PROGRAMME 3 THE NORMAN CONQUEST OF PEMBROKESHIRE

Introduction.

We’re walking through Pembrokeshire and Britain’s only coastal national park to discover how a group of French-speaking warriors turned this corner of Wales into a place still known as ‘Little England beyond Wales’.

Home to miles of rugged coast line, beautiful beaches and incredible wildlife, it’s a landscape and culture heavily shaped by the Normans. Unlike the knockout victory of Hastings, this conquest was a long, fiercely fought struggle. Over time the Normans turned a Welsh speaking Kingdom into an English speaking shire dominated by castles, churches and the amazing cathedral in the city of St Davids.

.Walking Through History

Day 1 .

From St Davids, we’ll make our way along the coastal cliffs, learning about the Norman’s first meetings with the native Welsh. We’ll start by walking in the footsteps of England’s greatest warrior king – William the Conqueror.

 St Davids to Newgale via Pembrokeshire Coastal Path Distance: 10 miles

Day 2 .

Heading inland, we’re walking the rough frontier the Norman’s fought to create with the rest of Wales. We’ll trace this boundary – or Landsker Line – that formed as Normans and Flemings flooded in, past early defences at Hayscastle and Wolfcastle. Climbing Great Treffgarne Mountain gives the perfect look out over the landscape facing the invaders. Finally we head south-west, to discover how the native Welsh fought back as I reach Wiston.

 Newgale to Wiston via Hayscastle, Wolfcastle and Great Treffgarne Mountain Distance: 20 miles

Day 3 .

The River Cleddau is our guide on Day 3, as we find out how a stunning welsh princess seduced Normans, Welsh and English alike. Yesterday we learnt how the Normans invaded and conquered a huge swathe of this county. Today we will find out what they were doing on that newly won land, how they were transforming it into a place some now call Little England. Today starts with a boat trip, running down with the stream from Slebech.

Back on dry land we’ll be walking the riverbanks before turning south to find the most fascinating Welsh woman of her age at Carew Castle.

 Wiston to Carew via the River Cleddau and Carew Castle Distance: 14 miles

Day 4 .

Finally, we’ll reach the southern shore, and discover the rich and unique culture of Norman Pembrokeshire. They married Welsh princesses and brought in peasants from as far afield as Flanders. Leaving Carew we return to the coast and the seaside valley of Manorbier - home of our 12th century guide, Gerald of Wales.

From there we’ll walk the beaches and cliffs of the southern coast, before a celebratory drink with some Pembrokeshire locals in the Stackpole Inn. On our final day, we’ll discover the lasting culture this new cosmopolitan society created.

 Carew to Stackpole via Manorbier and the Stackpole Inn Distance: 12 miles

Please use OS Explorer Maps OL35 and OL36 (1:25k) or OS Landranger Maps 157 and 158 (1:50k). All distances approx.

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Day 1 – Places of Interest .s

St Davids to Newgale via Pembrokeshire Coastal Path Distance: 10 miles

We begin our walk in St Davids, officially the smallest city in Britain. As we stroll down the High Street we’re walking in the footsteps of William the Conqueror. The world famous cathedral is set beside the River Alun just off The Pebbles at the west end of the High Street.

St David’s Cathedral

A monastery was founded on this site by St David in the 6th Century. William the Conqueror came here in 1081, 15 years after crushing Harold at Hastings. According to The Welsh Chronicle, he came on a pilgrimage, but he brought almost his entire army, suggesting it was also a show of strength. The pilgrimage was perhaps a cover for what was in reality a politically-motivated expedition. Rhys ap Tudor was the new and powerful ruler of South Wales and William may well have been concerned about possible Welsh renewal threatening his own barons. Construction of the present cathedral began later, in the 12th century, and while various periods are represented in the architecture, here you can see distinctly Norman columns and the arches at its core.

Now the real walk starts as we head to one of the most celebrated coastal walks in Britain. Pick up the footpath heading south out of the city towards St Non’s Bay and the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path. While pushing eastwards we can’t but wonder at the beautiful scenery. Walkers, kayakers and sailors all come here to soak in this remarkable landscape. And, for wildlife lovers, it really does have a bit of everything. Look out for rare birds such as choughs, skylarks and the stonechat. Atlantic grey seals give birth on the shore, while dolphins and porpoises are playing in the waves. If you’re very lucky indeed you might catch a glimpse of basking sharks, blue sharks, orcas or turtles.

