01_945598 ffirs.qxp 11/17/06 10:52 AM Page i
Cuba 3rd Edition
by Eliot Greenspan
with Neil E. Schlecht
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist
“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers
01_945598 ffirs.qxp 11/17/06 10:52 AM Page i
Cuba 3rd Edition
by Eliot Greenspan
with Neil E. Schlecht
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist
“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers 01_945598 ffirs.qxp 11/17/06 10:52 AM Page ii
Published by: Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2007 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authoriza- tion through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax 317/572-4355, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN: 978-0-471-94559-8 Editor: Billy Fox Production Editor: Eric T. Schroeder Cartographer: Guy Ruggiero Photo Editor: Richard Fox Anniversary Logo Design: Richard Pacifico Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Front cover photo: A bass player in Trinidad Back cover photo: A family holiday at Varadero For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 54321 02_945598 ftoc.qxp 11/17/06 10:53 AM Page iii
Contents
List of Maps vi
What’s New in Cuba 1
1 The Best of Cuba 4 by Eliot Greenspan & Neil E. Schlecht 1 The Best Cuban Travel Experiences . . .4 7 The Best Hotels ...... 10 2 The Best Historical Sights ...... 5 8 The Best Casas Particulares ...... 11 3 The Best of Natural Cuba ...... 7 9 The Best Restaurants & Paladares . . .12 4 The Best Outdoor Adventures ...... 7 10 The Best of Cuban Nightlife ...... 13 5 The Best Beaches ...... 8 11 The Best of Cuba Online ...... 14 6 The Best Resort Hotels ...... 9
2 Planning Your Trip to Cuba 15 by Eliot Greenspan 1 The Regions in Brief ...... 15 Frommers.com: The Complete 2 Visitor Information ...... 18 Travel Resource ...... 37 Destination Cuba: Red Alert 10 The 21st-Century Traveler ...... 38 Checklist ...... 19 Online Traveler’s Toolbox ...... 40 3 Entry Requirements & Customs . . . . .20 11 Getting There ...... 40 Gifts & Other Assistance ...... 22 12 Package Deals, Escorted Tours 4 Money ...... 24 & Special-Interest Vacations ...... 44 5 When to Go ...... 26 13 The Active Vacation Planner ...... 47 Calendar of Events ...... 27 14 Getting Around ...... 49 6 Travel Insurance ...... 29 15 Tips on Accommodations ...... 51 7 Health & Safety ...... 31 16 Tips on Dining ...... 52 8 Specialized Travel Resources ...... 33 17 Recommended Books, Film & Music ...... 54 Race Relations in Cuba ...... 34 Fast Facts: Cuba ...... 56 9 Planning Your Trip Online ...... 35
3 Suggested Cuba Itineraries 63 1 Cuba in 1 Week ...... 63 4 Colonial Treasures Highlights Tour . . .68 2 Cuba in 2 Weeks ...... 65 5 Havana in 3 Days ...... 71 3 Cuba for Families ...... 67 02_945598 ftoc.qxp 11/17/06 10:53 AM Page iv
iv CONTENTS
4 Havana 73 by Eliot Greenspan 1 Orientation ...... 74 Luis Posada Carriles ...... 110 Neighborhoods in Brief ...... 78 Frommer’s Favorite Havana 2 Getting Around ...... 80 Experiences ...... 112 Fast Facts: Havana ...... 83 6 Outdoor Pursuits ...... 115 3 Where to Stay ...... 85 7 Shopping ...... 117 4 Where to Dine ...... 98 8 Havana After Dark ...... 121 5 What to See & Do ...... 106 9 Side Trips from Havana ...... 125 A Quick Key to Havana’s Parks & Plazas ...... 108
5 Viñales & Western Cuba 126 by Eliot Greenspan 1 Pinar del Río ...... 126 4 Cayo Levisa ...... 140 Smoke ’Em If You Got ’Em ...... 129 5 María la Gorda ...... 141 2 Viñales ...... 130 6 Isla de la Juventud ...... 143 3 Sierra del Rosario Biosphere 7 Cayo Largo del Sur ...... 147 Reserve & San Diego de los Baños ...... 136
6 Varadero & Matanzas Province 150 by Eliot Greenspan 1 Matanzas ...... 150 3 The Zapata Peninsula & 2 Varadero ...... 153 Playa Girón ...... 166 The Bay of Pigs ...... 168
7 Trinidad & Central Cuba 171 by Eliot Greenspan & Neil E. Schlecht 1 Santa Clara ...... 171 Beny Moré ...... 183 Che Guevara ...... 174 3 Trinidad ...... 186 2 Cienfuegos ...... 179 4 Sancti Spíritus ...... 198 02_945598 ftoc.qxp 11/17/06 10:53 AM Page v
CONTENTS v
8 Camagüey & the Northeastern Coast 205 by Eliot Greenspan & Neil E. Schlecht
1 Cayo Coco & Cayo Guillermo . . . . .205 A Stopover in Morón ...... 211 A Bridge So Far ...... 206 2 Camagüey ...... 214 Papa & the Cayos ...... 209
9 El Oriente 226 by Eliot Greenspan & Neil E. Schlecht
1 Guardalavaca ...... 226 Goin’ (or Not) to Gitmo ...... 247 2 Bayamo & the Sierra Maestra . . . .238 3 Baracoa ...... 248 Dear Granma ...... 243
10 Santiago de Cuba 256 by Eliot Greenspan & Neil E. Schlecht
1 Orientation ...... 256 5 Where to Dine ...... 270 Santiago, City of Struggle 6 Shopping ...... 273 & Rebellion ...... 260 7 Santiago de Cuba After Dark . . . . .274 2 Getting Around ...... 261 Carnival & Other Santiago Fast Facts: Santiago de Cuba . . . . .262 Festivals ...... 275 3 What to See & Do ...... 263 8 Side Trips from Santiago 4 Where to Stay ...... 267 de Cuba ...... 277
Appendix A: Cuba in Depth 281 by Eliot Greenspan & Neil E. Schlecht
1 History 101 ...... 281 Afro-Cuban Percussion 2 Cuba Today ...... 286 Instruments ...... 294 3 Cuban Culture ...... 290 The Major Orishás ...... 297
Appendix B: Useful Spanish Terms & Phrases 298 1 Basic Words & Phrases ...... 298 3 Some Typically Cuban Words 2 More Useful Phrases ...... 300 & Phrases ...... 301
Index 302 02_945598 ftoc.qxp 11/17/06 10:53 AM Page vi
List of Maps
The Regions in Brief 16 Cienfuegos 181 Cuba in 1 Week/Cuba in 2 Weeks 64 Trinidad 187 Colonial Treasures 70 Sancti Spíritus 199 Havana at a Glance 75 Cayo Coco & Cayo Guillermo 207 La Habana Vieja & Centro Habana 77 Camagüey 215 Vedado 79 El Oriente 227 Playa 81 Bayamo 241 The Viñales Valley 131 Baracoa 249 Varadero 154 Santiago de Cuba 258 Santa Clara 173 03_945598 flast.qxp 11/17/06 10:53 AM Page vii
Acknowledgements Big thanks to Billy Fox, who not only has a deft editorial hand, but is also a composer of and expert on Cuban music. Much of his experience and expertise made its way into this edition. 03_945598 flast.qxp 11/17/06 10:53 AM Page viii
An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommenda- tion, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Cuba, 3rd Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experi- ences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
About the Authors Eliot Greenspan is a poet, journalist, and travel writer who took his backpack and typewriter the length of Mesoamerica before settling in Costa Rica in 1992. Since then, he has worked steadily for the Tico Times and other local media. He is also the author of Frommer’s Belize, Frommer’s Costa Rica, and Frommer’s Guatemala, as well as Costa Rica For Dummies, and the chapter on Venezuela in Frommer’s South America. Neil E. Schlecht is the author and co-author of a dozen travel guides (including Spain For Dum- mies, Frommer’s South America, and Frommer’s Peru), as well as articles on art and culture and art catalogue essays, and is also a photographer. He now resides in northwestern Connecticut.
Other Great Guides for Your Trip:
Frommer’s Belize Frommer’s Caribbean Frommer’s Costa Rica Frommer’s Mexico Frommer’s Portable Dominican Republic Frommer’s South America 03_945598 flast.qxp 11/17/06 10:53 AM Page ix
Frommer’s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for:
Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about
Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun
Kids Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family
Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of
Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money
Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money
Value Great values—where to get the best deals
The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
Frommers.com Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com for additional travel information on more than 3,500 destinations. We update features regularly to give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you’ll find scoops on the best airfares, lodging rates, and car rental bargains. You can even book your travel online through our travel booking partners. Other popular features include: • Online updates to our most popular guidebooks • Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways • Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends • Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions 03_945598 flast.qxp 11/17/06 10:53 AM Page x 04_945598 whatsnew.qxp 11/17/06 10:54 AM Page 1
What’s New in Cuba
Cuba seems to defy Benjamin Disraeli’s News of Castro’s illness led to celebra- famous maxim that “Change is con- tions in the Cuban-exile community of stant.” Some things never change in Miami. There literally was dancing in the Cuba, including the government, archi- streets. However, these celebrations have tecture, and the fleet of old American proven to be a bit premature. As exiles, cars. Other things, including the hotel politicians, and pundits discuss the and restaurant scene, change at a dizzying changes that will occur in a post-Castro pace. The most important changes and Cuba, there is little indication of any new developments in the tourism field immediate or imminent changes. While are listed here. For greater detail, see the common wisdom states that Raúl Castro individual destination chapters. lacks the charm, charisma, and love of the people that his older brother commands, CASTRO UPDATE the fact is that over the past 47 years, the In July of 2006, Fidel Castro handed off Castro brothers and the Cuban Commu- the reins of government for the first time nist party have built a massive and endur- in 47 years. The reins were not passed far. ing system that is unlikely to simply In fact, Fidel turned over the day-to-day crumble as soon as Fidel Castro dies. chores of governing to his younger brother Raúl, who was already the head PLANNING YOUR TRIP of the Cuban armed forces and the head The Cuban government has sought to of Cuba’s Communist party. As this book discourage the use of U.S. dollars in Cuba goes to press, rumors and conjecture con- by placing a 10% surcharge on any offi- tinue to swirl. Castro, who turned 80 on cial exchange of U.S. dollars to the August 13, 2006, underwent surgery for Cuban convertible peso, or CUC. To an undisclosed abdominal condition on avoid this surcharge, it is best to travel July 31. Some say he is in the late termi- with euros or British pounds. nal stages of stomach or intestinal cancer. HAVANA In recent years, there have been news & reports that the charismatic leader had The Hotel Saratoga ( 7/868-1000; Parkinson’s disease, a terminal brain www.hotel-saratoga.com) is a stunning tumor, and any number of other illnesses and wonderfully executed new luxury hotel in the heart of Habana Vieja. and ailments. The Cuban government & says he is doing fine and will live a long The NH Parque Central ( 7/860- and fruitful life. As of mid-October, 6627; www.nh-hoteles.es) is building an 2006, he has not resumed his duties as annex of 149 new rooms. The annex Cuba’s president, and he has been seen adjoins the current structure and will very little in public. blend in architecturally. Construction of 04_945598 whatsnew.qxp 11/17/06 10:54 AM Page 2
2 WHAT’S NEW these new rooms is expected to be fin- TRINIDAD & CENTRAL CUBA ished by late 2007. In Cienfuegos, the new Hostal Palacio Although it’s by no means new, I just Azul (& 432/55-5828; www.hoteles recently discovered the increasingly cubanacan.com) is an excellent new poorly kept secret dining spot Los Nar- budget option overlooking the city’s har- dos (& 7/863-2985), located up a rick- bor in the desirable Punta Gorda section ety flight of stairs entered through an of town. almost unmarked doorway just across the Next door to the Palacio Azul, and fol- street from El Capitolio. lowing an extensive remodeling, the Club & VIÑALES & WESTERN CUBA Cienfuegos ( 432/51-2891) is a won- derful complex featuring a couple of Downtown Pinar del Rio finally has a restaurants, a bar, and a small marina. reasonable hotel option. The new Hotel In the heart of colonial Trinidad, the Vuelta Abajo (& 82/75-9381; www. new Gran Hotel Iberostar Trinidad islazul.cu) is housed in a wonderfully (& 419/6073; www.iberostar.com) has restored colonial building in the heart of significantly upped the bar for accommo- the city’s bustling downtown. dations in this historic old city. There’s a new zip-line and harness Things are heating up out on the Cay- Canopy Tour at the Las Terrazas ería del Norte, where the new Occidental (& 7/204-3739; www.lasterrazas.cu) Royal Hideaway Ensenachos (& 7/204- tourism project. 3584; www.occidental-hoteles.com) has VARADERO & MATANZAS opened up with over 500 luxury rooms PROVINCE set just steps away from two of the most The new luxury resort Sandals Princesa beautiful beaches in the country. del Mar (& 45/66-7200; www.sandals A little farther out on the cays, con- princesadelmar.com) has finally gotten struction is still underway on the Meliá into a groove, after struggling for a couple Las Dunas (& 42/35-0100; www. of years to find a management team. solmeliacuba.com), which will add The venerable Meliá Las Américas another 900 or so rooms to the region. (& 45/66-7600; www.solmeliacuba. All three of the Meliá properties share the com) has been reserved for adults-only, delightful and luxurious new Aguas and converted to an all-inclusive regime. Claras Spa. They also have a new sushi restaurant and CAMAGÜEY & THE separate new steakhouse and grill. NORTHEASTERN COAST The former Maritim Varadero Beach In Morón, the former Carrusel Morón Resort has been taken over by the Cuban hotel is now Hotel Morón (& 33/5- Gaviota group and rechristened the Playa 2230; www.islazul.cu), having been trans- Alameda Varadero (& 45/66-8822; ferred from the Cubanacán Chain to the www.gaviota-grupo.com). It remains one Islazul chain. of the most luxurious options in Varadero. Out on Cayo Coco, the former El The Beaches Varadero was closed for Senador resort has been taken over by the an indefinite period and major remodel- NH hotel group and rechristened NH ing in 2006. It is rumored that the Sandals Krystal Laguna Villas & Resort (& 33/ hotel chain may give up its management 30-1470; www.nh-hotels.com). The mas- contract over this property. sive resort is also in the midst of an $8- million makeover. 04_945598 whatsnew.qxp 11/17/06 10:54 AM Page 3
WHAT’S NEW 3 Also, on Cayo Coco, the new Acuavida SANTIAGO DE CUBA Talasoterapia (& 33/30-2157) is a large Right in the heart of downtown Santiago, spa facility offering a wide range of spa the Hostal Basilio (& 22/65-1702) is an treatments and services. excellent new midrange hotel option. EL ORIENTE Just down the road from the Hostal Basilio, the elegant, yet inexpensive, San- The former Martim Costa Verde Beach tiago 1900 (& 22/62-3507) is a great Resort is now under management by the restaurant choice, with a variety of differ- Spanish Blau chain, and aside from the ent rooms, patios, and balcony dining minor name change to the Blau Costa areas to choose from. Verde Beach Resort (& 24/3-0510; While it’s been closed for over a year, www.blau-hotels.com), little else has it’s worth checking to see if the Bello Bar changed dramatically here. is open again on the 15th floor of the Meliá Santiago hotel. 05_945598 ch01.qxp 11/17/06 10:54 AM Page 4
1 The Best of Cuba by Eliot Greenspan & Neil E. Schlecht
Cuba is unlike any other place on earth. What draws people to this fascinating Caribbean island is much more than beaches, sun, and cheap drinks, though there are plenty of all three for those who want them. One of the last Communist-bloc nations left, it doesn’t suffer from the drab and desultory demeanor of its disappeared peers. Cuba’s rich culture, unique political history, and continued survival through ongoing economic hardship make it one of the most eye-opening countries that experienced travelers can still discover. Seeing the best of Cuba means grooving to its intoxicating music, marveling at how Cubans improvise on a daily basis to make ends meet, and visiting a land in which the past 50 years seem to have passed by in some odd sort of state of frozen animation.
1 The Best Cuban Travel Experiences • Patronizing Paladares and Casas stock up on souvenirs at the Calle Particulares: The best way to appre- Tacón market, your best one-stop ciate Cubans, as well as to have the shop in the country for this sort of opportunity to exchange ideas about stuff. See “What to See & Do” in Cuba and the outside world, is by chapter 4. stepping inside a paladar restaurant • Spending an Afternoon at the or a casa particular, the Cuban ver- Callejón de Hammel: This short sion of a simple bed-and-breakfast. alley is lined with Salvador González’s These private initiatives, heavily colorful murals and punctuated with taxed by the state, are one of the only scrap sculptures and shrines to Afro- ways Cubans have to earn badly Cuban deities. If you can make it on needed hard currency, and they offer a Sunday afternoon, you’ll be treated travelers a rewarding chance to see to a popular Afro-Cuban dance and the country beyond the state-run music celebration. See “What to See hotels and restaurants. & Do” in chapter 4. • Exploring la Habana Vieja (Old • Walking along Havana’s Malecón: Havana): No trip to Cuba is com- Your best bet is to start in Habana plete without at least a day (or more) Vieja and work your way toward the spent in Habana Vieja. The streets Hotel Nacional in Vedado. Take your and alleys of this colonial-era city cen- time to stop and sit on the sea wall ter have been immaculately restored. for a spell, and be sure to talk to some You’ll feel sucked back in time as you of the locals on your way. If you time visit the plazas, churches, and forts it right, you will reach the Hotel here. Be sure to take a break from Nacional in the late afternoon—a sightseeing and museum hopping to good time to grab a cool drink and 05_945598 ch01.qxp 11/17/06 10:54 AM Page 5
THE BEST HISTORICAL SIGHTS 5 enjoy the setting sun from their Batista dictatorship, Fidel Castro and “Compass Card” outdoor terrace. See his young comrades hid out in the “What to See & Do” in chapter 4. Sierra Maestra mountains in the late • Celebrating Las Parrandas: As the 1950s. Their small-scale rebel base end of the year rolls around, the little camp was never discovered, but visi- colonial town of Remedios gears up tors today can hike a trail through to host Las Parrandas, one of Cuba’s remote cloud forest up to Coman- grandest street parties and religious dancia de la Plata, the command post carnivals. Everything culminates on where Fidel turned a country on its Christmas Eve in an orgy of drums, head. It’s a fascinating glimpse of his- floats, and fireworks. See “Santa tory from up close. See “Bayamo & Clara” in chapter 7. the Sierra Maestra” in chapter 9. • Hopping a Steam Train to the Val- • Joining a Carnival Conga Line: In ley of the Sugar Mills: The colonial the intense heat of summer, Santiago mansions in Trinidad were built with de Cuba explodes with the island’s the riches of a booming Cuban sugar best carnival, an evocative celebration trade of the 18th and 19th centuries. of the city’s Afro-Caribbean roots. The best way to see the Valle de los Ripe with rumba music, conga pro- Ingenios, an extraordinarily lush val- cessions, booming percussion, fanci- ley once home to 60 sugar mills, is ful floats, and wild costumes, it’s a aboard a vintage 1907 American participatory party that has nothing steam train to one of the sugar to do with those cheesy conga lines estates, Manaca-Iznaga, where you people tend to do on cruise ships. See can survey the valley’s many shades of “Carnival & Other Santiago Festi- green from a fantastic tower. See vals” in chapter 10. “Trinidad” in chapter 7. • Following in Fidel’s Footsteps: Waging a guerrilla war against the
2 The Best Historical Sights • Catedral de San Cristóbal and of admission alone to stroll the Plaza de la Catedral, Havana (& 7/ rooms, outdoor courtyards, and inte- 861-7771): Havana’s cathedral and rior veranda of the former Palacio de the plaza it sits on are perhaps Old los Capitanes Generales (Palace of the Havana’s most distinctive historical Captains Generals), which houses the sites. The twin towers and worn museum. See p. 107. baroque facade of this ancient church • Parque Histórico Morro y Cabaña, are beautiful both by day and at Havana (& 7/863-7063 for El night. The small plaza it fronts is Morro, and 7/862-0617 for La an atmospheric cobblestone square Cabaña): Across the harbor from Old surrounded by perfectly restored Havana, the Morro & Cabaña His- colonial-era buildings with shops, toric Park complex is comprised of museums, galleries, and restaurants. two major forts charged with protect- See p. 107. ing Havana’s narrow and strategic • Museo de la Ciudad, Havana (& 7/ harbor entrance. There’s a lighthouse, 861-6130): Old Havana’s preemi- several museums, restored barracks, nent museum displays colonial-era batteries of cannons, and a handful of art and artifacts. It’s worth the price restaurants to explore, and a nightly 05_945598 ch01.qxp 11/17/06 10:54 AM Page 6
6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CUBA cañonazo (cannon blast) ceremony is and colonial houses with red-tile held here. See p. 114. roofs and iron window grilles, the • Cementerio de Colón, Havana understated plaza is home to a 17th- (& 7/832-1050): Columbus Ceme- century baroque church and hospital tery is an impressive collection of of the order of San Juan de Dios. See mausoleums, crypts, family chapels p. 220. and vaults, soaring sculptures, and • Museo El Chorro de Maíta, ornate gravestones. All of the dead are Guardalavaca (& 24/3-0421): Guar- laid to rest above ground, and you’ll dalavaca is in the midst of the most be awed by the surfeit of marble and important archaeological zone of sun-bleached alabaster. The whole Native American groups in Cuba. thing is laid out in an orderly grid of This small museum site is a Taíno streets. See p. 112. burial ground from the late 15th and • Monumento Ernesto Che Guevara, early 16th centuries, the biggest and Santa Clara (& 42/20-5878): Fea- finest American Indian cemetery dis- turing a huge sculpture of the revolu- covered in Cuba. The very well- tionary hero overlooking a vast plaza, preserved remains of more than 100 this place is deeply revered by members of the community reveal Cubans. Underneath the statue is a important clues about native groups museum with exhibits detailing the after the arrival of the Spanish con- life and exploits of “El Che,” as well quistadors. The museum displays as a mausoleum holding Guevara’s ceramics and objects found at the remains and the tombstones of 37 site. See “Guardalavaca” in chapter 9. other revolutionary fighters killed • Casa Velázquez (Museo de Ambi- with Guevara in Bolivia. See “Santa ente Colonial Cubano), Santiago de Clara” in chapter 7. Cuba (& 22/65-2652): Diego • Trinidad: The entire town of Velázquez founded the original seven Trinidad qualifies as a historical site. villas in Cuba, and his 1515 mansion The impeccably preserved relic— in Santiago de Cuba, the oldest house several blocks square of perfect pastel- in the country and one of the oldest colored mansions, churches, and cob- in the Americas, is still standing. blestone streets—is one of the Today it’s a museum of colonial fur- greatest collections of colonial archi- nishings from the 16th to the 19th tecture to be found anywhere in the century. Individual pieces are splen- Americas. The star among Trinidad’s did, but none manages to upstage the colonial set pieces is the Museo historical impact of the restored Romántico (& 419/4363), in an house itself. See p. 263. 18th-century mansion right on the • Castillo El Morro, Santiago de Cuba main square. See “Trinidad” in chap- (& 22/69-1569): Although nowhere ter 7. near as expansive as its sister fort in • Plaza San Juan de Dios, Camagüey Havana, this massive fortress is (& 32/29-1318): This dignified nonetheless quite impressive. You can square is the highlight of Camagüey’s almost feel a part of the history while colonial quarter, one of the largest in walking the maze-like alleyways here, Cuba with more than a dozen 16th-, and the views are wonderful as well. 17th-, and 18th-century colonial See p. 263. churches. Marked by cobblestones 05_945598 ch01.qxp 11/17/06 10:54 AM Page 7
THE BEST OUTDOOR ADVENTURES 7
3 The Best of Natural Cuba • The Viñales Valley: This broad, flat mountains of the Sierra del Escam- valley is punctuated by a series of bray lurk on the outskirts of Trinidad, limestone karst hill formations, or and the Topes de Collantes National mogotes. The views from the small Park is a lovely, cool refuge from the mountains surrounding the valley are town’s stone streets. It’s great for hik- spectacular. The area offers great ing, with several well-established opportunities for hiking, mountain trails, the best of which culminate in biking, bird-watching, and rock refreshing waterfalls. See “Trinidad” climbing, as well as caves to explore. in chapter 7. See “Viñales” in chapter 5. • Baracoa: Cuba’s first settlement, • Las Terrazas: This planned eco- overlooking a beautiful oyster-shaped tourism project is set amid the Sierra bay, remains a natural paradise, with del Rosario Biosphere Reserve. There thick tropical vegetation, 10 rivers, are a host of trails and attractions and a distinctive flat-topped moun- here, including lakes, swimming tain called El Yunque, a UNESCO holes, a zip-line canopy tour, and Biosphere Reserve that beckons hik- even some sulfur springs. The bird- ers. Travelers into rafting, beaches, watching is excellent. See “Sierra del and boating will also find ample Rosario Biosphere Reserve & San opportunities to explore this isolated Diego de los Baños” in chapter 5. area. See “Baracoa” in chapter 9. • Parque Nacional Ciénaga de Zap- • Sierra Maestra: The highest and ata: The Zapata Swamp National longest mountain range in Cuba, the Park is a massive expanse of man- Sierra Maestra is full of lore for groves, swamp, and wetlands housing Cubans—it’s where Fidel Castro and an abundant variety of flora and his band of rebels hid out and waged fauna. The area is a mecca for bird- guerilla warfare against the Batista watchers, naturalists, and anglers. government in the 1950s. Stretching Your best bet for exploring the park is across three provinces, its peaks are Playa Larga, a simple beach resort almost on top of the rocky southern area catering to scuba divers. See coastline. The Gran Parque Nacional “The Zapata Peninsula & Playa Sierra Maestra and Parque Nacional Girón” in chapter 6. de Turquino are perfect for hikers and • Parque Nacional Topes de Col- nature lovers. See “Bayamo & the lantes: The dense pine-covered Sierra Maestra” in chapter 9.
4 The Best Outdoor Adventures • Landing a Marlin or Sailfish: If you marinas with modern, well-equipped really want to emulate Ernest Hem- sport-fishing fleets all around Cuba’s ingway, you’ll head out to sea to fish. coastline. The waters off Cuba’s coast are excel- • Rock Climbing the Mogotes of the lent for sport fishing year-round. Big Viñales Valley: Although in its game fish are best sought off the infancy, this is a rapidly developing northern coast, while bonefish and sport in Cuba, and this area is the tarpon are better stalked off the place to come and climb. Over 60 southern coast. Marinas Puertosol routes and 100 pitches have been (www.cubanacan.cu) runs a string of marked and climbed, and more 05_945598 ch01.qxp 11/17/06 10:54 AM Page 8
8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CUBA climbs are constantly being uncov- Cayo Coco and Cayo Guillermo ered. See “Viñales” in chapter 5. (see chapter 8) and Baracoa (see • Scuba Diving at María la Gorda: chapter 9). Cuba has many excellent dive desti- • Hiking and Rafting in Baracoa: nations, but María la Gorda probably Baracoa, long isolated by impenetra- edges out the rest by offering consis- ble tropical vegetation, steep moun- tently excellent conditions, a variety tains, and rushing rivers, is an of sites, an amazing setting, and an adventurer’s dream. El Yunque, a excellent dive operation. However, curiously flat-topped limestone there’s excellent diving off of much of mountain, is home to dozens of bird Cuba’s coast, and if you want to com- species, orchids, and unique tropical bine diving with other attractions plants and forest; it’s also great for you can do so from just about any climbing. The Río Toa, the widest destination on the island. See “María river in Cuba, is one of the few spots la Gorda” in chapter 5. in Cuba for white-water rafting. See • Bird-Watching in the Zapata “Baracoa” in chapter 9. Peninsula: A dedicated (and lucky) • Hiking Pico Turquino: Pico Tur- bird-watcher might be able to spot 18 quino, tucked within the celebrated of Cuba’s 24 endemic species in the Sierra Maestra National Park, is the swamps, mangroves, and wetlands of highest peak in Cuba at just under the Zapata Peninsula. In addition to 2,000m (6,560 ft.). The trail to the the endemics, ornithologists and lay summit is swathed in cloud forest bird-watchers can spot over 100 and tropical flora. Mountaineers in other varieties of shore birds, tran- good physical condition can do the sients, and waterfowl in this rich, 15km (9-mile) round-trip journey in wild region. See “The Zapata Penin- a day, but most camp overnight sula & Playa Girón” in chapter 6. below the summit. The panoramic Other top bird-watching destinations views of the coast and Caribbean Sea include La Güira National Park (see are breathtaking. See “Bayamo & the chapter 5), as well as the areas around Sierra Maestra” in chapter 9.
