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Study of Materials A South Dakota State University Open PRAIRIE: Open Public Research Access Institutional Repository and Information Exchange Extension Circulars SDSU Extension 11-1922 Study of Materials A. Linfield Follow this and additional works at: http://openprairie.sdstate.edu/extension_circ Part of the Agriculture Commons Recommended Citation Linfield, A., "Study of Materials" (1922). Extension Circulars. Paper 62. http://openprairie.sdstate.edu/extension_circ/62 This Circular is brought to you for free and open access by the SDSU Extension at Open PRAIRIE: Open Public Research Access Institutional Repository and Information Exchange. It has been accepted for inclusion in Extension Circulars by an authorized administrator of Open PRAIRIE: Open Public Research Access Institutional Repository and Information Exchange. For more information, please contact [email protected]. f E__,..tension Circular Ho. 62 Fovenber 19 22 STUJTI OF MAT:IIBIALCS by llzalea Linfield Zxtension s�eciali�t in Clothing :CXTl'.mSIO;d SFJiVICE South Da�0ta State College VJ� F. I"ur�lien, Bircctor Brookings, S. Dak. Coo per a ti ve !::xtension ",7ork in Agriculture and Hor.1e ::cononics, South Da1 cota State College a�1d U. S. Depa:rtI11en t of "'1o.�r icul ture .Co pe1... a t inG • . I Distributed in furtherartcc of Acts of Congress of Hay a and June 30, 1914. I.:_ �'7:TR 1-:' ;JS OF ____ .. ___ _ In sclectL1g m3/:::.e:r ials the 1m1·chascr C'h_uld l�ho1." not onl.y v1hat quali tJ or g:�2,d2 of i",;.o_·'-�rts.l "i�2y O(; de:-�.D.. r�0.2._,;_ fc:- 2, cert�__ -_n price but be a1Jlc to de t. e�::ni·-_e a.- \7Cl 1 vihcthe :;· that q_ual i ty h;,,,s 11e :::r1 actually secured ir �J�>_:i_cm t . .,f U1e :-rj_c�. In oTdcr to sel0ct 1it::-i.. ·r,cri::iJs \�iscly lJoth k11nwlsd.r:se and ezperience are re _;_ uir.=;d_, ""'::'.""-n.1 :;-cn�u-1_. be .::,:)J.c, tu uis·G:in[·.J.i:-·h the; dif:- rn1..1:-'� 1 2.!l·='- ..we0 ·vPS, crent fibeTs; you krv=:,t -th:� S'i..0'�-d:·_��·'Q 1,;;,.tcrL1J_c., a:1.d their suitability fo:c d�.f f2r 1:;�t 1J;.�:r-rJscs; y ..u. ff1J:� I., "be a.:-:::1e to judbe the durabilj_ty 2.nd :�uo.J.ity 0i'_:;:·_1.t):-..··cs j_n r:::io.t.1�ri tc )Tic·e; .nd you ::1ust l':'10W hon to ,Jotec"i::. st;_l:;:3t,J_tut2s and r}., c_:;_ultcrutions. A, :Y�� .-. f.=1.Jnili0vrit y vr�th st2.n- tnatcri,-;,ls 1is 2, se!'lti ..1 ·to in­ telligent buying. St:--,r1dJ,rds ar:; fa.t::ics vJhic· -1 � c.vr: b:;r�n Lo .. '" n :[or 2x1d J: D2"0�... ye-..,�·-:) their quali ::-iE:s :12,ve been tested_ c�r,.d �c<1. Other 1u2.li ties and ma�e.rip_::;_s c2.n be judged frvu the3c stc.�dz1rc:3. .., ,.. T :-<, . S- !';).L \lTT\·,,..._ .;�J:£\.i \JD. c--- OTT !_,.J.,J,.... _T .1.�' !.T �'-;-)..1�.�·.... :!. �--�_ T..u·::} Bat is te .;. �\ she e r l t, s t T o u. s c 1 o th in -7hite 2.nd dainty colors. Used for waists, thin dr2sses,·collars nnd uffs. Calico - Fl�in weave with desicn pr�nted o� one side. Used for inexpensive d�esres, �pron�. bec�use of its lo� co�t, durabilit:r :ind �"< s e with vl:ic:1 i. t is J.2.u-:1J.r�red. C:.,mbric - .i. lc:i,in vrc;}.. ve -..·vith smooth fini.s11 on one side. for linings .::me. u.:1d0rv/ea:;.� -:hei1 ri10de!_"Q.!,te v-Jcight is de�ired. Canton Fla11t�_e1 - Soft 11iJ.JJ on one side. Used for children's unclsi. wear .::.Tel fer c cz.. t ln�verl ii1ings bec�usc·of its durability �nd V!:llT:�th. lse.A. for drc:.