing associated with common laborers. develop your speaking skill is to get involved with your local I read one article wherein the "clock fixer" com Toastmasters. This group is dedicated to improving speaking plained about the people who didn't want to pay to have things skills. Both organizations are very supportive and you will be fixed. He needed a shaye and some clean clothes; no wonder welcomed and helped. (A word of caution: try to get some ex people didn't want to pay much. They didn't think that he perience before speaking to any group. A poor presentation was worth any more! will not do much to enhance your image .) We don't bargain when it comes to our rates. We also Where do you go to give your first talk? Why, at your don't care if our competitors' prices are lower. A good reply local guild meeting! You're active in your local guild, aren't to a customer who challenges your charges by using a refer you? At one time guild membership was a treasured posses ence to a lower price from your competitor is: "He knows sion. It should be no less now! what he's worth." Your guild will support you and help you improve Professionalism is your goal. Start working on it to your program. Ask for comments. Polish up the rough edges. day. If you follow through with this decision I guarantee that Now you are ready for the general public. this time next year you will be earning more money, have a Developing a program isn't difficult if you devise better community image, and feel much better about yourself! and follow a basic format. The first thing to consider is the 28 Horological Times/June 1990 topic. Select a subject that you feel comfortable with and at the same time will be interesting to your audience. After .) '1IN A BURRY? you've chosen a topic, list all that you know about it and then list any reference material that should be consulted. With this WE'RE FAST!! information you are now ready to begin planning your pro gram. AND ... A simple program consists of: 1) an introduction, WE PROVIDE ALL 2) discussion, 3) demonstration, 4) summary, and 5) ques OF THE SPECIAL tions and answers. SERVICES YOU N~ED The introduction is nothing more than a statement or TO MAKE THE BEST USE OF YOUR TIME two about the program subject. The discussion is the part of your talk that explains the hows and whys of whatever you are talking about. A demonstration segment is advantageous because it GIVE US A TRY!! breaks up the program. It's tough to hold a group's interest by just talking. The type of demonstration you give could be • Custom Crystal Fitting • Parts Sample Matching actually doing what you are talking about, or you could be • Mo""ment ldentlHcatlon • Dial ReHnlshlng showing slides as you talk. With VCRs so common, you might • Old Parts A"811abllty • Same Day Rush Shipping consider making your own videos. We'll 1Reet all oJ your watch ptirt and tool A summary is exactly that: Quickly review the meat neetbl pro1Rptly and expertly. of your talk. You can end the program with your summary, but many people like to have a Q&A session also. The question-and-answer session is a good way to DAVIS SUPPLY end a program, but don't milk it. If you ask, "Are there any 333 W. CHURCH AVE., S.W. questions?" and don't get any response, quit. Just thank the P.O. BOX 1140 Serving the trade group for having you, then sit down. There is nothing more since 1958 uncomfortable than a speaker trying to make people ask ques ROANOKE, VA 24006 tions by standing there waiting for some poor soul to speak ORDER: (800) 533-6293 IN VA: (800) 533-1523 up. FAX: (703) 344-5153 That's all there is to it! Now for an example of how a talk could go. I won't go into any depth, as this is just a sample format. What do you do when "Ladies and Gentlemen, it gives me great pleasure to introduce John Nagle, Clockmaker." you can't find a crystal Introduction: Good evening, folks. Tonight I'd like to talk about the proper care and maintenance of your clocks. to fit a watch? Discussion: Most people think of clocks as furniture D A. Tell your customer to go elsewhere. or items used to enhance the decor of the home or office. No D 8. Tell your customer that you lost it. thing could be further from the truth. It is most important to realize that clocks are hard-working machines. Being machines, DC.Send it to us. clocks require proper handling and periodic, professional care (etc., the talk goes on). Recent breakthroughs in technology Demonstration: To give you a better idea of what have allowed us to fit a crystal to virtu I'm talking about, I'm going to sho:v you some slides and let ally any watch bezel. Our experienced you see some of the things that could happen to your clock. crystal fitters and the latest equipment If you have any questions just shout them and I'll answer have enabled us to offer 24 hour turn them while we have the pictures on the screen. (Show some more slides and continue demonstration.) around on most jobs. The next time that Summary: As you can see, clocks are very special you get that "impossible" job give us a machines that if properly cared for will provide years of en try! We'll even throw in a free crystal fit. joyment to you, to your children, and to their children. Join our newly established Crysta{ Cfu6. Questions and Answers: Are there any more ques Call for details today! _ _ tions? (If any questions are asked, answer them; if not, tell 800 245 5090 the group: "Thank you for being a great audience.") 800-792-2820 PA Easy, isn't it? I'm sure that you'll come up with talks far superior to anything that I do. Let's all give a talk to start our professional walk. Isn't that the way the expression goes? Talk the talk and walk the walk. See you next time when we will having a striking discussion. 'UCII3 June 1990/Horological Times 29 SHOPTALK Wes Door, CMW Sleeves hose of us who work on old pocket watches are quite the yoke bridge (not shown) will help hold the stem in the often concerned with sleeves. We need to answer set position after we manually pull the stem out to this set Tquestions such as: Do we need a new one? Do we sim- position. Otherwise, the tendency is for the stem to return ply need to adjust it? Is the sleeve our real problem? What to the winding position. does a sleeve do and why don't all watches use them? The set spring (Figure 1) holds just a little spring ten sion against the set lever when in the winding position. This PURPOSE OF A SLEEVE causes the clutch wheel to remain against the winding pinion The purpose of a sleeve is to hold the stem and allow it to shift and have enough tension to allow it to ratchet. Figure 1 in from winding to setting position. Also, it must have a certain dicates the stem is pulled out to the set position. Even if the amount of holding tension and this makes its purpose different yoke bridge is broken and the locking effect between detent than the nonsleeve watches that we generally see. and set lever is subnormal, the stem would slip back into the winding position, and, of course, this will not affect the run NO-SLEEVE TYPES ning ability in a detent-type, stem-set watch. To explain this, let's start with a watch that doesn't require a sleeve to hold the stem in place. Refer to Figure 1. There's SLEEVES nothing new about this type of watch; this is the usual type The opposite is true in a watch with a sleeve. The tendency is we've been working on for years. Note the detent extends over for the stem to "rest" in the setting position, until the sleeve a slot in the stem and thus is held in place. It "pivots" on the plays its part. The main purpose of a sleeve is to hold the stem detent screw to allow it to shift from winding to setting po in the wind position. For instance, if the sleeve is weak the sition. Notice that the setting spring causes tension to hold the stem will slip out to the set position. The watch will prob stem in the winding position-not the setting position. True, ably stop in a short time, as it is not designed to propel the ad- Figure 2 Figure 3 Set Lever -A Clutch Wheel Figure 4 30 Horological Times/June 1990 ditional dial wheels, such as the intermediate wheel, minute trick. If the sleeve is already screwed in as far as it will go, then and hour wheel, etc. we must either fit a new (and longer) sleeve and/or fit a new Because of this possible danger, railroad watches are stem with a longer square length area. Also, we must consider required to be lever set. This means that a lever is pulled out what the crown is doing. It probably will have enough space for setting after first removing the case bezel. This is a real between it and the case pendant to allow for any reasonable safety. If this railroad watch has a sleeve, it is not used for set adjusting. If not, a new stem must be fitted with a longer ting. This watch will wind only, regardless of the stem IN or threaded area. OUT position; the lever only will set this watch. A longer tubed crown may be found and used instead So we see that the sleeve must hold the stem in the of the new stem with longer threaded area, if desired. We must winding position, even though there is a counter spring tension watch threads and crown tap sizes; they must match. There are trying to return it to a set position (Figure 2). The watch is some sleeves that fit in without the adjustable threaded area, normally in the set position. When the stem is pushed in, the and on these we must make our adjustment by using a new shoulder "A" of the stem holds against the sleeve. Actually, sleeve or stem. Sometimes the cross slots on that old sleeve this shoulder should be against the sleeve in this drawing be are so bad that we cannot remove the sleeve from the case or cause this holds the stem in proper position. Note the steep even turn it enough to adjust it. angle on the upper portion of this shoulder. Sometimes we need to use our lathe and recut this shoulder. The lower shoul BROOCH TO REMOVE SLEEVE der area, however, does not need this sharp angle. As the stem Here's a good last resort method of removing that old damaged is pushed into wind position it slides over this area. There is sleeve. Take a large taper brooch and slide it down into the quite a lot of tension on the sleeve caused by the counterac sleeve (see Figure 5). Then use a hammer and tap the brooch tion of the spring. The pin "B" pushes against lever "C," into the old sleeve. Now we can use pliers to turn the brooch and this causes lever "D" to move upward to wind position. So and unscrew the old sleeve. The only thing we have damaged we see this sleeve has a big job of holding our stem. is the old sleeve and all it is good for is to be used as a sample. The winding and setting examples shown here are not TO ADJUST SLEEVE to scale and do not represent all of the various types on the While in the winding position, if we must additionally push market. Figure 2 shows just one example. Some of the other in on the crown in order to wind the watch, then we need to systems use a pin or lever on the pillar plate, part of which will set the sleeve deeper. We need to first remove the crown by extend through and be continued on the inside of the pillar holding the stem at position "A" in Figure 3. By using pliers plate. It gets more complicated and harder to explain and we can hold the stem and then unscrew the crown to remove sketch. The basic principle is shown here. it (we will presume this is a screw-in type of sleeve). Observe With a few tricks up our sleeves, we should be able the end and fit an appropriate sleeve wrench (Figure 4) and to solve our sleeve-fitting problems. 'ULIB screw the sleeve in a half turn or so. Recase the watch and try again. If we set the sleeve too deep, the watch will still wind all right but now it will not set. A few more tries should do the Hammer Figure 5 j No.6648 Machine to shape patterns for grinding watch glasses. Brooch ® " BERGEON I No.6610 Automatic machine to cut out shaped mineral glasses. Sold through specialized dealers. BERG EON & CIE SA CH2400 LE LOCLE 11, av. du Technicum Telex 952 321 berg ch June 1990/Horological Times 31 YALE &TOWNE TIMELOCKS Part 1 By David A. Christianson CMW, CMBHI ©1990. All rights reserved by the author. n the strictest sense of the word, a timelock is not a lock at all. However, it does prevent combination locks from operating until a predetermined time. The timelock has a hole in one end of its case into which a finger (or tongue) can enter. The finger is attached to the boltwork of the safe or vault. When the timelock move ments are running, the hole is blocked, the finger cannot enter the hole, and therefore the boltwork needed to open the safe cannot move (even if the combination lock is un locked). Only one time movement is needed to remove the blockage. However, all timelocks have either two or more movements; if one fails, the other will continue to operate the timelock . The thicker the vault's door and walls, the more time movements that are required for the timelock, simply because the cost of breaking into such a vault would increase Figure 1. Swiss-manufactured timelock movement for the Yale & Towne in proportion to the thickness of the vault's perimeter. The Mfg. Co., circa 1960. odds of all four movements failing on a very thick vault door are astronomical-so is the cost of breaking into such a vault if a lock with fewer movements had been used and failed . Some time .in a future article we'll take a plunge into ments. But by the early 1960s, only four domestic manufac the world of timelock cases and their actual function. But turers remained: Mosler, Diebold, Sargent-Greenleaf, and Yale right now our interest is in the timelock movements them & Towne. Until the early 1950s most of the movements for selves, so we'll press on in that direction. these timelocks were produced by the Waltham, Hamilton, Il The history of timelocks dates back to about 1870 linois, and E. Howard watch companies. (E. Howard dropped when James Sargent built the first practical timelock (see the out in the 1930s.) Following the early 1950s, most if not all May '89 issue of Horological Times). From that time the in timelock movements were of Swiss manufacture (Figures 1 dustry grew to include a number of makers of these instru- and 2). 