5 The Best Beaches • Playa Paraíso and Playa Sirena: • Varadero: This is Cuba’s premier These two connected beaches are the beach resort destination, and it ranks most outstanding of the uniformly right up there with the best in the spectacular beaches that stretch the Caribbean. We personally prefer some length of Cayo Largo del Sur. of the island’s less developed stretches Located on the more protected west- of sand. But if you’re looking for a ern end of the island, these two well-run all-inclusive resort loaded beaches are broad expanses of glisten- with amenities and activity options, ing, fine white sand, bordering the Varadero is a good choice. Oh yeah, clear Caribbean Sea. There’s a simple the 21km (13 miles) of nearly unin- beachside restaurant on Playa Paraíso, terrupted beach here are fabulous. See and not much else here—and that’s a “Varadero” in chapter 6. large part of their charm. See “Cayo • Playa Ensenachos and Playa Largo del Sur” in chapter 5. Megano: Located on the tiny islet of 05_945598 ch01.qxp 11/17/06 10:54 AM Page 9
THE BEST RESORT HOTELS 9 Cayo Ensenachos, which is part of la man-made causeway, are tantalizingly Cayería del Norte, these protected tucked into shallow waters that flow crescents of sand drop off very gently, into the Atlantic. There’s barely a sign allowing bathers to wade 90m (300 of the “real Cuba,” but what you do feet) or more out into the calm, crys- get is stunningly unspoiled beaches, tal clear waters. You’ll have to shell out excellent diving, and a full contingent big bucks to visit these beaches, either of watersports. See “Cayo Coco & staying at the Occidental Royal Cayo Guillermo” in chapter 8. Hideaway Ensenachos or paying • Cayo Sabinal: If it’s seclusion and their hefty day-use fee. Both of these pristine nature you’re after, find your beaches are jaw-droppingly beautiful, way to this small cay on the north- but we slightly prefer Playa Megano. eastern coast. It has brilliant beaches See “Santa Clara” in chapter 7. protected by stunning coral reefs and • Playa Ancón: A wonderful white- almost no facilities to speak of. With sand beach and close runner-up to its rich flora and fauna, Cayo Sabinal the more spectacular beaches of is an eco-tourist’s dreamland. See Cuba, attractive Ancón has one huge “Camagüey” in chapter 8. advantage: It’s just minutes from one • Guardalavaca: Probably Cuba’s pret- of the country’s true treasures, tiest resort area, Guardalavaca is a hot Trinidad, and perfectly positioned for spot, but not overheated like those who’d like a bit of colonial cul- Varadero. The area, a prime archaeo- ture with their sun and sand (or vice logical zone of pre-Columbian Cuba, versa). With good diving and one is one of lush tropical vegetation, very nice resort hotel, it’s sure to be brilliant white sands, and clear built up soon. See “Trinidad” in turquoise waters. Long stretches of chapter 7. coastline are interrupted by charming • Cayos Coco and Guillermo: These little cove beaches, and some of tiny cays off the north coast, separated Cuba’s finest resort hotels are here. from the Cuban mainland by a long See “Guardalavaca” in chapter 9.
6 The Best Resort Hotels • Paradisus Varadero, Varadero (& 45/ are quite spacious and well equipped. 66-8700): This is the Sol Meliá’s fan- The children’s pools and play area are ciest resort hotel in Varadero, with the best in Cuba. See p. 163. expansive grounds, a huge free-form • Meliá Cayo Santa María, Cayo Santa pool, and all the activities and ameni- María (& 42/35-0500): This new ties you could hope for. There’s a vari- resort is yet another of the Sol Meliá’s ety of dining options, and overall, excellent all-inclusive properties. This they manage to create the feel of an one is located on a very beautiful and intimate, romantic getaway better very isolated patch of beach in la Cay- than any of the other large resort ería del Norte. The facilities are cer- hotels in Varadero. See p. 161. tainly top-notch, and the setting is • Tryp Península Varadero, Varadero just spectacular. See p. 177. (& 45/66-8800): This is my top • Brisas Trinidad del Mar, Península choice for a family resort in Varadero Ancón, Trinidad (& 419/6500): This and an excellent all-around resort in resort hotel on Playa Ancón has excel- its own right. The setting, facilities, lent sea and mountain views and is and service are all tops, and the rooms only minutes from the most beautiful 05_945598 ch01.qxp 11/17/06 10:54 AM Page 10
10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CUBA colonial city in Cuba. The well-con- bungalow-style rooms are perfect for a ceived design echoes the handsome younger crowd. See p. 212. architecture of Trinidad. See p. 193. • Paradisus Río de Oro, Playa Esmer- • Meliá Cayo Coco, Cayo Coco alda (& 24/3-0090). Perhaps Cuba’s (& 33/30-1180): Of the several fine most sybaritic all-inclusive resort hotels on Cayo Coco, Sol Meliá’s top hotel, this sprawling Sol Meliá prop- property on the cays is the most erty hugs a rocky cliff and is distin- sophisticated and stylish, with cool guished by some of the most bungalows overlooking a natural luxuriously designed grounds you’ll lagoon, elegant decor throughout, find anywhere. Rooms are large, good restaurants, a beautiful pool refined, and private. Sunbathers will area, and a great stretch of beach on a have a hard time deciding between natural cove. See p. 211. the terrific main beach, the nearly • Sol Cayo Guillermo, Cayo Guillermo private small cove beaches, and the (& 33/30-1760): Relaxed and unpre- extraordinary pool area. Not to men- tentious, this lively resort hotel is less tion the massage hut that hangs out staid and pre-packaged than many of from the cliff over the sea. See p. 233. the big hotels on the cays. The cheery
7 The Best Hotels • Hotel Florida, Havana (& 7/862- Havana has to offer, and has plenty of 4127): This is probably my favorite restaurants, bars, and clubs of its of the Habaguanex properties in Old own, including the very popular Havana. The building features a won- Habana Café. See p. 91. derful open-air central courtyard, • Hotel Los Jazmines, Viñales (& 8/ checkerboard marble floors, and 79-6205): With a spectacular setting oodles of colonial-era charm. The on a hillside overlooking the Viñales whole operation is elegant and Valley, this is hands down the best refined, and located right on the option in town. If you land one of the pulse of things on busy Calle Obispo. third-floor rooms with a balcony, See p. 86. you’ll forgive the somewhat smallish • Hotel Saratoga, Havana (& 7/868- rooms and minimal amenities. Los 1000): Set right on the Paseo del Jazmines makes a great base for Prado, with stunning views of El exploring this region. See p. 134. Capitolio from many of its rooms, • Gran Hotel Iberostar Trinidad, this new hotel has the most comfort- Trinidad (& 419/6073): This new able and luxurious rooms of any hotel hotel has seriously upped the bar in in or near Habana Vieja. Add to that terms of comfort and luxury in a wonderful rooftop pool and bar, Trinidad. Set fronting a quiet little and this hotel is clearly one of the top park in the heart of downtown, this is choices in the city. See p. 87. clearly the top high-end choice in • Meliá Cohiba, Havana (& 7/833- Trinidad. See p. 191. 3636): Towering over the Malecón, • Hotel La Unión, Cienfuegos this modern high-rise hotel offers (& 432/55-1020): Housed in a mar- excellent comfort, service, and ameni- velously restored colonial mansion ties. Most of the rooms have fantastic right in the heart of downtown Cien- views of the sea. The hotel is close to fuegos, this is one of the nicest all of the action and attractions 05_945598 ch01.qxp 11/17/06 10:54 AM Page 11
THE BEST CASAS PARTICULARES 11 boutique hotels in the country. With with newly restored historical touches, a couple of interior courtyards, neo- the charming Colón has a beautiful classical furnishings, and architec- antique dark-wood lobby bar, a pretty tural touches, La Unión captures the interior patio, and very nicely elegance and charm of Cuba’s bygone appointed rooms, all for little more era. It’s worth the small splurge for than a casa particular. See p. 222. one of the spacious junior suites. See • Hotel El Castillo, Baracoa (& 21/4- p. 183. 5195): This hotel has history, charm, • Hostal del Rijo, Sancti Spíritus and a location to die for. Inside the (& 41/2-8588): The concept of walls of one of the town’s oldest small boutique hotels with historic fortresses, up on a hill where the pool character is catching on in Cuba, and comes with splendid panoramic this boutique hotel in unassuming views of Baracoa and the bay, this is Sancti Spíritus is among the best of the kind of place you won’t want to its kind in the country. In a beauti- leave. Relaxed and unpretentious, it fully restored colonial mansion, it has suits Baracoa perfectly. See p. 252. massive rooms with restrained decor, • Hotel Casa Granda, Santiago de and it just might rank as the best Cuba (& 22/65-3021): It’s not San- hotel bargain in Cuba. See p. 202. tiago’s biggest or most expensive • Gran Hotel, Camagüey (& 32/29- hotel, but the Casa Granda, in an ele- 2093): In the heart of Camagüey’s gant landmark building on Parque colonial quarter, this 1930s hotel has Céspedes in the heart of the city, is real old-world character, a selection the place to stay if you want to be in of atmospheric bars, and a terrace the heady mix that is the Oriente pool. The Gran Hotel offers tons of region’s capital. Renovation has dra- style at a bargain price—especially if matically improved the rooms, and you get one of the spacious corner the terrific terrace bars are among the rooms. See p. 221. best people-watching places in the • Hotel Colón, Camagüey (& 32/28- city. See p. 268. 3346): A stylish 1920s midsize hotel
8 The Best Casas Particulares • Casa Particular Sandelis , Havana fixer-upper, but don’t worry, you’ll be (& 7/832-4422): Located just across pampered here and not pressed into from the Hotel Nacional, this is prac- service. See p. 184. tically the most prestigious address in • Hostal Casa Múñoz, Trinidad Vedado—at a fraction of the cost. (& 419/3673): Historic Trinidad is The hosts are helpful and friendly, well-stocked with beautiful colonial and you even get an ocean view from houses renting out rooms, but this the apartment’s sixth-floor terrace. one is distinguished not only by its See p. 94. impressive rooms and ever-expanding • Casa Ana María, Cienfuegos facilities, but also its gregarious and (& 432/51-3269): Located right on informative host, a photographer the water, you get bay views from who knows Trinidad like the back of each of the two rooms here, and his hand. See p. 193. there’s also a wonderful shared court- • La Pantera, Sancti Spíritus (& 41/ yard which opens to the water. The 2-5435): A handsome early-19th- home is a charming, colonial-era century house with marble pillars and 05_945598 ch01.qxp 11/17/06 10:54 AM Page 12
12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CUBA high ceilings, this breezy private rooms are large and comfortable, and homestay has large rooms, very your host is a charm. See p. 253. friendly live-in owners, and good, • Casa Hugo & Adela, Santiago de filling meals. See p. 203. Cuba (& 22/62-6359): Most of San- • Casa Xiomara & Rodolfo, Cama- tiago’s best casas are in the leafy outer güey (& 32/28-1948): Like having neighborhoods, but if you want to be your own house in Camagüey, this in the thick of Santiago, with a com- huge and very well-maintained apart- fortable room and a huge private ment offers a full kitchen, dining rooftop terrace overlooking the old room, TV room, and a backyard ter- city and harbor, grab this room. See race—and total privacy. It’s consider- p. 268. ably bigger and better equipped than • Casa Asensio, Santiago de Cuba most hotel rooms in Cuba. See p. 221. (& 22/62-4600): Facility-wise, this • Casa La Colina, Baracoa (& 21/4- house may be unrivaled in Cuba. It’s 3477): One of the things that makes a very large apartment with its own Baracoa so extraordinary is its spectac- kitchen and a massive, private ular natural setting, and this hand- rooftop terrace. It’s perfect for anyone some house has a fantastic terrace with planning to stay a while to explore panoramic views of the entire town Santiago de Cuba and the surround- and the bay leading out to the sea. The ing area in depth. See p. 270.
9 The Best Restaurants & Paladares • Café del Oriente, Havana (& 7/ • Roof Garden Restaurant, Havana 860-6686): Arguably the most ele- (& 7/860-8560): The creative gant restaurant and cafe in Habana French-inspired menu and stunning Vieja, this place serves well-prepared setting make this probably the best and creative international fare in a high-end dining option in Havana. beautiful room just off the Plaza San Try for a window table on the ele- Francisco. When the weather is nice, vated area ringing the restaurant. See you can even sit at an outdoor table p. 100. right on the plaza. See p. 99. • La Cocina de Lilliam, Havana • La Bodeguita del Medio, Havana (& 7/209-6514): Lilliam Domínguez (& 7/867-1374): This classic joint is has raised the bar for paladares around a must for any visitor to Cuba. The Havana. Her delicious criolla cooking criolla cuisine is excellently prepared, always makes the most of whatever and it’s an understatement to say the ingredients are locally available, and ambience is lively. Go ahead and have her softly lit garden setting is stun- a mojito, but get one made with ning. See p. 104. añejo rum. See p. 99. • La Fonda de Mercedes, Las Terrazas • La Guarida, Havana (& 7/862- (& 8/77-8647): Working out of her 4940): Atmosphere, fame, good apartment’s simple kitchen, Doña food, and good times all combine in Mercedes Dache serves up wonder- equal measure at perhaps the most fully prepared criolla cuisine. Meals are famous paladar in Cuba. The walk up served on large tables in an open-air the rickety steps to this third-floor terrace overlooking a mountain lake. private restaurant is an experience in If you come to Las Terrazas, don’t leave itself. See p. 102. without eating here. See p. 138. 05_945598 ch01.qxp 11/17/06 10:54 AM Page 13
THE BEST CUBAN NIGHTLIFE 13 • Paladar Estela, Trinidad (& 419/ service and a changing menu with 4329): A colonial house with a pretty several fresh fish dishes. See p. 254. garden patio dining area, this private • Restaurant El Morro, Santiago de home restaurant in the heart of the Cuba (& 22/68-7151): Perched historic quarter of Trinidad serves along the cliff next to the El Morro epic proportions of well-prepared fortress, with spectacular views of the Cuban specialties. The friendly own- Caribbean, this popular open-air ers also rent a room. See p. 194. restaurant is a good-value lunch spot. • La Campana de Toledo, Camagüey There are plenty of fish dishes and a (& 32/29-5888): Located on one of fixed-price midday deal, all served the most authentic and elegant colo- under a canopy of hanging plants nial squares in Cuba, this handsome, that helps patrons beat the heat. See rustic restaurant with a pretty patio is p. 272. a great spot for a midday break from • ZunZún, Santiago de Cuba (& 22/ the heat or a relaxed dinner. Dishes 64-1528): One of the few upscale are more imaginative than the basic dining experiences in eastern Cuba, Cuban fare at most state-run estab- this elegant restaurant has several lishments. See p. 223. small, private dining rooms scattered • La Colonial, Baracoa (& 21/4- throughout a large 1940s house in 5391): The government seems to one of Santiago de Cuba’s most pleas- support the competition of private ant suburbs. Attention to detail and restaurants only nominally, and this presentation—dining elements sel- is the last surviving paladar in Bara- dom given much thought in Cuba— coa. The nicely decorated colonial are a welcome surprise. It’s best house easily outclasses the state-run known for its top-quality seafood. options in town, and it has good See p. 271.
10 The Best of Cuban Nightlife • Tropicana, Havana (& 7/267-1010): which can range from sultry boleros This is the original and still reigning to up-tempo jazz. A storyteller, poet, cabaret show in Cuba. The Tropicana or comedian might perform between has been at it for over 60 years and it sets. See p. 124. shows no signs of slowing down. The • La Zorra y El Cuervo, Havana sea of lithe dancers, the exuberance of (& 7/833-2402): This is Havana’s their costumes, and the sheer excess of best jazz club, and that’s saying a lot. it all is worth the trip. It all occurs The vibe is mellow and unpreten- under the stars in the shadow of tall tious in this compact basement club, overhanging trees. There’s a second but the music and acts are usually Tropicana in Matanzas for visitors to culled from the best Cuba has to Varadero, and another in Santiago. See offer. See p. 124. p. 123. • Habana Café, Havana (& 7/833- • El Gato Tuerto, Havana (& 7/55- 3636, ext 2630) and Varadero (& 45/ 2696): The mood is dark and 66-8070): Mix the Tropicana with a bohemian, although the decor mixes Hard Rock Cafe, and Habana Café is Art Deco and kitsch in equal meas- more or less what you’d get. The floor ure. The nightly show usually fea- show is a mix of cabaret-style dance tures three or four distinct acts, numbers and slightly burlesque 05_945598 ch01.qxp 11/17/06 10:54 AM Page 14
14 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CUBA comedic bits, all anchored by a top- • Casa de la Trova, Camagüey and notch big band. After the show, the Santiago de Cuba: Perhaps the coun- dance floor swings and writhes for try’s two best Casas de la Trova, the hours. See p. 123 and 165. traditional Cuban live-music spots, • Discoteca Las Cuevas, north of are in Camagüey and Santiago de Viñales (& 8/79-6290): With a good Cuba. Camagüey’s Casa is agreeably sound system and lights bouncing off low-key, while Santiago’s is legendary, the stalactites, this is by far the best having given birth to dozens of party spot in the Viñales Valley. See Cuba’s most respected musicians and “Viñales” in chapter 5. bands. Both are great places to mix • Trinidad: Trinidad’s popularity has with locals, try out some dance ensured a steady menu of live-music moves, and sip a mojito. See “Cam- offerings. Cuban bands play under agüey” in chapter 8 and p. 224 in the stars on the steps of the Casa de chapter 10. la Música until more energetic danc- • Calle Antonio Maceo, Baracoa: Tiny ing and music get underway inside. Baracoa rocks at night with its own The local Casa de la Trova also has a little version of Bourbon Street. Peo- nightly roster of traditional Cuban ple spill out of a half-dozen cafes, bands, and even small, relaxed spots bars, and live-music venues, shifting like the patio bars La Canchánchara gears from traditional trova to son and and Ruinas de Segarte feature live dance music to full-throttle dance son. If that’s too traditional, then club. Amiable emcees entertain audi- check out La Cueva, a funky dance ences with romantic poetry and club in a cave. See “Trinidad” in humor. See “Baracoa” in chapter 9. chapter 7.
11 The Best of Cuba Online • http://lanic.utexas.edu/la/cb/cuba: information sites on Cuba. It’s got an Hosted by the University of Texas English-language mirror of the prin- Latin American Studies Department, cipal site, as well as a good search this site houses a vast collection of engine and easy links to an online information about Cuba. This is version of the Cuban telephone book. hands down the best one-stop shop • www.casaparticular.info: We find for Web browsing. this the best of the clearinghouse sites • www.cubanacan.cu: Cubanacán is for casas particulares. It has lots of probably the largest state-run tourism links to casas in the main tourist des- company, with hotels, transportation, tinations around Cuba. and receptive tourism arms. They • www.cubamania.com: This site is a also have the best developed website lively, sometimes conflictive and con- of the handful of state-run agencies, troversial, forum site for all things although that’s not necessarily saying Cuba. But there’s plenty of good much. information to be had here. • www.cubasi.cu: CubaSi is the best of the state-sponsored, all-purpose 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 15
2 Planning Your Trip to Cuba by Eliot Greenspan
Cuba is probably the most intensely diverse island destination in the Caribbean, offering everything from standard fun-in-the-sun beach resort getaways to colonial city circuits, myriad land and sea adventure opportunities, tobacco and classic-car theme tours, and a wide array of cultural and artistic opportunities. There’s a lot to see and do in Cuba, and most travelers will have to carefully pick and choose. This chap- ter will provide you with the necessary information and guidance to help you plan your perfect trip to Cuba.
1 The Regions in Brief Cuba is the westernmost and largest of museums, antique buildings, old forts, the entire chain of Caribbean islands, the Malecón seaside promenade, and located at the convergence of the modern restaurants, clubs, and cabarets, Caribbean Sea, the Gulf of Mexico, and Havana is one of the liveliest and most the Atlantic Ocean just 145km (90 miles) engaging cities in Latin America. Just east south of Florida. They say that Cuba—if of the city center are some 15km (10 you use your imagination—looks some- miles) of very respectable white-sand thing like a crocodile: The head is in the beach, the Playas del Este. While east, a line of small islands form the ridges nowhere near as stunning as some of along its back, the Sierra Maestra national Cuba’s more celebrated beach destina- park forms the front legs, the Zapata tions, the Playas del Este are certainly a Peninsula forms the rear legs, and Pinar suitable alternative, either as a base for del Río province is the tail. Cuba is in fact exploring Havana or as an easily accessi- a closely linked string of archipelagos, ble place for some sun, sand, and sea. made up of over 4,000 separate little VIÑALES & WESTERN CUBA Com- islands and cays. prising the province of Pinar del Río, west- Cuba’s two major cities, Havana and ern Cuba is a wonderfully rustic region of Santiago de Cuba, are port cities with farms and forests, flanked by some beauti- large protected harbors. Most of the ful and relatively underpopulated beaches. island’s other principal cities lie along its The only real city in the province, Pinar centerline, either right on or just off the del Río, is of limited interest on its own, Autopista Nacional (National Hwy.), the but it serves as a gateway to Viñales and country’s principal trade and transporta- the Vuelta Abajo, Cuba’s premiere tion route. tobacco-growing and cigar-manufacturing HAVANA & PLAYAS DEL ESTE region. Just north of Pinar del Río, Viñales Havana is Cuba’s capital and the coun- is a pretty little hamlet in an even prettier try’s most important cultural, political, valley, surrounded by stunning karst hill and economic hub. With a wealth of formations. Viñales is Cuba’s prime 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 16
16 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO CUBA The Regions in Brief
Gulf of Mexico See chapter 6 See chapter 4 A r c h i p i é l a g o d e (Ja S a HavanaHavana MatanzasMatanzas rdin b a VaraderoVaradero es d n a MarielMariel el See chapter 5 Mariel Re C BahíaBahBahía CárdenasCárdenasrdenas y) a m LALA HABANAHABANA a HondaHonda JovellanosJovellanos SaguaSagua LaLa GrandeGrande g ü ArtemisaArtemisa SanSan AntonioAntonio GüinesGüinesines e y ColónColColón dede loslos BañosBaBañosos MATANZASM ATA N Z A S ViñalesViViñaalesles PINARPINAR SANTASANTA CLARACLARA DELDEL RÍORÍO JagüeyJagJagüeyey Caibarién PinarPinar GrandeGrande SantaSanta ClaraClara deldel RíoRío Bahí PARQUEPARQUE NACIONALNACIONAL a P Golfo de CIENFUEGOSCIENFUEGOS err Golfo de PENÍNSULAPENPENÍNNSULASULA DEDE ZAPATAZAPATA PlacetasPlacetas os Guanahacabibes LaLa FeFe LaLa ColomaColoma Batabanó CienfuegosCienfuegos Morón A NuevaNueva GeronaGerona r c Bahía de CIEGO DE Cayos de h i p SANCTISANCTI Sancti i é la Cochinos SPÍRITUSSPSPÍRITUSRITUS ÁVILA MaríaMarMaría San Felipe g o d Spíritus e los Canarreos (Bay of Pigs) lala GordaGorda IslaIsla dede lala TrinidadTrinidad Ciego de Ávila JuventudJuventud See chapter 5 Cayo Largo Florida Nuevitas See chapter 7 C A M A G Ü E Y Camagüey Golfo de Vertientes Puerto Padre Ana María L A S T U N A S Holguín Banes Santa Cruz Las Tunas del Sur H O L G U ÍN Moa Caribbean Mayarí Golfo de Sagua de Bayamo Tánamo Baracoa Sea Guacanayabo Maisí G UA N T Á N A M O Manzanillo G R A N M A S A N T I AG O D E C U B A Guantánamo Niquero Santiago de Cuba Marea del Portillo
0 50 mi N CAYMAN ISLANDS 0 50 km (U.K.)
