Shanghai Quebec Sulawesi Tunisia Mallorca CANADIAN TravellerWORLD

ALREADY 19 YEARS WINTER 2020-21

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Contributing Editor David J. Cox

Graphic Department n this issue, we start our world-wide In the Americas, we first start in Quebec’s Al Cheong adventure in Sulawesi, Indonesia, as north and have ‘Fun for Families in we mingle with the locals and have an Saguenay-Lac-Saint-Jean’ region and find Advertising Department Iamazing ‘Defining Experience’ by delving out why it is a place worth returning too Leo Santini into their culture and ceremonies. Next, we again and again. Not far away we take a race around to uncover ‘Shanghai’s Hidden leisurely boat ride on the historic Rideau Marketing Department Gems’ in this almost otherworldly city. Canal with the self-drive boats from ‘Le Boat’ Tania Tassone company. Still in Canada, we head to the We then change gears with an incredible metropolis of Toronto, and uncover the many Distribution snorkelling adventure while cruising in Royce Dillon multi-cultural neighbourhoods, each with French Polynesia, Hawaii, and the their own charm and style. Galapagos islands. Jetting off to the east, Senior Travel Writers: we find out exactly how ‘Qatar Airways South of the 49th parallel we are off to Susan Campbell Qsuite Sets Precedent in Air Travel’. bite into the Big Apple and enjoy some Steve Gillick dining pleasure in some of this city’s Flying back to Europe, we enjoy the best best and most interesting eateries. Still in that Turkish airlines has to offer, first the states, we visit Virginia and experience Regular Contributors: heading to Istanbul and discovering the best the beautiful Blue Ridge Mountains region. Habeeb Salloum this fascinating city has to offer. Close by, we South of the equator, all that is new and excit- Jennifer Merrick then visit ‘Turkey's Mountainous Gem: Bursa’ ing in the tropical paradises of the Olivia Balsinger and then find true magic in wonderful Caribbean are ours to experience before we Mike Cohen Cappadocia. In Spain, we head to ‘The head to the end of the world and cruise with Ilona Kauremszky Mediterranean Pearl’ on the island of Princess from Buenos Aires to Santiago, Natalie Ayotte Mallorca. Chile, all the while enjoying the majestic nat- Jasmine Morcos ural flora and fauna of the best this amazing- Daniel Smajovits A quick ride later and we are in North Africa, ly abundant land. Cherie DeLory an unbelievably diverse destination where we Lisa TE Sonne first learn why it is truly ‘Magnificent Tunisia’. Happy Travels! Alexandra Cohen Jessica Percy Campbell Mathieu Morcos Gregory Caltabanis Anne-Marie Macloughlin Janice Mucalov

Disclaimer: World Traveler has made every effort to verify that the information provided in this publica- tion is as accurate as possible. However, we accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconven- ience sustained by anyone resulting from the infor- mation contained herein nor for any information provided by our advertisers.

Destinations Crusing Section 38

Sulawesi 8 Mallorca 10

Cruise News Shanghai 12 Saguenay, QC 56 Princess Le Boat Snorkeling Cruises

Stay & Play - 48

Toronto 58 Tunisia 60

Virginia

Casa Cartel, Austin Texas Around the World 16 8

Tana Toraja, Sulawesi, Indonesia: A Defining Experience Article and photography by Steve Gillick

ulawesi is a captivating destination 11 History Teacher who had us read por- Several years later, after a few days of dis- for travelers looking to connect and tions of Sir James George Frazer’s classic covery in Bali, we took the 75-minute flight Sinteract in a personal, meaningful study of mythology and religion, The from Denpassar to Makassar, where we met way. During our five day visit, we attended Golden Bough. our guide for the seven hour (310 km) jour- funeral ceremonies, visited cave, cliff and ney to Tana Toraja. Today there are one- tree graves, met the fascinating Tau tau, But there was also a totally unexpected mys- hour flights from Makassar (a.k.a Ujung trekked to remote villages and interacted tical intervention, when, on a flight to Irian Pandang) to Palopo Bua Airport and then a with the locals selling their wares in the mar- Jaya (now Papua), our plane made a brief two-hour drive to Rantepao, so the choice of kets, planting the rice fields and doing stop in Makassar, the capital of Sulawesi. At transportation just depends on time, budget household chores in and around their that time the airport terminal was designed and curiosity. homes. to evoke the image of ‘Tongkonan’, the tra- ditional, peak-roofed houses of the Torajan We drove up the coast, making frequent Our journey to Tana Toraja, “the land of the people. I was totally amazed and vowed that stops to photograph landscapes of moun- people of the uplands”, was motivated by I would return one day. And I did! tains and villages, scenes of small fishing an overall desire to gain insight into other boats and roadside stalls selling everything cultures, inspired, no doubt, by my Grade from dried fish to basketball-sized Pomelo (a expensive ‘production’, ceremonies often 9 citrus fruit, locally known as Jeruk Bali). take years to plan. Hundreds of guests arrive and walk around the ritual field in the In Batu Kabobong or “Erotic Mountain”, village, showing off their best attire as well (named after the ‘use-your-imagination’ as the number of pigs they have brought, or visual-shapes of the topography), we baskets of rice or tubes of palm wine. Each learned one of the seminal Torajan myths. In gift represents a debt and a social tie. The olden days, people were free to climb the guests then retire to temporary shelters, built Celestial Ladder to meet the deities in the around the field. sky, particularly Puang Matua, the High God. Puang Matua wanted to see the Aluk Water Buffalo play an important role in (‘the way of the ancestors’ or ‘the law’) leading the deceased to the afterlife. After brought down to earth, and so a man and the Buffalo are paraded on the field, they his wife were assigned to carry all 7777 Aluk are slaughtered and the meat is divvied up and the wind will take their soul to the heav- down the Celestial Ladder. But the couple according to the rank of the attendees (the ens. could only manage to carry 777 and left the head goes to the highest noble, the ribs are rest behind, including the Aluk on permissi- distributed to commoners etc). Probably the most notable symbols associat- ble marriage practices. ed with death in Tana Toraja are the Tau tau, And while this is taking place it’s hard not to a name that means “person-like”. These Many years later, a great-grandchild of the notice the Tongkonan (meaning “sit down life-sized wooden or bamboo effigies that couple had two daughters and two sons. As together”). Tongkonen honour the birth- guard the nearby graves, are thought to be there were no available partners for the chil- place of the parents, grand-parents and receptacles for the ghosts of the deceased. dren to marry, the parents sent an emissary ancestors, and are characterized by roofs Tau tau appear to be alive, with vivid staring to climb the Celestial Ladder and ask Puang that resemble boats. While some say that eyes and dressed in the finest clothes, while Matua if the children would be permitted to this tradition commemorates the ancestors standing or sitting in family groups, in marry each other. The emissary decided not who sought shelter by turning their boats recesses carved into the limestone cliffs and to undertake the tiring journey and instead, into houses, others believe that the roofs inside caves. made up the answer. He informed the par- resemble the shape of the sky and are a ents that siblings were permitted to marry, connection to Puang Matua. Our visits to explore these important life- and the marriage went ahead. Puang Matua cycle events took us to small settlements in was so enraged that the Celestial Ladder Tongkonen are often elaborately decorated Lemo, Sangalla, Marante, Londa Kete, Keta was hurled down to earth. Over the years, with colorful symbols: Two roosters signify Kesu and Pangli. But we also had the oppor- the remaining Aluk that would provide the rule of life; a circle represents Puang tunity to trek from one farming village to direction for all aspects of social life, agri- Matua; snail-like decorations relate to com- another, to visit and chat with locals working cultural practices and rituals, were conveyed munity and the ideal of working together; in rice terraces, tending crops, and engaged to the Torajan people. and the Water Buffalo represents power. In in household chores. fact the most important Tongkanen display a On the final leg of our journey we turned ‘kobongo’ on the façade; a carved buffalo In Rantepao and Makale, we visited the live- inland and after encountering miles of head with real horns, often accompanied by ly, crowded markets, watched the animated steep, winding roads, we finally arrived at a roof-to-ground display of buffalo horns, trading of palm-leaf-and-bamboo-bound the formal “Gateway” to Tana Toraja in symbolizing the age, wisdom and stature of live pigs and frantic, squawking chickens, Rantepao, the capital of North Toraja the man of the house. drank fresh coffee brewed from locally Regency. We settled into our hotel, enjoyed grown beans, sipped palm wine from bam- a local dinner of Nasi Goreng (fried rice During the time it takes to arrange a funer- boo tubes, and took photos of the colorful with vegetables, shrimp and egg), and then al ceremony, it’s not unusual for the body of fruit, fish and vegetable stands. fell asleep to the harmonies of chirping the deceased to remain embalmed, under a cicadas and crickets. house. Afterward the deceased may be for- This was one amazing adventure filled with mally buried in a cliff grave (inside the cliff memorable conversations and smiles. For The next three days were filled with one fas- or in a wooden coffin hanging from the cliff) travelers with a consuming curiosity about cinating experience after another. or in a cave. We visited some of these destinations, people and culture, a visit to gravesites but also saw tree graves where Tana Toraja can be a defining experience. Torajan funeral ceremonies allow the soul of young babies are laid to rest. The belief is the deceased to be transported safely to the that the baby will be absorbed into the tree www.indonesia.travel next world. As it can be a very elaborate and

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2020-21 10 Mallorca

The Mediterranean Pearl Article & Photography by Michael Morcos

he Spanish empire has a long his- plain known as Es Pla. To the north and enced by his love of architecture, nature, tory, and the country has withstood west, the city borders the Serra de and religion. His eye for detail is clear in the tests of time to become a world Tramuntana, the island's major mountain each his creations and integrated into them T range and a Unesco World Heritage site. with ceramics, stained glass, wrought iron- player, and an absolute must spot for a trip! work and carpentry. There are so many locations to choose from, As a former Moorish casbah, or walled city, with cities that can trace roots back through Palma's Old Town is a maze of narrow A sight to behold, the Almudaina Palace is a the mists of time, to modern cities that rival streets that are ideal for meandering by foot, fine example of Moorish architecture and New York and London. discovering local treats and delights by the how Spain endeavours to preserve the histo- score. ry of its past. It has seen life as a Moorish Not to be missed is a gem found off the fortress, and a palace for the Mallorcan coast, surrounded by the asure waters of the The walking tour around the city centre kings and today it is a museum containing Mediterranean sea - the Spanish Island of offers a visit to the Spanish old world, with pieces of art such as Flemish tapestries, an Mallorca! ancient buildings and history around every excellent collection of paintings, and a corner. As imposing as it is beautiful, the beautiful selection of oriental carpets. It is Palma is the economic and cultural hub of famous La Seu is a vast cathedral originally also rumoured to be the official residence Majorca, as it was once a major port, and built on a mosque. Construction began in when the King of Spain makes summertime now the riches are enjoyed as a wonderful 1229 but it did not finish until 1601 and fur- visits! base for exploring the island's many beach- ther restoration was undertaken in 1901, es, museums and nightlife. Palma city cen- when local architect Antoni Gaudí was In the city on top of a hill, with a great view ter is located north of Badia de Palma and brought in to help. Ingenious and passion- of Palma and the sea, lies Bellver Castle. extends eastwards with mostly a flat fertile ate, Gaudí's many projects are clearly influ- Due to its location and visibility from the sea and city, it has become one of Palma`s most typical, and there are many delights await- 11 recognized symbols. Originally a residence ing the palate, like sobrassada, arròs brut for the Kings of Mallorca, it has withstood (saffron rice cooked with chicken, pork and the elements and many sieges throughout vegetables), the sweet pastry ensaïmada, the ages. In 1931, the castle and the forest and a delightful herbal liqueur Herbs de surrounding it was given to the city of Palma Majorca. and was transformed into a museum that, after being restored in 1976, became the As with most mediteranian beaches, the city's History museum and a hub for many sands and azure water combine to make a different public ceremonies, cultural events, memorable day for the whole family. A stop and concerts. for pictures from Es Mirador d’Es Colomer (Pollença) must also be made, as there are Museums and history are a part of Palma`s breath taking views from high upon the fabric, and a visit to the Fundació Pilar I cliffs. Joan Miró museum is not to be missed. Dedicated to the work of the artist Joan We then visited Teixits Vicens, a family-run Miró, there is a main building exhibiting artisanal textile factory and craft workshop works donated by the artist, a library, a manufacturing Mallorca fabrics that are sculpture garden, Miró's studio Sert, and the locally known as Roba de Llengües (Cloth of Finca Son Boter. The museum was designed Tongues). As a testament to their products by the renowned Rafael Moneo and built in and professionalism, they have been able to 1992. survive and keep an old trade alive in mod- ern times, since being founded in 1854. We moved on to the city of Petra, birthplace of famous missionary Brother Juniper Serra, Soller is an agricultural town nestled in a fer- founder of many Californian missions tile valley surrounded by olive and orange including one in of San Francisco and trees, vegetable gardens and produce. another in Los Angeles. In a stroke of luck, Regular commerce with France has created our visit coincided with a Cannonizing cere- cultural consequences that are reflected in mony held for him by none other than Pope its architecture and language. Highly Francis! praised by visitors, there are wonderful walks along the cobbled path of Barranc de The local church in Petra has many statues Bini, the Plaza de la Constitució and along of saints whose names were borrowed in the cobbled path of Barranc de Biniaraix. California including San Diego and San Francisco. His work in California included A lunch date at Belmond La Residencia many recorded acts of piety and a dedica- offers a Donkey walking trail tour through tion to his missionary efforts for which he the hotel’s olive groves, an enjoyable visit was granted the posthumous title Apostle of followed by an unforgettable picnic lunch in California. The Pope`s declaration of Serra a stone shepherd’s hut. Further along is a as a Catholic saint was a controversial one, visit to the Royal Carthusian Monastery of as many aboriginal tribes criticize Serra's Valldemossa, where Frédéric Chopin and treatment of their ancestors and associate George Sand spent the winter of 1838- him with the suppression of their culture. 1839.

