Socio-Economic Assessment and Marketing Constraints of the Handloom Units - a Case Study of Bishnupur Municipal Town, Bankura District (West Bengal)

International Journal of Interdisciplinary Research in Science Society and Culture(IJIRSSC) Vol: 2, Issue:1, (June Issue), 2016 ISSN: (P) 2395-4345, (O) 2455-2909 © IJIRSSC

Tanisha Mitra

Faculty, Department of Geography Bidhan Chandra College, Rishra (Under University of Calcutta) 31. G.T. Road (East), Hooghly – 712248, West Bengal ______ABSTRACT : Handlooms are synonymous with Indian traditions. They occupy a significant part of the economy and are a vital employment provider in millions of rural households. Handlooms are a distinguished non-farm sector in our country. Bishnupur municipal town in Bankura district of West Bengal is a cradle of handloom weavers, who create magic with silk threads and produce the unique Baluchari and Swarnachuri saris which portray our rich heritage. There are around 1220 looms producing handlooms worth Rs 16 million annually in Bishnupur municipal town. More than 15% of the total workforce in the area is engaged in Handloom production. This paper is an attempt to assess the socio-economic profile of the weaver households in some wards of Bishnupur municipality. The uniqueness of Baluchari saris which are a speciality of the Bishnupur handloom units have been analysed here and their production processes have been dealt with. The paper also sheds light on various problems especially related to marketing and promotion of handloom products. Mostly illiterate and unskilled, the weavers are subject to credit and infrastructural problems and fall prey to middlemen or mahajans, who claim a large share of their earnings and deprive the weavers despite their hardwork. Finally some possible recommendations in the form of credit facilities, product diversification and market promotion have been stated to enhance the livelihood of the weavers.

Keywords: : Baluchari saris, Bishnupur weavers , Handloom unit, Marketing problems , Traditional Art,

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I. Introduction:

Industrialisation refers to a phenomenon of social and economic transformation that transforms an agrarian economy into an industrial sector[1].. Industries can further be grouped according to rural and urban locations. Generally, „cottage industries‟ form a part of „rural industries‟. Goods are produced manually usually with the help of family members. The Fiscal Commission in 1950, defined a cottage industry as “one which is carried on wholly or primarily with the help of members of the family either as a whole or a part-time occupation” [2] . Cottage industries further comprise of Handlooms, Handicrafts, Coir, Silk and Khadi and village industries. www.ijirssc.in Page 191

International Journal of Interdisciplinary Research in Science Society and Culture(IJIRSSC) Vol: 2, Issue:1, (June Issue), 2016 ISSN: (P) 2395-4345, (O) 2455-2909 © IJIRSSC

Handlooms being labour intensive in nature employ a large number of unskilled rural populations [3.] The art of spinning is an ancient art thriving in many households of rural Bengal but is now almost on the verge of extinction. Facing threats from different spheres, the handloom weavers need strong structural and financial support to deal with the constraints and an assessment is thus necessary to understand their status.

II. Objectives of the Study:

The main objectives in this paper is - 1. To evaluate the socio-economic conditions of the sample households. 2. To analyse the performance and progress of the handloom units. 3. To observe the marketing facilities and marketing problems of the handloom fabrics. 4. To identify other problems faced by the weavers and suggest suitable remedial measures for their wellbeing.

III. Database and Methodology: The study is primarily based on both primary and secondary data. The primary data have been gathered through structured questionnaires, personal interviews, discussions and observations. Secondary data were collected from the reports of Census Office, Bishnupur Municipality Office, Handloom Development Office (Bankura) various books and journals have also been used as reference. The collected data have been analysed to understand the socio-economic conditions and marketing problems of the weaver households. IV. Selection of the Study Area: Bishnupur in Bankura district (West Bengal) is located between 22057‟15”N to 23012‟32”N latitude and 87031‟46‟‟E to 87024‟11‟‟E longitude. Bishnupur (also spelt Vishnupur) is named after Lord Vishnu, the deity of the Vaishnavite Malla kings who ruled it. The town had a glorious past in the 17th and 18th centuries. It was the capital of the Malla Kingdom. Bishnupur is famous for its unique architecture and traditional handicrafts such as weaving and pottery. Situated at an average elevation of 59 metres, the total population of Bishnupur municipal town according to 2011 census was 67783. Bishnupur Municipal town lies within the Bishnupur sub-division in Bankura district. The municipality is bordered in the North by the Darika Goswaipur Panchayat, Morr Panchayat in the South, Pansuili Panchayat in the East and Dwadas Bari Panchayat in the West. Bishnupur municipal town is a significant trade centre in West Bengal. The economy is trade based involving retail and wholesale business. Cottage industries such as Brass Metals, Handloom Weaving and Conch-shell products are the prime source of income for a large section of people.