eco-tourist destination, with great oppor- some 21km (13 miles) of nearly uninter- tunities for hiking, bird-watching, moun- rupted white-sand beach, Varadero is tain biking, and cave exploration. On the Cuba’s quintessential sun-and-fun desti- far western tip of the island sits the tiny nation, with a host of luxurious all- resort of María la Gorda, arguably home inclusive resorts strung along the length to the best of Cuba’s overall excellent scuba of this narrow peninsula. In addition to diving. Lying off the southern coast of this Varadero, Matanzas province is home to region in the Caribbean Sea are the island the beautiful colonial-era cities of Matan- destinations of Isla de la Juventud, yet zas and Cárdenas. another of Cuba’s premiere scuba diving In the southern section of the province destinations, and Cayo Largo del Sur, is the Ciénaga de Zapata, a vast wetlands another long stretch of dazzling and iso- area of mangrove and swamp, renowned lated white sand. for its wildlife viewing, bird-watching, VARADERO & MATANZAS PROV- and fishing opportunities. This is also INCE Matanzas is Cuba’s second-largest where you’ll find the Bahía de Cochinos province and home to its most important (Bay of Pigs), where the nascent Cuban beach destination, Varadero. Boasting 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 17
THE REGIONS IN BRIEF 17
B A H A Havana Matanzas Varadero Mariel M Cárdenas C a C Bahía m a m LA HABANA a a A Honda Jovellanos Sagua La Grande g ü g See chapter 8 San Antonio Güines e ü Cayo Artemisa y e y de los Baños Colón Guillermo S Viñales PINAR M ATA N Z A S ATLANTIC Jagüey SANTA CLARA CaibariénCaibariCaibarién Cayo Coco Pinar DEL RÍO Grande Santa Clara Cayo Romano OCEAN del Río Bahí PARQUE NACIONAL a P CIENFUEGOS err PENÍNSULA DE ZAPATA Placetas os La Fe La Coloma Cienfuegos MorónMorMorón Nueva Gerona SANCTI SanctiSancti CIEGOCIEGO DEDE SPÍRITUS SpíritusSpSpíritusritus ÁVILAÁVILAVILA María Cayo Sabinal la Gorda Isla de la Trinidad CiegoCiego dede ÁvilaÁvilavila Juventud FloridaFlorida NuevitasNuevitas See chapter 9 CAMAGÜEYCAMAGC A M A G Ü EYE Y See chapter 7 CamagüeyCamagCamagüeyey GolfoGolfo ddee VertientesVertientes PuertoPuerto PadrePadre Guardalavaca AnaAna MaríaMaría See chapter 8 LASL A S TUNAST U N A S A BanesBanes r HolguínHolguHolguín ch Cayo Saetí ip SantaSanta CruzCruz LasLas TunasTunas ié la deldel SurSur HOLGUÍNHOLGUH O L G U Í N MoaMoa d go e de la lo MayaríMayarMayarí Re s J SaguaSagua dede ina ard GolfoGolfo dede ine BayamoBayamo TánamoTánamonamo BaracoaBaracoa s GuacanayaboGuacanayabo MaisíMaisMaisí GUANTÁNAMOGUANTG UA N T Á NAMON A M O ManzanilloManzanillo GRANMAG R A N M A SANTIAGOS A N T I AG O DED E CUBAC U B A GuantánamoGuantGuantánamonamo NiqueroNiquero M A E S T R A R R A SantiagoSantiago S I E dede CubaCuba MareaMarea deldel PortilloPortillo Guantánamo GUANTÁNAMO Bay U.S. NAVAL BASE
See chapter 10
revolutionary state defeated an invasion maintained and restored buildings set on force trained, supplied, and abetted by the winding cobblestone streets. The cities of United States. The beaches of Playa Santa Clara, Cienfuegos, and Sancti Girón and Playa Larga serve as a base for Spíritus are considered lesser lights on access to some of Cuba’s best scuba diving. the tourism circuit, but all offer ample TRINIDAD & CENTRAL CUBA charms in their own rights. Santa Clara is Beginning with the provinces of Villa a lively university town, and is considered Clara and Cienfuegos, and including the the “City of Che Guevara,” with its mas- neighboring province of Sancti Spíritus, sive memorial to the fallen revolutionary central Cuba is the start of the country’s leader. To the north of Santa Clara lie the rural heartland. Vast regions of sugar tiny colonial city of Remedios and the cane, tobacco, and cattle ranges spread up-and-coming beach resorts of la Cay- out on either side of the Autopista ería del Norte. Cienfuegos is a charming Nacional, which more or less bisects this port town with the country’s second- region as it heads east. longest seaside promenade. Sancti Spíri- Trinidad is perhaps Cuba’s quintessen- tus is one of the original seven villas of tial colonial-era gem, with beautifully Cuba, with some wonderful old historic 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 18
18 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO CUBA churches and buildings, and a more natu- Maestra, a mecca for naturalists and ral feel than you’ll find in other more adventure travelers as well as those look- touristy towns. ing to follow in the revolutionary foot- CAMAGÜEY & NORTHEASTERN steps of Fidel and Che, and the beautiful CUBA This section of mainland Cuba beaches of Guardalavaca, yet another of is little more than a string of rural towns Cuba’s premier beach resort destinations, and small cities, anchored by two colo- with unimaginably fine white sand and nial-era cities. This is Cuba at its quietest, calm turquoise waters. Of the cities here, stuck in time and in no rush to break free. only Santiago de Cuba is a tourist draw in However, off the northern coast here lie a its own right, although visitors to Hol- series of modern beach resorts built on guín, Bayamo, or Baracoa will experi- long stretches of soft and silvery white ence Cuba at its most authentic. sand, connected to the mainland by a SANTIAGO DE CUBA This is Cuba’s long narrow causeway that seems to second city. Set between the Sierra Maes- barely skirt the surface of the sea. The sis- tra mountains and the sea, Santiago is a ter resort islands of Cayo Coco and Cayo beautiful and vibrant city with a rich Guillermo are two of the finest and most artistic and cultural heritage. Santiago is popular resort destinations in Cuba. Sev- considered the heart of Cuba’s Afro- eral lesser developed beach resorts stretch Cuban and Afro-Caribbean heritage, east along the coast on the string of which is expressed in the music, dance, islands making up the Archipiélago de and religion you’ll find here. Santiago’s Camagüey, better known as the Jardines Carnival celebrations are by far the best del Rey (King’s Gardens). The cities of in Cuba, and some of the best in the Ciego de Avila and Camagüey are sel- entire Caribbean. dom explored colonial-era cities. The lat- The city itself has a beautiful colonial- ter, in particular, has loads of charms and era center and a host of interesting muse- attractions, and is being restored to high- ums and attractions, including José light much of its former glory. Martí’s tomb and mausoleum, the origi- EL ORIENTE For most of the coun- nal Bacardí rum factory, and the impres- try’s history, the whole eastern end of sive Castillo del Morro protecting the Cuba was known as El Oriente. Today, it city’s harbor. Nearby sites worth visiting is comprised of four separate provinces: include the El Cobre shrine to the island’s Holguín, Granma, Santiago de Cuba, and patron saint, La Virgin de Caridad, and Guantánamo. This is a large region with a the Gran Piedra, a massive rock outcrop- host of gorgeous natural attractions, high- ping offering great hiking and views. lighted by the mountains of the Sierra
2 Visitor Information Tourism is Cuba’s number-one source of Havanatur, or Cubatur. No matter the hard currency, and the government is bureau, the focus is almost entirely on actively involved in promoting tourism organized tours, but they can also give internationally. As a result, there’s a fairly you some basic information. Agencies to decent network of tourism boards and contact include Cuba Tourist Board agencies in major cities around the world. Canada, 1200 Bay St., Suite 305, Some offices are run by the Ministry of Toronto M5R 2A5 (& 416/362-0700; Tourism, others by one of the major www.gocuba.ca), or 2075, rue University, state-run agencies like Cubanacán, Bureau 460, Montreal H3A 2L1 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 19
VISITOR INFORMATION 19
Destination Cuba: Red Alert Checklist
• Cuba is one of the few remaining Communist nations in the world, and its international relations are often strained. Be sure to check with your local Cuban consulate or embassy about current visa and travel requirements. • United States citizens are severely restricted in their ability to travel to Cuba. Check the information at the U.S. State Department website (http://travel.state.gov) regarding Cuba, as well as the more in-depth description of entry requirements listed below. • Do you have the address and phone number of your country’s embassy or consulate with you? • Do any theater, restaurant, or travel reservations need to be booked in advance? • Did you find out your daily ATM withdrawal limit? Did you check with your bank to see if your credit or debit card will work in Cuba? • Do you have your credit card PINs? • To check in at a kiosk with an e-ticket, do you have the credit card you bought your ticket with or a frequent-flier card? • If you purchased traveler’s checks, have you recorded the check numbers, and stored the documentation separately from the checks? • Did you pack your camera, an extra set of camera batteries, and enough film? • Do you have a safe, accessible place to store money? • Did you bring emergency drug prescriptions and extra glasses and/or con- tact lenses? • Did you leave a copy of your itinerary with someone at home? • Did you stop the newspaper and mail delivery, and leave a set of keys with someone reliable? • Do you have the measurements for those people you plan to buy clothes for on your trip?
(& 514/875-8004); Cuba Tourist Board The Cuban government sponsors a Great Britain, 154 Shaftesbury Ave., 1st number of websites, including Cuba Floor, London WC2H 8HL (& 0207/ Travel (www.cubatravel.cu), CubaSi 240-6655; [email protected]); and, (www.cubasi.cu), and Directorio Turís- in the United States, the Cuban Interests tico de Cuba (www.dtcuba.com). All Section (& 202/797-8518; cubaseccion@ offer a fair quantity of travel-related prodigy.net). information and links. State-run tourism A host of other information is available agency websites—including Cubanacán online. The Latin America Network (www.cubanacan.cu) and Cubatur (www. Information Center (http://lanic.utexas. cubatur.cu)—are also good places to edu/la/cb/cuba) is hands-down the best check for hotels, transportation, and one-stop shop for helpful links to a wide package deals. range of travel and general information sites. 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 20
20 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO CUBA
3 Entry Requirements & Customs ENTRY REQUIREMENTS particularly those organized by religious All travelers to Cuba must possess a valid groups, used to be a major route for legal passport, a return ticket, and a visa or travel to Cuba, but these were severely cur- tourist visa. Tourist visas are generally tailed by the Bush administration in 2004, issued by the ticketing airline or travel with even tighter restrictions placed on agent. In a worst-case scenario, they can licensed travel in 2005 and 2006. usually be bought on the spot upon clear- Travel arrangements for licensed travel- ing Customs. Tourist visas cost between ers can be made by an authorized Travel CUC$25 and CUC$35, depending upon Service Provider, and travel can be made the issuing agent, and are good for up to directly from U.S. gateway cities on regu- 90 days, although Customs agents will lar charter flights. There are hundreds of sometimes issue them for just 30 days, or authorized TSPs. A few of the most until the date of your return flight, unless dependable are ABC Charters (& 305/ you request otherwise. They can be 263-6829; www.abc-charters.com); extended for another 30 days once you Marazul Tours (& 800/223-5334 or arrive in Cuba for an additional CUC$25 201/319-3900; www.marazultours.com); fee. In order to extend your tourist visa, and Tico Travel (& 800/493-8426 in you must personally go to Havana’s the U.S. or Canada, or 954/493-8426; Immigration Office, Calle 20 between www.destinationcuba.com). Avenidas 3 and 5, Miramar (& 7/58- Be careful about signing on for a “fully 5100). hosted” trip. According to the regula- In the event you need a specific work tions, a U.S. citizen can travel to Cuba visa, or if your travel agent or airline will without violating the Treasury ban pro- not provide you with the tourist visa, you vided he or she does not pay for any should contact the Cuban consulate or goods or services, including food and embassy in your home country. lodging, or provide any services to Cuba or a Cuban national while in the country. FOR RESIDENTS OF THE This provision had been widely used by UNITED STATES U.S. citizens to buy packages from Cana- While it is not illegal for U.S. citizens to dian, Mexican, or Bahamian tour agen- travel to Cuba, most are prohibited from cies. However, the Treasury Department spending any money in Cuba. This, in has caught on to this tactic and has effect, is the “travel ban.” The compli- declared any “fully hosted” trip that is cated prohibition, which allows for vari- clearly for pleasure or tourism is in viola- ous exceptions, is governed by the U.S. tion of the regulations. Treasury Department and the Office of Failure to comply with Department of Foreign Assets Control (OFAC). Treasury regulations may result in civil The Treasury Department grants certain penalties and criminal prosecution upon licenses. Some of these licenses are implicit, return to the United States. For more such as those for full-time journalists and information, contact the Office of For- government officials on official business. eign Assets Control, U.S. Department Other licenses must be applied for on a of the Treasury, 1500 Pennsylvania Ave. case-by-case basis with the U.S. Treasury NW, Treasury Annex, Washington, DC Department, including Cuban-American 20220 (& 800/540-6322, or 202/622- citizens making humanitarian visits to close 2480; www.treas.gov/ofac). The OFAC family. Licenses granted for educational also runs a Cuba Sanctions telephone hot travel and certain humanitarian trips, 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 21
ENTRY REQUIREMENTS & CUSTOMS 21
Tips Pick Your Poison Some operators and guidebooks recommend lying if asked whether or not you were in Cuba. However, you then place yourself at risk for perjury charges, which in the end are easier for the United States government to prosecute, and potentially more serious. I recommend you say little or nothing about your travel to Cuba, but I don’t recommend that you lie. Remember, under U.S. law you have the right to refuse to incriminate yourself.
line out of their Miami office (& 786/ long and uncomfortable search and ques- 845-2829). tioning session, and be sent on your way. As far as Cuba goes, U.S. travelers are This will most likely be followed by the welcomed with open arms. In fact, as an receipt of a pre-penalty notice from the aid to those seeking to circumvent the OFAC. This letter will request specific Treasury ban, in most cases, Cuban information to prove or disprove your immigration does not actually stamp alleged travel to Cuba, and to threaten U.S. passports (but you should ask the the various fines and penalties. At this officer to be sure). For current informa- point you should contact the Center for tion on Cuban entry and Customs Constitutional Rights (& 212/614- requirements, you can contact the Cuban 6464; www.ccr-ny.org), which runs the Interests Section (& 202/797-8518). Cuba Travel Project and works in con- UNLICENSED TRAVEL It is esti- junction with the National Lawyers mated that as many as 80,000 U.S. citizens Guild (www.nlg.org/cuba) to provide travel to Cuba each year without a Trea- legal assistance to U.S. citizens facing sury Department license. The vast major- prosecution for traveling to Cuba. Typi- ity of travelers use third-country gateway cally, after the initial pre-penalty letter, cities like Toronto, Montreal, Cancún, the OFAC offers to settle the case for a Nassau, or Kingston, and are never ques- reduced fine in the neighborhood of tioned or bothered by U.S. authorities $1,500 to $2,500. Many travelers have upon return. However, the Bush adminis- opted to go this route. A very, very small tration has cracked down on unlicensed number of cases have ever fully gone to travelers, and reports of tourists being trial. In late 2003, for the first time, three caught have increased dramatically. administrative judges were appointed to hear these cases. As of press time, only a WHAT TO DO IF YOU GET handful of cases have been heard, with BUSTED Officially, U.S. citizens who mixed results on behalf of the plaintiffs. violate the ban face up to 10 years in prison, $250,000 in criminal fines, and FOR CUBAN NATIONALS $55,000 in civil fines. If you are stopped The Cuban government doesn’t recognize upon returning from an unlicensed trip the dual nationality of citizens who are to Cuba and directly asked by the Cus- Cuban-born or the children of Cuban par- toms and Immigration agents, you ents, particularly those who chose exile in should give as little information as possi- the United States. The Cuban government ble. United States citizens cannot be com- requires some individuals whom it consid- pelled to provide self-incriminating ers to be Cuban to enter and depart Cuba information. Furthermore you cannot be using a Cuban passport. Using a Cuban denied re-entry into the United States for passport for this purpose does not jeopard- traveling to Cuba. You will likely face a ize one’s foreign citizenship; however, you 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 22
22 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO CUBA will probably have to use your home coun- addition, visitors may bring in up to 2 try’s passport to exit and enter that coun- bottles of liquor, a carton of cigarettes, try. Other Cuban nationals and exiles just and up to 10 kilograms of medications, need a visa, but acquiring this visa is more provided it is in its original packaging. complicated than acquiring the simple Anything that might be deemed an tourist visa used by most other travelers. import destined to be sold or given as a If you are Cuban-born or the child of gift to a Cuban citizen will raise eyebrows Cuban-born parents, you should check and may be subject to stiff import duties with the Cuban embassy or consulate in and/or confiscation. This includes TVs, your country of residence, as well as your VCR or DVD players, telephones, fax local immigration authorities. In Canada, machines, desktop computers, and most contact the Cuban Embassy, 388 Main forms of appliances. In fact, by law you St., Ottawa, Ontario, K1S 1E3 (& 613/ may only import up to CUC$250 worth 563-0141); there are also consulates in of any merchandise, and there is a 100% Montreal and Toronto. In the U.K., con- duty on all but the first CUC$50 worth. tact the Cuban Embassy, 167 High Hol- In practice, most visitors can freely bring born, London, WC1 6PA (& 0207/240- in reasonable quantities of basic goods, 2488; [email protected]). In the like dried foods, vitamins, pharmaceuti- U.S., contact the Cuban Interests Sec- cals, and household supplies, without it tion, 2630 16th St. NW, Washington, being taxed or confiscated. DC 20009 (& 202/797-8518). Note: It is illegal to bring in any pre- recorded videotapes or DVDs. Laptop CUSTOMS computers are currently a gray area. Most WHAT YOU CAN BRING travelers are permitted to enter with their INTO CUBA laptop computers without any problem, You may bring in all manner of effects although sometimes they are actually meant for personal use, including video confiscated upon entry and returned just and still cameras, personal electronic prior to your return flight. devices, jewelry, and sports equipment. In
Gifts & Other Assistance
Cuba is greatly lacking in many consumer and health-related products, and many visitors make a point of bringing items that are hard to find or pro- hibitively expensive to give as gifts. However, some visitors may be con- cerned about paternalism or setting examples that influence Cubans to look upon all travelers as bearers of material goods (in some areas popular with tourists, begging has even become a minor issue). One possible solution is to take along gifts to offer to those who may welcome you into their homes or with whom you have some sort of meaningful interaction. Another is to seek out schools and local officials to ensure that gifts are properly distrib- uted. Items greatly appreciated by all Cubans include toothpaste; aspirin and other medicines; sporting goods and equipment, especially baseballs, bats, and gloves; pens and colored pencils; makeup; clothing; and dispos- able diapers. —Neil E. Schlecht 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 23
ENTRY REQUIREMENTS & CUSTOMS 23 You may bring unlimited amounts of unsolicited and don’t contain alcohol or cash, but it is wise to declare quantities in tobacco (write on the package “Unso- excess of US$5,000, as you may have licited gift, under $60 value”). All valu- trouble re-exporting large quantities of ables should be declared on the Y-38 form cash, if discovered upon departure. For before departure from Canada, including current and more detailed information, serial numbers of valuables you already check out www.aduana.islagrande.cu. own, such as expensive foreign cameras. Note: The $750 exemption can only be WHAT YOU CAN TAKE HOME used once a year and only after an absence Travelers may export up to 23 cigars with of 7 days. no questions asked. Larger quantities— U.K. citizens returning from a non- up to CUC$2,000 worth—can be E.U. country have a customs allowance exported, provided you show proof that of: 200 cigarettes; or 50 cigars; or 250 they were bought in official Habanos S.A. grams of smoking tobacco; 2 liters of still outlets. There is no specified limit on the table wine; 1 liter of spirits or strong dollar value of arts and crafts items, or liqueurs (over 22% volume); or 2 liters of clothing you can take home with you. fortified wine, sparkling wine, or other Travelers are officially limited to bringing liqueurs; 60cc (ml) perfume; 250cc (ml) home 2 bottles of rum or other spirits, of toilet water; and £145 worth of all although this limit is rarely enforced. other goods, including gifts and sou- Still, if the Customs officials deem your venirs. People under 17 cannot have the purchases to be of a commercial nature, tobacco or alcohol allowance. For more you could face fines or confiscation. information, contact HM Customs & To export some works of art you will Excise at & 0845/010-9000 (from out- need a permit from the Registro Nacional side the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or con- de Bienes Culturales (National Register sult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk. of Cultural Heritage). Theoretically, any The duty-free allowance in Australia is reputable gallery or shop will provide you A$400 or, for those under 18, A$200. with this permit along with your purchase. Citizens can bring in 250 cigarettes or Handicrafts and artwork bought at street 250 grams of loose tobacco, and 1,125 fairs is exempt from this requirement, milliliters of alcohol. If you’re returning although I have heard of cases of people with valuables you already own, such as being hassled upon departure for not hav- foreign-made cameras, you should file ing a permit for art that should be exempt. form B263. A helpful brochure available Note: There’s a CUC$25 departure from Australian consulates or Customs tax. You must pay this in cash, so be sure offices is Know Before You Go. For more to have it on hand. information, call the Australian Cus- For a clear summary of Canadian toms Service at & 1300/363-263, or log rules, write for the booklet I Declare, on to www.customs.gov.au. issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (& 800/461-9999 in Canada, or The duty-free allowance for New Zealand 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca). is NZ$700. Citizens over 17 can bring in Canada allows its citizens a C$750 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of exemption, and you’re allowed to bring tobacco (or a mixture of all three if their back duty-free one carton of cigarettes, 1 combined weight doesn’t exceed 250g); can of tobacco, 40 imperial ounces of plus 4.5 liters of wine and beer, or 1.125 liquor, and 50 cigars. In addition, you’re liters of liquor. New Zealand currency allowed to mail gifts to Canada valued at does not carry import or export restric- less than C$60 a day, provided they’re tions. Fill out a certificate of export, listing 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 24
24 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO CUBA the valuables you are taking out of the United States, and they are limited to country; that way, you can bring them US$100 in merchandise. It is highly rec- back without paying duty. Most questions ommended you have your receipts handy. are answered in a free pamphlet available All other travelers bringing back Cuban- at New Zealand consulates and Customs made goods will be considered in viola- offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for tion of the Treasury embargo and their Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more informa- goods will be confiscated. tion, contact New Zealand Customs, The Note: It is illegal for U.S. citizens to Customhouse, 17–21 Whitmore St., Box import Cuban products even if they 2218, Wellington (& 04/473-6099 or never stepped foot on the island. It does 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz). no good to try to convince the Customs SPECIAL RULES FOR U.S. CITI- agent confiscating your stogies that you ZENS Only licensed U.S. travelers can bought them in a cigar shop in Canada or bring Cuban-bought goods back into the Mexico or Costa Rica.
4 Money Cuba’s state banking system is trying to a de facto dollarized economy. The CUC keep up with the rise in international is an internationally unsupported cur- tourism and joint business ventures. Both rency, and it is, for all intents and pur- the Banco de Crédito y Comercio and poses, pegged to the U.S. dollar. All of the Banco Financiero Internacional have CADECA branches and major banks will been opening up branches in most major change U.S. dollars, euros, British business and tourist areas; most are open pounds, and Canadian dollars. Monday through Saturday from 8am to There are, in fact, two distinct kinds of 4pm. These banks are the place to go for currency circulating in Cuba: the moneda cash withdrawals off of your non-U.S.- libremente convertible (“convertible peso” issued credit cards. They’ll also work for or CUC), and the moneda nacional cashing traveler’s checks or changing cur- (Cuban peso or MN). Both the CUC and rency, but your best bet for money- moneda nacional are divided up into units exchange transactions is the national of 100 centavos. To complicate matters, chain of casas de cambio (money-exchange the euro is also legal tender in many of houses), CADECA, S.A. You’ll find the hotels, restaurants, and shops in sev- CADECA branches in most major cities eral of the larger, isolated beach resort and tourist destinations, as well as at all destinations. the international airports. Some of their The convertible peso functions on a more strategically located branches are near one-to-one parity with the dollar— open 24 hours. Don’t be scared off by the at press time the official exchange rate long lines in front of most CADECA was US$1=CUC$0.93. However, U.S. offices. These are invariably Cubans look- dollars are penalized by a 10% surcharge ing to buy dollars. Foreigners wanting to on all money exchange operations into sell dollars for Cuban pesos can almost convertible pesos. For this reason, it is always jump to the head of the line and best to carry any hard currency you plan walk right in. on spending in Cuba as euros, British pounds, or Canadian dollars. All of these CURRENCY are freely exchanged at all CADECA Although Castro has replaced the U.S. branches and most banks around Cuba. dollar with the Cuban convertible peso, Be sure to bring relatively fresh and new or CUC, Cuba has always operated under bills. Cuban banks will sometimes refuse 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 25
MONEY 25 to accept bills with even slight tears or CREDIT CARDS markings. Also, it is wise to bring a calcu- MasterCard and Visa are widely accepted lator with you and carefully monitor the at hotels, car-rental agencies, and official exchange process, as tellers have been restaurants and shops, with the caveat that known to deliberately shortchange unsus- they must not be issued by a United States pecting and overly trustworthy tourists. bank or financial institution. Diners Convertible pesos come in 1, 3, 5, 10, Club is also accepted, although to a much 20, 50, and 100 peso bills. Convertible lesser extent. American Express cards are peso coins come in denominations of 5, not accepted anywhere on the island. It is 10, 25, and 50 centavos, and 1 peso. always best to check with your home bank Although the government has long aban- before traveling to see if your card will doned its official posture of a one-to-one work in Cuba. parity between the Cuban peso (MN) Most paladares (private-home restau- and U.S. dollar, the habit of converting rants), casas particulares (private-home moneda nacional prices directly into dol- accommodations), and small businesses lars is still common in many situations. do not accept credit cards. In the more Currently, Cuban pesos can be remote destinations, you should count on exchanged legally for U.S. dollars or using cash for most transactions. More- CUC (and vice versa) at any CADECA over, shaky phone connections and other money exchange office, most banks, and logistical problems often get in the way of many hotels. The official exchange rate as credit card usage. I actually saw some of press time was around 26 pesos to the British travelers unable to use a card at a CUC. While opportunities for travelers major hotel because the hotel was out of to pay in Cuban pesos are few and far receipt tape, and they weren’t sure when between, it is not a bad idea to exchange they would get more. around CUC$5 for pesos soon after If your credit card is lost or stolen arrival. It may be possible to pay for some while you’re in Cuba, you can contact restaurants, taxis, local buses, movie the- Fincimex in the Tryp Havana Libre hotel aters, and other goods or services in on Calle 23 and M, Vedado, Havana Cuban pesos, and the savings are substan- (& 7/55-4466). However, you’re best off tial. If “MN” is displayed on the prices, having written down in advance your you should theoretically be paying Cuban issuing bank’s telephone number and call- pesos. However, in most cases vendors ing them directly. They will usually will try to insist that any non-Cuban pay accept collect calls from anywhere in the in convertible pesos, often at a one-to- world. one rate of exchange. You can exchange any remaining con- ATMs vertible pesos for U.S. dollars or euros at Cuba has a modestly expanding network the airport before leaving. Do so, as the of ATMs (automated teller machines) convertible pesos will be useless outside associated with a string of new banks, like of Cuba. the Banco de Crédito y Comercio and Note: Cubans still often use the term Banco Financiero Internacional. At “peso” and “dollar” interchangeably. If present, the machines are still not univer- you are quoted a price in pesos, it may sally compatible with international credit not be the bargain you think it to be. To and debit cards. No credit or debit cards be clear, “moneda nacional” or “MN” issued by U.S.-based companies will work always refers to Cuban pesos. Other at any of these machines. However, trav- terms for a U.S. dollar include divisa, elers from other countries have a decent verde, guano, and fula. 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 26
26 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO CUBA
Tips Small Change When you change money, ask for some small bills or loose change. Petty cash will come in handy for tipping and public transportation. Consider keeping the change separate from your larger bills, so that it’s readily accessible and you’ll be less of a target for theft.
chance of being able to extract convert- TRAVELER’S CHECKS ible pesos from ATMs at the international In Cuba, traveler’s checks are accepted at airport and most major tourist destina- most major hotels, government-run or tions. As with credit cards, it is always chain restaurants, and major attractions, best to check with your home bank but far less readily than credit cards. The before traveling to see if your ATM card same prohibition against U.S. bank- will work in Cuba. issued tender applies for traveler’s checks, Note: Remember that many banks although the Banco Financiero Interna- impose a fee every time you use a card at cional and some CADECA branches another bank’s ATM, and that fee can be were cashing American Express and other higher for international transactions (up U.S. bank–issued traveler’s checks at press to $5 or more) than for domestic ones time. If you are a die-hard fan of traveler’s (where they’re rarely more than $2). checks, Thomas Cook (check www. You can use your credit card to receive thomascook.com to find your nearest cash advances at ATMs. Keep in mind branch) and Visa (& 800/227-6811, or that credit card companies protect them- 0800/89-5078 in the U.K.) traveler’s selves from theft by limiting maximum checks issued outside of the United States withdrawals outside their home country, are still your best bet. Most banks, so call your credit card company before CADECA offices, hotels, and businesses you leave home. And keep in mind that charge commissions of between 1% and you’ll pay interest from the moment of 5% for cashing traveler’s checks. your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time.
