If It’s Tuesday, This Dive, Captain, Dive Watch Lingo Must Be... Travel Time Dive Watches
a special guide to fi ne watches and jewelry
DOING THINGS DIFFERENTLY
Cover_2012 6 11/15/12 3:56:52 PM Untitled-21 2 10/19/12 12:01:37 PM Untitled-21 3 10/19/12 12:01:52 PM THE NEW HAWK COLLECTION SEA HAWK 1000 METERS
Steel and rubber case, screw-down case back, Girard-Perregaux automatic mechanical movement. Hour, minute, small second, date and power reserve indicator.
GIRARD-PERREGAUX BOUTIQUE 701 Madison Avenue, New York Tel. 646-495-9915 | www.girard-perregaux.com
Untitled-2 2 11/13/12 1:41:43 PM THE NEW HAWK COLLECTION SEA HAWK 1000 METERS
Steel and rubber case, screw-down case back, Girard-Perregaux automatic mechanical movement. Hour, minute, small second, date and power reserve indicator.
GIRARD-PERREGAUX BOUTIQUE 701 Madison Avenue, New York Tel. 646-495-9915 | www.girard-perregaux.com
Untitled-2 3 11/13/12 1:42:00 PM 47/ 7/2,$ 2%#/2$3 5,4)-!4% $)3#2%4)/.
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Untitled-7 3 11/14/12 11:28:57 AM 8 Editor’s Letter 10 If It’s Tuesday, This Must Be... Making sense of time zones with fantastic watches. 14 Dive, Captain, Dive A look at the year’s best dive watches.
FP Journe Chronomètre 20 Optimum Doing Things Differently The best watchmakers can’t leave well enough alone.
Editor-in-Chief Keith W. Strandberg 30 Watch and Jewelry Editor Sophie Furley production & Creative director Ed johnson Watch Lingo designer christie wright The key parts of a fine timepiece. photo editor peter lettre
advertising/production coordinator lisa medchill
Publisher 32 Betty Shaw Lederman
TAKING A BEATING Sports watches can do just about anything. Observer Media Group
Publisher Jared Kushner
President Michael Albanese 36 Executive Vice President Barry Lewis Lady’s Choice Marketing and events director zarah burnstein Swiss watchmaking takes a female turn. Marketing director deborah brundy Senior Vice President Sales and Marketing david gursky
Director of Classified Advertising 39 Ken Newman V.P. Circulation kratos vos The Perfect Timepiece circulation Finding and buying the right watch for you. alexandra enderle, peter parris, Carlos rodriguez,
THE NEW YORK OBSERVER 321 West 44th Street New York, NY 10036 212.755.2400 www.observer.com
6 the collector winter 20102012
6_TOC.indd 6 11/15/12 2:50:20 PM BALL_NYObserver_GCT_2012Collectors.pdf 1 11/12/2012 2:20:37 PM
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Engineer Master II Grand Central Time Limited Edition of 999 pieces Automatic - 44mm
Commemorating the 100th year anniversary of the Grand Central Terminal
BALL Watch USA www.ballwatch.com Tel: 727-896-4278
Artisans Alcove Cape May, NJ | Salkin’s Jewel Case Freehold, NJ | Arlington Jewelers Nutley, NJ | Eli Adams Jewelers Rochelle Park , NJ | Orologio Short Hills, NJ Desires By Mikolay Chappaqua, NY | London Jewelers Greenvale, NY | Bassano Jewelry New York, NY | Central Watch New York, NY | Kenjo Jewelry New York, NY Las Americas New York, NY | Manhattan Jewelers New York, NY | Ask Design Olean, NY | Corwin Jewelers Southampton, NY | Rose Jewelers Southampton, NY
Untitled-2 2 11/13/12 1:47:32 PM OUR PERSPECTIVE OF TIME
hy is our day split into 60 seconds in a minute, 60 minutes in an hour, 24 hours in a day, and 365 days in a year? We certainly could divide time up any way we want, but our world functions because everyone agrees to the time standard we now have. The measuring of time is a purely human-made construct, and we have been trying to perfect timekeeping since the beginning of ... well, time, fi rst with sand, fi re and water, and now with mechanical and quartz watches and atomic clocks. WWe didn’t always measure time the 24/7/365 way, however. Early Roman calendars had only 304 days and the earliest