If It’s Tuesday, This Dive, Captain, Dive Watch Lingo Must Be... Travel Time Dive Watches a special guide to fi ne watches and jewelry DOING THINGS DIFFERENTLY Cover_2012 6 11/15/12 3:56:52 PM Untitled-21 2 10/19/12 12:01:37 PM Untitled-21 3 10/19/12 12:01:52 PM THE NEW HAWK COLLECTION SEA HAWK 1000 METERS Steel and rubber case, screw-down case back, Girard-Perregaux automatic mechanical movement. Hour, minute, small second, date and power reserve indicator. GIRARD-PERREGAUX BOUTIQUE 701 Madison Avenue, New York Tel. 646-495-9915 | www.girard-perregaux.com Untitled-2 2 11/13/12 1:41:43 PM THE NEW HAWK COLLECTION SEA HAWK 1000 METERS Steel and rubber case, screw-down case back, Girard-Perregaux automatic mechanical movement. Hour, minute, small second, date and power reserve indicator. GIRARD-PERREGAUX BOUTIQUE 701 Madison Avenue, New York Tel. 646-495-9915 | www.girard-perregaux.com Untitled-2 3 11/13/12 1:42:00 PM 47/7/2,$2%#/2$3 5,4)-!4%$)3#2%4)/. 4OCELEBRATETHETHANNIVERSARYOFITSLEGENDARY#ALIBRE0 LAUNCHEDIN THE-ANUFACTUREDE(AUTE(ORLOGERIE0IAGET SETSTWONEWRECORDSINTHEULTRA THINQUEST &EATURINGANOFF CENTREDOSCILLATINGWEIGHT THENEWGENERATION 0ISTHEWORLDSTHINNESTAUTOMATICMOVEMENTONTHE MARKETATJUSTMMTHICK AFIRSTRECORD 4HANKSTOTHISNEW#ALIBRE0 THE0IAGET!LTIPLANOWATCH4HANKSTOTHISNEW#ALIBRE MEASURESJUSTMMTHICKMAKINGITTHEWORLDSTHINNEST AUTOMATICWATCH ASECONDRECORD 0)!'%4!,4)0,!./ 4HEWORLDSTHINNESTAUTOMATICWATCH 7HITEGOLDCASE MMTHICK 4HEWORLDSTHINNESTAUTOMATICMOVEMENT WWWPIAGETCOM 0IAGET-ANUFACTURE#ALIBRE MMTHICK 0)!'%4 0)!'%4"/54)15% &)&4(!6%.5% .%79/2+ 3(/0/.,).%!47770)!'%4#/- Untitled-7 2 11/14/12 11:28:20 AM 47/7/2,$2%#/2$3 5,4)-!4%$)3#2%4)/. 4OCELEBRATETHETHANNIVERSARYOFITSLEGENDARY#ALIBRE0 LAUNCHEDIN THE-ANUFACTUREDE(AUTE(ORLOGERIE0IAGET SETSTWONEWRECORDSINTHEULTRA THINQUEST &EATURINGANOFF CENTREDOSCILLATINGWEIGHT THENEWGENERATION 0ISTHEWORLDSTHINNESTAUTOMATICMOVEMENTONTHE MARKETATJUSTMMTHICK AFIRSTRECORD 4HANKSTOTHISNEW#ALIBRE0 THE0IAGET!LTIPLANOWATCH4HANKSTOTHISNEW#ALIBRE MEASURESJUSTMMTHICKMAKINGITTHEWORLDSTHINNEST AUTOMATICWATCH ASECONDRECORD 0)!'%4!,4)0,!./ 4HEWORLDSTHINNESTAUTOMATICWATCH 7HITEGOLDCASE MMTHICK 4HEWORLDSTHINNESTAUTOMATICMOVEMENT WWWPIAGETCOM 0IAGET-ANUFACTURE#ALIBRE MMTHICK 0)!'%4 0)!'%4"/54)15% &)&4(!6%.5% .%79/2+ 3(/0/.,).%!47770)!'%4#/- Untitled-7 3 11/14/12 11:28:57 AM 8 EDITor’s LETTER 10 IF It’s TUESDAY, THIS MUST BE... Making sense of time zones with fantastic watches. 14 DIVE, CAPTAIN, DIVE A look at the year’s best dive watches. FP Journe Chronomètre 20 Optimum DOING THINGS DIFFERENTLY The best watchmakers can’t leave well enough alone. EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KEITH W. STRANDBERG 30 WATCH AND JEWELRY EDITOR SOPHIE FURLEY PRODUCTION & CREATIVE DIRECTOR ED JOHNSON WATCH LINGO DESIGNER CHRISTIE WRIGHT The key parts of a fine timepiece. PHOTO EDITOR PETER LETTRE ADVERTISING/PRODUCTION COORDINATOR LISA MEDCHILL PUBLISHER 32 BETTY SHAW LEDERMAN TAKING A BEATING Sports watches can do just about anything. OBSERVER MEDIA GROUP PUBLISHER JARED KUSHNER PRESIDENT MICHAEL ALBANESE 36 EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT BARRY LEWIS LADy’s ChoiCE MARKETING AND EVENTS DIRECTOR ZARAH BURNSTEIN Swiss watchmaking takes a female turn. MARKETING DIRECTOR DEBORAH BRUNDY SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT SALES AND MARKETING DAVID GURSKY DIRECTOR OF CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING 39 KEN NEWMAN V.P. CIRCULATION KRATOS VOS THE PERFECT TIMEPIECE CIRCULATION Finding and buying the right watch for you. ALEXANDRA ENDERLE, PETER PARRIS, CARLOS RODRIGUEZ, THE NEW YORK OBSERVER 321 West 44th Street New York, NY 10036 212.755.2400 www.observer.com 6 THE COLLECTOR WINTER 20102012 6_TOC.indd 6 11/15/12 2:50:20 PM BALL_NYObserver_GCT_2012Collectors.pdf 1 11/12/2012 2:20:37 PM C M Y CM MY CY CMY K Engineer Master II Grand Central Time Limited Edition of 999 pieces Automatic - 44mm Commemorating the 100th year anniversary of the Grand Central Terminal BALL Watch USA www.ballwatch.com Tel: 727-896-4278 Artisans Alcove Cape May, NJ | Salkin’s Jewel Case Freehold, NJ | Arlington Jewelers Nutley, NJ | Eli Adams Jewelers Rochelle Park , NJ | Orologio Short Hills, NJ Desires By Mikolay Chappaqua, NY | London Jewelers Greenvale, NY | Bassano Jewelry New York, NY | Central Watch New York, NY | Kenjo Jewelry New York, NY Las Americas New York, NY | Manhattan Jewelers New York, NY | Ask Design Olean, NY | Corwin Jewelers Southampton, NY | Rose Jewelers Southampton, NY Untitled-2 2 11/13/12 1:47:32 PM OUR PERSPECTIVE OF TIME hy is our day split into 60 seconds in a minute, 60 minutes in an hour, 24 hours in a day, and 365 days in a year? We certainly could divide time up any way we want, but our world functions because everyone agrees to the time standard we now have. The measuring of time is a purely human-made construct, and we have been trying to perfect timekeeping since the beginning of ... well, time, fi rst with sand, fi re and water, and now with mechanical and quartz watches and atomic clocks. WWe didn’t always measure time the 24/7/365 way, however. Early Roman calendars had only 304 days and the earliest calendars in China and Greece had years with 354 days. Ancient China originally broke the day up into 100 “Ke” (quarters), each equivalent to 14 minutes and 24 seconds. Just about everyone accepted the Gregorian calendar in 1752, and when the British Parliament implemented it, 11 days just disappeared from the year (September 3-13, 1752), in order to realign with the new calendar. So, even though our system of timekeeping can seem a bit arbitrary, it’s necessary for our society to function. And, a watch is one of the true tools of our lives, something on which we depend every single day, to keep us on schedule. In addition to being a tool, however, a watch can provide a glimpse into who we are and what we value. Wear a rugged dive watch and you are saying one thing about yourself; wear an elegant, complicated timepiece and you are saying something completely di erent. The great thing is that we can wear any watch we want anytime we want, depending on how we feel and where we are going. Thank goodness for our system of timekeeping and for watches. I hope you enjoy this issue of The Collector and Happy Holidays! Patek Philippe Ref. 5940 Men’s Grand Complication Keith W. Strandberg, Editor-in-Chief 8 THE COLLECTOR WINTER 2012 8_Letter.indd 8 11/15/12 3:09:19 PM HAUntitled-5 1102_12 1 LordTaylor_TheCollector.indd 1 11/13/1211/13/12 4:02:54 3:55 PM Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5131J