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A Journey Through Wales

We’re making use of a handy guide, but not one you might expect. The Journey Through Wales and The Description of Wales by Gerald of Wales (quite a mouthful) describes the main sights and history of the region around 800 years ago. Gerald was a local. He was a priest and received a good education, in no small part thanks to being the great grandson of the Welsh King Rhys. He toured the region in the late 1100s and his books read like diaries. He notes that Welsh choirs were popular in his day ‘joining together to produce a single organic harmony and melody’. They may have been musical but this was the middle ages. ‘They’re light and agile. They are fierce rather than strong and totally dedicated to the practice of arms. Not only the leaders but the entire nation are trained in war.’ He even comments on their character, asserting that ‘The Welsh rarely keep their promises, for their minds are as fickle as their bodies are agile.’

Three miles along the cliffs we pass through the valley of Nine Elms. As we approach the golden shimmer of Newgale Sands it’s easy to appreciate what a vital geographical crossroads this was. Ireland’s just across the sea to the west, Devon and Cornwall across the water in a southerly direction, and you can see the rest of South Wales snaking away ahead of you. After 10 miles of dramatic cliffs we’re dropping down to the very sandy expanse that was the subject of one of Gerald remarkable tales.

Newgale Sands: Noah’s Flood?

Gerald says that in his lifetime a huge storm hit this beach and all the sand blew away, exposing a great sunken forest, which he believed had been swallowed up during the time of Noah. ‘Tree-trunks became visible, standing in the sea, with their tops lopped off... The soil was pitch black and the wood of the tree trunks shone like ebony.’

In 2013 there was another great storm here and low and behold the sand was blown away to reveal remnants of an ancient forest. Scientists have dated this wood back 10,000 years. It wasn’t Noah’s flood but rather rising seas following the last Ice Age that submerged this forest.

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Day 2 – Places of Interest .s

Newgale to Wiston via Hayscastle, Wolfscastle and Great Treffgarne Mountain. Distance: 20 miles

Into the county’s less visited interior our route follows the delightful Brandy Brook. Following the brook east we then swing northwards to Gignoc. Here we turn right on the road before quickly taking a footpath off the left hand side heading northeast to Hayscastle. A ‘Motte’ marked on the OS map alludes to the fact that we’re now on a rough line of fortifications, but for a clearer example we’re pushing four miles due east to Wolfscastle’s Motte and Bailey by the Western Cleddau.

Invasion

Twelve years after William the Conqueror’s first visit an invasion finally took place in 1093. It wasn’t a royal campaign but a privatised invasion, led by a band of ambitious barons. Whereas William I had been able to keep these nobles on a tight leash, his son, William Rufus, could contain them no longer and gave them free reign to attack Wales and claim new lands. King Rhys was determined to defend his homeland. Welsh and Normans clashed in a battle near the Brecon Beacons, but, as at Hastings, it was the invaders who triumphed. Rhys was killed, his son exiled and his daughter captured. Most of Pembrokeshire was now seized by the Normans. The next year, however, the native Welsh regrouped and fought back. Unlike at Hastings, this was going to be a long drawn out affair, with decades of guerilla warfare ahead. The Normans, therefore, set about constructing line of fortifications to protect their hard fought lands of Pembrokeshire. Wolfscastle was one such example; a power base for the lord who held it and a way of turning conquered land into a family estate. That pattern was repeated across Pembrokeshire, as Norman lords tried to stake a claim in this Wild West of Wales.

Below Wolfscastle the Western Cleddau descends through a deep wooded gorge tucked in amongst the rolling hills of the surrounding countryside. Follow the path south through the gorge and use the footpath to cross over the railway and A40 over to Great Treffgarne Mountain.

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Fortifying the Frontier

From the top of this craggy rock you can see Wolfscastle just to the north, and, further south Rudbaxton, Haverford West and Camrose are similar fortifications, all guarding the Western Cleddau valley. The history of this conquest was shaped by the landscape.