calendars in China and Greece had years with 354 days. Ancient China originally broke the day up into 100 “Ke” (quarters), each equivalent to 14 minutes and 24 seconds. Just about everyone accepted the Gregorian calendar in 1752, and when the British Parliament implemented it, 11 days just disappeared from the year (September 3-13, 1752), in order to realign with the new calendar. So, even though our system of timekeeping can seem a bit arbitrary, it’s necessary for our society to function. And, a watch is one of the true tools of our lives, something on which we depend every single day, to keep us on schedule. In addition to being a tool, however, a watch can provide a glimpse into who we are and what we value. Wear a rugged dive watch and you are saying one thing about yourself; wear an elegant, complicated timepiece and you are saying something completely di erent. The great thing is that we can wear any watch we want anytime we want, depending on how we feel and where we are going. Thank goodness for our system of timekeeping and for watches. I hope you enjoy this issue of The Collector and Happy Holidays! Patek Philippe Ref. 5940 Men’s Grand Complication Keith W. Strandberg, Editor-in-Chief
8 THE COLLECTOR WINTER 2012
8_Letter.indd 8 11/15/12 3:09:19 PM HAUntitled-5 1102_12 1 LordTaylor_TheCollector.indd 1 11/13/1211/13/12 4:02:54 3:55 PM Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5131J
IF IT’S TUESDAY, THIS MUST BE...? Making Sense of Time Zones with Fantastic Watches
IF YOU TRAVEL REGULARLY, or if you do is di cult at the best of times and almost business with companies in other time impossible when jet lagged. zones, you understand that fi guring out That’s where time zone watches, also what time it is in di erent parts of the known as dual time, multiple time zone, world can be a real challenge. world time or GMT/UTC watches, come in. Trying to do this with an ordinary, single These watches display time in other time time zone watch is challenging, involving zones, so all you have to do is look at the mathematics and mental gymnastics, which dial to see what time it is wherever you are.
10 THE COLLECTOR WINTER 2012
10_Timezone_2012.indd 10 11/15/12 3:25:12 PM Untitled-13 1 11/15/12 9:24:52 AM Piaget Polo FortyFive Perpetual Calendar
Hamilton Khaki Automatic UTC
Jacob & Co. H24 Five Time Zone Automatic
Bvlgari Papillon Voyager
Seiko Astron
Zenith Pilot Doublematic
A LITTLE HISTORY the world started keeping time by this use half-hour deviations from standard In 1884, the International Prime system. In 1972, the majority of the world time, and some nations, such as Nepal Meridian Conference was held in adopted Coordinated Universal Time and some provinces, like the Chatham Washington D.C. to standardize time (UTC), and now o cial time zones are Islands, use quarter-hour deviations. and select Greenwich, England as zero indicated by +/- UTC rather than GMT. The countries with the most time degrees longitude (the Prime Meridian), There are, however, some parts of the zones are Russia and the United States, which established the 24 time zones we world that divide time di erently than with nine standard time zones each. use today. The U.S. government o cially originally conceived. Newfoundland, Two large countries, China (which adopted standard time on March 19, Iran, Afghanistan, Venezuela, Burma, the should have fi ve time zones) and India, 1918. By 1929, most countries around Marquesas, as well as parts of Australia, only have one time zone.
12 THE COLLECTOR WINTER 2010
10_Timezone_2012.indd 12 11/15/12 3:26:47 PM Making Sense of Travel Time
Hamilton Khaki Automatic UTC
DUAL TIME: A watch with two time indications, one for local time, one for home time.
GMT: A watch that has a separate pointer hand indicating GMT/UTC.
