Do not throw on the public domain. Neighbourhood Neighbourhood Design Design What inspires? Patent pending Neighbourhood Life Neighbourhood Culture Life Sci fi comixSci Formula for fame + Volume 03 03 —Issue Global Style Global The + The Style Music Insanelytalented Special 295X420_IDOLE ANG.indd1

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lll#\^dg\^dVgbVc^WZVjin#Xdb 14/10/09 9:17:26 4 The editor's letter

Publisher Nicholas Lewis

Editor-in-chief Hettie Judah

Design facetofacedesign + pleaseletmedesign

Writers Marcus Barnes We’ve always had a kind of low-hype, anti celebrity thing going on with The Word – Sabine Clappaert we’ve preferred to give priority to the quality of the contributions, instead of relying Alex Deforce on big names or buzz. We like to feel that we tread our own path, picking up on the Hettie Judah stuff that we find interesting, rather than following trends or responding to publicity Nicholas Lewis campaigns. Breakthrough for us was always going to be a difficult theme – there are Timothy Palma plenty of other magazines out there panting to tell you about the next big things and Tania Mara Rabesandratana the hot breakthrough artist, but that’s not really what we’re about – it seemed logical Karen Rubins to take a step back and ask what breakthrough meant outside the rich oxygen of the Sarah Thorowgood media world. Yves Van Kerkhove Randa Wazen We tracked down people who have set out to change lives in their own, discreet ways through faith, science, justice and education. We looked at how yesterday’s break- Photography/Illustration through inventions become tomorrow’s junk, examine the hype machine and ask Ulrike Biets whether it’s better to be a glorious, superficial flash-in-the-pan than cling onto fame Sébastien Bonin for all you’re worth? Benoit Bannisse Marcel Ceuppens It’s not all filthy cynicism, mind you: we’ve embraced some breakthrough fashion Sarah Eechaut talent in our explosive style story, and spoken with some of Europe’s most independ- Bertus Gerssen ent-minded designers about where they find their inspiration. We also welcome a Merel’t Hart four-page comic strip – Headnet - onto our pages from one of the UK's breakthrough La Villa Hermosa pencils. KKGB Emanuele Marcuccio On a personal note – after working on The Word since its inception, this is the Bruce Tsai moment when I say goodbye. It’s been a wild ride, I’m really proud of what we’ve all Guy Van Laere achieved, and have really enjoyed working with so many talented people and watch- Virassamy ing their style develop on our pages over the years. Charlotte May Wales

Interns Angélique Berhault Timothy Palma (editorial) Melika Ngombe (photography) Hettie Judah

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Visit thewordmagazine.be/ the-magazine for full subscription information. On this cover For syndication The next big thing Like what you read ? Our content is available Model Bruno Mintona for purchase. Go online at jampublishing.be or call + 32 (0) 2 374 24 95

for more information. © KKGB

The Word is published five times a year by JamPublishing, 107 Rue Général Henry Straat 1040 Brussels Belgium. Reproduction, in whole or in part, without prior permission is strictly prohibited. All information is correct up to the time of going to press. The publishers cannot be held liable for any changes in this respect after this date. STEENHOUWERSVEST 61 & 65, 2000 ANTWERP RUE ANTOINE DANSAERTSTRAAT 42, 1000 BRUSSELS ALDESTRAAT 59, 3500 HASSELT 6 The contents

* * * Life Design

01 The cover 28 The institution 76 The moment The Breakthrough issue 02 A word from our advertisers Giorgio Armani 04 The editor’s letter Volume 3 – n° 03 05 A word from our advertisers Filippa K 06 The contents On our corner Eureka! You’re looking at it 07 A word from our advertisers 30 The Word on Burberry Sport * 08 The contributors Culture It’s a Word’s world 09 A word from our advertisers 80 The shelf Swatch The broken book club 82 The pencil Headnet * Seeing the light Neighbourhood 86 The eye

10 The diary * Style

34 The other Word on Love will tear us apart 38 The showstoppers Absolutely smashing We made your world 42 The profile The moodboard Hey pretty baby, 93 A word from our advertisers going to make you a star The Word Magazine 11 The diary 47 A word from our advertisers Belgium Balthazar 13 A word from our advertisers 48 The fashion Word * Levis 14 The diary Belgium + United Kingdom 94 The stockist 15 The diary And others we love United Kingdom 95 A word from our advertisers 16 The diary Wiels Holland + France 96 The advertisers 17 A word from our advertisers There's a riot going on Round up Symfonieorkest Vlaanderen 58 A word from our advertisers 18 The diary Café d’Egmont 98 Before we leave you Gigs to catch & Give aways 21 A word from our advertisers * 99 A word from our advertisers Brussels Philharmonic The Music Special Ristorante Bocconi 100 A word from our advertisers 20 The papers 59 The cover Delvaux The Music Special 60 The music papers Nü-Post-... + Beautiful losers 61 The music papers Bands and brands 62 The music papers Mr Incongruity socks it to us The Breakthrough papers 63 The music papers To conduct and entertain 25 A word from our advertisers 64 The bandwave Maasmechelen Village The last few outlaws ride the waves 26 The exhibition 70 The context Skin, the exhibition Bad vibrations 72 The special showstoppers At the back of the bus bby_sport_adv_1.41.indd 1 19/10/09 18:38:55 8 The contributors

It’s a Word’s world

KKGB Photographer

Kiss Kiss Gang Bang may sound like the lost porn tape of Sergio Leone, but it’s actually a local collective of international creative dudes and gals that just like to meet together around a few Belgian beers and build some wild editorial shoots. For this issue they mined the archetypes of popular culture and created an anatomy of hype for our break- through fame feature. kisskissgangbang.tumblr.com

Pages n° 42 — 46 Tania Mara Rabesandratana Writer Charlotte May Wales This Paris-born polyglot globetrotter got in Photographer touch with us just as we started brainstorming for content. Did we want some science stories Charlotte discovered the world of publish- for our breakthrough issue? Damn right we ing whilst studying fine art at Central Saint did. We talked Large Hadron Colliders, Martins where she produced her own maga- the human genome project and astronomi- zine. On graduating two years ago Charlotte cal observatories and ended up with pieces dove head first in the world of photography. on lightspeed travel and grid computing. To Since then has been assisting and producing infinity and beyond! for some of London’s top photographers and shooting for The Word in her (very limited) Page n° 21 free time. For this issue she’s tracked down some of London’s best pirate radio DJs. charlottemaywales.co.uk

Pages n° 22, 65 Bertus Gerssen Photographer

Bertus Gerssen won us over with the honest humanity and painterly composition of Erratum his investigative photography. He recently Two minor errors inserted them- completed a series on rural squatters in the selves in our March-April edition Netherlands, and a social portrait of The which we’d like to rectify. The illus- Hague. When we needed someone to track tration on page 24 was wrongfully down the last pirate radio stations broadcast- credited to Virassamy. It should ing in The Netherlands, he seemed a perfect have been credited to Val Gallardo. choice. The name Patrice Thuilier was mis- bertusgerssen.nl spelled on page 68. An all-impor- tant ‘h’ was missing. We apologise Pages n° 64 — 69 for any inconvenience caused.

10 The moodboard Events A r t s Music

Some of the items on the board this month: an inside joke t-shirt our interns made (and which leaves us puzzled), the flyer to the French Horn Rebellion gig we went to (David and Robert are lovely, read about them on thewordmagazine.be), some archive imagery we stumbled upon of civil unrest in the UK and Japan, the flyer to our photography exhibition, the cover of Dazed and Confused’s April edition featuring the XX (2009's breakthrough band photographed by breakthrough talent and one-time Word contributor, Pierre Debusschere), some broken egg shells, a Bel- gian flag (are the powers that be going to break through the political deadlock, or break the country up once and for all?) and a thinly-veiled reference to an incredible recent addition to the family. Neighbourhood 11

Belgium ( 01 10 )

01. Place control 03. Board games 01. Belgian artist Jan Vercruysse’s Professional skateboarder Ed work is serious-minded, high-browed stuff. Templeton stays busy. He takes photographs, Although minimal in its resulting nature, the paints, draws and sculpts, although his skate- very essence of his body of work is dosed in boarding passion really is what fuels his art. complex contemplation. One to see spaces For this mid-career retrospective, Templeton where others would draw blanks, Vercruysse’s brings his usual language of cacophonic installations – in this most recent series, pared imagery – paintings paired to photographs,

down piles of neatly arranged wine crates, with anecdotes contextualising the lot on a © Jan Vercruysse pallets and billiard cues – evoke places of backdrop of paint dribbles – together with memory. Think timid concentrates of meaning, his customary dose of documentary insight. 02. all painted in white and green bronze. Intense Don’t expect the mere autobiographical, yet quietly so, a strong, if not slightly stern, my-life-is-so-great pretentious ramblings discourse runs throughout his oeuvre, proving though. Templeton’s work goes beyond that, that Vercruysse doesn’t make art simply for with clear social and societal connotations art’s sake. underpinning it.

Jan Vercruysse Ed Templeton – The cemetery of reason  From 5th June to 17th July 2010  Until 13th June 2010 ☞ Xavier Hufkens, Brussels ☞ Smak, Ghent  xavierhufkens.com  smak.be © Tony Frank© Tony * 04. Frank photography The festival In the space of three years, 03. to camp out at Belgian documentary photographer Cedric Gerbehaye visited the Democratic Republic Les Ardentes of Congo seven times, spending most of it in @ Liege/Luik, from 8th until 11th July 2010 the country’s eastern province. The scene of – Playing the major-indie balance to its the most heinous crimes against humanity advantage, Les Ardentes brings a roster of following the region’s most damaging civil artists not unlike our current in-house playlist: war (in which four million Congolese died Pavement, Wave Machines, Sharon Jones and and one million were displaced), Gerbehaye’s Midnight Juggerknauts to name but a few. most recent series shines some (much-needed)  lesardentes.be light on the desolate and destitute region, the aim being to bring its inhabitants’ often over- looked plight to the fore. Photography from 02. Looks like the work the heart, Gerbehaye foregoes any sugar- of a master coating of his imagery, with all the pain that it When you’re a gallery owner, you implies. can allow yourself certain indulgences. In the case of Roger Szmulewicz, owner of Antwerp’s Cédric Gerbehaye – Congo in limbo Fifty One gallery which celebrates its 10th  From 10th June to 8th August 2010 anniversary this year, that means putting on ☞ Botanique, Brussels a show dedicated to Serge Gainsbourg. Known  botanique.be

for his cinematographic inclinations (he direct- © Ed Templeton ed all of four movies), Gainsbourg also had somewhat of a photographic instinct, giving as * 04. much attention to composition and focal lenses The show in his movies as he did to casting decisions. you can’t miss With this (very personal) exhibition, Fifty One draws on the works of Helmut Newton, Patrick Guns ‘Wassup Strangers’ William Klein and Patrick de Spiegelaere to @ Elaine Levy Project (Brussels), until 5th reveal a hidden side to Gainsbourg’s artistic June 2010 – Belgian artists Patrick Guns’ art, aspirations. visual and expressive, combines sensitivities for typeface and composition to reveal a body Fifty One celebrates 10 years of work which comes from the guts. with Serge Gainsbourg (1928 – 1991)  elainelevyproject.com  From 5th June to 31st July 2010 ☞ Fifty One Fine Art Photography, Antwerp  gallery51.com © Cédric Gerbehaye 12 The diary

05. 05. Objects as images 07. To whom it may concern Belgian sculptor and installa- Auguste Orts is a production and tion artist Valérie Mannaerts seems to use art distribution platform made up of four artists as a means to an end, not as an end in itself. (Herman Asselberghs, Sven Augustijnen, Her sculptures are the product of intense Manon de Boer and Anouk Declercq) pri- meditation on materiality and the autonomy marily active in the fields of film and video. of forms. Steeped in this minute and complex Although production and logistics is what approach, she creates a world of contrasting brought the band of four together, they quickly tendencies, congregating them into fragile found themselves sharing sensitivities within new shapes and intriguing constellations. the broader context of audiovisual produc- Hinting at something very basic, nearly tions, leading to many collaborations. One of unspoken of, Mannaerts’ work exists on the which, the premise of this first solo show at fringes, pleasantly primitive yet evocative M HKA, is loosely based on the theme of dia- of someone who has something to say. This logue, taking as starting point letters the artists exhibition marks the artist’s largest solo show wrote to each other discussing their practice. to date. Auguste Orts: Correspondances Valérie Mannaerts – Blood flow  Until 22nd August 2010  Until 11th July 2010 ☞ M HKA, Antwerp ☞ Extracity, Antwerp  muhka.be  extracity.org © Valérie Mannaerts * 06. 06. Missing link The festival The cult of personality is well- to camp out at entrenched in western civilization. Indeed, even the tyrants and villains of the past Lokerse Feesten (Napoleon, Julius Cesar) are given centre- @ Ghent, from 30th July to 8th August 2010 stage on canvas, in all their brash, muscular – You best believe that a festival that opens and arrogant glory. History, it seems, paints with the Wu and closes with Roxy Music will its leaders in the light they wished to be have the entire Word team reaching for its

© Aaron van Erp & Hoet Bekaert Gallery remembered in. Not if Aaron van Erp has press card. Some of the other acts include anything to do with it though. Turning the The Dandy Warhols, Dizzee Rascal and The 07. concept of cult figure into a mockery, he ridi- Horrors. Essential. cules stalwarts of cult leaderships, leaving out  lokersefeesten.be their body parts and dissolving their beings into shades of nothingness. The point van Erp makes is simple: what is there actually to be 08. Back in the days seen? Indeed. French designer Agnès B’s com- mitment to the arts is unquestioned. She has Aaron van Erp - The truth about tables, her own foundation and regularly puts on

© Auguste Orts mattresses and fried dog shows in her many shops around the world.  Until 27th June 2010 But it didn’t all start that way. When she 08. ☞ Hoet Bekaert Gallery, Ghent opened her first store in Les Halles (Paris),  iets.be she witnessed a cultural whirlwind: the birth of Cold Wave. Incepted by remnants of the punk movement, Cold Wave billed itself * as an ultra-creative front, wholesome in its The auction ` acceptance of every artistic form: music, to go to painting, video and writing. Drawing on a wide range of materials (photographs, album Qui dit mieux? covers, concert posters) the exhibition gives @ Flagey (Brussels), from 27th to 29th May the movement (which is undergoing somewhat 2010 – Fifty emerging artists and fashion of a revival) the props it deserves. designers show their work in the hope of auc- tioning it off to the highest bidder. A chance Des jeunes gens modernes to get a feel for what creativity is cooking in its  Until 20th June 2010 studios and support young talent. ☞ Espace Art22, Brussels  flagey.be  espace-art22.com © Catherine Faux FASHION FOR WALLS by Levis Ambiance

www.levis.info

2AKZB309_Ambiance_295x210_EN.indd 1 13/08/09 10:25 14 The diary

United Kingdom ( 1 1  1 6 )

09. Tons of friends 09. 11. The unseen When you are given the opportu- To the great despair of privacy nity to show not at one, not at two, but at three advocates, the UK is today the most surveyed venues concurrently (Antwerp’s Foto Museum, country in the world, with probably just as Marchin’s cultural centre and Liege/Luik’s Les many CCTV cameras as there are rats on Brasseurs) the least you could do is bring some the London Underground. This culture of of your artist friends along. And this is exactly surveillance has created a fascination with what Belgian photographer Jacky Lecouturier voyeurism, be it at the amateur, professional has done. Aptly titled ‘Polaroid/Friends’, the or artistic level. With over 250 photographs show presents Lecouturier’s poetic visual nar- on show, Tate Modern’s exhibition reveals just

rative, which begins where Andrei Tarkovsky © Jacky Lecouturier how deep this fascination runs, with every- left off: soft, suggestive and timid. Some of the thing from an infamous Marilyn photograph other photographers on display include Olivier 10. taken by Weegee to a shot of Paris Hilton on Cornil (one-time Word contributor) as well as her way to prison, as well as a worrying amount Hugues de Wurstemberger. of material from everyday peeping toms. Not the most reassuring of exhibitions, but timely Jacky Lecouturier – nonetheless. Des Polaroids / Des Amis  Until 19th June 2010 Exposed – Voyeurism, surveillance ☞ Les Brasseurs, Liege and the camera  brasseursannexe.be  From 28th May to 3rd October 2010 ☞ Tate Modern, London  tate.org.uk/modern * The show you can’t miss 12. On-the-spot Sometimes the work of two artists Damien Roach ‘Thought forms’ is so resolutely different in their respective @ Meessen de Clerq, until 29th May 2010 approach that bringing them together creates – Sculptures, videos, installations and col- a new understanding of their work. With its lages are some of the many medias used by summer exhibition, London’s Serpentine Roach to construct a bewildering, immersive Gallery spurs an unlikely dialogue between

and engaging world of perceptions and © Karl Waldmann English sculptor Barlow and German artist interpretations. Baghramian. Whilst Barlow’s work has a  meessendeclercq.be 11. sense of urgency to it which lends it a certain scruffiness, Baghramian’s is more composed, more calculated. Seen together, their work adds legitimacy to one another’s, in somewhat of a 10. Spic clean cacophonous expression of shared thoughts Hygiene is nothing else than a and interests. protective system guarding our body against unwanted bacteria. Its application is intrinsi- Nairy Baghramian and Phyllida Barlow cally bound to national identity, with certain  Until 13th June 2010 countries having a darker history than others ☞ Serpentine Gallery, London in the field - the Germany of the 1930s, for  serpentinegallery.org example, transformed its Hygiene Institutes into centers for the safeguard and valorisation of the Aryan race. Indeed, to understand our

modern fascination with hygiene, one must © Georges Dudognon * look to the past, or the arts. In this exhibi- The show tion, it is done through the collages of Karl 12. you can’t miss Waldmann, the dramatic paintings of Anton Solomoukha or even the toned-down sculp- Martin Wilner ‘Making history: UK’ tures of Ricard Aymar. @ Hales Gallery (London), until 29th May 2010 – New Yorker Milner shows a series of 12 ink, Hygiene and (national) identity pen and graphite drawings each depicting a  Until 26th June 2010 month in the year (2009 in this case). Rugged ☞ Galerie Pascal Polar, Brussels and rough, Milner’s mostly monochromed work  pascalpolar.be affords a crafted sensibility, soft yet poignant.  halesgallery.com © Baghramian & Barlow Neighbourhood 15