32 Horological Times/June 1990 One of the pioneers in the timelock industry was the Yale Manufacturing Company of Stanford, Connecticut; later they became the Yale & Towne Manufacturing Company. Yale Manufacturing's interest in timelocks followed very closely on the heels of James Sargent's initial invention. In the 1850s, Linus Yaled, Sr. produced a series of key-operated bank locks (known as "Treasury Locks") that were remarkable in their ingenuity of design, workmanship, and security. Much rivalry existed among locksmiths and lock manufacturers during this time, as each tried in earnest to develop a lock that could not be picked and at the same time pick all the locks made by competitors. When Mr. Yale not only learned to pick all his competitors' new safe locks, but also learned to defeat his own best lock, he turned his at tention to an even more secure method of locking safes. Figure 2. Yale & Towne timelock case fitted with three Swiss timelock In about 1861 , Mr. Yale perfected the dial combina movements. tion lock, a lock which in crude forms had been known for centuries. The key-operated bank lock in turn was soon eclipsed by this much superior combination form- a lock which has come down to us today virtually unchanged in de sign from its inception. Banking institutions quickly recognized the use and value of such combination locks. But since they could not be picked or defeated by ordinary (and not so ordinary) bank robbers, the robbers reverted to threats, intimidation, and outright torture to force the bankers to open their safes after banking hours. KEY TEST FOR Figure 3. Model #1 Yale Lock Mfg. Co. timelock fitted with two precision chronometer movements by E. Howard Watch Company. QUARTZ WATCHES The "KEY TEST FOR QUARTZ WATCHES" by Ewell Hartman, CMW is a quick and simple method of locating the problem in a quartz analog movement. The only tool required is a meter. Material and instructions for learning this test is supplied by the AWi-ELM Trust as part of their educational work. There is no charge to any group wishing to learn this test. There are great benefits to learning this in a group setting. However, for individuals who may not be able to participate in a group, it is available to them also. For more information call or write to the AWi office for an information sheet and application Figure 4. The Yale Model #1 showing blocked hole in which a tongue from the vault' s boltwork would try to enter, preventing the boltwork from func form. tioning until the time movements unblocked the hole. June 1990 /Horological Times 33 Figure 5. Triple movement timelock using three Yale "L"-type E. Howard movements. Figure 6. Schematic line drawing of a Yale timelock holding three "L"· type movements. Figure 7. Closeup of the Yale "L"-type timelock movement. Figure 8. Side view of the "L"-type showing five-wheel train. Within about 10 years of the inception and general "L" type but has a four-wheel train instead of a five (not usage of combination locks, James Sargent invented his time counting the escape wheel). And the Yale "Midget" is a small lock to prevent any (even authorized) openings after regular version of the "L" and also has the five-wheel train. Seth banking hours. And within a year or two Yale Manufacturing Thomas also manufactured movements for Yale, their designs Company patented its model No. 1 timelock on February 6, being similar to the E. Howard version-even to the point of 1872 (Figures 3 and 4). This very early and unique timelock, the whole movement block being exchangeable between controlled by two precision E. Howard chronometer move timelock cases (but not exchangeable part for part with the ments, will be the subject of a later article. Howard). All of the movements appear to be circa 1900. In the earlier years of the timelock industry, the An interesting variation from the early 1920s' normal E. Howard Watch Company was the major supplier of time "L," "M," and "Midget" -type movements is the Yale "Y" lock movements for many of the timelock companies. A com type or pie-shaped movement, seen in the diagram in Figure pany such as the Yale Manufacturing Company would design 9. It should be noted that the assembly and disassembly for all a timelock mechanism and then commission time movements the Yale movements are the same. for their mechanism from a watch factory such as E. Howard. Next month we'll take a quick look at one more in Figures 5 and 6 show a triple movement timelock teresting antique Yale timelock, the Yale Triple-movement, using three Yale "L" type E. Howard movements. Figures 7 type "C" (Figure 10), along with a more detailed look at the and 8 show two views of the movements used in this timelock. Yale "L"-type movement, a very popular movement designed Several other Yale & Towne timelocks used adaptations of the by E. Howard and used by several other timelock manufactur Yale "L" type movements. The Yale "M" type looks like the ers for a number of years around the turn of the century. 34 Horological Times/June 1990 ..-..~---/------Winding arbor Pointer ---4r'l.-----i'------Trip lever ,...______Top plate ..._.'------Dial ~----- Platform Escapement Assembly ~------Platform Escapement Assembly , ______Pillar plate /+------Ratchet assembly L------Fifth wheel Figure 9. Vale " V"-t y pe (pie-shaped) timelock movement. Why Not Drop lls A Note1 EXPRESS YOURSELF! What you do like ... what you don't like AWi/ about the Horological Times Horological Times. 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 Figure 10. Yale triple-movement type "C." June 1990/Horological Times 35 James Adams, CMW, FBHI Balance Complete alance completes are nowhere near as complicated as hairspring alone was enormous. So you see, by combining the the subjects discussed in the prior two articles. This, split-rimmed, bimetallic balance wheel with the then state Bfriend novice, will be a ho-hum piece of cake for of-the-art blue steel hairspring, the average time rate was you. brought into acceptable ranges in decent to high-grade pocket There are a couple of things different with the watches. What do ya say gang, let's run an article on the hair American pocket watch as compared to the more modern spring as used in the American pocket watches of bygone mechanical detached lever balance complete. years. This will be coming soon. It proves these old gaffers To start with, the balance wheels are bimetallic in had some smarts at that. Although it should not come as a nature and are also cut rimmed. Back then, a hundred or so surprise, if industrial history is studied, even back then they years ago, there was a dire need for some system of tempera had as much on the ball as today's innovators. ture compensation of the balance wheel. Without that, the In the higher grade escapements of that time they timepiece would run slow in hot summer months and very carried time rating a couple of steps further. Time value fast in the cold winter months. What an ingenious idea de balance screws were added. A pair of balance screws would signers came up with-the compensating balance. It is a vary the time rate of a wheel by approximately one hour. balance wheel rim of two different metals bonded together, Some factories made screws known as heavy, medium, or 2/5 steel and 3/5 brass. The expansion and contraction rate light. Pairs of timing screws of specific stated values for given of each metal being different, they work against each other watch movements were also available. Added to this were to nullify each other's heat/cold expansion rates to a bare assortments of timing washers which, added under existing minimum. The rims of these bimetallic balances were cut so balance screws, changed time rates from seconds per day as to allow the necessary movement, inward and outward, on through minutes per day. In premium grade movements of the rims. Rims that contracted caused the balance to speed balances were also fitted with meantime screws, more often up. Rim expansion caused the balance o slow down. Neat called "quarter screws." These screws had much longer thread thinking! sections and they fitted friction tight. Their purpose was There is another aspect that also has its effect on also for regulating time rates by wheel mass adjustment time rates in the American pocket watch, and that is the rather than using the regulator. fitted hairspring. The pocket watches of 100 to 150 years There are two important tests to make after a balance of age were fitted with blue steel hairsprings, and they were staff has been replaced, these being tests on balance truth. as affected in their own right by heat and cold. It was a The wheel, at normal room temperature with a cut rim bi known fact early on, and commented on in 1935 by Howard metallic wheel, should be perfectly round in its circumference. L. Beehler of the Hamilton Watch Company. A solid brass This is done by placing the balance in a truing caliper. This balance wheel fitted with a carbon steel hairspring will lose caliper supports the pivot ends of the balance staff and allows 10 to 12 seconds per day per one degree centigrade rise in the wheel to rotate. The gauge arm of the caliper is positioned temperature. It was noted that this rate loss in the solid at the wheel rim. As the wheel is rotated, the gauge will indi balance fitted with a steel hairspring was accounted for as cate if the wheel rim is indeed true in the round. If not, the follows: watchmaker manipulates the rim so as to make it true in the Expansion of the balance - a loss of 1.5 seconds round. The caliper is also used to check the wheel for true Increase in size of hairspring - a gain of 1.5 seconds in the flat; that is, checking to remove any up-and-down Loss of elasticity of hairspring - a loss of 10 to 12 seconds. wobble the wheel may have. By carrying out the above tests, The net effect of the expansion/contraction of the you have trued the wheel in the round and flat. This is a major 36 Horological Times/June 1990 factor in time rating. See, you are now entering the world of Now we fine tune the pmsmg by compensating a true watchmaker. Right on, McDuff! More to do and learn. the weight adjustment of the wheel. Part of the Rolex service Next, we must poise the wheel. feature is dynamic poising of the Rolex balance each time the Poising means testing the balance wheel, less the movement is serviced. Ewell Hartman has an in-depth article balance spring (hairspring), to make sure the balance assembly on dynamic poising available from AWi Central. It's a nice is not heavy in any one spot on the wheel. The balance as added tool for budding professionals. I'll tell you something sembly is placed on a poising tool. If there is a heavy spot else you should set your sights on, and that is AWI certifi on the wheel, the heavy spot will turn downward. A nicely cation. You might not be able to handle it right now, but get poised wheel will not rotate on its own to the heavy spot. the CMW certification information from AWI Central and It will stay in any position it is placed. Why poising? Well, a make it your professional goal to achieve CMW. What is CMW? pocket watch in the dial up or the dial down position is not It is Certified Master Watchmaker. It's the recognized hallmark affected by out of poise, but the balance assembly is affected of "King of the Mountain" in watchmaking. by out of poise in the pendant up, down, right, or left. The After we look at the ins and outs of the balance heavy spot on the wheel tends to want to go downward. spring, we will say a few words about manipulating the balance Hence, if the heavy spot is downward the watch will run fast, spring and time adjusting in the American pocket watch. but if the heavy spot is on top the watch will run more slowly. Why should you spend so much time learning to service these You guess why. Hey, you guys gotta use your bean, too. OK? great-granddaddies of timekeeping? Try professional pride Ole Grandpa Adams can't do it all for you. OK, guys and dolls, in repairing something everyone can't, and you better believe this is called static poise. We also have dynamic poise. This everyone can't. You can command and get a minimum of is where the balance spring (hairspring) is fitted to the balance three times as many $$$$ from these as from the other types assembly, becoming the balance complete. The balance com of movements. And that, I think, you can carve in granite! plete is fitted to the movement and a couple turns of main Bye-bye little friends. spring power is cranked in to get the balance complete moving. Let's back up a minute here. When the balance spring (hair REFERENCE MATERIAL spring) is added, the static poise has changed. Why? Because Chicago School of Watchmaking the balance spring being a spiral and the collets and collet pin 1935 Lecture of Howard L. Beehler being not evenly weighted, makes the balance spring not Personal experience poise true. Here comes dynamic poise. to do? If for no other reason, I consider it to be compromise workmanship on appearance alone. There may be a reason other than appearance. If the pivot does not extend through the longer bushing, as wear occurs it develops a no-endshake condition. The pivot By J.M. Huckabee tip sits inside a wear notch. The attendant problems then are CLOCKMAKING BITS CMC, FBHI similar to those with pivot ringing. This can be obviated by use of the bushing that is "too short" which is another com Ao()at... promise. Possibly the best decision is to cut off the longer bushing. I do this with a watchmakers lathe and a hand-held BUSHINGS graver. It's easy to do. A #27 col let corresponds to the KWM #3 size and #35 col let to the #4 size. Make a stepping device for the collet. A small wood 0. When placing bushings in old American clocks, peg friction tight on the inside of the collet works great the bushings are always too long or too short. What should as a backstop. Handle the bushing on a broach while placing I do about this? it into and removing it from the col let. I have screw stops fitted into my collets that permit easier depth adjustments. It's a good idea, but they then A. That's the way it is! Most American clock plates become a dedicated tool and lose their general utility. are dimensioned in preferred English fractions. The bushings by KWM and all others that I'm familiar with are scaled in the metric decimal system. Many American clock plates are 1 /16 inch thick (0.0625 inch). KWM has a 1.4 mm bushing length (too short) and 1.7 mm length (too long). The 1/16 If you have a subject that you would like J.M. Huckabee inch plate needs a bushing 1.588 mm in length. to address in a future article, send it to "Ask Huck," c/o I frequently see clocks with the longer bushing Horological Times, 3700 Harrison Ave., Cincinnati, OH overhanging the plate outside surface. Is this the correct thing 45211. June 1990/Horological Times 37 Technically © 1990 WATCHES Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC, CMBHI (All rights reserved by the author) Antique Watch Restoration ~ 1990 PART LIV FINISHING PINIONS he degree and type of finish made on a new replace cutting the ogees on the wheel around the pinion. These ment pinion is somewhat determined by the finish subjects will be discussed in the order named. Ton the other pinions in the watch or clock. To restore a watch or clock to its original appearance and condi HARDENING PINIONS tion, one should try to match the finish of the other parts When hardening delicate watch pinions, 1t 1s very in the timepiece. If a new watch or clock is being constructed, important to use a method that will protect the pinion from then the finish should be made the best that it can be made. being overheated which could cause damage to the metal and Some reasons for making pinions smooth and highly· make the pinion useless. When a pinion or any other steel polished are: ( 1) To decrease friction as much as possible. part is overheated, the steel is left with a coarse grain after (2) To help prevent rust. (3) To help reduce failure by break it has been quenched. This causes the steel to be brittle and age. (4) For oil retention at the pivots. (5) For appearance. weak. Also, overheating steel can cause it to be distorted and To finish a newly cut pinion, one must be able to do warped. When steel is underheated, it will not damage the the following operations: hardening, tempering, straightening, steel as it can be reheated and quenched. polishing the leaves, making the finishing pivots, undercutting The method used by Elgin National Watch Company shoulders, polishing the ends of the leaves and rivet, and to harden balance staffs, pinions, and smal I parts was to use an electric furnace as a controlled method of heating the parts. A small scoop of balance staffs was placed in the center of a loading tray, then a scoop of charcoal was placed on each side of the staffs. The contents of the loading tray were poured into a cast iron tube and a cover was placed on the tube. Then the tube with its contents was placed in the electric furnace which was heated to a given temperature for a given number of minutes. A pair of tongs was used to remove the tube from the furnace. The cover was then removed from the tube and the contents were poured into the coolant which had a strainer to catch the contents underneath the coolant. Then, the strainer was lifted from the coolant to remove the staffS from the coolant. After this, the staffs were cleaned and tempered. By using the electric furnace, the temperature was very uniform and to the proper degree for the steel being hardened. When using the charcoal, the staffs absorbed addi tional carbon from the charcoal which added to the carbon already in the material from which the staffs were made. Also, the charcoal covered the staffs keeping air from reaching the staffs which prevented them from oxidizing during the heating process. When air reaches the surface of a piece of steel during the heating process, the surface will turn dark and this will need to be removed before the article is tempered. When 38 Horological Times/June 1990 Figure 2 COLD TAP WATER BORIC ACID POWDER heating steel parts with an alcohol lamp or gas torch, the parts the pinion is reheated to a medium cherry red color and then will oxidize. To prevent this oxidation when using an open quenched end first quickly into a container of cold tap water. flame to harden steel, the steel is first warmed and then Note: It is very important that the pinion be moved in the dipped into boric acid powder to form a uniform coating on flame so all parts of the pinion will be heated uniformly. When the surface. Then the steel is reheated to the proper tempera heating a pinion which has a large pinion head and a small ture for hardening and is then quenched. When the steel is arbor, the arbor should be built up with steel binding wire so quenched, the boric acid powder sheds off of the surface of the pinion will be heated more uniformly. Then the pinion the steel, leaving the surface clean of oxidation. Since most is tested with a fine file to see if it is hardened sufficiently. If watchmakers do not have an electric oven for hardening, the file bites into the surface of the pinion, it did not harden other safe methods must be used for hardening steel parts. which means that the process must be repeated and the pinion One method that can be used for holding small steel heated to a higher temperature than was done the first time. parts when they are being heated with a torch is to place them After the pinion has been hardened, the binding wire is care into a piece of small iron or steel pipe or a copper tube. fully removed from the pinion, the arbor part of the pinion Another method used by the author is shown in View B, ls cleaned with fine emery paper, and the pinion is cleaned Figure 3. A tray is made from the tubing by removing some thoroughly to prepare it for being tempered. material from one side of the tubing as shown. This is to allow a view of the part being heated. A cross hole is drilled through the tubing so a rod can be inserted for making a handle for the TEMPERING PINIONS tray as shown. This type of tray causes the steel part to be Figure 3 shows how the pinion is tempered. To heated very uniformly since the wall of the tray holds the temper a pinion or other small parts, some clean ashtray heat nicely and causes the heat to be maintained until the part sand is placed in a bluing pan and the pinion or other part is quenched. The whole tray is dipped end-first into the cool is placed on top of the sand. Make sure the pinion touches ant when the part is quenched. the sand at all points. Then heat the pan over an alcohol A tray like this can also be used when tempering the flame as shown until the pinion reaches a purple color and part. Some clean ashtray sand is placed in the tray and the starts into the first shade of blue. Then the pinion is removed part is placed on top of the sand, then the tray is heated from the sand with an old tweezer and placed on glass or metal from its bottom with an alcohol lamp or Fisher burner. to cool. Another method that can be used for holding pinions while they are being heated for hardening is shown in Figure 1. STRAIGHTENING A WARPED PINION A piece of iron binding wire is used to wrap around the pinion, Occasionally the arbor part of a pinion will warp as shown, with the end of the wire used to form a handle to during the hardening and tempering process. This happens hold onto while the pinion is being heated for hardening. because the pinion was unevenly heated or perhaps heated Figure 2 shows how a small pinion is heated for hardening. slightly hotter than it should have been. This warpage can The pinion is first warmed over an alcohol flame, then the also occur when the pinion is quenched. The pinion should pinion is dipped into a container of boric acid powder to form enter the coolant end first. If the pinion enters the coolant a uniform coating of the powder on its surface. After this, sideways, this can cause warpage. Note: When a pinion or June 1990/Horologi.cal Times 39 other steel part is quenched, it should be agitated in the cool carbide blades from a core drill. This carbide blade is hard and ant to prevent air bubbles from forming on the surface of the heavy and very effective. If a hammer is used for peening, piece. it must be hard enough to hold its shape during the peening When we have a pinion that is warped, it can be of blue steel. Note: Never try to straighten a pinion until it straightened by peening the hollow side as shown in View A, has been tempered. If one attempts to straighten a hard Figure 4. The peening is done at more than one place along pinion before it is tempered, it is likely to break. After the the hollow side. The pinion can be checked for trueness pinion has been straightened, then one would polish the leaves. by chucking the pinion in the lathe as shown in View B, Figure 4. The pinion is first chucked true by the pinion leaves, POLISHING PINION LEAVES then the tee rest is set up close to the pinion leaves to indicate Figure 5 shows how pinion leaves are polished. View when the pinion leaves are running true. A piece of pointed B shows a side view of a pinion polishing stand. The stand pegwood can be used over the tee rest against the arbor of the bolts to the bed of a small milling machine. The pinion to be pinion near the pinion leaves to true up the pinion. Then the polished is held between centers in the tool. The wood lap tee rest is used as an indicator in checking the truth of the fits on an arbor chuck which fastens in the spindle of the pinion arbor. The same procedure can be used to check the milling machine. The lap is made of a soft, close-grained wood arbor on the other end for trueness. As a final check, one such as apple wood or pear wood. A large diameter lap is should chuck the pinion by one end of the arbor to check the better than one of smaller diameter. The spindle of the milling trueness of the complete pinion. machine can be raised or lowered in relation to the bed. The When straightening larger watch and clock pinions, bed is moved back and forth under the spindle. View A, one would use the sharp edge of a hammer to do the peening. Figure 5 shows a top view of the tool fastened to the bed of For straightening larger pinions, the author uses one of the the milling machine. Note that the tool is mounted at an angle to the milling machine bed and to the wood lap. This angle is usually 3 to 5 degrees. When the tool is set at this angle, the pinion will be made to revolve between the centers Figure 4 automatically when the lap is lowered against the sharp ends of the pinion leaves. This action of the lap against the end of the pinion leaves actually makes a thread in the edge of the lap which has a pitch equal to the pitch of the pinion leaves. It is a good idea to have the lap wet with alcohol when the lap is lowered against the pinion leaves to form the thread. After the thread is formed, then Diamantine or Linde A is applied to the edge of the lap as the milling machine bed is moved uniformly back and forth to polish the pinion leaves for the full length of the leaves. Note: For this operation, it would be better if the milling machine bed had a lever feed rather than a screw feed; however, a screw feed will work satis factorily if it is turned fast and uniformly back and forth. The milling machine bed should have stops to limit the travel of the bed. This is to prevent the lap from running past the ends of the pinion leaves. If this happened, the thread on the edge of the lap could be damaged and needs to be remade. The lap should be kept damp with alcohol, and polishing powder Figure 5 may need to be added during the operation of polishing the leaves. Also, the lap may need to be lowered to cause the grooves on the edge of the lap to be cut deep enough to polish the bottoms of the pinion leaves. Note: If the pinion leaves being polished are very rough, one may need to first use a lap with 600 grit alumina powder to remove the heavy lines and then use the lap with Diamantine or Linde A for finishing. After the pinion leaves have been polished, then the pivots are made on both ends of the pinion and finished. ~. ' MAKING PIVOTS When making the pivots on the pinion, one should make the pivot on the pinion head end first. The distance from the shoulder of this pivot to the seat for the wheel is more important than the distance from the seat to the shoul B der on the arbor end. Therefore, one should make the pivot on the pinion head end first. The pivot is turned and left oversized about .01 to .02 mm. This allows for grinding and 40 Horological Times/June 1990 polishing the pivot. A sapphire burnisher is an excellent tool ground and polished without touching the end of the rivet for grinding the pivot to size. When the burnisher is being with the burnishers and polishing slip. used, it should be wiped clean quite often with a piece of View B, Figure 7 shows how a square-bottomed paper towel that has been saturated with cutting oil. The pinion looks after being undercut, and View C, Figure 7 shoulder of the pivot should have its corner chamfered with shows how a round-bottom pinion looks after being undercut. a graver at a 45 degree angle. The end of the pivots shou Id be The reason for undercutting the end of the leaves is to make slightly rounded and polished. When burnishing and polishing it easier to finish the ends of the leaves. The undercut pinion the pivots, the undercut edge of the burnisher and polishing is also intended to be an oil stop to prevent the oil ·from slip should be held at right angles to the pinion arbor as shown getting into the pinion leaves and wheel teeth. When oil gets in View A, Figure 6. View B, Figure 6 shows an end view of into the pinion leaves and wheel teeth, dust and lint are the sapphire burnisher for the purpose of showing how the attracted to the oil, and if the pivots have a close fit in their edge of the burnisher is slightly undercut. holes and the teeth have a close fit in the pinions, the watch After the pivot has been ground to size, it can be train could bind up and cause the watch to stop. After the burnished with a hard steel burnisher the same shape as the pinion leaves. have been undercut, the pinion can be staked sapphire burnisher. Note: The steel burnisher is also kept clean into the wheel. Then the ends of the pinion leaves are ground with the paper towel and cutting oil. After this, the pivot is flat and polished. polished with a boxwood slip and Diamantine or Linde A. Alcohol is used on the boxwood slip to hold the polishing POLISHING THE END OF THE LEAVES powder on the slip. The end of the pivot is burnished and Figure 8 shows two methods that can be used to pol ished as shown in View C, Figure 6. The sapphire burnisher grind and polish the end of the pinion leaves. View A shows a can also be used in finishing the arbors of the pinion. hand method of polishing the end of the leaves. The lap that is being used is made from a long clock bushing. A groove has UNDERCUTTING THE PINION LEAVES been turned around the bushing near the beveled end of the When restoring high-grade antique watches, one will bushing. The purpose of the groove is for the finge r and find that the pinions and wheels have a special finish compared thumbnails to fit into while using the lap. When the fingernails to lower-grade watches. High-grade watches have pinions with are used in the groove, the lap is free to seek a level position undercut leaves. The ends of the pinion leaves and the end of against the end of the pinion