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International Journal of Interdisciplinary Research in Science Society and Culture(IJIRSSC) Vol: 2, Issue:1, (June Issue), 2016 ISSN: (P) 2395-4345, (O) 2455-2909 © IJIRSSC

In the 18th century and the early part of the 19th century, Bishnupur played a vital role in the commerce of East India Company due to the famous Bishnupur silks There was a huge demand for embroidered silk scarves and „Dhupchhaya‟ saris in the foreign market.

Table 1: Handloom Units in Bishnupur Sub-division (2004 - 05)

Sl No. Name of the Block No.of Looms 1. Bishnupur 154 2. Joypur 575 3. Kotulpur 508 4. Indas 338 5. Patrasayer 581 6. Sonamukhi 79

Source: Handloom Development Office, Bankura

Ward Nos. 12 and 17 of Bishnupur Municipality house most of the production units of Baluchari, Swarnachuri and other traditional products of silk and cotton such as bed-sheets, towels and „gamchhas‟, shirting etc. The locality is known as Tantipara owing to the weavers or „Tantis‟. Almost every household consists of a loom where the master craftsmen weave out colourful and intricate designs on silk. Baluchari and Swarnachuri are the most well known products of the units.

Table 2: Categories of Handloom Units

Categories Type of Unit Nature of Product of the Unit

Unit produced Silk based Baluchari I products Swarnachuri Katan silk Tasar Silk Unit produced Non-Silk based Bedsheet II products Woolen Chadar Gamchha Cotton Thans

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International Journal of Interdisciplinary Research in Science Society and Culture(IJIRSSC) Vol: 2, Issue:1, (June Issue), 2016 ISSN: (P) 2395-4345, (O) 2455-2909 © IJIRSSC

V. Result and Discussion: Demographic highlights of the weaver households:

According to the 2011 Census, there are 690 and 583 households in Ward Nos. 12 and 17 respectively under Bishnupur Municipality. Some demographic aspects of the two localities have been discussed below:

Population Composition:

The total population of Ward Nos. 12 and 17 is 3252 and 2601 respectively. In both the wards, the male female population is almost balanced. In Ward 12, 50.5% are males, whereas, 49.5% are females. On the other hand, in Ward 17, 51.7% are males and 48.3% of the population are females.

Caste Composition:

The weavers in the study area belong mainly to the General Caste, while a small percentage of population belongs to the Scheduled Caste category. No Scheduled Tribe population has been found. In Ward No. 12, 86.2% of population belong to General Caste and only 13.8% belong to SC category. On the other hand, in Ward No. 17, 90.6% of population belong to General Caste and only 9.4% belong to SC category. The weavers of ward no. 12 belong to Bauri community and there is also a slum area named Kailashtala Bauri Para, where people of lower class and poor economic background reside.

Literacy Status:

Literacy forms the backbone of any developing society. Bishnupur, though a heritage town does not lag behind in its educational pursuits. The predominance of literate population in comparison to its illiterate counterpart verifies the same. In ward no. 12, almost 74% of the population is literate while 26% is illiterate. On the other hand, in ward no. 17, nearly 85.7% of the population is literate and only 14.3% have not received education. Literacy among female members of the family has also been noticed. Govt. Schemes such as Sarva Siksha Abhiyan and Anganwari schools have played a major role in this case. Besides a number of primary, secondary and higher secondary schools in Bishnupur municipal town, there is also a degree college (Ramananda College) and a Polytechnic Institution in the area.

Occupational Status:

The study area comprises mostly of weaver households. Agriculture has taken a back foot since irrigation facilities are not well developed and production is low. The farmers have to depend on alternative sources of income and the cottage and small scale industries provide such alternative employment. They also require relatively low amount of capital fund. The www.ijirssc.in Page 194

Household Income:

Most of the weaver households belong to poor category. Weavers engaged in Silk Units earn Rs 150 to Rs 200 a day, while those engaged in the Cotton Units get around Rs 90 to Rs 120 per day. Some Bishnupur weavers are not able to find employment on a regular monthly basis and work part time as weavers and the rest of the time as farm labourers or vegetable vendors. The monthly income of weaver households ranges between Rs 5000 and Rs 15000. In both the wards, almost 58% of families fall in the monthly income group of under Rs 5000. Around 30% belong to monthly income group of Rs 5000 – Rs 10000 and the rest 12% earn more than Rs 10000 per month.

The prime source of income for the weaver households are the handlooms. Around 63.8% of the family income comes from weaving. Some weavers have agricultural lands or work as farm labourers and 27.4% of family income comes from agricultural activities. Some of the households receive financial benefit from Govt. poverty alleviation programmes, while a meagre share of household income comes from retail business and other professions such as vendors and masons.