13. Stone cold 15. A princess’ wardrobe 13. Marc Quinn studies the body Grace Kelly’s spectacular ward- and, more specifically, its mutability. robe was the topic of much discussion through- Working dual paradoxes that define human out her career. From the clothes she wore in life (surface and depth, cerebral and sexual) her movies, to the dresses she chose for the and developing them into figurative forms, red carpet and those she grew into as Princess Quinn uses a wide range of material (he has Grace of Monaco, never had a public figure’s worked with everything from marble and fashion sense been so intensely scrutinised. In glass to ice and blood) to construct his power- fact, she inspired such adulation that fashion ful, impeccably sculpted and poetic narrative. designers fell over each other to create the most For this exhibition, Quinn presents a new lavish gowns exclusively for their princess. In body of work: sculptures made of bronze, an exhibition sectioned into three parts (the marble and silver depicting people who actress, the bride and the princess), the V&A have undergone extreme levels of plastic and explores her style’s many evolutions, cementing transformative surgery. More often than not, Grace, once and for all, as the de-facto public these people are household names, making muse of the century. the show all the more interesting. Grace Kelly: Style icon th Marc Quinn  Until 26 September 2010 © Roger Wooldridge Courtesy White Cube  Until 26th June 2010 ☞ Victoria and Albert Museum, London ☞ White Cube Hoxton Square, London  vam.ac.uk 14.  whitecube.com

16. Same difference * Upon first inspection, you’d be The festival forgiven for thinking Nina Abney’s paint- to camp out at ings are the works of talented yet disturbed children. Look a little closer though, and an Lovebox intricate and intense altered reality reveals th th @Victoria Park (London), from 16 to 18 July itself. Exploring notions of race interchange- ©Ernesto Neto 2010 – A firm staple on London’s summer ability and gender mix, Abney plays around festival circuit, this year’s edition sees every- with body parts, stretching the boundaries 15. one from Roxy Music and Yeasayer to current of what is politically-acceptable. A powerful Word playlist heavy rotator Toro Y Moi. storyteller, Abney’s world is full of mystery,  lovebox.net satire and fantasy, made all the more intrigu- ing with her vivid choice of colours and angular brush strokes. 14. The magic of form It wouldn’t be wrong to say that Nina Chanel Abneyn Brazilian artist Ernesto Neto sees things life-  Until 20th June 2010 sized, if not even over-sized. Renowned for ☞ Fred (London) ltd, London his monumental installations of, in most cases,  fred-london.com stretched lycra, Neto creates flowing shapes and forms, the likes of which a nutty biologist would be proud of. Organic and sensuous, his *

work highlights the influence space and conti- The concert © Everett Collection / Rex features nuity has on the internal psyche, to the point of to catch appeasement - imagine Alice in Wonderland 16. for grownups. At the Hayward gallery, he Stone Temple Pilots transforms the interior of the upper galleries @ Brixton Academy (London), on 16th June through a series of mind-boggling installations, 2010 – Together with Soundgarden and Pearl as well as shows new large-scale sculptures Jam, The Stone Temple Pilots embody the 1990s made out of steel. grunge movement’s flirtation with hard rock, with heavier, although more melodic compositions. Ernesto Neto: The edges of the world A gig the forgotten kids of the naughties won’t  From 19th June to 5th September 2010 want to miss. ☞ Hayward Gallery, London  o2academybrixton.co.uk  southbankcentre.co.uk © Nina Chanel Abney 16 The diary

Holland ( 1 7 1 8 ) France ( 1 9  2 0 )

17. Searching for an identity 17. 19. Role playing The plight of Ukraine’s post- Bettina Rheims is looking for Soviet identity crisis has fuelled many an Rose, her fictional sister. This is the starting academic debate, but has never been the point of an intimate journey through Paris, subject of a visual exploration. What does the pretext the German photographer together it mean to be Ukranian? Does the country’s with her closest confidante the writer Serge future lie to the east (Russia) or the West Bramly use to create one long serial story (Europe)? Seeking to give sense to these which captures an intimate side of Paris. questions, nine East-European photographers A total of 100 photographs are presented, have been asked to shoot documentaries showing the heroine wandering in the city, capturing the challenges of creating a national innocently and unrestrictedly, in a variety of identity for oneself in a country with such a scenes that alternate between painting and

deeply divided soul. The resulting photo- © Rafael Milach cinema. With over 100 unknown and famous graphs, though exposing the remaining traces models contributing to the project, the sheer of Soviet domination, present an optimistic 18. ambition of the approach is in itself reason picture of the country, with its contrasts, enough to catch the show. variety and vibrancy in full view. Rose, c’est Paris – Bettina Rheims and Ukraine – In search of an identity Serge Bramly  Until 13th June 2010  Until 11th July 2010 ☞ Noorderlicht Photography, Groningen ☞ National Library of France, Paris  noorderlicht.com  bnf.fr

* *

The concert © Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin The festival to catch to camp out at 19. Sleigh Bells Giles Peterson’s Worldwide Festival @ Paradiso (Amsterdam), on 1st June 2010 – @ Sète, from 8th until 11th July 2010 – Set When youthful energy (and packs of it) goes in the idyllic port town of Sète in Southern unused and somehow ends up in the studio, France, Giles Peterson’s Worldwide festival it sounds a little like Sleigh Bells. Signed to attracts the musician’s musicians: Gil Scott- M.I.A’s NEET imprint, think the Ting Tings’ Heron, The Gaslamp Killer, Josh Wink and playfulness together with the Fly Girlz’s Norman Jay being just some of the names exuberance. on the bill. At the time of going to press,  paradiso.nl cosmo killer Flying Lotus had also just been confirmed.  worldwidefestival.com

18. Full circle Having left Amsterdam in 1985 to open a studio in New York, the most 20. Son of a painter famous couple in fashion photography – Beat Takeshi Kitano, emblematic Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinood Matadin – figure of Japanese cinema, doesn’t take himself comes back to the city where it all started for too seriously. His work is characterised by a a long-awaited retrospective at Foam. Despite joyful, humouristic and self-effacing nature,

having shot campaigns for everyone from YSL © Bettina Rheims rudimentary yet pleasant, the kind to instantly to Balmain and Chloé, the duo has adeptly bring a smile to your face. Making a mockery of crossed the boundaries between fashion and 20. contemporary art’s penchant for snobbery and art, doing just as much as Helmut Newton or high-mindedness, his work revels in breaking Nick Knight to bring the media into the realm down clichés, often exploiting his fascination of fine art. Showing over 300 photographs, of and nostalgia for childhood to further taunt the show mixes art, fashion and portraits to his critics in the art world (he has many). His highlight the pair’s invaluable contribution to choice of colours is vibrant and refreshing, but fine art fashion photography. it really is his paintings’ inherent innocence which leaves a lasting impression. Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin - Pretty much everything Beat Takeshi Kitano – Gosse de peintre  From 25th June to 15th September 2010  Until 12th September 2010

☞ Foam, Amsterdam © Beat Takeshi Kitano ☞ Fondation Cartier, Paris  foam.nl  fondation.cartier.com Symfonie concerts. Orkest Brussels. Palais des Beaux-Arts.

DISCOVER the Flanders Symphony Orchestra’s 2010-2011 season with his new chief conductor SEIKYO KIM. Seikyo Kim. © Eisuke Miyoshi

For more INFORMATION have a look at www.symfonieorkest.be

Order your programme leaflet for our concerts in Brussels at [email protected]

adv The Word 2010-2011 Seikyo 2.indd 1 07-05-2010 13:20:00 18 The diary

Gigs to catch

Jonsi Au Revoir Simone The Acorn Mondo Generator Willie Nelson Hepcat radio 29th May 2010 5th June 2010 & Xiu Xiu 15th June 2010 24th June 2010 24th June 2010 @ L’Ancienne @ Petrol 5th June 2010 @Charlatan (Ghent) @ L’Ancienne @ Petrol Belgique (Antwerp) @ Botanique charlatan.be Belgique (Antwerp) (Brussels) petrolclub.be (Brussels) (Brussels) petrolclub.be abconcerts.be botanique.be abconcerts.be

— Jón “Jonsi” Þór — If Sofia Coppola — Canadian — Although he — Iconic figure — As its website Birgisson, emblem- hadn’t entrusted Air indie-folksters played bass with Josh of country music, suggests, Hepcat atic front man of to pen the sound- The Acorn make Homme in Kyuss and Willie Nelson has Radio is a radio ‘with Icelandic post-folk tracks to her two the kind of songs The Queens of the done it all, from its feet in the past, outfit Sigur Ros, first movies, this that poets write Stone Age, it is really collaborations with its heart in the now has just recently soft-spoken trio’s prose to, such is the with his own band, Norah Jones to a and its ears to the branched out on innocent, dreamy emotive discourse Mondo Generator, Booker T-produced future’. Its weekly his own with his and incestuously which underpins the that Nick Oliveri’s album. His emo- broadcast reveals a first solo LP, Go. As girly sound would band’s composition. talent fully shines tional blend of broad-minded and rich and complex have surely fit the Backed by Xiu Xiu, through. ‘campfire’ songwrit- very contemporary as his band’s sound part. who present their ing has inspired pallet of taste, dosed is, Jonsi’s solo work most radio-friendly Play Koln everyone from Hot in 21st century proves rather more Play Paris LP to date, Dear (Underground) Chip’s Alexis Taylor soul. For this night personal, and enjoy- (Cité de la Musique) God I Hate Myself. on 16th June 2010 to Johnny Cash. at Petrol, the show ably so. on 1st June 2010 (Really). brings along Hudson Play Rotterdam Plays London Mohawke, Rustie Plays London Play London Play London (Tunifeest) (Hammersmith and Dorian Concept. (London Forum) (Scala) (Hoxton Bar & on 17th June 2010 Apollo) on 26th May 2010 on 10th June 2010 Kitchen) on 11th June 2010 on 3rd June 2010 Play Paris (Glazart) Plays Koln Play Pukkelpop on 22nd June 2010 Plays Amsterdam (Live Music Hall) on 21st August 2010 Play Paris (Melkweg) on 31st May 2010 (La Flèche d’Or) on 18th June 2010 on 4th June 2010 Plays Amsterdam Plays Paris (Paradiso) Play Amsterdam (Olympia) on 2nd June 2010 (Bitterzoet) on 26th June 2010 on 7th June 2010 Plays Paris (Bataclan) on 7th June 2010 Give aways

Four 70cl bottles of Two pairs of tickets to

Absolut Vodka’s The Acorn & Xiu Xiu Limited edition Art of Sharing collection, on 5th June 2010 designed by Stephen Powers and Chiho Aoshima @ Botanique (Brussels)

Ten recordings of Two pairs of tickets to

THE Brussels Philharmonic Willie Nelson – Het Vlaams Radio Orkest on 24th June 2010 (Edward Elgar by Martyn Brabbins) @ L’ Ancienne Belgique (Brussels)

What you need to do. Send an email to [email protected], either ‘Absolut Vodka Art of Sharing’, ‘Brussels Philharmonic’ or the name of the concert you wish to go to in the subject line. The first readers to do so will each win either a bottle of vodka, a CD or a pair of tickets to the concert of their choice. Conditions. Only one pair of tickets permitted per reader. Tickets not for resale. Until tickets last. Applies to Belgium only. Normal conditions apply. Brussels Philharmonic – het Vlaams Radio Orkest SCHUMANN 4 Michel Tabachnik, conductor – with Wendy Sutter, cello & Vlaams Radio Koor 21/06/2010: BRUSSELS (BOZAR)

Claude Debussy – Nocturnes Philip Glass – Concerto for Cello and Orchestra Robert Schumann – Symphony no 4

NEW SEASON NOW AVAILABLE! Request your personal copy of our new season’s programme, and receive one of our magnificent buttons! Send your name & address to [email protected]

THE WORD READER EVENT Email [email protected] for your chance to get invited to a Word-exclusive night with Brussels Philharmonic – het Vlaams Radio Orkest on Mon- day 21st June at Bozar (Brussels). On the programme: nibbles, cocktails and a conversation with conductor Michel Tabachnik.

www.brusselsphilharmonic.be Brussels Philharmonic – het Vlaams Radio Orkest is een instelling van de Vlaamse Gemeenschap. Vlaams Omroeporkest en Kamerkoor vzw | Eugène Flageyplein 18 B-1050 Brussel | T +32 2 627 11 60 | [email protected] 20 The papers Water cooler Technology We love Consume Lifestyle

— We could have filled these pages 100 times over with overheated hype about the next big thing – but we decided to leave the over-excited public- relations guff to the other magazines. We’d rather take a look at the mechanisms behind the whole publicity machine, and check out some of the people trying to subvert the system – independent publishers, garden shed inventors, digital trend spotters. We’ll leave the breakthrough activities to the big brain computers and rocket scientists – next stop: Alpha Centauri!