leaves which causes a flat surface the rivet have a beautiful flat polish and the arbors also have a to be produced. The hole in the bushing should be approx high polish. View A, Figure 7 shows how the ends of the imately one-fourth larger than the diameter of the pinion pinion leaves are undercut. This view also shows how the arbor near the end of the leaves. The outside diameter of the rivet shoulder on which the wheel fits is undercut. The extra bushing should be at least one-third larger than the diameter shoulder on the pinion's arbor is there so the arbor can be of the pinion leaves. There should be three laps made of each Figure 6 Figure 7 A A B c c June 1990/Horological Times 41 size. One lap is used for coarse grinding, another is used for Figure 8 final grinding, and the third lap is used for the final polishing and finishing. Each lap should be kept in a marked zip-lock plastic bag for future use. The compounds used by the author on these laps are: 600 grit clover grinding compound for rough grinding, 1000 grit clover grinding compound for final grinding, and for the final polish a diamond compound is used which has a 14,500 grit. The ends of the laps are kept flat with a fine file. The lap is held in the fingers while the file is pushed flat across the face of the lap. This filing should be done from different directions to assure that the surface is flat. To use the laps, the proper compound is placed on the face of the lap, then the lap is held flat against the face of the pinion leaves. As the lathe is turning, the lap is moved back and forth on the end of the pinion leaves to produce the desired results. The pinion should be cleaned thoroughly each time one changes laps and compounds. Another method used for facing the end of pinion leaves is shown in View B, Figure 8. With this method, special laps are used on the spindle of a pivot polisher and grinder. The laps are made from different materials such as iron, soft steel, copper, bellmetal, brass, tin, lead, zinc, ivory, and box wood. The laps made from the harder materials are used for 8 grinding and laps made from the softer materials are used for polishing and finishing. Some of the grinding and polishing compounds used with these laps include Arkansas oilstone powder, different grits of alumina (aluminum oxide), tin oxide, and red rouge. These materials are mixed with oil to form a thick paste. For more information on the pivot pol isher, see the October 1983 Horological Times. After the end of the pinion leaves has been polished, the ogees are cut on the wheel around the pinion. CUTTING THE OGEES Figure 9 shows how the wheel ogees are cut. The purpose of the ogees is to make it easier to polish the wheel while it is on the pinion without touching the pinion. It also makes it easier to pol ish the end of the rivet flat. View A shows a wheel and pinion with the ogees cut. View B, Figure 9 Figure 9 shows how the ogee is cut on the pinion-head side of the wheel. This is being done with a right-hand shouldering graver. The wheel must run absolutely true before one should attempt cutting the ogee; also, the graver should be highly polished for the job. Care must be taken to avoid cutting the ogee too A deeply. View C, Figure 9 shows the wheel reversed in the chuck and the ogee on the rivet side of the pinion is being cut. The tool being used is a left-hand jewel seating tool. This tool should also be well polished. After the ogees have been cut, then the laps used to face the pinion leaves are used to grind and polish the end of the .rivet which holds the wheel onto the pinion. This is not shown, but it is done in the same manner as facing the other end of the pinion leaves. "Antique Watch Restoration" will continue next month. 42 Horological Times/June 1990 TAPE 21: Approximately 2 hours J.M. HUCKABEE'S SUBJECT MATTER: Making an American clock verge. Huckabee demonstrates how to select and work raw materials into a verge for an Ingraham miniature kitchen clock ''Random Clock Talks'' time only. TAPE 22: Approximately 2 hours The series of 37 "Random Clock Talks" videotapes listed below are available for loan SUBJECT MATTER: Completion of making a verge for an Ingraham kitchen clock from to AWi members from the AWi Audio Visual Library. The tapes vary in viewing time Tape 21. Also random tips and cutting a from 1.25 to 2.00 hours and are available in the VHS format. A service charge of 32-tooth recoil escape wheel for an Ansonia $5.00 each is to accompany requests to borrow a tape; only one tape is loaned at a kitchen clock. time. The service charge covers AWi's production and shipping costs. Tapes should be TAPE 23: Approximately 2 hours returned to AWi within 7 days after receipt, insured for $30.00. Please order tape SUBJECT MATTER: Pivot and bushing by number along with your name, address, and $5.00 service charge. Send to: AWi problems and their repair. Audio Visual Library, 3700 Harrison Ave., Cincinnati, OH 45211. TAPE 24: Approximately 2 hours Not available at this time. TAPE 1: Approximately 2 hours TAPE 12: Approximately 2 hours SUBJECT MATTER: A brief view and SUBJECT MATTER: Using a custom-made discussion of a variety of clocks and tools attachment to make wheels and index plates used in the Huckabee shop. on the Unimat lathe. The custom-made TAPE 25: Approximately 2 hours attachments can be made from drawing SUBJECT MATTER: Clock mainspring TAPE 2: Approximately 2 hours available from AWi upon request. and barrel work. SUBJECT MATTER: Demonstration and discussion on using various tools and lathes TAF'E 13: Approximately 2 hours TAPE 26: Approximately 2 hours to make and fit a clock bushing. SUBJECT MATTER: Cutting clock wheels SUBJECT MATTER: Clock mainspring ends a demonstration of cutting the wheels used and barrel teeth. Huckabee demonstrates TAPE 3: Approximately 2 hours in the AWi CMC examination. how to replace teeth in the barrel of an SUBJECT MATTER: Discussion and dem Urgos 8-day modern clock. Huckabee onstration on lathe operation using the TAPE 14: Approximately 2 hours also fashions a new hole end for the main Boley watchmakers lathe and the C&E SUBJECT MATTER: Using an inexpen spring. Marshall watchmakers lathe. sive quartz analog clock movement, Huck abee disassembles the movement and pro TAPE 27: Approximately 2 hours TAPE 4: Approximately 1.50 hours vides an in-depth explanation of each SUBJECT MATTER: Understanding the SUBJECT MATTER: An analysis and work component and their function in the opera antique American clock time train and with the Urgos 21 /42 8-day trapezoid tion of the timepiece. repairs to it and using the Unimat lathe time only clock. to polish pivots. TAPE 15: Approximately 2 hours TAPE 5: Approximately 2 hours SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabee presents an TAPES 28 & 29 SUBJECT MATTER: A demonstration and in-depth discussion on the design of cutting Not available at this time. discussion about drilling the arbor using tool bits, both hand-held and those held Huck's "turning in a box" method and in the tool post rest. Also a discussion of TAPES 30-34: Approximately 2 hours each making a pivot. steel-its composition and characteristics. SUBJECT MATTER: A series of five tapes designed as a teaching exercise which TAPE 6: Approximately 1.75 hours encompasses every facet of lathe work SUBJECT MATTER: A demonstration of TAPE 16: Approximately 1.50 hours encountered in the clock shop. Produced wheel cutting using clear plastic and a SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabee presents in conjunction with a series of drawings Mosley watchmakers lathe. Huckabee cuts an in-depth discussion about hairsprings. which are provided by AWi when you four gears such as those required in the AWi He also demonstrates how to vibrate a clock borrow the first tape in the series. Upon certification examination. hairspring. completion of the work you have a set of excel lent useable lathe accessories for use TAPE 7: Approximately 1.75 hours in your shop. SUBJECT MATTER: The Birge & Mallory TAPE 17: Approximately 1.75 hours Striker Clock-a complete study and anal SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabeegoesthrough TAPES 35 & 36: Approximately 2 hours each ysis of the Birge & Mallory Striker and the the process of making a knurled nut, one SUBJECT MATTER: Two tapes which clock with its strap plates and roller pinions, like those used as hand nuts in Early Amer demonstrate the use of the lathe accessories circa 1841. ican kitchen clocks. He demonstrates a produced in the Series 30-34. This en simple way to knurl the nut. compasses all facets of pivot work encoun TAPE 8: Approximately 2 hours tered in the clock shop. SUBJECT MATTER: Making a great wheel TAPE 18: Approximately 1.75 hours and mounting the great wheel on its arbor. SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabee demon TAPE 37: Approximately 2 hours strates the process of inserting a tooth SUBJECT MATTER: A companion tape TAPE 9: Approximately 1.75 hours into a clock wheel to replace a broken or to the Huckabee book "How to Build a SUBJECT MATTER: Making and fitting a damaged tooth. Regulator Clock." All components and replacement pinion for a clock wheel. details for their construction are discussed in detail. It is recommended that the viewer TAPE 19: Approximately 2 hours have the book at hand when viewing this TAPE 10: Approximately 1.50 hours SUBJECT MATTER: Pivot work in the tape. SUBJECT MATTER: Correcting problems American antique Sessions, count wheel, caused by an elongated pivot hole by bush and clock movement. ing with a solid bushing and the use of a "preacher" to relocate center distance. TAPE 20: Approximately 2 hours TAPE 11: Approximately 2 hours SUBJECT MATTER: Continuation of work SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabee discusses with the Sessions clock used in Tape 19. A DETAILED DESCRIPTION the I BM #J7 Master Clock Movement and Complete restoration work on the move OF EACH TAPE IS AVAILABLE IBM 90 Series Clock Movement. ment and treating a worn great wheel. FROM AWi CENTRAL. June 1990/Horological Times 43 Pickle Barrel Marshall F. Richmond, CMW A BEGINNER'S COURSE IN JEWELRY CRAFTING AND REPAIR SAWING he skill of using the jewelers saw and files is the first Jewelers saw blades are not used like any other saw skill needed in preparation of learning to solder and blades because they must cut on the pull stroke of the saw. Tweld metals. This article will be devoted to the use Therefore, when inserting the blade the teeth should point of the necessary tools in the skill of sawing. The tools needed toward the handle. These saw blades are brittle and break and their approximate current costs are as follows: easily because they are tempered hard enough to cut mild (untempered) steel, so they must be made of steel that is tem 1 saw frame (3" is a good depth) ...... $10.75 pered harder than what it is to cut. By making the cut on the 2 dozen each 3/0 and 4/0 saw blades @ 2.00 ...8.00 pull stroke it is easier to control the saw than if cutting on the bench pin filing block...... 6 .00 push stroke. When sawing, very little pressure should be pair parallel pliers, rough jaw ...... 13.95 placed on the blade on the pull or cutting stroke, and no pres sure on the push or return stroke. The strokes need to be made Approximate TOTAL COST ...... $38.70 in a straight line, for any sideways movement of the frame while in the stroke will usually result in a broken blade. When Materials to be used for practice can be any small sawing a straight line, the saw should be held so the blade is at sheets and rods of copper, brass, or nickel silver, with the sheet a 30-degree angle with the work (Figure 2). For sawing a not over 1 /8" thick and the rod not over 1/4" in diameter. curved line the saw blade should be vertical or at a 90-degree These materials can usually be found at your local hardware angle with the work (Figure 3). This should be enough infor store and the rod can be brazing rod found in the welding sup mation to enable you to get your saw ready to start practice plies section. All the tools listed above can be purchased from cutting. Remember that if you have had no experience sawing, any jewelers supply house. you'll probably break several blades while getting the feel and Let's start with the saw frame. It should be for all developing the skill to use the jewelers saw. jewelry use, 2-3" in depth. Figure 1 shows two saw frames. Another necessity to help hold work while sawing "A" is made with round material on the forward part, while and filing is the bench pin filing and sawing block. Figure 4 "B" is made of flat material. Both have a sliding forward part shows one which is mounted in a metal holder that can be at to be adjustable for different length blades which is held in tached to the front edge of the bench with screws. Special place with a set screw on the handle. Each part has a set screw made jewelers benches have a rectangular hole in the front to hold the blade in place. Standard blade length is 5% inches. edge of the bench that this bench pin can be inserted into Although blades are available in a great range of sizes starting without the metal holder. These pins can be bought separately. with 8/0 (smallest and finest cut) to size 4 (coarsest), I have found that for most jewelry work the 4/0 is the most practical and can be used on gold with the smallest amount of gold loss, yet still be coarse and heavy enough to make the cuts quickly and not break as easily as the finer ones. For learning and practicing on brass, 3/0 blades are listed in the recommended tool list which will even be a little heavier than the 4/0, so will A be faster cutting and slightly more durable. To install saw blades, open both set screws that hold the blade in the saw. Place the front end in first as deep as it will go so that the end can go no farther, and tighten the screw as tight as can be done with the fingers. Next, loosen the slide adjusting screw and slide the front part of the saw B until it is just a Iittle longer than the saw blade. Put the front end against the bench and push with the blade in place in the rear holder. This will spring the saw frame enough to make the blade buckle slightly ; tighten the set screw. Release the pres sure on the saw frame, and if all three set screws are adequate ly tight, the saw blade should be tight. Figure 1. Saw frames. 