destination report

Cuba calling The largest island in the Caribbean is on the brink of massive change. Now, without doubt, is the time to visit.

by gillian upton

tepping back in time is integral The night we arrived, I rode around in Hot on the heels of this announcement to the Cuban experience. The a red open-top Cadillac from that era and came the news that Carnival Corporation’s entire island, the largest in the sipped a classic Mojito on the terrace of the fathom brand will operate ‘social impact’ SCaribbean, appears to be locked Hotel Nacional overlooking the 7km-long cruises here every other week from next in a time warp, exemplified more than Malecon seafront promenade. It’s easy to spring, from Miami, with passengers anywhere by the capital, Havana. imagine how majestic the crumbling Art participating in volunteering projects ashore. Fifty years of a US trade blockade have Deco and Art Nouveau edifices must have Spain’s discovery of the Cuban put paid to any building maintenance or once looked. archipelago in the 16th century set modernisation. The economy is in tatters. How long this fading charm will last is the island’s fate for years to come. Cubans have food ration cards and meagre now questionable, as US President Barack The indigenous Indians, wiped out by salaries. Few can afford cars and buses are Obama has been instrumental in thawing colonisation, were replaced by African overcrowded. the long-standing relationship between slaves who worked the sugar plantations cruise ports & Yetdestinations for visitors to the socialist state the two countries. Locals do not expect for nearly a century. Havana, Trinidad and of Cuba – firmly in the hands of Raul change to come too quickly, though. On Santiago de Cuba developed into thriving © Castro now his brother Fidel is in poor board, shore excursion manager Christina towns for the wealthy plantation owners health – reliving its heyday from the 1930s Istrate, told me: “Cuba will open up, but it who built grand homes filled with the finest is part of the rich destination experience will take some time.” Yet things are already European objets d’art. These were the best and tourism brings much-needed income. happening; since my cruise, MSC Cruises excursions on my cruise. I joined a seven-day cruise aboard the has announced that it wll be home-porting Trinidad – a UNESCO World 1,200-passenger Celestyal Crystal (formerly the 2,120-passenger MSC Opera in Havana Heritage site – is a poignant lesson in this Louis Cristal) operated by Canadian-owned for the coming winter season – the first revolutionary island’s history. From the Cuba Cruise. mainstream line to base a ship here. port of Cienfuegos on the south coast, it’s

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Need to know Virgin Atlantic flies direct twice a week from Gatwick. Return Economy fares from £696 during 2015 (0844 2092 770, virginatlantic.com). A tourist visa or Tourist Card is required, valid for 30 days (cubadiplomatico.cu). Passports must be valid for six months from the date of entry. A dual currency operates: the Cuban Peso (CUP) for locals and the Cuban Convertible Peso (CUC) for tourists. ATMs are often empty so passengers should take cash. ATMS do not accept withdrawals from Switch cards. It’s best to change money at banks or hotels only. Wifi is erratic and most likely to be found in large hotels. Gifts of pens, pencils and toiletries are appreciated.