Caves of Artá lie in the northeast of A final stop took us for a wonderful sunset Majorca, around 60 km from the island's while enjoying a delicious selection of finger capital of Palma. Visiting these caves one food and cocktails at the Puro Beach club. can understand why it has been used in All luxurious amenities are offered, includ- films like The Golden Voyage of Sinbad`, as ing seaside food and drinks, lounges, ter- they offer an other-worldly feel! race, pool & SPA treatments. Fun for day and night! Once in the town of Artá we ate at the Sant Salvador restaurant, great home style www.spain.info Mallorcan food. Olives and almonds are

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2020-21 Shanghai

Shanghai’s Hidden Gems by Daniel Smajovits bespoke wardrobe. Our personal favourite gentrified industrial area now fea- 13 ucked in between massive sky- is Joyce and Rita (#129) for their excellent tures more than 100 galleries with scrapers, five-star restaurants and customer service and hotel delivery. exhibits from around the world. one of the most beautiful water- Furthermore, your measurements stay on Museums such as the Long Museum and Yuz T file, so ordering more via We Chat is as easy Museum are must-visits, but make sure to fronts in the world is the Shanghai Jewish Refugee Museum: a living monument to the as a few messages upon returning home. spend an entire day in the area, pic-nick in city’s rich history. Allow a minimum of two days for all shirts tow to soak in the neighbourhood’s hipster and pants to be produced and ensure to vibe. While today Shanghai is known as one of carve out time for a second visit should you the world’s financial and shopping hubs, the purchase a full suit. Even further south is Jinshan Beach, a true museum brings visitors back to the mid- respite from the craziness that is central 1800s when the then-quiet fishing village Staying on the subject of markets, Shanghai Shanghai. Taking the 30-minute bullet train welcomed its first wave of Jewish immi- is home to perhaps one of the most unique from Shanghai South Railway Station (10 grants. ones in the world: the People’s Square RMB), the man-made beach is a welcome Marriage Market. Parents flock to People’s haven for tourists looking to relax on the Located at the former Ohel Moshe Park in central Shanghai every Saturday and water or bring their children for an after- Synagogue in what was once the centre of Sunday from noon to 5 p.m. with resumes of noon playing in the sand. While there is an the Shanghai Ghetto, the museum docu- their eligible sons or daughters attached to entrance fee (50 RMB), guests can pack their ments the rich and unique history of the umbrellas. For that adept in Mandarin, they own food, alcohol included. Unfortunately, city’s Jews. Ultimately, 20,000 lives were can easily decipher the most suitable of the no swimming is allowed. saved during as a result of Shanghai offi- bunch as written on a paper taped to the cials offering protective visas to Jewish umbrella is their child’s age, height, job, Equal parts fun and relaxing is Gongqing refugees from Germany, Austria and income, education as well as miscellaneous Forest Park. Located about 90 minutes away Poland. details about their personality. Tourists are from Shanghai, the park welcomes many welcome to watch from a distance or even locals, but few tourists make the trek to the The millions of tourists that flock to The take part in the action themselves. relatively remote Yangpu district. Families Bund, Nanjing Road or Shanghai Disney can spend a day enjoying the nature: trees, often miss many of the city’s incredible As with most cities, no trip to Shanghai lakes and rivers, but the park is also home gems. Located away from the hustle and would be complete without indulging in its to activities such as a roller coaster, paint- bustle, unique museums, markets or neigh- incredible food scene. While famous for its ball, tea-cups and log-rides. Admission to borhoods dot the map and provide guests buns: both the steamed and soup versions, the park is 80 RMB and the activities cost with an incredible window into one of the those delicacies only scratch the surface of extra. world’s great cities and cultures. the city’s culinary exploits. For a taste of the Shanghai of old, northwest All trips to Shanghai should begin with a The UnTour Food Tour will take your palate of the city centre is the Jiading District. While peek into China’s recent history. The off-the- along a culinary journey unique to known for factories and industry, the area is beaten-path Propaganda Poster Art Centre Shanghai. The Night Eats tour, which includ- ripe with history. Home to one of the best- offers a history lesson in Chinese politics ed five restaurants and two street stops, preserved Confucian temples in China, the through a privately-owned collection that allows you to sample dozens of dishes and area also boasts a museum, canals and lined Chinese streets and filled publications drinks while mingling with locals and tourists parks. The lack of tourists ensures that the from 1910 to 1990. Opened in 2002, the alike. UnTour’s experienced guides provided trip to Jiading will provide you with an museum is home to 6,000 pieces, making it the ideal evening activity, leaving you want- authentic day in a city that is filled with then most complete and thorough collection ing seconds and thirds. The group operates Western influences at every turn. of its kind in the world. Located in the former multiple day and evening food tours in French Concession district of the city, which Shanghai to ensure that tourists leave with a Whether it’s a relaxing day at Jinshan was formerly the city’s premiere residential complete picture of the city’s vast culinary Beach, being fit for an upcoming gala at the and retail district. scene. South Bund Soft Spinning Market or indulging in some local delicacies on one of While most tourists leave their suits and ties After familiarizing yourself with the heart of UnTour’s unique tours, these hidden gems at home, stopping at the South Bund Soft Shanghai, tourists should begin to explore are only some of the incredible sights and Spinning Market will ensure you come home beyond the city centre. On the Bund, but far sounds that can be found in the aptly named ready for the ball. This unique market is away from the skyscrapers is the West Bund Pearl of the Orient. home to hundreds of stalls filled with tailors district, which was emerged as a haven for ready to ensure you return home with a emerging artists. Established in 2014, the www.tourismchina.org

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2020-21

16

Around The World (in 22 pages)

Turkey's Mountainous Gem: Bursa by Olivia Balsinger

Though certainly off the beaten path, your next trip to Turkey should include at least three days in Bursa, the grandiose metropolis that lies in the foothills of Mount Uludağ, near the Sea of Marmara. A trip to Bursa is an adventure back in time- -exploring the mosques and historical sites from the early Virginia is for lovers Ottoman Empire makes one feel like Indiana Jones on a dar- by Olivia Balsinger ing, authentic mission. Virginia is for lovers--the state's slogan reminds us of this constant- While Istanbul can be overcrowded, Bursa is still under the ly. But did you know that Virginia is also for adventurers, for those radar and an accessible escape into Turkey’s dramatic and not intimidated to get their boots dirty and fill their soul with adren- mountainous backdrop. Though the city is generally more con- aline? And there is no place where adventure is plentiful like the servative than Istanbul, the locals are amiable and encourage Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia, one of the most diverse and tourism. One local suggestion is to take the Bursa Teleferik up iconic landscapes in the United States. And with 50 percent of to the top of the Uludag Mountain--and at a total length of America's population living within a day's drive of Virginia, these almost 10 km, this is one of the longest cable car rides in the mountains are easily accessible for a quick getaway into the fresh world. Safe to say, the view, at 2,500 meters above the city, is mountain air. For first-timers to Virginia beginning in Shenandoah striking (and explains why Bursa is a preeminent Turkish ski National Park is essential. destination!) There is no better choice for a five-star stay in Bursa than the Hilton Bursa Convention Center & Spa, sand- The park, breathtaking in all seasons, is long and narrow, with the wiched in the mountains and a stone’s throw from UNESCO Shenandoah River and its broad valley to the west, and the rolling sites, including the Osman Gazi Tomb. hills of the Virginia Piedmont to the east. Many visitors enjoy cast- ing down Skyline Drive, which is the main park road, that gently turkeytravelplanner.com curves through the park. And with almost 40% of the land area— 79,579 acres —designated as wilderness and is protected as part of the National Wilderness Preservation System, the countless wild China Tourism Introduces animals native to the area enjoy freedom and space. It is not New Brand Logo uncommon to spot a black bear, a white-tailed deer, or even a China National Tourism Administration (CNTA) has made bobcat while hiking on one of the many winding trails. And this rustic feeling of being immersed in nature doesn’t end after a day “Beautiful China” the tag line of its tourism and introduced a in the forests. Nestled in the heart of the park are a variety of new global brand logo. With an overall look as a stamp, the lodges that cater to all possible traveler’s desires. From the cozy Skyland Resort, spanning 27 acres and with its detached cabins sit- new logo integrates modern messaging with the ancient ting on the edge of the ridge to the six quite primitive cabins main- Chinese art form of calligraphy. The hieroglyph in the back- tained by The Potomac Appalachian Trail Club, each equipped with basics like mattresses, d cookware, and a pit toilet for the ground means “travel” in ancient Chinese language, which shows a flag guiding a couple around. more intrepid traveler, there is something for everyone in the heart The blue color represents the sky, delivering China tourism’s concepts - vitality, harmony and of Virginia’s mountain range. green travel. The red color gives tribute to the Chinese civilization that has been going on for www.virginia.org thousands of years. Illustrating an international vision, the “Beautiful China” logo represents China’s promising and welcoming tourism industry.

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2020-21

18 Good to Go! Great Travel Gear and Gadgets Our travel specialists review the best travel gear and gadgets to get you on the go better

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2020-21 19

RV Life Needs Ninjas!

We’re taking a lot more road trips these Don’t want to haul around a BBQ? Then days, so equipping your RV with the best Ninja® Foodi™ 5-in-1 Indoor Grill pro- compact equipment for quality travel living vides smokeless barbecuing in a tight is a good idea with these fabulous space, air frying, and roasting,too. Unique NinjaKitchen products. Ninja® Cyclonic Grilling Technology™ provides Professional Plus Kitchen System with perfect surround searing just like the big Auto-iQ is so much more than a blender- outdoor BBQs. It weighs less than 20 lbs. it doubles as a powerful food processor, and takes little space. too!

Team it up with the brand-new Ninja® Air Fryer Sheet Oven that folds up flat against the counter when not in use, and you have everything you need to make com- plete gourmet meals in a tight space. The small oven is a powerful little beast that air fries, air roasts, air broils, bakes, dehy- drates, keeps warm, and does bagels and toast, too.

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2020-21 Intrepid Releases First Ever “How” To Go In 2021 List Photos: Intrepid Travel

Nepal

s travel faces further uncertainty in neutral for over 10 years and operates over ularity of the “slow travel movement”, a 2021, Intrepid is shifting their focus 800 tours on all seven continents, developed trend developing among other tour opera- Atowards how we travel in the near these five foundations by looking at internal tors. Trips highlighting the new Intrepid future. Intrepid is unveiling over 30 new itin- booking data, search data, as well as wider Retreats include the 5-day Greece Retreat: eraries as part of the announcement, with societal trends. They all helped inform Syros Island and 5-day Croatia Retreat: their new tours built around the 5 foundations Intrepid’s new tours in 2021, as they contin- Lastovo Island. of their How To Go list that reflect the realities ue to reimagine adventure travel in the post- of post-COVID travel. COVID world. 2. Go into the wild – In 2021/2022, Intrepid departs on their inaugural Antarctica With the impacts of COVID-19 continuing to The five foundations that make up Intrepid’s Expedition on the Ocean Endeavour. This be felt around the world, Intrepid Travel, the How To Go In 2021 list are: first sail celebrates Intrepid becoming a true world’s largest adventure travel company seven-continent operator, and will offer activ- and certified travel B Corp, has released 1. Go slower – Over the past few months, ities like camping, kayaking and snowshoe- their first ever “How” To Go In 2021 list. The Intrepid has launched 15 new Retreats, with ing. Intrepid saw a 70% increase globally in compilation, replacing the annual “where to more planned in 2021. This new tour theme searches to their Antarctica pages in go” lists, outlines five key trends that form enables travellers to unpack once and com- September 2020. Early signs show a strong the foundation of Intrepid’s new 2021 tour mit to a more considered pace in a single demand for all types of wilderness experi- offerings. location. The trips were developed in direct ences. In North America, pandemic-fueled response to COVID-19 for travellers to visitation has U.S. national parks tracking to With the timeline for reopening travel still engage with surrounding communities away break visitor records. Time outdoors after a unknown, Intrepid, who has been carbon from crowds and in a more controlled set- year defined by lock-downs and increased ting. The Retreats speak to the growing pop- screen time will be more important than

New Zealand Egypt Antarctica catalyst for the regenerative travel move- 21 ment. The goal is to minimize our impact while proactively working to benefit the desti- nations and communities we visit. Prior to the pandemic the global tourism industry accounted for 1 in 10 jobs, but it also con- tributed to 8% of global GHG emissions. In the future, regardless of where we go, adopting sustainable and regenerative travel practices has never been more important. Myanmar Slovenia “In 2021, travellers around the world will ever, as new research shows that spending continue to be faced with varying levels of About Intrepid Travel more time outdoors will have a positive restrictions and limited destinations they can Independently owned by the founders and staff of impact on our mental health. Beyond visit,” says James Thornton, CEO of Intrepid Intrepid Travel, Intrepid Group is a collection of Antarctica, Intrepid continues to see steady Travel. “This year we knew our focus would three tour operator brands and 25 destination man- bookings to the Galapagos Islands and on need to be less about the where and more agement companies united by the vision of their Africa safaris for the second half of about the how, looking at the ways in which Changing the Way People See the World. For more 2021. we will travel better in the future. Whether than 30 years, Intrepid has been taking small it’s closer to home or further abroad, travel groups to travel the local way, on real life experi- 3. Go on your terms – As travellers around has changed forever, and together we must ences that give back to the places and people we the world face varying levels of comfort and create a new normal, focused on rebuilding visit. As this style of travel has caught on, Intrepid travel restrictions, customization and flexibili- travel better than it was before.” has grown and in 2019 offered more than 2,700 ty will be two key pillars for the future of trips to more than 130 countries and on all seven travel. Intrepid Travel has spent the past six To explore the full How To Go In 2021 list, continents months revamping their Tailor-Made offer- visit: https://www.intrepidtravel.com/how-to- www.intrepidtravel.com ing. In 2021, all 800+ Intrepid Trips will be go-2021. fully customizable and available for travellers to book with their own private group, whether it is their family, their ‘bubble’ or beyond. Intrepid has already seen a 120% increase in global search traffic for their cus- tom offerings over the past six months. Across the industry, interest in solo travel has also accelerated as a result of the pandemic. As people are debating their personal level of comfort before travelling, many are choosing to simply go on their own. So far in 2021, 31% of Intrepid Travel’s booked cus- tomers are solo travelers.

4. Go on a human-powered adventure – Intrepid has released four new cycling trips and four new walking trips in addition to over 90 active itineraries available in 2021. Cycling globally has been among the most widely adapted hobbies during the pandem- ic. Cities like London have seen up to a 300% increase in cyclists. In North America, some cities have started developing green recovery plans around reducing cars and optimizing their cities for cyclists. As Intrepid looks to provide more options for new active enthusiasts, they have launched the new 3- day England: Peak District Walking Retreat and 4-day Cycle New Zealand: Otago Rail Trail, among others.

5. Go to regenerate, not just sustain - As the world’s largest travel B Corp and a carbon- neutral travel company, Intrepid has focused their efforts on advocating for a responsible rebuild of the travel industry following the pandemic. They recently open-sourced a guide to decarbonize your travel business and their animal welfare policy as tools for other travel companies and consumers to travel more responsibly in the future. Beyond sustainability, COVID-19 has also been a

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2020-21 Exploring Istanbul by Olivia Balsinger

hey say it’s where East meets West. But of Turkey’s most acclaimed contemporary in reality, it is so much more than that. artists. TThe dichotomies in Istanbul, Turkey's largest city, are unparalleled—the metropolis Any epic city with so much to see will surely be is a dynamic and modern-day world center wary on the body. Luckily, Istanbul’s tradition- steeped in history and relevance for thou- al hammams offer authentic and rejuvenating sands of years. The bridge between Asia and experiences for the intrepid traveler. Europe, physically divided by the Bosporus Hammams are not quite bathhouses and are Straight, Istanbul embodies the best of all not entirely massage parlors—they are cham- worlds—it is truly an epicenter of art, culture, bers designed with wall to wall stones and a food, and history. scorching altar-like slab in the middle of the room. Surrounded by history in the heart of the Sultanahmet District, declared a World I split my time in Istanbul between two luxuri- Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1985, On my ous hotels. Located in the city’s prestigious first morning, I found shelter in a rustic coffee Sariyer district, The Six Senses Kocataş house. Turkish coffee is more than just a Mansions lives up to the brand name. With means to a caffeine-rush in Istanbul—it is an stunning interiors, a fantastic art collection, integral part of the city. There is a ritual of and a spa that captivates serenity, this hotel bringing sugar to the boil in a unique pot should be on the wishlist of any discerning called a cezve, which is then served elegantly traveler to Istanbul. Next, I went to the heart in a dainty cup and saucer. of Taksim Square for a stay at The Grand Hyatt Istanbul, another five-star urban resort Once caffeinated, it was time to explore the surrounded by peaceful gardens that prides intricacies of the old city further. My first stop itself on its four restaurants that each bring was the 400-year-old Sultan Ahmed Mosque, out the unique flavors of Istanbul. often nicknamed The Blue Mosque, as the blue tiles that envelop the structure are A transcontinental city bursting with history, breathtaking. Though one of the most popu- Istanbul is one of those rare gems that serv- lar tourist spots in the entire city, The Blue ices all. For the luxury traveler, for the curious Mosque is still functioning as a worship place backpacker, for the historian, for the lover of and is not a museum. Staring at The Blue culture, Istanbul not only delivers but with- Mosque is the equally stunning Hagia Sophia stands the tests of time. museum, a testament to how sophisticated the ancient world was during Byzantine times. www.goturkey.com Built from around 537 until 143, Hagia Sophia has been the world’s largest cathedral for nearly one thousand years.