IF IT’S TUESDAY, THIS MUST BE...? Making Sense of Time Zones with Fantastic Watches IF YOU TRAVEL REGULARLY, or if you do is di cult at the best of times and almost business with companies in other time impossible when jet lagged. zones, you understand that fi guring out That’s where time zone watches, also what time it is in di erent parts of the known as dual time, multiple time zone, world can be a real challenge. world time or GMT/UTC watches, come in. Trying to do this with an ordinary, single These watches display time in other time time zone watch is challenging, involving zones, so all you have to do is look at the mathematics and mental gymnastics, which dial to see what time it is wherever you are. 10 THE COLLECTOR WINTER 2012 10_Timezone_2012.indd 10 11/15/12 3:25:12 PM Untitled-13 1 11/15/12 9:24:52 AM Piaget Polo FortyFive Perpetual Calendar Hamilton Khaki Automatic UTC Jacob & Co. H24 Five Time Zone Automatic Bvlgari Papillon Voyager Seiko Astron Zenith Pilot Doublematic A LITTLE HISTORY the world started keeping time by this use half-hour deviations from standard In 1884, the International Prime system. In 1972, the majority of the world time, and some nations, such as Nepal Meridian Conference was held in adopted Coordinated Universal Time and some provinces, like the Chatham Washington D.C. to standardize time (UTC), and now o cial time zones are Islands, use quarter-hour deviations. and select Greenwich, England as zero indicated by +/- UTC rather than GMT. The countries with the most time degrees longitude (the Prime Meridian), There are, however, some parts of the zones are Russia and the United States, which established the 24 time zones we world that divide time di erently than with nine standard time zones each. use today. The U.S. government o cially originally conceived. Newfoundland, Two large countries, China (which adopted standard time on March 19, Iran, Afghanistan, Venezuela, Burma, the should have fi ve time zones) and India, 1918. By 1929, most countries around Marquesas, as well as parts of Australia, only have one time zone. 12 THE COLLECTOR WINTER 2010 10_Timezone_2012.indd 12 11/15/12 3:26:47 PM Making Sense of Travel Time Hamilton Khaki Automatic UTC DUAL TIME: A watch with two time indications, one for local time, one for home time. GMT: A watch that has a separate pointer hand indicating GMT/UTC. Bell & Ross BR03 GMT Tutima Grand Classic Ball Engineer Master II Grand Chronograph UTC Center Terminal (GCT) Limited Edition MULTIPLE TIME ZONE WATCHES: A timepiece that can display more than two time zones. WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN pointer hand to point to the second standard 24 hour time zones. There are A TIME ZONE WATCH time zone or to GMT/UTC (which you even a few that display the additional There are a number of ways that can then use to calculate any time zone half-hour time zones as well, which is timepieces accomplish displaying more in the world if you know the UTC o set, a very complicated feat. Before you than one time zone, and the one that e.g. New York City is UTC –5). buy, make sure the watch you choose suits you best depends on how many Some watches can display more is readable—with some world time time zones you need to track.