--�cs, :::.nd 2.J)TODS , 9orduroy_ - C or d.ec: r i bol?C. with ve1 ve: ty finish on 0�1e side. Used for suits, hGc.,v_y cL't-.S;:;·"3.::i ex1r:l. sk� rt.3. r FlarrBlett� - So:_:' - c.LJtL r.i F1. n-"p on iJOth sides an figu:ces E2·�i1' • _,, 1-H inted on lJ�ain- 0e.ckr_;J..·0t"- �d..s, .::c. o its 'Jc.. n:trth, . low cost nd ease· o.C laurirle:�in�-;, us2d 1 or :nc;htgouns, undervear and c"hil0.ren Is vvrap)ers. Cretonne - }-'lo..L1. -r·e0,\;- e, 'fith a pi'i.ntec_· design, Used fo :t curtains a�d bed coverln�s. .• • -'!: Diilii ty - ?lain veave with vari�tions - Bec�use of daintynsss. use,l!_ fo:c dr ess2..:;i , ··:c,ists anc1. curt.··;.. ii1 s . Gingham - Plain r eave •;J i th· y,rarp and v: oof of variovs col ored threads to for,:· :;_) la.ids ,.L1d ch e c J.cs . · Used for dr ess e s , ap :2on('s and shirts . Launders nell . Galatea - Heci,vy fi rm · re 0,v e, wj_ th c:;_ esign pr inted on one s ide. Used for children 's clo t� e s , outing suit , when a cloth of strength end dur�bility is desired. '"' kwm ... Plain v1 ec:v0: of fine rn-:.1..te�cL,l , usu:,lly uell sized. Used f6r dress�s, waists, coll�rs, cuffs and cu rt�ins . Lonvcloth - · soft , firm f� ric with a close weav e . Used for children 's dr e s s e s , s.prons and underv1ec.1.r . f·usl in � Plain v1e2.1e m�\de in s cvcr�.l -i.u2.li tics, ble2.ched 2.1 cl 1.1nble :·.c'h2 cl , used fv sh� 2ts, di�,...sses zt nd underv1 eztr v.rhen dur a ­ bility is chief desire . llains ook - Pl2.in we::..-.v e, closely uoYen . used for 1.mderv1eC'-.r . Perc0,le - A finn, closely v10ven cl o th . · Used for dresses, shirtS', cm d ap:cons beco.uso cf lou cost , dux'::.bi li ty , �.rnd e.-�se of 12.undering . and Pigue - Ribbed m�terial - Used for dresses > shirts chi ldr en ' s c o�ts. · Poplin - Pl�in weav e , po� lin v �riety . Used in dresses,· summer suits because of its dur�bility and ease of laund ering . s�teeti - Shiny finish on on� side - Used for linings , under­ e�rments bec�use of its dur�bility. · Voile - Loosely ·v"!cve n , thin rn2.ter i ;_ :.l used for dr es se s and waists . Bedford Cord - Beaford cord we�ve , � soft naterinl . Used f or babi e s ' c o ;::�t s , s 1· i rt s 2..r.. d dr e s s e s . Br oadcloth - Cl osely wov en fabric V'./ ith a smooth s:l ossy sur­ fnce: The fibers �re pricked to m�ke a n�p , whi ch is then pr�ssed down ; leC'sving a beCLutiful finish - Used for suits 2.nd dre sses . - 3o ft . loos ly v;ov en plL.1bl e ma terial ussd for C2.shmere . dresses and baby coa ts Challie - Plain we�v� , liGht v:eic;ht . loo sely woven . pattern printed , used for baby dresses, �. i sts , kimonos . • Cheviot - A twilled we�ve wi th both rough and smooth finiQh - Used for suits and coats . Flannel - Plain weave - Used for childr en 's clothes, petticoatsand dresses becau s e it is Soft , vVcsrm 1 ineX1) 81'1Sive c:md not irr i tn, ting to the skin . Ga bar� - Closely woven , diago nal thr ead , v.rell matched . / Serge - a. French - Clo sely vroven , softer and finer than either of storm s�rges - De s ign 1:rr ought out by weave .. b. Storm - coarser than French - Used for suits �nd dre sses . Twe ed � Rough , unfinished, coarse mat erial , because of its durability und warmth used for su itings . China· Silk - Plain weave I thin ma terL:tl no t very