Following my time travel to the ancient world and Istanbul’s antiquities, I stepped back into the modern world with a visit to The Istanbul Modern Art Museum, located in the Beyoğlu district of Istanbul. A homage to contempo- rary and experimental art, the installations and sculptures at this museum feature some

Cappadocia, Where Magic Transcends Reality by Olivia Liveng

s a travel writer with an intrepid spirit, mately connecting tourists with Cappadocia’s I had believed that I was immune to a nature and culture. I enjoyed horseback rid- Atotal sensory shock when the plane’s ing through the impressive vineyards of wheels landed in an entirely foreign destina- Cappadocia valley, stopping every so often tion for the first time. Though traversing the for a picture opportunity or to marvel at the world for the work was a career I could only landscape. Our tour ended as the sun began conjure in my wildest dreams until that first to set, creating an atmosphere out of a assignment years back, I never realized an romance novel (If I weren’t already married, unintended consequence would mean that I’d this would have been where I’d want to be soon be saturated with the ability to be proposed to!) Another activity that tantalized amazed. That is until I landed in Cappadocia all senses was our cooking class - the tour for the first time. operator shopped with us to find local ingre- dients at the market before being brought to Cappadocia, a historical region about a 1.5- a rural kitchen in untouched nature where hour flight from Istanbul, is a different uni- local entrepreneurial women taught us to verse-where Nature is omnipotent, and all make soup and two local dishes, dolma, and human-made activities are built around it. sarma. The landscape is surreal, formed as a conse- quence of three volcanic eruptions, with the It’s not only the activities in Cappadocia that remnants spilled over hundreds of meters. Am are so authentic and unique to the area. My I still on planet Earth or did I mistake my tremendous stay at the four-star Sultan Cave plane for a moon rocket? Usually bustling Suites was an experience in itself. Perched with global tourists, winter was the prime time atop Aydinli Hill, this unique hotel offers cave to revel in the unspoiled beauty. rooms furnished with antiques from through- out Turkey. Between the breathtaking views Though many choose to rent a car and from the stone terraces, to the deep tissue adventure on their own, for my first visit, I massage that greeted me post a day of hik- decided to explore with the local tour compa- ing, there was no better place to retreat than ny, Goreme Kelebek Travel, to be assured I to my cave (and how often does a traveler get wouldn’t miss out on any of the magic. And to say that!) just minutes after getting picked up at sunrise for the most quintessential Cappadocia activ- www.goturkeytourism.com ity-hot air ballooning-I was elated with my decision. Though countless operators provide this experience, Goreme Kelebek Travel dif- fers in their exclusive packages—flights tai- lored for only 2, 4, or 8 provide a more sophisticated and private experience, instead of elbowing strangers for a glimpse over the side of the balloon.

But Goreme Kelebek Travel goes way beyond the classic tours here and prides itself on inti-

26

Hikone Castle, Japan: Beyond Imagination Article and photography by Steve Gillick

ikone Castle is a stunning original Express train to Maibara, and then switched to Eventually we descended the Castle’s sloping structure dating to 1622. It was a local express train for the five minute trip to stone ramps to the base of the hill to see Hspared during the Meiji period Hikone (not to be confused with Hakone, the Raku-raku-en (literally “paradise”), the origi- when many of Japan’s castles were demol- famous Hot Spring (Onsen) town southwest of nal 1679 residence of Li Naoki, the 4th Lord ished and it’s only one of five castles that have Tokyo). Any fear of getting lost was quickly of Hikone. The zelcova wood structure was been designated as National Treasures. After dispelled by the prominent sign inside Hikone built around a beautiful, expansive garden climbing the broad, stone-stepped hill on Station that portrayed a cartoon Samurai rab- (Genkyu-en) featuring a central pond with which the Castle sits, visitors can quickly bit next to a large red arrow pointing to the four small islands connected by bridges, as appreciate the special nature of this place. A exit, along with the caption “10 min. on foot well as rock gardens, stone lanterns and a sign by the ‘Time-Keeping Bell’ notes that this to Hikone Castle”. variety trees that include pine, maple and is one of the “100 Selected Soundscapes of cherry. On days with sunny, clear skies, such Japan”, based on the resonance of the bell, An easy walk through the city leads visitors to as the November day of our visit, the Castle, the songs of the Cicadas in the summer, and Irohamatsu, “the street of the 47 Pine Trees”, perched on the hill above, is perfectly reflect- the chorus of crickets in Genkyu-en, the that passes alongside the Castle moat where ed in the garden pond below. Castle garden. And surrounding the Castle Cormorants and Egrets compete for sun- hill are the Shiga Prefecture Mountains, with bathing spots. And after ascending a small A visit to Hikone Castle makes for a fascinat- ancient Lake Biwa (the largest freshwater Lake hill, visitors come face-to-face with the spec- ing side trip. It was far beyond what we had in Japan) shining like a jewel down below. tacularly picturesque Castle Keep, or Donjon imagined. (the best defended and most prominent struc- We chose Hikone as a day trip on our journey ture in a Castle, resembling a multi-storied www.japan.travel from Kanazawa to Fukuoka. We used our lookout). Japan Rail Pass for the two hour Limited The main castle tower features a stark white exterior, complemented by decorative black tiles that outline a variety of curved and trian- gular gables and bell-shaped windows. Inside the tower, visitors ascend a series of steep, steep stairs to reach the viewing windows on the top level. The stairs were part of the Castle’s defensive strategy as it was difficult for an enemy, outfitted in bulky Samurai armour, to overwhelm the tower via the high, precipitous steps that could only be climbed on a one-enemy-at-a-time basis. Canadian World Traveller Winter 2020-21

28

Qatar Airways Qsuite Sets Precedent in Air Travel by Olivia Balsinger

alavanting around the world the flight attendant woke me up as we class on many airlines, but Qatar Airways just got a whole lot easier–and descended into Doha’s dawn on an sets the new standard. The lovely stew- a whole lot more glamorous. overnight from New York City. Qatar’s ardess who greeted me as I stepped onto GQatar Airways has proved that travel–even Qsuite (Business Class) was undoubtedly the flight showed me all of the (countless) luxury travel–does not have to break the the finest flying experience of my life amenities travelers with this airline class bank. Further, the airline is an industry Here’s why: receive. Afterward, she smiled and told leader in aviation travel that doesn’t create me I had the option to close my curtains, extra headaches or grievances. My Qsuite Journey which ultimately sealed my belief that I wasn’t on an airplane but in the comfort And with direct flights to Doha from more I was fortunate to travel Qsuite -the first of of my cozy living room. than 150 destinations on every inhabited its kind in business class-which provided continent, Qatar Airways is genuinely con- me complete privacy when I wanted it, Even better, had I been traveling with my necting the world. As one who typically along with ambient mood lighting and a husband or other family members, we loathes flying, I was disappointed when fully flatbed. I have flown business or first could have even chosen seats amenable metropolis? The possibilities were endless. Middle East, to find pearl shops and 29 The most difficult decision I made was to tea shops where men still gather to commence with a French onion soup or play Dama’s classic game. Whether escargot (of course, my answer was oui to eating traditional Qatari food or getting both!) The Quite menu adheres to the whimsically bewildered in the labyrinth of structure of a four-course meal - with people watching, the Souq is not to miss. soup, appetizers, and desserts – with a post-sleep 'breakfast' (starters and mains) Qatar is also equally modern, as it is as the final destination is in sight. Of timeless. The sheer decadence and luxury course, there are lighter options available found within Qatar’s hotels are reason that can be enjoyed at any time during the enough to visit. Take The Mondrian Doha, flight. in Doha’’s West Bay Lagoon neighbor- hood. The property’s 270 rooms have The stewardess went out of her way, sur- views of the human-made Pearl Island. I prising me with champagne and chocolate enjoyed a luxurious detoxing massage when landing in Doha and with Maha much-needed swim in the penthouse pool. Gold Service (meet and greet’ service) The hotel epitomizes dual elegance and both during arrival and departure. I felt creativity, described as Alice in like royalty in the air. Wonderland in real life, the whimsical architecture by famed Dutch designer Stopover Program Marcel Wanders. One misconception among Western tourists is that because It gets even better. Until discovering oil in Qatar is primarily governed under Sharia 1939, Qatar cultivated its most significant Law, there are zero legal drinking oppor- profit and recognition from pearl diving. tunities. However, five-star international But it has since grown, making its consid- hotels are allowed to sell alcohol to for- erable mark on the tourism map. Typically, eigners. Two Qatari hotspots are found in accommodation is one of the costliest The Mondrian, Masaharu Morimoto's new expenses on vacation. However, travelers Morimoto Doha, and the bespoke Black can alleviate this cost when they transit via Orchid club. Doha for a few days with Qatar Airway’s Stopover Program. Finally, there are only two countries where the desert sand meets Qatar and This generous program waives visa fees Namibia’s ocean. Few things spike adren- from eighty countries. It also provides aline more than a safari in a 4X4 through accommodation at luxury four or five-star Qatar’s vast desert, about an hour and a hotels, such as InterContinental Doha or half ride from Doha city center. The radio Souq Waqif Boutique Hotel for two is blasting Arabian-French techno music nights—for a mere USD 100 booking fee! as a white Land Cruiser picks up speed. The experienced guide smiles slightly mis- to a four-person work area or even a dou- A Whole New World chievously and revs the engine before ble bed. Imagine that-flying with a partner accelerating through this stunning natural and given the luxury of a double bed- Once landed in Doha, I was equally oasis as the sound of sand descending the heck, airplanes become more comfortable blown away. Indeed, Doha itself has slopes overwhelms. Q-Explorer Tours is a and luxurious than home! proven to be a significant tourism draw. professional tour operator that handles The city is significantly smaller than Dubai individual and group guided arrange- And how often do we dread long airplane and Abu Dhabi, which allows it to keep its ments, catering to specific itinerary desires rides simply due to the pit of hunger that slightly provincial feel. While travelers can and budgets. In addition to dune bashing, manifests after barely being able to digest still find modern high-end innovations, the company provides many other oppor- airplane food? The airline also provides such as Doha Festival City with an Angry tunities to explore Qatar’s culture, gas- business class passengers an “a la carte” Birds theme park, Qatar stays true to its tronomy, and natural beauty. dining option, making my constant hunger heritage in several ways. I visited the Souq more manageable. Was I on a flight or in Waqif, one of the most traditional in the www.qatarairways.com a five-star restaurant in the center of a

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2020-21 30

Traditional Beef Empanadas

Naya Traveler Creates Online Recipe Book

eeping it simple and authentic, the Argentina she dips them in sugar before biting into founders of Naya Traveler has com- them! Kpiled a list of their favorite recipes Traditional Beef Empanadas - Empanadas are collected over the years during their travels: a popular staple in Argentine cuisine. They Cambodia the ones that they brought home with them are easy to make, convenient to eat either at and adopted as their own. Easy to make, no- home, a gathering or on the go. The fillings Khmer Chicken Mango Salad - Having lived fuss ingredients, and delicious flavors that are as diverse as the country’s own land- in Cambodia a few years back, this was the bring them back to the busy streets of Jaipur, scapes and the methods of preparing these one recipe founder Marta Tucci took with her hidden riads of Fes, or the sleepy countryside hand-eating delights vary from region to when she left, and it’s become a recurring of Cambodia. These dishes are full of her- region, where preparing them has become a event in her kitchen ever since. For her, this itage and distinctive character of their home well-established ritual easily reenacted at salad is a vivid representation of everything countries, both for locals and travelers alike. home. Nevertheless, the meat empanadas Cambodia is - colorful, busy, a little hectic, Full recipes are detailed in The Naya Traveler remain the most traditional and well-loved green and tangy. Recipe Book: www.nayatraveler.com variety. Ask Naya Traveler’s Argentine-native founder Sofia Mascotena, and she’ll tell you

Khmer Chicken Mango Salad Atay Bi Nana (Mint Tea) Gazpacho Andaluz Moroccan Mint Tea is more than just a popu- 31 lar drink—it is a ceremonial act and marker of great Moroccan hospitality. Therefore, when making Moroccan Mint Tea, the proce- dures of preparing and serving it are just as important a part as drinking it.

Spain

Gazpacho Andaluz - In the heat of Spain southern region of Andalusia, Gazpacho is the ultimate nutritious thirst-quencher. We don’t like to call this a chilled soup, since Naya-Recipe-Book-Cover there’s no actual cooking involved—a drink- able salad perhaps? And since it’s a raw dish, the key to a successful Gazpacho is found in the quality of the ingredients: ripe tomatoes, India cucumber, red pepper, garlic, onions, bread, vinegar and extra-virgin olive oil. Finally, to Masala Chai, which translates into spiced tea, turn this vegetable juice into a true personifies the scent and taste that India Andalusian Gazpacho, you must not forget wakes up to every morning. This spiced black the sacramentos, a series of garnishes to tea is milky, rich and full of energizing flavor taste, such a boiled eggs, homemade crou- to start your day right. The fragrant aroma of tons, and a generous dash of fragrant olive the spices will immediately transport you to oil. the eclectic streets of India, where chai wal- lahs (tea vendors) stationed at every corner Brazil ceremoniously blend the masala, brew the mixture and pull the tea in small metal cups Pão de Queijo - These oven-baked cheese for passerby’s. bites are a popular snack and breakfast food in Brazil. Despite its simplicity, this delicious Traveling Spoon Launches Online recipe is charged with cultural heritage: the Cooking Classes origins of Pao de Queijo can be traced back to the state of Minas Gerais during the Gold Traveling Spoon recently launched online Rush in the 18th century, a staple for the slave cooking classes with their hosts across the population at the time. Since then, it has globe. Travel from your own kitchen and become hugely popular across South explore new cultures and cuisines, all while This salad is made with a few and simple America, and variations of it can be found supporting locals around the world. All class- ingredients that are full of contrasting flavors across Latin America. es are private and are scheduled at your con- and textures. Although it’s possible to make venience. Classes are being offered for an substitutions (substitute the chicken with tofu Guatemala introductory price of $25USD for any class, for a veggie version), the key to its authentic up to four guests in the household. All classes Cambodian flavor lies in the green mango, so Guacamole - The rightful claim to this global- will be conducted over Zoom. The first one- try to stick with this ingredient if you can. If ly beloved dip belongs to the Mayas, one of on-one classes launching include empanada you’re like Marta, you’ll want to add the last the world’s major ancient civilizations that making with Gabriela in Buenos Aires, hand- optional ingredient to give it a little kick. once expanded throughout Central America. made pasta with Cinzia in Florence and During the heyday of the Mayan Empire, avo- Moroccan tajine with Chamsi in Casablanca. Morocco cados were a treasured crop eaten as a snack View all of the classes at: www.travel- or accompanying more elaborate food ingspoon.com/onlinecookingclasses. Atay Bi Nana (Mint Tea) - There couldn’t be a preparations. more iconic flavor to transport us straight into www.nayatraveler.com the heart of Morocco than sweet and fragrant Not much has changed to this day, except the Atay Bi Nana. For founder Sarah Casewit, growth of Guacamole’s popularity across the who was born and raised in Morocco, the rit- world. Residents of Antigua Guatemala are ual of Atay Bi Nana is a way to remain con- affectionately nicknamed ‘Panzas Verdes’ nected to her roots and childhood memories. (green bellies) as a result of their reliance on avocados and guacamole at every meal.