Writers Sarah Thorowgood, Sabine Clappaert, Alex Deforce, Tania Mara Rabesandratana Neighbourhood 21

Plug me in Imagine connecting all PCs in the world into a supercomputer that could store big amounts of data and perform strenuous jobs. This break- through is called Grid computing, and it’s hap- pening already. Bob Jones is project director of EGEE (Enabling Grids for E-sciencE) at CERN in Geneva. The world’s largest grid infrastructure connects about 150,000 computers 24/7, offer- ing millions of gigabytes of storage space to thou- sands of data-crunching scientists. EGEE links up existing machines and develops software to make the supercomputer a functional reality. From analysing global climate data to reconstructing the sound of long-lost musical instruments, through to processing phenome-

nally large data sets from CERN’s Large Hadron © Virassamy Collider, Grid computing should enable major scientific breakthroughs. “Not only are we doing stuff much faster, we are also doing things computing, The Grid is free, collaborative and The World Wide Web was initially devel- we couldn’t do before,” Jones notes. open, though not everyone can use it yet. Science oped at CERN for the scientific community, Businesses use a similar technology called users “get a passport delivered by special author- before being extended to the whole planet. Cloud computing. For example, when you ities, just like a normal passport. We know who Eventually, the same should happen for The upload photos on Flickr, the data is managed they are,” Jones explains. “In some ‘countries’, Grid – but you may not even notice it. (TR) by software located, not on your computer, but users also need a visa to do certain things on the elsewhere in the “Cloud”. Contrary to Cloud Grid, such as modifying files.” gridcafe.org — eu-egee.org

Go go G force ! Marc G. Millis is a retired rocket scientist. After 31 years at NASA, he now leads Tau Zero – a nonprofit foundation that hopes to make interstellar travel a reality, not just a Star Trek fantasy. At NASA, Marc headed the 1.6-million- dollar Breakthrough Propulsion Physics Project. From 1996 to 2002, he searched for ways for make spacecrafts travel faster than light. Marc believes that dramatic advances in physics could make it possible, and that we shouldn’t wait idly for such breakthroughs to happen. “There are well-funded efforts to do the obvious next research steps, but looking that far beyond is absent,” he deplores. NASA

dropped the project, but Marc keeps looking © Virassamy and “gets a kick out of it”. Interstellar flight is tough because space is huge. If we travelled at the speed of light, we Hence, breakthrough hopefuls dream of replete with examples of such breakthroughs,” would need 4.2 years to reach Alpha Centauri, propellant-free propulsion. This means no Marc says. “We are trying to reach something the nearest star we know of. Even the Voyager less than freeing spacecrafts from gravity. Marc outrageous,” he admits, but “the photocopier spacecraft would take 80,000 years to make studies hypothetic "space drives", a conceptual wasn’t invented by those who were still trying the trip. Plus, there are no gas stations along form of propulsion that uses the properties not to improve carbon paper.” (TR) the way: even with top-notch nuclear engines, of the spacecraft itself, but of the space around rockets would need XXL supertankers to get it to propel the ship. tauzero.aero — centauri-dreams.org there – and back. “The history of science and technology is 22 The papers

ˆ “ ‘To Hell with publishing’, slurred one of them, and they realised that maybe they had a point… ”

ˇ © Charlotte May Wales

Pictured from left to right novelist Grant Gillespie, publisher Laurence Johns and editor Lucy Owen

how to navigate their way through the murky 20th century – but there’s something delicious- Those damned waters of the corporate book publishing and ly young, new and rebellious about the ideas selling world – a world full of dubious 3-for-2 behind THW, and their shop in Bloomsbury’s book deals, unfeasible retail discounts and Woburn Walk reflects this old/new world admi- first novelists vast author advances. ‘To Hell with publish- rably. On the shelves you’ll find a singular col- ing’, slurred one of them, and they realised that lection of rare works and first editions, one-off It’s turning out to be a busy year for our break- maybe they had a point… maybe there was a limited editions from THW and newly pub- through publishing company To Hell With way to tackle the mighty competition – tackle lished fiction. There’s no back list here, Lucy Publishing. As well as launching a bold new it head on. explained, because it got too upsetting working literary fiction imprint called To Hell with And so to To Hell with First Novels, a neat out what to order and what they would have to First Novels and a series of reprinted rare publishing move borne out of budgetary con- turn down, so they are only stocking the shop books, the company has also set up a literary straints (you try bidding for a hot new author with new fiction that they like and that has been prize for unpublished writers (£5,000 is up for without the financial backing of, say, Penguin or published since the shop opened in December grabs on the evening which will see readings Random House) that makes a virtue out of the last year. With a generous wooden table in the from the likes of Hanif Kureshi, DBC Pierre necessity of only being able to afford unknown, middle of the shop and what looks suspiciously and Andrew O’Hagen), published the latest first-time authors. This May sees the publica- like a cocktail bar for a cash desk, we can’t wait volume in its series of literary journals (A-Z) tion of the first in the series, The Cuckoo Boy to investigate further. (ST) and has opened what is certainly now one of by Grant Gillespie, which Lucy Owen, commis- our favourite London bookshops (yes, it’s sioning editor of the series, describes as having tohellwith.wordpress.com called To Hell with Books). the well-observed, thoughtful precision and So where do we start? Well, let’s begin succinctness of Henry James and the humor- with the name. Like many a brave idea, To ous, suburban darkness of Mike Leigh. It’s the Hell With… was conjured up out of equal first of what they hope will be a long and illustri- measures of frustration and booze at 4 o’clock ous line of new writing talent to come from the in the morning. Rare book dealer Laurence THW stable, and, having read an early draft of Johns (the company’s founder) and author Gillespie’s impressive debut, we’ll be keeping a Michael Smith, ‘tired’ after a well lubricated close eye on them from now on. evening spent packing up a limited edition of Laurence Johns wants to take publishing his book The Giro Playboy, were discussing back to the glorious small press days of the early Neighbourhood 23

ˆ “ The third sentence is mind blowing, considering it was written in 1974, long before technologies such as mobile phones, hands-free and voice recognition were ever invented.” ˇ © Sarah Eechaut

The paper contains a list of three short sen- from all angles and acts like an extra rear-view Enter tences and a rudimentary drawing of a headset mirror. This is particularly useful to skiers or with what looks like a built-in microphone: “A construction workers who don’t always have the throw-away cardboard comb for hairdress- time to see what’s happening behind them.” the inventor ers (for hygiene),” reads the first sentence in a “I’m always looking at how I can improve young boy’s spidery handwriting. “An LP with things,” says Marcoux, adding: “There is a Forty-two year old Guy Marcoux meets us the sound of the sea… So people can relax,” saying that goes ‘A clever plumber will always outside the imposing buildings of Belgium’s notes the second. earn more than a dumb plumber’. So I look at deepest mine: the Beringen coal mine just The third sentence is mind blowing, con- existing items and try to make them better. For outside his home town, Beringen. Officially, sidering it was written in 1974, long before instance: Why doesn’t Senseo have a pad holder Guy is a graphic designer who owns a signage technologies such as mobile phones, hands-free in the shape of a teabag? Or why don’t we have a company. But he is also a qualified glass blower and voice recognition were ever invented. “A perfume that is water resistant? Why has no one and his work can be found as far afield as Italy telephone headset that can store 50 numbers. thought of bubble-wrap in specific shapes that and Australia. And apart from that he’s also a The headset recognizes your voice and dials help denote the content, like bubble-wrap in the proud amateur geologist whose collection of the number automatically.” shape of skulls to notify airport customs agents stone artefacts dating back to the Palaeolithic, More than 30 years have passed since Guy that the parcel contains hazardous material, Mesolithic and Neolithic stone ages has been first wrote those dreamy thoughts on paper, or themed bubble-wrap in the shape of hearts certified authentic by Beringen’s archaeology yet his eyes still burn with the same unbridled for Valentine’s Day, for instance? And why museum. Some people call him a walking ency- boyish enthusiasm. “I’m forever thinking “what isn’t there a gps-system that can be mounted on clopaedia. Asked what he calls himself, Guy if, what if…”, says Guy, “I’m not an engineer, so motorbikes to send a sonar signal to the gps-sys- stares dreamily into the distance: “An artist. I don’t sit down and try to devise an answer to a tems of surrounding cars to let them know that An artist who is also an inventor.” specific problem in a structured, analytical way. a motorbike is approaching? And why do cars Sitting in the museum’s café Guy gently Thoughts simply pop into my head and before have such big reverse brake lights compared to unfolds a piece of faded green paper on which I know it I have a new way of doing something.” the size of the car, and yet trucks, which cause the he, as a seven-year-old boy, wrote down his Guy races through his words, thoughts clearly majority of accidents, still have such tiny brake first inventions. “Look at the handwriting”, he flashing faster than his vocal cords can accom- lights! Why has no-one solved these questions?” smiles nostalgically, “I kept swapping between modate: “For instance, I designed the ‘mirror frowns Marceaux as he lights another cigarette, longhand and printed letters…I still do that glove’ – a glove with a small mirrored ball on the takes a sip of his dark frothy beer and squints today, you know.” back of the hand that reflects the surroundings dreamily into the late afternoon sun. (SC) 24 The papers

ˆ “I’ve gotten my hands on these sneakers with a pigeon design, one day you'll cry over these and try to kill me! ”

ˇ © la villa hermosa

walking around who will happily take on an about transparency and privacy will soon be Watching the evangelical role. They’re the enthusiasts who irrelevant, when we arrive at a generation that’s were once walking alone mumbling: “Dubstep grown up without even the slightest notion of it. is going to be big one day, mark my words!”, We live in the era of the geeks, whether you trendwatchers or “I’ve gotten my hands on these sneakers like it or not. Even if you’re not into technology, if with a pigeon design, one day you'll cry over you’re anything close to fashionable, you’ll prob- Before talking about the noble art of trend these and try to kill me!” By now, all of these ably have your geeky accessories matching your watching, go to Wikipedia and search the topic. people have proven right, and they’re care- weekend outfit anyhow. And the geeks… they The system replies: ‘did you mean train watch- fully watched (aka Street Combed) by the cool love it, but they can’t help it, so they continue ing?’ Trend watching is not rocket science; one hunters walking down the streets. doing what they do best, living at the cutting edge can only watch, observe and spot. When one More than anything it’s social factors that of what new technology is about to offer us. is really good at it, however, the spotted trend push things into the mainstream. There’s a big dif- It is also important to zoom out. According will get translated (‘trendslated’) and market- ference between the so-called micro and macro to futurologist James Cridland, Australia is the ed, only to conquer the world, and reach many trends. When carefully analysed, these help to place to watch nowadays: “Australia wasn’t really followers. How does this process happen? define any generation's soft spots. For the current affected by the financial crisis, because of that you Surely there must be some mechanisms behind generation, the trend watchers have coined see all kinds of interesting initiatives over there.” it, if only to trigger things and maybe eventu- expressions such as: ‘online oxygen’, ‘connectiv- Don’t put all your faith in trend watching; ally manipulate the Zeitgeist? ity’, ‘glocal’ (global + local). In some cases, these if we left things up to the watchers, there would Trend watching is not cool hunting, trends will be extrapolated into different plau- be dozens of new trends every day. In the times it’s bigger than that, but the cool kids will sible and not-so-plausible future scenarios. The ahead, keep your eyes and ears open for ‘net- undoubtedly trigger certain trends. Although best trend watchers are daydreamers, not unlike worked objects’, ‘social shopping’, ‘cloud servic- they are a product of trend evolution, rather children. Ten years from now, what is today es’, ‘augmented reality’ and all things ‘real time’ than the force behind it, tracking the so-called called ‘technology’ might simply be called 'life'. and ‘3.0’ if you wish. As for fashion, mini-skirts 'early adopters' is one of the most popular Kids growing up now don‘t look at the Internet are once again completely in style, combined ways of watching trends. Whether it's fashion, or their mobile phone as ‘a way to connect’, it’s with a t-shirt, tank top or a classic blouse. Oh technology or culture, society has early birds simply what they live by. Current discussions yeah, and green is the new black. (AD) Maasmechelen Village Luxury outlet shopping

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070510-THE WORD-ADV MMV.indd 1 08-04-2010 17:28:49 26 The exhibition A r t s P l a y Talent Photography

— Photography is a subject close to Word hearts. Having worked it A4 for the better part of our short-lived existence, we couldn’t wait to blow things up a little, giving long-awaited physical relevance to some of the talent that has graced the magazine’s pages. After close to three months of blood, sweat and many, many tears, the show finally opened on Friday 23rd April, to (wait for it), rave reviews. We had rooms (and a courtyard) full of laughter, the customary Absolut cocktails as well as crowds of cool-cookie creatives and local artsy intellectuals. The lucky few even got invited to an afterparty we threw at Area 42.

Photography Melika Ngombe Neighbourhood 27 28 The institution We love Lifestyle Classic

On our corner — A Brussels landmark as soon as its doors opened eight years ago, the iconic Café Belga has become the social hub that transformed a neighbourhood.

Photography Merel’t Hart Writer Randa Wazen

Located on Place Flagey, right beneath the Undoubtedly the biggest and busiest, the birds flock in for a quick coffee before work, cultural centre Le Flagey, its huge corner win- Belga’s terrace located on the Place Sainte- others chose to begin the day with a satisfying dowed façade and even bigger terrace have Croix / Heilig Kruisplein and facing one of the breakfast or attempt to cure a hangover with made the café impossible to miss. Calling it a Ixelles ponds is ideal to enjoy some rare UV rays one of the heavenly fresh juices. Come lunch- local institution would be an understatement, while people watching. Regulars will pack onto time, you can bring yourself up to date with the and few would dispute the idea that Café Belga the terrace at any cost, even if it means ventur- day’s newspapers while eating one of the salads singlehandedly managed to put the Flagey ing out in nearly polar temperatures or sitting on served in a trademark glass. Catch up with a district back on the map. “There was clearly a the floor when all the chairs are occupied. Who friend over a cup of tea in the early afternoon political and communal will to renovate the area ever said having a drink was meant to be relax- before hitting that first beer during the after- and its urban space. So I guess it seemed like the ing? During peak hours, it’s a battle. Get ready to work slot, when the place gets flooded with perfect timing to invest in it,” explains François, queue and fight for a table; if you manage to make students, creatives working in the area (global who’s been managing the café for the past seven it, the sense of victory will be a reward in itself. advertising agency Publicis has its offices years. Created by Frédéric Nicolay (who else?), Fortunately, the staff is very helpful, with more above) and Schuman’s Eurocrats. it bears the characteristic attention to detail barmen than there are bar women . “Being a huge Depending on the day of the week, you can familiar from other favourites like Tavernier, and busy place, the work gets physically intense. discover a great jazz band, dance the night away the Zebra or the Walvis; warm wooden interior I’d love to have more women on the staff, but it’s during wild DJ sets or even be lucky enough to with a carefully studied ancient/authentic feel, hard finding girls who are able to keep up.” catch the exclusive showcase of some special stylish design, counter service, pleasant tunes, Open from 8am, Café Belga take on multi- guest: in 2008, Moby performed a 45-minute free gigs, healthy snacks, and outdoor seating. ple identities over the course of the day. Early acoustic gig for free and at his own request, the Life 29 only condition being that there would be no publicity. Brussels word of mouth was efficient enough to deliver an insane crowd squeezed into the café, rapidly filled beyond capacity, and spilling on to the square and streets of the area. During the summer, the terrace morphs into an open-air theatre, screening movies within the Brussels Film Festival programme. At closing time, generally around 2 or 3am, the peckish ones, knackered on Belga cocktails of vodka, Canada Dry and violet syrup crawl to the square’s legendary fritkot (an institution in itself) conveniently located right across the street.

ˆ Moby performed a 45- minute acoustic gig for free … the only condition being that there would be no publicity

ˇ

From a Belgian perspective, it’s a miracle that a place with no indoor smoking or table service has thrived so long after its novelty factor has worn off. The smoking ban has not had a negative effect on the business, thanks to the heated terrace and provision of blankets: if anything the café has managed to attract a wider and more family-friendly clientele as a result. As for the counter service, it was first initiated at Nicolay’s Saint-Géry cafés, and shook the clients’ habits. Although widely accepted now, the concept is still not the most popular, but François remains convinced it is a necessity. “People may not be very pleased about standing at the bar to order, but consid- ering the size of the place, they’d have to wait five times longer if we were to bring drinks and food to their table. The situation would become unmanageable and prices would inevi- tably rise.” However, some still find it hard to stomach, the main argument being “why should I pay twice as much for a beer as I would in a supermarket if I have to get it myself anyways?” Fair enough. But at the end of the day, you’re not paying for your actual drink. You’re forking It doesn’t really bother me per se, but has truly Café Belga out to gorge on the café’s atmosphere, watch the changed the atmosphere and the identity of the Place Eugène Flageyplein people, and be part of the institution. neighbourhood. It feels weird thinking I live 1050 Brussels Opened on June 18th in 2002, Café Belga somewhere that’s now become hip.” Besides Tel: +32 (0) 2 640 35 08 was a revolution in the quiet Place Flagey / upping Flagey’s cool factor and directly con- Flageyplein. A few decades back this was a lively tributing to its considerable property boom, Everyday from 8am to 2am except Fridays neighbourhood with local businesses, activities Café Belga has catalysed a boom of trendy bars & Saturdays from 8am to 3am and a village-like intimacy. The central espla- like Bar du Marché, Nexx, Le Tigre, Irish pub Kitchen open from 9am to 4pm nade was home to a weekly street market, the De Valera’s, or artsy Café Murmure. One has annual Bouglione circus, a Portuguese party, to hand it to Mr Nicolay. The man has always parades, and neighbourhood parties. However been a visionary with an unmatched talent for it all died out, thanks, among other things, to revamping the city’s neglected and seedy areas intrusive and apparently endless road works. with his bars and restaurants. Just look at his “I was extremely excited and immediately latest ventures like the Bar du Matin, opened less drawn to the place,” reminisces Elleni, who has than two years ago on Place Albert / Albertplein been living on the square for the past 25 years. in Forest / Vorst, or the Café Modèle, bordering “It was magnificent and very new. The café the canal in Molenbeek. It doesn’t take a psychic  Visit thewordmagazine.be/dribbles/ offered a lot of concerts, jam sessions, but also to predict that these distressed areas are well on onourcorner for more pictures of the attracted a very bobo and fauxhemian crowd. their way to become the capital’s next hot spots. place where everyone knows your name. 30 The Word on We love Exclusive Photography

Seeing the light — For some people, experiencing revelation and breakthrough is all part of the job.