44 Horological Times/June 1990 Of course, much sawing and filing can be done by holding the When you have cut enough of these strips to be able work in the hands, but it is good to learn to do it this way be to saw a straight line, the next step is to practice sawing a cause it is much faster than using holding devices. It eliminates curve. First take a coin (penny, nickel, or dime) and place it the time spent in using the holding device, whatever it may be: half over the edge of the brass plate and scribe a half circle. parallel pliers, a pin vise, or a jaw-type vise or clamp. These Next with the saw in a vertical position (as shown in Figure 3) devices are available and many times necessary when holding saw out the half circle. This will be a start to learning to cut work that requires longer periods of sawing or filing. They curved and square angle patterns. Continue to practice cutting keep the work from slipping or moving which can cause saw curves by making wavy curves and even sharp angles which can blade breakage or damage to the piece of fine jewelry being also be cut with the jewelers saw. If you look closely at Figure worked. The bench pin pictured in Figure 4 has a "V" cut in it 3 it shows the cut in the metal from the right side of the saw allowing for more versatility in the way work can be held. which has been turned at a right angle and is ready to continue With the bench pin and the jewelers saw ready to use sawing forward. This is done by turning the plate while moving it would be well to start to practice sawing. A piece of brass the saw, and can be done without breaking a bl.ade after enough plate that is 1-1Y, to 2 mm thick is a good thickness to use for sawing skill has been developed. practice. To make it easy to handle, a good size will be 2-3" Another project that needs to be practiced is done wide by 3-4" in length, 1 mm in thickness, and will be easier using a piece of brass rod about 1/4" in diameter in about to saw than metal of heavier thickness. 2 ft. lengths, and can be purchased as brazing rod from anyone To begin, scribe a line parallel to the edge about selling welding supplies. This amount will be enough to last 4 mm wide and the length of the practice brass plate. Hold it you through learning and probably as long as you are doing on the filing block flat and start to saw, keeping the saw on a jewelry repair. To start with, cut off a length of about 6". straight line as shown in Figure 2. If you are inexperienced The way to saw th is and have the end turn out square is to with the jewelers saw, you will no doubt break more than one constantly rotate the rod while sawing. The next challenge is blade before getting the 4 mm strip sawed. to split this about 2Y," in length and cut off making two pieces of half round 2Y," long and a piece of 1/4" rod 3Y:,'' long. All these strips and pieces can be saved, for they will be useful when in later lessons you will be practicing filing and solder ing, as well as shaping and bending. One of the tools that I have found to be particularly useful in sawing is a pair of parallel pliers (Figure 5). These come in smooth and rough jaw pliers and being parallel hold uniformly thick metals better than other pliers. These will hold pieces of metal which are too small to hold with the fingers. For metal that has not yet been finished or polished, I use the rough jaw pliers, and for polished metal I have made a pair of copper slip covers that go over the jaws, which are as soft or softer metal than that which is being worked so it will not mar, scratch, or dent it. (Please tum to page 47) Figure 2. Practice sawing. Note saw is held at about a 30-degree angle and the bench pin is inverted to allow it to slant downward from the bench, making it easier to saw a straight line. Figure 4. Bench filing pin that can be mounted on edge of bench. Figure 3. Practice sawing. Note saw is held in a vertical position and the bench pin is positioned with the flat (horizontal) side up for sawing curves. Figure 5. Parallel pliers. June 1990/Horological Times 45 BOOK REVIEW THE HISTORY OF CLOCKS AND WATCHES by Eric Bruton, Aked's review in 1980 in the NAWCC's Bulletin, or this re 288 pages, 9x11%", hard covers, 440+ illustrations, many in viewer's first report (also in 1980) in AWi's Horological Times color. Reprint of 1979 Edition. Pub. 1989 by Crescent Pub. (July issue, p. 49). @ $15.95. Henry B. Fried This book is a reprint of the 1979 edition which originally sold for $75.00. While the paper is a bit thinner than that in the original edition and some of the photos' colors are not as HOROLOGICAL HINTS AND HELPS by F.W. Britten. Hard true, this book is still a very good buy for the price. covers, 375 pages, 158 b&w line drawings. First pub. in 1929; The book is filled with very readable material, and its 4th edition pub. in 1943; revised in 1973; reprinted in 1988 author is a very well-known author and editor/publisher, for by Antique Collectors' Club@ $25.00. merly of the British Horological Journal and the Retail Jewel ler (Britain). F .W. Britten followed F .J. Britten and produced this book 16 The style of presentation follows the known parade years after F.J. Britten's death. It has been reprinted many of horological development, including the sun dial, Aztec times, and to those who are unfamiliar with this volume an calendar and plates, the obelisks, water clocks with automaton, examination of its pages done in various reviews still proves it Su Sung's 10th century water clock "escapement," and the impressive in its contents. Within its 375 pages are many use hour glass. ful hints and helps very nicely illustrated. There is even a short This is followed by the introduction of the mechan treatise on the making of a seconds beating pendulum regula ical clock, Giovanni Dondi's astronomical clock of the mid- tor, going into more detail than F.J.'s earlier edition. Both 14th century, and many others that followed with added watches and clocks are covered as are various types of escape complications if not with precision timekeeping. That giant ments. step in timekeeping-the pendulum-is included with many Since this book covers a great deal in its 375 pages early examples. with its many expositions of repair methods of timepieces Numerous excellent drawings of escapements and made before its first edition, it makes this an authoritative other sections of clocks by David Penny certainly dress up this source of methods to serve such timepieces in the manner best book. The probable advent of the mainspring and thus the suited to their earlier manufacture. portable timepiece is recalled in text and with photos. "Time Henry B. Fried at Sea," the heading of one chapter, deals with the solution and trials of each of those striving for that grand prize, oft retold in other books. CLOCKS AND WATCHES, AMERICAN, EUROPEAN AND The invention of the lever escapement and later JAPANESE TIMEPIECES by Alan Smith. Hard covers, 6x8%", watches by Breguet and other innovators and contributors to 222 pages, 400 b&w drawings, 26 in color, reprint of 1975 the march of horology are recounted. original by the Antique Collector's Guides. The book depicts many types of English, European, and American mass-produced timepieces and some illustra Alan Smith is a well-known art historian and teacher. He is tions of factory production. This continues up to the period of equally known to horological collectors for his book, "The the caesium clock. Lancashire Watch Co., Prescott" and has lectured both in the Wristwatches are also included, with engravings of United States and in England. early factory scenes. The "Science of Time" is a 30-page re The format of this book is in all fine professional line tel Iing of the astronomical contributions influencing the clock drawings of the most typical timepieces found in the broad and watchmaker. A final chapter, "Great Clocks of the World," field of horological collecting and in museums. Also, there are includes Stonehenge as a timekeeper of sorts with text to ex eight color plates of various additional items whose detail and plain. The great clock in the Houses of Parliament with its case-dialwork are enhanced with color. In all there are over great bell "Big Ben" is shown in some early engravings which 400 illustrations of such watches, clocks, tools, equipment, are always interesting reading. This last chapter also deserved sundials of various types, escapements, sand glasses, clock and ly includes Jens Olsen's most complicated mechanical clock in watch parts, pendulum types, pulley arrangements, the stack Denmark. freed, fusee, maintaining power system, as well as various A good glossary and an excellent index completes striking and chiming mechanisms. There are watch movement this book. For the knowledgeable horologist there is little types such as the Lepine, three-quarter plate "ebauches" new, though Mr. Bruton is a superior writer and researcher. by country of origin, escapements, chronometer balances, and For the average collector and horologist, though, it has a wealth various types of hairsprings. Also shown are watch pendant of good information, despite some few errors. Those desiring and case types, small watch parts-making engines, fusee cut an exhaustive critical review of this book might refer to Mr. ters, depthing tools and wheel cutting, as well as barrel groove 46 Horological Times/June 1990 machines. Drills of all types and broaches, screw plates, taps amples of hallmarks are shown. The author of the article ex and dies are found here as well. plained they were used to show the country of origin, type The drawings are most accurately made by the artist of material, and grade of material used in the fabrication of Peter F itzjohn, and he has caught even the most involved de various watch cases. tails of timepieces, making this a fine reference against which The technical level of writing in International Wrist to check when buying a clock for its completeness or genuine watch is not as advanced as Horological Times or even the ness. NAWCC Bulletin. However, it must be remembered this maga The illustrations are augmented by two columns per zine was developed for a much wider audience. There were page of text under each illustrated item. The book is arranged numerous beautiful and high quality color photographs (there in ten sections. These are: items of primitive timetelling; are no black and white photos) throughout the magazine. clocks, watches, and tools; mechanical clocks before 1550; These photographs were of complete watches and watches in early renaissance clocks and watches ca. 1550-1650; classical various stages of disassembly. The detail found in all the pho English horology, 1650-1740; English rococo and neoclassi tographs more than compensates for the depth that the pub cism, 1740-1800; English electicism in the 19th century, lisher uses to explain the various aspects of horology in the 1800-1900; American clocks and watches, 1780-1900; contin published articles. ental Europe and Japan, 1675-1900; and modern clocks and Considering various magazines on the market today watches, 1900 to the present day. that encompass our trade, a subscription to International A fine seven-page index aids in finding individual Wristwatch is a must. It is far more useful to the horologist items. A good bibliography has included books from the pens than various jewelry magazines on the market. If you enjoy of authors the world over-America certainly not neglected. seeing fine timepieces, you'll enjoy this magazine. For the average collector it is well recommended. This should help identify a clock and something of its history or explain Jerry M. Fugich the general details of a museum item or one offered for sale at auction. The author has not ventured into placing price estimates. It contains good information and pleasant reading. PICKLE BARREL Henry 8. Fried (Continued from page 45) Here are some tips on making sawing easier and pos sibly faster. Use a small piece of beeswax on the saw blade as a INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH, bi-monthly publication, lubricant-this will make it saw easier and often cut faster. Ap about 100 pages, illustrated with color photographs and draw ·ply the beeswax to the edge of the saw blade opposite the teeth which is smooth; coat only the sides and not the teeth. ings, 814x10'h", published by Hallmark Publications, Ltd., This will provide the lubrication necessary to make the saw London @ $35.00 per year. operate smoothly. If it is applied to the teeth it will fill the teeth and cause the saw to slide over the metal rather than to Hallmark Publications has introduced a well-written and cut it- until enough heat is produced from the friction to beautifully illustrated magazine that can be enjoyed by the cause it to melt. professional and amateur horologist, in addition to those who In choosing a saw blade to fit the work the hardness just enjoy watches and clocks for their artistic beauty. Prior of the metal being sawed can be considered. Coarser teeth can to being introduced in the United States, International Wrist be used for softer metal and finer teeth for harder metal. In watch was published in Italy for three years. The publishers doing jewelry work, 6/0 blades are the finest that I use, and saw another market for their magazine and decided to publish then only for working very small objects such as ring prongs an English translation. or very narrow grooves when setting small stones. The coars est that I have are 2/0which I use when working silver or other The articles cover several aspects of our trade. Instead soft and less expensive metals where the loss in sawdust does of being just another "art deco" jewelry magazine, the re not cause a concern. In sawing steel with a jewelers saw it is viewed issue showed its commitment to the watch trade, best to only saw mild (low carbon) or tool (high carbon) covering various subjects relative to horology, such as: crafts that has not been tempered or that has been annealed and is men, technical aspects of watchmaking, collecting of unique dead soft. Trying to saw tempered steel will just dull the teeth watches, and an overview of where the watch industry is and won't make much of a cut in the steel. going. Although the title infers just the coverage of wrist Using a holding device such as parallel pliers or a ring watches, the publisher has made a commitment to include clamp has a distinct advantage over a stationary vise, for it articles on clocks and pocket watches. allows more versatility by being able to move the work with A very interesting article on "Early English Clock the hands as well as the saw which also teaches coordination of the two hands. Hand sawing is a very definite skill, and using makers" gives the reader some insight into the roots of