Pão de Queijo Guacamole Masala Chai,

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2020-21 32 Fashioned Prime Burger was my main choice, topped with crimini mushrooms, melted Swiss cheese, carmelized onions and horse radish with some crispy fries. I did my best to conserve some appetite for a crazy shake and opted for the Cake Shake. Black Tap 35th is located at 45 West 35th Street and open from 11 am to mid- night daily.

A Brazilian Dining Experience

Fogo de Chão (fogo-dee-shown) is a lead- ing Brazilian steakhouse, or churrascaria, specializing in the centuries-old Southern Brazilian cooking technique of churrasco – the art of roasting high-quality cuts of meats over open flame, all of which are carved tableside by Brazilian-trained gau- cho chefs. There is Picanha (signature sir- loin), Filet Mignon, Ribeye, Fraldinha (Brazilian sirloin) Cordeiro (lamb) and more. In addition to the main dishes, they boast a gourmet market table, authentic Tao Uptown Brazilian side dishes, and an award-win- ning wine list.

There are currently 56 locations throughout Brazil, the United States, Mexico and the Three recommended dining tips in New York Middle East. I had a chance to experience this restaurant for the very first time at the by Mike Cohen beautiful West 53rd Street location in mid- town Manhattan. I opted in favor of the Full Churrasco Experience, which for $69.95 aelier this year I spent some quality includes a sushi bar, lounge and two bars includes the trained chefs coming to your time in New York City and enjoyed at which to enjoy the food and the show. table. The beyond impressive market table some fine cuisine. We started off with some drinks: a signa- and feijoada bar is included, featuring sea- E sonal salads, soups, fresh vegetables, ture Tao-tini, a glass of prosecco and a Tao Uptown Bubbles and Berries. We then moved on to imported charcuterie, hearts of palm, giant some appetizers: The Peking duck spring asparagus, fresh buffalo mozzarella We were elated to get a reservation at TAO rolls with hoisin sauce, the spicy tuna cheese, sun dried tomatoes, fresh cut and Uptown (www.taogroup.com), an upscale tartare on crispy rice and the salmon sashi- steamed broccoli, marinated artichoke bot- Pan-Asian brand, located at 42 East 58th mi followed by miso glazed Chilean sea toms, tabbouleh, smoked salmon, an Street. There is also a TAO Downtown, as bass, grilled 12 ounce imperial waygu rib- assortment of fine cheeses and much more. well as locations in Las Vegas, Chicago and eye (served with crispy fried onions and From the dessert menu I chose the Tres Los Angeles. wow this was beyond amazing!) and lob- Leches Cake. For more information visit ster and kimchee fried rice. For dessert we http://www.fogo.com. Tao has three levels of dining including the shared a giant fortune cookie. prized "Skybox," which offers views of this former movie theatre unparalleled in New Black Tap York. In addition to its 300 seats, Tao What fun it was for me to experience a Black Tap (www.blacktap.com) restaurant for the first time and no less their new flag- ship 35th Street location (known as Black Tap 35th). There are two others in NYC as well as locales at Downtown Disney in California and at the Venetian in Las Vegas. Internationally you can find them in Bahrain, Kuwait, Singapore, Switzerland and the United Arab Emirates.

I started off with the Queso & Chips appe- tizer – zesty cheese served with warm tor- Black Tap tilla chips and a house salad. The Old Fogo de Chão Canadian World Traveller Winter 2020-21 Subscribe

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Come With Us & See The World! 34 A Journey of the Senses

At the crossroads of Europe and Take flight in a hot air balloon at sunset European-style quarter of Karşıyaka which AAsia is Istanbul, with a rich history also offers excellent sea views. Notable spanning over two thousand On everyone’s bucket list should be a hot nearby highlights are the enchanting years. Strategically located on the air balloon flight at sunrise. People travel ancient ruins of Ephesus, one of the Seven Bosphorus Strait, Istanbul is a vibrant city to Cappadocia from all over the world to Wonders of the Ancient World. The nearby where east and west meet to create this take part in this spectacular sight of hot air village of Çeşme is a charming gastro- unique cultural capital. Istanbul is home to balloons making their gentle flight over the nomic paradise with its whitewashed hous- an estimated 15 million inhabitants, built valleys and fairy chimneys, lit up by the ris- es and blue painted windows. on seven hills, and topped by the minarets ing sun. Accommodation ranges from of over 3,000 mosques including the world- cool and rustic cave hotels to elegant and Turkish food in Izmir has many influences famous Blue Mosque and Hagia Sofia. luxurious houses. Traditional Turkish baths and flavours for every palate. Izmir meat- (hamams) in which to relax and unwind is balls, called köfte, are enjoyed across Mouth-watering tastes worth travelling for also a highlight. During your stay, venture Turkey, made lovingly with local spices and into underground cities, cave churches and served in a tasty tomato sauce. Try local It is the food that leaves the greatest the outdoor museums to learn more about specialty Kumru, the perfect on-the-go impression. Traditional Anatolian staples the history of this special place. snack of sausage, cheese and tomato such as doughy manti (dumpling), freshly Cappadocia is also famous for its wine, served in bread, or the delicious pastry squeezed juices sold on every street corner and a must experience element of your Boyoz, which can only be found in Izmir and sesame covered simit rolls, perfectly meal. and should not be missed! accompanied by Turkish çay (tea). The smell of fresh fish or rich Turkish coffee are The colourful Aegean coastal city of Izmir often in the air. In Western Anatolia on a bay of turquoise water is the Aegean coastal city of Izmir, where archaeological sites remind visitors of a rich history set against a backdrop of the hilltop Kadifekale castle. Spot one of the most famous landmarks of Izmir, the Clock Tower designed by French architect Raymond Charles Pere dating back to 1901. To enjoy the view and save your legs from the 155 steps connecting city streets, use the public elevator known as Asansör. Another alternative is the modern The luxurious ancient port city of Bodrum 35

Rugged, rolling mountains meet the shores of the crystal blue Aegean Sea in the small city of Bodrum. The Aegean coastal city is spread across a double bay, mixing ancient and modern history. The city is home to the ancient Greek city of Halicarnassus, site of the Tomb of Mausolus, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Along the coastline is the well-preserved medieval Bodrum Castle which offers superb views and is home to the Museum of Underwater Archaeology.

Renowned for its unique "sugar cube" Going Further With houses, Bodrum is one of Turkey’s gems and is fast becoming the first choice for holidaymakers the world over. Turkish Airlines Escape to small villages or enjoy the lowing reviews and exceptional organized. Most Business Class passengers extravagance of its many five-star hotels food are the order of the day for can expect either fully lie-flat seats or angled and bustling nightlife, Bodrum is the place G lie-flat seats that brings relaxation to a higher this up-and-coming airline! where the green of the forest meets the level. clear blue waters of the Aegean Sea. Part of the Star Alliance network, Turkish air- lines (THY) offers service to Canadians from Comfort Class is Turkish Airlines' premium Make sure your flight is part Toronto and Montreal, and connections to economy section is highlighted by slightly of the vacation destinations all over the world from their hub larger seats configured in two-by-three-by- in Istanbul. two rows, a large video screen and entertain- Vacation time is precious, so make every ment system with an iPod outlet and a laptop minute count by starting your trip the Building on their international reputation, THY power outlet for each seat. moment you step onto the plane. The has been climbing the ranks as a top provider award-winning products and services of and doing very well in Canada. Even passengers traveling in Economy Class Turkish Airlines’ Business Class provide an can enjoy an above average trip, as all pas- unparalleled experience with the utmost With 321 destinations, and adding new ones sengers enjoy the famed THY complimentary elegance. Prior to take off, passengers can at a rapid pace, THY welcome travellers with meal. Though multi-course meals are provid- benefit from extra baggage allowance, pri- smiles and a friendly hello, though often with ed in Business Class on extended range ority check-in and boarding, and access to a charming accent! flights, all passengers are treated to the Turkish Airlines Lounges. award winning food served on board. Their aircraft include A330s, A340s, B777s, Considering that THY deals with one of the Relax in exclusive seats, with massage B737-800s and B727-800s, all well main- world’s biggest (maybe the biggest) catering functions, that convert your seat into a 188 tained and laid-out with the customer in service and are partners with Do & Co., there cm flat bed. Delight in gourmet dishes pre- mind. Each section is designed with creature is no surprise in the quality THY can offer! pared and cooked to your taste by Flying comforts taking front and centre. The seats www.turkishairlines.com Chefs, and enjoy comfort kits to maximize throughout the plane are comfortable and the your wellness on-board. Business Class facilities are kept impeccably clean and also offers a cutting-edge in-flight enter- tainment system, films in different lan- guages, a wide assortment of audio- books, a great range of music and much more. It boasts award-winning catering designed for any palate where you can enjoy international cuisine and local Turkish specialties such as ‘pide’ and ‘börek’ with fresh fruit juices and tea.

Whether you are enjoying the wonders of Turkey for several weeks or only a few days as part of the Turkish Airlines Stopover Program, Turkish hospitality and wonder awaits.

Are you ready to Widen Your World?

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2020-21 36 Tropical Tidbits by Sue C Travel

o say 2020 was a challenging year for diving, snorkeling and windsurfing this year responsible and a socially distancing way. Tthe travel industry would be an under- with WestJet’s new non-stop once-weekly sea- And there are many off-radar stays that can statement, but things are looking up for sonal service from Toronto starting February cater to your gang that won’t break the bank those who cannot resist the siren call of the 6th, 2021. The little Dutch Caribbean island if you split the cost with a group. tropics, especially during these bleak winter welcomes the new direct routes with open months. Tropical travel this year is definitely arms as historically getting there from For example: Sunset Villa (formerly Casa Canada included long days and connecting Alistaire) in Savaneta, Aruba, sleeps 8 in a doable for most, but the landscape is con- flights from the US or neighboring islands. split-level semi-overwater bungalow with a stantly changing, so make sure you’re very up And don’t forget to visit their unique pink lake professional kitchen, a grand piano and even to date on each destination’s current health with flamingoes while you’re there! a massive crystal chandelier! Great swimming protocols and that you are able to abide by and snorkeling is right off their sprawling them, and purchase travel insurance that cov- https://www.westjet.com/en-ca/book- deck and there’s even a stand-alone bar for ers possible pandemic issues. So, let’s see trip/destination-guide/discover/bonaire entertaining. It’s a sister property to Aruba what’s new and what to look forward to this Ocean Villas which is a few minutes away coming year throughout the Caribbean. Ville life is trending where you’ll find the island’s exclusive adult- Travel safe, stay positive, and test negative! only stand-alone overwater villas, ideal for One of the biggest searches on the internet couple’s romantic escapes. New direct air to Bonaire! recently has been for stand-alone villas in paradise where a small group of friends or a www.arubaoceanvillas.com/rooms/ Canadians will have an easier time than ever large family can holiday together in a safe, getting to beautiful Bonaire for spectacular

Bonaire Sunset Villa Aruba Nevaeh Anguilla Bucuti & Tara Beach Resort wins 37 prestigious eco-award

This luxurious adult-only boutique hotel on Aruba’s famed Eagle Beach has been the recipient of scads of environmental awards for sustainable tourism over the past two decades, in fact, it’s the most eco-certified and only carbon-neutral hotel in the Caribbean. But this last accolade was really Club Med over the top, even for these green pioneers! In the fall of 2020, they garnered the Global nial plantation style Grande Dame expanse United Nations 2020 Climate Action Award on Spanish Waters will transform the property for Climate Neutral Now, and it was also his- to offer Sandal’s unique style of adult-only, toric in so much that it was the first time in the all-inclusive pleasures. It will also include award’s 10-year history that a hotel received access to the incredible seaside Pete-Dye that ultimate honor. Congratulations! designed Old Quarry Championship Golf Course. www.bucuti.com www.sandals.com/curacao Jamaica Half Moon introduces new Eclipse Club Meds have you covered

This brand of budget all-inclusive really has a cult-following and their own brand of party culture-if you don’t know their famous dance “Crazy Signs” better look it up on YouTube ahead so you won’t feel left out! And they are happy to announce that their resorts in Cancún, Dominican Republic, and Turks & Caicos are once again open and ready to get that party started. But better yet, they have Hayward's - Eclipse at Half Moon greatly enhanced their safety and hygiene measures and their Emergency Assistance Program now provides all guests with cover- One of Jamaica’s most historic high-end age for emergency medical expenses during resorts is now ready to receive visitors at its Or on sparsely populated and pristine their stay, including those related to COVID- classy new addition called Eclipse at Half Anguilla, you’ll find secret villa rentals like 19. Moon. The luxurious new escape offers 57 Nevaeh (heaven spelled backwards) close to modern rooms, seven new bars/restaurants, www.clubmed.ca Long Bay Beach where you can walk for miles and a stunning infinity-edge saltwater and never see a soul. The Balinese inspired seafront pool. Guests can enjoy all the special St. Martin Secrets reopens & estate boasts nine bedrooms and you can hire experiences that Half Moon is known for as AMResorts sprout on St. Lucia a complete staff as well if you like. well such as golf and exceptional horseback adventures from their own on-site equestrian https://nevaehanguilla.com/ Secrets St. Martin Resort & Spa on the French centre. side of the island has reopened their luxury And on diving paradise Bonaire, look no fur- adult-only all-inclusive with a new https://www.halfmoon.com/rooms/eclipse ther than SunRentals Bonaire for an eclectic CleanComplete Verification™ program, a range of affordable luxe and intimate stand- 360-degree safety and hygiene protocol that All-inclusive news… alone abodes like multi-story oceanfront Villa addresses guest experiences from welcome to IslaBella with six bedrooms and five bath- departure. Parent company AMResorts has Curacao is getting a Sandals rooms! also now broken ground on the lovely island of St. Lucia where they will be adding two new I was delighted to hear that the legendary https://www.sunrentalsbonaire.com/ luxury all-inclusive resorts- a Dreams and a Santa Barbara Resort, that closed last year, Zoëtry to be completed in 2022. will get new life as the island’s very first Sandals soon. A major uplift of the old colo- www.amresorts.com

Award-winning travel journalist Sue Campbell is based in Montreal but makes it her business to be on top of everything cool, hot, and new under the sun throughout the Caribbean and Latin America. World Traveler welcomes her as a regular columnist. Follow her on Instagram and Twitter @suectravel Bucuti+Tara CleanEnergy Sandals Curacao

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2020-21 Arctic North Atlantic South Atlantic North

Cruisingwith TravelerWORLD

CRUISING SECTION

Cruise News - pages 40 - 41

Cruising South America with Princess - page 42

Le Fun on Le Boat: Cruising the Rideau Canal - page 44

Switching Masks - Snorkeling Adventures - page 46

This Photo: Windstar Spirit

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Sail The World!