5 When to Go The tourist high season runs December rentals, and tour options. Moreover, through March, coinciding with the win- resorts and attractions are much less ter months in most northern countries. It crowded. However, temperatures are also coincides with Cuba’s dry season. somewhat higher throughout low season, Throughout this season, and especially and periods of extended rainfall are not around the Christmas and Easter holi- uncommon. days, the beaches and resorts are relatively full, prices are somewhat higher, and it CLIMATE may be harder to find an available rental Cuba has two distinct seasons, rainy car or room. Moreover, overbooking, a (May–Oct) and dry (Nov–Apr). The dry widespread problem in the Cuban season is characterized by consistently tourism industry, is certainly much more sunny and temperate weather, with day- of a problem during the high season. time temperatures averaging between 75° During the low season, you should be and 80°F (24°–27°C). However, temper- able to find discounts on rooms, car ature swings are greater during this 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 27
CALENDAR OF EVENTS 27
period, and it can actually get somewhat Paradiso (& 7/832-9538; paradis@paradise. chilly when cold fronts—or “northers”— artex.com.cu), the tour agency arm of the creep down the eastern seaboard of the national arts and cultural organization ARTex. Paradiso organizes theme tours and escorted United States, particularly in the months trips based around most of the major festivals of January and February. In contrast, the and cultural events occurring throughout the rainy season is overall a slightly warmer year. You can also find pretty good information period in Cuba, with less dramatic same- at www.cubatravel.cu, www.cult.cu, and day temperature swings. There’s a small www.loseventos.cu (the last two are in Span- dry spell most years during August, which ish only). is also the hottest month to visit Cuba. February The entire Caribbean basin is affected by International Book Fair, Havana. an annual hurricane season (June–Oct), This large gathering of authors, pub- with September and October having the lishers, and distributors is really only of highest number of hurricanes. interest to those who can read in Span- ish. But if you can, this is an excellent HOLIDAYS Latin American book fair. Second Cuba has a very limited plate of official week of February. holidays, and aside from Christmas Day, no religious holidays are officially recog- Habanos Festival, Havana. Cigar nized by the state. The official holidays smokers won’t want to miss this annual are January 1 (Liberation Day), May 1 celebration of the Cuban stogie. Run (May Day, or Labor Day), July 26 (Rev- by the official state cigar company, olution Day), October 10 (Anniversary Habanos, S.A., events include lectures, of the beginning of the 1868 War of factory visits, tastings, and a gala dinner Independence), and December 25 with an auction of rare cigars. For more (Christmas Day). However, with the state information, visit www.habanos.com. having such total control, it’s not uncom- Late February. mon for them to call mass rallies or entire March national mobilizations as they see fit. International Festival of “La Trova” Other important dates that sometimes Pepe Sánchez, Santiago de Cuba. If bring Cuba to a de facto state of national you like the sounds of traditional holiday include: January 28 (Birth of Cuban folk music, you’ll want to hit José Martí), February 24 (Anniversary of this festival. Buena Vista Social Club the beginning of the 1895 War of Inde- member Eliades Ochoa was charged pendence), March 8 (International with organizing a recent version. Local Women’s Day), April 19 (Anniversary of Santiagueros are the heart of the festi- Bay of Pigs Victory), July 30 (Day of the val, but singers and groups come from Martyrs of the Revolution), October 8 the entire island and throughout Latin (Anniversary of the Death of Che Gue- America. Mid-March. vara), October 28 (Anniversary of the Celebration of Classic Cars, Havana. Death of Camilo Cienfuegos), and Recognizing the appeal of its huge fleet December 7 (Anniversary of the Death of classic American cars, Cuba has of Antonio Maceo). organized a weeklong celebration of these Detroit dinosaurs. Events include CALENDAR OF EVENTS lectures, mechanical workshops, and Cuba has a packed schedule of festivals, con- parades. Owners from other countries gresses, and carnivals, and it seems like more are are encouraged to bring their wheels to being offered each year. If no specific contact Cuba, and a caravan from Havana to information is offered below, you can contact 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 28
28 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO CUBA another colonial city is usually orches- tournament. Call & 7/897-1462 for trated. Mid-March. more information. Mid- to late July. April Carnival, Santiago de Cuba. The most International Percussion Festival “African” city in Cuba throws an excel- PERCUBA, Havana. This large meet- lent annual carnival. Street parties and ing of percussionists draws national concerts are everywhere, and the colo- and international scholars and players nial city is flooded with masked revel- working in genres ranging from classi- ers and long conga lines. Second half cal to fusion. Lectures, workshops, of July. concerts, and colloquiums are all part August of a dense bill. Call & 7/203-8808 or Carnival, Havana. Although not nearly visit www.cult.cu for more informa- as colorful or charismatic as Santiago’s tion. Mid-April. Carnival, there’s still a good dose of May public merriment, street parties, open- May Day parades, nationwide. If air music concerts, and the occasional you’re in Cuba for May Day, the tradi- parade. August 3 to August 15. tional socialist celebration of Labor Beny Moré International Festival of Day, you’ll want to join (or at least Popular Music, Cienfuegos. Although watch) one of the many parades and he was actually born a few kilometers public gatherings. The big daddy of away in the little hamlet of Santa Isabel them all takes place at the Plaza de la de las Lajas, he is celebrated here with Revolución in Havana, where over a heavy schedule of concerts through- 100,000 people usually gather to listen out most of the latter part of August, to Fidel’s annual May Day speech. and sometimes into September. May 1. Carnival, Matanzas. If you’re looking June for a good time, try to get to Matanzas International Festival “Boleros de during the third week of August. Oro,” Havana. You’ll be crying in your Although not as massive or elaborate as mojito . . . and loving it. Theaters, Carnival celebrations in Havana or clubs, and concert halls across Havana Santiago, Matanzas still puts on a good will be filled with the sweet and melan- party. The town has strong Afro- choly sounds of bolero. Concerts are Cuban roots, and you’ll experience this also staged in Santiago and other major in body, flesh, food, and song through- cities. Late June. out the week. Third week of August. July September Fiesta del Fuego, Santiago de Cuba. Fiesta de la Virgen del Cobre, El This event features lectures, concerts, Cobre, Santiago de Cuba. Cuba’s parades, and street fairs celebrating national saint, the Virgin of Cobre, is Afro-Caribbean culture. Speakers, revered by Roman Catholics and San- guests, and musical groups from teras alike. There are pilgrimages to her around the Caribbean are usually altar in the small town of El Cobre, invited. For more information, e-mail and celebrations in her honor nation- [email protected]. July 3 to July 9. wide. September 8. International “Old Man and the International Blue Marlin Tourna- Sea” Billfish Tournament, Playas del ment, Havana. The Marina Heming- Este, Havana. Marina Tarará is the way is the fitting site for this annual host to this annual big-game fishing 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 29
TRAVEL INSURANCE 29 big-game fishing tournament. For American artists working in a broad more information, call & 7/204-6848 range of mediums and styles. Occur- or check www.cubanacan.cu. Late ring in even-numbered years from mid- September. November to mid-December. October December Days of Cuban Culture, nationwide. International Festival of New Latin In yet another show of Cuba’s American Film Festival, Havana. This omnipresent anti-colonial spirit, the is one of the premier film festivals in period traditionally marking Christo- Latin America. A packed schedule of pher Columbus’s stumbling upon the films is shown in theaters over a period New World are given over to celebra- of 10 days throughout Havana, but tions of Cuban and Afro-Cuban cul- predominantly in Vedado. For more ture. October 10 to October 20. information, check out www.habana International Festival “Matamoros filmfestival.com. Early December. Son,” Santiago de Cuba. The silky International Jazz Festival, Havana. sounds of Cuban son fill the streets and This festival has had its ups and theaters of Santiago. Organized by the downs, and has struggled to find its reigning champion of the genre, Adal- annual slot. It seems to have found its berto Alvarez, this is a great chance to groove, dovetailing with the film festi- hear a solid week of some wonderful val and organized for the past couple music. Visit www.cult.cu for more years by none other than Chucho information. Mid-October. Valdés. The festival usually draws a Havana International Ballet Festival, handful of top international bands and Havana. Alicia Alonso, amazingly, is soloists to share the stage and billing still going strong, and the Cuban with a strong stable of Cuba’s best jazz National Ballet is still one of the most talents. Mid-December. highly regarded troupes on the planet. Las Parrandas, Remedios. This Alicia uses this cachet to stage a wonder- extravagant public carnival features late ful annual international festival in the night parades with ornate floats, cos- Gran Teatro de La Habana. For more tumed revelers, and a serious amount information, call & 7/855-3084 or of fireworks. The big event occurs on visit www.balletcuba.cu. Late October. December 24, but between the prepa- November rations, practice runs, and smaller imi- Havana Biennale, Havana. This is one tations in neighboring towns, you’ll be of the premier Latin American art able to catch some of the excitement shows, bringing together and exhibit- throughout most of late December. ing a wide range of contemporary Latin
6 Travel Insurance TRAVEL INSURANCE The cost of travel insurance varies AT A GLANCE widely, depending on the cost and length Check your existing insurance policies of your trip, your age and health, and the and credit card coverage before you buy type of trip you’re taking, but expect to travel insurance. You may already be cov- pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation ered for lost luggage, canceled tickets, or itself. You can get estimates from various medical expenses. providers through InsureMyTrip.com. 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 30
30 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO CUBA Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, high-risk areas, include insurance in the and other information, for prices from total trip cost or can arrange insurance more than a dozen companies. policies through a partnering provider, Most tour operators and agencies who which is a convenient and often cost- work in Cuba or book travel to Cuba effective way for the traveler to obtain offer a basic insurance package for around insurance. Make sure the tour company is CUC$5 per day that includes in-country a reputable one, however, and be aware medical coverage with a zero-deductible that some experts suggest you avoid buy- of up to CUC$25,000; emergency evacu- ing insurance from the tour or cruise ation and repatriation coverage of up to company you’re traveling with. They con- CUC$7,000; coverage for civil damages tend it’s more secure to buy from a “third caused to third parties of up to party” than to put all your money in one CUC$25,000; and lost luggage coverage place. of up to CUC$400. Other coverage For more information, contact one of options also exist. These policies are the following recommended insurers invariably bought through Asistur (& 7/ (although given restrictions on travel to 866-8527; www.asistur.cu). Cuba, U.S. citizens will need to confirm TRIP-CANCELLATION INSUR- that trips to Cuba are insurable): Access ANCE Trip-cancellation insurance will America (& 866/807-3982; www.access help retrieve your money if you have to america.com); Travel Guard Interna- back out of a trip or depart early, or if tional (& 800/826-4919; www.travel your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Per- guard.com); Travel Insured Interna- missible reasons for trip cancellation can tional (& 800/243-3174; www.travel range from sickness to natural disasters. insured.com); and Travelex Insurance (Insurers usually won’t cover vague fears, Services (& 888/457-4602; www.travelex- though, as many travelers discovered insurance.com). when they tried to cancel their trips in MEDICAL INSURANCE For travel October 2001.) In this unstable world, overseas, most health plans (including trip-cancellation insurance is a good buy Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide if you’re purchasing tickets well in coverage, and the ones that do often advance—who knows what the state of require you to pay for services upfront the world, or of your airline, will be in 9 and reimburse you only after you return months? Insurance policy details vary, so home. Even if your plan does cover over- read the fine print—and make sure that seas treatment, most out-of-country hos- your airline or cruise line is on the list of pitals make you pay your bills upfront, carriers covered in case of bankruptcy. A and send you a refund only after you’ve good resource is “Travel Guard Alerts,” returned home and filed the necessary a list of companies considered high-risk paperwork with your insurance company. by Travel Guard International (see web- As a safety net, you may want to buy site below). Protect yourself further by travel medical insurance, particularly if paying for the insurance with a credit you’re traveling to a remote or high-risk card—by law, consumers can get their area where emergency evacuation is a pos- money back on goods and services not sible scenario. If you require additional received if they report the loss within 60 medical insurance, try MEDEX Assis- days after the charge is listed on their tance (& 410/453-6300; www.medex credit card statement. assist.com) or Travel Assistance Interna- Note: Many tour operators, particu- tional (& 800/821-2828; www.travel larly those offering trips to remote or assistance.com; for general information 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 31
HEALTH & SAFETY 31 on services, call the company’s World- package, or buy Travel Guard’s “BagTrak” wide Assistance Services, Inc., at & 800/ product. Don’t buy insurance at the air- 777-8710). port, where it’s usually overpriced. Be LOST-LUGGAGE INSURANCE On sure to take any valuables or irreplaceable domestic flights, checked baggage is cov- items with you in your carry-on luggage, ered up to $2,500 per ticketed passenger. because many valuables (including books, On international flights (including U.S. money, and electronics) aren’t covered by portions of international trips), baggage airline policies. coverage is limited to approximately If your luggage is lost, immediately file $9.07 per pound, up to approximately a lost-luggage claim at the airport, detail- $635 per checked bag. If you plan to ing the luggage contents. Most airlines check items more valuable than what’s require that you report delayed, damaged, covered by the standard liability, see if or lost baggage within 4 hours of arrival. your homeowner’s policy covers your The airlines are required to deliver lug- valuables, get baggage insurance as part of gage, once found, directly to your house your comprehensive travel-insurance or destination free of charge.
7 Health & Safety STAYING HEALTHY array of bees, wasps, mosquitoes, and Despite ongoing economic troubles and sand fleas are present. Sand fleas are a shortages, Cuba’s healthcare system slight nuisance at most beaches if there’s remains one of the best in Latin America. no offshore breeze to clear them, particu- The country takes extremely proactive larly around sunrise and sunset. While steps toward preventive public health, there are also ticks and chiggers, so far, and common tropical diseases like Lyme disease is not considered a problem. cholera, malaria, and dengue fever are Bring repellent and wear light, long- either uncommon or have been totally sleeved clothing. eradicated. You don’t need any vaccina- Overall, while water is potable tions to travel to Cuba, unless you are throughout most of Cuba, I still recom- coming from a region with cholera or yel- mend you stick primarily to bottled low fever, in which case the Cuban water, just to err on the side of safety. Vir- authorities will require proof of immu- tually every hotel and restaurant catering nization. to travelers will carry bottled water. Ask Staying healthy on a trip to Cuba is for agua mineral sin gas. predominantly a matter of common Contact the International Associa- sense: Know your physical limits and tion for Medical Assistance to Travelers don’t overexert yourself in the ocean, on (IAMAT) (& 716/754-4883 or, in hikes, or in athletic activities. Cuba is a Canada, 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) tropical country, so limit your exposure for tips on travel and health concerns in to the sun, especially during the first few the countries you’re visiting, and for lists days of your trip and, thereafter, from of local, English-speaking doctors. The 11am to 2pm. Use a sunscreen with a United States Centers for Disease Con- high protection factor and apply it liber- trol and Prevention (& 800/311-3435; ally. Remember that children need more www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date infor- protection than adults do. mation on health hazards by region or There are no poisonous snakes in country and offers tips on food safety. Cuba, which will put many minds at ease. The website www.tripprep.com, spon- In terms of biting bugs, your standard sored by a consortium of travel medicine 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 32
32 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO CUBA practitioners, may also offer helpful upsurge in tourism, there have been some advice on traveling abroad. You can find reports of pickpocketing and muggings, listings of reliable clinics overseas at the but these are by far the exceptions to the International Society of Travel Medi- rule. There’s a strong security and police cine (www.istm.org). presence in most popular tourist destina- tions, and even outside the well-worn WHAT TO DO IF YOU GET tourist routes theft and assaults are quite SICK AWAY FROM HOME uncommon. Cuba has an excellent nationwide system That said, you should be careful and of hospitals and clinics and you should use common sense. Given the nature of have no trouble finding prompt and Cuba’s socialist system, there exists a huge competent medical care in the case of disparity in wealth between the average emergency. See the “Orientation” or “Fast Cuban and any foreign visitor, even Facts” sections of the individual destina- budget travelers. Don’t flash ostentatious tion chapters for specific recommenda- signs of wealth, and avoid getting too far tions. The system is entirely free for off the beaten path, especially at night. Cubans, but foreigners are charged for Don’t leave valuables unattended, and services. This is actually a significant always use your hotel-room or front-desk means of income for the country; how- safe. ever, fees for private medical care are rela- tively inexpensive by most Western ECO-TOURISM standards. The International Ecotourism Society The country also has a strong network (TIES) defines eco-tourism as “responsi- of pharmacies. However, it is always a ble travel to natural areas that conserves good idea to carry a sufficient supply of the environment and improves the well- any necessary prescription medicines you being of local people.” You can find eco- may need (packed in their original con- friendly travel tips, statistics, and touring tainers in your carry-on luggage), and a companies and associations—listed by small first-aid kit with basic analgesic, destination under “Travel Choice”—at antihistamine, and anti-diarrhea medica- the TIES website, www.ecotourism.org. tions. You might also bring a copy of your Ecotravel.com is part online magazine prescriptions, with the generic name of and part ecodirectory that lets you search the medication in case the pharmacist for touring companies in several cate- doesn’t recognize the brand name. Don’t gories (water-based, land-based, spiritu- forget an extra pair of contact lenses or ally oriented, and so on). Also check prescription glasses. out Conservation International (www. If you suffer from a chronic illness, con- conservation.org)—which, with National sult your doctor before your departure. For Geographic Traveler, annually presents conditions like epilepsy, diabetes, or heart World Legacy Awards (www.wlaward. problems, wear a MedicAlert identifica- org) to those travel tour operators, busi- tion tag (& 888/633-4298; www.medic nesses, organizations, and places that alert.org), which will immediately alert have made a significant contribution to doctors to your condition and give them sustainable tourism. access to your records through Medic- There is a Cuban travel agency called Alert’s 24-hour hot line. Ecotur (& 7/649-1055), but I don’t find THE SAFE TRAVELER them to have any specific expertise or ori- entation toward what I would consider Cuba is an extremely safe country. Street true eco-tourism. crime is relatively rare. With the recent 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 33
SPECIALIZED TRAVEL RESOURCES 33 There are several swim-with-dolphin with dolphins and other outdoor activi- programs across Cuba, and I deal with ties, visit the Whale and Dolphin Con- each of these on an individual basis in the servation Society (www.wdcs.org) and different destination chapters. For infor- Tread Lightly (www.treadlightly.org). mation about the ethics of swimming
8 Specialized Travel Resources TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELERS Most disabilities shouldn’t stop anyone In general, Cuba has a poor record on gay from traveling. There are more options and lesbian rights, and while the situation and resources out there than ever before. has improved somewhat, there are still And Cuba has been very forward-think- high levels of homophobia and broad ing in the recognition of the rights of per- societal rejection of gays and lesbians. For sons with disabilities. Still, overall, Cuba decades following the Revolution, gays is not an easy country for travelers with and lesbians were closeted and perse- disabilities. While a few hotels are cuted. The harsh measures they faced equipped to handle travelers with disabil- included forced labor and prison. The ities, they are far from the norm. More- blockbuster movie Fresa y chocolate over, there’s almost no private or public (Strawberry and Chocolate) certainly transportation service geared toward trav- brought the issue to the forefront, yet lit- elers with disabilities. The streets of tle has changed in the prevailing views of Havana are rugged and crowded, and this macho society. There are no openly sidewalks, in particular, are often either accepted gay or lesbian establishments in totally absent or badly torn up. The Cuba, and none of the established gay Cuban people, however, are quite consci- and lesbian tour operators run trips to the entious and embracing in their treatment island. While travelers are generally not of people with disabilities. hassled in Cuba and given somewhat fur- Asociación Cubana de Limitados ther leeway in terms of social mores, Físicos-Motores (The Cuban Disabled same-sex signs of physical affection are Association), Calle 6 no. 106, between rare and frowned upon across the coun- Avenidas 1 and 3, Miramar, Havana try. Gay and lesbian couples and singles (& 7/204-9980; [email protected]. should take the prevailing social climate cu), is a Cuban organization charged with into account when traveling in Cuba. ensuring accessibility and lobbying for The documentary film, Gay Cuba, by rights. The association is a member of the Sonja de Vries (Frameline Films; www. Disabled Peoples’ International (DPI), frameline.org), is an honest look at the and probably the best contact for travel- treatment of gays and lesbians in modern ers with disabilities in Cuba. Cuba. Despite its promising domain The Society for Accessible Travel & name, the website www.gay-cuba.com is Hospitality (& 212/447-7284; www. somewhat out of date and light on truly sath.org) offers a wealth of travel helpful information. resources for all types of disabilities and The International Gay and Lesbian informed recommendations on destina- Travel Association (IGLTA) (& 800/ tions, access guides, travel agents, tour 448-8550 or 954/776-2626; www.iglta. operators, vehicle rentals, and companion org) is the trade association for the gay and services. Annual membership costs $45 lesbian travel industry, and offers an online for adults, $30 for seniors and students. directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 34
34 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO CUBA
Race Relations in Cuba
Cuba is—very conservatively—estimated to be about one-third black and mulatto (in reality, the percentage is probably closer to two-thirds or more). Cuba officially declares itself to be colorblind, and, at least on the surface, the obvious mixed-race heritage and the strong presence of Afro-Cuban culture seem to support that notion. Though, as a society, Cuba is much less racist and male-dominated than it was before the Revolution, racism still exists, even if much of it is under the radar. Economic racism is widespread; relatively few black Cubans occupy positions of authority in the government, state enter- prise, and tourism. Racist comments are as regrettably common as they are in other countries. Many Cubans assume blacks to be the majority of jineteros (male hustlers) and jineteras (female escorts), even though the reality is that hustling in Cuba is universal. Most Cubans also believe that the police harass blacks and mulattoes to a disproportionate degree, and travelers of African and Hispanic descent may experience the same. Spanish-speaking travelers accompanying Anglo-looking tourists are sometimes followed and questioned by police who ignorantly assume them to be Cuban hustlers working a beat. In fact, one other disturbing aspect of this situation is that black tourists are sometimes mistaken for Cuban jineteros and given a hard time by secu- rity personnel upon entering hotels and restaurants. —Neil E. Schlecht
travel businesses; go to their website and and over, although Cuba is not on their click on “Members.” current program. SENIOR TRAVEL FAMILY TRAVEL Cuba is a comfortable destination for Cuba is an excellent destination for fami- senior travelers. Seniors are treated with lies, particularly if you want an all-inclu- deference and respect in Cuba. Moreover, sive beach vacation with a broad range of it’s a particularly safe country, with low tours, activities, and entertainment levels of street crime, and the food and options. Toward this end, Varadero would water are generally safe as well. probably be your top choice, with a wealth Mention the fact that you’re a senior of watersports activities and land-based when you make your travel reservations— adventures, including nearby caves to some of the hotel chains and package tour explore. The beach destinations of Cayo operators still offer discounts for seniors. Coco, Cayo Guillermo, and Guardalavaca However, don’t expect to find specific sen- are also worth considering. If you do go ior discounts once you arrive in Cuba, the all-inclusive route, be sure the resort where you will be lumped into the cate- you choose has a well-run children’s pro- gory of rich foreigner and gouged as much gram, with a full plate of activities. as possible, like all the rest. If your children are old enough, they ElderTreks (& 800/741-7956; www. should enjoy the colonial wonders of eldertreks.com) is a Canadian-based Habana Vieja (Old Havana), including its company that has, in the past, arranged forts and castles. Hotels and attractions small group adventure trips for those 50 throughout Cuba often give discounts for 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 35
PLANNING YOUR TRIP ONLINE 35 children under 12 years old (and some- website Journeywoman (www.journey times teens up to 16 or so often get away woman.com), a “real life” women’s travel- with admission at children’s prices). information network where you can sign However, hotels offering regular, up for a free e-mail newsletter and get dependable babysitting service are few advice on everything from etiquette and and far between. If you will need babysit- dress to safety; or the travel guide Safety ting, make sure your hotel offers it before and Security for Women Who Travel by you leave home. To locate those accom- Sheila Swan and Peter Laufer (Travelers’ modations, restaurants, and attractions Tales, Inc.), offering common-sense tips that are particularly kid-friendly, refer to on safe travel. the “Kids” icon throughout this guide. Perhaps the biggest issue facing single travelers is that of jineterismo, which is a SINGLE TRAVELERS way of life in Cuba. In its most disturbing Cuba is a very safe country. Single travel- form, it has become synonymous with ers face no real specific threats or dangers. prostitution. Sex tourism and prostitution That said, don’t throw common sense flourish in Cuba, and single travelers of out the window. Single travelers—and both genders and any sexual persuasion women in particular—should still be will encounter constant offers for compan- careful when walking alone at night, both ionship, and usually more. In some cases, in Havana and in other more remote des- the terms are quite clear and a cash value is tinations. Cuba is also a somewhat typical set. In others, the jinetera or jinetero is just “macho” Latin American nation, with an looking for some restaurant meals, store- open and extroverted sense of sexuality. bought clothing, food, daily necessities, Single women can expect their fair share and sometimes even a good time. Many of catcalls, whistles, and propositions, are looking to cement relationships with especially in Havana. The best advice is to foreign tourists that could lead to marriage ignore the unwanted attention, rather and a means of improving their standard than try to come up with a witty or of living on a longer-term basis, either on antagonistic rejoinder. Women travelers the island or abroad. See appendix A for should check out the award-winning more information on jineterismo.