a two-hour coach journey along bumpy plazas in which to sit and have coffee, p r e v i o u s pag e Trinidad's roads to the centre of the island. Trinidad’s Cruising Cuba while other sights include the rum empire rooftops c lo c k w i s e f r o m jewel is Plaza Mayor, crammed with ochre- that once occupied the Art Deco Bacardi to p l e f t Vintage car; local Cuba Cruise offers 17 seven-night Dec 23; a 14-night Caribbean & Cuba musician; Old Havana; coloured mansions on all sides. One is now departures for 2015/16, starting cruise sailing from Bridgetown, Barbados, building, the Museum of the Revolution, tropical beaches; Celestyal the Museum of Romance, fronted by vast the stunning Grand Theatre and Capitol Crystal; dancing in the December 18 and ending with the March also on Braemar, on Jan 7, 2016; and a street; a cool Mojito. doors large enough for a horse and carriage 21, 2016 sailing. Embark Mondays from 77-night South American Discovery cruise building on Paseo de Marti. to pass through into a pretty courtyard. Havana or Fridays from Montego Bay, ex-Southampton, on Boudicca, on Jan 8, The sounds of the city are another Original exhibits include Meissen and Jamaica. For 2015, there are four Cuban (01473 742424, fredolsencruises.com). distraction as Cuban culture is thriving, Limoges porcelain embellished with the ports of call: Havana (overnight), Maria la in music, art and literature. I stumbled family’s initials as well as Baccarat crystal Gorda, Cienfuegos and Santiago de Cuba. Voyages of Discovery calls at Antilla upon open-air poetry readings, musical and a Carrara marble bath. Excursions include visits to cigar and rum and Havana on a 15-day Rhythms of ensembles and street entertainers. We had a guided tour of this lavish factories, national parks, historic sites and the Caribbean & Cuba cruise, departing Santiago de Cuba, the former capital, property, free time to walk the wide, beaches. Commission 20%. (cubacruise. January 3, 2016 (01858 898006, is the island’s second largest city and cobbled streets, peruse street vendors’ wares com; represented in the UK by SLC voyagesofdiscovery.co.uk). takes credit for the roots of the Cuban – from cigars and ceramics to crochet Representation, 020 8545 2616) Revolution and arguably the most MSC Cruises will offer 16 cruises on MSC exuberant annual carnival. The sprawling I rode around Fred. Olsen offers Havana and Santiago Opera from Havana starting December El Morro castle, now a UNESCO World Havana in a red, de Cuba on three Caribbean itineraries: 22, 2015, with two nights in the capital and Heritage Site, was built by the Spaniards sell it! a 43-night Caribbean, Canaries, Cuban calls in Jamaica, the Cayman Islands and in the 17th century. Our excursion allowed open-top Cadillac & Colombian Adventure on Braemar on Cozumel (msccruises.co.uk). time to explore and take in the amazing Cuba has novelty on its side; it’s a ‘new’ Caribbean destination views from the parapet. agents can sell during the winter season as a cultural, cruise garments and eclectic art – and marvel at A refreshing Mojito set or beach break. Earmarked for massive tourism development other homes turned into art galleries and Star Clippers offers seven-night everyone up for the bus tour of once American passport holders begin to flood in, the advice for museums. Lunch was in the cool of the sailings on the 170-passenger sailing the city afterwards, taking in passengers is to go now. courtyard of the former Spanish Royalcruise ports &monuments, destinations the imposing colonial ship Star Flyer between December Hotel accommodation in Cuba is hard to find, especially for Prison in Cienfuegos, where we were 2015 and March 2016, round trip from home of the Bacardi family, now clients who want to stay in Havana – but cruise ships still have serenaded by local musicians.© a cultural centre, the historic quarter, Cienfuegos and calling at Casilda, Cayo availability. Havana, Cuba's main attraction, is Largo and Archipelago De Los and the San Juan Hills where Teddy Culture aside, the best beaches are on the north of the island. worth at least three days pre- or post-cruise. Canarreos, exploring smaller islands Roosevelt brought US forces to join the Varadero has been built for mass tourism while 6,000 private cays From the port, I meandered through the for beaches and snorkelling. Cruises Cuban army to capture the ridge in the offer barefoot, uncommercialised tourism. old town and found the imposing cathedral, from Havana itself will be introduced for 1898 Spanish-American war. American Pre or post stays in Havana are best in the Hotel Sevilla (Mercure) endless decorative stone friezes, tiling the 2016/17 season (0845 200 6145, intervention this time around, though, or Floridita in the old town or Melia Cohiba, Nacional or NH Parc and stylised figurative detail on almost starclippers.co.uk). will free this beautiful, diverse island to Central.

Cuba Cruise; Shutterstock Cuba Cruise; every building. There are cobblestoned develop as it should have.

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