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2020-21 40 AmaWaterways Avalon Azamara Carnival Celebrit

Cunard announces return to Mediterranean cruises in 2021 on the Queen Elizabeth

The iconic ship will chart 3 to 14 day voyages around Europe before mak- ing her way through Asia to Australia to end the season. Cunard president, Simon Palethorpe, said, “We are thrilled to announce such a broad new program for Queen Elizabeth, with sailings from Southampton and, later in 2021, from Barcelona. “Queen Elizabeth will finish her season with a transit through the Suez canal, crossing the Indian Poseidon Expeditions Announces Ocean to Singapore, before venturing to Australia. New 2022 Arctic and 2022-23 The 2021 itineraries will feature a series of overnight port calls to Amsterdam, Antarctic Cruises Copenhagen, Lisbon, Rotterdam, Singapore and Auckland, with late evening depar- tures from Amsterdam, Barcelona, Rotterdam, Aqaba, Colombo and Fremantle. Announcing the new 2022 Arctic and 2022- www.cunard.com 23 Antarctic polar cruise seasons three months earlier than usual and announcing a Atlas Ocean Voyages return to West Greenland for the first time in four years top the list for Poseidon Expeditions’ future plans for the 114-pas- With six months until launch, Atlas senger expedition ship Sea Spirit. Ocean Voyages’ World Navigator was floated out at West Sea Viana New for the 2022 Arctic season will be a Shipyard in Portugal. The ‘float out’ return to West Greenland, last visited by the marks the first time World Navigator Sea Spirit in early summer 2018. “It’s a pop- enters the water and floats of her own ular region for expedition cruising, combin- accord. Now in wet dock, the small ing Viking history, Inuit culture and commu- expedition ship is being outfitted with nity life, fjordland scenery and massive ice- elegant and luxurious amenities and bergs. We’re happy to be going back,” said décor. Meanwhile, construction of World Nikolay Saveliev, president of Poseidon. The Traveller, Atlas’ second expedition ship, is already in progress, and her keel was also 2022 West Greenland expedition voyages laid at West Sea Viana Shipyard. Designed for seasoned and fun-seeking travelers to include a May 27 12-day Land of the immerse in active and awe-inspiring experiences in less-trodden, bucket-list destina- Vikings, from Reykjavik, Iceland to tions, World Navigator and World Traveller will launch in July 2021 and mid-2022, Kangerlussuaq, Greenland and a June 7 respectively. Guests will enjoy one of the industry’s most-inclusive experiences with the eight-day Icebergs, Whales & Inuit Culture, luxe-adventure cruise brand’s signature All Inclusive All the Way. In addition to World round trip from Kangerlussuaq. Navigator and World Traveller, three additional expedition ships are on order for deliv- ery by the end 2023. In midsummer, the Sea Spirit will head far- www.atlasoceanvoyages.com ther northeast for a full schedule of depar- tures that explore Svalbard and the compa- ny’s signature explorations of the Franz Emerald Cruises Celebrates New Super Yacht Emerald Azzurra’s Float Out Josef Land Archipelago before returning to East Greenland in September for a pair of The newest offering from Emerald Cruises— 11-day Arctic Sights and Northern Lights ocean-going super yacht Emerald Azzurra— cruises that focus on the Aurora Borealis. floated out in December 2020 at the Halong

Cruise News Cruise Shipbuilding Company in Vietnam. The float Like the migrating seabirds that are often out marks just over a year until guests will be the focus of Poseidon’s onboard educational able to set sail on the highly anticipated 100- programs, the Sea Spirit follows the sun passenger super yacht when she debuts in south in October to begin its 2022-23 January, 2022. Antarctic season. This includes four Antarctic Peninsula voyages of 11-12 days; three Once complete, Emerald Azzurra guests will longer programs that include the Antarctic enjoy a small ship cruising experience with just 100 guests in 50 deluxe suites and state- Peninsula, South Georgia and the Falkland rooms—88 per cent of which include an outdoor balcony. The yacht also features an on Islands, from 21-23 days; and the popular board wellness center (including spa, gym & sauna), three tenders and a Zodiac for shore 15-day Crossing 66º South Latitude expedi- landings. Three on board dining locales give guests the opportunity to taste local flavours tion cruise. and savour cocktails while taking in the views. A marina platform on the yacht’s aft allows www.poseidonexpeditions.com easy access to snorkelling, paddle boarding or swimming. www.emeraldcruises.com

Royal-Caribbean Scenic Seabourn SeaDream Si ty Costa Crystal Cunard Disney Holland America 41 Hurtigruten MSC Norwegian Oceania Ponant Princess Regent Viking announces additional sails Viking announces Viking marks float out for new Mississippi river cruises 2020-23 world cruise of first expedition ship

Strong Demand Leads to Early Release of Guests on 138-Day Voyage Will Sail on 2023 Departure Dates Newest Ship in Viking’s Award-Winning Fleet

Viking® has recently announced its first expedition ship – the 378-guest Viking® has recently announced that new Viking Octantis® – was “floated out,” 2023 sailings of its Mississippi River cruises marking a major construction mile- are now on sale. The company’s first custom In response to strong demand for its World vessel, Viking Mississippi, will debut in Cruise itineraries, Viking® has announced its stone and the first time that the new August 2022 and will sail voyages on the new 2022-23 Viking World Cruise, which will ship touched water. Scheduled to Lower and Upper Mississippi River, between span 138 days, 28 countries and 58 ports, debut in early 2022, Viking Octantis New Orleans and St. Paul. Viking’s first river with overnight stays in 11 cities. Departing on will spend her maiden season sailing cruises in the U.S. had been highly anticipat- December 22, 2022 from Ft. Lauderdale, voyages to Antarctica and North ed when they were officially announced in guests will sail on Viking’s newest ocean ves- America’s Great Lakes. A second, April 2020, and several sailings have sel, Viking Neptune®, which will join the com- identical expedition ship, Viking already sold out. This strong demand has pany’s fleet of award-winning 930-guest Polaris®, is set to debut in summer led Viking to open additional 2023 sailing ocean ships in late 2022. 2022 and will sail journeys to dates sooner than originally expected. Antarctica and the Arctic. Viking World Cruise guests will embark in Viking’s arrival to the Mississippi will repre- Florida and journey to Central America, The new Polar Class 6 Viking Octantis sent a major commitment to tourism and before transiting the Panama Canal and sail- and Viking Polaris will host 378 guests economic development in many communi- ing up the West Coast of North America. A in 189 staterooms. Designed by the ties along the river, with the new cruises shorter, 121-day Viking World Journeys itiner- same experienced nautical architects expected to bring more than 5,800 guests to ary, is also available, allowing guests to join and engineers that designed Viking the region in 2022 and 17,600+ during the Viking Neptune in Los Angeles and cross the ocean ships, the ships are optimally first full sailing season in 2023. Currently Pacific Ocean to call in Hawaii, Australia and sized and built for expeditions – small scheduled ports of call on Viking’s new New Zealand, before exploring ports of call in enough to navigate remote polar Mississippi River cruises comprise seven U.S. Asia and the Middle East. Finally, the ship will regions and the St. Lawrence River, states: Louisiana (Baton Rouge, Darrow, journey through the Mediterranean and con- while large enough to provide superi- New Orleans and St. Francisville); clude the voyage in London. or handling and stability in the rough- Mississippi (Natchez and Vicksburg); est seas. The ships will feature public Tennessee (Memphis); Missouri (Hannibal, Viking’s newest World Cruise itinerary visits spaces that are familiar to Viking’s St. Louis); Iowa (Burlington, Dubuque and dozens of the world’s most iconic cities, along- ocean cruise guests but that have Davenport); Wisconsin (La Crosse); and side lesser-known destinations, in one seam- been reimagined for expeditions, as Minnesota (Red Wing, St. Paul). less itinerary. Overnight stays in 11 ports, such well as new public spaces created as Sydney, Haifa, and Istanbul, and double specifically for expeditions. Straight 2022-2023 Viking Mississippi Voyages: overnights in Auckland, Bali, Ho Chi Minh, bows, longer hulls and state-of-the- Yangon, and Mumbai allow guests to delve art fin stabilizers will allow the ships to America’s Great River deeper. While on board, Viking offers cultural glide over the waves for the calmest (15 days; New Orleans to St. Paul) enrichment through onboard lectures and possible journey; ice-strengthened entertainment – such as the Viking Resident Polar Class 6 hulls will provide the America’s Heartland Historian® program, which provides guests safest way to explore; and U-tank sta- (8 days; St. Louis to St. Paul) with a high-level historical and cultural educa- bilizers will significantly decrease tion specific to their journey. Guests will rolling by up to 50 percent when the Heart of the Delta immerse themselves in the world’s rich cul- ships are stationary. Viking’s expedi- (8 days; New Orleans to Memphis) tures during included excursions that provide tion ships will feature modern unmatched insight into daily life, as well as Scandinavian design with elegant Southern Celebration Privileged Access® visits to cultural institu- touches, intimate spaces and atten- (8 days; New Orleans–Vicksburg–New tions. tion to detail. Orleans) www.viking.com www.viking.com www.viking.com lversea Star-Clippers Uniworld Viking Windstar 42

Cruising South America with Princess by Daniel Smajovits

rom life-changing cultural experi- Itinerary locals. Although you will most likely remain ences, postcard worthy landscapes docked in Buenos Aires for your first night and the waddles of penguins at From the dynamic city of Buenos Aires, on board, ensure to arrive at least three Fevery turn, nothing excites all the senses Argentina to your final destination of days early to fully explore this captivating than the 14-day journey from Buenos Valparaíso, Chile, this itinerary runs the city and experience its rich history and cul- Aires, Argentina to Valparaíso, Chile. gamut of both man-made and natural ture. beauty. A growing number of cruise lines have Once the cruise begins in earnest, a short begun to serve this route, but as one of the The bustling Argentinian capital of Buenos sail north is Montevideo, Uruguay, where pioneers in South American cruising, Aires is undoubtedly one of the world’s wineries and beaches are within an hour Princess Cruises has mastered every aspect greatest cities. Dubbed the Paris of South drive from the port, but only a short walk of the journey, ensuring that as guests, your America, you’re instantly captivated by away is a thriving market and winding only concern is trying to squeeze the last outer and inner beauty of both the unique streets filled with a market as well as drop out of each day. European architecture and the Porteños, or charming street art and cafés. As your ship moves further south, prepare Whether via tour or transfer, almost all exclusive Sanctuary, an adult-only 43 yourself for two days of cuteness-overload guests end up in the Chilean capital of escape from the rambunctious fun as penguins are the must-see excursions in Santiago before their flights home. Despite and noise. If you’re looking to truly Puerto Madryn, Argentina and Stanley, having spent an incredible two weeks trav- pamper yourself or simply get away from Falkland Islands. We recommend booking eling, carve out at least one day to take in your cruise-mate, consider one or a full- penguin visits at both ports as rough seas the best that Santiago has to offer. From day of treatments at the Lotus Spa. and unpredictable weather occasionally high atop San Cristobal Hill to the barrios Selections vary per ship. force ships to skip the tender-only port of of Brasil, Lastarria and Bellavista, the city’s Stanley. To ensure you make the most of unique atmosphere is captivating and a Once the sun sets, nightly comedy, variety your visit to the infamous British outpost in worthy exclamation point to your South and musical shows bring your evenings to the Atlantic Ocean, reserve your Volunteer American journey. With the sprawling life, while multiple bars – including Point tour with Jimmy Curtis well in Andes mountain range to the east, the Crooners, which features a live pianist – advance. The private penguin refuge caps city’s landscape is only topped by a bevy of help to cap off the night. If a full day on the number of daily visitors and Jimmy’s fine restaurants, markets and cultural shore has you looking for a more relaxing tours sell out almost instantly. attractions. The Central Market is a must way to spend your night, grab two deck stop for mouth-watering seafood and local chairs, hot chocolate, popcorn and blan- Once back on board, batten down the delicacies. kets for Movies Under the Stars. hatches as rough waters await you as the ship gets closer to Cape Horn and the On-board Experience Staterooms southernmost point of the Americas. Most ships cross through the Beagle Channel With both traditional and anytime dining With such a breathtaking journey awaiting and stop in Ushuaia, Argentina, often options, guests have some of the best food you in South America, splurging for a bal- referred to as the End of the World. Natural available at sea regardless of the time of cony stateroom will take your cruise experi- beauty awaits as a short trip from the port day. The latest creations added to the menu ence to the next level. Providing guests with is Tierra del Fuego National Park. While are dishes crafted by celebrity chef Curtis everything in a standard stateroom, the some travellers might opt for an expensive Stone, featured nightly in the Main Dining added balcony and outdoor furniture will daytrip to Antarctica, which is only 1,000 Room. Anytime dining options include a allow you to take in the jagged landscape miles south, should that not be in the cards, pizzeria, grill, café and a wide variety of from the privacy of your cabin. For guests enjoy a myriad of outdoor activities in and room service options for breakfast, lunch, looking for a more affordable option, the around the world’s most southernmost city. dinner or snack-time. A number of premi- interior cabins are well appointed and pro- um restaurants are also available to guests, vide the same amenities, minus the view. Crossing the border into Chile, Punta as are anytime gelato and seafood out- Arenas and Puerto Montt are two unique posts for an extra charge. On a 14-day Weather destinations in themselves, respectively journey, Princess holds two formal evenings known for their wildlife and natural beauty. where guests are required to wear jackets With such a dynamic itinerary, you must be Shore excursions in Punta Arenas include in the dining room. Business casual attire is prepared for all weather conditions. For the Magellan Penguins Natural Reserve, if preferred, but not required, the rest of the those living in North America, the seasons you haven’t fulfilled your penguin fix yet, as evenings. Like all cruises, Princess also are reversed in the Southern Hemisphere, well as horseback riding. Puerto Montt is offers an enormous buffet for breakfast, so the ideal time to cruise is from home to the breathtaking Osorno Volcano lunch and dinner. December to March. While it will be sum- and Petrohue Falls. mer throughout your cruise and you will For some, the time at sea is the highlight of feel the heat at the beginning and end, While Valparaíso marks your disembarka- their cruise and Princess ensures to provide some ports-of-call will feel like mid-autumn tion point, before you make your way to the a myriad of entertainment, leisure and with temperatures hovering around 10 lively capital of Santiago, ensure to spend a active options to meet every need. Multiple degrees (50 F). Most notably the weather in day enjoying the colourful costal city and pools and decks allow guests to lounge, Stanley is typically British: cold and rainy, neighbouring Vina Del Mar. This region is while a full sports court and gym provides prepare accordingly. home to some of Chile’s most famous those looking to break a sweat with endless wineries and some of the freshest seafood possibilities. Newer ships also feature a www.princess.com the country has to offer, all of which can be continuous running track. While excited found around the charming city. children are a happy sight on every cruise, for an extra charge, guests can access the