Bell & Ross BR03 GMT
Tutima Grand Classic Ball Engineer Master II Grand Chronograph UTC Center Terminal (GCT) Limited Edition MULTIPLE TIME ZONE WATCHES: A timepiece that can display more than two time zones.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN pointer hand to point to the second standard 24 hour time zones. There are A TIME ZONE WATCH time zone or to GMT/UTC (which you even a few that display the additional There are a number of ways that can then use to calculate any time zone half-hour time zones as well, which is timepieces accomplish displaying more in the world if you know the UTC o set, a very complicated feat. Before you than one time zone, and the one that e.g. New York City is UTC –5). buy, make sure the watch you choose suits you best depends on how many Some watches can display more is readable—with some world time time zones you need to track. Dual time than two time zones. Three time zone watches, you need a magnifying glass watches use two dials, one above the watches are popular, while displaying to see the di erent time zones. other, while others use a small sub-dial more than three can be a challenge, With a world time/dual time/ WORLD TIME: A watch that displays on the main dial, which indicates home unless the watch is huge. GMT watch, you have a much better the standard 24-hour time zones (and time, allowing you to set the bigger If you are a serious world traveler/ chance of mastering the time zones, sometimes the irregular time zones). display to the time where you are business person, consider a world and these watches look really good staying. GMT watches use a separate time watch, one that displays the on the wrist. From top to bottom: Piaget Polo FP Journe UTC Franck Muller Master Banker (three time zones) Girard-Perregaux ww.tc Dark Knight
THE COLLECTOR WINTER 2012 13
10_Timezone_2012.indd 13 11/15/12 3:26:21 PM DIVE, CAPTAIN, DIVE
Girard-Perregaux Sport SeaHawk
14 THE COLLECTOR WINTER 2012
14_DIVE_2012.indd 14 11/15/12 3:31:56 PM Entirely invented and manufactured in- house
fpjourne.com
Tourbillon Souverain - Ref. TN Collection Boutique Remontoire and dead beat second 18K solid Gold movement Red Gold case and black dial
THE BOUTIQUES
NEW YORK 721 Madison Avenue, NY 10065, +1 212 644 5918, [email protected]
PARIS GENEVA MIAMI TOKYO BEIJING HONG KONG
Collector_TN_btq_254x305_GB.indd 1 07.11.12 10:19 Untitled-1 1 11/7/12 1:47:03 PM Pierre Kunz Diver
dive 1 (dv) v. dived or dove (dv), dived, div·ing, dives 1. a. To plunge, especially headfi rst, into water. b. To execute a dive in athletic competition. c. To participate in the sport of competitive diving. 2. a. To go toward the bottom of a body of water; submerge. b. To engage in the activity of scuba diving. c. To submerge under power. Used of a submarine.
ive watches are without giving it a second thought. incredibly popular Additionally, wearing a dive watch today. But why? Is sends a message that the wearer is a it because so many man or woman of action, even if the people are heading watch never gets anywhere near the for the shore to plunge to the murky Titanic. Ddepths searching for sunken treasure? Fifteen years ago, dive watches were Not hardly. cheap, plastic, quartz watches. The First and foremost, dive watches are leaders were Japanese companies rugged, attractive, beefy timepieces. who built quartz watches with features Big watches are very much a fashion divers demanded. Then, the high-end statement today, and dive watches are Swiss brands started to get into the Hamilton Khaki Navy GMT routinely the biggest of the big. act (well, in reality, the Swiss pioneered Secondly, you can do just about the diver’s watch, but lost out to the anything in a dive watch and not worry Japanese as quartz came into vogue). about harming it. If you are wearing Suddenly, extreme water resistance a dress watch, you have to be careful became an attraction and the Swiss to remove it before your shower companies put their research and or the spray from the showerhead development teams to work, resulting could compromise its case. With a in some of the greatest looking dive dive watch, on the other hand, you watches ever made. When companies can shower, jump into the hot tub, like Jaeger-LeCoultre, Girard- dive into the depths of the ocean, go Perregaux and Rolex get involved, you from a warm house to a cold slope can bet that the watches that result