9 Planning Your Trip Online SURFING FOR AIRFARES your favorite destination. Of the smaller The “big three” online travel agencies, travel-agency websites, SideStep (www. Expedia.com, Travelocity.com, and sidestep.com) has gotten the best reviews Orbitz.com sell most of the air tickets from Frommer’s authors. The website bought on the Internet. (Canadian travel- (with optional browser add-on) purports ers should try expedia.ca and Travelocity. to “search 140 sites at once,” but in real- ca; U.K. residents can go for expedia.co. ity only beats competitors’ fares as often uk and opodo.co.uk.). Kayak.com is also as other sites do. gaining popularity and uses a sophisti- Also remember to check airline web- cated search engine (developed at MIT). sites, especially those for low-fare carriers Each has different business deals with the such as JetBlue, AirTran, WestJet, or airlines and may offer different fares on Ryanair, whose fares are often misre- the same flights, so it’s wise to shop ported or simply missing from travel around. Expedia, Kayak, and Travelocity agency websites. Even with major air- will also send you e-mail notification lines, you can often shave a few bucks when a cheap fare becomes available to from a fare by booking directly through 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 36
36 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO CUBA the airline and avoiding a travel agency’s demystifying Priceline’s prices and strate- transaction fee. But you’ll get these dis- gies. Priceline and Hotwire are great for counts only by booking online: Most flights within North America and airlines now offer online-only fares that between the U.S. and Europe. But for even their phone agents know nothing flights to other parts of the world, consol- about. For the websites of airlines that fly idators will almost always beat their fares. to and from your destination, go to “Get- Note: In 2004, Priceline added non- ting There,” p. 40. opaque service to its roster. You now have Great last-minute deals are available the option to pick exact flights, times, and through free weekly e-mail services pro- airlines from a list of offers—or opt to bid vided directly by the airlines. Most of on opaque fares as before. these are announced on Tuesday or Wednesday and must be purchased SURFING FOR HOTELS online. Most are only valid for travel that Shopping online for hotels is generally weekend, but some (such as Southwest’s) done one of two ways: by booking can be booked weeks or months in through the hotel’s own website or advance. Sign up for weekly e-mail alerts through an independent booking agency at airline websites or check mega-sites (or a fare-service agency like Priceline; see that compile comprehensive lists of last- below). These Internet hotel agencies minute specials, such as Smarter Travel have multiplied in mind-boggling num- (smartertravel.com). For last-minute bers of late, competing for the business of trips, site59.com and lastminutetravel. millions of consumers surfing for accom- com in the U.S. and lastminute.com in modations around the world. This com- Europe often have better air-and-hotel petitiveness can be a boon to consumers package deals than the major-label sites. who have the patience and time to shop If you’re willing to give up some control and compare the online sites for good over your flight details, use what is called deals—but shop they must, for prices can an “opaque” fare service such as Price- vary considerably from site to site. And line (www.priceline.com; www.priceline. keep in mind that hotels at the top of a co.uk for Europeans) or its smaller com- site’s listing may be there for no other rea- petitor Hotwire (www.hotwire.com). son than that they paid money to get the Both offer rock-bottom prices in exchange placement. for travel on a “mystery airline” at a mys- Of the “big three” sites, Expedia offers terious time of day, often with a mysteri- a long list of special deals and “virtual ous change of planes en route. The tours” or photos of available rooms so mystery airlines are all major, well-known you can see what you’re paying for (a fea- carriers—and the possibility of being sent ture that helps counter the claims that the from Philadelphia to Chicago via Tampa best rooms are often held back from bar- is remote; the airlines’ routing computers gain booking websites). Travelocity posts have gotten a lot better than they used to unvarnished customer reviews and ranks be. Your chances of getting a 6am or its properties according to the AAA rating 11pm flight, however, are still pretty high. system. (Trip Advisor [www.tripadvisor. Hotwire tells you flight prices before you com] is another excellent source of unbi- buy; Priceline usually has better deals than ased user reviews of hotels around the Hotwire, but you have to play their “name world. While even the finest hotels can our price” game. If you’re new at this, the inspire a misleadingly poor review from a helpful folks at BiddingForTravel (www. picky or crabby travelers, the body of user biddingfortravel.com) do a good job of opinions, when taken as a whole, is usu- ally a reliable indicator.) 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 37
PLANNING YOUR TRIP ONLINE 37
Frommers.com: The Complete Travel Resource
For an excellent travel-planning resource, we highly recommend Frommers.com (www.frommers.com), voted Best Travel Site by PC Maga- zine. We’re a little biased, of course, but we guarantee that you’ll find the travel tips, reviews, monthly vacation giveaways, bookstore, and online- booking capabilities thoroughly indispensable. Among the special features are our popular Destinations section, where you’ll get expert travel tips, hotel and dining recommendations, and advice on the sights to see for more than 3,500 destinations around the globe; the Frommers.com Newsletter, with the latest deals, travel trends, and money-saving secrets; and our Travel Talk area featuring Message Boards, where Frommer’s read- ers post queries and share advice, and where our authors sometimes show up to answer questions. Once you finish your research, the Book a Trip area can lead you to Frommer’s preferred online partners’ websites, where you can book your vacation at affordable prices.
Other reliable online booking agencies Be prepared for some pitfalls when include Hotels.com and Quikbook.com. booking directly through hotel websites An excellent free program, TravelAxe in Cuba. Many of the state-run (www.travelaxe.net), can help you search chains—Gaviota, Habaguanex, and multiple hotel sites at once, even ones you Cubanacán—have primitive or poorly may never have heard of—and conve- maintained websites, and their online niently lists the total price of the room, booking mechanisms can be cumbersome including the taxes and service charges. and inconsistent. You’ll definitely do bet- Another booking site, Travelweb (www. ter with the larger international chains travelweb.com), is partly owned by the like Sol Meliá (www.solmeliacuba.com), hotels it represents (including the Hilton, Occidental (www.occidental-hoteles. Hyatt, and Starwood chains) and is there- com), and Barceló (www.barcelo.com). fore plugged directly into the hotels’ reser- In the opaque website category, Price- vations systems—unlike independent line and Hotwire are even better for online agencies, which have to fax or hotels than for airfares; through both, e-mail reservation requests to the hotel, a you’re allowed to pick the neighborhood good portion of which get misplaced in and quality level of your hotel before pay- the shuffle. More than once, travelers have ing. Priceline’s hotel product even covers arrived at the hotel, only to be told that Europe and Asia, though it’s much better they have no reservation. To be fair, many at getting five-star lodging for three-star of the major sites are undergoing prices than at finding anything at the bot- improvements in service and ease of use, tom of the scale. On the downside, many and Expedia will soon be able to plug hotels stick Priceline guests in their least directly into the reservations systems of desirable rooms. Be sure to go to the Bid- many hotel chains—none of which can be dingForTravel website (see above) before bad news for consumers. In the mean- bidding on a hotel room on Priceline; it time, it’s a good idea to get a confirma- features a fairly up-to-date list of hotels tion number and make a printout of any that Priceline uses in major cities. For online booking transaction. both Priceline and Hotwire, you pay 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 38
38 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO CUBA upfront, and the fee is nonrefundable. journeys online. To read travelogues Note: Some hotels do not provide loyalty about Cuba, try the forum section at program credits or points or other fre- www.cubamania.com. You can search for quent-stay amenities when you book a other blogs about Cuba at Travelblog. room through opaque online services. com or post your own travelogue at Trav- elblog.org. For blogs that cover general SURFING FOR RENTAL CARS travel news and highlight various destina- For booking rental cars online, the best tions, try Writtenroad.com or Gawker deals are usually found at rental-car com- Media’s snarky Gridskipper.com. For more pany websites, although all the major literary travel essays, try Salon.com’s travel online travel agencies also offer rental-car section (http://salon.com/Wanderlust), reservations services. The same caveat I and Worldhum.com, which also has an mentioned above for booking rooms with extensive list of other travel-related jour- the large state-run hotel chains applies to nals, blogs, online communities, newspa- the state-run car-rental agencies. per coverage, and bookstores. TRAVEL BLOGS & TRAVELOGUES More and more travelers are using travel Web logs, or blogs, to chronicle their
10 The 21st-Century Traveler INTERNET ACCESS AWAY now have Internet kiosks scattered FROM HOME throughout their gates. These kiosks, Travelers have any number of ways to which you’ll also see in shopping malls, check their e-mail and access the Internet hotel lobbies, and tourist information on the road. Of course, using your own offices around the world, give you basic laptop—or even a PDA (personal digital Web access for a per-minute fee that’s usu- assistant) or electronic organizer with a ally higher than cybercafe prices. The modem—gives you the most flexibility. kiosks’ clunkiness and high price, how- But even if you don’t have a computer, ever, mean you should avoid them when- you can still access your e-mail and even ever possible. your office computer from cybercafes. To retrieve your e-mail, ask your Inter- net Service Provider (ISP) if it has a WITHOUT YOUR OWN Web-based interface tied to your existing COMPUTER e-mail account. If your ISP doesn’t have It’s hard nowadays to find a city that such an interface, you can use the free doesn’t have a few cybercafes. Although mail2web service (www.mail2web.com) there’s no definitive directory for cyber- to view and reply to your home e-mail. cafes—these are independent businesses, For more flexibility, you may want to after all—three places to start looking open a free, Web-based e-mail account are at www.cybercaptive.com and www. with Yahoo! Mail (http://mail.yahoo. cybercafe.com. In Cuba, you’ll find cyber- com). (Microsoft’s Hotmail is another cafes in most major tourist destinations. popular option, but Hotmail has severe Most of the more upscale hotels and spam problems.) Your home ISP may be resorts also provide for guest connectivity able to forward your e-mail to the Web- in one form or another. based account automatically. Most major airports, including the José If you need to access files on your Martí International Airport in Havana, office computer, look into a service called 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 39
THE 21ST-CENTURY TRAVELER 39 GoToMyPC (www.gotomypc.com). The To locate other hotspots that provide free service provides a Web-based interface for wireless networks in cities around the you to access and manipulate a distant world, go to www.personaltelco.net/ PC from anywhere—even a cybercafe— index.cgi/WirelessCommunities. provided your “target” PC is on and has For dial-up access, most business-class an always-on connection to the Internet hotels throughout the world offer data- (as with Road Runner cable). The service ports for laptop modems, and a few thou- offers top-quality security, but if you’re sand hotels in the U.S. and Europe now worried about hackers, use your own lap- offer free high-speed Internet access using top rather than a cybercafe computer to an Ethernet network cable. You can bring access the GoToMyPC system. your own cables, but most hotels rent them for around $10. Call your hotel in WITH YOUR OWN COMPUTER advance to see what your options are. More and more hotels, cafes, and retailers In addition, major Internet Service are signing on as Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity) Providers (ISPs) have local access num- “hotspots,” from where you can get high- bers around the world, allowing you to speed connection without cable wires, go online by placing a local call. Check networking hardware, or a phone line your ISP’s website or call its toll-free (see below). You can get a Wi-Fi connec- number and ask how you can use your tion one of several ways. Many laptops current account away from home, and sold in the last year have built-in Wi-Fi how much it will cost. capability (an 802.11b wireless Ethernet The iPass network also has dial-up connection). Mac owners have their own numbers around the world. You’ll have to networking technology, Apple AirPort. sign up with an iPass provider, who will For those with older computers, you can then tell you how to set up your computer plug in an 802.11b/Wi-Fi card (around for your destination(s). For a list of iPass $50). You sign up for wireless access serv- providers, go to www.ipass.com and click ice much as you do for cellphone service, on “Individuals Buy Now.” One solid through a plan offered by one of several provider is i2roam (www.i2roam.com; commercial companies that have made & 866/811-6209 or 920/235-0475). wireless service available in airports, hotel Wherever you go, bring a connection lobbies, and coffee shops, primarily in the kit of the right power and phone U.S. (followed by the U.K. and Japan). adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare T-Mobile Hotspot (www.t-mobile.com/ Ethernet network cable—or find out hotspot) serves up wireless connections at whether your hotel supplies them to more than 1,000 Starbucks coffee shops guests. Throughout Cuba, electricity is nationwide. Boingo (www.boingo.com) 110-volt AC, and most outlets are U.S.- and Wayport (www.wayport.com) have style two- or three-prong. However, set up networks in airports and upscale many of the large hotels and resorts that hotel lobbies. IPass providers (see below) cater primarily to Canadian and Euro- also give you access to a few hundred pean clientele are wired for 220 volts. wireless hotel lobby setups. Best of all, you don’t need to be staying at the Four USING A CELLPHONE Seasons to use the hotel’s network; just set In Cuba, cellular service is controlled by yourself up on a nice couch in the lobby. Cubacel (& 5/264-2266; www.cubacel. (Pricing policies can be byzantine, but in cu). Cubacel has offices at the José Martí general you pay around $30 a month for International Airport and in Havana and unlimited access, and prices are dropping most major cities and tourist destina- as Wi-Fi access becomes more common.) tions. Cubacel offers cellphone rentals for 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 40
40 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO CUBA
Online Traveler’s Toolbox
Veteran travelers usually carry some essential items to make their trips eas- ier. Following is a selection of handy online tools to bookmark and use. • Airplane Seating and Food. Find out which seats to reserve and which to avoid (and more) on all major domestic airlines at www.seatguru.com. And check out the type of meal (with photos) you’ll likely be served on airlines around the world at www.airlinemeals.net. • Foreign Languages for Travelers (www.travlang.com). Learn basic terms in more than 70 languages and click on any underlined phrase to hear what it sounds like. • Intellicast (www.intellicast.com) and Weather.com (www.weather.com). Give weather forecasts for all 50 states and for cities around the world. • Mapquest (www.mapquest.com). This best of the mapping sites lets you choose a specific address or destination, and in seconds returns a map and detailed directions. • Time and Date (www.timeanddate.com). See what time (and day) it is anywhere in the world. • Travel Warnings (http://travel.state.gov, www.fco.gov.uk/travel, www. voyage.gc.ca, www.dfat.gov.au/consular/advice). These sites report on places where health concerns or unrest might threaten American, British, Canadian, and Australian travelers. Generally, U.S. warnings are the most paranoid; Australian warnings are the most relaxed. • Universal Currency Converter (www.xe.com/ucc). See what your dollar or pound is worth in more than 100 other countries. • Visa ATM Locator (www.visa.com), for locations of PLUS ATMs world- wide, or MasterCard ATM Locator (www.mastercard.com), for locations of Cirrus ATMs worldwide.
CUC$6 per day, with a CUC$3 daily CUC$20, and CUC$40. Rates inside activation fee. You’ll have to leave around Cuba run between CUC50¢ and a CUC$200 deposit and purchase a pre- CUC60¢ per minute, depending on the paid calling card. If you have your own hour and destination called, and you are phone, you will just have to pay the charged for both outgoing and incoming CUC$3 daily activation fee. Cubacel calls. Rates to the rest of the world run works with both TDMA phones and between CUC$1.50 and CUC$5 per GSM systems. Prepaid calling cards are minute. sold in denominations of CUC$10,
11 Getting There BY PLANE and Santiago de Cuba as well. To a lesser Cuba has 12 international airports. extent, international charter flights from Havana is by far the principal gateway, Canada and Europe service Cayo Largo although there are numerous regularly del Sur, Cienfuegos, Camagüey, Ciego de scheduled and charter flights to Varadero 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 41
GETTING THERE 41 Avila, Holguín, and Cayo Coco and Cayo America; www.mexicana.com), and Vir- Guillermo. gin Atlantic (& 800/821-5438 in the It’s roughly a 70-minute flight from U.S. or Canada, or 0870/574-7747 in Miami to Havana; 3 hours and 30 min- the U.K.; www.virgin-atlantic.com). utes from New York to Havana; 4 hours There is no regularly scheduled service and 30 minutes from Toronto or Mon- between the United States and Cuba, treal to Havana; and 10 hours from Lon- although there are numerous charter don to Havana. Most of the principal flights from Miami, and to a lesser extent Caribbean basin gateway cities—Can- from New York and Los Angeles. cún, Gran Cayman, Kingston, Nassau, Licensed U.S. travelers are eligible to use and Santo Domingo—are between 30 these flights. For more information, see and 90 minutes to Havana by air. “Package Deals, Escorted Tours & Spe- Airfares vary widely, depending on the cial-Interest Vacations,” below. season, demand, and certain ticketing FLYING FOR LESS: TIPS FOR restrictions. But given the high number GETTING THE BEST AIRFARE of charter flights and package tours to Cuba, combined with the stiff competi- Passengers sharing the same airplane cabin tion for vacation travel throughout the rarely pay the same fare. Here are some Caribbean, airfares are relatively cheap, ways to keep your airfare costs down. and bargains abound. It really pays to • Passengers who can book their ticket shop around. either long in advance or at the last Cubana (& 7/834-4446; www. minute, or who fly midweek or at cubana.cu) is Cuba’s national airline and less-trafficked hours may pay a frac- the principal carrier to the island, with tion of the full fare. If your schedule regularly scheduled flights to a score of is flexible, say so, and ask if you can cities throughout the Americas, Europe, secure a cheaper fare by changing and Canada. Other carriers with regularly your flight plans. scheduled or charter service to Cuba • Search the Internet for cheap fares include: Air Jamaica (& 800/523-5585 (see “Planning Your Trip Online,” in North America, or 0207/962-9934 in earlier in this chapter). the U.K.; www.airjamaica.com), Air • Keep an eye on local newspapers for Canada (& 888/247-2262 in North promotional specials or fare wars, America, or 0871/220-1111 in the when airlines lower prices on their U.K.; www.aircanada.com), Air Europa most popular routes. You rarely see (& 0870/777-7709; www.air-europa. fare wars offered for peak travel com), Air Transat (& 866/847-1112; times, but if you can travel in the off- www.airtransat.com), British Airways months, you may snag a bargain. (& 800/247-9297, or 0870/850-9850 in • Consolidators, also known as bucket the U.K.; www.britishairways.com), shops, are great sources for interna- Condor Airways (& 800/364-1667 in tional tickets. Start by looking in North America; www3.condor.com), Sunday newspaper travel sections. Grupo Taca (& 800/722-8222 in the For less-developed destinations, small U.S. or Canada, or 0870/241-0340 in travel agents who cater to immigrant the U.K.; www.grupotaca.com), Iberia communities in large cities often have (& 0870/609-0500 in the U.K.; www. the best deals. Beware: Bucket shop iberia.com), Martinair (& 416/364- tickets are usually nonrefundable or 3672 in Canada; www.martinair.com), rigged with stiff cancellation penal- Mexicana (& 800/531-3585 in North ties, often as high as 50% to 75% of 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 42
42 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO CUBA the ticket price, and some put you on Petersen’s Inside Flyer (www.inside charter airlines, which may leave at flyer.com). Petersen and friends inconvenient times and experience review all the programs in detail and delays. Several reliable consolidators post regular updates on changes in are worldwide and available online. policies and trends. Petersen will also STA Travel has been the world’s lead field direct questions (via e-mail) if a consolidator for students since pur- partner airline refuses to redeem chasing Council Travel, but their points, for instance, or if you’re still fares are competitive for travelers of not sure after researching the various all ages. ELTExpress (Flights.com) programs which one is right for you. (& 800/874-8800; www.eltexpress. It’s well worth the $12 online sub- com) has excellent fares worldwide. scription fee, good for 1 year. They also have “local” websites in LONG-HAUL FLIGHTS: HOW 12 countries. Air Tickets Direct TO STAY COMFORTABLE (& 800/778-3447; www.airtickets direct.com) is based in Montreal and Long flights can be trying; stuffy air and leverages the currently weak Cana- cramped seats can make you feel as if dian dollar for low fares; they also you’re being sent parcel post in a small book trips to places that U.S. travel box. But with a little advance planning, agents won’t touch, such as Cuba. you can make an otherwise unpleasant • Join frequent-flier clubs. Frequent- experience almost bearable. flier membership doesn’t cost a cent, • Your choice of airline and airplane but it does entitle you to better seats, will definitely affect your leg room. faster response to phone inquiries, Find more details at www.seatguru. and prompter service if your luggage com, which has extensive details is stolen or your flight is canceled or about almost every seat on six major delayed, or if you want to change U.S. airlines. For international air- your seat. And you don’t have to fly lines, research firm Skytrax has to earn points; frequent-flier credit posted a list of average seat pitches at cards can earn you thousands of www.airlinequality.com. miles for doing your everyday shop- • Emergency exit seats and bulkhead ping. With more than 70 mileage seats typically have the most legroom. awards programs on the market, con- Emergency exit seats are usually left sumers have never had more options, unassigned until the day of a flight but the system has never been more (to ensure that someone able-bodied complicated—with major airlines fills the seats); it’s worth getting to folding, new budget carriers emerg- the ticket counter early to snag one of ing, and alliances forming (allowing these spots for a long flight. Many you to earn points on partner air- passengers find that bulkhead seating lines). Investigate the program details (the row facing the wall at the front of your favorite airlines before you of the cabin) offers more legroom, sink points into any one. Consider but keep in mind that bulkheads are which airlines have hubs in the airport where airlines often put baby nearest you, and, of those carriers, bassinets, so you may be sitting next which have the most advantageous to an infant. alliances, given your most common • To have two seats for yourself in a routes. To play the frequent-flier game three-seat row, try for an aisle seat in to your best advantage, consult Randy a center section toward the back of 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 43
GETTING THERE 43
Tips Coping with Jet Lag Jet lag is a pitfall of traveling across time zones. If you’re flying north–south and you feel sluggish when you touch down, your symptoms will be the result of dehydration and the general stress of air travel. When you travel east–west or vice versa, however, your body becomes thoroughly confused about what time it is, and everything from your digestion to your brain is knocked for a loop. Traveling east, say from Chicago to Paris, is more difficult on your inter- nal clock than traveling west, say from Atlanta to Hawaii, because most peo- ples’ bodies are more inclined to stay up late than fall asleep early. Here are some tips for combating jet lag: • Reset your watch to your destination time before you board the plane. • Drink lots of water before, during, and after your flight. Avoid alcohol. • Exercise and sleep well for a few days before your trip. • If you have trouble sleeping on planes, fly eastward on morning flights. • Daylight is the key to resetting your body clock. At the website for Outside In (www.bodyclock.com), you can get a customized plan of when to seek and avoid light. • If you need help getting to sleep earlier than you usually would, some doc- tors recommend taking either the hormone melatonin or the sleeping pill Ambien—but not together. Some recommend that you take 2 to 5 mil- ligrams of melatonin about 2 hours before your planned bedtime—but again, always check with your doctor on the best course of action for you.
coach. If you’re traveling with a com- reserve a window seat so you can rest panion, book an aisle and a window your head and avoid being bumped seat. Middle seats are usually booked in the aisle. last, so chances are good you’ll end up • Get up, walk around, and stretch with three seats to yourselves. In the every 60 to 90 minutes to keep your event that a third passenger is blood flowing. This helps avoid deep assigned the middle seat, he or she vein thrombosis, or “economy-class will probably be more than happy to syndrome,” a potentially deadly con- trade for a window or an aisle. dition caused by sitting in cramped • Ask about entertainment options. conditions for too long. Other pre- Many airlines offer seatback video ventive measures include drinking systems where you get to choose your lots of water and avoiding alcohol movies or play video games—but (see next bullet). only on some of their planes. (Boeing • Drink water before, during, and after 777s are your best bet.) your flight to combat the lack of • To sleep, avoid the last row of any humidity in airplane cabins—which section or the row in front of an can be drier than the Sahara. Bring a emergency exit, as these seats are the bottle of water on board. Avoid alco- least likely to recline. Avoid seats near hol, which will dehydrate you. highly trafficked toilet areas. Avoid • If you’re flying with kids, don’t forget seats in the back of many jets—these to carry on toys, books, pacifiers, and can be narrower than those in the rest chewing gum to help them relieve ear of coach. You also may want to pressure buildup during ascent and 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 44
44 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO CUBA descent. Let each child pack his or This permit costs around CUC$50 her own backpack with favorite toys. depending on the length of the vessel. Cuba has a network of state-run, full- BY BOAT service marinas. Those that function as When arriving by sea, contact the port official points of entry and exit include authorities before entering Cuban waters their marinas in Jardines del Rey, María la 19km (12 miles) offshore on VHF chan- Gorda, Cayo Largo del Sur, Cienfuegos, nels 16, 19, or 68, or HF channel 2760. and Santiago de Cuba, as well as the Skippers do not need to give advance Marina Hemingway in Havana and notice or have a prior visa. If you plan on Marina Dársena in Varadero. For more staying in the country for more than 72 information on the specific marinas, see hours, each crew member must apply for the respective destination chapters. a tourist visa, which can be arranged by Good resources for any sailor planning the harbormaster. All crew members must to visit Cuba are Simon Charles’s The have current passports, and United States Cruising Guide To Cuba (Cruising Guide Treasury Department restrictions (see Publications, 1997) and Nigel Calder’s “Entry Requirements & Customs,” ear- Cuba: A Cruising Guide (Imray, Laurie, lier in this chapter) apply to all U.S. citi- Norie & Wilson, 1999). While a little zens. Skippers will also need to register dated, both books are full of invaluable their vessel upon arrival. A special permit, information, tips, and firsthand experi- or permiso especial de navigación, is issued. ences aimed at cruising sailors.
12 Package Deals, Escorted Tours & Special-Interest Vacations PACKAGE DEALS & ESCORTED Package tours can vary by leaps and TOURS bounds. Some offer a better class of hotels Before you start your search for the lowest than others. Some offer the same hotels airfare, you may want to consider booking for lower prices. Some offer flights on your flight as part of a travel package or an scheduled airlines, while others book escorted tour. What you might lose in charters. Some limit your choice of adventure, you’ll gain in time and money accommodations and travel days. You are saved when you book accommodations, often required to make a large payment and maybe even food and entertainment, upfront. On the plus side, packages can along with your flight. save you money, offering group prices but Packages are not the same thing as allowing for independent travel. Some escorted tours. With a package, you travel even let you add on a few guided excur- independently but pay a group rate. Pack- sions or escorted day trips (also at prices ages usually include airfare, a choice of lower than if you booked them yourself) hotels, and car rentals, and packagers often without booking an entirely escorted tour. offer several options at different prices. In Escorted tours are structured group many cases, a package that includes airfare, tours, with a group leader. The price usu- hotel, and transportation to and from the ally includes everything from airfare to airport will cost you less than just the hotel hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and alone would have, had you booked it your- local transportation. This is a particularly self. That’s because packages are sold in popular option for U.S. citizens who bulk to tour operators—who resell them don’t want to deal with the bureaucracy to the public at a cost that drastically of applying for an individual travel undercuts standard rates. license. In most cases, escorted tours for 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 45
PACKAGE DEALS, ESCORTED TOURS & SPECIAL-INTEREST VACATIONS 45 U.S. citizens will include the Treasury Discuss what is included in the price. Department license. You may have to pay for transportation to Escorted tours—whether they’re navi- and from the airport. A box lunch may be gated by bus, motorcoach, train, or included in an excursion, but drinks boat—let travelers sit back and enjoy the might cost extra. Tips may not be trip without having to drive or worry included. Find out if you will be charged about details. They take you to the maxi- if you decide to opt out of certain activi- mum number of sights in the minimum ties or meals. amount of time with the least amount of Before you invest in a package or hassle. They’re particularly convenient for escorted tour, get some answers. Ask people with limited mobility and they about the accommodations choices and can be a great way to make new friends. prices for each. Then look up the hotels’ On the downside, you’ll have little reviews in a Frommer’s guide and check opportunity for serendipitous interac- their rates online for your specific dates of tions with locals. The tours can be jam- travel. You’ll also want to find out what packed with activities, leaving little room type of room you get. If you need a cer- for individual sightseeing, whim, or tain type of room, ask for it; don’t take adventure—plus they also often focus on whatever is thrown your way. Finally, the heavily touristed sites, so you miss out look for hidden expenses. Ask whether many a lesser-known gem. airport departure fees and taxes, for Before you invest in an escorted tour, example, are included in the total cost. request a complete schedule of the trip to RECOMMENDED PACKAGE & find out how much sightseeing is planned ESCORTED TOUR OPERATORS and whether you’ll have enough time to From the U.S. relax or have an adventure of your own. Also ask about the cancellation policy: Is There are over a hundred licensed travel a deposit required? Can they cancel the service providers in the United States; trip if enough people don’t sign up? Do almost all offer charter flights and pack- you get a refund if they cancel? If you can- ages. Some of the best and most reputable cel? How late can you cancel if you are are: unable to go? When must you pay in full? • ABC Charters (& 305/263-6829; If you choose an escorted tour, think www.abc-charters.com) is an excellent strongly about purchasing trip-cancella- TSP and charter company based in tion insurance, especially if the tour oper- Miami. ator asks you to pay in advance. See the • Marazul Tours (& 800/223-5334 or section on “Travel Insurance,” p. 29. If 201/319-3900; www.marazultours. you plan to travel alone, find out if they’ll com) is a major operator for East charge a single supplement or whether Coast–based Cuban-Americans and they can pair you with a roommate. their family members. The size of the group is also important • Tico Travel (& 800/493-8426 in to know upfront. Generally, the smaller the U.S. or Canada, or 954/493- the group, the more flexible the itinerary, 8426; www.destinationcuba.com) is a and the less time you’ll spend waiting for dependable company with operations people to get on and off the bus. Find out throughout much of Latin America. the demographics of the group as well. From Canada What is the age range? What is the gen- In addition to the agencies listed below, der breakdown? Is this mostly a trip for Canadian travelers, and others using couples or singles? Canada as a gateway, can check directly 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 46
46 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO CUBA
with Air Transat Holidays (& 866/322- • Caribbean Destinations (& 03/ 6649 in the U.S. and Canada; www.air 9813-5258; www.caribbeanislands. transatholidays.com), the tour agency com.au) is another Australian-based arm of one of the principal charter flight specialist in travel throughout the companies to Cuba. Caribbean. • Sol Meliá Cuba (& 416/533-8585; Cuba-Based Agencies www.solmeliacuba.com) is the Cana- • Cubalinda (& 7/204-5584; www. dian-based tour agency arm of the Sol cubalinda.com) is an excellent agency Meliá company. that provides hands-on service, and is • Signature Travel (& 866/324- especially adept at helping non- 2883; www.signaturevacations.com) licensed U.S. travelers understand is the largest tour and package opera- and work with the various options tor in Canada, with offices in open to them. Toronto, Montreal, Winnipeg, and • Cuba Welcome (& 020/7731- Vancouver. 6871 in the U.K., or 7/863-3885 in From the U.K. Cuba; www.cubawelcome.com) is a • Cuba Welcome (& 020/7731- U.K.-based operator that has an 6871; www.cubawelcome.com) is a excellent operation on the ground in good U.K.-based operator with a Cuba. knowledgeable and dependable oper- SPECIAL-INTEREST VACATIONS ation on the ground in Cuba. There are plenty of options for a special- • Go Cuba Plus (www.gocubaplus. interest or theme vacation to Cuba. Pop- com) is a well-established Web-based ular themes include cigars, Ernest operator, with offices and representa- Hemingway, classic cars, bird-watching, tion throughout Europe and the and Latin dance. In addition to the agen- British Virgin Islands. & cies and operators listed below, most of • Regent Holidays ( 0870/499- the package and escort tour operators 1311; www.regent-cuba.com) is the listed above offer a selection of themed specialized Cuba unit of this U.K. specialty tours. tour operator. & • Journey Latin America (& 020/ • GAP Adventures ( 800/708- 8747-3108; www.journeylatin 7761 in the U.S. and Canada, or america.co.uk) is a large U.K.-based 0870/999-0144 in the U.K.; www. operator for trips throughout the gapadventures.com) is a major inter- hemisphere, with often very good national adventure and educational deals on airfare. tour operator with a full plate of & theme tours to Cuba. • Thomas Cook ( 0870/750- & 5011; www.thomascook.com) is a • Global Exchange ( 415/255- major U.K.-based operator for trips 7296; www.globalexchange.org) is a around the world, with excellent nonprofit organization working to operations in Cuba. increase international understanding by conducting small-scale tours that From Australia & New Zealand emphasize educational or social aid • Caribbean Bound (& 02/9267- themes. 2555; www.caribbean.com.au) is a • Paradiso (& 7/832-9538) is the specialist in travel throughout the tour agency arm of the Cuban arts Caribbean. and cultural organization ARTex. 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 47
THE ACTIVE VACATION PLANNER 47 Paradiso organizes theme tours and and cultural events, as well as partici- escorted trips, including tours based patory learning trips with instruction around most of the major festivals in a variety of arts.