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2020-21 44

Le Fun on Le Boat: Cruising the Rideau Canal

Article and photography by Jennifer Merrick

Are you sure we don’t need a license Most definitely. Though a little apprehen- ager, who was showing us the ropes. And to operate this?” was the first ques- sive, we were mostly excited at the prospect there were actual ropes to learn about as tion that popped into my head when of travelling. Self-contained and in our well as engine thrust controls, anchor, cool- “I set eyes on Le Boat. This luxury 42-foot backyard (which is, of course, the natural- ing systems, water tanks, safety guidelines houseboat, complete with four bedrooms, ly-gifted province of Ontario), houseboat- and navigational maps. four bathrooms, spacious kitchen/living ing was an ideal first excursion. But first we quarters and a large top deck, looked even had to learn how to pilot the Horizon 5. The charts would be essential for us to plan bigger in person than it did online. our travels. Considering how close the “You’re always learning from the moment Rideau Canal is to Toronto (approximately Were we really going to navigate it through you get on until the moment you leave,” three hours), I’m embarrassed to admit that the Rideau Canal by ourselves? said Sandy Crothers, Le Boat’s base man- I had no idea how big this waterway was. only a nautical lesson but a lesson in 45 Canadian history. Fearful of another American attack after the War of 1812, Canada (as part of the British Empire) wanted to deter a possible invasion by cre- ating another supply route. Construction began in 1826, when thousands of labour- ers, under difficult conditions, worked on the canal until its completion in 1832. In was an engineering marvel of its time. Incredibly, much of the original technology is used today; and during our time on the place with good swimming and fishing. Not canal, we watched in fascination as lock- knowing the area, we asked for recom- masters used their muscle power to crank mendations from the Parks Canada staff at open the gates with traditional hand winch- the next lock. Without fail, every lockmaster es, known as crabs. we met was friendly and helpful, and this time was no exception. We were directed to However, at our first lock, we weren’t mar- a fantastic spot on Clear Lake, where we velling at this feat of engineering, but con- spent a relaxing afternoon on the boat, centrating on not damaging the boat or before mooring at Davis Lock, one of the ourselves. The most important step was to most isolated and peaceful lockstations on secure ropes on the lines, so the boat the canal. stayed still, which our teens accomplished like true skippers. We bade farewell to The rhythm of houseboating on the Rideau Sandy, and we were off! Slowly, since Canal had now seduced us. Each locksta- houseboat speed was a maximum of tion had its own character, and each stop 10km/hr, which felt like just the right pace had its own charm. Jones Fall revealed the on a warm, summer’s afternoon. breadth of the canal’s history with its mas- sive stone arch dam (and the kids finally Our first mooring was at Beveridges, which caught their fish!). Newboro was a nature like all the lock stations, were run by Parks hotspot, where we witnessed the grace of a Canada. Almost all had shore power as blue heron and saw turtles lay their eggs in well as facilities like picnic tables, fire pits the ground. and BBQs. While the kids and their dad tried their luck with fishing, I tried out the The pace was slow, but the five days flew Ontario’s only World Heritage Site, this paddle board (a rental-equipment options freshwater highway stretched 202km from by; and cruising back to Smith Falls, we available on Le Boat) for a peaceful ride on lamented about the places we didn’t get a Lake Ontario to Ottawa, connecting a the Lower Rideau Lake. series of rivers and lakes with 52 dams and chance to see. Plans took shape for a future trip on the Rideau Canal. 47 locks. Although it was narrow in some The next morning, we cruised three hours parts, elsewhere it opened into large, deep to West Port and took advantage of the blue, glacially-sculpted lakes with rocky Mmmm, maybe we should get our boater’s bicycles on board to explore the small vil- license… shores surrounded by forests alive with lage. We planned to bike up to the Foley birds, fish and other wildlife. Mountain Conservation Area, but with hot- About Le Boat: A provider of boating vaca- ter-than-normal temps we opted for ice tions in Europe for the last 50 years, its But in order to reach that cottage-country cream and a swim at Sand Lake Beach nirvana, we had to get through the locks. fleets cruise the lakes, rivers and canals of instead. Dinner was a special treat at the UK, France, Germany, Netherlands and Sandy stayed on board for the first one in Scheuermann Winery, where we indulged Smith Falls, where Le Boat was stationed. It Italy. Le Boat started operating on the in their wood-oven pizza and sipped wines Rideau Canal in 2018. was our final test before he handed over with a view of vineyards. the keys. The locks, which functioned as www.leboat.ca watery elevators that raised and lowered The next day we set off, looking for a quiet boats between different levels, were not

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2020-21 46

Switching Masks by Lisa TE Sonne staff pampering you. Since the number of was the honeymoon vessel that exuded 47 am ready to switch a cloth mask for an passengers is small, all activities are optional luxury and was given to Princess Grace underwater face mask and swap “stay at and all-inclusive. Each passenger is outfitted by Aristotle Onassis. Re-living either Ihome” for “play at sea.” Snorkeling is an for the week with a package of fins, mask, trip (above and under water) is enchanting. immersive sensual way to enjoy new places. snorkel, and a shortie wet suit. The snorkeling highlight, though, was when a It doesn’t require special training or certifica- group of Galapagos penguins decided to tion, the equipment is cheap compared to Off the Kona coast of the big island of cavort with us – spinning right up to our face- most sports, and the riches of experience are Hawaii, my fellow snorkelers and I were in masks then darting away. They are the only bountiful. Many cruises offer “shore expedi- two rubber zodiac boats zipping across that known penguins who live naturally north of tions” that take you off-shore -- snorkeling. azure blue of the open Pacific toward the Equator. They are quite small compared Kealakekua Bay, aka Captain Cook Bay, to Emperor Penguins, but they impishly With a good guide, it can be an easy way to named after the famous explorer. It’s a pop- delighted us. “test the waters,” if you aren’t a snorkeling ular tourist destination for vividly diverse fish pro. For anyone who loves water, it can be a and can feel like swimming in open aquari- I kept laughing underwater and breaking the pleasing way to see what’s under some of the ums. We were en route when the zodiac driv- seal of my mask. sea you have been cruising over. ers got very excited and slowed down. Humpback whale spouts were heading our I hope we will all have a chance to swap cloth As I wait for travel to be advisable again, I way! masks for face masks soon. have put my prescription underwater face mask next to my cloth face mask and am A behemoth mother and baby whale swam savoring some happy memories of snorkel- under our boat while a male escort “spy- @ copyright Lisa TE Sonne ing from cruises as images float in. hopped” straight up near us to check us out! Sonne loves covering Underwater Travel, and I handed one of the helpful boat team, has been collecting the best snorkeling expe- Polynesia Buddha, my GoPro for underwater views, riences for a book. Sonne also loves scuba and I snapped away topside with a Cannon diving, is a member of the Explorers Club, When gliding under the tall graceful sails of Rebel. A short video of that adventure can and was the first woman to fly underwater in Windstar in the French Polynesian Islands of also be found at a winged submersible for a National Bora Bora and Tahiti, my husband and I were www.OneMinuteTrip.com/Pacific.php Geographic television piece. enthralled with a “Drift Snorkel”. We were outfitted with masks and snorkels tested so And, yes, the snorkeling at our destination they fit well and given short wet suits, then was wonderful, including some friendly dol- taken on a glorious boat ride over turquoise phins in the bay, but the journey was the Larger cruise ships with less expensive and cobalt waters to a tropical shore of greatest joy. cruises also often offer snorkeling Taha’a. We then hiked under palms and by a opportunities on their excursion menus. mangrove forest to ease into the clear waters. Galapagos Just check carefully with the Activity Director to vet the third party operators, Currents carried us in the shallow warm sea Snorkeling in the Galapagos is so wonderful so you can take home good memories. through a gallery of colorful corals and you want to create new superlatives to schools of fish. The sensations of feeling describe it. The equatorial waters are colder It’s been many years since three gener- ations of my family took an unforget- weightless through wonders and going with than you might think, being off the coast of table Holland America Cruise through currents without effort were both relaxing and Ecuador, but the cooler Humboldt Currents the Northwest Passage of Alaska, but invigorating. We held video cameras, and from Alaska keep you moving. You may see while others chose shore expeditions Victor later put together a short reel of flow- sea turtles flapping languidly by, just a day like dog sledging or glacier hiking, my ing with one group of fish so you can sense after seeing the iconic giant land tortoises. If husband and I donned “dry suits” to how they move through the shimmering light, you are lucky, you will see the primordial- snorkel in the icy waters to see seaweed feed on the corral, and change directions en looking marine iguanas jump in for a swim. and star fish that differed from those of masse. www.OneMinuteTrip.com/Pacific.php You may even witness birds diving for fish — warm waters. It’s also been many years, in the air and then underwater. Most cruises since we signed up last minute to take a Hawaii in the Galapagos visit one or two islands a Carnival cruise down the Mexican day and snorkeling is offered often. Uncruise Adventures has a wonderful island- Riviera for some bargain R& R. Choosing snorkeling for us was a fun hopping cruise that includes Maui, Kauia, I loved touring with EcoVentura, who are sen- Molakai, and Hawaii. Their boutique boat chance to watch the playful sea lions sitive to the environment and use local guides who are as curious about people as we lets you approach the islands from sea, which who brief you well on what you see. The are about them. the ancients and explorers did, but you can Princess Grace yacht of Quasar Expeditions enjoy all the modern comforts with a great Quasar Expeditions Windstar Cruises Lisa TE Sonne

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2020-21 o Iceland Orlando Beverly Hills Melbourne Mallorca SanDiego Crete New York Paris London Tokyo Bali HongKong Manila Singapore Mumbai Chicago Jerusalem Moscow Egypt Bora Bora China Japan Santorini Osaka Los AngelesBarcel Manila SingaporeMumbai Chicago JerusalemMoscow EgyptBora BoraChina JapanSantorini OsakaLos im hnhiTht iir aaLsvgsTrnoBea re aiaSnaoeMma hcg euae ocwEytBr Bora Bora Egypt Moscow Jerusalem Chicago Mumbai Singapore Manila Aries Buenas Toronto vegas Las Maya Riviera Tahiti Shanghai Miami New York Paris London Tokyo BaliRomeThailand MonacoAmsterdamBerlinIbiza MontrealTanzania Hong Kong Hawaii 48 Stay & Play Section Sweet Dreams Around the World www.casacartelaustin.com to createanexperienceguests will treasureforever. Casa Cartelseamlesslyweaves cosmopolitanconveniencewithornateelegance this astonishingproperty. custom1969Cadillacconvertiblefromthe AustinAirportto en inaone-of-a-kind Tlalpazotl, whocreatedthemoving20-foot-tall muralthatgreetsallwhoenterthe unique. MonthsofsearchingforthebestmuralartistinworldledtoCuriot tom piecesfabricatedonbothsidesoftheborder, makingthishomehistoricand Casa CarteliscuratedwithantiquesandartsourcedfromMexico,alongcus- House.” eled in2018byJantzenMatzdorff, thedesignerbestknownfrom“FlipThat American dreamandanAustininstitution.Thepropertyhassincebeenremod- and hiswife,Maria--twoculturaliconsoftenconsideredtheembodimentof luxuryvillawasbuiltin1976byAbrahamKennedy five-bath This five-bedroom, space forvisitorstorelaxandunwindfollowingarigorousdayofexploration. property inthedowntownregion.Itsleeps17comfortablyandoffersaprime stay atCasaCartel. ter waytoexperiencetheauthenticityandeccentrichistoryofAustinthanwitha bucketlist.Andthereisnobet- alive, Austinshouldbeonanyintrepidtraveler’s cumbed tooverpoweringmetropolisvibesandkeepsitsquirkyhometownculture The sloganofTexas’ capitalsaysitall:Keep AustinWeird. Acitythathasn’t suc- Casa CartelisboththelargesthomeinallofEastAustinandrental Luxury Hotels...Grand Resorts...Charming B&B...OpulentVillas...Quaint Resorts...Charming C Luxury Hotels...Grand Casa Cartel,AustinTexas by OliviaBalsinger privacy. Guests can choosetobedriv- spacious outdoorareaswithcomplete bars, a15-persontheaterroom,and with aconfessionalbooth,twowet fountain, adark,candlelitspeakeasy to aheatedpool,roaringindoor Guests atCasaCartelarealsotreated ern spiritualoutlooks. combines Mayanmythologywithmod- property. This breathtakingartwork request. depending uponavailabilityandon can getafridgeandmicrowave, good drawerandcupboardspace.You perfect formetowritemystoriesand pullout couch,alargedeskwhichwas room. Thespaciouslivingroomhasa bath- to theleftfeaturinganice-sized sized entrance,withthemasterbedroom was ideallysuitedforus.Thereisanice one bedroomPlaybillSuite.Thelayout Apple. We stayedinaverycomfortable home wheneverwetraveltotheBig homeawayfrom This isourfamily’s mentary Wi-Fi. able well-litworkdesk,aswellcompli- rooms and25suitesfeaturesacomfort- ingly independenthotels.Eachofthe181 Collection, anevolvingensembleofstrik- of theMarriottchain’s Autograph opened itsdoorsin1902.Today, itispart The AlgonquinHotelTimesSquarefirst www.algonquinhotel.com Times SquareNew York The AlgonquinHotel byCohen Mike Rome Thailand Monaco ona Santiago Washi Rio Madrid Cap Country Inns...Luxary Safari Camps...Ecolodges...Ice...Cave...Treetop... Hotels 49

ture of the region. A genuine connection to this off-the-beaten-track region was owner Rolando Campos’ dream when he opened the lodge four years ago. “I wanted to show people how beautiful it was here,” says Campos. “But I didn’t want the place or peo- ple who visited to be separate from the com- munity.”

And so, the lodge’s restaurant caters as much to locals as to visitors, and highlights typical Costa Rican food, including the tradi- tional breakfast, Gallo Pinto. The soft cheese served with the eggs, rice and beans is par- ticularly good, and I’m told that it’s a spe- ciality of the region and is from the farm up the road. For guests who want to further immerse themselves in the country’s culinary heritage, Chayote Lodge offers a unique opportunity for a hands-on cooking class with a local.