Work Participation:

Production in the handloom units are usually carried out by the family members. In some cases, engagement of skilled craftsmen has also been found. Around 67.98% males and 68.83% of females comprise the workforce. Work participation rate among women is higher than men. Another interesting fact noticed from the survey is that there is a huge involvement of old aged females in pre-loom activities like sizing, warping, spinning and drafting. Participation of girl children was also higher in comparison to the boys. Most of the looms were handled by full time weavers but presence of some part-time weavers was also seen. These part-time weavers are either engaged in agricultural or business activities as their main occupation.

BALUCHARI SARIS – Distinguished Features and Processes Involved:

Baluchari saris originated from Baluchar village in Murshidabad district. The „Nawab‟ rulers patronized the rich weaves but after their decline under the British rule, the art seemed to perish. Post Independence, in 1956, two acclaimed Bengali personalities; Shri Subho Tagore and Smt. Kamala Devi Chattopadhyay took initiative to re-introduce the art in Bishnupur.

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International Journal of Interdisciplinary Research in Science Society and Culture(IJIRSSC) Vol: 2, Issue:1, (June Issue), 2016 ISSN: (P) 2395-4345, (O) 2455-2909 © IJIRSSC

The Baluchari saris are hand-woven in richly dyed silk, depicting stories from ancient India, including tales from the Ramayana and Mahabharata. The famous characters of Ram, Sita, Krishna and Gopis are displayed exuberantly along the borders, and whole scenes are presented on the large pallus. Some designs include kings, noblemen and graceful dancing girls with celebratory scenes and ceremonies. The intricate designs on Baluchari saris have been inspired by the carvings on terracotta temples of Bishnupur.

The Baluchari sari designs are first sketched and then copied on to punching cards which are used in the jacquard loom to weave the pattern. The cards have punched holes which correspond to the designs. Thousands of punched cards are required for one sari design. When a hole is punched, a hook carrying the warp thread to be woven with the weft thread is raised. These hooks can be connected to more than one thread, allowing multiple weaving of a repeated pattern.

Fig. 1. Steps of production process of Baluchari Saris:

CULTIVATION OF COCOONS

PROCESSING OF THE YARNS

DESIGNING OF THE MOTIFS

WEAVING OUT THE DESIGNS

ADDING FINISHING TOUCH AND POLISHING OF THE SARIS

Source of Raw Material:

Weaver households usually procure raw materials from the local market comprising of co-operatives & mahajans. Baluchari producing units are especially dependent on the mahajans for their raw materials. Other related organizations such as Khadi & Village Industries Commission (KVIC) also provide raw materials but the involvement of middlemen and mahajans makes it difficult for the weavers to contact them directly. www.ijirssc.in Page 196

International Journal of Interdisciplinary Research in Science Society and Culture(IJIRSSC) Vol: 2, Issue:1, (June Issue), 2016 ISSN: (P) 2395-4345, (O) 2455-2909 © IJIRSSC

Marketing of the Finished Products:

A good marketing strategy is required for a product to survive in the market when there is stiff competition of substitute products [4]. A major portion of the weaver households surveyed did not have any own channel. They are usually dependent on the mahajans to sell their products. Agents or middlemen play an active role in distributing and selling the finished products. The weavers are left over with a narrow profit margin.

The cost involved in the production units can be stated under four heads –

 Cost of Raw Materials  Pre-loom Wages  Weaving Charges  Fixed Overhead Charges

Skilled weavers sit in front of huge jacquard looms and strings of punched cards and weave out exquisite designs. It takes almost a week to complete a sari, and the weavers are paid a meagre amount of Rs 150 to Rs 200 a day. There are several middlemen and co- operatives involved in the sari business. They collect raw materials, supply them to the weavers and after completion of the products, and arrange for their sale in the local and national market.

Table 3: Cost Comparison at Production Unit (Weaver Households) and Market

Products Price at Production Unit Price at Market (Rupees) (Rupees)

Baluchari 1800 – 2200 3500 – 6000

Swarnachuri 2200 – 3500 4500 – 7000

Silk Thans 1500 – 2100 2800 – 3500

Cotton Shawl 80 – 120 200 – 250

Cotton Bedsheet 200 – 250 350 – 450

Woolen Shawl 150 – 180 250 – 300

Gamchha 40 – 50 80 – 100

Source : Primary Survey

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International Journal of Interdisciplinary Research in Science Society and Culture(IJIRSSC) Vol: 2, Issue:1, (June Issue), 2016 ISSN: (P) 2395-4345, (O) 2455-2909 © IJIRSSC

Fig 2. Schematic Diagram showing the major marketing problems faced by the weavers

Poor Finish of the Lack of Quality Product Control

Same Monotonous Lack of marketing Designs knowledge

MARKETING PROBLEMS

Competition from Ignorance of Potential technically efficient units Markets

Lack of further Unfamiliarity with processing work centre Export Activities

Some of the additional problems faced by the Handloom units are also stated as under:

. Lack of modern Machinery and other equipments. . Stiff competition from mills and power-looms. . Shortage of Raw Materials leading to reduced capacity utilisation. . Unawareness of information pertaining to Govt. Policies and schemes. . Lack of skilled technicians and spare parts of looms. . Absence of formal training of weavers. . Inadequate income generation of the weavers due to presence of mahajans and middlemen. . Lack of innovative designs and high price of designs.

