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CAMBODIA Resurrecting Ofthenewcentury © Lonely Planet Publications 182 lonelyplanet.com CAMBODIA •• History 183 HISTORY Scholars argue about the origin of the Khmers, FAST FACTS Cambodia with some claiming they are a hybrid of mi- Area 181,035 sq km grants from China and India, others that they were travellers who settled from the islands Capital Phnom Penh from Southeast Asia (today’s Malaysia and Country Code %855 Indonesia). Discovery of bones in the eastern Population 14.071 million parts of Cambodia dating from 1500 BC show Drop your jaw at the sight of Angkor, a 12th-century wonder of monumental splendour; a resemblance between prehistoric humans Money US$1 = 4075r (riel) it will leave you awestruck and wanting more. Cross the ancient bridges and through the and the Khmers of today. Seasons wet May-Oct, dry Nov-Apr depths of jungle and more is what you’ll discover; a land strewn with temples engulfed by Phrases sua s’dei (hello), lia suhn hao-y The Early Years (goodbye), aw kohn (thank you) nature, you’ll feel like an explorer in a lucid dream. CAMBODIA The first Khmer kingdom arose in the 1st cen- Welcome to Cambodia! A heart-shaped country nurtured by the Mekong, it once ruled tury in what is known as the Funan era. The the delta as a mighty empire. A lost civilisation, cloaked in legends and myths, it has re- Funan empire was highly influenced by the this he began a long line of god-kings span- culture of India and was a sophisticated civi- ning centuries and created the kind of devo- CAMBODIA CAMBODIA emerged as a hot destination on the Asian trail. lisation of literacy and arts. Indian traders and tion that befits a deity. scholars had reached Cambodia as early as 100 In the 9th century King Yasovarman I Cambodia’s landscape is a scenic timeline of erratic history; from the vestiges of mysteri- BC and brought with them Sanskrit, Hindu- moved the capital to Angkor and a new cen- ous god-kings and the colonial imprints left by the imperialist French, its past spans across ism and Buddhism. The Khmers adopted this tre for scholarship, worship and arts emerged. never-ending rice plains and small town villages, over mighty rivers and exotic wildlife, past process of Indianisation wholeheartedly and From here on, generations of kings waged palm trees and tropical beaches to reach the energised cities of present-day mayhem. between the 1st and the 6th centuries all royal wars, alternating between defeat and triumph records were kept in Sanskrit and the deities until, under the rule of King Suryavarman A land of contrasts, this is where the islands are deserted but the cities heave, where Shiva and Vishnu were most revered. II, Kambuja (as it was then known) grew to mountains project from emerald forests but secrets lurk underground. Where hill tribes ride The word Funan itself is Chinese, though encompass Champa (now central Vietnam), elephants to pounding waterfalls and where everybody is happy to simply be alive. Not surpris- scholars believe it is derived from the ancient Annam (now northern Vietnam) and Siam Khmer word phnom, meaning mountain. (now Thailand). In 1130, King Suryavarman ing given that life was so cruelly stripped away in the 1970s by the despotic Khmer Rouge. The Funan empire is believed to have II built the temple of Angkor to honour the been centred around modern-day Ba Phnom Hindu god Vishnu. Today the Khmers – with their unbreakable spirit and infectious optimism – are finally ( p228 ) and northern Vietnam near the Me- In 1177, rebellious Chams from Vietnam clambering back; over the ruins of their temples and the sands of their beaches, they are kong Delta. It is largely considered by aca- sacked Angkor and it was not restored to resurrecting an enigmatic nation: Cambodia, the comeback kid of the new century. demics that Funan was not a united kingdom, Khmer power until Jayavarman VII, who but one of many factions which often warred became the kingdom’s most prolific builder against one another but came to present a and is responsible for many of the archaeo- HIGHLIGHTS unified state when offering tributary goods logical treasures known today. After Jayavar- Fall under the spell of the mighty Angkor to the Chinese emperor in order to encour- man VII, the kingdom steadily declined. In at the mind-blowing structures of divine Ratanakiri age trade. 