durable - Used for wai sts , and sc�rfs . Canton Cre12.Q_ - Fancy weave - excellent for dresses be­ cause of its durab�lity and does not crush readily. ·crepe De Chine - Frincy weave givin� a crinkly effect, soft shi"ny silk :--used for dresses , blouses, drape s, because of itc durability and softness. Satig_ � Satin wen,ve; smooth shiny surface; softer materiaJ than satin - Used fo r dresses , coat and sui t linings, Ivio ire - Silk with a wa tered effect� This wa tered effect is made after the cloth is v,oven � Used for trimmings and hat covering s . Panne_ VeJ.v.e t - Silk velvet with nap pressed down , Used for dresses , sui ts 1n d hats. Pongee - Plnin weave - soft, pliable mat erial . A dur­ nble and in- expensive silk used for children 's clo thes �s well ,_ts gro vm-ups , T�ffetn - Shiny silk usually wi th a good deal �izing - Used for dresses , skirts and hats. STANDARD LINEN r.IATERIALS Bu tcher 's Linen - He2.vy, cocirse weave - Use d . for butcher 's <prons and for dress skirts . Crash - P12.in weave, coarse and loosely woven - Because of dur�bolity used for draperies, �prons nnd cur tcl- ns. t>reea Jiinsn - Plain weave - Used for drcS $CS and suits, laundrieE ,·,o·ll but crushes very easily. D§zna�k -�Pattern is in warp lines , that is , thTead$ of design run lengthwise. Best linen is sized •ery little . us ed for table­ cloths and napkins because of its beauty and power to shed soil . Huckaba.ck - Uneven wea�e - U sed f or t oweling bec ause ca f its rough surface which easily abs orbs moisture and causes sk'in to glow.
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  • Fabric Construction
    Fabric Construction Textile materials are produced by different construction methods. There are many advantages and disadvantages to each method which affect their end use. Weaving and knitting are the most common fabric construction methods. Other methods include non-woven fabrics such as felting, laminating and bonding. Woven Fabric Fabrics are woven on a loom by interlacing two yarns at right angles to each other. The horizontal yarns are called weft yarns. Warp yarns run The weft yarns are wrapped around the vertical the length warp yarns to create of the fabric, known an edge to the fabric, as the grain. known as the Selvedge. • Bias-the diagonal or cross grain of a woven fabric. • Selvedge- is the edge of a woven fabric that doesn’t fray. • Grain- runs the length of the fabric. ADVANTAGES DISADVANTAGE • Woven fabrics are at their strongest • Woven fabrics easily fray when cut. along the grain. • Lack elasticity. • The closer the weave the stronger and firmer the fabric. There are various woven fabrics; however below are the varieties you are likely to encounter: Plain weave Cotton, calico, muslin, lawn, shantung and rip-stop Nylon are common examples of plain weave fabrics. Characteristics: it looks the same from the front and back, has an even surface making it an ideal choice to print on. Twill weave Denim is the most popular twill weave fabric other examples include, drill, serge and gabardine. Characteristics: the front and back of the fabric is different. It is a strong and durable fabric ideal for home furnishings and work wear. Satin weave Satin, Sateen, duchesse and damask are all examples of satin weave fabrics.
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