our the jewelers saw it is well to take advantage of every oppor trade as well as the political climate of Europe during the 16th tunity to develop it to proficiency. century. The climate induced the clock and watch trade to Next month's article will be a lesson in filing and move from Germany and flourish in both England and Swit shaping. The right way to perform any work is not necessarily zerland. the way that I or any other person does it-even though it is An article on hallmarks explains to the reader the rea the right way for us. The right way for you is how you can ac sons why they were developed and their origins. Several ex- complish the same result and be comfortable while doing it. June 1990/Horological Times 47 ROCK QUARRY Fred S. Burckhardt A ''TIP'' ON A FRIEND could never understand people who make unkind hundreds of kind letters I receive each month more than remarks about others. I guess it's just because I've make up for the unkind things he's said. Just to prove how never been that way myself. When I was very young nice people can be I'm going to reach into the box full of was taught that if you couldn't say something nice about letters sitting next to me and copy the first one I pick out: someone else, don't say anything. I've tried to adhere to this throughout my life. Dear Mr. Burckhardt: The only reason I'm bringing this up is because of a Each time 1 receive a copy of Horological Times I look for certain person from North Carolina, who, by the way, writes your column and read it first. You don't know how much it a column in Horologi.cal Times. I said "writes a column," brightens my day. It takes a very intelligent person to write but actually people write to him and he copies whatever articles like yours each month. I don't know how much they they say and then adds a little quip which is about as funny pay you but they should at least triple the amount. Keep up as having arthritis and St. Vitus dance at the same time. the good work. Several times he has said things about me and my Your wzfe work which has really hurt my feelings. This last time took the cake. I've been so worried about the remarks he made Now another one to show you I do have people who write. that I've only been able to sleep 12 hours at night. He forgets the things I've done for him in years past. Deer Phredd, How about the time I took up a collection to buy Eye engoy reedin the stuff yoo rite. Pleeze dont ever stop as him a pair of shoes? He never knew that people outside of iye look frowerd to it everry month. his town wore them all the time. He's forgotten the time we Yoor /rend in NC were to attend a convention in another state and I found him in the airport, cowering in the corner of the baggage claim As you can see, I have a very large following. Everywhere area. I took him by the hand and took care of him the whole I go throngs of admirers want my autograph or wish to have weekend and then saw to it that he got on the plane for the their picture taken with me. Heaven only knows how hard trip back to his home. I even took the time to print his name it is to stay humble. and address on a badge and pin it to his coat. He forgets I only hope the person I was referring to will see the the time when he was president of AWi and I had to knot error of his ways and realize that I am just one heck of a nice his ti~ and tie his shoes as he never learned how because guy. they don't wear either in his hometown. He doesn't remember I must close now as I only have a half hour to make the times I've stood up for him. For example, the time some the prayer meeting. You can be assured I will mention a one said he wasn't fit to sleep with the pigs, and I stood up certain person's name. for him and said he was. Thank goodness not everybody is like him. The 48 Horologi.cal Times/June 1990 ASSOCIATION NEWS COLORADO The Colorado Clock and Watchmakers Guild March meeting program was presented by Mr. Ben Spann, a member of the UPCOMING EVENTS National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors. He demonstrated and discussed the proper use and handling of Watchmakers Association of Ohio a most useful and versatile clock tool, the mainspring winder. 44th Annual Convention After the meeting Mr. Spann answered questions July 27-29, 1990 from the members which turned into a round-table discussion. Parke University Hotel - Columbus, OH Nebraska & South Dakota Jewelers Association 85th Annual Convention NORTH CAROLINA August 17-19, 1990 The Golden Triad Watchmakers Guild of the North Carolina Watchmakers Association held the following programs at Kearney Ramada Inn - Kearney, NE recent meetings. A tip sharing meeting was held in November. Members explained their best tips in watch and jewelry repair. Central Illinois Watchmaker's Association Tips were also given for specific problems presented at the Annual Convention meeting. In January a "ladies night" supper meeting was October 19-21, 1990 held. The guest speaker was Magistrate C. Albertson. He The Sheraton - Normal, IL explained the duties, legal rights, and considerations in serving the public. The February and March meetings were planning Florida State Watchmakers Association sessions. The guild has decided to host an annual auction. Annual Convention The location, responsibilities, and date were finalized. Notices October 26-28, 1990 will be prepared and sent to all North Carolina members. Holiday Inn Airport - Tampa, FL The Coastal Plains Guild is the host of the annual state convention. Each of their meetings have consisted of planning and finalizing sessions. Eric Parris, convention year book chairman, reported on the advertisements, speakers, progress of the printer, and current status of the book. The meeting several questions from the AWi Questions & Answers March meeting was held at Alice and Buddy Carpenter's in Quartz Watch Repairing are studied in detail. Each question home, with a covered dish dinner. The guild has challenged its is used as a lesson in basic electricity and quartz watch repair. members to become AWi certified quartz technicians. At each Your AWi membership card signifies that you WarCHMAms lmmun are entitled to the many services offered by your 1990 association. However, we must have the correct tu Certify that information from your card to be able to serve you most efficiently. .IOBH A. 1>0£ 000 SllTH ST. JIOIBERE, Oft 12345 This illustration points out the important, coded information on the right side of your membership card. Always use your AWi mem bership number when corresponding or order Membership ing from AWi. Number Certification Type of Numbar Certification June 1990/Horological Times 49 New Products and Literature NEW VIDEO TAPE to traditional blister packs and KASSOY OFFERS ON USE OF THE help increase profits through AUTOMATIC COUNTERFEIT KRONOGLASS more efficient use of allocated MONEY DETECTOR The American Perfit Crystal Cor space, fewer out-of-stocks, and Cashscan, a microprocessor-con poration has announced the re lower handling costs. trolled detection system, is now lease of its latest video tape Eveready Battery Company available from Kassay. The sys "The Kronoglass." The Krono is the world's leading producer tem works on U.S. currency . glass produces finished, tempered, of batteries, manufacturing and After inserting the bill in the de mineral glass crystals via a panto distributing more than 500 power tector, either a green or red light graph style operation. This nine and lighting products. will come on along with an audi minute video shows the viewer ble tone to indicate if the bill is how to set up, make use of, and authentic or a probable forgery maintain the Kronoglass machine. WITSCHl'S VERSATILE in less than% second. Measuring This video is the first step for any MECHANICAL WATCH AND 8-3/4"x5-1/8"x2-1/2", the unit CLOCK ANALYZER one who has considered purchasing Eveready works on 110 or 220 volts, comes this machine. It is available The new Wicometre High Tech with an adaptor, and will also through your local watch material from Witschi sets entirely new operate on batteries for portable distributor. been used to control certain standards for the testing of me use. There is a one-year warranty electrochemical reactions within chanical watches and clocks. on parts or labor- It is model the battery which produce en For the watchmaker, a MS250, and retails for $250.00. EVEREADY INTRODUCES ergy. Eveready's proprietary graph of the watch beats is in For more information, LOW-MERCURY ENERGIZER technology allows it to lower the dispensable for troubleshooting. contact Kassay, 16 Midland Ave., AND CONDUCTOR BATTERIES mercury content without affect The Wicometre High Tech displays Hicksville, NY 11801; (800) 4- The Eveready Battery Company ing the long-lasting performance this graph on an LCD graphic KASSOY; in NY state (516) 942- has announced that it has sig of the battery. The company says screen; the noisy recording on a 0560. nificantly reduced levels of mer it has increased the service life of paper strip is obsolete. cury in its alkaline battery prod its Energizer brand batteries by To get the numerical ucts. The technological develop 50 percent over the past decade values of the rate variation and ment results in the industry's first while lowering the content of beat error, an evaluation of the 99.975 percent mercury-free mercury present in the batteries. graph is no longer necessary. alkaline battery and represents Eveready says it is working These values as well as the ampli the most dramatic move in on technology that would elimin tude are automatically displayed. Eveready's 10-year strategy to re ate the need for mercury alto The analyzer also features: duce the mercury content of its gether. user selectable resolution for the batteries. "Environmentally con graph magnifier; variable mea The mercury reduction in scious consumers now can buy suring time; automatic gain con the most popular-sized Ener alkaline batteries which last as trol; automatic selection of the gizer® and Conductor® brand long, cost the same, and deliver number of beats for all current batteries addresses concerns over the same amount of power as watch types, manual selection for the long-term impact of heavy batteries they are used to-but any special number of beats; metals in the environment. Al which have the added value of printout of the results (optional); Kassoy though waste studies have failed contributing less mercury to the headphones to hear the mechani to show significant traces of mer environment," said J. Patrick cal workings of the watch, as well cury stemming from disposed Mulcahy, Eveready chairman and as the option to see the sound by batteries, concern over the g:obal chief executive officer. means of an oscillogram on the ELECTRONIC release of metal chemicals into "This battery is the latest graphic screen. SECURITY CATALOG the environment prompted the step in a program of mercury For additional informa Electronic security systems and company to pursue technology reduction we started 10 years tion, contact: Witschi Electronics accessories for do-it-yourself that would lessen its mercury ago," Mulcahy said. "There is USA, Ltd., P.O. Box 2, Palmyra, installations are the main prod output. little question that reducing mer NJ 08065-0002; (800) 882-7977. ucts described in this 32-page In the past decade, Ev cury at the source is a sensible eready has led the U.S. battery and good course for the industry. industry in the reduction of mer In that respect, we hope other - ' ::i cury in its alkaline batteries, battery manufacturers will fol gradually lowering the mercury low our lead." present in the battery by 97 Eveready also has an percent, to .025 percent of bat nounced the introduction of tery weight in the new genera shrink-wrap packaging that will tion. reduce the volume of packaging Mercury traditionally h;is material by 70 percent compared Witschi 50 Horological Times/June 1990 catalog. Written to make high in a vast assortment of shapes and The accuracy is, therefore, the tech security systems simple to head diameter sizes. same as the standard except for understand, this catalog covers a Fine cut burs, which come a delay in signal reception of 1 broad range of systems to meet in 22 different shapes, and finish millisecond (1/1000 second) for residential, commercial, and ing burs, available in 7 shapes, are each 186 miles distance from the government needs. both used by jewelers for finish station. Ranging from simple no ing work on precious metals, mild The clock requires one wire home alarms to the latest steel, bronze, copper, and other penlight battery for 12 to 18 computer-based building access metals which do not clog up. months' operation and otherwise management systems, this catalog Coarse cut burs come in 10 dif requires no attention whatever. describes burglar alarm systems, ferent shapes and are for use on The unique features include a motion detectors, glass protec wood, mild precious metals and time zone offset for all U.S. time tion, switches, fire detectors, alloys which tend to clog such as zones (the station time is GMT) sirens, notification systems, aluminum. Nine different acrylic and quartz operation of the move CCTV, building access systems, cutters are used for finishing work ment during poor reception peri vehicle alarms, special tools, and on acrylic materials, and 7 steel ods. Kienzle radio clock security books. Helpful installa burs are for work on annealed The clock can benefit the tion and product selection tips precious metals and alloys tending horological trade both as a regu can also be found throughout. to clog. lator and as a sales item. For fur Vantage Point Techno This new line of jewelers ther information, contact: Kienzle logies serves government, busi burs joins the family of other Time, Inc., 100 Honing Rd., P.O. nesses, and individuals wishing to Foredom accessories which in Box 98, Fox Lake, IL 60020- buy direct and perform their own cludes: aluminum oxide and sili 0098; (708) 587-1001; fax (708) installation. Interested readers con carbide mounted points; rub 587-7640. may obtain a free copy of the cat ber-bonded abrasives; ruby car alog by writing: Vantage Point vers; diamond points, discs and Technologies, 630 Nordahl Rd., wheels; vanadium steel burs and Suite P9, San Marcos, CA 92069; cutters; carbide burs; felt and cot- (800) 272-1357; (619) 565-1863. · ton buffs; tungsten carbide burs; sanding accessories; brushes, and drills. Foredom now offers more than 1,600 different accessories for the Foredom Flexible Shaft Power Tool. For more information on the Swiss burs or any other Fore dom product, contact: The Fore dom Electric Company, Route 6, Bethel, CT 06801; (203) 792- 8622. Vantage Point Technologies Bulova introduces a new solid brass mantle clock, reminiscent of classic pieces from the Art Deco period. 