16 THE COLLECTOR WINTER 2012
14_DIVE_2012.indd 16 11/15/12 3:32:24 PM Bvlgari Diagono XPro
Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Nedu
Alpina Diver
Bell & Ross BR02 Chrono Tutima DI 300I
THE COLLECTOR WINTER 2012 17
14_DIVE_2012.indd 17 11/15/12 3:32:56 PM Blancpain 50 Fathoms
will be hard to beat. These watches with extreme or turned accidentally to indicate more extreme. Will anyone ever need a What qualifies water resistance are really feats of time left underwater. Being in the sea is 1,000-meter depth-rated watch? No, as a dive watch? engineering, incorporating special seals life and death, so a unidirectional bezel but in order to withstand this type and often helium release valves into can be a last ditch backup lifesaver. of pressure, the watch needs to be A watch has to have certain good-looking designs. Having such a In addition, dive watches are designed constructed differently than other characteristics to qualify as a tool used piece of engineering art on your wrist is to be extremely clear and readable watches. And it stands to reason that by divers. Most dive watches are not quite impressive, and it certainly makes under the water, featuring lots of this makes the watch more durable for meant as the primary regulator of time a statement. luminosity and big numbers and the long run. under water; they are usually used as A chronograph is nice to have on a hands. This aids in the watch’s overall You can wear these great diving backups, in case other systems, like the dive watch in order to time dives and readability on land, a functional tool watches to the office, then wake up on electronic dive computer, fail. decompression. It’s the rare watch, that oozes capability and attitude. Saturday morning, play your favorite One of the biggest factors in however, that allows the diver to use sport, wash off the sweat and dirt, and determining whether a watch is a true the chronograph pushers underwater, Extreme Diving, then feel just as proud and comfortable dive watch is water resistance. Anything as this can compromise the seals Everyday Wear showing your watch off at the local less than 200 meters is not good enough, and water resistance. Ball, Omega, night club. while some extreme dive watches offer Jaeger-LeCoultre, Graham, Blancpain Today’s diving watches are attractive 500 meters, 1,000 meters and more, even and Bvlgari (along with a few others) enough to be your everyday watch. Though many of the dive watches up to 11,500 meters. Even though a diver make chronographs that can be used Unlike in the past, when sports watches sold may never get wet, they are the can never dive to these depths, it’s cool underwater. were ugly, black plastic toy-looking epitome of cool. A dive watch on your to have something that can go to depths Most dive watches come with watches, these new diving watches wrist says that you can conquer the that could crush a human being like a unidirectional bezels, a backup time look great. Many times, it’s about depths and that you can look danger in soda can and still keep ticking. measurement tool that can’t be misread having the features that qualify as the eye and laugh.
18 the collectoR winter 2012
14_DIVE_2012.indd 18 11/15/12 3:33:47 PM VINTAGE COLLECTION
TM
?FK Untitled-2 2 11/13/12 1:44:50 PM DIFFERENTLY The Piaget Emperador Coussin Tourbillon Automatic features an ultra-thin movement and the micro-rotor on the dial side, alongside the fl ying tourbillon. 20 THE COLLECTOR WINTER 2012 20_DIFFERENTLY.indd 20 11/15/12 3:38:23 PM DOING THINGS DIFFERENTLY ne of the greatest things about the watch industry is that the best watchmakers will not leave anything well enough alone. They are never satisfi ed with what they have, but rather they are always looking to make things better, to improve the “little things,” to establish better timekeeping performance, to create more aesthetically pleasing designs, to use more robust or attractive materials and much more. As a result, the best watch companies are always looking for ways to do things di erently and to Ofi nd solutions never thought of before. DESIGN How involved could watch design be? A case, hands and