Photography Sarah Eechaut Writer Yves Van Kerkhove

The track Alain Remue is the head of the Belgian missing persons bureau. This police unit was created in the aftermath of the infamous Dutroux case. Every day, four people disap- pear in Belgium. Nine out of 10 are found, be it alive or dead. ‘Never say never’ is Remue’s golden rule. The police detective does not think in terms of ‘whodunit?’ -‘where are they?’ is his first and only question. Most of his breakthroughs pass unnoticed, yet some of the cases are heavily mediatised. Life 31

The knowledge The story of the mobile school began in 1996, when Arnoud Raskin started the last year of his studies in industrial design. Instead of chosing a typical dissertation project on inno- vative versions of a hand blender, he devel- oped his mobile school: a box on wheels that can be extended to a big educational game board to be pulled by the street workers through the slums of Guatemala, Nairobi or Manila. The essence of the street work with the mobile school is focused on raising the self-esteem of the street kids. 32 The Word on

The light Father David is one of the youngest Carmelite monks in his monastery. He grew up in a lib- eral-catholic, rather new-age family, where he developed a sense for mysticism. The turning point in his life was a heavy pneumonia that kept him in a hospital bed. There, his longing for true love well surpassed the abundance of presents. After a brief period of philosophy studies, he surrendered to his vocation and entered the Carmelite monastery. Life 33

The formula Molecular biologist Marc Van Montagu is an internationally renowned pioneer in genetics. He discovered the mechanism of gene trans- fer, which is vital for the genetic modification of plants. Van Montagu is not the kind of mad professor developing monster tomatoes or Frankenstein food, but he’s the one construct- ing transgenic crops with a self-defence mechanism against insect pests and thus eradicating the use of chemical pesticides. 34 The other Word on Consume Watercooler P l a y Fashion

Love will tear us apart

— Worn, torn, patched up and torn again, our heart-wrenching wardrobe love stories keep on getting battered with every year that goes by. What do we think ? The bigger the tear, the bigger the pain.

Photography Sébastien Bonin Assistant Melika Ngombe

Jeans from Levi’s Style 35

Skirt from Zara 36 The other Word on

Shirt from A.P.C

Jeans from A.P.C Style 37

Sweater from Donna Karan

Stockings from La Perla 38 The showstoppers Consume We love Lifestyle Classic Fashion Technology

Absolutely smashing

— Life at the cutting edge can get pretty exhausting – kept awake at night by genius ideas, burning through the shoe leather as you sprint your way too and from the patent office, wrestling frustration as things fail to fall into place just so – we thought we’d help out with a little selection of bits and pieces to ease the life of all you bright sparks hanging in there for the next great breakthrough.

Photography Benoît Banisse Art direction and styling facetofacedesign Style 39

01. The holy grail

Just when we thought it was high time we stopped going to client meetings in beat down high tops and, instead, start making our billion dollar pitches in more adult- looking shoes, we stumble upon new brand on the block Jojo. Designed in Belgium, the fresh-faced sneaker distinguishes itself from the rest through its wrap-around shoe lace as well as its playful colour pairings. With strong environmental sensitivities underpinning the brand (for each pair of Jojo bought, one tree gets replanted in Niger, or one year’s supply of drinking water is secured for a person in Sierra Leone), there’s not a lot Jojo can do wrong in Word HQ at the moment.

Jojo (¤79) jojoproject.com Available in Brussels from Prive Joke and Reservoir Shop

02. GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRAAAAAGH!!!!

There you are, supervising the trial of an experimental gamma bomb for the US Defence Department one minute, and the next you find yourself transformed into a thick-skulled, mood-triggered mutant. Darn it, you’d think a genius scientist would be able to carry out his breakthrough research into nuclear weapons technology in peace without having to turn into a Marvel comic book icon every time he got a little too excited. Remind yourself not to get ANGRY with this T – it even glows in the dark for that alluring hint of radioactivity.

Hulk T-Shirt (¤59.95) Marvel Vs. Hilfiger Denim tommyhilfiger.be 40 The showstoppers

03. The birth of cool

We’re far from being experts in watch wizardry, although we know good design when we see it. Perfectly proportioned and carved out to please, Swatch’s classic watch has recently been given an artistic makeover in the shape of its 60+1_2 (pictured on the right). Designed by David Benedek as part of the company’s Colour Code Collection, the cool, composed and confident wrist wear – complete with lo-fi demeanour and engaging colour palette - ticks all the right boxes.

From left: Swatch’s Purple-And-White (¤38) and 60+1_2 (¤43) swatch.com

04. The ultimate breakthrough tool

When considering sheer force and the word “stiletto” (not to mention the onset of acute pain), one would probably think about footwear before hardware. The Stiletto TBII 15’s combi- nation of low weight titanium material and lev- erage both increases the strike force and allows for less user fatigue: it’s the kind of tool that will last forever. If the TBII 15 is the Prada stiletto of hammers, then Vaughan Manufacturing’s V5 is the new pair of Doc Martens. While less chic, it is more durable (the Stiletto can only be used for wood framing, the Vaughan can be used in any situation) and more affordable.

Top to bottom: Stiletto TBII 15 (¤255) Available from rutlands.co.uk Vaughan V5 (¤61) Available from axminster.co.uk

05. Future’s so bright

Founded early last year as a Euro-centric variant on the American original, Wired has quickly laid claim to our magazine stack's top spot. For most magazines, breakthrough content is all to do with style – format, delivery, image, graphics, interactivity. For Wired, breakthrough content involves finding out about the future before it happens. Which kind of leaves the rest of us choking on its dust.

Wired UK (¤7,90) wired.co.uk Style 41

06. Rep that Rap

We totally fell in love with design studio Unfold’s self-Replicating Rapid prototyper (RepRap) when it was on show at Z33’s ace Design by Performance exhibition. Their version was tinkered to print in porcelain, and hooked up to a nifty computer program that allowed visitors to throw virtual pots that were then built layer on layer by the RepRap over the duration of the exhibition. Created according to an open-source plan developed by Dr Adrian Bowyer, the RepRap is a financially accessible 3-D printer that can be replicated using parts that it can manu- facture itself, coupled on to locally available components. This one was built at Sint-Lukas University College in Brussels from a kit bought online.

Darwin RepRap kit (¤940) bitfrombytes.com

See page 94 for full product information. 42 The profile Underground M u s i c A r t s P l a y Lifestyle

Hey pretty baby, going to make you a star

— What does it take these days to hype yourself through to breakthrough point? We ask four industry insiders to give us the skinny on making it in music, politics, art and the tabloid press.

Photography KKGB Writer Hettie Judah + Anonymous

Behind most hot new stars there’s a breakthrough stampede towards whatever new act the herd for your breakthrough. Being admitted into story – a discovery myth packed with coinci- had managed to hype up within its ranks. the circle of fame acts as an endorsement: if the dence, lucky breaks and raw talent. The juicy Looking and acting the part is the first step famous people think that you’re good enough to waitress, whose polyester-clad charms catch the to breakthrough, whether that means airing your be famous, well, who are the rest of us to argue? eye of a Hollywood producer as she passes cherry stroppy good looks in the right Berlin bars to send For all our desire for discovery myths, part of pie across the counter. The uncompromising shivers round the art world, or rolling up your us knows that we’re being sold to, and our enthu- band that storm into the office of the label head shirt sleeves and growing your hair long enough siasm for novelty can quickly become tainted by with their demo tapes and get signed on the spot to be anointed a crusading political maverick. suspicion. We purify ourselves through our ten- for sheer audacity. The publicity-shy artist, dis- The perfect embodiment of style over substance dency to yank new stars off their pedestals as fast covered near starvation in his garret, who has his is the now familiar breed of indeterminate female as we put them up there. Breakthrough may be entire portfolio snapped up by a major collector. celebrities that keep the popular press so well sup- easy, but to stay hot you need people to like you The fearless politician prepared to risk his party plied with fleshy front-page snaps. Qualifications – the ruthless aggression, arrogant posturing and career for a cause he truly believes in. for this kind of breakthrough include the ability flexible morals that propelled you to fame are not There are few things that keep the celebrity- to get photographed falling out of doll-sized necessarily well suited to maintaining your posi- loving public dreaming more effectively than the clothes, the willingness to undergo major surgery tion in the public affection. notion that you can miraculously become famous in order to stay on the front pages, and a ruthless- The alternatives are to genuinely become and successful without needing to do anything so ness about your personal life that can translate the that thing that you’re pretending to be – a tal- undignified as try. In part, it’s because we all get most intimate encounters into headline news. ented artist, a real actress, a musician who can to share in the myth – every waitress can dream write - or to have such control over the relevant of being spotted, every pub band hold onto the sectors of the press that you can effectively manu- belief that one day, they too will be rewarded for ˆ facture and maintain an entirely fictional public staying true to their roots. persona. For a musician, model or artist it helps The breakthrough myth allows us to ignore Whether in the art world or to start dating the editor of a magazine, in poli- the machinery that keeps us so well fed with tics you can control the flow of information to next big things and makes sure that we’re always the music industry, it seems selected journalists (unless you’re in Italian poli- ready for more. Magazines from Grazia to Time that an astonishing number tics, in which case you can buy the newspaper and depend on a steady stream of new stories - be that threaten any journalist who steps out of line with the latest young designer, an artfully concocted of the supposed front-line actual bodily harm.) piece of celebrity gossip or a political scoop – to taste makers are guided For an illustration of how fragile fame is after fill their pages every week. Journalists, scouts a successful breakthrough, try leafing through a and talent hunters are on a constant heat-seeking by herd instinct rather than few out-of-date magazines and see how many mission, ears cocked for a tell-tale buzz that will taste or intelligence names stay the course. It makes you think, really, lead them to the next breakthrough. whether it might not be more noble to dream of Catch them when they’re tired, cynical, being a flash in the pan or a one-hit wonder than and fatigued insiders from every industry ˇ to put all the tiresome effort into actually making will disclose the well-trodden path that will it for real. Better a speedy breakthrough and even carry someone from struggling obscurity to Celebrity is infectious, and grows exponen- speedier retreat, perhaps, than hanging around to next-big-thingitude. The common line is that tially with every connection – whether you’re remind everyone that you’re yesterday’s news. no-one knows anything – whether in the art a young designer of questionable talent who world or the music industry, it seems that an becomes best friends forever with the top model KKGB is astonishing number of the supposed front-line of the moment, an aspiring TV presenter who Photographer Gabriele Trapani taste makers are guided by herd instinct rather buys herself credibility and column inches dating Art direction Nam Simonis than taste or intelligence. One music industry the singer of an indie band, or an ageing pin-up Stylists Amarande Angel / correspondent scathingly described the entire who boosts her recording career by marrying a Brunel Mintona A & R world as a flock of sheep, incapable of high profile politician. Hanging out with famous Hair & make up Orla McKeating independent opinions and always ready to people is one of the easiest ways to generate buzz at C’est Chic Life 43

Samuel: All clothes Model's own. Nathalie: T-Shirt Petit Bateau, jewellery Véritas. Vincent: blazer Brunel Mintona. Timothy: All clothes Model's own.

The hot new band

To make a buzz band you need to look the part: Lurk around Shoreditch on a daily and party. Cultivate some contacts in the world of emaciated to the point of collapse in jeans as nightly basis creating a ‘scene’. (‘Scenes’ are fashion. The Holy Grail in this world is Alexa skinny as drinking straws, your hair weighs what A&R men care about. None of them Chung. Get someone who knows someone who more than your head and is so directional in cut would know a half decent band if it stood up in is a friend of her make-up artists to invite her to that you must become accustomed to viewing the their pint). Creating a scene couldn’t be easier. your launch party. If she, oh hallelujah, actually world through one eye. On the feet - Converse Affiliate yourself with another band: perhaps turns up, manoeuvre her near the sound system or beaten up brogues. Over the t-shirt - a leather you could share a drummer or a bass player: and get her to press a button and then you can say jacket held together by ambition alone. as long as there is a skein of a recognisable that Alexa Chung DJ’d at your launch party and One member must be of semi-aristocratic her- sonic hook to your output then voila, you have honey, you have arrived. (“Lady Parker”) itage with a monthly allowance to fund your start up your scene. Next, make a record on an obscure (and pay for your drugs). You’ll also need a manager label and coerce the next Gavin Turk or Jake (to pay for your drugs when the monthly allow- Chapman to make a video that will cost twice ance dries up), and a handful of hazy long-haired as much as was budgeted for, take light years to Bambi-limbed girls to follow you everywhere, have edit, you will hate and no one will ever see. sex with occasionally (and pay for your drugs). And now we come to our nirvana - the launch 44 The profile Model Matti at Dominique Models Suit tie and shirt Café Costume

The celebrity politician

“If you are not on television or radio” the head Being media savvy and media friendly is in the Food Standards Agency - you need to be of a big research group said to me the other day, however a necessary but not sufficient condition mad. Not so much that people are concerned “you are dead.” Nowhere is this stomach-churn- for political success. It really does help if you for their safety when you are around, but mad ing bullshit more true than in the political world. are clever. Not too clever. Too smart and you so that you are ready to sacrifice everything, At party conferences old school friends have quickly receive the kiss-of-death label ‘wonkish’ everything – your family, your health, every last begged me to put them on the television, offering or ‘nerdy’ (see: British Foreign Secretary David scrap of dignity – in pursuit of high office. In to say or do pretty much anything so they can to Milliband, oh-so-yesterday’s man). But to get to 1993 Nicolas Sarkozy, then mayor of a prosper- get 15 seconds of face time on the magic lantern. the top you need to know the basics of contem- ous suburb of Paris, walked into a school where The media you need to deal with are of porary history, politics and economics. Nobody an explosives laden lunatic had taken a bunch of course changing fast; the two biggest recent hits else does, but some smart-alec journalist will children hostage and negotiated the releases of from the Palace of Nonentities - the European catch you out pretty fast if you don’t (see: Sarah the boys and girls. That’s the kind of madness Parliament - were YouTube sensations; both Palin). you should aspire to. So, ask yourself, as you of them Europhobes. Dan Hannan and Nigel Finally, to make it – and here we are talking step up to the base of the greasy pole, do you feel Farage delivered speeches and soundbites per- about the big time, not about time-serving in the lucky, punk? (“Deep Vote”) fectly suited to a three minute attention span. Assemblee Nationale or getting a peachy number Life 45 Model Brunel Mintona With thanks to Jamila

The Artist

There’s a scene in Basquiat (1996), Julian 1919 crossed with New York in 1958, or films forehead) puts you in a biennale and gets you Schnabel’s brilliantly cornball biopic, where that look like ‘60s documentaries but don’t written about in frieze or Kaleidoscope. the doomed artist asks his slacker pal how long make any sense. If you haven’t been tapped by Then, keep making the same artwork over it takes to get famous. “Four years,” is the reply. a hot, youth-obsessed gallery like New York’s and over. Be the fill-in-the-blank guy/girl; Nowadays, particularly if you want the short, Team or London’s Herald Street at your MA defend your corner. Hire young, hungry assist- meteoric career, you can do it in two. First, get degree show (oops!), forget sending jpegs and ants, who’ll not only make your work but have noticed: be tall, good-looking (artworld people begging letters. Instead, move to Berlin – it’s the ideas too. (You’ll have stolen your first, fame- are, on average, 68 percent prettier than any- losing its edge, but you’ll probably discover creating idea from someone smarter but uglier.) where outside of fashion, not that all of them which low-rent enclave artists are decamp- Finally, when you feel your moment fading, are outside of fashion), and have a weird, ing to next – and hug the bar in Keyser Soze announce you’re making a feature film with your striking name (hello, Tris Vonna-Michell) and until loudmouth bragging about your radically new pals James Franco and Courtney Love. Two exotically mixed heritage. If possible, be an ex- dematerialised aesthetic strategy and/or will- years? At most. (“Gaston de Latour”) model (Matthew Barney, Rosson Crow). ingness to stand drinks for anyone who resem- Make your art comfortingly retro, yet com- bles a curator (thick square glasses or, if you’re plicatedly so, e.g. paintings that recall Paris in curatorial kingpin Hans Ulrich Obrist, Mekon 46 The profile Model Marie-Cecile at Wantedd. With thanks to Delphine de Kinder at Hotel Amigo, Pauline and Tom Bracelet H&M, necklace, ring and watch Guess.