600 NEW SWISS JEWELERS The graceful hour and minute hands are attached to a small BURS FOR FLEXIBLE circular brass dial suspended within a transparent glass crystal. Its SHAFT POWER TOOLS spun-brushed brass bezel etched with Roman numerals at the hour An extensive new line of Swiss positions provides the time with quartz precision. jewelers burs has been added to Foredom Electric Co. The clock is attached to a semi-circular ring and mounted the diverse selection of acces onto a polished solid brass base. The clock face is movable and can sories for its flexible shaft power KIENZLE RADIO CLOCK be tilted on the mounting ring for perfect viewing from any loca tools by the Foredom Electric This new clock from Kienzle tion. It operates on a AA battery, which is included. Company. These Swiss-made burs Time, Inc: is actually synchro The model illustrated is B1760, and has a suggested retail are manufactured from the finest nized by the radio signals from price of $195.00. For more information, contact: Bulova Corpor quality hardened tool steel, have the National Institute of Standards ation, One Bulova Ave., Woodside, NY 11377; (718) 204-3300. a 3/32" shank capacity, and come Time Station in Ft. Collins, CO. June 1990/Horologi.cal Times 51 News in the Trade L & R MANUFACTURING Games in Albertville/Savoy, CELEBRATES 60 YEARS France, 1992. This was recently L&R Manufacturing Company is announced by the International celebrating its 60th Anniversary Olympic Committee. this year. The company, long In commenting on the noted for its leadership role in selection, John L. Davis, President the manufacture of ultrasonic of Longines-Wittnauer Watch Co., cleaning equipment, solutions, New Rochelle, NY, noted: "This and accessories for a wide range continues a long tradition of of industries, is beginning a year Longines Sports Timing." He add long series of promotions to cele ed that "the integrity of timing brate its "diamond anniversary." the events is assured because Part of the celebration will Longines is the leader in de be the company's new line of veloping the most sophisticated ultrasonic systems named the timing equipment ... to one/ten Ouantrex Series. These new ma thousandths of a second, if need chines feature a comprehensive be." warranty and a host of other user Longines has been Official benefits. Timekeeper of the Winter and L&R was started by Max Summer Games since 1952, and Lazarus in 1930 and quickly be since 1981 has also been Of came a leader in cleaning tech ficial Tim er of the Formula I SEIKO TO TIME NEW YORK CITY MARATHON nology. Three generations later, Ferrari Grand Prix race. Seiko will be the official timer of the New York City Marathon. Robert Lazarus and his father After the official signing of Seiko's new three-year contract, Shigeho James are continuing the leader Kurashina (left), president of Seiko Corporation of America; Fred ship roles started some 60 years GIA OFFERS FOUR Lebow (center), president of the New York Road Runners Club; ago. Today, L&R manufactures COURSES IN PEARLS and David Strousse {right). assistant to the president, Seiko Corpor a complete range of ultrasonic The Gemological Institute of ation of America, pose for a photograph. cleaning systems from standard America (GIA) is currently countertop models to custom offering four kinds of training in systems. There are also products pearls: A home-study pearls niques, the course is recommend tion, Ms. DiCarlo will be respon such as the Aqua Torch and a course, a one-day extension sem ed for jewelry designers and sible for the continuance and ex full range of accessories. inar, a home-study course in pearl for jewelers who want to be able pansion of the company's exten In announcing the anniver and bead stringing, and a two-day to add a necklace and restringing sive military and incentive business sary, James Lazarus, President of pearl and bead stringing seminar. service without sending jobs out. as well as the growth of the firm's L&R, stated, "commencing in The home-study Pearls All tools and materials are pro College Marketing Program. April, we will begin a year-long course covers buying and selling vided. Ms. DiCarlo brings to Bul promotional/celebratory cam pearls, GIA's grading system for The Pearl & Bead String ova a wealth of experience in sales paign designed to excite our cus cultured pearls, how to relate ing Seminar is a hands-on work and sales management in the watch tomers about our 60th year of beauty and quality to value, and shop providing a two-day over industry. She has had three years doing business. Promotions will how to boost cultured pearl view of the basics, as well as more as Manager of Gruen Marketing include trips, prizes, sensational sales by explaining these factors intricate, creative techniques. Corporation's Military and Pre opportunities for everyone who to customers. For more information on mium/Incentive Division. Prior does business with L&R. And, of The one-day Pearls seminar these courses, call toll-free (800) to that, Ms. DiCarlo worked with course, we will be introducing and consists of lab work on pearl 421-7250, ext. 292. Outside the Pulsar Time for eight years in unveiling a great many new prod grading for color, luster, nacre U.S., call (213) 829-2991, ext. Special Markets. ucts and services. At the top of thickness, shape, spotting, and 292. Or write: GIA Registrar, the list is our new unheralded make. No previous training is Dept. PR01, 1660 Stewart St., warranty which everyone will necessary. Successful completion P.O. Box 2110, Santa Monica, surely take notice of. We are de satisfies the practical grading re CA 90406. lighted that many of our original quirement for the home-study customers are still doing business pearls course. with us 60 years later." Designed to capitalize on ELLEN DI CARLO the growing popularity of bead JOINS BULOVA jewelry, the Pearl & Bead String Ellen DiCarlo has been named LONGIN ES TAPPED ing correspondence course is Vice President-Military/Incentive TO TIME 1992 GIA's newest offering in a series and Award Sales for Bulova Cor WINTER 0 L YMPICS of study-at-home courses in the poration, recently announced by Longines has been selected to jewelry arts. Supplemented by Paul Sayegh, Bulova's Executive time the 16th Winter Olympic videotapes of the described tech- Vice President. In her new posi- 52 Horological Times/June 1990 Classified Ads REGULATIONS AND RATES Ads are payable in advance $.60 per word, $.70 per word in bold type. Classified display ads are $25.00 per column inch, 2%" wide. Ads are not commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. Price lists of services will not be accepted. Confidential ads are $4.00 additional for postage and handling. The first of the month is issue date. Copy must be received 30 dLJys in advance (e.g. June issue closed for copy on May 1st). HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 Phone (513) 661-3838 CUTTERS cycloidal for clock wheels and CUSTOM CLOCK AND WATCH PARTS Tradesman pinions. Module 0.2 to 1.0. Constant profile MADE. Gears, pinions, balance staffs, barrels, producing traditional square bottomed teeth, etc. Quality watch restoration done on antique 104 sizes. Escape cutters: recoil (set of seven and high-grade watches. Fast turnaround time. FULL SERVICE TRADE SHOP sizes), dead beat (set of four sizes). Ratchets All work guaranteed. KIM'S WATCH REPAIR, Expert jewelry repair, ring sizing, chain sol 60° and 70°. All cutters made in 8% cobalt 2633 N. Decatur Road, Decatur, GA 30033. dering, diamond setting, stone replacement, M42 High Speed Steel and heat treated under Over 46 years experience in watch and clock custom work, casting, pearl stringing_ All vacuum. Also cutter grinding wheels, Grit and repair field. Member A WI & NA WCC. work guaranteed. Fast turnaround. Contact CBN. Send for Information Sheet, prices and Michael Carter, Micah's Jewelry, 300 Citadel order forms to: P.P. Thornton (Successors), Mall, Charleston, SC 29407; (803) 571-4340. Ltd., Horological Cutter Makers, The Old Bake TIMING MACHINES-NEW AND REFUR house, Upper Tysoe, Warwickshire, CV35 OTR, BISHED. Quality Service and Repair. DON England. HOLDEN , Box 56, Penna. Furnace, PA 16865. Cylinder escapements restaffed in platforms Call (814) 692-2285. and watches. Wheels, pinions, barrels or what ever repaired or made new. Write for shipping CUSTOM BALANCE STAFFS cut and fitted. instructions. Ken Leeseberg , RR 4, Box 286, Since 1922. James Bourne, CMW, P.O. Box QUALITY WATCH CRYSTAL FITTING. Fast P.O. Box 436, Montello, WI 53949. 215, Ladysmith, WI 54848. Phone (715) Service-Expert Crystal Fitting-New and Old 532-3166. Styles. KIRK CRYSTAL CO., 4th & Pike Bldg., Suite 823, Seattle, WA 98101; (206) 622-7639. Genuine CITIZEN crystals fitted, 1,000's in stock. Send complete case to: Larry Blanchard Service Co., CITIZEN Agency, 1821 Roosevelt CLOCK WHEEL AND Rd., Broadview, IL 60153; (708) 681-2369. PINION CUTTING POCKET WATCH CASE REPAIR - Bezels, hinges, springs, dents, etc. HARRY MAZAR, Fast service - Write for free Brochure Tick-Tock Specialties, 308 N. McLeansboro St., CLOCKS: gearcutting, retoothing, repivoting, and price list. Fendleys, 2535 Himes Benton, IL 62812. Phone (618) 439-6995. rebushing, jeweling. REPAIRING: timers, air St., Irving, TX 75060. (214) 986-7698 craft clocks, antique clocks, pocket watches. Send sample for estimate. NIEGELS HORO LOGY, Roy Niegel, CMC, CMW, 101 E. St. Joe CLOCK and MUSIC BOX parts, mainsprings, Drive, Spirit Lake, ID 83869. SASE or call DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, material and tools. Custom made to order or (208) 623-4330. FINEST QUALITY, quantity works welcome. repair of gears, pinions and parts. Catalog Specialize on changing dial feet positions to $2.00. TANI ENGINEERING, Box 338, fit the quartz movement. Send your works to: Atwater, OH 44201; (216) 947-2268. NEW SWISS QUARTZ MOVEMENTS CUSTOM KIRK DIAL OF SEATTLE, 4th & Pike Bldg., FITTED to Diamond, Gold, Antique, Senti Suite 625, Seattle, WA 98101; (206) 623-2452. mental Watches and Pocket-all sizes. Rolex, Omega, Longines, Lecoultre, Girard Perregaux, SHIP'S CHRONOMETERS restored. Complete Bulova, Elgin, Gruen, Accutron, Hamilton, AIRCRAFT CLOCK SPECIALIST. Buy, Sell, stock of PARTS FOR HAMILTON 21. Dewey Movado. Service and Quartz Conversion_ Repair. R.T. KING, CMW, 1515 Sales Yard Clark, 12150 Harford Rd., Glen Arm, MD ALFONSO ZAMORA, 280 Presidio Place, Road, Emmett, Idaho 83617. 21057; (301) 592-3617 between 6 & 10 p.m. Buffalo, New York 14221; (716) 633-6138. (EST). Watch wheel cutting . repivoting and staffing. ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT SERVICE PRECISION Tl.\ll-TLCH WE ARE FACTORY AUTHORIZED SERVICE FOR : WE CAN MAKE ANY PART Sl'nit"l' ;11 1d rn1or:11io11 ol J< oli..• \. Pia~t' I. Paid\ l'hilippt·. * VIBROGRAF/PORTESCAP WE CAN RESTORE ANY WATCH \a l'l1 t·ro11 ·l'ons1;1111 i11. \ 111 ique pod,t' I \\ atd1t•s a "Jlt't'iall) . S\\ i.s ... · lralllt'd m:.i .... IL'T \\;l[cl1rn;1ker. Roll'\ Ct' rl ifit·U. ('u-.111111 • TICK-0-PRINT/L&R Free estimates. references on request. p;iri llla11ulal'IUrt·. I \jH't.liC'lll ,\t'nict• aml proft·,.-. jo11 ;.i J WE SERVICE ALL MAKES OF ULTRASONICS AND OTHER expedient services a~ provided. SASE for brochure. WATCH·RATE RECORDERS AND EQUIPMENT 411;ili1y . \II uork lull) guar:i11lC't'LI. JACK PHILLIPS e ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE WATCH & CASEMAKERS, LTD. PRECISION TIME-TECH 24 LA GOMA AVENUE MILL VALLEY. CA 94941 140 N. 7th Ave .. P.O. Box 1314 1125 L;1url'I SI reel. S;111 Carlo'. C .\ 'l.J070 FOR INFORMATION CALL: (415) 381-1338 Highland Park, N.J . 08904 I.+ 15 I 595-933.J Tel. 201 937·5611 June 1990/Horological Times 53 Classified Ads .------~ O'ile------Articles for Sale BAIT·TRgNIC. 1tt1etl 1Patclt 'JncJvelll~J!_U 2 Florida Way Lonaconing, MD 21539 AMERICA'S FULL LINE PARTS FOR REPAIR OF PRE-1980 BATTERY DISTRIBUTOR Mr. Watchmaker - If you have a prob BREITLING NAVITIMER CHRONOGRAPHS lem finding parts for older watches, badly rusted or damaged beyond repair, Airmailed price list. $2.00, cash only. H.G. we may be able to help you. We have Wajs, Bederstr. 77, 8002 ZURICH, SWITZER lots of movements for parts at reason LAND. WATCH able prices. Some suitable for replace ment. If not satisfactory you may re- turn. Lots of used watch movements for Elgin, Phone(301)463.U595 Gruen, Bulova, Hamilton, Illinois, Hampden, CLOCK and all Swiss. Suitable for parts or replacement. Donald Kroker, 4325 N. 5th Street, Fresno, CA 93726. ------ALSO----- PHOTO • HEARING AID ALKALINE • RECHARGEABLE Situations Wanted W. German Carbide Steel Dental Burrs. Six assorted, $5.00 ppd. Myron Palay, Room maxell EVEREADY TOSHIBA 145-146, 4242 Lorain Ave., Cleveland, OH WATCHMAKER with 31 years experience 44113-37 81. REN AT A Panasonic seeks employment in the Milwaukee, WI area. Experienced on quartz, mechanical, TIMEX SEIKO RAftWAC complicated, and high grade-any brand names. BE ALL THE CLOCKMAKER YOU CAN BE! Contact John Reimann, 8702 W. Portage St., Thornton Cutters in stock. KEN LAW, CMC, Milwaukee, WI 53224. H.C. 30, Box 825, Prescott, Arizona 86301. [·='~COAR NATIONWIDE•PR•VI: 1-800-431-2828 BULOVA SCHOOL WATCHMAKING GRAD N.Y. State: 1·800-942-1944 Fax: (914) 359-3436 UATE seeks employment in Florida, 50-mile CUCKOO CLOCK AND BIRD Mon ·Fri. 9 AM·7 PM Eastern Time radius of Ft. Lauderdale. Contact Richard CAGE BELLOWS MATERIAL Lazevnick, (718) 939-5414. Save time, money, and work re-covering bellows. Easier than replacing. For infor mation, send business-size S.A.S.E. to: WATCH TECHNICIAN with 10 years ex POCKET WATCH GLASS CRYSTALS perience in all aspects of watch repair seeks JANDi GOGGIN Most sizes and types available. For prices and Box 175H, Huntington, NY 11743-0175 employment in Boston, MA or surrounding order blank, phone (201) 912--0038 or write areas. Owns all hand tools and· testing equip (SASE please): The Crystal Box, Box 682, ment. Contact Billy Best, 621 Stevenson St., Short Hills, NJ 07078. Lafayette, LA 70501; (318) 235-8740 (leave NEW Electronic Timing Machines message). MINI QUARTZ MOVEMENTS. Guaranteed lowest prices-as low as $2.30. 