13 The Active Vacation Planner Active tourism is in its relative infancy in and gloves—to leave behind. It’ll be Cuba. Still, the island offers myriad greatly appreciated and is a great means opportunities to add a bit of adrenaline of getting into a game. and adventure to your vacation. Water- BIKING With a local reliance on bicy- sports are the main draw here, and Cuba cles for everyday transportation and a rel- abounds with outstanding opportunities atively well-maintained road network to fish, sail, snorkel, and scuba dive. For serving a small motor vehicular fleet, those looking for some dry-land adven- Cuba is a great country to tour by bicycle. ture activities, there are great options for There are very few operations renting biking and rock climbing, and you might decent bikes in Cuba, so it’s best to bring even be able to get on a diamond to play your own. I also recommend organized some baseball. trips, as the logistics of traveling through BASEBALL Baseball is the national Cuba still make it a bit difficult for inde- sport and, after salsa dancing and sex, pendent bike touring. One dependable Cuba’s greatest national passion. Cuba’s operation offering regular bike tours and amateur players are considered some of quality bike rentals in Cuba is Wow the best in the world, and the premier Cuba (& 800/969-2822 or 902/368- players are aggressively scouted and 2453; www.wowcuba.com). Anyone courted by Major League Baseball. The thinking of bicycling in Cuba should pick regular season runs November through up a copy of Wally and Barbara Smith’s March, and playoffs and the final cham- Bicycling Cuba: Fifty Days of Detailed pionship usually carry the season on into Rides from Havana to Pinar Del Río and May. Most major towns and cities have a the Oriente (Backcountry Guides, 2002). local team. Some of the consistently bet- BIRD-WATCHING Over 350 resident ter teams include Pinar del Río, Sancti and migratory species of birds can be spot- Spíritus, Santiago de Cuba, Santa Clara, ted in Cuba, including some 24 endemic and of course Havana’s Industriales. It’s species. True, experienced Cuban bird usually easy to buy tickets at the box guides are still rare, and there are few office for less than 5 Cuban pesos, or ask established bird-watching tour operations at your hotel and perhaps they can get in Cuba. A couple of organized tour you tickets in advance. options are offered by the British company If you want to actually get out and Cuba Welcome (& 020/7731-6871 in play, you should be able to find a pickup the U.K.; www.cubawelcome.com) and game to join. Although they have tem- the Canadian operation Quest Nature porarily suspended their organized trips, Tours (& 416/633-5666; www.quest check out the website of Baseball Adven- naturetours.com). Some of the best places tures (& 707/937-4478; www.baseball to go bird-watching in Cuba include La adventures.com), which used to offer Güira National Park, the Zapata Penin- fully-hosted trips geared toward serious sula, Cayo Coco and Cayo Guillermo, players looking to play and train with the Sierra Maestra mountain region, and local Cuban pros. Baracoa. Bird-watchers will want to Tip: If you’re planning on playing, bring a copy of Birds of Cuba (Comstock bring some extra equipment—balls, bats, 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 48
48 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO CUBA Publishing, 2000), by Orlando Garrido, Climbing (www.cubaclimbing.com) can Arturo Kirkconnell, et al. point you to the right rocks and answer FISHING There’s fabulous deep-sea any questions you might have. sportfishing for marlin, sailfish, tuna, SAILING Whether you take a day sail, dorado, and more off of most of Cuba’s or decide to go cruising the coastline for extensive coastline, while the Zapata a week or so, opportunities to sail the Peninsula and Cayo Largo del Sur may clear waters off Cuba abound. The state- just be some of the best and least exploited run marinas in Varadero, Jardines del bonefishing spots left in the hemisphere. Rey, Camaguey, Santiago, Cienfuegos, The mountain lake and resort of Hana- and Cayo Largo del Sur all offer charter banilla is getting good grades as a freshwa- sailboats, as well as a variety of day sailing ter ground for widemouth and black bass. options. See the individual destination A half-day of fishing should cost between chapters for more information. CUC$150 and CUC$400, while a full SCUBA DIVING & SNORKELING day can run between CUC$300 and There are fabulous scuba diving and snor- CUC$1,400, including gear and lunch, keling opportunities on the coral reefs, depending on the size of the boat and ocean walls, and ancient wrecks that lie number of fishermen. There’s a broad just off Cuba’s coasts. María la Gorda, network of state-run marinas all around Isla de la Juventud, Playa Larga, Playa Cuba; the greatest number are run by Girón, and Los Jardines de la Reina Cubanacán (& 7/208-6044; www. are widely considered the absolute top cubanacan.cu) and Gaviota (& 7/66- scuba-diving destinations, but in each 9668; www.gaviota-grupo.com). All offer case, the accommodations options are sportfishing charters. For more informa- either rustic or decidedly geared toward tion, see individual destination chapters. hard-core dive enthusiasts and almost GOLF The country’s only regulation no one else. You will also find perfectly 18-hole golf course is the Varadero Golf acceptable dive opportunities and opera- Club (& 45/66-8442; www.varadero tions in Varadero, Cayo Coco, Cayo golfclub.com). The course is a relatively Guillermo, Guardalavaca, and Cayo flat resort course, with lots of water, Largo del Sur, as well as far more com- plenty of sand, great views, and almost no fortable and varied accommodations. For rough. Greens fees run CUC$77 for a more information, see specific destina- round, plus an extra CUC$33 for a cart. tion chapters. Club rental will cost you CUC$15. SURFING Cuba is not considered a Golfers would probably want to stay at world-class surfing destination, and there the adjacent Meliá Las Américas (& 45/ are very few Cuban surfers or surf tourists. 66-7600; www.solmeliacuba.com), Still, this is part of the charm of surfing in although you can make reservations and Cuba, and there are waves and breaks all play here from any hotel in the area. along the island’s long coastline, including In Havana, there’s the Club de Golf right off the Malecón in Havana. For Habana, Carretera Vento Km 8, Cap- good information and a primer, check out devila, Rancho Boyeros (& 7/55-8746 www.havanasurf-cuba.com. You will or 7/649-8820), which has a decent little definitely have to bring your own board, 9-hole course. and I would recommend bringing a board MOUNTAIN & ROCK CLIMBING (or two) that you wouldn’t mind leaving These sports are in their infancy in Cuba, behind for some very appreciative Cuban but excellent opportunities abound, espe- grommet. cially around the Viñales Valley. Cuba 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 49
GETTING AROUND 49 TENNIS Many of the large-scale beach Miramar, Avenida 5, between Calles 78 resorts have tennis courts. Almost all are and 80, Miramar, Playa (& 7/204-3584), outdoor courts, and very few are lit. If which has six courts, or head to the Club you’re set on playing tennis on your trip, Habana, Avenida 5, between Calles 188 be sure to check in advance if you hotel or and 192, Reparto Flores, Playa (& 7/ resort has courts. Your options are much 204-5700), or Club de Golf Habana, more limited in Havana, unless you’re Carretera Vento Km 8, Capdevila, Ran- staying at one of the few city hotels with cho Boyeros (& 7/55-8746), which each a court. Your best bet in Havana is to have a few courts open to the general pub- try to book a court at the Occidental lic. All charge around CUC$10 per hour.
14 Getting Around BY CAR The main car-rental companies are Driving a rental car is an excellent way to Cubacar (& 7/273-2277; www. travel around Cuba. The roads are gener- cubanacan.cu); Havanautos (& 7/835- ally in pretty good condition, and there’s 3142; www.havanautos.cu); Micar (& 7/ very little traffic—although you’ll have 204-8888); Transtur (& 7/862-2686 or to keep a sharp eye out for horse-drawn 7/861-5885; www.transtur.cu); and Vía carriages, slow-moving tractors, scores of Rent A Car (& 7/861-4465; www. bicyclists, and pedestrians taking over gaviota-grupo.com). All have desks at major roadways. There are a handful of the airport, and at a host of major state-run car-rental companies, with a hotels around Havana and the rest of the large, modern fleet of rental cars to country. choose from. Prices and selection are All car-rental agencies in Cuba offer rather standard, with an abundance of insurance coverage for between CUC$10 small, economy Japanese and Korean and CUC$20 per day. Coverage is some- cars to choose from. A rental car should times obligatory. Most carry a CUC$200 cost you between CUC$45 and to CUC$750 deductible. Some do not CUC$75 per day, including insurance cover theft, but this is a very minor prob- and unlimited mileage. Some agencies lem in Cuba. If you hold a private auto start you off with a full tank of gas that insurance policy, you may be covered they charge you for—above the rental abroad for loss or damage to the car, and fee—then give no credit for any gas left liability in case a passenger is injured. The in the tank upon returning the car. Dis- credit card you used to rent the car also counts are available for multiday rentals. may provide some coverage. However, be It’s always a good idea to have a reserva- sure to check whether or not your insur- tion in advance, especially during peak ance company or credit card coverage periods, when cars can get a little scarce. excludes rental cars in Cuba. Moreover, However, there’s a Catch-22 here, in that this type of coverage probably does not many of the state-run agencies don’t have cover liability if you caused the accident. a trustworthy international reservations Check your own auto insurance policy, system. As is the case with rampant over- the rental company policy, and your credit booking of hotel rooms, when demand card coverage for the extent of coverage. outstrips supply, the car-rental agencies Be very thorough when checking out will often not honor your seemingly con- your car, and make sure that all accouter- firmed reservation. ments (like a spare tire, jack, and radio) are present and accounted for. Moreover, be sure to have the agent note every little 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 50
50 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO CUBA nick and scratch, or you risk being important safety measure. Cuba’s railroad charged for them upon your car’s return. network crisscrosses its highway system at Gasoline costs around CUC$1 per numerous points. Trains rarely slow down liter, or CUC$3.80 per gallon. Gone are and even rarer still are protective cross- the gas shortages of several years ago. Serv- bars or warning lights. Police often hang ice stations are plentiful and conveniently out at railroad crossings, both to warn located on the major highways and in drivers when a train is coming and to dole most major towns and cities. out tickets to those who don’t come to a Every car-rental agency will provide stop. you with a decent road map. Alternately BY PLANE you can try to get a copy of the Interna- & tional Travel Map: Cuba (ITMB Pub- Cubana ( 7/834-4446; www.cubana. lishing; www.itmb.com) before arriving, cu) is the principal national and interna- or you can see what maps are available at tional carrier for Cuba. The other princi- pal commuter and charter carriers are the various hotel gift shops and tourist & stores. AeroCaribbean ( 7/879-7524; www. aero-caribbean.com), Aerogaviota (& 7/ While driving is generally easy and & stress-free, there are a couple of concerns 203-0668), and Aerotaxi ( 7/836- for most foreign drivers here. First (and 4064). Among the four of them, there’s a most annoying) is the fact that there are full schedule of commuter flights con- very, very few road signs and directional necting Havana and Varadero with the aids. The Ministry of Tourism is aware destination cities of Baracoa, Bayamo, that this is a major problem, and I have Camagüey, Ciego de Avila, Manzanillo, been expecting them to address this for Nueva Gerona (Isla de la Juventud), the past 5 years or so. As of yet, they’ve Guantánamo, Holguín, Santiago de made very little progress. Secondly, there’s Cuba, Las Tunas, Cayo Largo, and Cayo the issue of hitchhikers. Cuba’s public Coco. Fares average around CUC$60 to transportation network is grossly over- CUC$120 one-way. The exception is Isla burdened and hitchhiking is a way of life. de la Juventud, which costs just CUC$25 The highways sometimes seem like one to CUC$50 each way from Havana. If long line, with periodic swellings, of peo- you know you’ll need an internal flight, ple asking for a lift, or botella. While cases try to have your travel agent or tour oper- of kidnappings and muggings of drivers ator book it in advance. If not, you can offering lifts are rare, you should still take easily book flights from the tour desks at care in whom you pick up. However, the almost any hotel in Cuba. biggest hassle of offering rides is twofold: BY BUS When you stop, you are likely to be For all intents and purposes, the only swarmed by supplicants, who will want to buses a tourist will ride in Cuba are those stuff your car to the brink of its carrying run by Víazul (& 7/881-1413; www. capacity; and most hitchhikers are look- viazul.com). In general, Víazul buses are ing for relatively short hops, so once you modern and comfortable. Since the tick- pick up a load you might find yourself ets must be paid in hard currency, which suddenly making constant stops to let precludes most Cubans from using them, your passengers off—at which point there there is less demand and greater availabil- will almost certainly be a new rider ity. While it is possible for tourists to immediately vying to snag the just-emp- travel on standard Cuban buses, it is tied seat. often complex, impractical and problem- One final note: Stop at all railroad atic—and you will almost certainly be crossings! It’s the law, and it’s also an 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 51
TIPS ON ACCOMMODATIONS 51 charged in CUC, at rates just slightly Unlike the state-run bus service, there cheaper than Víazul. are usually seats available on most trains. Víazul travels to most major tourist However, most trains are in rather bad destinations in Cuba. The main Víazul shape, with uncomfortable seats and lim- station is located in Nuevo Vedado, ited amenities. Be sure to bring along Havana, across from the metropolitan some food and something to drink. Even zoo. However, some of their routes, if there’s a cafeteria car onboard, which including the popular Viñales and Pinar isn’t always the case, you might not find del Río route, can be booked and boarded any of their offerings particularly appeal- at the main bus terminal near the Plaza de ing, and they might just run out some- la Revolución. For schedules and prices, where along the line. Moreover, train see the regional chapters that follow. travel in Cuba is notoriously erratic, with frequent schedule changes and delays. It BY TRAIN is always best to check current schedules The state-run train agency, Ferrocuba & and conditions before buying a ticket and ( 7/861-8540 or 7/862-8081), has undertaking a train journey. offices in each train station. Havana is The most attractive rail option for connected to Pinar del Río in the west, travelers is the 12-hour express train to and Santiago de Cuba in the east by reg- Santiago de Cuba leaving Havana each ular rail traffic. There are usually one or evening at 6:05pm; the fare is CUC$50 two trains a day heading west, and a half- to CUC$62. This train only makes stops dozen or so heading east. Intermediate in Santa Clara and Camagüey, and is the cities with regular service include Matan- most modern and comfortable train in zas, Santa Clara, Ciego de Avila, Cam- the whole national system. For more agüey, Las Tunas, and Holguín. The information on traveling by train, see the principal train station, or Estación Cen- regional chapters that follow. tral, is located in Havana at Calle Egido and Calle Arsenal, Habana Vieja (& 7/ 862-1920 or 7/861-4259).
15 Tips on Accommodations Most hotel options in Cuba have been colonial heart of some of Cuba’s more divvied up among a few large state-run interesting cities. chains: Islazul, Gaviota, Cubanacán, In recent years, these large state-run Gran Caribe, and Habaguanex. These companies have begun signing manage- chains generally stake out distinct territo- ment contracts with international hotel ries. Habaguanex has near monopoly chains, usually resulting in improved control over the hotel scene in Habana service and hospitality. While the interna- Vieja in Havana. Their properties tend to tional Barceló, Corralia, Maritim, and be in the midrange to upper end, and Occidental chains run a few hotels each, most are in beautifully restored colonial predominantly in Havana and Varadero, buildings. Gaviota, Cubanacán, and the major player is the Spanish Sol Meliá Gran Caribe divvy up the remainder of chain, which manages 25 midrange to the midrange to upper-end offerings high-end properties in Cuba. In general, around the country. Islazul runs the most the Sol Meliá hotels are some of the best economical hotels, although they have run and most comfortable in the country. begun refurbishing some real gems in the At most of Cuba’s principal beach resorts, the majority of hotels are large 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 52
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Tips Snuggle Up King- and queen-size beds are at a premium in Cuba. Very few of the midrange options offer beds big enough for two adults, and even some of the fancier hotels, including many of the Habaguanex properties, only offer rooms with two twins.
all-inclusive resorts. Most work with to be a blue capital “H” set on its side, large groups of Canadian and European with slightly bent horizontal lines, and the travelers on weeklong charter packages. top horizontal line longer than the bot- These feature a steady diet of buffet tom one. It should also say arrendador meals, organized activities and entertain- divisa. Alternately, you might see one of ment, and late-night revelry. These are the older plaques or stickers with of one or not the places to come if you want to two inverted blue or green “V”s. Follow- explore and experience Cuba and its cul- ing a recent policy change, casas particu- ture. Also, if you’re staying at an all-inclu- lares can have no more than two rooms sive, you should book the a la carte for rent. Most are quite modest—you are restaurant options as soon as possible basically living with a Cuban family. It’s a during peak seasons, or you’ll be eating all crapshoot whether or not they’ll have a your meals at the crowded buffets. private bathroom. On the upside, most Aside from official hotels and resorts, casas particulares offer meals at very rea- the other principal lodging option in sonable prices, and staying in one is a Cuba is a casa particular, or private great way to meet and interact with house. To meet demand and inject just a Cubans (something much, much harder bit of economic relief (and nascent capi- to do at “official” hotels and resorts). talism) into the system, the government Be aware that if you show up at a casa has authorized certain households to rent particular on the recommendation of a out rooms. An official casa particular taxi driver or jinetero, they will expect a should display a small plaque or sticker commission of between CUC$1 and declaring it to be a government sanc- CUC$5, which is invariably added on to tioned casa. The newest symbol appears your bill.
16 Tips on Dining Do not come to Cuba for fine dining. In addition to hotel restaurants and While it’s possible to minimize the pain, official state-run tourist restaurants, the finding good food, service, and value is a principal dining option in Cuba is the challenge in Cuba. Most restaurants that paladar. Like casas particulares, paladares cater to tourists are run by large state- are private homes that have been granted owned corporations, and as a whole they permission to serve foreign tourists. Pala- are often overpriced and mediocre. Even dares are small, with a seating limit of just the popular and highly touted restaurants 12, and subject to various limitations. here often suffer from inconsistency and They cannot serve shrimp or lobster for indifferent service. Note: Be especially on instance, and cannot accept credit cards. the lookout for overcharging, either in They are also heavily taxed by the state. the form of phantom charges or inflated However, Cubans are a creative lot and prices. you will find paladares that have figured ways around many of these limitations. 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 53
TIPS ON DINING 53 Paladares tend to open and close, move, or LOCAL CUISINE change their name or menu with great fre- Cuban, or criolla, cuisine is a mix of Euro- quency. They also often run out of menu pean (predominantly Spanish) and Afro- items, or simply can’t find the raw materi- Caribbean influences. The staples of the als to begin the day with. However, there cuisine include roasted and fried pork, are some dependable and long-standing beef, and chicken, usually accompanied paladares. In fact, several of these are by rice, beans, plantains, and yucca. among the best restaurants in the country. Oddly, Cubans do not eat large amounts At these, you’ll almost certainly need a of seafood, although fish and lobster reservation, or be prepared to wait. dishes are on the menu at most tourist In general, you should tip between restaurants. In general, Cubans do not use 10% and 15%, keeping in mind that this aggressive amounts of spice or hot pep- represents a huge amount of hard cur- pers, although onions, garlic, and, to a rency for most Cubans. Some restaurants much lesser extent, cumin are used fairly add a 10% service charge to bills; whether liberally. or not it’s actually given to the waitstaff is With the exception of breakfast, most questionable. Also, if you show up at a meals come accompanied with some paladar on the recommendation of a taxi combination of white rice and beans. driver or jinetero, they will expect a com- Arroz moro, or moros y cristianos (Moors mission of between CUC$3 and CUC$5, and Christians), is the common name for which is often added to your bill. black beans mixed with white rice. Con- Given the unique economic and social grí is a similar dish of red beans and white conditions of Cuba, there is little street rice already mixed. Sometimes the rice food to speak of, aside from a few odd and beans are served separately. pizza and ice-cream vendors. Cuban The national dish—which unfortu- street pizza features heavy dough, with a nately you won’t often find on restaurant molten mess of sauce and gooey cheese menus, but it’s worth sampling if you topping, served as small individual discs do—is ajiaco, a chunky meat and veg- on wax paper. etable stew. Ajiaco comes from the Taíno With a recent influx of foreign capital word “aji” for chile pepper, although the and a move toward modernization, fast- dish is seldom prepared very spicy. You’re food chains have begun popping up much more likely to find ropa vieja (liter- around Cuba. The most prominent of ally, “old clothes”), a sauté of shredded these is El Rápido, which has numerous beef, onions, and peppers; or picadillo, a outlets serving fried chicken, burgers, hot similar concoction made with ground dogs, microwave pizzas, and other fast- beef and sometimes featuring olives and food staples. Another chain worth men- raisins in the mix. tioning is Pizza Nova, which has several If you’re looking for a light bite, try a outlets in Havana and in various provin- bocadito, literally a “little bite,” which is cial cities. This chain specializes in thin- what they call a simple sandwich, usually crust pizza and good pastas. made of ham and/or cheese.
Fun Fact La Bomba If you want to order papaya, remember to call it fruta bomba. In Cuba, the word “papaya” is almost always used as pejorative slang referring to a woman’s most private part. 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 54
54 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO CUBA Aside from the excellent Coppelia ice espresso for a straight shot, or café con leche creams, you’ll generally find rather slim if you’d like it mixed with warm milk. Ask pickings for dessert. Flan is popular, but for café americano if you want a milder seldom outstanding. I feel similarly about brew. natilla, a simple sweet pudding that usu- Cuba produces a small handful of ally comes in either chocolate or coconut pretty good lager beers. Cristal, Buca- flavors. Many dessert menus will feature nero, and Mayabe are the most popular. some sort of sweet marmalade, usually If you want something slightly darker and guayaba, papaya, or coconut, accompa- stronger, try a Bucanero dark. Cuba has nied by cheese. Unfortunately, the cheeses recently begun to produce a few wines, used are generally bland and nondescript. under the Sorao label. If you’re a wine drinker, you’ll want to avoid these and WETTING YOUR WHISTLE hope there are some Chilean, Italian, or Most Cubans simply drink water or any Spanish bottles on the wine list. number of popular soft drinks, including Cuba does produce excellent rums. Sprite and Coca-Cola, whose locally pro- Most visitors soon have their fill of moji- duced equivalents are called Cachito and tos (light rum with lime juice, fresh mint, Tu Cola, respectively. While many hotels sugar, and club soda) and daiquiris (light and restaurants serve freshly squeezed rum, sugar, lemon juice, and shaved ice). orange juice for breakfast, you’ll have a Another popular cocktail is the cuba libre harder time finding other fresh fruit (“Free Cuba”), which is simply a rum and juices than you’d expect in the Caribbean Coke with a squeeze of lime. If you want tropics. One of the more interesting non- something beyond the endless mojitos alcoholic drinks you’re likely to run across and daiquiris, you might enjoy a well- is guarapo, the sweet juice of freshly aged añejo rum, either neat or on the pressed sugar cane. rocks. Try a Havana Club or Santiago Cubans also drink plenty of coffee, and brand 7-year añejo reserva, and you may they like to brew it strong. Order café even give up single malt scotch!