The tabloid princess

There are two options for cheap celebrity. (This can also apply to the X Factor and Star White, Jet Black, Movida in London, Buddha First, apply for the biggest and most famous Academy). Sugar in Manchester, and so on…) anywhere reality TV show in existence – and perhaps Second, if BB isn't your bag then you might that you're bound to find a footballer, soap star the Netherlands’ most successful international want to consider getting yourself a famous or any kind of equivalent male celeb. export – Big Brother. This show, which started boyfriend. Use these clubs as hunting grounds, but out as a social experiment, is now a one-way To join the ranks of wives and girlfriends make sure sure that you're pictured leaving street to cheap fame. The scourge of 'real' celeb- (aka WAGs) you should alter your appearance them on the arm of somebody famous. Getting rities and criticised by newspaper journalists to become the epitome of fakeness – nails, a reputation as a star f**ker is a simple way to (the same hacks who use them to fill their news- hair, boobs, fake tan, everything – until you put your name and face out there for potential papers), Big Brother contestants have become become Barbie personified. Hang out in the suitors. Once you've bagged one celeb boy- a tabloid paradox. However, regardless of how VIP lounge at football stadiums, training friend, a kiss and tell when you split is a perfect they are viewed by the tabloid media, in the fields and, of course, the trendy clubs where way to get in there with the tabloids and, again, end they become famous, earn huge sums from footballers go to let their hair down and guzzle advertise your wares to other celebs. magazine deals and can easily carve full-time copious amounts of expensive champagne (“Red Top”) careers out of their time in the infamous house. (VIP Room in Paris, Funky Buddha, China men + women

Neighbourhood life and global style

Balthazar Downtown Balthazar Uptown Rue Marché aux fromages 22 Kaasmarkt Avenue Louise 294 Louizalaan 1000 Brussels 1050 Brussels + 32 (0) 2 514 23 96 + 32 (0) 2 647 77 37 48 The fashion Word Fashion Consume Photography We love

— A fine line exists between the genius and the lunatic – sometimes, don’t you just ache to break through to the other side ?

Photography Alex Salinas Styling Pholoso Selebogo Style 49

Jeff: Scarf H&M, Jacket Hugo By Hugo Boss, T-shirt Fred Perry, Belt Damir Doma, Trousers Juun J, Shoes Model’s Own

Dorien: Salmon orange jacket Dries Van Noten, Denim Jacket Kokon To Zai, Silver top Maria Francesca Pepe, Leather pants El Delgado Buil, Shirt (wrapped around leg) Anntian, Sneakers Model’s Own Jurgen: Scarves Damir Doma, Coat Peter Jensen, Blue belt Cos, T-shirt Fillipa K, Shorts Tillman Lauterbach, Shoes Model’s Own Niels: Denim shirt Levi’s, Dress Gareth Pugh, trousers Pam, Mask Guiseppe Virgone Tess: Necklace Uncommon Matters, Leather jacket Jeremy Scott, Blouse Gemma Degara, Cape blouse Martin Lamothe, Skirt Charles Anastase, Leggings American Apparel, Shoes Model’s Own Stephanie: Biarritz hat Stephen Jones, Tights Gareth Pugh, Trousers Superfine, Sweater Slow And Steady Wins The Race, Blue Cape Bruno Pieters, Shoes Model’s Own 56 The fashion Word Style 57

Photographer Alex Salinas

Photographer’s assistants Koen Verminnen and Jeff Jacobs

Stylist Pholoso Selebogo @Touch by Dominique Models

Stylist’s assistant Michael Smit

Make-up Sigrid Volders with Chanel and Bumble & Bumble

With special thanks to Ra Antwerp ra13.be Hunting and Collecting huntingandcollecting.com for lending their collections.

Peter: Top Complex Geometry, Vest Damir Doma, Scarf Damir Doma, Top shorts Band Of Outsiders, Bottom shorts Band Of Outsiders, Shoes Models’ Own

Koen: Hat Smith Esq, Top Damir Doma, Trousers Patrick Erwell  

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You CANNOT make friends with the rock stars. That's what's important.

If you're a rock journalist – first, you will never get paid much. But you will get free records from the record company. And they'll buy you drinks, you'll meet girls, they'll try to fly you places for free, Musicoffer you drugs… I know. It sounds great. But they are not your friends.

These are people who want you to write sanctimonious stories about the genius of the rock stars, and they will ruin rock and roll and strangle everything we love about it.

Lester Bangs, Almost Famous (Cameron Crowe, 2001) g 60 The music papers Disruptive Talent We love Consume Classic

Nü-Post- grindcore- psychowave- triptopia

With every new musical style comes the attempt to define its sound and find the perfect term to pigeonhole it. Whether these labels come from revered critics or geeky bloggers, no artist or band can hope to escape their constant sta-

pling. Psychobilly, epic doom, cowpunk, freak © Bruce Tsai folk, lowercase, nintendocore or pornogrind exist at the more creative end of such chris- tenings. Other labels are just plain annoying, like the obsessive slapping of the prefix nu- nu a term originally spat by critic Robert Christgau music is stupid. Chillwave made it big, taking rave, nu gaze, nu metal. And don’t even get us when describing Sonic Youth’s early material over the world in the summer of 2009, and started on the –cores. Deathcore, nerdcore, was soon applied to all pre-grunge noisy rock Exogazing (music to listen to “while looking at breakcore, slowcore, mathcore,… Yes. We get bands. Then you’ve got the inside jokes, like the stars”) is all the rage this year. But for every it. That sound will blow your ears. C86, a mix tape released by NME in 1986, genre we remember there’s a dozen more, such Derisive descriptions sometimes transcend which became a genre of its own. One appella- as grindie, skweee, folktronica, moan-wave, into full-on genres, such as Shoegaze, initially tion that is still widely dismissed by most artists crabcore, ghettotech and wonky, that were named after the posture of apathetic musicians it targets is IDM (for Intelligent Dance Music), never fortunate enough to make it onto record who just stared at their feet during gigs. Pigfuck, based on the presumption that all other dance shop classification stickers. (RW)

Beautiful losers

Forget bands that are so new they don’t even know they’ve been formed yet, how about a band so doomed you probably won’t ever hear them on record? Victims of their own era, the London based Stavin’ Chains are doing everything wrong and God bless them for it. These 19 year olds barely rehearse, resent the cybersphere, have a knack of attracting physi- cal violence and cause havoc wherever they go. Sonically somewhere between no wave, experi- mental and industrial music, they are notable for captivatingly chaotic shows that usually see

half the crowd run away within the first three © Bruce Tsai minutes. “I like to think of us as a giant sieve”; quips James, the sarcastic front man and saxo- phonist. His tendency to engage with a jaded and impassive audience by throwing himself do not fail as entertainment, and behind the fan page, writing the following: “You win.” Oh aggressively into the public probably doesn’t tension and cacophony lies a complex yet raw dear, how long until we start reading about help, but he insists it’s not a staged gimmick. structure, undeniable passion and the inspiring what they had for dinner on Twitter? (RW) “It’s simply the expression of sheer frustration rage of youth. It may not be the wheel but it’s a because no one is listening. I guess that’s the fascinating experience we can only recommend. stavinchains.tk way people have been conditioned these days. But wait, could compromise be in the air? As myspace.com/stavinchains They see music as entertainment.” That said, we go to press, the band’s MySpace has been Stavin’ Chains energetic live gigs certainly updated and they just created their Facebook the Music g 61 © la villa hermosa

the 2007 launch of the new scent surely didn’t Marion Cotillard, yet they do not appear in its Bands and hurt in terms of exposure and popularity. promotional video clip. The Glaswegian band’s A while later, a surprisingly similar looking involvement with that particular French house version of Jon Fratelli, although younger and is not that surprising considering its bond with brands prettier, could be seen in The Beat for Men’s Slimane, the former creative director of Dior campaign. 20-year-old George Craig had been Homme. He confessed Alex Kapranos figures Music and fashion have always gone hand in featured in Burberry’s previous and current amongst his favourite persons to dress, and for a hand but the relationship between these two ads, and is now the brand’s new it-boy. He’s while all of his models looked like clones of the worlds has been tightly reinforced these past walked the show in Milan, recorded a voice- Franz Ferdinand front man, channelling both years. Blame it on Hedi Slimane and his obses- over segment for the TV clip, even picked up the band and the brand’s angular, sharp and sion with the British indie scene that emerged the Menswear trophy on behalf of Burberry’s skinny aesthetics. Hilfiger Denim teamed with during the noughties or on the decline of the creative chief officer Christopher Bailey at the hipster darlings The Virgins in an attempt to record industry, various partnerships and syn- 2008 British Fashion Awards. Guess what… reinforce its New York street cred, shooting the ergies are flourishing everywhere. Bands turn He’s got his own band, called One Night Only. band “playing” in front of the Brooklyn Bridge to fashion for lucrative deals and brands view Bailey found them online and apparently really for last years Spring campaign. The same brand these emerging artists as a new way of attracting liked George’s look. Their music is heavily had Mark Ronson, then a young rising DJ in young customers and revamping their image. featured on Burberry’s website and they per- the Big Apple, posing in a recording studio for Burberry suffered a serious brand image down- formed at the Burberry day extravaganza held one of their ads a decade ago. He can now be fall in the nineties, but pulled itself back up in New York last year. Whether in the music seen playing his guitar and cuddling his chérie thanks to Christopher Bailey’s arrival. Scoring industry or modelling business, this simple kid Joséphine de la Baume in black and white shots top British names alongside hot new talent and from north Yorkshire is now worth solid gold. for the latest Zadig & Voltaire campaign. The heavily drawing from the nation’s promising The band’s endorsement may be cringe-worthy Parisian brand has always positioned itself at musical scene for its advertising campaigns was (they are now practically a walking billboard the crossroads of fashion and music. Now it has an instant success and has become a trademark. for the brand) but it has offered them the kind launched it’s own music label, set to promote The clip for their new perfume, aptly named of publicity their record label never could. young artists. How long until the rest of the The Beat, had Agyness Deyn dancing and Collaborations and the exploitation of fashion land jumps on that bandwagon? (RW) jerking to “Got Ma Nuts From A Hippy” by the band’s image can take various other forms. the Fratellis. The Scottish band had managed Franz Ferdinand recently recorded an exclu-  Visit thewordmagazine.be/dribbles/ pretty well so far, but performing in front of the sive song for the latest campaign of Dior’s bandsandbrands for our pick of best fashion world’s crème de la crème in London at Lady Rouge bag, with vocals from current face bands and brands pairings. 62 The music papers © Ulrike Biets

scene straight out of university. With him, he to balance these dichotomies and to create Mr Incongruity brought his violin, his two decades of classi- from them such solid tracks is just as fascinat- cal training, and a degree in composition. He ing and at times nerve-racking as his techni- played in several bands, and quickly became cal endeavors. He screams, he whispers. His socks it to us the go-to-guy for string arrangements among violin shrieks, squeaks, and cries. Listening to Eastern Canadian musicians. Owen eventual- his work, you find yourself there with him, bal- If you close your eyes while listening to Owen ly began composing for, and touring with, The ancing somewhere between the traditional and Pallet’s music, you are somewhere else. It’s not Arcade Fire. And just as they rose to interna- the zany, often honored to be experiencing the the kind of pop music that reminds listeners of tional repute, so did Owen. work of such an unconventional and unprec- the present time or place. You might be soaring He has done so humbly, of course. “My first edented artist. above medieval countryside, racing through album, I made for my boyfriend. The second In 2005, Carl Wilson wrote an article an anarchistic 23rd century city, or escaping for my friends in Toronto and for myself.” about Owen for the The New York Times the lethal claws of a cockatrice. As are his Only with Heartland has a sense of univer- entitled “The World’s Most Popular Gay recorded tracks, Owen’s performances are sality taken form; it is the first that Owen has Postmodern Harpsichord Player.” While he enchanting. With a loop pedal, he records and made for people outside his circle of comfort, is still popular, gay, postmodern and a player layers live violin strings, creating and singing for a grand public. “It is music for strangers,” of the harpsichord, Owen’s notoriety is no along with his one-man orchestra. The crowd for all types of people, in all types of places, longer niche-dependant. But, as the quantity is wooed. And if, for just a moment, you are for “sailors in Turkey.” Although he assured us of his completed work augments, the scope of able to remove yourself from the otherworldly that there is no song written particularly for his his fame expands and he is compelled to recon- trance in which his music places you, you might Turkish sailor, this illustrates an awareness of sider his motivation (and his name), it is hard to remark upon something else: Owen Pallett his ever-expanding broadcast. imagine the essence of Owen Pallett changing. (pictured above) performs in his socks. There are two main ingredients in the Maybe he’ll sell out a stadium, but he’ll still be Until recently, Owen recorded as Final genius of Owen’s work. The first—his musical playing in his socks. (TWP) Fantasy (yes, like the video game). Heightened talent—is immediately clear, either live or on legal liability, however, is one of fame’s nega- his records. The second is his incongruity. The myspace.com/owenpallettmusic tive attributes, and so he released his newest many contrasts within his creation are what album, Heartland, under his real name. He set him apart: there is the sentimental and the hails from Toronto, where eight years ago he humorous, the classical and the popular, the stepped into its vibrant independent music acoustic and the electronic. And his ability the Music g 63 © Melika Ngombe

But how does one become a conductor? Is To conduct and entertain there a graduate course in wand-wielding wizard- ry? Is it a calling, or a talent anyone can pick up? “Bernstein used to say that you are born a con- Symphony orchestra conductors occupy some- makes him the perfect contender to ensure his ductor,” says Tabachnik somewhat approvingly, what of an intriguing place in the collective philharmonic remains relevant with today’s although the reality of climbing the echelons to psyche of the uninitiated. Seen as the tower- short attention spanned audiences. To somewhat being a conductor is a far less abstract affair. You ing and commandeering figures passionately paraphrase one of our current fetish sentences, first go to the conservatory, learning an instru- gesticulating to a loyal band of string, brass, Tabachnik’s heart is in the past, his feet in the ment (Tabachnik took up the piano) then go to woodwind and percussion followers, conduc- now and his mind firmly geared to the future. master classes with a conductor (Tabachnik did tors (more so than the superstar soloists they “We have to play normal repertoire (similar three years with French conductor and composer often invite) have come to embody contem- to the Cinematek playing the classics), we have Pierre Boulez, going on to become his assistant). porary music in all its complexity: stern, cer- to play new creations or commissions and we “You cannot simply decide to be a conductor,” ebral and detached. Steeped in its own world have to initiate collaborations (pairing, for he states, affirming that “to communicate sound of high-cultured righteousness, an orchestra’s example, a dance company together with the through gesture is a special gift.” Indeed it is… de-facto ambassador, its conductor, is often orchestra),” says Tabachnik when asked how as is the art of understanding what the heck is perceived as the ultimate intellectual, prefer- a year’s program is devised. Although a single happening on that front pedestal. How does the ring, it is assumed, solo sessions in his study theme might be used to underpin an entire sea- uninitiated take his first concert in then? “You endlessly listening to repeats of Beethoven’s 5th son’s program and helps lend it some consisten- need to think broadly in terms of civilization, Symphony, rather than having to explain his art cy, he is deeply conscious of the need to mix the and the specificities of ours. People have to come and talent to a bunch of novices like us. old, the new and the original: “Every season, we to our concerts with a good knowledge of music, So it came as a little surprise to find that have to find a way to reinvent ourselves and raise and an urge to be inspired.” (NL) Michel Tabachnik (pictured above), charismatic the level of excitement. Local competition being conductor and musical director of the Brussels so fierce (there is at least one, if not two, concerts brusselsphilharmonic.be Philharmonic – het Vlaams Radio Orkest, every night), we need quality, imagination and didn’t exactly fit the bill as far as conductors go. an interesting selection of guest artists to attract Check our ‘What we’re giving away’ Yes, he is fierce-looking, intense and stern in the public.” So the conductor doesn’t merely section on page 18 for your chance to win the same manner a high court judge might be, conduct then. He envisions, invites, calculates, 10 Brussels Philharmonic – het Vlaams although his absorbing and firing personality champions, programs and educates too. Radio Orkest recordings. 64 The bandwave Cuture We love Underground Play

The last few outlaws ride the waves

— They provided the soundtrack to our teenage years and introduced us to sounds overlooked by the mainstream, but is there still a role for pirate radio stations in the podcast era ?

Writer Marcus Barnes Photography Charlotte May Wales & Bertus Gerssen

01. the Music g 65

In 1994 we fell in love with a new sound that we had never heard before, it was Jungle music and we couldn't get enough. After hearing a few tunes on the TV we were hooked and we needed to hear more ... it was almost instinctive when we turned the radio on and searched the FM band for some more Jungle. And we found it straight away. At the time the two biggest stations were Rush FM and Kool FM - we would have arguments at school about which was the best station. Without those stations we never would have known about all the dif- ferent tunes, DJs, MCs and producers of that era - they opened our eyes up to a whole new world. In 2010 some of these stations are still on the airwaves, but what does the future hold with the likes of live streaming on the internet, podcasts and advances in technology that now allow almost anyone with a computer to be a DJ/broadcaster ?