2-yr. guarantee. Large selection of hands and numerals. Free delivery. SASE or call (704) 333-0221. HALL Help Wanted CLOCK SHOP, 1512 Central Ave., Charlotte, NC 28205. CLOCKMAKER/WATCHMAKER wanted for newly established retail clock and watch shop * TIMETRAX 600 Wrist & Pocket Watch GREENHILL CLOCK SERVICE in Washington, D.C. metro area. Full or part Timer: Measures & displays watch trains in vi 941-D Broadway, El Cajon, CA 92021 time. Call collect (703) 860-3585 or write to brations per hour, Calculates gain or loss in PARTS AND SERVICE HEADQUARTERS John Wyatt, 12321 Folkstone Dr., Herndon, Sec/day. Over 40 preprogrammed trains: 7200- FOR SCHATZ, KUNDO, KOMA, KERN, VA 22071. 36000 /hr. Highly stable TCXO timebase. HALLER, HERMLE, NISSHINDO. MECHAN Complete w/watch holder & pickups ...... $595 ICAL - QUARTZ - ELECTRONIC - CIRCUIT BOARDS - MAINSPRINGS - SUSPENSION EXPERIENCED WATCHMAKER who wants * TIMETRAX 400 Clock Timer: Measures & SPRINGS and MOVEMENTS, ETC. to semi-retire in Florida and work 3 days per displays clock trains in vibrations per hour, Extended timing range for 400 day & Atmos week; (305) 792-6536. clocks, Balance mode aids in setting movement in beat. Complete w/pickup ...... $395 WATCHMAKER - Immediate position avail able for full or part-time person. Experience *TICK TECH 195 Clock Timer: Measures Timing interval between ticks in milliseconds required. Write or call: Lentz House of Time, and Beats/Minute. Portable, battery powered, 712 N.W. 23rd Ave., Gainesville, FL 32609; complete w/pickup ...... $225 Round, oval and rectangular to (904) 378-9323. Custom and Standard Sizes. All units made in USA, 1 yr. warranty, complete Also Watch-Stands. with instructions & reference tables. Send 3 Send for List. Enclose $2.00. SEEKING experienced watchmaker/jeweler for stamps for info & our new 1990 Catalog of Reynolds GmbH unique business opportunity within major, Horological Literature. P.O. Box 1628 national department store's watch & jewelry ~...... -~...... , D-2110Buchholz, W. Germany ~ Adams Brown Co., Box 357, --...L.._ _ _..... Phone: OJI 49 4181 5582 service shop on Florida's west coast. Call for ~ Cranbury, NJ 08512 (609) 655-8269 0 details (813) 846-6205, Monday-Saturday 9: 30- Fax: OJI 49 418139347 6: 00. 54 Horological Times/June 1990 WATCH REPAIR PERSON-Immediate posi ATIENTION WATCHMAKERS! Small ad, tion available. Experienced with mechanical Miscellaneous higher prices! We need your old watches, or quartz watches, up to $1000/week. (313) cases, and movements. Absolute highest prices 559-5329. paid for Patek, Vacheron, Rolex, chronographs, NATIONAL TIMEKEEPERS FESTIVAL Curvex, Le Coultre, unusual Hamiltons, mint Sunday, September 30, 1990 9 am to 5 pm boxed comic character, and anything unusual. WATCHMAKER/CLOCKMAKER experienced Veterans Memorial Hall 300 W. Broad St. Jewelers' Row Money Loan, 107 S. 8th St., on high-grade and complicated watches, clocks, Columbus. Ohio Admission $5.00 Philadelphia, PA 19106; 1-800-562~788. and also quartz. Call Bernie, Sears Watch Re Large variety of clocks and watches. Dealer pair, (408) 238-1122, ext. 386. space available. For information, COLUMBUS WANTED: Unusual American pocket watches/ WATCH COMPANY, 3280 Riverside Dr., Suite movements. I buy entire collections, estates, 18, Columbus, Ohio 43221; (614) 459-7469. watchmakers' inventories. Over 25 years experience of honest and reliable confidential transactions. JON HANSON, Box 5499,Beverly Schools Hills, California 90210; (213) 826-7778. Wanted to Buy JOSEPH BULOVA SCHOOL SCRAP WANTED 40-24 62nd St. Woodside, NY 11377 STUDENT JUST OUT OF SCHOOL NEEDS • Gold - up to 97% of market Phone (718) 424-2929 EQUIPMENT. Watchmaking, clockmaking, and • Watch Batteries - cal I for quote jewelry equipment. B200, engraving machine, • Plated Watchbands - $12.00/lb. Quality Instruction Since 1945 6.. hand tools, cases, just about everything! Thomas •Gold Filled Bands - $27.00/lb. Leander, (612) 646-9680. • Gold Filled Watch Cases, etc. - $5.50/oz. • WATCHMAKING Also: • Optical Frames (17 months) • 10k, 14k, 18k Jewelry • WATCH REPAIR We pay 97% of market for karat gold scrap • Bench Sweeps (9 and 13 months) (any amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, • Filters, Buffing Waste • JEWELRY REPAIR sweeps, silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hout • Bench Dust • BASIC ELECTRONICS payment return mail! Ship insuced/reg.istered POSTAGE AND UPS REIMBURSED Ideal Housing. Dining, Recreation mail to: AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, Call 1-800-426-2344 NATTS approved, BEOG available 253 King St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. In Connecticut (203) 372-0481 Established 1960. Phone (803) 722-2073. SPECIAL TY METALS REFINING COMPANY 10 Bay Street Unusual Pocket Watches & Wristwatches Wanted. Especially Patek Philippe, Howard, Illinois, Wal Westport, CT 06880 tham, Cluonometers, Strikers, Moonphase, Tour Books bil!ons, Virgules, Karrusel, Musicals, Historical, and Solid Golds. Early American watches a specialty. CHIME CLOCK REPAIR by StevenG. Conover. Need not run. Call TOLL FREE 1-800-231-BUNN or 913-383-2880. Maundy International, P.O. Box New! Detailed drawings and repair instructions 13028H, Overland Park, Kansas 66212. for New Haven, Junghans, Kieninger, Hermie, Seth Thomas, and many more. Also contains Watch~ Wanted chime melodies, solutions to common prob lems, and the author's method for assembling and adjusting chime movements. Available WANTED only from the publisher, Clockmakers News letter, 203 John Glenn Ave., Reading, PA Watchmaker's Tools 19607. Hardcover, 210 pages, $28.50 postpaid. Casting Equipment Jewelry Store Inventory Gold Filled Scrap AMERICAN REPRINTS CO . We desperately need for our retail Bench, timer, lathe, engraver, cleaning ***REVIEWED BOOKS*** machine, hand tools, material and customers fine watches by: (See page 46 this issue) crystal systems, buffer, ring sizer, Rolex, Patek Phillippe, Audemars Piguet, THE HISTORY OF CLOCKS & WATCHES by Eric Bruton ...... $15.95 vulcanizer. New unsold mechanical Vacheron & Constantin, Movado, Gubelin, etc. and old broken or unclaimed wrist and HOROLOGICAL HINTS AND HELPS by We are paying top prices for any high F.W. Britten ...•.•...... $25.00 pocket watches and clocks, neon quality, unusual or complicated ********************* clocks. Gold settings, diamond rings, Wrist or Pocket Watches VIENNA REGULATOR CLOCKS by Rick G.F. jewelry, etc. Watch bands, G.F. Ortenburger. This is one of the few books cases, and optical frames. When You're Ready to Sell a Fine Watch available on this subject in English. It covers the years 1780-1930, w/price guide, 180 pp., Call/Write for Schedules Call us Toll Free 1-800-842-862 5 348 pies ...... $39.95 AVON METAL In Texas 1-214-902-0664 THE MARINE CHRONOMETER by R.T. Gould, w/some new pies, 300 pp ... $59.50 SERVICE LTD. Always prompt immediate payment! Wingate's Quality Watches SCANLON/AMERICAN REPRINTS CO. P.O. Box 17484 - (414) 351-0933 P.O. Box 379 Modesto, CA 95353 P.O. Box 59760 • Dallas, TX 75229-1760 (209) 667-2906 Milwaukee, WI 53217 June 1990/Horological Times SS Dates to Remember Ad Index JUNE 1990 10-12-Advanced Clock Repair Bench Course American Perfit Crystal Corp_ .. .. 4 (AWi); John Kenyon, instructor; Boston, 10-Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch MA.* Bergeon & Cie . . 31 Repair Bench Course (AWi ); James Borel Co ... • . 9 Adams, instructor; Nashville, TN.* 12-Retrofitting, Casing & Coil Repair Bench Course (AWi); James Broughton, in Cas-Ker Co. Inside back cover 16-20-Advanced Complicated Watch Seminar structor: Portland, ME.* (AWi ); Radisson Inn, located at Greater Charles Cleves . . . . . 13 Cincinnati Airport. Contact AWi Central 12-AWI Northeast Regional Seminar; Toronto, Conover & Quayle •• 27 for more information . Canada.* Davis Jewelers Supply - 29 19-21-Research & Education Council Annual 15-Retrofitting, Casing & Coil Repair Bench DRS, Inc...... 7 Meeting; Radisson Inn, Greater Cin Course (AWi ); James Broughton, in cinnati Airport. Contact AWi Central structor; Springfield, MA.* Esslinger, Inc. . Inside front cover for more information . Eveready Watch Batteries Back cover 17-19-Nebraska & South Dakota Jewelers 22-AWI Affiliate Chapter Meeting; Radisson Association 85th Annual Convention; Gem City College . . . . . Inn, Greater Cincinnati Airport. For Kearney Ramada Inn, Kearney, NE. . • 27 information contact AWi Central. 18-19-Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench J & S Jewelers Supply, Inc. • . 27 23-AWI 's 30th Anniversary Celebration; Rad Course (AWi); Gerald Jaeger, instructor; isson Inn, Greater Cincinnati Airport. Indianapolis, IN.* (COURSE IS FULL) S. LaRose, Inc... . 19 For more information contact AWi Livesay's, Inc.. . 25 Central. 19-Retrofitting, Casing & Coil Repair Bench L&R . .. 3 Course (AWi); James Broughton, in 23-24-lowa Jewelers and Watchmakers Asso structor; Rochester, NY.* c1at1on Fall Show and Convention; Maxell . 11 Des Moines, IA. For information (515) 25-26-Cuckoo Clock Repair Bench Course 270-1729. (AWi ); James Williams, instructor; Pitts On Time Supplies. . 21 burgh, PA.* 24-AWI Annual Board of Directors Meeting; Ray Gaber Co .. . 29 Radisson Inn, Greater Cincinnati Air SEPTEMBER 1990 port. Contact AWi Central for more Swigart Co ... . 15 information. 7-9-Advanced Clock Repair Bench Course (AWi); John Kenyon, instructor; Detroit, Toledo Jewelers . . . 17 Ml.* JULY1990 Twin City Supply ... . 10 8-9-Cuckoo Clock Repair Bench Course (AWi ); 13-15-Advanced Clock Repair Bench Course James Williams, instructor; Trenton, Vibrograf USA Corp .. . 23 (AWi); John Kenyon, instructor; Roch NJ.* ester, NY.* Witschi Electronics USA. 13-16-lntermountain Retail Jewelers 29th An . 17 14-15-Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench nual Convention; Resort Center Lodge Zantech, Inc...... 5 Course (AWi ); Gerald Jaeger, instructor; and Inn; Park City, UT. For informa Reno, NV.* (COURSE IS FULL) tion: (503) 889-2566. 14-15-Cuckoo Clock Repair Bench Course 14- Retrofitting, Casing & Coil Repair Bench (AWi); James Williams, instructor; Chi Course (AWi); James Broughton, in cago, IL.* structor; Fargo, ND.* 13-14-400-Day Clock Repair Bench Course (AWi); John Nagle, instructor; Baltimore, 21-25-Jewelers of America's 1990 Fall Inter 15-16-lntroduction to the Watchmaker's Lathe MD.* national Jewelry Show; Javits Con Bench Course (AWi); Jim Lubic, instruc vention Center; New York, NY. Infor tor; Phoenix, AZ.* (COURSE IS FULL) 13-14--Cuckoo Clock Repair Bench Course mation: Jewelers of America, Rocke (AWi); James Williams, instructor; Salt feller Center, 1271 Avenue of the 15-16-400-Day Clock Repair Bench Course Lake City, UT.* Americas, New York, NY 10020; (212) (AWi); John Nagle, instructor; Cincin nati , OH.* 489-0023. 19-21-Central Illinois Watchmakers Associa tion Annual Convention; The Sheraton; 27-29-Watchmakers Association of Ohio 44th 16-AWI South Central Regional Seminar; Normal, IL. Annual Convention; Parke University Dallas, TX.* 21-Retrofitting, Casing & Coil Repair Bench Hotel; Columbus, OH. 30- The National Timekeepers Festival, pre Course (AWi); James Broughton, in sented by The Columbus Watch Co.; structor; Pittsburgh, PA.* 29-30-Chicago Jewelry Show; Expocenter, Veterans Memorial Convention Center; Chicago, IL. Information: Marcia Bunch 300 W. Broad St., Columbus, OH. 21-AWI Northwest Regional Seminar; Denver, man (217) 522-2409. 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission $5.00. CO.* For information: Columbus Watch Co., 3280 Riverside Dr., Suite 18, Columbus, 26-28-Florida State Watchmakers Association OH 43221; (614) 459-7469. AUGUST 1990 Annual Convention; Holiday Inn Air port; Tampa, FL. OCTOBER 1990 4.£-Heart of America Jewelry Show; Double *For more information on AWi Bench Courses tree Hotel; Overland Park, KS. For more 12-14-Advanced Clock Repair Bench Course and Regional Seminars contact AWi Central, information contact Sharon Blair (913) (AWi); John Kenyon, instructor; Win P.O. Box 11011, 3700 Harrison Avenue, 661-0084. ston-Salem, NC.* Cincinnati, OH 45211; (513) 661-3838. 56 Horological Times/June 1990 SAVE! BRAND MINERAL GLASS CRYSTALS 25 PC ASST 50 PC ASST 125 PC ASST CONTAINS ONE EACH : CONTAINS ONE EACH: CONTAINS ONE EACH OF EVEN 19.0 19.5 20.0 21.0 22.0 19.0 19.1 19.5 20.0 20.5 21.0 SIZES FROM 14.0 TO 35.0 (110 21.5 22.0 22.5 23.0 23.5 24.0 PIECES), PLUS ONE EACH OF .5MM 23.0 23.5 24.0 24.5 25.0 24.5 24.9 25.0 25.1 25.5 26.0 SIZES FROM 20.5 TO 34.5MM (15 25.5 26.0 26.1 26.5 26.9 26.1 26.5 26.6 26.9 27.0 27.4 27.0 27.5 27.9 28.0 28.1 27.5 27.9 28.0 28.1 28.2 28.3 PIECES), FOR A TOTAL OF 125 DIFFERENT SIZES. 28.5 29.0 29.1 29.5 30.0 28.4 28.5 28.6 28.8 28.9 29.0 29.1 29.2 29.3 29.4 29.5 29.6 PROVIDES A COMPLETE SELECTION THIS ASSORTMENT CONTAINS THE 29.8 29.9 30.0 30.5 31.0 31.5 32.0 32.5 OF MINERAL GLASS CRYSTALS. 25 MOST POPULAR MINERAL GLASS ASST. CKX125 -125 PIECES CRYSTALS. ASST. CKX25 - 25 PIECES SCREW DOWN CROWNS CRYSTALS 5.3 &6.0mm STAINLESS $17.00 Cyclops #101 thru #145 $17 .50 YELLOW $30.00 Tropic #1 thru #48 $15.50 I *,. ,1 7.0mm STAINLESS $30.00 YELLOW $52.00 IN STOCK #295C Sapphire Crystals $98.00 CALL TOLL FREE 1-800-543-0408 OHIO 1-800-582-8027. $15 MINIMUM WATS ORDER INQUIRIES 513-241-7073. FAX 513-241-5848 2121 SPRING GROVE AVE. CINCINNATI, OH 45214 e JANET LEACH Senior Technical Assistant It's immediately apparent Eveready® Battery Company's ents, she transfers that Evereadj' Technology Laboratory that Janet Leach loves her Westlake, Ohio Research enthusiasm and energy to Westlake, Ohio work. One can hear it in her facility. some favorite pastimes. voice and see it in her Janet is currently completing Among those are sports (rac actions as she demonstrates requirements for a Bachelor of quetball as a player and soccer the capability of the Scan Science degree in chemistry. as a spectator). She also ning Electron Microscope that When she isn't casting a crit enjoys reading and collecting has been her responsibility ical eye on mega-magnified classic movies on video. for the past four years at Eveready® battery compon- •••• Eveready®watch batteries Microscopist Janet Leach, a and components are subject I 0-year Eveready® employee, ed to countless tests and says that much of her work evaluations to assure their involves magnification up to reliability and dependability. 2000 times a battery's origi Surely one of the most unfor nal size. However, if more is giving of these is the search required, it is available. "Our for flaws under the Scanning microscope,'' she says, with Electron Microscope. a tone of awe in her own voice, EVEREADY® WATCH BATTERIES Exceptional quality and dependability, the result of a sophisticated ""'"'ii;;;;~ manufacturing process, a high degree of technical expertise and people dedicated to making the difference.