Motte and baileys were a key piece of Norman military hardware. The manmade hill of the motte was topped with a wooden tower, while the outer bailey was protected with a palisade fence. The Welsh hadn’t built fortifications like this before. This was a new sort of fortress, very small and quickly constructed. They were an obstacle to an army but the Normans didn’t just use them for defence. They could attack through raiding parties into northern Pembrokeshire and get back to safety before nightfall. It would also be a residence and, as they developed, they would increasingly become the centre of an aristocratic inheritance.

Pushing further south down the Treffgarne Gorge we’re following the paths that run alongside the railway line to Scotlon Manor Country path. From here use the well-marked footpaths to the village of Wiston, three miles south-east from here.

Wiston Castle

It was built by a knight over 20 years after the Normans’ first invasion here. ‘Wizo the Flem’ was one of a new breed of professional conquerors, brought in during the reign of the new king, Henry I. Henry had taken a keen interest in Norman Pembrokeshire and believed the border had to be strengthened. Over the years the Welsh besieged and captured this motte three times suggesting Henry had a point. Each time the Normans retook it and rebuilt it. And 900 years later this village is still called Wis-ton, meaning Wizo’s place. Castles like this would guard Norman Pembrokeshire for decades to come creating a border across south-west Wales. © John Winterbottom via Wikimedia Commons

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Day 3 – Places of Interest .s

Wiston to Carew via Slebech and Carew Castle Distance: 14.5 miles

From the village of Wiston we’re heading south to Slebech on the banks of the Cleddau. Gerald of Wales says that the word Cleddau means ‘sword’, and it does appear to carve its way into Pembrokeshire like a blade. Look out for shelducks, egrets and kingfishers that live along its banks. We’ve now got the luxury of a boat trip nine miles down the Deaugleddau Estuary to Lawrenny Quay. However, you can take the Landsker Borderlands Trail on the eastern bank if you’d prefer to walk. A fantastic way to view the bountiful wildlife is by canoe or kayak. Contact the Water Ranger of the Milford Haven Waterway or Harbourmaster for more information.

Little England Beyond Wales

The Normans colonized areas that were always within a few miles of coast or estuary. The rich farmlands on the banks of this river were the spoils of conquest. But the Normans considered farming to be beneath them so they brought in outsiders to work the land for them. English were brought in from the south-west of England, areas such as Gloucestershire and Somerset. They were joined by Flemings, from what is now the Netherlands and north Belgium, but was then known as Flanders. Although it was already an overpopulated region, Henry I gave the Flemish good farming land in south Pembrokeshire, and the native Welsh were driven to the hilly north. After the great storms of 1106 in Flanders there was a further influx.

This significantly changed the landscape, and the legacy is still very visible today. Little villages are clustered together with fields running along straight lines around them. The fact that south Pembrokeshire very quickly became a place where English was the most common language is testament to the sheer numbers of English and Flemish arriving in this period. Eventually the area became known as ‘Little England Beyond Wales’.

We’re stepping off the boat under seven miles downstream and back on foot, tramping another three miles east to Cresswell. At Cresswell we’re swinging south across this soft beautiful landscape, farmed by the new settlers, to Carew. Follow the path across Carew River at the dam and pass an old French Tidal Mill on route to this stunning fortress.

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Carew Castle: Endless Romance

Today, the National Park calls this a place of ‘endless romance’. In the early days of Norman Pembrokeshire, it was home to one of the most romantic characters of the era, Princess Nest. She’s been called the ‘Helen of Wales’ because of her fabulous looks and her many admirers. Many admirers led to many children and descendants. It’s claimed this Welsh princess is the ancestor of Henry VIII, Princess Diana and even President John F. Kennedy.

Nest was the daughter of King Rhys, killed on the battlefield by the Normans in 1093. Nest, at some point in her contentious career, had an affair and illegitimate child with Henry I. Henry had over 28 illegitimate children! Nest was later married off to a Norman called Gerald de Windsor, who was constable of Pembroke Castle. Her cousin, Owain ap Cadwgan, attacked the castle while they were sleeping and abducted Nest. Spending two years together, they went on to have two children. But then her husband, Gerald of Windsor, ran into Owain and killed him in 1116. With further sexual relationships with other powerful men in the area, many of her descendants were key players in Norman Pembrokeshire. One was her grandson, our helpful guide, Gerald of Wales.