17 Recommended Books, Film & Music There’s a wealth of books on Cuba’s his- of the artistic world of Cuba in the ’70s tory and politics. For a good historical and a self-reflective memoir of the overview, try Jaime Suchlicki’s latest edi- author’s political awakening. tion of Cuba: From Columbus to Castro No reading list for Cuba would be and Beyond (Brasseys, Inc., 2002), or complete without a biography or two of Richard Gott’s Cuba: A New History Fidel Castro and Che Guevara. The best (Yale University Press, 2004). At over are Lyeceseter Coltman’s The Real Fidel 1,800 pages, Hugh Thomas’s Cuba, Or Castro (Yale University Press, 2005), Tad The Pursuit of Freedom (Da Capo Press, Szulc’s Fidel: A Critical Portrait (Avon 1998) is far more comprehensive, but a Books, 2000), and Jon Lee Anderson’s duller read. Che Guevara: A Revolutionary Life A unique account of post-revolution- (Grove, 1997). Also worth a read are ary Cuba comes from a well-known Latin Guerilla Prince: The Untold Story of Fidel American journalist, Alma Guillermopri- Castro by Georgie Anne Geyer (Little, eto, who writes of the 6 months she spent Brown & Company, 2002), and The Life in Cuba in the early ’70s teaching dance. and Death of Che Guevara by Jorge Cas- Dancing with Cuba: A Memoir of the tañeda (Vintage Books, 1998). There are Revolution (Pantheon, 2004) is a portrait also several volumes of writings worth 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 55
RECOMMENDED BOOKS, FILM & MUSIC 55 looking into by both Fidel and Che. There’s a huge selection of travelogues. Che’s own The Motorcycle Diaries: Notes A good place to start in this genre is The On a Latin American Journey (Ocean Reader’s Companion to Cuba, edited by Press, 2003) provides an interesting Alan Ryan and Christa Malone (Harvest glimpse into the social and psychological Books, 1997), which includes entries by genesis of this great revolutionary figure, Trollope, Anaïs Nin, Langston Hughes, although it deals with the period in Che’s Thomas Merton, Tommy Lasorda, and life prior to meeting Fidel and going to Amiri Baraka, among others; and Trav- Cuba. The book was made into a very eler’s Tales Cuba: True Stories, edited successful film by director Walter Salles. by Tom Miller (Traveler’s Tales Inc., Another compelling perspective on the 2001), which focuses on more modern Revolution is offered by Enrique Oltuski, writers like Cristina García, Pico Iyer, a former Shell Oil engineer and a leader Andrei Codrescu, and the editor himself. in the 26th of July movement, in Vida Special-interest reading highlights Clandestina: My Life in the Cuban include The Pride of Havana: A History of Revolution (Jossey-Bass, 2002). Cuban Baseball by Roberto González Any exploration into Cuban literature Echevarría (Oxford University Press, should include the works of poets José 2001); The Havana Cigar: Cuba’s Finest Martí and Nicolás Guillén, as well as the by Charles Del Todesco (Abbeville Press, novels and prose writings of Alejo Car- Inc., 1997); Cars of Cuba by Cristina pentier and José Lezama Lima. Promi- García (Harry N. Abrams, 1995); and nent works that exist in English include Memories of a Cuban Kitchen by Mary Guillermo Cabrera Infante’s Three Urrutia Randelmann (Wiley Publishing, Trapped Tigers (Marlow & Co., 1997), Inc., 1996). and several of Reinaldo Arenas’s novels To prepare your ears for the variety of and his best-selling autobiography Before Cuban beats you will hear on your trip, Night Falls (Penguin, 1994), made into a there are several books you may want to stunning film by Julian Schnabel. check out on Cuban music. Ned Sublette Also worth reading is Cristina García’s has written an extensive history of the novel, Dreaming in Cuban (Ballantine Mambo, Cuba & Its Music: From the First Books, 1993), which chronicles the lives Drums to the Mambo (Chicago Review of three Cuban women after the Revolu- Press, 2004), that takes an in-depth look tion. If you like García’s book, you might at the roots of the mambo. If jazz is more also enjoy Ana Menéndez’s Loving Che in tune with your interests, check out (Atlantic Monthly Press, 2003), the story Cubano Be, Cubano Bop: One Hundred of one woman’s quest to uncover the mys- Years of Jazz in Cuba (Smithsonian teries and romance of her mother’s past. Books, 2003) by Leonardo Acosta and Of course, it goes without saying that Daniel S. Whitesell. Or, for books that you’ve already read Hemingway’s The cover a wider range of Cuban music, look Old Man and the Sea (Scribner, 1999) into Ed Morales’s The Latin Beat: The and Graham Greene’s Our Man in Rhythms & Roots of Latin Music, from Havana (Penguin, 1991). Bossa Nova to Salsa & Beyond (DaCapo Uruguayan-born mystery writer Daniel Press, 2003) or Cuban Music From A to Z Chavarría has lived in Havana since 1968. (Duke University Press, 2004) by Helio His Adios Muchachos (Akashic Books, Orovio. 2001), whose protagonist is the city’s pret- In addition to the poignant Before tiest prostitute, is a tight and entertaining Night Falls and the excellent The Motor- novel that captures the frenetic feel and cycle Diaries, mentioned above, there are a folly of modern Cuba. host of wonderful films that can be 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 56
56 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO CUBA rented prior to any trip to Cuba. One Marcovich. The movie Buena Vista Social true classic film available on DVD is Soy Club documents the rediscovery and Cuba (I Am Cuba) by the great Russian new-found fame of some of Cuba’s great director Mikhail Kalatozov, who shot this traditional musicians. Communist-era piece of social-realist The accompanying Grammy-award propaganda in Cuba shortly after the winning CD Buena Vista Social Club is as Revolution. The film features a screen- good a place as any to start listening to play by Russian poet Yevgeny Yev- Cuban music. Music is quite possibly tushenko and the Cuban writer and Cuba’s greatest cultural treasure and filmmaker Enrique Piñeda Barnet. export. I recommend just about anything Cuba’s own film industry has produced by Cuba’s two great singer-songwriters Sil- several fine films, including the cele- vio Rodriguez and Pablo Milanes. These brated Fresa y Chocolate (Strawberry and two, along with Noel Nicola, are widely Chocolate), Memorias del Subdesarrollo credited with creating the regional genre (Memories of Underdevelopment), and of Nueva Trova, or New Folk music. Muerte de un Burócrata (Death of a Celina Gonzalez is the reigning queen of Bureaucrat), all by Tomás Gutiérrez Alea. traditional Cuban folk music. For classic One of my favorite Cuban films is the salsa, pick up discs by Celia Cruz, Los Van animated comedy Vampiros de la Habana Van, and NG La Banda. Cuban jazz is (Vampires of Havana). world renowned and you can get a good For a good look into the conflict glimpse into its depth and complexity by between Cubans in Cuba and their rela- listening to Chucho Valdes, Irakere, and tives and friends in the United States, Gonzalo Rubalcaba. For a more in-depth check out Azucar Amarga (Bitter Sugar) discussion of Cuban music, see “Cuban by Leon Ichaso, or Quien Diablos es Juli- Culture” in appendix A. eta (Who The Hell Is Juliette?) by Carlos
FAST FACTS: Cuba
Area Codes Cuba has a somewhat arcane system of area codes. Area codes around the country range from 1- to 4-digits. To make a call within Cuba, you do not need to dial the area code if you are a calling a number within the same area code. However, if dialing another area code, you must first dial “0” then the area code. Business Hours There are no hard and fast rules, but most businesses and banks are open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm. Some businesses and banks close for an hour for lunch. Shops and department stores, especially those that cater to tourists, tend to have slightly more extended hours, and are usually open on Saturday and Sunday. Cameras & Film Never pack film—exposed or unexposed—in checked bags, because the new, more powerful scanners in most airports can fog film. The film you carry with you can be damaged by scanners as well. X-ray damage is cumulative; the faster the film, and the more times you put it through a scan- ner, the more likely the damage. Film under 800 ASA is usually safe for up to five scans. If you’re taking your film through additional scans, U.S. regulations permit you to demand hand inspections. In international airports, you’re at the 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 57
FAST FACTS: CUBA 57
mercy of airport officials. On international flights, store your film in transpar- ent baggies, so you can remove it easily before you go through scanners. Keep in mind that airports are not the only places where your camera may be scanned: Highly trafficked attractions are X-raying visitors’ bags with increasing frequency. Most photo supply stores sell protective pouches designed to block damag- ing X-rays. The pouches fit both film and loaded cameras. They should protect your film in checked baggage, but they also may raise alarms and result in a hand inspection. You’ll have little to worry about if you are traveling with digital cameras. Unlike film, which is sensitive to light, the digital camera and storage cards are not affected by airport X-rays, according to Nikon. Still, if you plan to travel extensively, you may want to play it safe and hand-carry your digital equipment or ask that it be inspected by hand. Carry-on scanners will not damage videotape in video cameras, but the mag- netic fields emitted by the walk-through security gateways and hand-held inspection wands will. Always place your loaded camcorder on the screening conveyor belt or have it hand-inspected. Be sure your batteries are charged as you may be required to turn the device on to ensure that it’s what it appears to be. Car Rentals See “Getting Around,” p. 49. Currency See “Money,” p. 24. Driving Rules See “Getting Around,” p. 49. Drugstores Called farmacias in Spanish, drugstores are relatively common throughout the country, although not necessarily well stocked. Those at hospi- tals and major clinics are often open 24 hours. Many hotels, particularly the larger ones, have either a small pharmacy or basic medical clinic on-site. There’s a 24-hour pharmacy at the international terminal of the José Martí Interna- tional Airport in Havana. Electricity You will find a mix of electrical currents and plug types in use in Cuba. Around 90% of the hotels and casas particulares use 110 volts current with standard U.S.-style two- or three-prong outlets. However, some outlets I found are rated 220 volts, particularly in hotels that cater to European clien- tele. These are usually marked and sometimes accept only two-prong round plugs. For all intents and purposes you should have personal appliances rated for 110-volt current, with U.S.-style prongs, or the appropriate converters. It is also a good idea to carry a three-to-two prong adapter for any appliance you have that has a three-prong plug. Embassies & Consulates All major consulates and embassies, where present, are in Havana. Canada: Calle 30 no. 518, at the corner of Avenida 7, Miramar (& 7/204-2517; fax 7/204-2044). United Kingdom: Calle 34 no. 702, Miramar (& 7/204-1771; fax 7/204-8104). Though neither an embassy nor consulate, the United States Interests Section, Calle Calzada between Calles L and M, Vedado (& 7/833-3551; fax 7/833-1084), is the official U.S. government representation on the island. 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 58
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Emergencies In most cases, you will want to dial & 116 for any emergency. This is technically the number for the police, but it seems to be gaining acceptance as a national number for any type of emergency. Alternately, you can dial & 114 for an ambulance, and & 115 for the fire department. The three-digit emergency numbers are part of an ongoing effort to institute a national pro- gram for emergency response. However, in some areas of the country it is still not fully functional. At none of these numbers can you assume you will find an English-speaking person on the other end. Etiquette & Customs Cubans are a friendly, open, and physically expressive people. They strike up conversations easily and seldom use the formal terms of address in Spanish. However, be aware that as a foreigner, many Cubans who start a conversation with you are hoping in some way to get some economic gain out of the relationship. Jineterismo, or jockeying, is a way of life in Cuba. This may involve anything from offers to take you to a specific restaurant or hotel (for a commission) to direct appeals for money or goods. See appendix A for more on jineterismo. Dress is generally very informal, in large part due to the tough economic times faced by the broad population. Suits are sometimes used in business and governmental meetings, although a simple light, short-sleeved cotton shirt with tie, or a guayabera, are more common. The guayabera is a loose-fitting shirt with two or four outer pockets on the front and usually a few vertical bands of pleats or embroidery. The guayabera is worn untucked, and is quite acceptable at even the most formal of occasions. Perhaps the greatest etiquette concern is about what you say. Open criticism of the government or Fidel Castro is a major taboo. Don’t do it—especially in open public places. Thought police, community revolutionary brigades, and reprisals for vocal dissent are an ongoing legacy of Cuba’s political reality. One effect of this is that while Cubans you meet will often be very open and expres- sive with you, they tend to immediately clam up the minute another Cuban unknown to them enters the equation. Holidays See “Calendar of Events,” earlier in this chapter. Information See “Visitor Information,” earlier in this chapter. Internet Access Internet access is becoming more and more common and avail- able in Cuba. However, it is still in the early stages and most of your options will be confined to the business centers of higher-end hotels, particularly in Havana, Varadero, and Santiago de Cuba. Rates at hotel business centers range from CUC$5 to CUC$10 per hour. An alternative to hotel business centers are certain Etecsa offices equipped with computers and Internet access. In order to use these, you must purchase a CUC$6 card good for 1 hour of usage. A scratch- off login number and password on the back is good for use on any Etecsa com- puter around the country. Language Spanish is the official language of Cuba. English is spoken at most tourist hotels, restaurants, and attractions. Outside of the tourist orbit, English is not widely spoken, and some rudimentary Spanish will go a long way. Indigenous and African languages have had a profound and lasting influ- ence, and you will find many words—like cigar, barbacoa, and conga—tracing 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 59
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their origin to indigenous and African sources used widely across the island. Various African dialects are still widely used in the songs and ceremonies of Santería and other syncretic religions, although almost no one speaks them conversationally. Laundry Dry cleaners and laundromats—be they full-service or self-serve—are few and far between in Cuba. Hotel laundry services, which can sometimes be expensive, are far more common. Liquor Laws Cuba has no firm or clear liquor laws. Beer, wine, and liquor are served at most restaurants and are available at most gift shops and hard-cur- rency stores. Mail A post office is called a correo in Spanish. You can get stamps at the post office and gift shops or the front desk in most hotels. The Cuban postal system is extremely slow and untrustworthy. You can count on every parcel and piece of mail being opened and inspected. The price is CUC50¢ for a postcard to any- where in the world. For a letter, the cost is CUC80¢. A package of up to 1 kilo- gram (2.2 lb.) will cost CUC$10 to CUC$20 to ship depending upon your destination country. However, it is best to send anything of any value via an established interna- tional courier service. DHL, Calle 26 and Avenida 1, Miramar, Havana (& 7/204- 1578; www.dhl.com), provides broad coverage to most of Cuba. EMS Cubapost, Calle 21 no. 1009, between Calles 10 and 12, Vedado, Havana (& 7/831-3328), is Cuba’s state-run express-mail service, with desks at most post offices. Beware: Despite what you may be told, packages sent overnight to U.S. addresses tend to take 3 to 4 days to reach their destination. Maps Most car-rental agencies and many hotels will give you a copy of basic nationwide and Havana road maps. The Cuban Geographic and Cartographic Institute publishes a couple of much more detailed maps; most tourist gift shops and Infotur kiosks carry these maps. If you’re buying a map before your trip, try to get the International Travel Map: Cuba (ITMB Publishing; www.itmb. com). You’ll also find good maps online at www.cubaroutes.com and www. cubamapa.com. Newspapers & Magazines The nationwide Spanish-language daily, Granma, is a thin paper with sparse coverage of local and international news, and a strong party-line editorial bias. The paper is not nearly as widely available as daily papers in most other countries, although there are some street vendors, and many hotels do get copies each morning. English digest versions of Granma come out every few days and are available at many hotels. A handful of other daily and weekly newspapers are published, and usually even harder to find than Granma. These include Trabajadores, Juventud Rebelede, and a host of regional rags. Probably the most useful newspaper for travelers is the bilingual cultural pub- lication Cartelera, which is available at the front desks of most hotels in Havana. There are also several periodic glossy magazines, some of which are bilingual; of these, Prisma and Business Tips on Cuba are of most interest to foreign visitors. Passports For Residents of the United States: Whether you’re applying in per- son or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. State 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 60
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Department website at http://travel.state.gov. To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Pass- port Information Center toll-free number (& 877/487-2778) for automated information. For Residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agen- cies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (& 800/567- 6868; www.ppt.gc.ca). For Residents of the United Kingdom: To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children under 16), visit your nearest pass- port office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at & 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk. For Residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (& 01/671-1633; http:// foreignaffairs.gov.ie). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a €12 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (& 021/272-525) or at most main post offices. For Residents of Australia: You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at & 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au. For Residents of New Zealand: You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at & 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz. Pets Pets can be brought into Cuba with proper documentation and vaccina- tions. Definitely contact your closest Cuban consulate or embassy before attempting to bring your pet with you. Police Nationwide, you can dial & 116 for police, although you shouldn’t expect to find an English-speaking person on the other end of the line. In gen- eral, the police are quite helpful and not to be feared. Bribery and graft are not an issue. In the event of robbery, the police are your best bet, but for physical emergencies or other threats of serious danger, you are probably best off con- tacting your embassy. Smoking Although Fidel gave up smoking years ago, Cuba remains a major producer of tobacco and tobacco products. Many Cubans smoke. Antismoking campaigns are just beginning in Cuba. A few hotels and restaurants have cre- ated nonsmoking rooms and areas, although given the local environment and the fact that a majority of the tourism here is European, this remains the excep- tion, not the rule. Taxes There are no direct or specific taxes on goods or services in Cuba. How- ever, tourist restaurants have begun adding a 10% service charge on to their bills, so be sure to check before calculating any tip—although it’s doubtful that the 10% goes to your server. There is a CUC$25 departure tax that must be paid in cash upon leaving the country. 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 61
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Telephones The phone numbering system inside Cuba is being modernized, but it remains quite confusing. City and area codes can range from 1 to 4 digits, and individual phone numbers can range from 4 to 7 digits. You do not need to use the city or area code for local calls, but you must dial 0 followed by the city or area code for any long-distance call within Cuba, or to a cellphone. To call Cuba: If you’re calling Cuba from the United States: 1. Dial the international access code: 011 2. Dial the country code: 53 3. Dial the area code and then the number. The whole number you’d dial for a number in Havana (area code 7) would be 011-53-7-000-0000. To make international calls: To make international calls from Cuba, first dial 119 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next you dial the area code and number. For example, if you wanted to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., you would dial 00-1-202-588-7800. For directory assistance: Dial 113 if you’re looking for a number inside Cuba, and dial 180 for numbers to all other countries. For operator assistance: If you need operator assistance in making a call, dial 00 if you’re trying to make an international call and 0 if you want to call a num- ber in Cuba. Toll-free numbers: Numbers beginning with 0800 within Cuba are toll-free, but calling a 1-800 number in the States from Cuba is not toll-free. In fact, it costs the same as an overseas call. Time Zone Havana is 5 hours behind GMT, or on par with Eastern Standard Time in the United States and Canada. Daylight saving time is observed by set- ting clocks ahead 1 hour from the last Sunday in March to the last Sunday in October. Tipping Most Cuban workers earn incredibly low salaries in dollar terms, so tips are an extremely important and coveted source of supplemental income. With the rise in tourism, all sorts of workers now expect and work for tips, including taxi drivers, porters, waiters, guides, and restaurant musicians. Taxi drivers in particular are loath to give any small change on a fare. So if the meter reads CUC$2.05, you are expected to pay CUC$3, although you are certainly within your rights to ask for CUC50¢ or so change. Porters should be tipped between CUC50¢ and CUC$1 per bag. Some restaurants include a 10% service charge, although you should probably tip the waiter an additional 5% to 10% depend- ing upon the quality of service, or even more, as it’s very doubtful they see much of that 10% service charge. Toilets Public restrooms are hard to come by. You must usually count on the generosity of some hotel or restaurant, or duck into a museum or other attrac- tion. Although it’s rare that a tourist would be denied the use of the facilities, you should always ask first. In broad terms, the sanitary conditions of public restrooms in Cuba is much higher than those found throughout the develop- ing world, although at gas stations and less affluent establishments, toilet seats are sometimes missing. 06_945598 ch02.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 62
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Many restrooms have an attendant, who is sometimes responsible for dis- pensing toilet paper. Upon exiting, you are expected to either leave a tip, or pay a specified fee, between CUC5¢ and CUC20¢. Water Water is generally safe to drink throughout the country. However, since many travelers have tender digestive tracts, I recommend playing it safe and sticking to bottled water, sold as agua mineral sin gas. 07_945598 ch03.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 63
3 Suggested Cuba Itineraries
Cuba is a big island—the largest in the activity. Bird-watchers could design an Caribbean—and its attractions and itinerary that visits a series of prime bird- charms run the gamut from the hustle watching sites. Latin dance or art enthu- and bustle of Havana, to the colonial siasts could arrange a specialized trip to grandeur of Trinidad and a host of other focus on these interests. And revolution- small and shockingly well-preserved old ary history buffs could build a trip cities and towns, to the steamy, vibrant around visits to the Moncada barracks streets of Santiago, to the sparkling waters (Cuartel de Moncada) in Santiago, the and white sands of a half-dozen or more Che Guevara Memorial (Monumento top-notch beach destinations. So, you Ernesto Che Guevara) in Santa Clara, will need to plan well to make the most and the Bay of Pigs (Playa Girón). Feel out of any trip here. The following itiner- free to pick and choose—you can com- aries should be used as rough outlines. bine a bit of one, with a smidgen of Other options include specialized itiner- another, or come up with something aries focused on a particular interest or entirely on your own.
1 Cuba in 1 Week This is a tough one. Many visitors are content to spend an entire week soaking up the rays and lying in the sand at an all-inclusive beach resort. I sometimes devote an entire week to Havana. However, the following itinerary seeks to pack a handful of Cuba’s top attractions into a concise, yet doable, week-long visit. You’ll get a taste of the country’s best big city and it’s top colonial-era town, as well as a bit of time on the beach.
Day 1: Arrive & Settle Day 2: Step Back In Time In To Havana Start the morning off in Habana Vieja Arrive and check-in to your hotel. Take (see chapter 4). Visit the Plaza de la Cat- an afternoon walk along the Malecón edral, the Plaza de Armas, Plaza Vieja, and have a sunset cocktail at the Hotel and Plaza de San Francisco. Be sure to Nacional de Cuba (p. 91). For din- tour the Museo de la Ciudad ner, head to either La Guarida (p. 107), the Castillo de la Real (p. 102) or La Cocina de Lilliam Fuerza (p. 106), and any other attrac- (p. 104), two of the city’s best paladares. tions that catch your attention. Have Be sure to make a reservation as soon as lunch at La Bodeguita del Medio you get to your hotel, because these (p. 99). After lunch head toward Parque places book up fast. After dinner, catch Central and visit El Capitolio (p. 111), some jazz at La Zorra y el Cuervo the Museo Nacional de las Bellas (p. 124). Artes (p. 109), and the Museo de la 07_945598 ch03.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 64
Cuba in 1 Week / Cuba in 2 Weeks
START: Cuba in 1 Week START: Cuba in 2 Weeks A r c h i p i é l a g o Gulf of Mexico d e 1-2 1-2 (Ja S a MatanzasMatanzas rdin b a VaraderoVaradero es d n a MarielMariel HavanaHavana el Re C BahíaBahBahía CárdenasCárrdenasdenas y) a m LALA HABANAHABANA a HondaHonda SaguaSagua LaLa GrandeGrande g ü ArtemisaArtemisa SanSan AntonioAntonio GüinesGüinesines e y dede loslos BañosBBaañooss JovellanosJovellanos SANTA ViñalesViViñalesales PINARPINAR MATANZASM ATA N Z A S ColCColónolón CLARA 3 DELDEL RRÍOÍO JagüeyJagJagüeeyy 4 6 Caibarién PinarPinar GrandeGrande Bahí deldel RíoRío PARQUEPARQUE NACIONALNACIONAL SantaSanta ClaraClara Remedios a P Golfo de CIENFUEGOSCIENFUEGOS err Golfo de PENÍNSULAPENPENÍNNSULASULA DEDE ZAPATAZAPATA PlacetasPlacetas os Guanahacabibes LaLa FeFe LaLa ColomaColoma Batabanó CienfuegosCienfuegos 4 Morón A NuevaNueva GeronaGerona r c Bahía de CIEGO DE Cayos de h i p SANCTISANCTI Sancti i é la Cochinos SPÍRITUSSPSPÍRITUSRITUS ÁVILA MaríaMarMaría San Felipe g o d 5-6 Spíritus e los Canarreos (Bay of Pigs) lala GordaGorda IslaIsla dede lala 3-4 TrinidadTrinidad Ciego de Ávila JuventudJuventud 12 -14 Cayo Largo Florida Nuevitas C A M A G Ü E Y Camagüey Golfo de Vertientes Puerto Padre Caribbean Ana María L A S T U N A S Sea Holguín Banes Santa Cruz Las Tunas del Sur H O L G U ÍN Moa START: Cuba in 1 week START: Cuba in 2 weeks Mayarí Golfo de Sagua de Baracoa Havana 1-2 Havana 1-2 Bayamo Tánamo Guacanayabo Maisí Trinidad 3-4 Viñales Valley 3 G UA N T Á N A M O Manzanillo G R A N M A S A N T I AG O Santa Clara 4 Cienfuegos 4 D E C U B A Guantánamo La Cayería del Norte 5 Trinidad 5-6 Niquero Santiago de Cuba Remedios 6 Santa Clara 6 Marea del Portillo Remedios 7 Baracoa 8-9 CAYMAN ISLANDS Santiago de Cuba 10-11 (U.K.) Cayo Largo del Sur 12-14
Revolución (p. 108). Finish up your for where the action is. It might be a salsa afternoon strolling along the outdoor art or son band playing on the steps below the exhibit that is Callejón de Hammel Casa de la Música (p. 194), or it might (p. 110). In the evening go to the Tropi- be in any one of several clubs nearby. cana (p. 123) for dinner and a Day 4: Checking In With Che show. Spend the morning walking around Day 3: Time for Trinidad Trinidad, and shopping at the various Head for Trinidad. Stay either in the new little street markets around town. From Gran Hotel Iberostar Trinidad Trinidad, head north to Santa Clara , (p. 191) or one of the many casas particu- Che Guevara’s city. Your first and most lares right in the colonial center of this clas- important stop here is the massive and sic little city. Spend the afternoon touring impressive Monumento Ernesto Che Trinidad’s colonial era landmarks, includ- Guevara (p. 173), set on the Plaza de ing the Plaza Mayor, the Plazuela El la Revolución Che Guevara. In the early Jigüe, the Iglesia de la Santísima evening, head to Parque Vidal, the Trinidad, and the Museo Romántico downtown heart and soul of Santa Clara. (p. 190). For dinner, make a reservation at Stop in to tour the Teatro La Caridad, Paladar Estela (p. 194). After dinner, and then head to La Casa del Gober- stroll around the Plaza Mayor and listen nador (p. 176) for dinner. After dinner, 07_945598 ch03.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 65
B 0 50 mi A N H 0 50 km A Matanzas Varadero Mariel Havana M Cárdenas C a C Bahía m a m LA HABANA a a A Honda Sagua La Grande g ü g San Antonio Güines e ü Cayo Artemisa y e y de los Baños Jovellanos Guillermo S Viñales PINAR M ATA N Z A S Colón ATLANTIC DEL RÍO Jagüey CaibariénCaibariCaibarién Cayo Coco Pinar Grande 5 Cayo Romano OCEAN Bahí del Río PARQUE NACIONAL Santa Clara RRemediosemedios a P CIENFUEGOS err PENÍNSULA DE ZAPATA Placetas os La Fe La Coloma Cienfuegos 7 6 MorónMorMorón Nueva Gerona SANCTI SanctiSancti CIEGOCIEGO DEDE SPÍRITUS SpíritusSpSpírritusitus ÁVILAÁVVILAILA María Cayo Sabinal la Gorda Isla de la Trinidad CiegoCiego dede ÁvilaÁvilavila Juventud FloridaFlorida NuevitasNuevitas CAMAGÜEYCAMAGC A M A G Ü EYE Y CamagüeyCamagCamagüeyey GolfoGolfo dede VertientesVertientes PuertoPuerto PadrePadre Guardalavaca AnaAna MaríaMaría LASL A S TUNAST U N A S A BanesBanes r HolguínHolguHolguín ch Cayo Saetí ip SantaSanta CruzCruz LasLas TunasTunas ié la deldel SurSur HOLGUÍNHOLGUH O L G U Í N MoaMoa d go e de la lo MayaríMayarMayarí Re s J SaguaSagua dede ina ard GGolfoolfo ddee BaracoaBaracoa ine BayamoBayamo TánamoTánnamoamo s GGuacanayabouacanayabo 8-9 MaisíMaisMaisí GUANTÁNAMOGUANTG UA N T Á NAMON A M O ManzanilloManzanillo GRANMAG R A N M A SANTIAGOS A N T I AG O DED E CUBAC U B A GuantánamoGuantGuantánamonamo NiqueroNiquero M A E S T R A R R A SantiagoSantiago 10 -11 S I E dede CubaCuba MareaMarea deldel PortilloPortillo Guantánamo GUANTÁNAMO Bay U.S. NAVAL BASE
see if there’s anything happening at Club serious relaxation. There’s excellent snor- Mejunje (p. 176). keling and scuba diving, as well as numerous opportunities to indulge in Days 5 & 6: Hit The Beach other watersports. Or you can just chill. From Santa Clara, head to La Cayería del Norte (p. 177), where you will Day 7: Going Home find a handful of large, luxurious resorts Return to Havana in time for your inter- on some of the finest beaches in Cuba. Be national connection. If you have extra sure to stop for a bit in the tiny, colonial- time, head to the Calle Tacón street era town of Remedios (p. 176) on market (p. 121) to do some last- your way. And then settle in for some minute shopping before you go.