Prospects of the Handloom Units:

Handloom is unique in its versatility and the strength primarily lies in the introduction of exquisite designs which cannot be duplicated by the power-loom sector. Handloom products are not just „luxury‟ items, but also „wage goods‟ that are capable of catering to different kinds of national and local markets which need to be linked [5]. There is a consistent demand for handloom products in our society as the weaves are synonymous with the rich Indian traditions. But the plight of handloom weavers are on the decline because of competition from the cheaper machine made substitutes available in the market. www.ijirssc.in Page 198

International Journal of Interdisciplinary Research in Science Society and Culture(IJIRSSC) Vol: 2, Issue:1, (June Issue), 2016 ISSN: (P) 2395-4345, (O) 2455-2909 © IJIRSSC

The demand for Baluchari, Swarnachuri and other expensive silks are on a decreasing trend since these saris are not for daily wear and their maintenance is also expensive. Besides the same and monotonous designs and the lack of innovative designs are adding to the declining trend. The weavers fear that if the demand continues to stagnate, many of the handloom units shall have to be shut down and the weavers shall have to switch professions. Recommendations for the Revival of the Handloom Units in Bishnupur Town:

Market research needs to be carried out to find out new items in which weaving methods can be adopted. Utility goods such as scarves, tablemats, home decor items and handbags can be weaved with the unique designs which are used to produce saris. This will promote the sales and provide employment to youth. The artisans need to be trained in new ways so that a new thrust is given to their capability and potential. Computer Aided Designs (CAD) needs to be used to speed up the production process and ease the task of motif-making. The Government, NGOs and civil society have to actively participate in nurturing and preserving the age old weaving crafts, that is almost on the verge of extinction. The demand for handloom products will face resurgence through the development of retail business and tourism. Domestic and foreign tourists have a fondness for ethnic and genuine Indian products, and handloom can cater to their requirements. This will give an automatic boost to the sector and the benefits will trickle down to the weaver households. Trade fairs need to be organized at the rural level enabling weavers to come in direct contact with the consumers and promote their sales.

Steps for skill upgradation in weaving and use of fine yarn have been taken up in recent years under Rashtriya Sam Vikas Yojana (RSVY). Handloom Development Organisations have initiated training programmes for young weavers especially women. Self Help Groups (SHGs) have been formed in this regard. Linkages with banks, co-operatives, marketing institutions such as Tantuja, Tantushree, etc. have also been made. Weaver I-cards have been distributed to 2819 weavers in Bishnupur. Health Insurance Schemes (HIS) have been introduced. Besides, 574 weavers are covered under Mahatma Gandhi Bunkar Bima Yojana (MGBBY) according to Directorate of Textiles (Handlooms), 2012-13.

VI. Conclusion:

Handloom units have been a source of employment for millions across the country. It ranks almost second after agriculture in our economy. It has witnessed many changes under the Five-Year Plans in independent India, but is still facing threats from several spheres. Handloom weavers in Bishnupur are in a miserable state and are being forced to shift professions and venture into new employment options. Problems such as improper supply of www.ijirssc.in Page 199

International Journal of Interdisciplinary Research in Science Society and Culture(IJIRSSC) Vol: 2, Issue:1, (June Issue), 2016 ISSN: (P) 2395-4345, (O) 2455-2909 © IJIRSSC raw materials, obsolete technology, credit shortage, and involvement of mahajans, unavailability of marketing facilities, competition from power-loom products and lack of awareness related to marketing and promotion of handloom products are the root cause of their despair.

Handloom units in Bishnupur need proper conditions for growth. The socio-economic condition of the weaver households is very poor and need support in terms of education, finance and training. Proper measures should be taken to prevent the traditional art of handloom from dying an untimely demise.

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 Chandrasekhar C.P. (2001): 'Handlooms in survival mode'. Paper presented in the seminar on “Growth and Prospects of the Handloom Industry”. Centre for Economic and Social Studies, Hyderabad, Sept 23-24.

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Weblinks:  www.hepcindia.com  handlooms.nic.in  chitrolekha.com/baluchari-sarees-of-bishnupur