numbers/markers and, bingo, you have a watch... Thankfully, there is way more to the process of watch design than this. Watch designers have been working since the inception of the watch industry on new shapes and designs for cases, hands, numbers, fonts and more. Attention to detail is the key to getting the design right. It’s surprising how big a di erence a small change can make - this dial with those hands, in that case with this fi nishing. It’s a delicate balance, one that watch companies agonize over as they make sure that every detail is absolutely perfect. The Girard-Perregaux Bi-Axial Tourbillon mixes traditional elements with modern styling and materials, like a tourbillon that revolves on two axis and Diamond Like Carbon-treated titanium for the case. THE COLLECTOR WINTER 2012 21 20_DIFFERENTLY.indd 21 11/15/12 4:15:34 PM WW1 HEURE SAUTANTE PINK GOLD · With power reserve · Limited edition of 50 pieces · Bell & Ross International +33 (0)1 73 73 93 00 [email protected] · www.bellross.com Untitled-30 2 10/31/12 1:10:47 PM Untitled-30 2 10/31/12 1:11:34 PM The Blancpain Villeret Traditional Chinese Developed for the Queen’s Calendar timepiece Diamond Jubilee this year, the combines the hour and Backes & Strauss Regent Diamond minutes with the main Jubilee features two rows of indications of the Chinese stunning diamonds, and it comes Calendar (traditional on a royal purple strap. double-hour indication, day, month with indication of leap months, signs of the Chinese Zodiac, as well as the fi ve elements and the 10 celestial stems). Incorporating high precision technology (the High-Performance Bi-axial Escapement with constant force, double barrels, natural deadbeat seconds and more) into a beautiful design, the FP Journe Chronométre Optimum is a breakthrough in high watchmaking. The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon DeepQUEST, developed for free-diving World Champion Guillaume Néry, is water- resistant to 3,000 meters. Fitted with gas micro tubes, the DeepQUEST is visible in the total darkness of the depths. DISPLAYING TIME The hour-, minute- and second-hand layout is the standard in watches, but watchmakers are constantly trying to shake things up and fi nd a better, or at least a di erent, way to display time. There are some very traditional variations, like the jumping hour and the regu- lator, which have been around for centuries. Today, however, watch designers are coming up with ever-more interesting ways to show the time (like moving belts, spinning disks and more). Sure, these watches take some getting used to, but after a day or two on your wrist, you’ll adapt and reading the time will be a snap. 24 THE COLLECTOR WINTER 2012 20_DIFFERENTLY.indd 24 11/15/12 3:39:09 PM BRILLIANT MYSTERY DIAL jacobandco.com 38mm 18k White Gold Case +1.212.719.5887 Baguette Cut Diamonds 48 East 57th Street Satin Strap with Diamond Buckle New York, NY TheCollectors.indd 1 11/12/12 5:24 PM Untitled-2 2 11/13/12 1:48:40 PM Using a jaw-dropping seven barrels, the Jacob & Co. Rose The Patek Philippe Ref. Gold Quenttin provides 31 days 5180 features an ultra- of power reserve, along with a thin automatic skeleton vertical tourbillon. movement with hand decoration. The Bell & Ross Turn Coordinator The Osirec Horus combines Swiss turns traditional watch design watchmaking with Egyptian- on its ear, drawing inspiration inspired designs. from the Turn Coordinator in an airplane’s cockpit. MATERIALS Carbon fi ber, German silver, Zanthium, Namibian, petrifi ed palmwood and meteorite... these are just some of the materials being used on and in watches today. Sure, steel, gold and titanium are available too, but even these have cool coatings, fi nishes and colors. 