ˆ The whole thing was very much a closed market, a specialised area where being in the know was pretty much the only way to have access to the scene

ˇ In the mid to late 80s, the burgeoning house music scene was growing fast and its exponents needed an outlet to play their new music - main- stream stations weren't providing it, and so, inspired by the famous Radio Caroline, they set about finding a way to set up their own stations and play what they wanted to hear. Preceeded

by stations like Transmission One, based in © Charlotte May Wales Ladbroke Grove, which played early Hip-Hop 02. (the real, early UK stuff), these DJs and MCs took inspiration from a radio station on a boat and took to the rooftops of London's tower DJ Chef has been playing on the station for DJ Chef explained that, in this day and blocks to get their music out there to the follow- the last few years, getting his big break in 2004, age, it's possible for anyone to become a DJ ers. Accused of being funded by drug money, when he appeared in a guest slot. The East and, thanks to the Internet, anyone can broad- blamed for interfering with the radio frequen- Londoner sees a direct link between the early cast their music to a global audience without cies of the emergency services ...and of course 'soundboys', the owners of reggae soundsys- much effort. But, in the early days of pirate in for playing what was referred to as 'devil music' tems, and the evolution of illegal broadcasters. London you had to know somebody who was by some, the early pioneers of pirate radio faced With a distinct lack of underground Caribbean already involved in the scene to even be able to a huge struggle to establish themselves. music being played on commercial stations, get behind a set of decks. The technology was Kool FM is considered to be THE premier Chef explains that the soundboys needed a very hard to come by and expensive - Chef was pirate radio station. Broadcasting for over 18 way to play the music they wanted to hear, and only able to have access to a pair of Technics years, they have not only established themselves so the legendary Station FM was born. One of 1210s because he had a friend who was the first as London's leading pirate station, with a name the very early pirates, Station played host to a in the area to pick some up. The whole thing that is now known all over the globe but they variety of Caribbean music -Roots - that was a was very much a closed market, a specialised have also helped to establish some of the Jungle/ far cry from the pop-style reggae that was being area where being in the know was pretty much Drum 'n' Bass scene's best known DJs and MCs. played on the mainstream stations. the only way to have access to the scene. 66 The bandwave

To be able to get onto a pirate radio station took a hell of a lot of leg work, not just meeting people but working hard to establish your name, to let people know you could play a credible set, you had the skills and knowledge to be able to hold your own on one of the top stations. All this helped to create a strong, thriving move- ment - a close family of broadcasters, DJs, MCs, producers, promoters and a highly appreciative, dedicated audience. If you were a fan of Jungle, Hardcore, Acid House, Techno, Rave and eve- rything else in between then the only way to get your fix of what was happening within these underground music genres was to tune into a pirate station. Kool FM and Rush FM were initial rivals however, proving just how close the community was, they broadcast from the same tower block, in rooms next to each other.

ˆ The demand to play in pirate radio is still there, and will not dissipate until there is a legitimate replacement for it

03. ˇ

Chef tells us that Kool's godfather, the legen- dary Eastman, says the station is all about com- munity – built up over nearly two decades on the airwaves. It's the 'Underground Heartbeat' of the scene and always will be. So much so, that he says if Kool FM was offered a legal licence, he would accept it, but still maintain a pirate separately. Citing Kiss FM as a prime example of a pirate that has gone legal and been watered down, Chef sees the difficulty of maintain- ing a legal station (financial costs, advertising, bowing down to major labels and so on) as det- rimental to the station's original ethos. Stations like Kool FM and Rinse FM have helped some of their scenes' biggest stars on the road to success DJ Brockie, MC Dett, Ragga Twins, Navigator, Mampi Swift, Trace, Ryme Time, Dizzee Rascal, Wiley, Tinchy Stryder, Tinie Tempah and many others first found fame through pirate radio and are now at the top of their game. Creating the foundation of a music community that is so particular to illegal radio in the UK. Chef himself not only DJs in clubs and on radio, but he also works with young people in Newham, East London to teach DJ skills and pro- ducing. He recently established a radio station at the Newham Academy, so a new generation of people are gathering the skills to be able to broadcast. 04. the Music g 67

05. 68 The bandwave

This is all done with the aid of UStream, a relatively new internet concept which allows users to broadcast live audio and video from their PC, Mac or iPhone. And this is where it gets interesting; the website is almost like a mul- timedia version of Twitter - you sign up and you can deliver a live DJ set to your followers from your bedroom, or even from the club you're playing at. Which Chef often does. Not only that, but you can connect to other social net- working sites, like Facebook, Bebo, Myspace and Twitter, and update your status to tell all of your friends/acquaintances that you're broad- casting. On top of this, every live stream can be archived and watched over and over by the people who subscribe to your channel.

ˆ … a DJ from Austria who came to London … found some pirate stations … and was so inspired he went back home, bought some equipment and set up his own station in the 06. mountains …

ˇ If anything signals a move away from youngsters can dip into whatever they want, - found some pirate stations during his time here pirate and into a whole new world of individ- try it for a while and, if they don't like it, move and was so inspired he went back home, bought ual broadcast via the internet, then UStream on to the next thing. Grime music being a prime some equipment and set up his own station in appears to be the beginning of something new example - the genre exploded in the early 2000s, the mountains, broadcasting tapes he’d made. and exciting, if utilised in the right way. Still everyone was an MC or a DJ and kids were pro- France once had a large pirate presence, relatively new and untapped, UStream offers ducing music on their Playstations. It created a with socialist-run stations running for several the kind of possibilities that were unheard few stars, some of whom are still around today, decades before they were legalised. Most Pirate of just five or 10 years ago. Imagine taking a but just as quickly as it appeared and all the free radio stations in The Netherlands are based in mobile phone with you to a club, and being space on the FM dial was full of Grime stations, the countryside and play a kind of Dutch folk able to broadcast your entire set via that phone it dropped off. The youngsters becoming bored music that has a niche audience; although rural, ... and of course, away from the live club aspect, of it, or finding something else to do. rather than urban, just as in London, these sta- it offers the chance to be able to DJ from your Chef believes pirate radio will continue tions are born out of a need to play music that bedroom and broadcast across the globe. to exist, despite the speed at which technology the mainstream just doesn’t cater for. But Chef reminds us that the established is growing and allowing anyone to become a Pirate radio station Radio Tonka provides stations will still hold a certain resonance and broadcaster. It has been passed down through political commentary and has a roster of dedi- respect, and up-and-coming DJs will yearn generations, a London culture which has never cated and loyal DJs, playing a varied mix of Jazz, to play for them. Even now he gets multiple really translated to other cities or countries Punk, 80s New Wave, Flamenco, and Hip Hop. requests from DJs for a chance to play on Kool around the world, thanks to London’s very Founded15 years ago, Tonka initially broad- FM because it offers the kind of prestige that special mix of migrants and indigenous people. cast every night between midnight and four am. money and new technology just can't buy. The A city that has created Jungle/Drum ’n’ Bass, They started out in various places including the demand to play on pirate radio is still there, Dubstep and is unrivalled in its diehard men- Hague, but moved into a more legal realm five and will not dissipate until there is a legitimate tality towards its specific cultural movements. years ago. They are now broadcasting on the replacement for it. Across the water, pirate radio may not have wavelength of another local (funded) radiosta- On top of this, having so much at the tip of had the impact that it did in London, but it has tion, Denhaag FM, six days a week. your fingers creates a kind of laziness, an apathy still had its role to play. Chef mentioned a bril- Back in London, the Flex FM Team were that didn’t exist when technology was harder liant story about a DJ from Austria who came also on hand to fill us in on London's pirate to come by. With so much at their disposal, to London at the height of the Jungle explosion scene, they see pirates on the FM frequency the Music g 69

07. 08.

as provoking a kind of nostalgia amongst its the DTI, getting your aerial up, finding a good 01. Radio Tonka, Den Haag listeners - that familiar ’snap, crackle and pop’ location or pulling up to a car that's actually instills a kind of warm feeling unlike the syn- tuned into their station is all part of the excite- 02. Flex Radio DJs, London thetic sounds of a live internet stream. Losing ment of pirate radio. No amount of technology 03. Barricaded door, Radio Patapoe, reception is all part of the fun. can replace that. Amsterdam Over the last few years the rave scene has So, will the Internet take over? Pirates are seem something of a comeback, with illegal already on the wane, but as long as there is an 04. Radio Tonka, Den Haag warehouse parties way out in Essex becoming active audience and a willing amount of par- 05. Casper Beaumont an almost regular occurance, and of course, ticipants, illegal FM stations will always be in Radio Tonka, Den Haag with this, plenty of old school radio listeners existence. The internet has its plus points and have got back into it, picking up where they left no doubt offers a whole new world of possibili- 06. Radio Tonka, Den Haag off and searching the FM band for a bit of old ties, but the grassroots and the foundations will, 07. Deva, Radio Patapoe, Hardcore or Jungle. Where else can you find it hopefully, always be in the pirate movement. Amsterdam but pirate radio? 08. Deva and Krul, Radio Patapoe,

The team behind Flex FM believe that the  Visit thewordmagazine.be/dribbles/ Amsterdam airwaves should not be owned, Government thelastfewoutlawsridethewaves for your fix control oppresses the freedom of music - legal of pirate radio dials. stations have very little room to really play what they want at any time of the day. Pirates allow artists who may be overlooked by the mainstream to get their music out to the people who matter. There’s an almost diehard mentality amongst the Flex FM Team, an acknowledge- ment that their scene needs to continue to stay alive - the thrill of the chase comes into it too. Working undercover to evade capture from 70 The context Disruptive Water cooler Underground

Bad vibrations Let the bodies hit the floor According to Pieslak, metal’s appeal functions on a number of levels. Its fanbase in America corresponds to a significant social demograph- — Music has the ability to move us emotionally ic that the army recruits from – young white working and lower middle class males. Because and effect us physically, to boost spirits and of its use in the entertainment industry, it has associations with power, excitement and chaotic make a crowd move as one – but this power force. He also analyses the timbre and rhythms of some of the tracks most popular with the sol- can have unforeseen, and even unpleasant diers, and notes that they have a literally warlike sound. Examining the structure of Slayer’s Angel consequences. of Death he notes; “because these rhythms are articulated in ways that resemble gunfire, sol- diers may feel empowered by the music that, for Illustrations Marcel Ceuppens Writer Hettie Judah them, evokes the sounds of combat.” The empowerment experienced by soldiers while listening to heavy metal and rap music has also been turned outward, transforming War is heavy metal when you needed to be aggressive.” the aggressive power of the music into a literal While Gittoes’ documentary looks at music weapon. This took place notably at Fallujah George Gittoes’ documentary Soundtrack to as a form of escapism and self-expression, Pieslak in 2004, when military strategy for retaking War explores the profound integration of music goes further in exploring the root of certain control of the city involved bolting speakers into the daily lives of Americans serving in forms of music’s association with violence and onto the outside of the Humvees’ gun turrets and Iraq. The iPod has allowed music to become warfare. He traces, in particular, the way that pounding out loud, relentless music to disorien- omnipresent, and servicemen and women have heavy metal became first the genre of choice for tate and exhaust the Iraqis as the soldiers sur- become ingenious in wiring up tanks and other action sequences in movies, then in video games rounded the city. Since the music was being used vehicles to speaker systems that play music – (“It’s just great music to game to. Especially if as aggressive noise, the choice of the tracks used from their MP3 players. Gittoes’ interviewees you’re pounding someone’s flesh in or crashing was left up to the soldiers on the ground and explained how they used metal and rap music someone’s car, nothing beats heavy metal,” notes included AC/DC, Eminem and Guns n’Roses. to psych themselves up to enter an environment Steve Schnur, of EA Worldwide video games), “Soldiers experiences have shown the in which - they felt - it was more than likely eventually becoming the soundtrack of choice to transformative effect of music in combat prepa- someone was going to try to kill them. American army recruitment ads. ration, and timbre has the power to bolster con- Many of Gittoes interviewees also com- Music used in this way allows the listener fidence and motivate listeners outside of them- posed and performed music while in Iraq, as a to psych him or herself into a ‘role’ – in creat- selves.” Pieslak concludes. “Paradoxically, the form of catharsis or self-expression. Servicemen ing a soundtrack to actual action it feeds into sound can irritate, frustrate, and psychologi- performing freestyle for the camera noted wryly cally break people down. It appears that metal, that the ‘tough guy’ street scenarios and gunplay and to a slightly lesser degree rap, have the described in commercial rap music were nothing ˆ dubious distinction of being capable of both compared to the horror of their own experiences psychological effects,” of combat. One young soldier explained that he Bolting speakers onto the had begun composing gore metal songs shortly after having to remove the badly damaged body outside of the Humvees’ Listen for new weapons of a friend from a vehicle that had gone over an gun turrets and pounding IED. While they distinguished between the In Sonic Warfare, Steve Goodman describes ‘fantasy’ aspect of the music they listened to, out loud, relentless music how a related strategy was used in the so called and the hard reality of their service experience, to disorientate and exhaust Urban Funk Campaign in the early 1970s during the power of the music seemed, if anything, the Vietnam war, using helicopter mounted enhanced by its proximity to actual violence. the Iraqis devices known as sound curdler systems. The Complementary ground is covered by musi- curdler emitted high-decibel sound, rather than cologist Jonathan Pieslak in his recent book music specifically, and was also used in a strate- Sound Targets, for which he interviewed army ˇ gy called Wandering Soul in which the voices of personnel about their relationship with music. the fantasy persona, allowing both a sense of ‘ghosts’ of Vietnamese ancestors were broadcast Sergeant First Class C J Grisham explains the personal power and an edge of unreality. The above the treetops at night, to psychologically transforming power that music had on him: power of fantasy can become very specific. disconcerting effect. “War is so ugly and disgusting…. It’s an inhuman C J Grisham describes blasting Wagner’s Ride Goodman also suggests that the British thing. It’s unnatural for people to kill people. It’s of the Valkyries from his truck during one attack Ministry of Defence used “a device called the something that no one should ever have to do, in Baghdad, specifically evoking the famous Squawk Box… during the troubles in Northern unfortunately someone does. And we happen helicopter attack from Apocalypse Now to Ireland for crowd control.” The box, mounted on to be that someone sometimes. And so listening simultaneously psych up his own soldiers and a Land Rover, would produce ultrasonic frequen- to music would artificially make you aggressive intimidate the Iraqi forces. cies that when combined were “intolerable to the the Music g 71

human ear, producing giddiness, nausea, or faint- ing or merely a “spooky” psychological effect.” Goodman (better known as Dubstep artist Kode9) assumes a direct link between sound as a form of entertainment and sound as a form of oppression, regularly making reference to the “military entertainment complex”, but away from the deep theory and philosophy of academia, the connection between the two seems more like furiously dark irony than sinister cahoots.

Lost in music

While working on their album Heligoland, Massive Attack approached a number of artists whose work they admired to create short films to accompany an album track of their choice. Among these were Oliver Chanarin and Adam Broomberg whose photographic work over the last decade has often examined the complex position of the photographer in depicting human suffering. Having recently completed projects in both Iraq and Afghanistan, the duo initially pro- posed using the track Saturday Come Slow for a film about US Drones (remotely piloted planes). Massive Attack put them in touch with the human rights charity Reprieve that is cur- rently running a campaign called ZeroDB to end the use of music in torture. The CIA run facilities in Iraq, Afghanistan, Morocco and at Guantanamo Bay in Cuba use extremely loud music to break down detainees. Those who have been through it explain that the relentless barrage has horrific psychological effects – they literally felt that they were losing their sanity. “Massive Attack are very committed to ending capital punishment,” explains Ollie. “They started talking to us about the use of music in torture, they introduced us to Ruhal shows Sesame Street and Barney. Ollie explains Sound Targets: American Soldiers and it went from there.” Ruhal Ahmed is a that Clive Stafford Smith, the founder of and Music in the Iraq War (2009) former Guantanamo Bay detainee who was Reprieve was unable to get the American mili- by Jonathan Pieslak submitted to interrogation techniques using tary to admit to using music in torture so filed Indiana University Press high volume music – in the film Saturday a copyright infringement lawsuit to make them Come Slow he describes being short-shackled pay for the use of Eminem. Sonic Warfare: Sound, Affect and and blasted with cold air for up to two and a The Cambridge University professor the Ecology of Fear (2010) half days at a stretch with the constant sound of interviewed in Saturday Come Slow explains by Steve Goodman heavy metal music being interspersed with epi- that the nature of the music used in torture is MIT Press sodes of physical violence and intimidation. less a factor than the volume and quality of the Whereas metal had been used by the US sound – distortion from cheap speakers used at Soundtrack to War (2007) soldiers for its supposed power as intolerable - top volume was likely to be more of an irritant by director George Gittoes even diabolical – foreign music, this is clearly than the music itself, and continued exposure Revelation Films not the root of the devastating effect that it to noise at high volumes can cause permanent had in this instance. “Ruhal is an English kid; damage to the ear. reprieve.org that music wasn’t a cultural barrage,” explains The film specifically focuses on the effects of zerodb.org Ollie. “It was familiar – eventually that music sound and vibration on the human ear, but Ollie massiveattack.com becomes something completely abstracted. still finds it hard to divorce the notion of music choppedliver.info (Olivier Chanarin Tracks used in this kind of interroga- as noise from music as something created and and Adam Broomberg) tion have included music by Aerosmith, Rage expressive. “Music is something that we all asso- Against the Machine, AC/DC, Metallica, ciate with joy or pleasure,” he explains. “That Eminem, Nine Inch Nails, Britney Spears, transformation is so horrifying – that the beau- Drowning Pool and even tunes from childrens’ tiful thing becomes something intolerable.” 72 The special showstoppers Consume We love Lifestyle Fetish

At the back of the bus

— The nomadic lifestyle of the band on the summer festival circuit is both a blessing and a curse. While such movement adds exponentially to both industry cred and the rock ‘n’ roll allure, the effects on both sanity and hygiene can be much less desirable. Whether struck by stress, boredom, the sense of imprisonment, or a severe and unexpected upset stomach (after all, fast bands sometimes need fast food), our music special showstoppers will help to ease tour bus pain.