“Welcome to my house,” says Eldida, a proud abuela (grandmother) who leads us to her kitchen. The large brick oven is the Immerse Yourself in the Beauty and Culture of focal point and the homey décor, like the embroidered curtains and table cloth shows Costa Rica at Chayote Lodge the care and love of the owner. Elida by Jennifer Merrick demonstrates how to prepare some Costa Rican staples, including fried plantain, pota- toes, chicken, rice and beans. Our favourite dish though is the Coliflor Envuelto en ith its lush rainforests, Caribbean and even the howling of the monkeys and Huevo (cauliflower in egg batter). Like most and Pacific beaches, towering coyotes. Large blooms cover the grounds; a Costa Rican food, it isn’t particularly spicy, Wmountains and exotic wildlife, small trail leads you into the forest, and a but comforting and tasty. Costa Rica is an exceptionally beautiful des- yoga platform with a built-in water center- tination wherever you go. But Chayote Lodge piece beckons those inclined to meditate. An excursion to the Toro Waterfall is anoth- raises the bar even higher. Located in the er experience the resort offers, and this 270- outskirts of the mountainous central valley, The décor is inspired by the surrounding foot waterfall inside an old volcano crater, less than an hour away from the San Jose nature and the coffee culture of the region, surrounded by rainforest vegetation and Airport, this small resort features twelve bun- especially the tradition Recibidores, coffee bright flowers is truly a sight to behold. galows on the edge of a cloud forest almost receiving stations. Whimsical but tasteful cof- Costa Rica’s ubiquitous beauty is an 5000 feet above sea level. Each spacious fee-themed touches include coffee sticks onslaught of colours, lushness and grand- accommodation has a private patio with a hanging from the ceiling, coffee sacks on the ness. This is especially true at Chayote panoramic view of the valley, volcanic moun- walls and even a hand-crafted coffee table Lodge. tains and on a clear day, the ocean. that’s shaped like a coffee bean. www.chayotelodge.com Perched high above, you can hear the Though you’d be forgiven if you just want to www.visitcostarica.com/en sounds of nature: the high-pitch clattering of stay on the property, activity options encour- the toucans, the bugle-like hum of the insects age guests to experience the authentic cul-

pe Town Beijing Sydney Vancouver Ecuador Malaysia Crete Stockholm Maldives Peru Miami Shanghai Tahiti Riviera Maya Las Vegas Toronto B ngton Jakarta Marrakesh Boston Botswana Copenhagen New Delhi Dubai Sao Paulo Bangkok Auckland Boracay Uganda Banff Guangzhou Casa o Amsterdam Berlin Ibiza Montreal Tanzania Hawaii Rio Madrid Cape Town Beijing Sydney Vancouver Ecuador Malaysia Crete Stockholm M China Japan Santorini Osaka Los Angeles Barcelona Santiago Washington Jakarta Marrakesh Boston Botswana Copenhagen New Delhi Duba Advertorial

Golf

With 45 holes of championship golf, Puntacana Resort & Club is the Caribbean’s premier golf & beach desti- nation. The P.B. Dye designed La Cana Golf Course, consisting of 27 holes across Tortuga, Arrecife and Hacienda, was declared the number one course in the Caribbean by Golf Magazine. Designed by Tom Fazio and set between rocky cliffs, Accommodations coral reefs and the expansive Caribbean Corporate Social Responsibility Sea, the Corales Golf Course features six Puntacana Resort & Club is the oceanfront holes, multiple lines of We believe that in development there Caribbean’s leading resort community on approach and picturesque canyons, mak- needs to be equilibrium among the eco- the eastern shore of the Dominican ing for an exhilarating experience. nomic, environmental and social compo- Republic. Tortuga Bay is member of the nents. Our non-profit Grupo Puntacana Leading Hotels of the World and the only Activities & Spa Foundation serves both natural and social AAA Five Diamond awarded hotel in the resources, while contributing to the sus- Dominican Republic, offering understated Puntacana Resort & Club offers a wide tainable development of our Dominican elegance, privacy and unparalleled per- range of adventures for guests of all ages Republic. These practices have been guid- sonal service. Located at Playa Blanca is including golf, tennis, kite boarding, scuba ing principles of our company, and along The Westin Puntacana Resort & Club, diving, horseback riding, fishing and with vision, hard work and perseverance, guest enjoys all of Westin’s signature numerous excursions by sea, land and air. the key to our success. amenities and Don Queco Cigar Bar. Our The leading spa in the Caribbean, Six Four Points by Sheraton is situated at Senses Spa at Puntacana Resort & Club Punta Cana International airport Puntacana Village, few minutes away from presents a range of innovative packages, Punta Cana International Airport (PUJ). Signature treatments and Asian therapies. Punta Cana International Airport (PUJ), Visit Galerías Puntacana to enjoy an built, owned and operated by Grupo The Estates assortment of shops, restaurants, play- Puntacana, the resort’s developers, and ground, and our spirited nightlife. located within Puntacana Resort & Club, is Become a part of our magnificent para- just minutes away from check-in at any of dise community with the purchase of a Dining our hotels or private homes. Punta Cana vacation home in the elite The Estates at International Airport (PUJ) has direct serv- Puntacana Resort & Club, where Julio Puntacana Resort & Club is home to 6 ice from 98 different cities around the Iglesias, Mikhail Baryshnikov call home. world class eateries with an indigenously world, making Punta Cana the most An exclusive lifestyle of relaxation, excite- delectable cuisine. Tucked inside Tortuga accessible destination in the Caribbean. ment and understated elegance, prospec- Bay, the AAA Four Diamond awarded Our VIP terminals service the needs of tive buyers can choose among elegant Bamboo blends modern cuisine with guests flying in private aircrafts. homes perched above the Caribbean Sea Mediterranean influences. Specializing in or overlooking scrupulously manicured local seafood, The AAA Three Diamond golf courses in Corales, Tortuga, Arrecife, Award La Yola is located at the Marina. At The Caribbean’s Premiere Golf Hacienda, Hacienda del Mar and Marina. La Cana Golf & Beach Club is The Grill, & Beach Resort Community Home and apartments are also available an American style grill offering views of www.puntacana.com at Puntacana Village. the sea. The Westin Puntacana Resort & Club provides a variety or restaurants and bars from Ananí to Brassa Grill. Next door is Playa Blanca, a beachfront tropical restaurant. Our Dine Around Program offers the best sampling of our finest culi- nary experience. All restaurants offer com- plimentary shuttle service within the resort. More dining options are available at Puntacana Village.

52 at the front desk. Taking a farm tour is a good way to experience an understanding of the family’s commitment to sustainable farming and environmentally friendly farm- ing techniques.

On this summer’s afternoon, Culinary Team Leader, Jay Nutt, prepared a memorable gourmet farm-to-table lunch to host my travel writers’ road-trip tour. A graduate of the culinary program at the Northern Alberta Institute of Technology, Jay is the for- mer owner of Nuttshell Nextdoor Cafe in nearby Lakefield and co-author of several cookbooks with his wife, Jennifer MacKenzie, a food writer and recipe devel- oper.

Jay greeted us at the garden with a cool gin cocktail from Peterborough-based Black’s Distillery, blended with rhubarb ginger syrup and lemonade. Lunch is “representative of our farm, gardens and local suppliers,” he says. And he’s certainly spoiled for choice with veggies from the garden the likes of squash, swiss chard, radishes, and aspara- gus in the spring. “We plan on drying our herbs later this summer and making relishes Find your farm-to-lakefront cottage getaway at Elmhirst’s Resort and preserves with surplus vegetables.” by Cherie DeLory We were treated to a colourful medley of grilled vegetables, wild rice salad, puff pas- try strudel of Elmhirst’s Own duck leg with now someone with a cottage? Now A private landing strip is accessible in the caramelized onions, a vegetarian friendly you do. Escape to Elmhirst’s Resort nearby field for private aerial sightseeing strudel with southwestern black bean and on Rice Lake in the Kawarthas and tours. There’s horse-back riding, and to K sweet potato, house-smoked Linwood Acres you’ll receive a warm, family style welcome. really get into the spirit of the cowboy way, rainbow trout with pickled onions and This four-seasons cottage resort in Keene, you can partake in a hearty, country “cow- horseradish mayo, and Elmhirst's Own Ontario, a quick 20-minute drive from boy breakfast” in the pasture. Peterborough and only 90 minutes from grilled and chilled rib-eye steak. Toronto, has been a family affair for over a An intimate, rustic wine cellar is tightly I could barely remove myself from the table century. stocked with local Ontario wines for tastings to head outside for Kawartha Dairy ice and corporate events, and you can order cream sundaes topped with homemade Elmhirst’s Resort offers a unique farm-to- fresh vegetables from the garden and meat giant chocolate-coated peanut butter balls, table experience in a hybrid farm and lake- from the farm to personally grill at your cot- whipped cream, and chocolate and caramel front cottage setting. Cottages overlook Rice tage. Dine in the Hearthside Dining room, sauce. However, we were on a strict sched- Lake, each with a private balcony, barbecue with calming views of Rice Lake and the ule. No time to linger and wallow in the and dock. A recent round of renovations soothing crackling sounds from the wood pleasures of the moment. I’ll leave that for included having the wood burning fireplaces burning stone fireplace, or settle in at the next time. Perhaps a Thanksgiving feast set replaced with electric. There’s an indoor and Wild Blue Yonder Pub & Patio for a trip down amidst the fall foliage. outdoor pool and fitness centre, and a full- nostalgia lane where family aviation service spa with DoTERRA essential oils. You mementos are on display. Elmhirst’s Own https://elmhirst.ca/ can even sneak in a round of golf at the 18- Angus Beef is bred and raised on the farm, course Bellmere Winds Golf Course next as are turkeys, Pekin ducks and chickens. door. Fresh eggs and honey are available for sale

tayCanadian & World Play Traveller Winter Stay 2020-21 & Play Stay & Play Stay & Play 53

to indulge in a true taste of our surroundings, Mitake Sanso: A Shrine Stay in Okutama, Tokyo, Japan and to appreciate the value of a stay at Mitake Sanso. Article and photography by Steve Gillick After a great night’s sleep on our futons, cocooned in plush comforters, we followed kutama is the nature hub of Tokyo After a late afternoon check-in to a very large the steep path to Musashi Mitake Shrine. On Prefecture, lying about two hours Japanese-style tatami room, the first order of a crisp autumn morning, the gorgeous sun- Owest of central Tokyo. The area is business was to put on the complimentary rise over an amazing vista of mountains, ideal for those who want to get away from the yukata (robe) and jacket and head down to showcased the beautiful red and gold shrine. hustle and bustle of Japan’s largest city and the public bath for a good, hot soak. Our 7:00 a.m. pre-arranged meeting with take advantage of the fresh-air opportunities Afterward, in complete relaxation mode we the Shrine priest was a warm, humorous and available in Chichibu-Tama-Kai National enjoyed a dinner that was nothing short of a educational experience as he explained Park: walking trails, forests, waterfalls, sus- culinary celebration of the local, seasonal (through translation) some of the history and pension bridges, power spots, small towns, foods for which Okutama is famous. The legends of the area. temples, shrines and mountains. incredible array of colorful, delicious dishes began with chestnut covered in bright green After blessings and prayers we headed back Mt. Mitake (pronounced mee-tah-kay) stands tea noodles, with yuzu (a citrus fruit) and to Mitake Sanso for an incredibly tasty tradi- as an adventure all its own, and a great way plump, boiled peanuts. This was followed by tional Japanese breakfast, before checking for visitors to envelope themselves in the konnyaku (a taro-like vegetable), marinated out and descending the mountain. experience is to stay at a shukubo, or pilgrim- persimmon salad, crunchy fresh pickles, a age accommodation, on the mountain. bowl of stewed pumpkin with burdock and This was a memorable adventure, but made tofu, a tureen of red pepper, avocado, onion, even more meaningful with a stay at Mitake Mt. Mitake is accessible by hiking a steep scallop and enoki mushrooms, and then a Sanso and enjoying Okutama hospitality and path, or more comfortably, by taking the creamy vegetable au gratin. The main dish truly amazing food. Plans for a return visit are cable car that arrives at the 831 meter (2726 consisted of fresh caught river fish (ayu) gar- in the works! feet) level in about 6 minutes. From the cable nished with rock salt and served with a side car station it’s a short walk along a path and dish of tempura mushrooms, persimmon and https://mitakesansou.com/ then up, up, up part of the mountain, to shrimp. The final ‘end-of-the-meal’ dishes Mitake Sanso, the traditional Inn where we included wasabi rice, sumashi jiru (a kelp- spent the night. based soup) and grapes. It was a perfect way

Stay & Play Stay & Play Stay & PlayCanadian World Stay Traveller Winter &2020-21 Pl

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Fun for Families in Saguenay-Lac-Saint-Jean, Quebec Article and photography by Jennifer Merrick