26 THE COLLECTOR WINTER 2012 20_DIFFERENTLY.indd 26 11/15/12 3:39:35 PM Untitled-21 1 10/19/12 12:00:29 PM Hamilton’s Ventura Lady takes an award-winning design fi rst launched in 1957 (and worn by Elvis Presley), updates it and makes it supremely feminine. The Bvlgari Carillon Tourbillon Not only is the tourbillon in the combines a tourbillon with a Franck Muller Thunderbolt the Carillon Minute Repeater, in a biggest in the industry, powered very modern design. The Minute by the two barrels at the top of the Repeater is actuated with the slide dial, it is also the fastest, rotating on the left side of the case. one turn every fi ve seconds! Tutima’s Grand Classic Chronograph is a traditional pilot’s chronograph with a daring red dial. PERFORMANCE Even though a mechanical watch might never equal the stellar performance of a quartz watch, that doesn’t mean that watchmakers have stopped making their watches more precise. Double tourbillons have been paired with chronographs, and even standard movements are being tweaked to make them as precise as possible. Many watchmakers sit back on their laurels, mentioning timekeeping competi- tions won more than a hundred years ago. But, a new chronometry competition held in Le Locle, Switzerland has been instituted, allowing watch companies to put their money where their mouths are when it comes to precision. The fi rst Interna- tional Chronometry Competitions were won by Jaeger-LeCoultre, Greubel Forsey and Tissot. There’s never been a time in the history of watchmaking where, across the board, quality has been as high as it is now. And to their credit, watch companies are not done tinkering or making things better. 28 THE COLLECTOR WINTER 2012 20_DIFFERENTLY.indd 28 11/15/12 3:39:59 PM GNJ Observer 11-2012 Issue FPG Showroom:Layout 5 11/7/12 12:19 PM Page 1 NOWAVAILABLEWITH ALL-WHEEL DRIVE. WE’VESOLDMORE JAGUARSTHANANYONEIN THEWORLD,SINCE1938. XFR... Itʼs a compelling blend of Class, comfort, technology, performance; sophisticated highway cruiser and ferocious the car that best strikes a balance among them back-road“ bruiser, wrapped in a handsome set “ (without competing with your mortgage payment,) of clothes. Arguably, itʼs the best looking car in Itʼs class, i.e., that group of sedans with more is quite possibly the Jaguar XF Supercharged. horsepower than youʼd ever really need. Road & Track ” Car and Driver ” GreatNeck Jaguar 1-877-399-9891 GreatNeckJaguar.com Untitled-1 1 11/7/12 1:45:11 PM Key Parts of a Fine Timepiece As you become more interested in watches, you will need to become familiar with the specialized language of fine timepieces. Here is a guide to what you can see from the outside. 24 Hour inner Bezel Worldtime Ring Running Seconds Hour Hand Case DECORATION hour Indices Swiss Made indicating the country of origin Chronograph hours totalizer Lugs Shown here: Ball Trainmaster Worldtime Chronograph 30 the collectoR winter 2012 LINGO.indd 30 11/15/12 3:42:02 PM Second Hand Chronograph hand Chronograph minutes totalizer Start/Stop Pusher Day of the Week Aperture Date Aperture Crown Water Resistance Minute Hand Reset Pusher Power Reserve Tachymeter Moon how much scale Phase energy is in way to calculate the watch land speed Pulsometer Telemeter way to scale calculate way to Exhibition heart beats calculate back per minutes distance of sound the collectoR winter 2012 31 LINGO.indd 31 11/15/12 3:42:32 PM PUTTING WATCHES TO THE TEST Today’s sports watches, like this Girard- Perregaux Sport Sea Hawk, undergo torture testing to make sure they perform in the real world. 32 THE COLLECTOR WINTER 2012 32_Beating.indd 32 11/15/12 4:19:45 PM Bell & Ross BR03 Type Aviation Steel Rubber TAKING A BEATING PUTTING WATCHES TO THE TEST EVER FIND YOURSELF worried about your watch during physical activity? Nowadays, sports watches are designed to take a beating so you don’t have to even think, much less worry, about them. Jumping out of an airplane? No problem. Diving down to the depths? Bring it. Lifting weights in the gym? No sweat! Sports watches are the timepiece equivalent of the Swiss Army Knife and are able to do just about anything, while still looking good. Created to be an all-around timepiece, today’s quality sports watches can take ev- erything you can dish out, and more. Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Spacemaster Orbital THE COLLECTOR WINTER 2012 33 32_Beating.indd 33 11/15/12 3:47:32 PM Franck Muller Tutima GPG Cortez NATO 760 TESTING, TESTING AND the test site of Martin-Baker. Bremont had to redesign the MORE TESTING way their watch works, and took two years to develop Sports watches are put through a battery new technology in the case, suspending the movement in of rigorous tests that push them to their lim- a rubber mount. its. Often, engineers can only fi nalize designs once they have pushed the timepieces to their WATER RESISTANCE breaking points, which means subjecting them to Water resistance is a key feature for sports watches, drops, extreme conditions and much more. as they have to be able to go from the gym to the pool Most watch companies have a “torture cham- to the hot tub to the shower to the o ce, and keep on ber” where watches are put through every possible ticking without having any issues with water, condensa- test until they are destroyed. For example, crowns tion or humidity (remember those plastic sports watches Piaget Polo and chronograph pushers will be manipulated in that would fog up?). FortyFive every way possible thousands of times. Straps will A trend recently has been to water test fi nished watch- Chronograph be subjected to tension, torsion, the elements and much es. Previously, most watch cases were tested empty, so more, all with the goal of fi nding and eliminating problems that if there was a leak, water wouldn’t destroy the move- before the watch gets anywhere near your wrist. ment inside. One of the main benefi ts of testing fi nished The major tests performed on sports watches are for: watches is that any humidity trapped in the watch before water-resistance, mechanical endurance (vibration-resis- testing will be detected after testing it in the water (during tance, shock-resistance, linear and angular acceleration), the drying process). abrasion-resistance, corrosion-resistance (to seawater, One hundred meters water resistance is the baseline perspiration and UV rays), functional element resistance for a quality watch for active people, but watches are rat- (turning bezel rotation, pushbutton and crown fatigue), ed for their depth in absolutely calm water situations. The performance measurement (nighttime readability, anti- pressure of 10 ATM/100 meters can easily be exceeded refl ection) and chronometric precision measurement. when jumping into your pool o a diving board or clean- This testing often leads to new and innovative ways ing the tiles on your driveway using a power hose. If you of approaching sports watches. For example, Bremont are going to be active in the water, 20 ATM/200 meters is Watch Company developed and refi ned its revolution- recommended, just to be on the safe side. ary movement suspension system with Martin-Baker, the world’s leading aircraft ejector seat company. Martin-Bak- Thanks to all this extreme testing, you can strap on a er wanted to o er a timepiece to survivors who success- quality sports watch and do just about anything without fully ejected from their seats, but they wanted a timepiece having to worry whether or not your watch is going to that could withstand the same experience. be ok. The Bremont Martin-Baker watches have to go through Whether it’s jumping out of an airplane, diving to the all the tests that the ejector seat has to go through, like bottom of the sea or running a marathon, today’s sports Hamilton vibration, shock, climate and temperature extremes, salt- watches can keep up. Jazzmaster Seaview water and much more, including ejecting with a seat on Can you? 34 THE COLLECTOR WINTER 2012 32_Beating.indd 34 11/15/12 3:48:09 PM The FP Journe Octo Sport in Aluminum The new Bvlgari Octo Bvlgari Octo THE COLLECTOR WINTER 2012 35 32_Beating.indd 35 11/15/12 3:48:29 PM Lady’s| By Sophie Furley Swiss Watchmaking Takes a Female Turn Choice Bvlgari Serpenti Special Edition 36 the collectoR winter 2012 LadiesChoice.indd 36 11/15/12 3:51:01 PM Choice After dedicating years of research, development and investment towards their male clients, Swiss brands are now turning towards the fairer sex with exquisite diamond settings, complications just for women, and even miniature enamel paintings on the dials. The trend for larger-sized watches has given watchmakers and jewelers more space to experiment, on and under the dial, much to the joy of today’s ladies who are discovering the wonders of horology. Of course there will always be women who prefer the style and status of a man’s watch on their wrist—so gentlemen, you are still going to have to keep your collection under lock and key, unless you are willing to offer a timepiece to your loved one for the holidays! Jacob & Co. Brilliant Diamonds Pave the collectoR winter 2012 37 LadiesChoice.indd 