Photography Ulrike Biets

Thanks to Rolo Tomassi for letting The Word invade the little free time and space they had as they rolled on through Europe. myspace.com/rolotomassi the Music g 73

01. Production, pocket-sized

The ever-growing portability of music production and performance is clear. Many musicians--especially DJ’s--can throw the majority of what they’ll need for an upcom- ing show in a bag, jump on an Easyjet flight from Berlin to wherever, and entertain eager listeners by the hundreds. The Play Station Portable—or PSP—helped to revolutionise portable entertainment, combining into one tiny object the services previously offered by both gameboys and home entertainment systems. And now, PSP and Rockstar games (and hip-hop producer Timbaland) have united to create the new program Beaterator. It is not just a video game, but a musical tool, a means to produce tracks electronically, pro- fessionally and portably. It’s a pocket studio.

Sony PSP (¤ 169,99) sonycenter.be Beaterator (¤ 12) rockstargames.com/beaterator

02. Hard-as

Berlin-based Uslu Airlines’ nail varnish appeals to us on so many levels – every shade is named for an airport code – LAS (Las Vegas, USA) is a chunky blue glitter, WWI (WoodieWoodie, Australia) is cerise, while KNO (Knokke, Belgium) is appropriately old gold – the colours are ace, and they produce special varnish for DJs. So far they’ve col- laborated with Headman (ZRH, pale blue), Ed Banger (PSG, lime green), Rollerboys (JMK, lilac) and Fetisch (THF, metallic steel – named in loving memory of Berlin’s Tempelhof). It seems almost a waste to lavish such care on fingers in an era when they’re more likely to be tapping the keys of their computers during a set than touching actual vinyl, but we must admit that we’re dead jealous.

USLU Airlines nailvarnish, (¤ 21) available at Princess Blue (Antwerp) and Colette (Paris). usluairlines.com 74 The special showstoppers

03. You were saying ?

It seems ironic that a career in music can do such damage to the very organ that allows you to hear, but take it from us – the downside to heavy gigging in your 20s is damaged hearing in your 30s. Made-to-measure earplugs can cut out ambient noise when you listen to your iPod, or let you sleep on the tourbus. They block hazardous noise, but allow you enough hearing to have a conversation, and are (appar- ently) comfortable enough to wear all the time. Molded from rapid-setting silicone, the earplugs are produced and tested in just one 20 minute session, ensuring that your ears don’t go the way of Pete Townsend’s. Hello? Hello!

Sonomax bespoke headphones (¤ 95+VAT) including fitting and testing. astbelgium.be

04. Freak Out Requiem (I-IV)

There’s pretty much nothing that we can say about Krautrock that wouldn’t get some nit picking obsessive chasing after us with an arm-length list of corrections (the suggestion that Krautrock attracts nit-picking obsessives is probably enough to get the antagonistic ball rolling). So we’ll keep it brief. This is a book about late 1960s-70s West German experi- mental music, coming out of the commune movement, influenced by radical electronic composer Stockhausen, free jazz and general futuristic craziness. Not a genre so much as a diverse movement (the British press came up with the Krautrock tag), championed in the UK by DJ John Peel. Proponents may or may not include Faust, Can, Amon Düül I, Popol Vuh and Neu!. This looks at Kraturock’s roots and influence, with great visuals and contributions from muso bods including that unbelievably cool chick from Add (N to (X)), which, frankly, does it for us.

Krautrock, Cosmic Rock and Its Legacy (2009) by Ed Nikolaos Kotsopoulos – Black Dog Publishing the Music g 75

05. Teen dream hygiene

The sanitary fixtures of the summer festival circuit are enough to reduce the toughest of bands to squeaking hysteria – and frankly, who among us hasn’t been psychologically scarred by the sight of mountains of ick rising above the level of the toilet seats, and the total absence of loo paper and washing facilities? No tour bus should be without ample supplies of bog roll, and a stack of Imodium to make sure that you don’t cut through your supplies too fast. Lack of washing facilities can (kind of, just) be made up for with wetwipes and antibacterial wash – tourbus etiquette also demands we mention that your FEET also need to be washed. And your socks changed. No, really. They do.

Wetwipes, handgel, lavatory paper and Imodium available in all good pharmacies.

06. We don’t recommend doing this

As every classy barkeeper knows, the correct vessel in which to serve a Vodka Red Bull is a disposable plastic glass. No straw, no ice, no umbrella. Classy barkeepers, to be honest, are pretty snotty about Vodka Red Bull – usually it’s easier to purchase to the two fluids separately then mix them yourself – but we’ve discovered that it does have a name (‘Birch’, apparently, although ‘Heart Attack’ was cited as an alterna- tive), which makes it a proper cocktail, no? Definitely not big, or cool, or clever. But for the purposes of documentary accuracy, we felt compelled to include it in our tourbus lineup.

Absolut Vodka and Red Bull, both available in nightshops across Europe. Prices may vary.

 Visit thewordmagazine.be/dribbles/ theshelf for more tour bus antics and products purchase links.

See page 94 for full product information. 76 The moment Disruptive Water cooler Talent

Eureka !

— We always like to imagine that brilliant ideas will come to us in a flash of inspiration – like the little lightbulb that you see in kids’ cartoons – and it seems to be true for a lot of inventive designers that bright ideas do just come to them. Of course, what follows is a whole lot of slog to turn the bright ideas into reality. We talk to three bright sparks about what lights their bulb, and what comes after.

Writer Hettie Judah Photography Emanuele Marcuccio Design 77

Sleigh of hand: otherwise it doesn’t fulfil me. I’m not that The real breakthrough moment for me is Paul Cocksedge scared about the research not leading to when an idea begins to make sense completely anything; all the impulsive experiments I do – certain things need to happen in an object Paul Cocksedge’s designs provoke a double always make sense eventually in a project. for me. It’s not too stuffy or specialist – I like take – from the vase that turns into a lamp as ideas that can be enjoyed by people who you place a cut flower into it, to rain repel- aren’t design people. When I show something ling orbs to hang over a footbridge – his work ˆ to my mum it’s important to me that she enjoys injects the spice of magic into the everyday. it on an impulsive level. The young British designer has an omnivorous When I show something to There’s always an instinct to go one step approach to the world around him – he reckons too far with things – but things don’t need to that he takes around 1,000 photos a month on my mum it’s important to be that big, you filter it down. With the skin his iPhone of things that inspire or intrigue me that she enjoys it on an light, it was always about creating the most him. When we met up in Milan, he showed us a minimal opening possible, but the object picture of a stream of light that he took at three impulsive level started getting out of control – it was never am that morning which shows a beam of light meant to light up a room – I love that moment turned into a kind of tornado by a metal grille. when an object lets you know what to do. “Sometimes I’ll just see something, and ˇ I don’t want to be ‘in’ the work too much that will be the beginning,” he explains. “It I have a space set up for that – there – to have a Paul Cocksedge style – because can get quite tiring. Other projects I do are are tools and electricity and I can get things that will date. You can do anything, but it’s more research led – I love research. I’m not started there. If I need to pull in more special- not about that, it’s about doing something that interested in what it will become – I rarely ised equipment, it’s all part of the process. For deserves to exist.” think about the final objects. It makes my the rain repeller, for example we had to get a process a lot longer than other people’s, but bigger electrostatic generator in. paulcocksedge.co.uk 78 The moment

Music of chance: the metallic spirals that form the shade turn not about the shape of the light. Bertjan Pot gently under the heat of the halogen bulbs. Developing a design for me is normally “This lamp was originally made for a just a chain reaction of happy moments and Bertjan Pot’s designs have a playfulness restaurant. I was asked to do a light for a res- sad moments, but there is usually a time when that belies the meticulous research that goes taurant that was meant to be getting its third you think you’re onto something. It’s always a into their formation. A true perfectionist, Michelin star. It would have been the first lot of things coming together that grows into who prefers his work to speak for itself – he restaurant with 3 Michelin stars and no table something. refuses to have his image used to promote his linen: you can’t hang a chandelier in a place Every project has so much research work and is dogmatic about factual accuracy like that. In the old days a chandelier used to and leads to new products – I’m still a small – Bertjan is never the less open to happy be candles floating over a table in a metal ring studio, I don’t have to support a lot of assist- accidents in his design work. His Random – the glass beads sparkled and allowed you to ants, I know that this is the best way for me to Light – a best seller for the Dutch producer use less candles, so I thought I should create make products – if one sells better it allows Moooi – was originally made by hand in something sparkling for a restaurant where me to work for the next year. the Philippines. When Moooi decided that you don’t know how to start a conversation or After having an idea you then have to the transportation costs were prohibitive what to look at. solve problems – the beauty of the idea is and created a machine to produce it in the They’re going to ban halogens – but simple: and it stays nice as the long as the Netherlands, it was initially impossible to they’re the only full spectrum light that you research gives more joy and more beauty to program it to produce random patterns – this can get – I wanted to use the heat of the halo- the idea. During the development process you led to a new version – the Non Random Light gens to create extra beauty – the lightbulb get more and more failures. My studio is very – being produced alongside the old version. heating up makes the air circulate. I thought it big and filled with failures – I just hardly ever This year he presented a seamless, would be nice to create something that wasn’t call them failures, they’re experiments.” felt-covered chair for Established & Sons defined by an outline – something moving and a monumental lamp for Moooi in which would fit into that – it’s about the light itself, bertjanpot.nl Design 79

Through the eyes of a child: sheet of paper and the idea of creating an inside add different layers on an object – I don’t Matali Crasset and an outside. You take out all the superfi- want to create archetypes, I prefer new cial elements – there is an aesthetic aspect, typologies and new ways of doing things – Matali Crasset’s vision normally addresses but it’s made with nothing. I like this idea of to have different layers of significance and a whole life scenario – readdressing living clean shapes – it’s a shape that everybody can bring them together. practices and norms through the creation of a understand – everyone does this kind of fold. This uses minimal materials and simple total habitat, rather than individual objects. There’s a double aspect to the object – I always techniques – it’s low tech, not like stereolitho- In Milan this year she changed tack momen- want to enlarge the function – so you can also raphy. With a lot of objects right now you tarily to present Volte Face, an exercise in use it as a symbolic object for rituals. That’s can see that designers try to use new types of creating the maximum functionality and why the pieces look like masks. material and complex production processes symbolic significance in an object through the I don’t like to work with aesthetics – here – I never do that – if you do that you are just absolute minimum design gesture. the aesthetic is given by holes and cuts. I doing an exercise. I don’t think that people are “I do a lot of workshops to sensitise wanted the cuts and holes to give a shape – it’s so interested in living with an exercise. You people to what designing can be. I do work- like a kid who finds a shell – depending on must first have an intention and you choose shops with small children and in a hospital the scale they imagine it as a house or as an the material for its ability to fulfil the concept. with young adults with mental illnesses. object to make things with – this was a ques- Before I wanted to do everything myself, Usually they invite artists, bat I was invited tion of creating a three dimensional shape and but more and more I do a lot of collaborations. as a designer, so I tried to do something very finding what it could be. I’m feeling more free. Now I don’t want all the simple to give them an access into design and There was an idea of not having one pieces to be the same – the craftsman has the what I do. A cut in a piece of paper turns it object for one function; you have different liberty to finish the projects – I don’t mind if from two dimensions into a three-dimension- layers of meaning with an object – when you they are slightly different.” al object that takes on a function. look at the objects coming from a village in “Volte Face started with this idea of a Africa you feel the objects have a soul – they matalicrasset.com 80 The shelf A r t s Consume We love

The broken book club

— From papercrafted creations to an elevated urban artery, ingenuity, innovation and intrigue take centre stage in this month’s book selection.

Photography Guy Van Laere Writer Nicholas Lewis

Cult street wear (2010) The front room (2009) Art + science now (2010) by Josh Sims by Michael McMillan by Stephen Wilson Laurence King Black Dog Publishing Thames & Hudson

If you’re anything like us, the term ‘street’ The front room, especially to newly-arrived This book rests on one key premise: most of conjures up feelings of corporate bigwigs migrants, was and remains an important part today’s cutting-edge contemporary art is made thinking they’re ‘with it’ because they’ve heard of creating a respectable home environment not in the studio, but in the laboratory. From about Banksy and wear Carhartt on weekends. in a new country. The window to the world computer-controlled video performances to Indeed, never since the word ‘luxury’ was for many a newly-established family, front sensorial evolving paintings, Art + science slapped on everything from tour operator hol- rooms quickly came to embody success (or lack now provides a dazzling array of cases (over idays to health insurance has a term been so thereof), similarly to the message a new BMW 250) where technology meets the arts to create blatantly misappropriated - heck, nowadays, might send to neighbours. The one room in a new, contemporary artistic narrative. It might even Sprite is said to be ‘street’. In Cult Street the house where family pride is readily put on not be everyone’s cup of tea, but you sure as Wear, Josh Sims does his best to dig through display (think graduation portraits and orna- hell need to know about this stuff. the rubble to distinguish the ‘true originals’ mental souvenirs), the front room defines a from the ‘wannabees’. He profiles the ’true’ family, from the settee and glass cabinet to the (A Bathing Ape, The Hundreds), points to the record player and paper on the wall. A warm Papercraft (2009) original (Zoo York, Triple Five Soul), touches and intimate book, full of visual references. by Robert Klanten upon the obvious (Obey, Stussy) but definitely Gestalten could have left out the majors (Nike, Puma, Lacoste). Walking the high line (2010) From character and graphic design to urban by Joel Sternfeld and fine art, paper has gained in popularity Objectivity (2010) Steidl in the last decade, a direct result of the era’s by David Usborne fascination with all things DIY. Its malleabil- Thames & Hudson New York’s High Line (an elevated cargo ity, suppleness and differences in texture allow railway line that runs down Manhattan’s West for an amazing range of different applications. Everyone has a father or uncle who spends side) is the stuff of urban legend. A logistic Paper can be crumpled, torn, folded, cut, more time in his garden shed than in the lifeline to the city from the 1930s to the 1960s, glued, painted, layered and shredded. It can house, endlessly attending to a raft of tools its use declined in the 1970s and 1980s, even be mashed up then spat out, and still look only he holds the secret to. The kind of father leading to total neglect. The High Line is today amazing. Papercraft takes its hat off to some of or uncle to have a tool for every situation life a wild and dense strip of jungle fever (grass and the most innovative artists, designers and set throws at him. This book, Objectivity, is that wildflower seeds were carried by the wind, designers in the field with this extensive survey garden shed. Presenting a bewildering array of insects and birds to form a new soil and, gradu- of the insatiable trend for paper in the creative tools of the trade (vanished ones in most cases), ally, a wild new elevated landscape) that snakes industries. the book is divided in nine useful chapters through the city. Since the beginning of 2000, (hitting, cutting, gripping, holding, rubbing, Joel Sternfeld has been capturing its many shielding, molding, spreading and testing) evolutions throughout the seasons, creating Léopold Rabus (2010) and brings about some astonishing unknowns, quiet and graceful imagery that allow a view of Hatje Cantz chosen for their intriguing functions (a glass New York from behind. cucumber forcer) and their elegant forms We only just recently discovered Rabus’ (the chest exerciser). A design geek’s guide disjointed, dysfunctional and dystopian world. to heaven. Playful and somewhat absurd, his work often depicts ill-fated, gruesome and idiotic men having fallen from grace. A fall Rabus is only too eager to interpret with his cartoon-like, heavy-handed and brash brush stroke. Culture 81

 From top to bottom The Front Room (Black dog publishing), Cult Street Wear (Laurence King), Léopold Rabus (Hatje Cantz), Walking the High Line (Steidl), Objectivity (Thames & Hudson), Art + Science Now (Thames & Hudson), Papercraft (Gestalten).