© JKMMX via Wikimedia Commons The site incorporates an 11th century Celtic cross, the only restored tidal mill in Wales, a medieval bridge and picnic areas and circular walks that reward visitors with uninterrupted views of the castle.

We’re resting our heads here for the night to make the most of this magnificent setting.

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Day 4 – Places of Interest .s

Carew to Stackpole via: Manorbier and Freshwater East Distance: 12 miles

Leaving Carew we’re returning to the coast and the seaside valley of Manorbier - home of our 12th century guide, Gerald of Wales. Picking up the path south from near the tidal mill, we pass between Milton and Carew Cheriton. When we hit Manorbier Newton we get onto a footpath heading south-east from Newton Court Farm to Manorbier via Jameston. We’re passing straight through the village as we make a bee-line for the water and a little extra coastal walking. When we hit the Pembrokeshire Coast Path we can admire the stunning views as we approach Manorbier Bay from the east.

Manorbier: Heaven on Earth?

Manorbier has long attracted famous writers – Virginia Wolff, Siegfried Sassoon and George Bernard Shaw all loved this spot. But, before them all came Gerald of Wales.

Gerald describes the valley as the most pleasant and productive in the whole of Wales. The sea is brim-filled with fish and there’s a plentiful supply of wheat and wine. He even claims that its air is like heaven’s breath!

Born in Manorbier Castle in 1146, fifty years after the Norman invasion, he could be accused of being biased, but he was extremely well travelled. He would go on to become

© Martin Talbot via Wikimedia Commons a leading churchman, a courtier to King Henry II and the writer of over 20 books.

From the Bay take a short detour up the valley to wonder at the spectacular ruins of Manorbier Castle.

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Manorbier Castle

It was supposedly built by Norman Knight Odo de Barri. His son married Nest’s daughter and from that union sprang our Gerald. He records his home as being ‘excellently well defended by turrets and bulwarks… to the north and north- west, just beneath the walls is an excellent fish pond… On the same side there is a most attractive orchard shut in between the fishbond and a vineyard, with a great crag of rock and hazelnut trees that grow to a great height.’

The castle was ‘alarmed’ during his boyhood, which may well have been in 1153 when Tenby, just up the coast, was

© Chaosdruid via Wikimedia Commons taken by the Welsh.

We’re pushing west to soak in some more magnificent coastal views. The landscape here is softer than up north and the climate warmer. Indeed, they can grow potatoes here from early May. The source of this warmth is the Gulf Stream that runs up from the Caribbean, so why not take a dip in the sandy waters of Freshwater East.

Gerald: Archbishop of St Davids

Gerald was climbing the ranks of the church in the 1180s, just as the Norman cathedral began to rise above St David’s. In many ways, Gerald’s career and that soaring church were the pinnacles of the confident, distinctive culture of Norman Pembrokeshire. One of his leading ambitions was to become Bishop of St. Davids, but also Archbishop, to form an independent province from Canterbury.

However, Gerald never succeeded in this mission. Despite being three quarters Norman, Gerald was rejected. The King would be reluctant to allow something that could lead to claims of political independence down the line. When in Wales, he was known as ‘Gerald the Englishman’ and when at the English court, he was ‘Gerald the Welshman’. Not exclusively Welsh or English, this struggle with identity comes through in his writings but in a way, Gerald was pure Pembrokeshire.

Veering off the coastal path, we’re making out way inland to enjoy a much needed drink at the Stackpole Inn.

Pembrokeshire’s Unique Legacy

While the boundaries are finally blurring a little, south Pembrokeshire retains a distinct dialect. This bizarre dialect really does owe a debt to the conquerors of nine centuries ago. Whether it’s castles, cathedrals or the culture, the Normans created so much of what we now know as ‘Little England beyond Wales’.

In the year 1485, another army marched through Pembrokeshire. This one was led by a highly ambitious young Welshman called Henry Tudor, who is descended from Rhys ap Tudor, who had been vanquished by the Normans four centuries before.

It was from here that Henry started the march that would lead him to the English throne and founding of the Tudor Dynasty.

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