2 Cuba in 2 Weeks If you’ve got 2 weeks, you’ll be able to hit all the highlights mentioned above, as well as some others, including Cuba’s second city Santiago, a side-trip to the gorgeous mogotes and tobacco farms of the Viñales valley, and visits to Cienfuegos and Baracoa, two underappreciated Cuban cities. And, you get to do all this at a slightly more 07_945598 ch03.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 66
66 CHAPTER 3 . SUGGESTED CUBA ITINERARIES relaxed pace to boot. This itinerary starts off very similar to the one-week version above, but soon diverges.
Day 1: Arrive & Settle In To at one of the city’s standout paladares, fol- Havana lowed by some hot jazz at La Zorra y el Arrive and settle in to your hotel. Cuervo (p. 124) or the Jazz Café Spend the afternoon walking along the (p. 124). Malecón and have a sunset cock- Day 4: Cienfuegos, la Perla del Sur tail at the Hotel Nacional (p. 91). After sunset, head over for dinner at Los Pick up a rental car and head for Cien- Doce Apóstoles (p. 105) in the Par- fuegos , a bustling port city on the que Histórico Morro y Cabaña southern coast, with a compact, yet very (p. 114). Stick around for the cañonazo attractive colonial-era core. Get to know ceremony. the old center around Parque José Martí, visiting the Catedral de la Day 2: Step Back In Time Purísima Concepción and the Teatro Start the morning off in Habana Tomás Terry (p. 180). In the after- Vieja . Visit the Plaza de la Cate- noon, head out to the Punta Gorda dis- dral, the Plaza de Armas, Plaza Vieja, trict and have a sunset drink at the and Plaza de San Francisco. Be sure to Cienfuegos Yacht Club (p. 182). For tour the Museo de la Ciudad dinner, try the historic old Palacio del (p. 107), the Castillo de la Real Valle (p. 185). Fuerza (p. 106), and any other attrac- Day 5: Time for Trinidad tions that catch your attention. Have lunch at La Bodeguita del Medio From Cienfuegos, it’s a short hop to (p. 99). After lunch head toward Parque Trinidad , with some beautiful Central and visit El Capitolio (p. 111), scenery along the coast. Stay either in the Museo Nacional de las Bellas the new Gran Hotel Iberostar Artes (p. 109), and the Museo de la Trinidad (p. 191) or one of the Revolución (p. 108). Finish up your many casas particulares right in the colo- afternoon strolling along the outdoor art nial center of this classic little city. Spend exhibit that is Callejón de Hammel the afternoon touring Trinidad’s colonial (p. 110). In the evening head to the era landmarks, including the Plaza Tropicana (p. 123) for dinner and Mayor, the Plazuela El Jigüe, the Iglesia a show. de la Santísima Trinidad, and the Museo Romántico (p. 190). For Day 3: The Viñales Valley By Day, dinner, make a reservation at Paladar Jazz At Night Estela (p. 194). After dinner, stroll Sign on for an organized day-tour of the around the area around the Plaza Mayor Viñales valley . You’ll get to take in and listen for where the action is. It might some of Cuba’s best natural scenery, and be a salsa or son band playing on the steps also visit a tobacco farm and cigar-rolling below the Casa de la Música (p. 196), facility. You’ll probably also visit the or it might be in any one of several clubs Guayabitas liquor factory in Pinar del nearby. Río (p. 130), and take a quick tour Day 6: Checking In With Che through La Cueva del Indio (p. 132). This jam packed day-tour should still get Spend the morning walking around you back to Havana in time for a dinner Trinidad, and shopping at the various lit- tle street markets around town. From 07_945598 ch03.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 67
CUBA FOR FAMILIES 67
Trinidad, head north to Santa Clara , and old-world charms of the city, and Che Guevara’s city. You’re first and most another hiking the lush forests around El important stop here is the massive and Yunque (p. 251). Despite its diminu- impressive Monumento Ernesto Che tive size, Baracoa is a bustling little burg Guevara (p. 172), set on the Plaza de with excellent art galleries, bars, and la Revolución Che Guevara. In the early nightlife. evening, head to Parque Vidal, the Days 0 & !: Sweltering Santiago downtown heart and soul of Santa Clara. In Baracoa, you can arrange for a trans- Stop in to tour the Teatro La Caridad, fer or private taxi to Santiago de and then head to La Casa del Gober- Cuba , the island’s second-largest nador (p. 176) for dinner. After dinner, city. If you want to be in the heart of see if there’s anything happening at Club downtown, choose the Hotel Casa Mejunje (p. 176). Granda (p. 268), while if you’re Day 7: Remedios and Back looking for more comfort, amenities, and To Havana facilities, you should book a room in the In the morning, drive to the nearby town Meliá Santiago de Cuba (p. 269). of Remedios (p. 176). This is one You’ll need 2 days to fully explore this of Cuba’s smallest and best-preserved old beautiful colonial-era port city, with its colonial-era towns. Tour the Iglesia de host of historical and architectural attrac- San Juan Bautista (p. 176), with its tions. Be sure to schedule at least 1 night intricately carved and ornate baroque at Santiago’s fabulous Casa de la altar, and stop for a cool drink or light Trova (p. 276). lunch at the open-air Café El Louvre Days @, # & $: Hot Sun, Cool (p. 177) right on the town’s central plaza. Sands, Clear Water Allow yourself a little over 4 hours to drive Finish your trip off with some downtime from Remedios back to Havana, where at an all-inclusive resort on Cayo Largo you’ll turn in your rental car, before taking del Sur (p. 149). You’ll have to fly flight for the rest of your trip. here from Havana, and you’re best off just Days 8 & 9: Head East to Baracoa buying a 3-day/2-night package from any From Havana, take a flight to of the tour desks in Havana or Santiago. Baracoa (p. 248), the oldest, and You should easily be able to arrange a arguably most beautiful city in Cuba. flight from Santiago to Havana that con- You’ll definitely want to stay in the Hotel nects with a flight to Cayo Largo and to El Castillo (p. 252), with its com- ensure that your flight from Cayo Largo manding setting on a hillside over the city. gets you into Havana in time for your Spend 1 day exploring the architecture international connection and flight home.
3 Cuba for Families Most of Cuba’s principal attractions—its art, architecture, history, music, cigars, and so on—are geared toward adults. There are, in fact, few attractions or activities geared for the very young. This is why I recommend families base themselves out of a large all-inclusive resort with a well-developed children’s program. For my money, Varadero is the best bet, although a case can be made for Guardalavaca, as well. Both have a host of excellent all-inclusive resorts. If your children are worldly and inquisitive, feel free to swap out some resort days for the more cultural side trips to cities, destinations, and attractions described in some of the other itineraries in this chapter. 07_945598 ch03.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 68
68 CHAPTER 3 . SUGGESTED CUBA ITINERARIES Day 1: Arrive in Varadero Day 4: Parents’ Day Off Fly directly into Varadero. I recommend Drop the kids off with the children’s the Tryp Península Varadero program for at least 1 full day and treat (p. 163), which has an excellent children’s yourselves to some time alone. If you play program and tons of activity and tour golf, schedule a round at the Varadero options. After settling into your room, Golf Club (p. 156). Or, if you want to check out the children’s program and pamper yourself, take advantage of the any activities or tours scheduled for the excellent spa services right at the Tryp coming days. Feel free to adapt the fol- Peninsula Varadero. Pick up the kids and lowing days’ suggestions accordingly. treat them to dinner off of the resort Spend some time on the beach or at the grounds. I recommend the Mesón del pool. After dinner, attend the hotel’s Quijote (p. 164), which is housed in a nightly cabaret show. building with a medieval-style turret beside it. Day 2: Take In An Attraction Or Two Day 5: Head For The High Seas Varadero is chock-full of attractions Sign up for a day-cruise on one of the geared toward the whole family. You can many sailboats operating out of Varadero. head to the little Parque de Diversiones These cruises head out to nearby cays, (p. 156), which is a bare-bones amuse- and include some snorkeling time, as well ment park, or see the dolphin show at the as lunch either on the boat or on some local Delfinario (p. 156). If your family private little island beach. is adventurous, try the Jungle Tour , Day 6: Parents’ Night Off which is a fast and furious trip through the mangroves aboard sit-on-top motor- This is your last day, so take advantage of ized watercraft. the resort’s in-house facilities and activi- ties, but be sure to reserve a babysitter for Day 3: A Trip To Trinidad the evening and make reservations for All of the hotel tour desks offer day trips dinner and a show at the Tropicana to Trinidad . While some travel via Matanzas (p. 152). bus, you should splurge and take a plane. Day 7: Heading Home Trinidad is an immaculately preserved colonial city, with a very compact central Use any spare time you have before your core that shouldn’t tire or bore your chil- flight out of Varadero to buy last-minute dren. In fact, they should get a kick out of souvenirs and gifts, or just laze on the the rough cobblestone streets, ancient beach or by the pool. architecture, vibrant street markets, and a real glimpse into everyday Cuban life.
4 Colonial Treasures Highlights Tour Cuba’s colonial cities are some of the best preserved and architecturally intact exam- ples to be found anywhere in the hemisphere. From the remarkable restored grandeur of Old Havana to the rugged realism of Trinidad to tiny Baracoa—the oldest colonial city in the Americas—there’s a wealth of history, beauty, and overall awe to be found touring the country’s colonial treasures. 07_945598 ch03.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 69
COLONIAL TREASURES HIGHLIGHTS TOUR 69 Days 1 & 2: Havana alleyway of pastel-colored and tile-roof Follow the itinerary as laid out above in houses. You’ll also want to have lunch or “Cuba In 2 Weeks.” dinner at one of the outdoor patio tables overlooking the old stone Puente Yayabo Day 3: Cienfuegos (Yayabo bridge), which was built in Pick up a rental car and head for Cien- 1825. Be sure to book a room at the fuegos , a bustling port city on the Hostal del Rijo , a very comfortable southern coast, with a compact, yet very hotel in a restored old mansion set right attractive, colonial-era core. Get to know on a quiet little plaza. the old center around Parque José Martí, visiting the Catedral de la Days 6 & 7: Camagüey Purísima Concepción and the Teatro Although far less celebrated—or vis- Tomás Terry (p. 180). In the after- ited—than Trinidad, Camagüey just noon, head out to the Punta Gorda dis- may be Cuba’s richest colonial-era city, trict and have a sunset drink at the outside of Old Havana, in terms of art, Cienfuegos Yacht Club (p. 182). For architecture, and general ambience. The dinner head to the historic old Palacio city’s colonial core retains its highly irreg- del Valle (p. 185). ular layout and an unequaled collection of impressive 16th-, 17th-, and 18th-cen- Day 4: Trinidad tury churches. The city’s Plaza del Car- From Cienfuegos, it’s a short hop to men (p. 220) and Plaza San Juan de Trinidad , with some beautiful Dios (p. 220) are two impeccable scenery along the coast. Stay either in and evocative city squares. Sitting right the new Gran Hotel Iberostar near the center of all the ancient action, Trinidad (p. 191), or one of the the wonderful old Gran Hotel many casas particulares right in the colo- (p. 221) should be your first choice. nial center of this classic little city. Spend the afternoon touring Trinidad’s colonial- Day 8: Bayamo era landmarks, including the Plaza Even though most of this city was delib- Mayor, the Plazuela El Jigüe, the Iglesia erately torched in 1869 as an act of civil de la Santísima Trinidad, and the disobedience, it still makes a wonderful Museo Romántico (p. 190). For stop on a route taking in Cuba’s principal dinner, make a reservation at Paladar colonial cities. You’ll definitely want to Estela (p. 194). After dinner, stroll stay at the Hotel Royalton (p. 242), around the Plaza Mayor and listen for which sits right on the central Parque where the action is. It might be a salsa or Céspedes . You’ll also want to visit son band playing on the steps below the the Casa Natal de Céspedes (p. 241), Casa de la Música (p. 186), or it the birthplace of the “father of the Cuban might be in any one of several clubs nation,” and the only house on the square nearby. that escaped destruction from the fire. Day 5: Sancti Spíritus Days 9 & 0: Santiago de Cuba While its colonial center is modest in size This is a colonial highlights tour, so you’ll and level of restoration, Sancti Spíritus want to stay in the heart of downtown; nonetheless retains a wonderful sense of choose either the Hotel Casa Granda its former glory and receives far less (p. 268), the Hostal Basilio (p. 267), tourist traffic than any other city on this or the private Casa Leonardo y Rosa tour. You’ll definitely want to walk along (p. 269). You’ll need 2 days to fully explore Calle Llano , a narrow cobblestone this beautiful colonial-era port city, with 07_945598 ch03.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 70
Colonial Treasures
Gulf of Mexico START A r c h i p i é l a g o d HavanaHavana (Ja e S MatanzasMatanzas rdin a b 1-2 VaraderoVaradero es a n del a MarielMariel Re C BahBBahíaahía CCárdenasárdenasrdenas y) a m LALA HABANAHABANA a HHondaonda JovellanosJovellanos SaguaSagua LaLa GrandeGrande g ü ArtemisaArtemisa SanSan AntonioAntonio GGüinesüinesines e y ColCColónolón dede loslos BañosBaBañosos MATANZASM ATA N Z A S ViVViñalesiñaalesles PINARPINAR SANTASANTA CCLARALARA DELDEL RRÍOÍO JagJJagüeyagüeyey Caibarién PinarPinar GrandeGrande SantaSanta ClaraClara deldel RRíoío Bahí PARQUEPARQUE NNACIONALACIONAL a P Golfo de CIENFUEGOSCIENFUEGOS err Golfo de PENÍNSULAPENPENÍNNSULASULA DEDE ZAPATAZAPATA PlacetasPlacetas os Guanahacabibes LaLa FeFe LaLa ColomaColoma Batabanó CienfuegosCienfuegos 3 Morón A NuevaNueva GeronaGerona r c h Bahía de SANCTISANCTI Sancti CIEGO DE Cayos de i p i é Cochinos SPÍRITUSSPSPÍRITUSRITUS Spíritus ÁVILA la g o MaríaMarMaría San Felipe de los (Bay of Pigs) lala GordaGorda IslaIsla dede lala Canarreos 4 Ciego de Ávila TrinidadTrinidad JuventudJuventud Cayo Largo Florida Nuevitas C A M A G Ü E Y Camagüey Golfo de Vertientes Puerto Padre Ana María Caribbean L A S T U N A S Holguín Banes Sea Santa Cruz Las Tunas del Sur H O L G U ÍN Moa Mayarí Golfo de Sagua de Colonial Treasures Tour Bayamo Tánamo Baracoa Guacanayabo Maisí Havana 1-2 G UA N T Á N A M O Manzanillo G R A N M A S A N T I AG O Cienfuegos 3 D E C U B A Guantánamo Trinidad 4 Niquero Santiago de Cuba Sancti Spíritus 5 Marea del Portillo Camagüey 6-7 Bayamo 8 CAYMAN ISLANDS Santiago de Cuba 9-10 (U.K.) Baracoa 11
its host of historical and architectural a hillside over the city. Spend your time attractions. Be sure to schedule at least 1 here exploring the architecture and old- night at Santiago’s fabulous Casa de la world charms of the city. Despite its Trova (p. 276). Turn in your rental diminutive size, Baracoa is also a bustling car here in Santiago. little city with excellent art galleries, bars, and nightlife. Day !: Baracoa From Santiago, take a Víazul bus, Day @: Heading Home private taxi, or short commuter flight to From Baracoa, take a flight back to Baracoa (p. 248), the oldest and Havana in time for your international arguably most beautiful city in Cuba. It’s connection. If you have extra time, head fitting to finish off this tour in the oldest to the Calle Tacón street market city on the island. You’ll definitely want (p. 121) to do some last minute shopping to stay in the Hotel El Castillo before you go. (p. 252), with its commanding setting on 07_945598 ch03.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 71
B 0 50 mi A N H 0 50 km A Havana Matanzas Varadero Mariel M Cárdenas C a C Bahía m a m LA HABANA a a A Honda Jovellanos Sagua La Grande g ü g San Antonio Güines e ü Cayo Artemisa y e y de los Baños Colón Guillermo S Viñales PINAR M ATA N Z A S ATLANTIC Jagüey SANTA CLARA CaibariCCaibariénaibarién Cayo Coco Pinar DEL RÍO Grande Santa Clara Cayo Romano OCEAN del Río Bahí PARQUE NACIONAL a P CIENFUEGOS err PENÍNSULA DE ZAPATA Placetas os La Fe La Coloma Cienfuegos MorónMorMorón Nueva Gerona SANCTI SanctiSancti CIEGOCIEGO DDEE SPÍRITUS 5 SpSSpírituspírritusitus ÁVILAÁVILAVILA María Cayo Sabinal la Gorda Isla de la CiegoCiego dede ÁÁvilavilavila Trinidad Juventud FloridaFlorida NuevitasNuevitas CAMAGCCAMAGÜEYA M A G Ü EYE Y CamagüeyCamagCamagüeyey 6-7 GGolfoolfo ddee VertientesVertientes PuertoPuerto PadrePadre Guardalavaca AnaAna MaríaMaría LASL A S TTUNASU N A S A BBanesanes r HolguHHolguínolguín ch Cayo Saetí ip SantaSanta CruzCruz LasLas TunasTunas ié la deldel SSurur HOLGUHHOLGUÍNO L G U Í N MoaMoa d go e de la lo MayarMMayaríayarí Re s J SaguaSagua ddee ina ard GolfoGolfo dede ine BayamoBayamo TTánamoánnamoamo BaracoaBaracoa s GuacanayaboGuacanayabo 8 11 MaisMMaisíaisí GUANTGGUANTÁNAMOUA N T Á NAMON A M O ManzanilloManzanillo GRANMAG R A N M A SSANTIAGOA N T I AG O DED E CCUBAU B A GuantGGuantánamouantánamonamo NiqueroNiquero M A E S T R A R R A SantiagoSantiago 9,10 S I E dede CubaCuba MareaMarea deldel PortilloPortillo Guantánamo GUANTÁNAMO Bay U.S. NAVAL BASE
5 Havana in 3 Days Havana is an amazing—at times, overwhelming—city, overflowing with history, art, architecture, culture, nightlife, and more. Three days will allow you to visit its most important attractions, and maybe even to discover some of its lesser known charms.
Day 1: Start In The Old City Museo Nacional de las Bellas Artes Start your day in Habana Vieja. Visit (p. 109), and the Museo de la Revolu- the Plaza de la Catedral, the Plaza de ción (p. 108). Make a reservation in Armas, Plaza Vieja, and Plaza de San advance and take the 2pm tour of the Francisco. Be sure to tour the Museo de Partagas cigar factory (p. 111). la Ciudad (p. 107), the Castillo de As the day cools down, take a stroll la Real Fuerza (p. 106), and any other on the Malecón (p. 112). If you’ve attractions that catch your attention. Have got the energy, you should be able to lunch at La Bodeguita del Medio make the 20-minute walk to the Hotel (p. 99). Spend the afternoon exploring the Nacional (p. 91) in time for a sunset area around Parque Central, which mojito at their outdoor bar. includes El Capitolio (p. 111), the 07_945598 ch03.qxp 11/17/06 10:55 AM Page 72
72 CHAPTER 3 . SUGGESTED CUBA ITINERARIES Day 3: More Habana Vieja LA GUARIDA On Day 3, give yourself another day in For dinner you’ll want to climb the rickety, Habana Vieja—there’s just no way you dimly-lit steps to La Guarida, the city’s most had a chance to see it all in 1 day. Be sure celebrated paladar. Reservations here are essential. See p. 102. to visit some of the art galleries and to spend some time shopping at the Calle Tacón outdoor market (p. 121). Day 2: Vedado & Miramar Have lunch on one of the ancient plazas Start the morning strolling along the beau- here. I recommend either the restaurant tiful tombs and mausoleums of Cemente- Santo Angel (p. 100) or the Cafetería rio de Colón (p. 112). From here, El Portal (p. 101). In the late afternoon, head over the outdoor art exhibit that is head over to the Parque Histórico Morro the Callejón de Hammel (p. 110). y Cabaña (p. 114) and explore the By now, you should have worked up two forts and the various museums at this enough of a sweat for a refreshing bowl of complex. ice cream at Coppelia (p. 113). From Vedado, take a Coco Taxi to Miramar and the Playa district. Be sure to LOS DOCE APÓSTOLES After touring the complex, grab an outdoor visit the Maqueta de la Habana table near sunset at Los Doce Apóstoles, (p. 114), a rather impressive mock-up and enjoy the view of Havana across the model of the entire city. Since you’re out harbor from this restaurant. Be sure to fin- in this neck of the woods, have a late ish your dinner in time for the cañonazo lunch at La Cocina de Lilliam ceremony. See p. 105. (p. 104), on the one hand because it’s an excellent restaurant, and on the other, because your dinner tonight will be After dinner and the cañonazo, head to pedestrian at best. After lunch, head to Zorra y el Cuervo (p. 124) for a late the José Martí Memorial (p. 113), and night, jazz concert. enjoy the panoramic view from the high- est spot in Havana. See if it matches up well with what you saw and learned at the Maqueta de la Habana.
TROPICANA It’s time to pull out all the stops and head to the Tropicana for dinner and a show. This place is the original and still best cabaret show in Cuba. Stick around after the show for some serious salsa dancing in the attached Salón Arcos de Cristal club. See p. 123. 08_945598 ch04.qxp 11/17/06 10:56 AM Page 73
4 Havana by Eliot Greenspan
It’s hard to convey the wonder, sensual- bulk of the violence and fighting that ity, and odd fallen beauty of Havana. occurred in Cuba’s Wars of Indepen- Hard to imagine a city with such rhythm dence, and later revolutionary war. Fol- and verve. A city at once so tremendously lowing the mysterious sinking of the USS vibrant and at the same time laid-back. Maine in Havana harbor in 1898, a long Until you’ve taken a lazy stroll along the period of direct U.S. control and indirect Malecón, gotten lost in the time warp of U.S. influence followed. This period saw Habana Vieja’s colonial cobblestone the first indications of suburban sprawl streets, ridden in a 1940 Dodge taxi and the growing importance of the west- through crumbling Centro Habana, ern neighborhoods of Vedado and Mira- danced salsa until dawn after catching the mar. This era was also marked by a strong Tropicana floor show, or witnessed Afro- presence of mob activity, with the likes of Cuban religious rituals on the street, any- Al Capone, Meyer Lanksy, and Lucky thing I write will simply not suffice. Luciano setting up shop in Havana. Originally established in 1514 on Havana has been largely frozen in time Cuba’s southern coast, by November in the wake of the 1959 Revolution. 1519, San Cristóbal de la Habana had Decades of economic crisis and shortages been moved to and rechristened in its have left much of Havana in severe decay present-day location on the island’s north and decomposition. The great exception coast, at the mouth of a deep and spa- to this rule is Habana Vieja, which has cious harbor with a narrow and protected been meticulously restored to much of its harbor channel. Before long, Havana had colonial glory. Although this is beginning become the most important port in the to change, with the recent boom in Spanish colonial empire, a natural final tourism and tourism-related growth, gathering place for the resupply and what new construction has occurred over embarkation of the Spanish fleet before the past 40 years has largely borne the returning to the Old Country laden with drab architectural stamp of the former bounty. By 1607, Havana had been Soviet Union and its central state plan- declared the capital of colonial Cuba, and ning. Luckily, most of this has taken place by the early 1700s, it was the third-largest largely outside the boundaries of the tra- city in the Spanish empire, behind Mex- ditional city center. Today, Havana, with ico City and Lima. some 2.5 million inhabitants, is the Subsequent centuries saw Havana largest city in the Caribbean and Cuba’s grow steadily in wealth, size, and promi- undisputed political, business, and cul- nence. Havana was luckily spared the tural center. 08_945598 ch04.qxp 11/17/06 10:56 AM Page 74
74 CHAPTER 4 . HAVANA
1 Orientation ARRIVING BY PLANE Arriving international passengers clear Customs on the ground level of Terminal 3 at the José Martí International Airport (& 7/266-4133; airport code HAV). All of the major car-rental agencies have kiosks or booths just outside of Customs. There’s also an Infotur kiosk (& 7/866-3333; www.infotur.cu), where you can buy a map and pick up some brochures, and they should even be able to help with reservations. There’s an ATM among all the booths and kiosks on the ground floor, and another on the second floor, where departing passengers check in. Etecsa, the national phone company, has booths with card-operated pay phones on this level, as well as on the second floor. You can either buy a card from them, if their booth is manned, or from one of the souvenir vendors on the second floor. Taxis wait in a long line just outside the ground floor exit. Unfortunately, all the different taxi companies are thrust into the lineup and are assigned to clients in order. Thus it’s luck of the draw if you get one of the more expensive cab companies, such as Taxi OK, or one of the more economical ones, such as Panataxi or Havanautos. If you’re really trying to save a few bucks, you can try demanding a Panataxi or Hava- nautos taxi or you could try negotiating a flat rate. A good rate to any hotel in down- town Havana is CUC$10 to CUC$15, although it’s not uncommon for the meter or arranged fee to top out at CUC$20 to CUC$25. Some charter flights and all national flights arrive at either Terminal 1 or 2. Both terminals also have Infotur offices or kiosks, an ATM or two, telephones, and taxis. If you’re driving from the airport, the main artery into Havana is Avenida de Ran- cho Boyeros. This will bring you to the Plaza de la Revolución and the towering José Martí Memorial. In general terms, if you continue straight, or roughly north toward the sea, you will hit the University of Havana and Vedado. Miramar and Playa will be to the left (west) and are best reached via the Malecón, while Centro Habana and Habana Vieja will be to the right (east). BY CAR Entering Havana by car is a confusing mess. Almost none of the major arteries into downtown are marked. This is especially true of the Autopista Nacional coming in from the east, which dumps you unceremoniously into the midst of an urban mess of some of the city’s outer neighborhoods. Similarly, while there is ostensibly a beltway, or Circunvalación, around the downtown area, it and its various exits are virtually entirely unmarked. One good tactic for navigating Havana is to somehow find your way to the Malecón; from there, the entire city is relatively easily accessible. The main thorough- fare through Miramar and Playa is Avenida 5. BY TRAIN The principal train station, or Estación Central, is located in Habana Vieja at Calle Egido and Calle Arsenal (& 7/862-1920 or 7/861-4259). There are always plenty of taxis waiting at the station. BY BUS The main Víazul bus station (& 7/881-1413; www.viazul.com) is located at Avenida 26 and Zoológico in Nuevo Vedado, on the outskirts of downtown. Astro buses 08_945598 ch04.qxp 11/17/06 10:56 AM Page 75
Havana at a Glance