 Visit thewordmagazine.be/dribbles/theshelf for more photographs of the books as well as Amazon purchase links. 82 The pencil A A r tr s t s P P l a l ay y Technology Exclusive Talent Talent Culture 83 84 The pencil

86 The eye A r t s Photography Technology

— Many of the objects that we overlook or take for granted have had an extraordinary role to play in human history. From concrete to the cathode ray tube: yesterday’s breakthrough discovery often becomes tomorrow’s trash.

Photography Guy Van Laere Additional research Hettie Judah Culture 87

“It was around 1000 BC that the Mayan civi- countrymen by smoking in front of them. President Théodore Roosevelt made tobacco lisation began to chew and smoke the leaves Never in their lives had they seen a man with a protected crop. There were shortages of of the tobacco plant, as well as mix the leaves smoke coming out of his mouth and nose. tobacco in America and England, as packets together with herbs and plants and administer People thought that he was possessed by the and packets of cigarettes were sent to the the mixture to the wounds of the sick. devil and members of the Spanish Inquisition troops fighting in the war. Columbus was probably the first imprisoned him for several years. During his During both World Wars smoking ciga- European to see tobacco leaves although he imprisonment, smoking actually became quite rettes became immensely popular. After the did not smoke them himself. A fellow explor- popular in Spain. war the soldiers went back home and intro- er, Rodrigo de Jerez, shortly after landed in Pipe smoking and snuff became popular duced cigarettes to their families, thereby Cuba and observed some of the inhabitants in London during the 17th Century but it strengthening the trend.” smoking the tobacco leaves. wasn’t until the mid 1800's that the cigarette On his return to Spain, laden with as we know it was manufactured. © helpwithsmoking.org heaps of tobacco, Jerez startled his fellow At the beginning of WWII, American 88 The eye

“A Russian historian, Znachko-Iavorskii, tells a egg whites, Cheshire cheese, and sour camel literally means the study or lore of technique. surprising story about concrete and cement. Too cream were all used in the Middle Ages to make Engineering textbooks – that written lore – are many historians of concrete have studied only cements water-resistant. He finds a great deal of really very new. written documents. That’s not where the story is. medieval, and even Roman, concrete that would Consequently, an art that is as base, and yet The concrete itself survives from Roman times easily pass today’s standards. as fundamentally important, as mixing concrete right down through the ages. Znachko-Iavorskii He tells us something historians of technol- was learned and forgotten 100 times.” has looked at old concrete all over the world and ogy have learned the hard way and only during found that it’s remarkably variable. the last 50 years. The scribes of kings and © John H Lienhard, But chiefly he’s found so much very good emperors didn’t write down the means used by University of Houston, cement and concrete that's been passed over craftsmen out behind the castle. Documentation voice and author of the Engines and forgotten. He finds highly water-resistant of ancient technology is very minimal. The of our Ingenuity plasters from the 4th century BC. He finds that word technology itself is a modern concept. It uh.edu/engines Culture 89

05

“For over one billion people in the develop- possibly preventable blindness. through the dissemination of self-adjustable ing world, glasses are a distant dream. Access The greatest barrier to effective treatment eyeglasses through the use of existing aid/ to eyecare is almost non-existent in sub- is a lack of trained optometrists - many devel- development organisation distribution net- Saharan Africa, and highly restricted in other oping nations have as few as one optometrist works throughout the developing world.” parts of the developing world. It is beyond the for every million people. A lack of dedicated reach of hundreds of millions of the world's facilities and equipment also limits access to © Gv2020.org growing urban poor. eyecare. Compounding this issue, the cost A lack of proper eyesight has direct of traditional eyewear is prohibitive for the effects for those affected by it; a reduction many people surviving on less than a dollar in productivity at work, a closing-off of new per day. opportunities, a reduction in quality of life, Global Vision 2020 aims to tackle a possible deterioration in general health and the vast issue of vision correction globally

03 90 The eye

“It all depends on how you define important, they do face-to-face. The ubiquity of telecom- © Tom Standage, of course. But to my mind the most important munications technology has become deeply Science Correspondent of The Economist invention is telecommunications technology: embedded in our culture. Of course, life has First published on edge.org the telegraph, the telephone, and now things sped up as a result. But we watch TV and use like the Internet. Until about 150 years ago, it telephones, fax machines and, increasingly, the was impossible to communicate with someone Internet, almost unthinkingly. If the mark of an in real time unless they were in the same room. advanced technology is that it is indistinguish- Today, in the developed world at least, we able from magic, then the mark of an important think nothing of talking with people on the one is that it becomes invisible — that we fail other side of the world. During the course of to notice when we are using it. That makes the a normal working day, many people spend significance of telecommunications technology more time dealing with people remotely than very easy to overlook, and underestimate.” Culture 91

“In my view, questions of "importance" life. Although many inventions have altered © David Buss, cannot be answered without first specifying human mating over the past 2,000 years, tel- Professor of Psychology "criteria of importance," of "important with evision must rank among the most important. at The University of Texas at Austin respect to what." Television has changed status and prestige First published on edge.org Thus, I would give the following answer to criteria, created instant celebrities, hastened your question: the downfall of leaders, increased the impor- "One criterion for "most important" is that tance of physical appearance, and accelerated which has most profoundly altered patterns the intensity of intrasexual mate competition of human mating. Changes in mating can — all of which have acutely transformed the affect the subsequent evolutionary course nature of sexuality and mating and perhaps of the entire species, with cascading conse- forever altered the evolutionary course of our quences for virtually every aspect of human species.” 92 The eye

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belgium lifestyle fashion design culture You say potato Walking-the-walk Paper or plastic Materialize it Plane Simple

volume 0101 — issueissue 03 Ç ; G : :

Neighbourhood Life + Global Style

belgium lifestyle fashion design culture Pitch Perfect First Encounters In or Out Fair Trade Banking on Art

volume 01 — issue 05

OC@ Neighbourhood Life + Global Style

belgium lifestyle fashion design culture Snack Life Midnight Burning Gastro Weaponry Dirty Dishes Mood Food Do not throw on the public domain.

— the greenvolume revolution 01 — issue issue 04 —

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belgium lifestyle fashion design culture Gate Crashing Baggage Check Macadam Boulevard Handle with Care Bubble Superstar Do not throw on the public domain. =GJB — thevolume secret 01 —society issue 06 — Neighbourhood Life + Global Style

belgium lifestyle fashion design culture In-House Sole Brothers Tainted Love War Games Made-to-Order Do not throw on the public domain.

— the delectable foodie issue —

volume 02 — issue 01

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Belgium Living at Mum’s Lifestyle Asleep on the Job Fashion Wasted Days Design Sleep Keepers Culture Motel Coma + The Car Special

- Do not throw on the public domain. — the ultimate getaway —  NP=( volume 02 — issue 02

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Belgium Behind the Curtains Lifestyle Feeding Power Fashion Manicured Mysteries Design Moving Horizons Culture Cinematic Mystery + The Fashion Special Do not throw on the public domain.

— the essential luxuries issue —

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Belgium ThickDo not throw on the public domain. Skinned Lifestyle Scar Studded Fashion Vast Airs Design The Land of the New Culture Godly Structures + The Travel Special

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Belgium Me, Myself & I Lifestyle Lonesome Cowboys Fashion Mole Men Do not throw on the public domain. Design When Right Met Left Culture Micro Mad “ THE + The CINEMATIC Design Special ISSUE ”

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I N T S I H  B@O  volume 02 — issue 06 THES P BIGE ISSUE U P E O N Neighbourhood Life + Global Style

 
Big ConsolesDo not throw on the public domain.  
Techno Techno Techno  
Mason’s Apprentice  
Studio Job Are Older Than Jesus 
Boy Guards 


   “As nearly as we can tell from archaeological wheel. It's hard for us to imagine what a Most of the important ancient inven- Volume 03 — Issue 01 evidence, the wheel was invented somewhere difficult concept it represents. But look at it, tions seem to have been made over and over

in present-day Iraq or Iran around 3500 BC. if you can, from the standpoint of someone -- at different times and in different places. Neighbourhood Life + Global Style

That in itself is surprising, because it's so late who's never seen one. You understand move- Not so the wheel. It seems to have originated Neighbourhood Legal drugs Life It’s apocalypse ! Style Fashion revolutionary

=<>F Design After Do notdisaster throw on the public domain. Culture Unseen Terence Donovan + The Car Special in human history. The other odd thing about ment in a straight line, and you understand in one place and diffused to other peoples the wheel is that it stayed within Europe and the idea of turning things around. But can you and other cultures from there. It was very Volume 03 — Issue 02 Asia as long as it did. Wheels were hardly make a connection between the two? Can you likely the product of an isolated act of human Neighbourhood Life + Global Style seen in the American hemisphere until they conceive of making a vehicle go forward by ingenuity.” Neighbourhood Ska steady Life We love dirt Style New skin generation were brought into regular use by European turning something around? Design Rise of Do not throw on the public domain. robots Culture Burnt and fragile + The Fashion Special settlers in the 17th century. There's evidence We've all played the children's game of © John H Lienhard, that 11th-century Mexicans had the concept, patting our head and rubbing our stomach at University of Houston, but no evidence of its general use. the same time. It's very hard to do, because it's voice and author of the Engines

DNNP@NDo not throw on the public domain. Of course, we've lived since birth with hard to conceptualise these two very different of our Ingenuity a hundred thousand different forms of the kinds of motion at the same time. uh.edu/engines nc`qjm_h\b\di`)]`Do not throw on the public domain.  volume 0101 — isissuesue 002 , Ç ; G : :  M@

belgium lifestyle fashion design culture You say potato Walking-the-walk Paper or plastic Materialize it Plane Simple

volume 0101 — issueissue 03 Ç ; G : :

Neighbourhood Life + Global Style

belgium lifestyle fashion design culture Pitch Perfect First Encounters In or Out Fair Trade Banking on Art

volume 01 — issue 05

OC@ Neighbourhood Life + Global Style

belgium lifestyle fashion design culture Snack Life Midnight Burning Gastro Weaponry Dirty Dishes Mood Food Do not throw on the public domain.

— the greenvolume revolution 01 — issue issue 04 —

Neighbourhood Life + Global Style

belgium lifestyle fashion design culture Gate Crashing Baggage Check Macadam Boulevard Handle with Care Bubble Superstar Do not throw on the public domain. =GJB — thevolume secret 01 —society issue 06 — Neighbourhood Life + Global Style

belgium lifestyle fashion design culture In-House Sole Brothers Tainted Love War Games Made-to-Order Do not throw on the public domain.

— the delectable foodie issue —

volume 02 — issue 01

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Belgium Living at Mum’s Lifestyle Asleep on the Job Fashion Wasted Days Design Sleep Keepers Culture Motel Coma + The Car Special

- Do not throw on the public domain. — the ultimate getaway —  NP=( volume 02 — issue 02

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Belgium Behind the Curtains Lifestyle Feeding Power Fashion Manicured Mysteries Design Moving Horizons Culture Cinematic Mystery + The Fashion Special Do not throw on the public domain.

— the essential luxuries issue —

volume 02 — issue 03

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Belgium ThickDo not throw on the public domain. Skinned Lifestyle Scar Studded Fashion Vast Airs Design The Land of the New Culture Godly Structures + The Travel Special

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Belgium Me, Myself & I Lifestyle Lonesome Cowboys Fashion Mole Men Do not throw on the public domain. Design When Right Met Left Culture Micro Mad “ THE + The CINEMATIC Design Special ISSUE ”

An Original Screenplay by The Word Magazine

volume 02 — issue 05

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I N T S I H  B@O  volume 02 — issue 06 THES P BIGE ISSUE U P E O N Neighbourhood Life + Global Style

 
Big ConsolesDo not throw on the public domain.  
Techno Techno Techno  
Mason’s Apprentice  
Studio Job Are Older Than Jesus 
Boy Guards 


  

Volume 03 — Issue 01

Neighbourhood Life + Global Style

Neighbourhood Legal drugs Life It’s apocalypse ! Style Fashion revolutionary

=<>F Design After Do notdisaster throw on the public domain. Culture Unseen Terence Donovan + The Car Special

Volume 03 — Issue 02

Neighbourhood Life + Global Style

Neighbourhood Ska steady Life We love dirt Style New skin generation

Design Rise of Do not throw on the public domain. robots Culture Burnt and fragile + The Fashion Special

DNNP@NDo not throw on the public domain. nc`qjm_h\b\di`)]`Do not throw on the public domain.  94 The stockists Consume We love

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concerts. Brussels. Palais des Beaux-Arts. . . . B r a n d s DISCOVER the Flanders Symphony Orchestra’s 2010-2011 season with his new chief conductor SEIKYO KIM. Over 100 reason’s to (re)discover Maasmechelen Village. T H E W O R D R E A D E R E V E N T World’s luxury fashion and lifestyle brands offering savings of 30% to 60%* – all year round. Email [email protected] for your chance to get invited to a Word-exclusive night with Brussels Philharmonic – het Vlaams Radio Orkest on Mon- Anne de Solène, Barbour, BCBG, Bellerose, Björn Borg, Bodum, Café Coton, Calvin Klein Jeans, Calvin Klein day 21st June at Bozar (Brussels). On the programme: Underwear, Chine, Converse/Gant Footwear, Devernois, Diesel, Dyrberg/Kern, Escada, Essentiel, Façonnable, nibbles, cocktails and a conversation with conductor Fornarina, Fossil, Furla, Gaastra, Garcia, Geox Shoes, Gerry, Golfino, G-Star, Gsus, Hackett, Home & Cook, Hugo Michel Tabachnik. Boss, IC Companys, Kickers, K.I.D.S., Kid’s Story, Kipling, Laurèl, Leonardo, Leonidas, Levi’s, Liu Jo, Marc O’Polo, Marc Picard, Marithé+François Girbaud, Marlboro Classics, Marlies Dekkers, McGregor, Mer du Nord, Mexx, Miss Sixty/Energie, Möve, Mugler Men - Thierry Mugler, Napapijri, Nike, Nitya, Noukie’s, Olivier Strelli, Pepe Jeans, Petit Bateau, Pinko, Pringle of Scotland, Protest, Puma, Reebok, Rhétorique, River Woods, Rosenthal, Royal Boch, Rue Blanche, Samsonite, Sarah Pacini, Sarar, Scapa, Scapa Sports, Schiesser, S.C.H.O.P. Shoes, Strenesse, Suitsupply, Sunglass Time, Superdry, Talking French, The Society Shop, Tintin, Tommy Hilfiger, United Colors of Benetton, Van Lier, Versace, Villeroy & Boch, Wolford and many more NEW BOUTIQUE: SPAZIO DOLCE&GABBANA Seikyo Kim. © Eisuke Miyoshi

For more INFORMATION have a look at www.symfonieorkest.be www.brusselsphilharmonic.be Brussels Philharmonic – het Vlaams Radio Orkest is een instelling van de Vlaamse Gemeenschap. www.MaasmechelenVillage.com · Open on Sundays Vlaams Omroeporkest en Kamerkoor vzw | Eugène Flageyplein 18 B-1050 Brussel | T +32 2 627 11 60 | [email protected] Order your programme leaflet for our concerts in * off the recommended retail price Brussels at [email protected]

adv The Word 2010-2011 Seikyo 2.indd 1 07-05-2010 13:20:00 Symfonieorkest Vlaanderen Brussels Philharmonic Maasmechelen070510-THE WORD-ADV MMV.indd 1 Village 08-04-2010 17:28:49 symfonieorkest.be brusselsphilharmonic.be maasmechelenvillage.com Round-up 97

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Wiels Contemporary Art Centre presents large-scale exhibitions accompanied by a complementary program of conferences, screenings, performances,… alongside an international artist-in-residency platform of nine studios and ,  M @ < ?  an education and off-site program. OC@ 29.05–15.08.2010 Rehabilitation Leonor Antunes, Alexandra Leykauf, David Maljkovic, 25.06–12 .09. 2 010 = G J B  Manfred Pernice, Falke Pisano, Tobias Putrih, Pia Rönicke, Wangechi Mutu Oscar Tuazon, Armando -  N P = ( Tudela, Up N > M D = @

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pageA4_1.ai 2/27/2009 99 6:40:56 PM page 100

Dining in style

Ristorante italiano , part of The Rocco Forte Collection “Hotel Amigo” Rue de l'Amigo 1, 1000 BRUXELLES | Tel. : 02.547.47.15 | Fax : 02.547.47.67 www.ristorantebocconi.com | [email protected] Ristorante Bocconi Delvaux ristorantebocconi.com delvaux.com 98 Before we leave you… P l a y The team © Melika Ngombe A4_1.ai 2/27/2009 6:40:56 PM

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Ristorante italiano , part of The Rocco Forte Collection “Hotel Amigo” Rue de l'Amigo 1, 1000 BRUXELLES | Tel. : 02.547.47.15 | Fax : 02.547.47.67 www.ristorantebocconi.com | [email protected]