ith so many places to see in the fjords? And it’s a beauty with its deep glacial First, we hiked a mile through the forest with world and in Canada, I’m not nat- waters stretching from Saint Fulgence to interpretive stops along the way to learn Wurally inclined to return to places Tadoussac at the north of the St. Lawrence about the unique geology of the area (and eat I’ve already visited. But there are exceptions. River. Our family has been fortunate to have blueberries). Once we reached the open Destinations whose sense of place and beau- had some wonderful adventures in this gor- mine, we put on hard hats and gloves, and ty touch my heart and beckon me to return. geous region over the years. Here were some the search began. Genevieve advised us to Saguenay-Lac-Saint Jean in Quebec is one of of our faves: keep our eyes peeled for pink quartz. Rare those special places. and valuable, this is the only mine in Canada Rockhounding for crystals at Cristal du Lac: and one of seven in the world where it exists. Located 200 kilometres north of Quebec City, “Even after 30 years, I never know what I’m Finding these special treasures was a thrill, the region is known for its forest and water- going to find,” said Genevieve Chretien-Belly, and we all left happy with our own little bags ways, most notably Lac Saint Jean and the an owner of this quartz mining site. It was a of treasure. Saguenay Fjord. Who knew Quebec had treasure hunt and a true family adventure. Photo:Charles-David Robitaille Hiking in Parc national du Fjord-du- how large this fairy hole was. Exploring 57 Saguenay: This 320 km² reserve showcased the cave was more than enough adven- nature at her best with 650-ft-high cliffs, bore- ture for me, but my daughter craved al forest and the fjord itself. Almost 100 kms more thrills and so whizzed over the canyon of hiking trails offered challenging treks like on a zipline course offered at the park. My climbing to Cap Eternité, as well as easy heart stopped just watching her and I was jaunts like the 3-km hike to the lookout over glad I chose the more peaceful option of a Baie Sainte Marguerite. This was a great spot stroll along the boardwalk with gorgeous to see the beluga whales that swim and play views of rivers and waterfalls. in this bay during the summer months. Camping fun for families at Villages Vacances Sleeping in a ghost town at Val-Jalbert Petit Saguenay: A summer camp for families is Historical Village: One of the best-preserved the best way to describe this property that had ghost towns in Canada, this pulp-mill compa- 37 cabins on a hilltop overlooking the fjord. ny town was abandoned at the end of the Here, both kids and parents get their own ani- 1920s, leaving behind wooden homes, a mateurs (counsellors) who led activities that school, general store, the mill itself, and we could participate in together or apart. So, according to some, a few ghostly residents. for example, while the parents could go on a We didn’t encounter any other-worldly folks hike with a reward of wine and cheese at the when we spent the night in one of the restored end, their kids could be playing organized homes, but we did get a glimpse of life in games at the beach or doing arts and crafts. another era. We learned about a time when Food (cafeteria style) and activities were strict nuns ruled the school, eight-children included in the price, making it a great deal Photo: Yves Ouellet families were the norm, and the indoor wash- for families. I was told that about 10% of rooms and electricity the village homes had guests were English-speaking families looking were considered the ultimate in in modern liv- for immersion opportunities. With skits, bon- ing. The focal point of the town is fire ghost stories en francais, it’s a much more Ouiatchouan Falls, which at 260 feet is high- fun way to learn French than in the classroom. er than Niagara Falls. The name means white, boiling water in Innu, and its powerful Biking le Velo du Bluet: The Blueberry Trail is cascades can be viewed from a glass platform a 256-km-path that circles the beautiful Lac lookout or just as you wander through the vil- Saint-Jean, taking cyclists through a variety of lage itself. landscapes. We biked a small portion, about 20K, of this trail with Equinox Adventures. You Digging for Fjord creatures at the Musée du wouldn’t think it would take long to bike that Fjord: Besides its natural beauty, the glacial distance, but it did -- simply because we had river was home to a unique eco-system com- to stop so many times. Why? Blueberries, of prised of both salt and fresh water species. course. The trail was true to its name and Armed with shovels and wearing rubber these small, flavourful berries the region is boots, we learned firsthand about the fjord’s famous for were so much tastier that the ones inhabitants on the Life between Land and Sea we buy at the supermarket. As we had no activity. We were thrilled to find clams, shrimp containers, the kids filled their water bottles and other organisms with the help of our and tummies with them. We returned to our Sleeping in a treehouse at Cap Jaseux Park: guides. Back inside, we checked out the condo accommodation at the Centre de We loved our treehouse adventure on this aquariums and exhibitions. The highlight was Villégiature Dam-en-Terre with blue-stained 200-hectare property that also offered sus- the touch pool, where we held a slimy sea lips, talking about how much we’d love to pended spheres, log cabins and tenting. Our cucumber, a star fish and other creatures of come back and cycle the complete route. wooden house was perched high among the the fjord. evergreen boughs and looked out at the There are some places you just have to return Saguenay Fjord. Activity options included aer- Splunking at Parc Caverne du Trou de la Fee: to. ial rope courses, hiking, swimming and sea These deep granite caves were discovered by kayaking. We chose the guided kayaking chance in 1821, when workers saw an eagle https://tourisme.saguenay.ca/en excursion and paddled onto the fjord at sun- disappear into the cliffs and went looking for set. its nest. It was a tight squeeze in some spots; but once we got through, it was surprizing

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2020-21 58

Timeless Toronto – The Jewel in Ontario’s Crown

by Anne-Marie Macloughlin

cooling breeze wafts gently from a From the Mohawk word “Tkaronto - Where fare providing options for the most adventur- lake of shining water as the geese dip there are trees standing in the water” (a refer- ous of palates. Many stay open later than tra- Atheir heads in search of a tasty ence to an indigenous fishing practice using ditional restaurants which make them the per- morsel; sailboats bob languidly as a passen- wooden poles), the marketing organization fect destination after a late movie or night on ger ferry takes happy day-trippers to a cluster for the city with the futuristic skyline estimates the town. If it’s dim sum you crave, Swatow of quiet islands as they seek some quiet beach 28 million people visited Toronto in 2019, Restaurant at 309 Spadina Avenue time or a lively game of Frisbee. To the north spending a record $6.7 billion — $200 mil- (http://www.swatowtoronto.com) is a a gleaming spire winks in the sunlight, a call lion more than in 2018 (cbc.ca). Biased I may favourite with the locals; be prepared for a to all who seek culture, adventure and an be but the stats makes sense – as a year lineup at weekend brunch times (and don’t unforgettable experience. This is Toronto, the round destination Toronto is hard to top with forget to try the shrimp har gow:) city by the lake and my adopted home since a staggering amount of activities suited to all the ‘90s. tastes and budgets.

Food and Drink

Known for its multicultural neighbourhoods, Toronto serves up a smorgasbord of culinary treats for carnivores, vegans and flexitarians alike. On Spadina Avenue between College Street to the North and Queen Street West to the South, the city boasts one of North America’s largest Chinatown districts. Vietnamese, Thai and Korean restaurants complement the more traditional Chinese imported and domestic beer including draft favourite being the Toronto Beltline 59 microbrews. Note: they don’t skimp on their Trail. A former railway line, the Beltline mixed drinks either and pricing is fair. Certain is split into three sections, the most nights they have a DJ spinning in back so tranquil of which is the Ravine Beltline Trail check with venue for schedule. south of Mount Pleasant Cemetery. Look out for woodpeckers, chipmunks and of course Culture & Tourism the ubiquitous squirrel as you take time out from the bustle of the city Culture vultures are drawn to Toronto for its (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beltline_Trail). lively and eclectic theatre scene. Hosting The Budding photographers and history buffs will National Ballet of Canada enjoy the ancient trees and beautiful land- (national.ballet.ca) and The Canadian scaped gardens in the cemetery which has Opera Company (coc.ca), visitors can be served Toronto since 1876 (mountpleasant- assured of world-class entertainment and group.com). award-winning productions to rival Broadway. Home to The Toronto Fringe Feel like some urban hiking? Then head Festival (https://fringetoronto.com/) theatre downtown to the vibrant and colourful Yonge buffs gather each July to witness the best in & Dundas intersection and the CF Toronto diverse and experimental theatre at a low Eaton Centre, Toronto’s most popular tourist cost. With venues ranging from University attraction and North America’s busiest mall Campus theatres and warehouse spaces, The according to a study by the Retail Council of Fringe is a wonderful opportunity to support Canada in 2017. One of my favourite spots the arts without breaking the bank. to stroll around, the mall provides a sanctu-

Photos: Destination Toronto ary from the searing heat of summer and A visit to Toronto wouldn’t be complete with- brain-freezing temperatures of winter with out a trip to the top of the city, courtesy of the many food and drink options to make a day CN Tower (cntower.ca). The pride of Toronto, of it! Bookended by Saks Fifth Avenue in the the famous needle stands tall at 1,815ft5in south and Nordstrom in the North, demand- and in 1995 was classified as one of the ing shoppers won’t be disappointed. seven wonders of the modern world. The 360 Restaurant specializes in Canadian cuisine As North American cities go, Toronto is hard with arguably the best view in the city, revolv- to beat. The mix of cultures, activities and ing once every 72 minutes. After a delicious accessibility provide a stimulating environ- meal, test your mettle as you walk on the ment for all tastes, the old rubbing shoulders glass floor (scarier than you’d think!) or for with the new and haute couture happily coex- the real adrenaline junkie, take a walk on the isting with hipster edginess. We can experi- wild side at the tower’s Edgewalk experience ence Greek tradition with The Taste of The Just west of Spadina lies Kensington Market, which involves a relaxing hands free walk Danforth every summer and celebrate the a favourite destination for the city’s budget OUTSIDE the tower - while harnessed secure- Chinese New year in winter. A big exhibition conscious fashionistas. When you need a ly of course. At $195 it’s not cheap but oh, destination, we look forward to The break from sourcing that perfect vintage what a view! Canadian National Exhibition for 2 weeks in piece The Moonbeam Coffee Company at 30 August and The Royal Winter Fair at the end St. Andrew Street (moonbeamcoffee.com) is Nature – Trails and the Waterfront of November. Toronto winters can be undeni- a gem of a pit stop with front and back patio ably harsh with summer temperatures in the for warmer days and cozy interior when the One of the defining characteristics of Toronto 100s but don’t let this deter you. The city has winter chill hits. Roasting their own fair trade is its abundance of green space and proxim- adapted to both extremes and with a stun- beans onsite adds to the ambience and the ity to beautiful Lake Ontario. With year round ningly beautiful fall beloved by leaf peepers, option to take a little Moonbeam home with trails and outdoor recreational options, you anytime is the right time to visit. See you you. can ice skate in winter by the frozen wonder- soon. land of Lake O or take a summertime cycle After a hard day’s sightseeing how better to along one of the city’s many trails. The www.seetorontonow.com take off a load than at a friendly watering Martin Goodman trail is a popular destina- hole? On 223 Augusta Avenue lies The tion for cyclists, joggers and rollerbladers, 22 Embassy (416- 591-1132) with a tiny patio, km from the Beaches in the east end to retro vinyl booths and exposed brick walls. Humber Bay in the west and part of The Check the blackboard for their selection of Great Lakes Waterfront Trail. No bike? No problem! Toronto Bike Share (https://bike- sharetoronto.com/) has stations all over the city with many dotted along Queen’s Quay. At $15 for a 72 hour access pass it’s a fit and fun way to explore the city while being an eco conscious traveler. Unsure about riding an unfamiliar machine? Fear not, the bikes are maintained regularly by the company and provide a smooth and comfortable ride.

If it’s peace and quiet you seek, there are many ravine and forest trails to get lost in, my

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2020-21 60

Magnificent Tunisia Article and photography by Michael Morcos regarding the text of the Appian that has 61 n the less travelled part of the been recorded by historians as well as Mediterranean lies sometimes archaeologists. forgotten and sometimes over- O Tunis Medina looked magnificent Tunisia. On this part of my second trip I would travel north and Tunis Medina is the commercialized and west to straddle the coast. This would prove administrative trading hub of the city. Close to be in great contrast to the dry deserts to the Mediterranean Sea and Lake Tunis, and the beautiful landscapes to the south. this place has three fractions - the old city Both are compelling and if I had to choose or Median, the French Quarter and lastly between a trip to the north or south, I would the northern and the southern parts of the object by picking a trip to visit both. As in capital. Tunis Medina is segmented among my last visit, we would land in the capital the central core, which still abides by the region of Tunis. From here, we would enjoy era of its groundwork, which is the 8th cen- a relaxing day on the sandy beaches and a tury. rejuvenating Thalassic Therapy message before hitting the road for six days of explo- This outstanding layout of buildings has ration. been urbanized from a small defrayal which is known as Oppidum tunicense, La Palais Du Baron revealed by Pliny the Elder. The design was completed during the 13th century under This palace boast an Arabic design which the rule of the Hafsid dynasty. was built in the year 1912 A.D. The renowned La Palais Du Baron was created The way the doors of the Tunis Medina are by French and German artist Baron decorated along with the engravings of the Rodolphe d'Erlanger. The opulent rooms of gems and jewels is a symbol of the socio- this Arabic-Andalusian is comprised of logical importance of the historical times beautiful ornaments, jewels and furnishings along with the geometric architectural style inside the massive interior. I found out that of art work. Some of the imagery is hom- presently the palace holds the stamp of the age to figures and events such as the Mediterranean Music Centre where numer- Goddess of Fertility, St Augustine of Hippo ous concerts are lined up year-round. and the Ottoman Empire in Turkey.

Carthage Port Punique Musee De Bardo

I enjoyed this charming area, also known Musee De Bardo, which is one of the as the "Sea of Empires." Cartage Port renowned museums of Tunisia, was origi- Punique has facilities that have been in nally a palace of the Hafsid dynasty during service since the pre historic times of the their rule in the 13th century. Musee de ancient emperors rule in Tunisia. Bardo is located in the outer suburbs of Comprising of the commercialized and mil- Tunis. This astonishing museum has a itary ports, Cartage Port Punique is posi- colossal collection of Roman Mosaics and tioned along high walls. The purpose of antiquities from ancient Greece and these walls was to have a resourceful mili- Tunisia. tary port where maximum number of boats On the road and meeting the locals could be hidden in the harbour. Travelling through Tunisia is as beautiful as One highlight of Cartage port Punique is one can imagine. I was able to observe the that this area was first battle ground of the daily lifestyle of the residents along the sea- first Punic war. As a UNESCO World side. Tunisian agriculture and farms have Heritage Site and hallmarked territory in become a hallmark of the local landscape. Tunisia, it gives notice to this city due to its I indulged in a road trip on the curvy roads rich history related to the 11th century, see following page

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2020-21 62 of Tunisia which was an enthralling experi- Uqba is located here, which is known as the ence, especially when I was able to stop and fourth pillar of Islam. The name of this city is have a chat with friendly farmers. derived from the word "Carvan," which means a "Resting Place". The town of Tabarka This great Muslim pilgrimage site is has dis- My next stopover was Tabarka. I loved this tinctive features. In the northwest turn of the seaside atmosphere of the place, including yard is a little space with a historical grave its amazing waters which are surreal and plus a burial stone dressed up with green, crystal clear. Two great things to see are the red and white accents. However, if you are gorgeous Mediterranean corals that that not Muslim, you can only admire this space surround the area and an exquisite Genoese from the outside. castle, framed by the Khroumerie Mountains enriching the spectacular environment. This Colisee El Jem is the perfect playground for sightseers, scuba divers and fans of spending days at The auditorium at El Djem was made by the the sandy beach in the sunshine. Romans under the rule of emperor Gordian in Thysdrus in the year 238 AD. The key pur- Bulla Regia pose to use this space for gladiator shows as well as the fierce chariot races. I found this Located in the North Western side of the city monument to be one of the most impressive of Tunisia, Bulla Regia is an archaeological in Tunisia, especially since it looks particu- site with the Bardo Museum the city of larly stunning at sunset. Jendouba, dating back to the Hadrianic era. The lovely shades of colours is prevalent in Port El Kantaoui the dome shaped architecture. Positioned at the north of the Sousse of the Each subversive dwellings corresponds to Central part of Tunisia, Port El Kantaoui was the three palaces at the northern end, which built in 1979 as a large tourist attraction. At can be explored by guided tour. The baths, this popular spot, I had a wonderful time hit- the forum and the theatre the key places to ting the links. The 36 hole PGA approved visit at the archaeological site of Bulla Regia. course also has options nearby for paraglid- ing, yachting and water skiing. Taking a Dougga walk down the cobblestone streets here is My visit to the mesmerizing theatre of another pleasant activity to try. archaeology Dougga was impressive and Medina and Ribat De Sousse something I've always wanted to view. This archaeological site has been named a Sousse, located in the heart of Tunisia, is a UNESCO site in the 1990s, for its history trade hub for processed food, textiles, trans- dating to ancient Roman days. port equipment and olive oil, to name a few. The University De Sousse, located in the The overall town of Dougga is popular for its area, has a rich Roman and Vandal back- Islamic influence. For example, the estab- ground and is worth a visit. The Ribat today lished Mosque of Sidi Sahbi, on the eastern stands as a fort as well as a religious fortifi- side of the capital, was built during the 14th cation. century. I reached a level of contentment that is Kairouan always wonderful to experience when tak- Known as the land of pastries, Kairouan ing trips abroad, as this destination has a offers mouth-watering baked goods like that fulfilling amount of memorable things to of the Makraoudh and Zelbia, usually made see and do that embody a rich cultural and with sugar and various nuts, like pistachios. historical background famous in this part of This place is a hallmark of Tunisia, some- the world. times called the "Cultural Capital of Islam" www.discovertunisia.com and is also a UNESCO site. The mosque of

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2020-21