1432, the Siam kingdom gained power and spirituality: the Temples of Angkor ( p208 ), Around the 6th century, the mighty Funan captured Angkor, and the Khmers packed up Temples of Angkor a heroic feat of ancient civilisation declined and in its place rose Chenla. Previ- and headed towards Phnom Penh. Mondulkiri ously a vassal state to Funan, Chenla achieved The succession of feeble monarchs that Take a tuk-tuk through the chaotic capital independence, grew in power and then con- followed further weakened Cambodia, until and wrap your head around the progres- quered the Funan empire. It was to reign su- eventually it became a puppet state bowing sive cacophony that is Phnom Penh ( p188 ) preme until AD 802. Once more this was not to its now more powerful neighbours, Siam Plunge into the enormous rock pools hid- Phnom Koh Kong Penh a unified kingdom; surviving inscriptions in and Vietnam. den by a barrage of giant bamboo before Sanskrit indicate that there were a number gunning through the mangrove forests at of small kingdoms in Cambodia during this Enter the French sunset at Koh Kong ( p247 ) Sihanoukville time. The French arrived in Southeast Asia in 1858, Run for the hills in Cambodia’s northeast Chinese records describe a Water Chenla ready to conquer. They set up base in Saigon and steer elephants to cascading water- and a Land Chenla. Water Chenla is placed before setting their sights on Cambodia. falls; drink with the indigenous hill tribes and explore their sacred and primitive burial sites as around the south of the Mekong River and At this time, King Norodom requested the sun climbs over pristine forests at Mondulkiri ( p236 ) and Ratanakiri ( p233 ) Land Chenla northeast of Tonlé Sap river. French aid against the Siamese and they agreed, forcing him to sign a treaty that made Make like an Angkor Beer on ice and chill on the beaches of Sihanoukville ( p238 ); cruise to Rise & Fall of Angkor Cambodia a French protectorate. He should neighbouring islands for secluded castaway action and cook fresh fish on the bonfire In 802 King Jayavarman II gained the throne have known that nothing came for free, and and declared himself devaraja (god-king). In in 1884 under the threat of cannon fire, was 184 CAMBODIA •• History lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com CAMBODIA •• History 185 0 100 km CAMBODIA 0 60 miles With the support of the new Lon Nol CPP ruled by the current-day prime minis- To Vientiane government, the USA bombarded the Cam- ter, Hun Sen; Funcinpec led by King Nor- (650km) bodian countryside with bombs in an effort odom Sihanouk’s son, Prince Ranariddh; to flush out the Viet Cong. This did not go BLDP, directed by former Lon Nol general, down well with the countryside dwellers and Sak Sutsakhan (just to name a few); and the THAILAND LAOS a bitter army grew. This peasant army, called guerrilla Khmer Rouge who were still con- upon by King Norodom Sihanouk himself to trolling the north and west of Cambodia. Dangkrek Mountains rise and fight against Lon Nol, was gaining All were vying for control and fighting for Chong Jom Choam Sa-Ngam Virachay in power with one man in particular at the political power. This created even more in- Ea Choam Prasat Preah st National Park Samraong O Smach ern Vihear Highlands helm. King Sihanouk nicknamed the army stability and the UN finally stepped in to Anlong Siem Pang Veng Voen Kham the Khmer Rouge, and that man was Pol help after an agreement was signed in Paris Bateay Chhmar Dom Kralor Voen Sai Tbeng To Bangkok Kulen RATANAKIRI Pot. for all parties to participate in free elections (280km) Banteay Meanchey CAMBODIA Top Kbal Spean Koh Ker Aranya Prathet Siyong PREAH Ban supervised by the UN. Lung Poipet Sisophon Banteay Beng VIHEAR Mealea Stung Khmer Rouge Takeover In 1992 Untac (UN Transitional Authority Srei Treng Lumphat Preah Mek Mongkol Borei Angkor In April 1975, screaming soldiers armed with in Cambodia) arrived. Its task, along with Khvau Khan Siem Reap o Wat Ek ng AK47s entered government buildings, of- peacekeeping, was to oversee the overall Phnom CAMBODIA CAMBODIA Phnom Roluos fices and homes in Phnom Penh and ordered reconstruction of the country and to su- Sampeau 6 Sambor Koh Nhek Battambang Tonlé Prei Kuk River Ban everybody out. They then marched them in pervise the democratic election. Although Psar Sneng Sap Pakard Prohm Wat Banan 7 MONDULKIRI a mass exodus to the countryside, where for Funcinpec won, CPP’s Hun Sen with his 10 Prek Toal Bird Bou Sraa 5 Falls Pailin Sanctuary Kompong Thom the next four years they were forced into trademark bullying and threats managed to Phulung Pursat Kratie Sen Monorom slave labour to meet Pol Pot’s revolution- muscle into power – demanding the title Putang C Krakor T onl ary dream. of Second Prime Minister. To this Untac a 5 r Romanear a é S Sre Khtum Waterfall d ap Chhlong Pol Pot had devised a plan of turning the agreed and the two parties formed a unique a 6 Trat m Kompong Dak Dam o Veal Veng m Chhnang Snuol Waterfall country into an agrarian utopia through an coalition. In 1997, Hun Sen staged a bloody 7 M Phnom Aoral Kompong Cham o (1813m) Skuon u 7 ultra-Maoist regime.
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