37 11/15/12 3:51:19 PM Backes & Strauss Piccadilly Galet Vacheron Constantin Malte Girard-Perregaux Le Corbusier Piaget Rose Watch Ulysse Nardin Butterfly Caprice Hamilton Jazzmaster Ladies Patek Philippe Ladies Perpetual Calendar 38 the collectoR winter 2012 LadiesChoice.indd 38 11/15/12 3:51:41 PM Wempe Jewelers on Fifth Avenue Perfect TIMING How to Buy the Perfect Timepiece A fi ne watch is a meaningful purchase, one that re- Make a list of the watches that appeal to you, quires some care and forethought. A watch can be and go on the websites of the manufacturers you much more than just a watch – it’s the perfect gift like and read about them, their history, their philos- to commemorate a special occasion, mark a signifi - ophy, their approach to watchmaking, then fi nd out cant achievement or to simply splurge. where the brands’ authorized retailers are located. “If you are not an experienced watch collector, MAKING THE DECISION choosing the right timepiece could seem over- Before you go to a watch store, think about whelming given the many brands, functions and what sort of watch you want, how you want to use price ranges,” says Ruediger Albers, president, New it, where you want to wear it and how much you York’s Wempe Jewelers. “Receiving the right infor- want to spend. The possibilities are endless; the mation from a trusted authorized retailer can help only limits are those on your imagination...and your you navigate and fi nd just the right timepiece for budget. your needs and budget.” THE COLLECTOR WINTER 2012 39 Perfect.indd 39 11/15/12 3:53:32 PM The Tourneau Time Machine on East 57th St. 卡地亚 CELLINI JEWELERS HAS ONE OF THE LARGEST COLLECTIONS OF FINE TIMEPIECES IN NEW YORK CITY AND IS AN AUTHORIzED RETAILER FOR: CELLINI 珠宝，品种繁多，名表荟萃，是以下品牌的授权经销商： 卡地亚 肖邦 伯爵 Cellini Jeweler on GOING TO THE BEST Madison Avenue There are plenty of places to buy a watch today, but many places raise the fl ag of “buyer 江诗丹顿 beware.” The only way to be sure that you are buying an authentic watch from the brand you choose is to go to an authorized retailer. These retailers are chosen by the watch 朗格 A. Lange & Söhne 积家 Jaeger-LeCoultre manufactures to exclusively represent their watches. 爱彼 Audemars Piguet 琴杜 Jean Dunand “Today, consumers may fi nd many tempting o ers on-line as well as at unauthorized retailers for what seems to be the 柏莱士 Bell & Ross 鹿百雅 Ludovic Ballouard exact same timepiece a customer would buy at an authorized 德贝 De Bethune 时间大师 Maîtres du Temps retailer,” Wempe’s Albers says. “However, it’s what you don’t 德威特 DeWitt 沛纳海 Panerai see that should concern you. When buying from an autho- rized dealer you will be assured that your timepiece is new, 法兰克穆勒 Franck Muller 帕玛强尼 Parmigiani Fleurier unaltered and 100% authentic and covered under the manu- 芝柏 Girard-Perregaux 瑞驰迈迪 Richard Mille facturer’s warranty.” 琪艾 Guy Ellia 豪爵 Roger Dubuis STARTING YOUR COLLECTION 亨利慕时 H. Moser & Cie 雅典 Ulysse Nardin Once you have made your purchase, enjoy that watch and 宇舶 Hublot 真力时 zenith start thinking about your next one. After all, gone are the 万国 IWC days where men and women bought one watch for their en- tire lives. Today, people buy watches for specifi c occasions “You can be confi dent that you are purchasing a new piece (sports, dress, work, weekends, etc.) or for no reason at all. Watches are one of the few ways where we can showcase that is warranted by the brand and that you have a store to who we are and what we love, and all of us have di erent go to should you have any problems with the watch.” aspects to our personalities. Watches can help you express HOTEL WALDORF-ASTORIA WWW.CELLINIJEWELERS.COM 509 MADISON AVENUE all your di erent sides and you can choose from your watch 301 PARK AVENUE 洽询：800-235-5464—Leon Adams, President ofAT Cellini 53RD STREET Jewelers “wardrobe” depending on you feel each day. 华尔道夫 酒店 纽约，纽约 10022 麦迪逊大道509号 公园大道301号 800-CELLINI 53街交界口 212-751-9824 NEW YORK, NY 10022 212-888-0505 40 THE COLLECTOR WINTER 2012 Perfect.indd 40 11/15/12 3:54:19 PM 109 mercer st. nyc | ivankatrumpcollection.com 11/14/12 12:32:40 PM Rock Tradition. NYO The Collector 11-2012 FINAL.pdf 1 11/14/2012 12:14:04 PM 12:14:04 1 11/14/2012 FINAL.pdf 11-2012 The Collector NYO Untitled-9 1 ?FK Untitled-2 2 11/13/12 1:44:19 PM